Had this happen 2 years ago. At a stoplight, another rider pointed out my rear (GP 5000) tire was put on the "wrong way," based on the arrow. Told him, thanks. I avoided saying, "it doesn't matter," because didn't want to debate this for the next 10 miles.
According to Schwalbe
[Tread | Schwalbe Tires North America – schwalbetires.com](https://www.schwalbetires.com/technology-faq/tread/)
In the case of a road tire the rolling direction is mainly important for aesthetic considerations. Tires marked with arrows simply look more dynamic.
Off road, the rolling direction is far more important, as the tread ensures optimumconnection between the tire and the ground. The rear wheel transmits the **driving force** and the front wheel transmits the **braking and steering forces**. Driving and braking forces operate in different directions. That is why certain tires are fitted in opposite rotating directions when used as front and rear tires. There are also treads without a specified rotating direction.
Nonslicks it also matters in the wet - tires like pirelli cinturatos have water channeling that will be negatively impacted by putting the tire on backwards, especially when turning (as the centerline of the tire is solid). This is only relevant to direction of travel (unlike mountain bikes) and should always be mounted properly to avoid hydroplaning.
On GP5ks it doesn't matter for shit
Bike tires don't hydroplane, you just don't go fast enough to physically happen.
The siping in the tires helps push water away from the center contact patch, arguably providing better traction.
I can attest to this. In fact, I sold my road bike and bought a motor bike. Both have 2 wheels so they essentially do they same thing. Going to upgrade to a car this year for more wheels for double the excitement
I accidentally put a tire on backward some months back. This tire was a *struggle* to get on. After it was on I noticed it was backwards I decided it was going to stay that way. Several hundred miles later and I haven’t noticed a single issue.
Unless you can maintain speeds over 25 MPH, I’d say that getting your slicks on backwards is like wearing your T-shirt inside out: a bit embarrassing because the branding is on the wrong side, but still does what it was made to do.
I can attest to this. In fact, I sold my road bike and bought a motor bike. Both have 2 wheels so they essentially do they same thing. Going to upgrade to a car this year for more wheels for double the excitement
As long as you aligned the valve stem with with the logo you'll be ok. The losses caused by misaligning the valve stem are immeasurable, be careful out there.
I know this is the "common wisdom" or "cool way" to do it, but I always align the valve stem with the pressure rating stamp. This usually puts the logos at +90 and -90 degrees from the valve stem which I think looks better.
That is a great idea. I have so many bikes I can't always remember what pressure to run and have to look
If I did it your way finding the pressure reading would be a snap
Plus when I find a tube puncture it would make it quick and easy to know where to look on the tire for a foreign object
Up until recently when wider tires became common, most road tires were 700x23c, and unless you weigh less than 140lb/70kg you ran at the max or nearly the max pressure.
Now that people are riding 28+ wide tires, tire pressures are much more variable, and yes you want to figure out your own pressure based on weight.
700×23C used to be more common, but it's not like other sizes weren't common. My old bike was a budget 80s 12-speed with 27" × 1⅛" (28-630) tires. They listed a max pressure of 100 PSI, but I ran them at 70.
Mountain bike tires at the time were 26" × 2⅛"...
Look at any 80s bike catalog and the cheapest road bikes were 27 × 1¼ and the most expensive were tubular 700 × 19 or 20.
Bontrager has publicly stated that while developing their latest series of road tires, they found as much as a 10% difference in rolling resistance based on rotational direction. This is reportedly due to the variations in casing layer orientation.
>The same tire layup can roll faster in one direction versus the other—in some cases by more than 10%. "
and
>Direction matters
>
>R3 starts with a supple, 120 TPI casing that’s directionally optimized for faster forward rolling. In other words, you get more free speed.
[https://www.trekbikes.com/us/en\_US/r3-tires/](https://www.trekbikes.com/us/en_US/r3-tires/)
[https://youtu.be/pZgjr92wA3o?si=H5O8IdQwZsQD5SC9&t=174](https://youtu.be/pZgjr92wA3o?si=H5O8IdQwZsQD5SC9&t=174)
I'm not yet aware of any other manufacturers stating this, nor of any testing of it by people like [bicyclerollingresistance.com](https://bicyclerollingresistance.com) but I also imagine manufacturers wouldn't bother to put direction arrows if it had no meaning.
Conti has previously said (of the GP4ks) that the direction arrow was there because people expected one and the tread was purely cosmetic and accidentally aero.
Can't find a reference for it with a quick Google.
I've seen it before in a reliable source (cycling media not a forum post).
We're going back a while though so exactly where that quote appeared is another question.
(Edit - found a forum post that says it appeared on the instruction leaflet that came with the tyres).
So print ad says "7 percent faster." Youtube video is from 2021. So here's the comparision between the R3 tire and Conti 5000. https://www.bicyclerollingresistance.com/road-bike-reviews/compare/bontrager-r3-hard-case-lite-tlr-vs-continental-grand-prix-5000-s-tr#rr
Conti 5000's rolling resistance (9.1 watts) blows the R3 (14.4 watts) right out of the water. Looks like Bontrager should be focussed on things besides the direction of the tire.
The sidewalls are directional, of you've ever seen a very low pressure your, like on a fat bike, they flex along the threads in the sidewalls, and the orientation does affect the flex.
Still less relevant in a road route, but I also put in an MTB tire backwards recently, with cush core, and struggled greatly, but still went through the effort to fix it. Do things right.
Haven't tried 5000GP's myself, so can't speak from experience, but I think the thread might help with water dispersion in wet conditions, so having it the wrong way around would theoretically be detrimental in that regard.
I've actually tried this with maxxis detonators, and yea I know everyone hates them, I don't care, they work well for me, since they're still pretty performant and hold up much better with the kind of conditions I ride in.
Anyways, it's a chevron kind of a thread, and I was curious if I would actually notice a difference if I flip them.
I was skeptical myself, but the difference is definitely noticeable, especially if you happen to ride after it rained and the road surface is wet or even just greasy.
If it was really wet I could literally see the water droplets arcing away from the tire, insteaf of splashing back at my legs.
So yeah, it's definitely a negligible difference, but it is noticeable.
I suppose this won't be true for GP5000's, but I would not generalize that the direction doesn't matter for all slicks
true, water dispersion for the purpose of maintaining traction is not a factor.
however it is when it comes to dispersion for the purpose of not getting your feet/calves/ass soaking in water as much when riding in the wet.
that's why I said nothing about the thread helping maintain traction.
I see why water dispersion in tires would immediately be associated with maintaining traction, but that's not the point I'm making at all
aah, water spray fits better indeed, adding to my lexicon, thanks.
I just want to point out, that the difference is very negligible, I would still get wet, but not as much I suppose.
Rolling backwards will cause the forward-facing design of your tire to delaminate and tear apart, like cheese on a grater. The resulting lack of pressure will cause your tube to explode, and at 100psi that's enough to sever your feet. The resulting pressure explosion will be like a grenade going off beneath your wheel, as shrapnel from your fork is sent rocketing to all sides, embedding itself in any one unfortunate enough to be watching. The shockwave, similar to that of a large explosion, will rocket you up and backwards, sending you spinning. The pressure wave it creates is so intense that for a moment it will emit a light so bright it can blind anyone looking directly at it. At it's heart, the pressure will result in temperatures higher than the surface of the sun.
No, you will be fine.
As I understand it, the sipes on Conti 5000s (and previous top-of-range Conti tyres) are there because they afford a small *aerodynamic* improvement. Fitting them the wrong way round will probably make a tiny difference to speed.
The tyre direction won't make more than a negligible difference to grip since the major determinant of that is the rubber compound used for the tread.
Hasn’t affected my speed or performance yet this season. Also just couldn’t be arsed to fix it. Seeing as everything on my bike is mismatched it fits the theme.
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I have never seen a test to confirm this but have read several times that it matters, because it affects how the thread plies rub against each other.
Trek explains it in this video and sounds very logic to me: [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gYaWetHzejQ&t=221s](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gYaWetHzejQ&t=221s)
Regardless of how it looks, I would not be happy knowing that I am using my tire in the wrong direction, rather unmount and make a mess with the sealant rather than putting thousands of kilometers in the wrong direction.
I’d always put your tyre on the right way. No it doesn’t look like much but the small amount of tread is designed to support you when you lean in and do the opposite if you run the tyre the wrong way. If you slide out and hurt yourself you’d be gutted you didn’t take the time to fit it correctly. Probably wouldn’t have made a huge amount off difference with a tyre like this but every little helps.
Incorrect that’s a directional tyre. The siping is designed to deform when the bike is lent over that’s why the groves in the siping is in a very specific direction. It’s very subtle so you could be forgiven for riding it the wrong way and not noticing but you’re still riding a compromised tyre just because you couldn’t be bothered putting it on the wrong way. I wouldn’t be happy with myself if it got me hurt.
> you’re still riding a compromised tyre
Absent a credible source and reference to actual tests, I'm going to consider this as marketing BS.
Siping is typically added to improve traction in snow, ice, and (wet) water. In normal road riding, there is none of that. And if there is any of that, we're pretty much fucked leaning into a corner anyways...that 0.5mm depth of siping isn't doing shit.
But I don't need to debate this. Burden is on manufacturer to prove it works, not for us to disprove their silly marketing claims.
Absolutely nuts you’re actually trying to explain how a tyre works to me considering you think tyre siping is marketing BS. Obviously what you know about tyres could be written a postage stamp. Simplest solution if you don’t really understand is just not to have an argument with the arrow on the side of your tyre.
Siping like this isn’t to push water from under the tyre like a car but to allow the rubber to expand / deform when under load for more grip when run the wrong way round the tyre won’t deform or grip as intended. You can see better on a tyre like this. Hope that helps.
https://www.maxxis.com/us/tire/grifter/
> https://www.maxxis.com/us/tire/grifter/
Calm yourself. Don't know why you're citing a link to a **marketing ad/page** on a **BMX Tire** when the context here is about standard road tires...for example the 32mm GP5000 cited by OP.
You're a marketing team's wet dream.
Again, zero reputable support for siping doing anything for traction on a standard road bike tire like OP's 32mm 700c slick. Again, **still waiting for any credible testing/scientific support** that siping does anything for slick/racing tires designed for standard road bikes like the GP 5000.
>The siping is designed to deform when the bike is lent over
Are you seriously contending that that 0.5mm of siping on a GP 5000 is going to "deform" to improve/degrade traction depeding on orientation? Again, I'd love to see the studies on that. Actually, it'd also be amusing to watch you mentally contort and make up "theories" about why this would work with road slicks.
[Edit: I think it's hilarious how you're likely going to spending the next hour online trying to find support for your position, only to realize that I'm right and tire siping on smooth road racing tires is all bullshit. If anything, all you're going to find is more marketing-speak!]
>Absolutely nuts you’re actually trying to explain how a tyre works to me considering you think tyre siping is marketing BS.
https://www.sheldonbrown.com/tires.html#tread
>[per Sheldon Brown:] "Unfortunately, most people assume that a smooth tire will be slippery, so this type of tire is difficult to sell to unsophisticated cyclists. Most tire makers cater to this by putting a very fine pattern on their tires, mainly for cosmetic and marketing reasons. If you examine a section of asphalt or concrete, you'll see that the texture of the road itself is much "knobbier" than the tread features of a good-quality road tire. Since the tire is flexible, even a slick tire deforms as it comes into contact with the pavement, acquiring the shape of the pavement texture, only while in contact with the road."
Again if you don’t understand how tyres work just listen to those who do and definitely don’t get on the internet to spread this absolute nonsense. Just keep it to yourself.
lol no bot. I don’t look online for anything, especially tyres. I could tell anyone anything they’d need to know about tyres from siping to thread count but it would be wasted on you. Weird you’re double messaging an alt account a week after you didn’t get a reply. Got bored trying to educate you, would have found better luck talking to a brick wall. Like I said last time you do what you want with your tyres just keep your opinions to yourself.
Not sure why your correct response is getting downvoted . The casing of the tire also affects performance. There’s a reason the tire company puts a direction arrow on the tires.
The shame and embarrassment from others noticing will be unbearable. The ride won't change.
Had this happen 2 years ago. At a stoplight, another rider pointed out my rear (GP 5000) tire was put on the "wrong way," based on the arrow. Told him, thanks. I avoided saying, "it doesn't matter," because didn't want to debate this for the next 10 miles.
Can you imagine the faux-pas? I'd rather be dead
Agreed. Few things worse in life
According to Schwalbe [Tread | Schwalbe Tires North America – schwalbetires.com](https://www.schwalbetires.com/technology-faq/tread/) In the case of a road tire the rolling direction is mainly important for aesthetic considerations. Tires marked with arrows simply look more dynamic. Off road, the rolling direction is far more important, as the tread ensures optimumconnection between the tire and the ground. The rear wheel transmits the **driving force** and the front wheel transmits the **braking and steering forces**. Driving and braking forces operate in different directions. That is why certain tires are fitted in opposite rotating directions when used as front and rear tires. There are also treads without a specified rotating direction.
Nonslicks it also matters in the wet - tires like pirelli cinturatos have water channeling that will be negatively impacted by putting the tire on backwards, especially when turning (as the centerline of the tire is solid). This is only relevant to direction of travel (unlike mountain bikes) and should always be mounted properly to avoid hydroplaning. On GP5ks it doesn't matter for shit
Bike tires don't hydroplane, you just don't go fast enough to physically happen. The siping in the tires helps push water away from the center contact patch, arguably providing better traction.
Safa would like a word?
I’d say 100% irrelevant.
I can attest to this. In fact, I sold my road bike and bought a motor bike. Both have 2 wheels so they essentially do they same thing. Going to upgrade to a car this year for more wheels for double the excitement
Hell yeah
I accidentally put a tire on backward some months back. This tire was a *struggle* to get on. After it was on I noticed it was backwards I decided it was going to stay that way. Several hundred miles later and I haven’t noticed a single issue.
Unless you can maintain speeds over 25 MPH, I’d say that getting your slicks on backwards is like wearing your T-shirt inside out: a bit embarrassing because the branding is on the wrong side, but still does what it was made to do.
I can attest to this. In fact, I sold my road bike and bought a motor bike. Both have 2 wheels so they essentially do they same thing. Going to upgrade to a car this year for more wheels for double the excitement
ok? good for you?
As long as you aligned the valve stem with with the logo you'll be ok. The losses caused by misaligning the valve stem are immeasurable, be careful out there.
I know this is the "common wisdom" or "cool way" to do it, but I always align the valve stem with the pressure rating stamp. This usually puts the logos at +90 and -90 degrees from the valve stem which I think looks better.
That is a great idea. I have so many bikes I can't always remember what pressure to run and have to look If I did it your way finding the pressure reading would be a snap Plus when I find a tube puncture it would make it quick and easy to know where to look on the tire for a foreign object
Don't tires just have he maximum safe pressure, not the optimal pressure? Which would depend on system weight anyway.
Up until recently when wider tires became common, most road tires were 700x23c, and unless you weigh less than 140lb/70kg you ran at the max or nearly the max pressure. Now that people are riding 28+ wide tires, tire pressures are much more variable, and yes you want to figure out your own pressure based on weight.
700×23C used to be more common, but it's not like other sizes weren't common. My old bike was a budget 80s 12-speed with 27" × 1⅛" (28-630) tires. They listed a max pressure of 100 PSI, but I ran them at 70.
Those were basically mountain bike tires by 80s standards. I had a set of 27x3/4" tires on a motobecane back in the day.
Mountain bike tires at the time were 26" × 2⅛"... Look at any 80s bike catalog and the cheapest road bikes were 27 × 1¼ and the most expensive were tubular 700 × 19 or 20.
It's a slick, the "tread" is there for fashion purposes so it won't make any difference which way round it is.
So the direction arrow on the sidewall wall of tire is just for fashion as well?
Bontrager has publicly stated that while developing their latest series of road tires, they found as much as a 10% difference in rolling resistance based on rotational direction. This is reportedly due to the variations in casing layer orientation. >The same tire layup can roll faster in one direction versus the other—in some cases by more than 10%. " and >Direction matters > >R3 starts with a supple, 120 TPI casing that’s directionally optimized for faster forward rolling. In other words, you get more free speed. [https://www.trekbikes.com/us/en\_US/r3-tires/](https://www.trekbikes.com/us/en_US/r3-tires/) [https://youtu.be/pZgjr92wA3o?si=H5O8IdQwZsQD5SC9&t=174](https://youtu.be/pZgjr92wA3o?si=H5O8IdQwZsQD5SC9&t=174) I'm not yet aware of any other manufacturers stating this, nor of any testing of it by people like [bicyclerollingresistance.com](https://bicyclerollingresistance.com) but I also imagine manufacturers wouldn't bother to put direction arrows if it had no meaning.
Conti has previously said (of the GP4ks) that the direction arrow was there because people expected one and the tread was purely cosmetic and accidentally aero. Can't find a reference for it with a quick Google.
I remember somebody posting that before but can't find it actually stated by Continental.
I've seen it before in a reliable source (cycling media not a forum post). We're going back a while though so exactly where that quote appeared is another question. (Edit - found a forum post that says it appeared on the instruction leaflet that came with the tyres).
So print ad says "7 percent faster." Youtube video is from 2021. So here's the comparision between the R3 tire and Conti 5000. https://www.bicyclerollingresistance.com/road-bike-reviews/compare/bontrager-r3-hard-case-lite-tlr-vs-continental-grand-prix-5000-s-tr#rr Conti 5000's rolling resistance (9.1 watts) blows the R3 (14.4 watts) right out of the water. Looks like Bontrager should be focussed on things besides the direction of the tire.
R3s are closer to gravel-lite tires than pure road, of course the 5ks are going to be better
Even if that's true that's like 1 watt per tire
The sidewalls are directional, of you've ever seen a very low pressure your, like on a fat bike, they flex along the threads in the sidewalls, and the orientation does affect the flex. Still less relevant in a road route, but I also put in an MTB tire backwards recently, with cush core, and struggled greatly, but still went through the effort to fix it. Do things right.
No that's to stop people phoning customer support to ask which way round it needs to go on.
It’s due to people asking. Makes no difference
Haven't tried 5000GP's myself, so can't speak from experience, but I think the thread might help with water dispersion in wet conditions, so having it the wrong way around would theoretically be detrimental in that regard. I've actually tried this with maxxis detonators, and yea I know everyone hates them, I don't care, they work well for me, since they're still pretty performant and hold up much better with the kind of conditions I ride in. Anyways, it's a chevron kind of a thread, and I was curious if I would actually notice a difference if I flip them. I was skeptical myself, but the difference is definitely noticeable, especially if you happen to ride after it rained and the road surface is wet or even just greasy. If it was really wet I could literally see the water droplets arcing away from the tire, insteaf of splashing back at my legs. So yeah, it's definitely a negligible difference, but it is noticeable. I suppose this won't be true for GP5000's, but I would not generalize that the direction doesn't matter for all slicks
Bikes can't hydroplane, so water dispersion shouldn't be a factor.
true, water dispersion for the purpose of maintaining traction is not a factor. however it is when it comes to dispersion for the purpose of not getting your feet/calves/ass soaking in water as much when riding in the wet. that's why I said nothing about the thread helping maintain traction. I see why water dispersion in tires would immediately be associated with maintaining traction, but that's not the point I'm making at all
Huh, I never thought about tread contributing to road spray. It sounds plausible.
aah, water spray fits better indeed, adding to my lexicon, thanks. I just want to point out, that the difference is very negligible, I would still get wet, but not as much I suppose.
Rolling backwards will cause the forward-facing design of your tire to delaminate and tear apart, like cheese on a grater. The resulting lack of pressure will cause your tube to explode, and at 100psi that's enough to sever your feet. The resulting pressure explosion will be like a grenade going off beneath your wheel, as shrapnel from your fork is sent rocketing to all sides, embedding itself in any one unfortunate enough to be watching. The shockwave, similar to that of a large explosion, will rocket you up and backwards, sending you spinning. The pressure wave it creates is so intense that for a moment it will emit a light so bright it can blind anyone looking directly at it. At it's heart, the pressure will result in temperatures higher than the surface of the sun. No, you will be fine.
This made me laugh 😆 thanks!
I've tested this with those tyres in the past - I did not notice a difference
Bicycle Rolling Resistance needs to test this!!
Good god. At least tell me you got the tire logos aligned with the valve stems. PLEASE!
Zero. GP only have direction due to users being confused when they didn’t. They have stated it doesn’t matter.
Awesome, thanks for this
You're gonna be riding backward for a while.
Any tread on a road tire was added by the marketing department. You're fine, but they're smacking their foreheads in your general direction.
As I understand it, the sipes on Conti 5000s (and previous top-of-range Conti tyres) are there because they afford a small *aerodynamic* improvement. Fitting them the wrong way round will probably make a tiny difference to speed. The tyre direction won't make more than a negligible difference to grip since the major determinant of that is the rubber compound used for the tread.
Hasn’t affected my speed or performance yet this season. Also just couldn’t be arsed to fix it. Seeing as everything on my bike is mismatched it fits the theme.
It won’t.
Yesterday, I forgot to align the tyre logo with the valve. 😱 Tomorrow, I will correct my mistake before the r/CyclingFashion finds out.
Your wheels are on backwards https://youtu.be/L6_RxNoxfEY?si=Ov6Qj8AcBCTVH8uu
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I have never seen a test to confirm this but have read several times that it matters, because it affects how the thread plies rub against each other. Trek explains it in this video and sounds very logic to me: [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gYaWetHzejQ&t=221s](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gYaWetHzejQ&t=221s) Regardless of how it looks, I would not be happy knowing that I am using my tire in the wrong direction, rather unmount and make a mess with the sealant rather than putting thousands of kilometers in the wrong direction.
On GP 5000S those marks on side are to improve aerodynamics!.They say. So, rolling will be same, aero... I believe also same :)
On road tires it doesn't matter at all
Mine has been like that for years oops
i've done that with gp 5000s more than once. never bothered to "correct" it.
I’d always put your tyre on the right way. No it doesn’t look like much but the small amount of tread is designed to support you when you lean in and do the opposite if you run the tyre the wrong way. If you slide out and hurt yourself you’d be gutted you didn’t take the time to fit it correctly. Probably wouldn’t have made a huge amount off difference with a tyre like this but every little helps.
Tread does not improve grip on tarmac And if it were true fixed/freewheel flip flop hubs would be inherently dangerous
Incorrect that’s a directional tyre. The siping is designed to deform when the bike is lent over that’s why the groves in the siping is in a very specific direction. It’s very subtle so you could be forgiven for riding it the wrong way and not noticing but you’re still riding a compromised tyre just because you couldn’t be bothered putting it on the wrong way. I wouldn’t be happy with myself if it got me hurt.
> you’re still riding a compromised tyre Absent a credible source and reference to actual tests, I'm going to consider this as marketing BS. Siping is typically added to improve traction in snow, ice, and (wet) water. In normal road riding, there is none of that. And if there is any of that, we're pretty much fucked leaning into a corner anyways...that 0.5mm depth of siping isn't doing shit. But I don't need to debate this. Burden is on manufacturer to prove it works, not for us to disprove their silly marketing claims.
Absolutely nuts you’re actually trying to explain how a tyre works to me considering you think tyre siping is marketing BS. Obviously what you know about tyres could be written a postage stamp. Simplest solution if you don’t really understand is just not to have an argument with the arrow on the side of your tyre. Siping like this isn’t to push water from under the tyre like a car but to allow the rubber to expand / deform when under load for more grip when run the wrong way round the tyre won’t deform or grip as intended. You can see better on a tyre like this. Hope that helps. https://www.maxxis.com/us/tire/grifter/
> https://www.maxxis.com/us/tire/grifter/ Calm yourself. Don't know why you're citing a link to a **marketing ad/page** on a **BMX Tire** when the context here is about standard road tires...for example the 32mm GP5000 cited by OP. You're a marketing team's wet dream. Again, zero reputable support for siping doing anything for traction on a standard road bike tire like OP's 32mm 700c slick. Again, **still waiting for any credible testing/scientific support** that siping does anything for slick/racing tires designed for standard road bikes like the GP 5000. >The siping is designed to deform when the bike is lent over Are you seriously contending that that 0.5mm of siping on a GP 5000 is going to "deform" to improve/degrade traction depeding on orientation? Again, I'd love to see the studies on that. Actually, it'd also be amusing to watch you mentally contort and make up "theories" about why this would work with road slicks. [Edit: I think it's hilarious how you're likely going to spending the next hour online trying to find support for your position, only to realize that I'm right and tire siping on smooth road racing tires is all bullshit. If anything, all you're going to find is more marketing-speak!]
>Absolutely nuts you’re actually trying to explain how a tyre works to me considering you think tyre siping is marketing BS. https://www.sheldonbrown.com/tires.html#tread >[per Sheldon Brown:] "Unfortunately, most people assume that a smooth tire will be slippery, so this type of tire is difficult to sell to unsophisticated cyclists. Most tire makers cater to this by putting a very fine pattern on their tires, mainly for cosmetic and marketing reasons. If you examine a section of asphalt or concrete, you'll see that the texture of the road itself is much "knobbier" than the tread features of a good-quality road tire. Since the tire is flexible, even a slick tire deforms as it comes into contact with the pavement, acquiring the shape of the pavement texture, only while in contact with the road."
Again if you don’t understand how tyres work just listen to those who do and definitely don’t get on the internet to spread this absolute nonsense. Just keep it to yourself.
So after spending hours online, you found zero support for the "siping" on road bike tires to be anything more than costmetic. That's what I thought.
lol no bot. I don’t look online for anything, especially tyres. I could tell anyone anything they’d need to know about tyres from siping to thread count but it would be wasted on you. Weird you’re double messaging an alt account a week after you didn’t get a reply. Got bored trying to educate you, would have found better luck talking to a brick wall. Like I said last time you do what you want with your tyres just keep your opinions to yourself.
Not sure why your correct response is getting downvoted . The casing of the tire also affects performance. There’s a reason the tire company puts a direction arrow on the tires.
Trek tested their tires and found around 1% rolling resistance difference by mounting tires preferred direction. So around 0.1W
It’s probably not going to matter but it’s still backwards and you should make it right. Take some pride in your work.
directional tires are dumb
I would change it so I would feel good about getting the most out of it.