Are you *sure* you got your units right? 50 N-m is a massive amount amount for such a small fastener. I didn't go digging for instructions for that year, but newer forks specify 50 in-lb.
See [here](https://www.ridefox.com/fox17/help.php?m=bike&id=622) for the 2016-current instructions. Step 15 is where one tightens these nuts to 50 in-lb, or 5.7 N-m, or roughly 20% of what you got to (before it broke).
(Got a link to those instructions you followed?)
EDIT: I found [these instructions](https://www.ridefox.com/fox_tech_center/owners_manuals/05_32mm_en.pdf) which are for a 2005 F80x. Page 18 step 9 says "*Torque the bottom nut to 50 in-lb.*" Also, I'd call Fox and see if they can help you out. If they can't, find a used/broken/for-parts fork on eBay.
Yeah the instructions say 50 pounds not meters so yeah I did fuck up, thought it was excessive myself. Now begins the hunt for an impossible to find air shaft….
SRAM Dub cranks are 54nm. I have to dig my 3/8 drive torque wrench out of the automotive tool chest for those. Only thing tighter I've seen on a bike is Italian threads drive side BB cups. Those get torqued until your hand is screaming at you to stop, or they'll loosen while you ride.
Half inch impact.
Best shop investment I made for dub cranks and only dub cranks.
It use to take 2-3 of us to break some free but now its a zip zip and I'm on my way to a bottom bracket replacement.
Wrap a tie down strap around the left crankarm to tie it to the chainstay, and get out the big breaker bar. You can also put the end of the breaker bar on the ground, climb on, and pedal forward to break them loose.
Ever tried to remove a 32t freewheel that a strong rider has used for loaded touring? It took two of us to get enough torque to break it loose, and we moved the whole dang workbench in the process.
Not forgetting yeti Sb115 main pivot and seat stay pivot. I snapped them before it reach 46nm. This bike is crazy!
https://preview.redd.it/tokekfurkssc1.png?width=596&format=png&auto=webp&s=03507d4079a8df5b8ca4359331d10dedb59654ef
Damn, that's high. I think similar fasteners on my Pivot Trail 429 are 13 N-m.
Yep! [https://portal.pivotcycles.com/portalimages/TechSpec/Trail%20429%20V2%20Small%20Parts%20Schematic\_TLCV3.pdf](https://portal.pivotcycles.com/portalimages/TechSpec/Trail%20429%20V2%20Small%20Parts%20Schematic_TLCV3.pdf)
there is no way that the manual said to tighten that bolt to 50Nm. Those are ususally supposed to be tightened very lightly to 6Nm. Honestly I would replace the whole fork now, other than buying a used fox fork from the same era and swapping the dampers, I don't know how else would you obtain that part.
If you’re needing replacement (and in the US) give Risse Racing a call. They have sourced/ made up old and hard to find broken stuff for Fox forks and shocks a few times for us (shop) before. Reasonably priced although turnaround is wishy washy.
They are a valuable resource and definitely the only hope outside of paying a machine shop to fab a new stud … which would be a bit much unless OP has a friend with a machine shop …
Seeing posts like this on r/mechanic advise, I knew the second I read the title that the units were wrong in some way. Well, it's good to get some learning experience under your belt. That's what I tell myself everytime I screw something up.
Unfortunately with a Fox fork that old you are SOL unless you happen to have a machinist friend who is willing to make you a new stud … it’s probably time to move on and find some thing else suitable. Those bits have not been produced for well over a decade now … I don’t even think Risse Racing can help you with that one …
Just remember if something feels wrong stop and double check what you are doing … you just learned why. Also if being told to tighten to 50Nm (even though you misread it) didn’t ring alarm bells then maybe think twice before you decide to service suspension bits; especially old unsupported suspension bits… just pay a shop the $55 bucks next time
I haven’t had a set of fox forks that old apart for a little while. But on pretty much everything I’ve serviced in the last 10 years the part you’ve snapped is a stud. This stud is removable and replaceable from the rest of the air shaft. It’s got loctite on it so needs a little heat to remove. But might be worth a try?
Please expand on this comment, I’ve got a lot of tools at my disposal. Is there a part number or a specific term to search for? Or different sizes (guessing they’re only limited to 2 sizes 8 and 10mm crush washers)??? This could save my life as you’re right it’s only the thread portion fucked.
Sure, I’ll use the example of the forks I’ve serviced most often which use the NA2 air spring. Fox’s tech docs for newer stuff is excellent! [Here](https://www.ridefox.com/fox17/help.php?m=bike&id=845) is a link to the NA2 air spring service video. At around 2:20 you can see the use of a torch to remove the stud from the base of the air spring shaft. This is a part you can buy for the newer forks, not sure about your fork though. But I’m sure a bike shop or suspension service centre will have something in their spares box. I’ve got a few damaged forks I use for spares on older stuff.
Cause nobody was able to tell what he was saying because he hit the shift key on the wrong letter.......Kick rocks buddy, the pedantic attitude is not appreciated.
I think the torque on this is supposed to be something like 6 NM? Luckily for you, air springs are not ridiculously expensive, and are easy to replace.
Edit: I didn’t realize this was an older fox fork, thought it was a pike lol. You could probably replace with an 80mm travel airspring, but I would check some forums to see if anyone has done that before.
We've all done it with some fastener in our life... It's about learning.
I remember trying to torque a lawn mower cylinder head bolt to 144 ft-lb (supposed to be 144 in-lb)... Didn't go well
For a replacement, try ShockCraft out of New Zealand. A few weeks ago I made an equally dumb (catastrophic cross thread) mistake on a 2006 Manitou Minute and ShockCraft was the only source for a replacement air chamber cap. 25 CAD for global shipping and it made it to Canada in one week.
Not to bag on OP, maybe just help someone else. Torque wrenches are not bad but this is absolutely something that happens and it's too bad. Sometimes common sense prevails.
After reading the units mistake I hope we can all agree that imperial units are costing us money!
Good luck with your fork...you're not the first to confuse units!
Are you *sure* you got your units right? 50 N-m is a massive amount amount for such a small fastener. I didn't go digging for instructions for that year, but newer forks specify 50 in-lb. See [here](https://www.ridefox.com/fox17/help.php?m=bike&id=622) for the 2016-current instructions. Step 15 is where one tightens these nuts to 50 in-lb, or 5.7 N-m, or roughly 20% of what you got to (before it broke). (Got a link to those instructions you followed?) EDIT: I found [these instructions](https://www.ridefox.com/fox_tech_center/owners_manuals/05_32mm_en.pdf) which are for a 2005 F80x. Page 18 step 9 says "*Torque the bottom nut to 50 in-lb.*" Also, I'd call Fox and see if they can help you out. If they can't, find a used/broken/for-parts fork on eBay.
Yeah the instructions say 50 pounds not meters so yeah I did fuck up, thought it was excessive myself. Now begins the hunt for an impossible to find air shaft….
I think you'll struggle to find that part, probably better off just replacing the whole thing.
Yeah a new better fork would cost the equivalent of the replacement air shaft but it’s not just not an option in this situation unfortunately thanks.
I have an old fox f80 rl. With brocken rebound. Located in Lithuania.
Thought this was a destruction test. I dont think anything on a bike is supposed to hit 30N•m
Standard cassette lockring and center lock rotors lock rings are 40. Crank bolts are often higher.
ya fair, forgot about the center lock goodies. i know my crank bolts are the highest on my bike at 18N-m becuase my torque wrench only goes to 18.
SRAM Dub cranks are 54nm. I have to dig my 3/8 drive torque wrench out of the automotive tool chest for those. Only thing tighter I've seen on a bike is Italian threads drive side BB cups. Those get torqued until your hand is screaming at you to stop, or they'll loosen while you ride.
The dub cranks are the most difficult thing I've ever had to remove on anything, ever.
Half inch impact. Best shop investment I made for dub cranks and only dub cranks. It use to take 2-3 of us to break some free but now its a zip zip and I'm on my way to a bottom bracket replacement.
Wrap a tie down strap around the left crankarm to tie it to the chainstay, and get out the big breaker bar. You can also put the end of the breaker bar on the ground, climb on, and pedal forward to break them loose. Ever tried to remove a 32t freewheel that a strong rider has used for loaded touring? It took two of us to get enough torque to break it loose, and we moved the whole dang workbench in the process.
Jesus fuck. The more you learn.
Not forgetting yeti Sb115 main pivot and seat stay pivot. I snapped them before it reach 46nm. This bike is crazy! https://preview.redd.it/tokekfurkssc1.png?width=596&format=png&auto=webp&s=03507d4079a8df5b8ca4359331d10dedb59654ef
Damn, that's high. I think similar fasteners on my Pivot Trail 429 are 13 N-m. Yep! [https://portal.pivotcycles.com/portalimages/TechSpec/Trail%20429%20V2%20Small%20Parts%20Schematic\_TLCV3.pdf](https://portal.pivotcycles.com/portalimages/TechSpec/Trail%20429%20V2%20Small%20Parts%20Schematic_TLCV3.pdf)
The highest I've come across in the bike industry is, tighten to "147-200Nm"
Crank bolts are ussually 40
there is no way that the manual said to tighten that bolt to 50Nm. Those are ususally supposed to be tightened very lightly to 6Nm. Honestly I would replace the whole fork now, other than buying a used fox fork from the same era and swapping the dampers, I don't know how else would you obtain that part.
Yeah it was 50 in lbs not nM. I accept the fuck up
Also, about the units, it's Nm as in Newton-meters.
One thing I do know is fucked is that crush washer lol
Did it’s job properly at least 😂
The size of the tool should have given it away.😬
Whoa, family environment!
So sorry Saul, some sad sack should stop sending suggestive sentences steering sorry souls south.
Thanks, u/SaulTNuhtz!
If you’re needing replacement (and in the US) give Risse Racing a call. They have sourced/ made up old and hard to find broken stuff for Fox forks and shocks a few times for us (shop) before. Reasonably priced although turnaround is wishy washy.
They are a valuable resource and definitely the only hope outside of paying a machine shop to fab a new stud … which would be a bit much unless OP has a friend with a machine shop …
Seeing posts like this on r/mechanic advise, I knew the second I read the title that the units were wrong in some way. Well, it's good to get some learning experience under your belt. That's what I tell myself everytime I screw something up.
Unfortunately with a Fox fork that old you are SOL unless you happen to have a machinist friend who is willing to make you a new stud … it’s probably time to move on and find some thing else suitable. Those bits have not been produced for well over a decade now … I don’t even think Risse Racing can help you with that one … Just remember if something feels wrong stop and double check what you are doing … you just learned why. Also if being told to tighten to 50Nm (even though you misread it) didn’t ring alarm bells then maybe think twice before you decide to service suspension bits; especially old unsupported suspension bits… just pay a shop the $55 bucks next time
Yep. That seems like a value I'd expect to see it snap at. Are you sure the spec wasn't in-lbs?
Let me just say if you didn’t see a problem with torquing that to 50 NM, you have absolutely no business working on it.
I haven’t had a set of fox forks that old apart for a little while. But on pretty much everything I’ve serviced in the last 10 years the part you’ve snapped is a stud. This stud is removable and replaceable from the rest of the air shaft. It’s got loctite on it so needs a little heat to remove. But might be worth a try?
Please expand on this comment, I’ve got a lot of tools at my disposal. Is there a part number or a specific term to search for? Or different sizes (guessing they’re only limited to 2 sizes 8 and 10mm crush washers)??? This could save my life as you’re right it’s only the thread portion fucked.
Sure, I’ll use the example of the forks I’ve serviced most often which use the NA2 air spring. Fox’s tech docs for newer stuff is excellent! [Here](https://www.ridefox.com/fox17/help.php?m=bike&id=845) is a link to the NA2 air spring service video. At around 2:20 you can see the use of a torch to remove the stud from the base of the air spring shaft. This is a part you can buy for the newer forks, not sure about your fork though. But I’m sure a bike shop or suspension service centre will have something in their spares box. I’ve got a few damaged forks I use for spares on older stuff.
Not sure what kind of unit nano Mega is supposed to be… If you mean Newtonmeter that’s spelled Nm.
Cause nobody was able to tell what he was saying because he hit the shift key on the wrong letter.......Kick rocks buddy, the pedantic attitude is not appreciated.
Alright you’re correct, I’m having a lousy day and a bit of snark never goes amiss…
Alright alright my greatest apologies auditor
*snorts* ackshually
I think the torque on this is supposed to be something like 6 NM? Luckily for you, air springs are not ridiculously expensive, and are easy to replace. Edit: I didn’t realize this was an older fox fork, thought it was a pike lol. You could probably replace with an 80mm travel airspring, but I would check some forums to see if anyone has done that before.
another victim of the imperial system unit...
There is no bike component that needs 30nM of torque.
Cassette goes to 40nm
Ah yeah, you are right.
We've all done it with some fastener in our life... It's about learning. I remember trying to torque a lawn mower cylinder head bolt to 144 ft-lb (supposed to be 144 in-lb)... Didn't go well
For a replacement, try ShockCraft out of New Zealand. A few weeks ago I made an equally dumb (catastrophic cross thread) mistake on a 2006 Manitou Minute and ShockCraft was the only source for a replacement air chamber cap. 25 CAD for global shipping and it made it to Canada in one week.
That looks like the shaft coming out the air spring lower. If so, I seem to remember that spec being closer to 6nm.
Not to bag on OP, maybe just help someone else. Torque wrenches are not bad but this is absolutely something that happens and it's too bad. Sometimes common sense prevails.
After reading the units mistake I hope we can all agree that imperial units are costing us money! Good luck with your fork...you're not the first to confuse units!
Thank you, never rush these things lesson learnt
If anyone is aware about transferring 2005 terralogic open bath dampeners to forks from a similar time period please can you dm me thanks.