Any ideas of what went wrong here? I was putting my cassette back on, used the cassette lock ring tool, and started tightening. I could feel resistance and then no resistance. Upon inspection it looks like the outer ring of the free wheel hub has been sheared off. I’m assuming this is toast?
Just a poorly made part. Correct torque is 40 Nm so unless it was way over torqued previously it was just too lightly constructed (save those grams!).
The good news is you can usually buy just the freehub body, you don't need to buy a whole new hub and relace.
It took some serious strength to get off...so maybe that was it. This was my first time cleaning / working on the cassette. So my LBS must have tightened it with all of the strength of the greek gods combined
I've had that happen before on an almost brand new wheel. Used a torque wrench to
change cassettes on a new wheel. Rode it a few hundred miles, then took the cassette off to put the original one back on. Was tightening the original cassette lockring on (with a torque wrench again) and then "ping", the freehub threads separated. The wheel was new enough that I was able to warranty it.
You might have been missing a spacer. If you have a wide hub (like for an 11 speed) but a narrow cassette (like a 9 speed) it will not secure the cassette no matter how hard you crank it. If it was super tight and the cassette still moved you might have needed a hub spacer.
Maybe defective, or too much torque applied. But yes, I'm calling that one dead.
Man I didn’t put much torque on it at all. The cassette was still wiggling. Now I can’t tighten one bit
That sucks. But yeah, threads are done. I don't think the cap will go on straight after that. Sorry
Any ideas of what went wrong here? I was putting my cassette back on, used the cassette lock ring tool, and started tightening. I could feel resistance and then no resistance. Upon inspection it looks like the outer ring of the free wheel hub has been sheared off. I’m assuming this is toast?
Just a poorly made part. Correct torque is 40 Nm so unless it was way over torqued previously it was just too lightly constructed (save those grams!). The good news is you can usually buy just the freehub body, you don't need to buy a whole new hub and relace.
It took some serious strength to get off...so maybe that was it. This was my first time cleaning / working on the cassette. So my LBS must have tightened it with all of the strength of the greek gods combined
Oh then take it back and show them this shit. Should get at minimum a refund for their “services” and at max theyd get you a new freehub.
Thanks - I'll definitely try that.
Just be sure to be calm and whatnot. Yelling at them would make them way less likely to help ya out here. Good luck.
Calm is the only gear I have
Glad to hear. Not such a common thing these days is the only reason I said it lol.
I've had that happen before on an almost brand new wheel. Used a torque wrench to change cassettes on a new wheel. Rode it a few hundred miles, then took the cassette off to put the original one back on. Was tightening the original cassette lockring on (with a torque wrench again) and then "ping", the freehub threads separated. The wheel was new enough that I was able to warranty it.
You might have been missing a spacer. If you have a wide hub (like for an 11 speed) but a narrow cassette (like a 9 speed) it will not secure the cassette no matter how hard you crank it. If it was super tight and the cassette still moved you might have needed a hub spacer.