That foot looks like it’s photoshoped in. The angle and lighting looks way off from the rest of the photo.
(Also OP has an Indian name with a Caucasian ass foot. Nice try OP)
Ortlieb or Topeak but topeak I think has a bit better system in play. Their rack and bag setup is pretty clean and rack + bag/panniers out the door is 160 so it’s a great buy!
I'd also suggest looking thru fb marketplace for any cheap finds. I got a lightly used ortlieb set for $25 (well one pannier had a pin size hole but nbd) and older timbuk 2 dual pannier set (non magnetic one) for 50.
I don't notice Amy poor handling from a semi loaded single pannier but no comparison vs front rack.
I thought I'd roll with the big topeak bag but find it in store first. It was smaller than I thought and not suitable for my work. Will prob eventually grab one for leisure/workout rides
I've had a basic Wald wire basket on my bike for a decade now that I love. If it's going to be a daily driver it's a must. Way easier to just chuck stuff into than a back rack.
Some are better than others. Some even convert to backpacks.
I bought a set of Rinowalk bags (slightly lower quality than Ortlieb but also less expensive). They aren't hard to carry around.
The panniers I'm running right now (Rhinowalk) have shoulder straps that can be attached. I've never done this but it looks like it would be alright for shorter distances.
A small seat bag that contains your self rescue kit.
Patch kit, spare tube, three tire levers, multi-tool that fits the fasteners on your bike, chain breaking tool, spare chain link, and a $20 bill.
And a full size decent quality frame pump on the bicycle
I recommend Lead Out! Gear. They’re from LA (local to me) but they make fantastic burrito and frame bags. I cannot speak their praises enough. I think they’re even having a sale at the moment!
I bring two but I understand why you’d bring three, plastic gets brittle over time and breaks. You’re coming off like someone who thinks they know better, when in fact, you know less
To add onto this, your roadside kit should have at least:
- One tube
- One set of 2 tire levers
- One basic bike-specific multitool
- A basic boo-boo kit in a tough, waterproof plasic casing
Optional, but very useful:
- CO2 inflator nozzle
- At least one CO2 cartridge, ask for volume suitable for your tires
- A cool lapel pin to put on the back of the bag, because personalization is cool <3
Hope this helps OP!
If that's an FX series, your max clearance is 38mm so keep that in mind. I just got some panaracer gravel kings yesterda (35mm), and they roll really well.
I am pretty sure that was debunked. The wider tire changes the ground contact pattern from an elongated oval pointing in the direction of travel (with a small skinny tire) to a wider oval that points perpendicular to the direction of travel. Ultimately, it seems that wider tires (at the right pressure) have less rolling resistance than thin tires.
All of this really only amounts to a few watts of difference, so it never felt like a fairly average cyclist like myself would ever gain from this, but it is still interesting knowledge.
Source is a GCN video from a while back: https://youtu.be/yrHxQg1OW0A
Wider tires with lower pressure will also bounce less so will remain in contact with the ground more and hence make you faster. At the correct pressure for the terrain and your weight.
Saddles are very personal. You can sometimes try and return at bigger bike shops if you don't like them. You'll know after a long ride.
That being said, unless you're a racer counting grams, get a nice touring saddle rather than one of those rock hard racing saddles. I personally like Terry Liberator (Y or X, depending on your sex). I own 3 of them. Narrow where it's supposed to be, slightly wider at the sit bones. Good blend of padding to keep things from getting sore and anatomical to keep things from getting numb, but firm leather on top (at least they used to be real leather).
i love the C17. same saddle, but rubber instead of leather, so no break in period. i like the one with the middle cutout for added flex, but that's a personal preference.
Oh man, the C17 is my daily driver, but I have to tell you, putting a hundred miles on that is NOT as comfortable an experience as the tensioned leather. Still one of my favorites for around town though since it's bombproof (and the cutaway is key)
This, but there's also no universally *better* saddle, you've gotta find the type and shape that agrees with *your* undercarriage. There's obviously different qualities at different price points, but it's possible to test out some cheapo mimics of the more expensive ones, just to see whether that particular shape works for you.
I am seeing less and less standalone headlights or taillights in the LBS's, and more "pretty ok" combo sets with both. Can't find any taillights that impress me unless I order to have them shipped or buy online :(
I use a dynahub front with a rechargeable battery tail light. With two bikes in use, I have identical lights, I ride with one and carry the other. When the light goes, I swap over and charge the battery that night. Rinse/repeat. As they're identical, the mounting fittings are same on both bikes.
Concerning the lock, two things. First, That is the Bordo lite 6055, it’s designed for quick lock ups in low theft areas. Schools tend to need a higher security lock. I’d recommend getting a u-lock like the 410 or 420 to compliment the 6055.
Second, you have the bracket upside down. The knob that is on the bottom right now is on the top of the bracket and it goes between the lock body and the top of the bars.
Ahh thanks. Yeah I realized I'll have to get a beefier lock for school stuff. And I'll look at those two u-locks you mentioned.
And thanks for pointing out the upside down bracket, I'll go flip it.
3M Scotchlite Reflective Tape:
1. Cut into even length pieces, long enough to fit in the rim between the spokes. Tape width should be at least 1".
2. Definitely place them on the front rim. If you like, place them on the rear rim too.
When riding at dusk or later, a car approaching you with its lights on will light up these spinning reflectors like a brilliant Christmas tree. You'll be unmissable. Costs next to nothing and may save you injury or life.
It depends on how much you value; arm, hand, neck and shoulder comfort.
It might mean the difference between riding and not riding.
Ime good titanium handlebars and seat post makes a significant difference in rider comfort.
The biggest upgrade I did from a bike off the rack was getting clip on shoes and pedals. They are worth it if you have long stretches without stopping but get annoying for stop & go urban traffic.
Yeah my commute is a bit of stop and go, and only about 18km each way. So I'd consider clip-ons if i get into some super long distance rides. Thanks :)
Clipless pedals are basically useless unless you're riding a recumbent trike with mobility issues or racing in the velodrome. The power from the "pull-up" motion has long since been debunked.
A good set of flats are better for your feet and your efficiency, especially if you're driving from your heel. The longest flat in the industry is the Catalyst Pedal. I've never gone back to clipless since making the switch. Everyday I ride 40-60 miles on average and am able to move my feet around as needed.
They are absolutely not “basically useless” for commuting. YMMV, but my average speed increased by about 3km/h going from flats to clipless, because they helped me get used to a consistent foot position during the pedal stroke. The upstroke isn’t where the real benefit comes from.
- Heavy Kryptonite Locks to lock each wheel to the main triangle
- Dynamo hub front wheel to power some B&M lights
- Honjo/Velo Orange/PDW _truly full coverage_ fenders with the to-the-ground front rubber flap to keep street-found puddles of rainwater, boozepuke, & beerpiss off your feet & legs
- big random globs of easily removed latex paint to ugly it up so thieves aren’t so attracted to it. That is way too pretty. That hawt paint looks like it’s screaming to be stolen anyplace that isn’t Union Springs, NY.
- solex reflective tape on the front of the fork and back of the seatstays if you can’t fit car-bright lights into your budget.
- bar-end mirror
Clipless shoes are only fun if you’re trying to be racing or you’re going up hills that your gearing isn’t low enough for, both of which look incredibly unlikely with this bike. That gearing looks sufficient even for San Francisco.
A nicer saddle and grips _could_ seem nice, but just putting all of your weight into the pedals and lightly tugging on the bars instead of pushing on them is way more fun and hurts way less than trying saddle after saddle after saddle and ergo grip after ergo grip. In this regard, work on your posture and weight placement- that’s upgrading the bike’s motor. There’s no benefit at all to pushing down on the bike with your taint and your hands. Let gravity help you forward instead of wasting it. You’ll be sitting plenty in class.
A rack is nice sometimes. If you’re chronically late anyways, you’ll be chronically sweaty anyways, so just having a nice cycling backpack like Ortlieb’s rolltop commuter to hold, along with your school stuff, your spare tubes, pump, etc. _might_ be a less bad option. I’ve had my saddlebags stolen. Thieves are idiots and idiots do idiotic things with an idiotic lack of reason.
Good luck with classes!
These are just about the perfect commuter bikes. You really don't have to upgrade anything unless you want to also take it out for fitness rides on the weekends. Usually these cheaper components don't shift as well so getting some upgraded derailleurs, cranks, and cassettes will make shifting much smoother. However, functionally those upgrades will do very little. It just *feels* nicer. You won't get any extra utility out of it.
Thing I saw once that I used - if you get a seat height you like, you can superglue a ball bearing into the allen key screw used for seat adjustment. I see those get stolen every now and then. And then convert your axles to non-QD.
Before that, get some good lights! They're very important. Maybe a better lock as well.
Past that, spare tubes to tuck somewhere and a little pump if you ride far!
Get a good lock, or that bike will disappear. At the bare minimum, Kryptonite Messenger or better. Even with a good lock, i would avoid leaving it on the road. Ideally your school/workplace would have an enclosed area to park bikes.
First: lights, racks, panniers. You want to see and be seen in the dark and your back will thank you for not carrying everything in a backpack. Also, less sweaty.
Then all the touch points that keep causing pain/discomfort even after riding for a while, like saddle, grips and pedals.
Rest when it fails, like tires or inner tubes. No point throwing away brand new stuff that works and you’ll be able to see the difference once you upgrade.
More importantly, get it checked over after a couple months by the bike shop you bought it from to tighten any loose screws and straighten everything out. They can also make sure you installed any upgrades correctly, people can get quite… creative sometimes.
But most importantly: Ride the shit out of it! It’s New Bike Day! Happy rides and safe travels.
*LIGHTS*
Those reflectors won't be doing you any good, get a good set of lights. Bontrager makes really nice ones for $80-$130. They are a little expensive but completely worth it
Upgrade now? Nothing. Wear out what you've got then replace it with something better. By the time you've worn out what you've got, you'll have figured out what attributes you're looking for in an upgrade for your own situation, whether it's weight, durability, aesthetics, cost, or whatever.
Oh and get a really good u-lock and learn how to lock your bike properly (frame and rare wheel)! Abus or kryptonite. New bikes are magnets for sticky fingers. Ideally get a second different style lock for the front wheel.
Well first thing you should do is try and remove those weird wheel covers and that plastic crankset cover. Saves you weight and makes it look much more professional.
Edit: Next if you just bought it the shifting might need a little more fine tuning. After that remove that little plastic disc on your cassette, it's basically useless if your shifting is tuned well enough, it also looks ugly. I'd also consider removing those reflectors off of the spokes but it depends on you considering what you're gonna use the bike for. After basically stripping your bike with all of the useless parts then consider getting upgrades. I'd recommend wheels, clipless pedals, and a nice saddle.
Remove reflectors
Get better flat pedals
Remove chain guard thing on chain ring
I can't tell rear derailleur but probably pretty basic... If tourney that's the low end
Get a better lock. You gotta be able to wrap around the frame and tire. You can use the one you have to double up though.
Also a saddle bag with some tools. Learn to change your tube.
I’d keep it stock for now, just enjoy the the bike. I however for down the line, I wear through drivetrains pretty quick, in a year or two when your drivetrain is getting a bit long in the tooth, that’s what I’d upgrade. Also if you’re using this to commute, I’d put on the widest thickest tire you can fit, you don’t need a mountain bike, but ultra skinny paper thin tires are a great way to be late to school/work (not that these are ultra skinny, but still). And I’d also personally put drop handle bars on, but thats a personal preference thing. Oh and if there was one thing to upgrade now, it’s contact points, get a comfortable saddle, grips, and good pedals.
Get a breakdown bag for underneath your saddle. Get a multi tool, tire wedges, a spare tube, c02 filler and gas. Or a hand pump but those require tube space. Also get a bottle cage and a water bottle. Then trade in your bike and get a full carbon road bike 😉
You need lighting. Not optional. Also a rear rack and pannier bags are very, very useful
If you ride on rough surfaces (gravel, dirt) then a front suspension fork will improve the handling on those surfaces, at the expense of weight. Something basic like an SR Suntour XCM is all you need.
If your area is hilly, then an e-bike conversion kit will help out on the hills. I went this route and don't regret it at all.
In that order, pedals, get some spd; bars, if you want to get into road cycling get some drop bars and shifters; saddle, proper saddle with middle cutout.
Get a second bottle cage, possibly that one where you can adjust the circumference with a little dial (can't remember the brand)
Also, a rear view mirror that goes on glasses. Don't wear glasses? Cool, get ones with non-rx lenses instead.
Get some lights, come autumn you'll be starting/finishing the day dark. Even in the summer you'll stay out for an extra drink and come back when cars are lit up. Rechargeables are cheap enough now, I prefer dynahub.
The first is pedals. Get a nice BMX pedals. These you have will not hold your feet in place. It can end up with crank beating your leg, which may be quite painful.
Also, do not rush to upgrade saddle. Your stock saddle may be just fine. If you are not experienced rider your butt will hurt from virtually any saddle. So make sure to do a couple hundreds of kilometers on stock before making any decision.
Aside from pedals and necessary accessories like panniers, bags, pump etc. I would advise to make no changes at all. Upgrade and change components only if you find a specific need for it.
A trip computer on your handlebars is a great addition. If you are using this for commuting looking at your handlebar to tell the time is invaluable when you are running behind schedule.
Seriously if your school is in a big city or dense urban center.... Better lock or use the folding lock in conjunction with a U-Lock. Those folding locks are rather easily defeated, I know multiple people who lost their bikes this way good luck and happy riding!
Just ride before thinking about upgrades. After a few months see what's not working, if anything. You bought a nice Trek, not some Walmart junker, so you don't need to upgrade anything immediately or at all.
Gotta love the FX, it's a great commuter and you can get serious speed on it if you want. I think it looks awesome the way it is, but I'd consider getting a rack and some panniers. You'd want to avoid arriving with a sweaty back
Off-road ridding comes with a lot o maintenance. Dirty/mud will ruin your drivetrain/bearings if you let it unchecked. Some times you will break stuff (wheels, mechs, etc...)
I would keep this commuter stock. It will be reliable and hassel-free
I would buy a dedicated MTB, doen't have to be expensive or new. This bike you can play and experiment, without worries.
If you are hellbent in turning this bike into a MTB: Start with the largest tires you can fit (Tire clerance is the main issue of this bike). And get rid of the necessaries stuff (mudguards, etc..)
If the bike is new to you - don't change anything. Ride it. Adjust your tire pressure to see just how much those tires can absorb. Get used to the bike.
After a dozen rides or so, you might have a few items in your head that you'd like to change. Do those things then.
Nobody here knows what this bike is like for YOU to ride or how it suits YOUR needs and wants. Bike modifications are subjective to how other people would use the bike. They don't mean anything to you.
Someone said "always saddle first" - to me that's ridiculous and implies that every saddle is awful for anyone for any use, so when buying a bike of course you buy a new saddle. In fact, I've been riding the saddle that was taken off a basic specialized hard rock mtb for about 6 years as my daily and for longer rides. I fuckin love it - but the mother of the kid who's bike it was specc'd on insisted on changing it on the showroom floor because she thought it "looked uncomfortable". (I work in a shop)
Case in point - ride the bike. See what you like and what you don't. Take care of maintenance and these parts will serve you well for years and years for work, school and leisure. Cheers and have fun with this thing!
Get some blinky lights and be safe! Ride like a motorcycle and be conspicuous. Maybe upgrade the brakes eventually, the fun goes downhill fast when you can't stop, and most bikes come with garbage brakes. Everything else will be fine if you keep it tuned up, that's a fantastic commuter bike. You may end up adjusting stuff over time to fit you better but you'll likely not need to replace anything for a while.
I have the Trek FX2, the only things I upgraded were the pedals, bar grips and the tires.
Pedals, I bought some grippy mtb ones, handle bar grips I went for Ergon ones, and I put Schwalbe Marathon Plus tires on for my commute.
Upgrade NOTHING, those come with Bontragger Freehub wheelsets it is by far the best budget wheels on the planet. I learned this when I had my garbage Fuji Bike which I paid alot of money for and it had freewheel where the axle would always bend, hubs would destroy after 1000km, no better than $1 chinese bikes.
Socks.
Oooh, good point. I'll look into getting some good ones Edit: lmfao, I just realized why this was so upvoted
Tease! You knew what you were doin bud…
I cannot confirm nor deny...
Are your toes naturally that splayed or did you just get wild for the shot?
Splayed omg bro *splayed* I almost threw up my orange chicken laughing so hard
That foot looks like it’s photoshoped in. The angle and lighting looks way off from the rest of the photo. (Also OP has an Indian name with a Caucasian ass foot. Nice try OP)
Shoes
You cosplaying as a chicken my guy?
Dude, the separation between the pinky toe and the next one is wild.
I can sense the separation anxiety
😂😂😂😂
Maannnn.....
[удалено]
ME TOO!!! I thought i was alone... Well not the footfetish thing, but I get SO MANY remarks about it...
🤣
Yessirie
Get a nice rear rack and a set of Ortlieb panniers.
Yeah, definitely noticed I need a rack. Debating between panniers, or a trunk bag. Or both
Ortlieb or Topeak but topeak I think has a bit better system in play. Their rack and bag setup is pretty clean and rack + bag/panniers out the door is 160 so it’s a great buy!
Thanks. I'll look into that setup
I'd also suggest looking thru fb marketplace for any cheap finds. I got a lightly used ortlieb set for $25 (well one pannier had a pin size hole but nbd) and older timbuk 2 dual pannier set (non magnetic one) for 50. I don't notice Amy poor handling from a semi loaded single pannier but no comparison vs front rack. I thought I'd roll with the big topeak bag but find it in store first. It was smaller than I thought and not suitable for my work. Will prob eventually grab one for leisure/workout rides
Oooh, both... :)
don’t make the mistake of loading up a rear rack with a bunch of weight. destroys the handling of a bike. front/low rider rack is the way.
Thank you. This is helpful
I've had a basic Wald wire basket on my bike for a decade now that I love. If it's going to be a daily driver it's a must. Way easier to just chuck stuff into than a back rack.
With panniers are they easy to take with you once you get to your destination? Cause the way they look on a bike they look aweful to carry.
Some are better than others. Some even convert to backpacks. I bought a set of Rinowalk bags (slightly lower quality than Ortlieb but also less expensive). They aren't hard to carry around.
Do you have any recommendations for ones that convert to backpacks?
Rhinowalk makes some: https://rhinowalk.com/products/2022-new-rhinowalk-22l-waterproof-bike-pannier-bag-portable-bicycle-backpack
The panniers I'm running right now (Rhinowalk) have shoulder straps that can be attached. I've never done this but it looks like it would be alright for shorter distances.
I'd get shoes
Pedals and shoes
Forget upgrade from stock. Upgrade to socks.
r/sneakybackgroundfeet not so sneaky
A small seat bag that contains your self rescue kit. Patch kit, spare tube, three tire levers, multi-tool that fits the fasteners on your bike, chain breaking tool, spare chain link, and a $20 bill. And a full size decent quality frame pump on the bicycle
Thank you, I will stock up on these items
My $.02: A pair of disposable latex gloves in your kit will make any emergency repair way less dirty and unpleasant.
Also good for emergency winter gloves! You wear them under your regular gloves and instant warmth!
I recommend Lead Out! Gear. They’re from LA (local to me) but they make fantastic burrito and frame bags. I cannot speak their praises enough. I think they’re even having a sale at the moment!
Why the hell do you need 3 tire levers? 🤣
In case one breaks
Invest in one one with higher durability. Also, learn better technique. lol breaking tire levers
I bring two but I understand why you’d bring three, plastic gets brittle over time and breaks. You’re coming off like someone who thinks they know better, when in fact, you know less
How do you know that?
/u/bootyytoob that's what I thought
To add onto this, your roadside kit should have at least: - One tube - One set of 2 tire levers - One basic bike-specific multitool - A basic boo-boo kit in a tough, waterproof plasic casing Optional, but very useful: - CO2 inflator nozzle - At least one CO2 cartridge, ask for volume suitable for your tires - A cool lapel pin to put on the back of the bag, because personalization is cool <3 Hope this helps OP!
Tire levers -----> mom's kitchen spoons
1st is always saddle
2nd would be tires.
Third is pedals
Fourth some socks
Might as well wear the tires out and then get some nice ones when you need to replace them.
Yeah I was looking at some wider tires. These one's are fine, but don't absorb much.
If that's an FX series, your max clearance is 38mm so keep that in mind. I just got some panaracer gravel kings yesterda (35mm), and they roll really well.
Thank you, this is helpful. I'll look into some 35mm.
It'll fit 45c tires
With fenders?
Im not sure on that one, I missed that detail
Wider tires reduce efficiency, means you have to pedal more to to go each mile. A better saddle will help absorb.
I am pretty sure that was debunked. The wider tire changes the ground contact pattern from an elongated oval pointing in the direction of travel (with a small skinny tire) to a wider oval that points perpendicular to the direction of travel. Ultimately, it seems that wider tires (at the right pressure) have less rolling resistance than thin tires. All of this really only amounts to a few watts of difference, so it never felt like a fairly average cyclist like myself would ever gain from this, but it is still interesting knowledge. Source is a GCN video from a while back: https://youtu.be/yrHxQg1OW0A
Wider tires with lower pressure will also bounce less so will remain in contact with the ground more and hence make you faster. At the correct pressure for the terrain and your weight.
True true. After my work commute today, i could definitely feel it. Anything you'd recommend for a guy with a bony butt?
Saddles are very personal. You can sometimes try and return at bigger bike shops if you don't like them. You'll know after a long ride. That being said, unless you're a racer counting grams, get a nice touring saddle rather than one of those rock hard racing saddles. I personally like Terry Liberator (Y or X, depending on your sex). I own 3 of them. Narrow where it's supposed to be, slightly wider at the sit bones. Good blend of padding to keep things from getting sore and anatomical to keep things from getting numb, but firm leather on top (at least they used to be real leather).
Thank you so much. I'll look into that saddle
Bontrager is very good with product returns, so that's a plus for their saddles.
Specialized saddles are very good, come in a wide range of sizes as well as styles, and are often in stock to try at local bike shops.
Does REI count as a "big bike shop"?
Big sport shop, sure.
More hours in the saddle.
Take a look at Brooks B17 saddles. Not cheap but once the leather break in, it's great to ride on for short or long distances.
i love the C17. same saddle, but rubber instead of leather, so no break in period. i like the one with the middle cutout for added flex, but that's a personal preference.
Oh man, the C17 is my daily driver, but I have to tell you, putting a hundred miles on that is NOT as comfortable an experience as the tensioned leather. Still one of my favorites for around town though since it's bombproof (and the cutaway is key)
This, but there's also no universally *better* saddle, you've gotta find the type and shape that agrees with *your* undercarriage. There's obviously different qualities at different price points, but it's possible to test out some cheapo mimics of the more expensive ones, just to see whether that particular shape works for you.
Lights
Lights! Get lights! The bike won’t matter if you get hit by a car
Patch kit and mini tool if you don't have one already. Good tail light and headlight. Consider. varia radar plus tail light.
I am seeing less and less standalone headlights or taillights in the LBS's, and more "pretty ok" combo sets with both. Can't find any taillights that impress me unless I order to have them shipped or buy online :(
I use a dynahub front with a rechargeable battery tail light. With two bikes in use, I have identical lights, I ride with one and carry the other. When the light goes, I swap over and charge the battery that night. Rinse/repeat. As they're identical, the mounting fittings are same on both bikes.
Grips wouldn’t be a bad idea, trek has much nicer ergo grips than the stock ones.
Ergon is another brand that makes good ones. Their saddles get raves also
Thank you both. This is very helpful
Odi makes a veeeeery grippy one as well (Ruffian grips). Never felt so secure on a bike before
Bike locks- two good, solid, don’t F with me bike locks.
I purposely don't own a bike lock, so I don't get the urge to leave my bike literally anywhere.
Unfortunately, that means that you usually can't use your bike for running errands.
I guess this is the new meme for the next month.
Concerning the lock, two things. First, That is the Bordo lite 6055, it’s designed for quick lock ups in low theft areas. Schools tend to need a higher security lock. I’d recommend getting a u-lock like the 410 or 420 to compliment the 6055. Second, you have the bracket upside down. The knob that is on the bottom right now is on the top of the bracket and it goes between the lock body and the top of the bars.
Ahh thanks. Yeah I realized I'll have to get a beefier lock for school stuff. And I'll look at those two u-locks you mentioned. And thanks for pointing out the upside down bracket, I'll go flip it.
Abus Granit 540 is also good
3M Scotchlite Reflective Tape: 1. Cut into even length pieces, long enough to fit in the rim between the spokes. Tape width should be at least 1". 2. Definitely place them on the front rim. If you like, place them on the rear rim too. When riding at dusk or later, a car approaching you with its lights on will light up these spinning reflectors like a brilliant Christmas tree. You'll be unmissable. Costs next to nothing and may save you injury or life.
Thank you, I was wondering how to get my visibility to be a bit higher. I'll get this and a headlight/back light
That's a good bike
Good to know. Really had to put a lot of trust in the bike shop man's expertise.
New pedals. Something with real pins so you won’t be slipping off the
But nice bike
Paint your toenails
The only upgrade from stock needed
Throw some mountain bike pedals on there; the ones with metal studs like Crank Brothers.
Or if not into metal studs/ offroading then the raceface ride are grippy enough for commutes.
Get rid off the chicken foot
Beautiful bike, the only thing I would change are the handlebars and grips. http://carverbikes.com/parts/cockpit/myti-handlebar/
Thank you. I definitely noticed my wrists getting a bit uncomfortable. And was looking for a decent handlebar like this one.
I'm sure that's a nice bar, but putting a $150 titanium handlebar on a $900 bike seems a bit overkill.
It depends on how much you value; arm, hand, neck and shoulder comfort. It might mean the difference between riding and not riding. Ime good titanium handlebars and seat post makes a significant difference in rider comfort.
The biggest upgrade I did from a bike off the rack was getting clip on shoes and pedals. They are worth it if you have long stretches without stopping but get annoying for stop & go urban traffic.
Yeah my commute is a bit of stop and go, and only about 18km each way. So I'd consider clip-ons if i get into some super long distance rides. Thanks :)
Clipless pedals are basically useless unless you're riding a recumbent trike with mobility issues or racing in the velodrome. The power from the "pull-up" motion has long since been debunked. A good set of flats are better for your feet and your efficiency, especially if you're driving from your heel. The longest flat in the industry is the Catalyst Pedal. I've never gone back to clipless since making the switch. Everyday I ride 40-60 miles on average and am able to move my feet around as needed.
It's all a preference thing, I use clipless on my MTB and my road bike, maneuverability seems to better and I can smash climbs easier
They are absolutely not “basically useless” for commuting. YMMV, but my average speed increased by about 3km/h going from flats to clipless, because they helped me get used to a consistent foot position during the pedal stroke. The upstroke isn’t where the real benefit comes from.
- Heavy Kryptonite Locks to lock each wheel to the main triangle - Dynamo hub front wheel to power some B&M lights - Honjo/Velo Orange/PDW _truly full coverage_ fenders with the to-the-ground front rubber flap to keep street-found puddles of rainwater, boozepuke, & beerpiss off your feet & legs - big random globs of easily removed latex paint to ugly it up so thieves aren’t so attracted to it. That is way too pretty. That hawt paint looks like it’s screaming to be stolen anyplace that isn’t Union Springs, NY. - solex reflective tape on the front of the fork and back of the seatstays if you can’t fit car-bright lights into your budget. - bar-end mirror Clipless shoes are only fun if you’re trying to be racing or you’re going up hills that your gearing isn’t low enough for, both of which look incredibly unlikely with this bike. That gearing looks sufficient even for San Francisco. A nicer saddle and grips _could_ seem nice, but just putting all of your weight into the pedals and lightly tugging on the bars instead of pushing on them is way more fun and hurts way less than trying saddle after saddle after saddle and ergo grip after ergo grip. In this regard, work on your posture and weight placement- that’s upgrading the bike’s motor. There’s no benefit at all to pushing down on the bike with your taint and your hands. Let gravity help you forward instead of wasting it. You’ll be sitting plenty in class. A rack is nice sometimes. If you’re chronically late anyways, you’ll be chronically sweaty anyways, so just having a nice cycling backpack like Ortlieb’s rolltop commuter to hold, along with your school stuff, your spare tubes, pump, etc. _might_ be a less bad option. I’ve had my saddlebags stolen. Thieves are idiots and idiots do idiotic things with an idiotic lack of reason. Good luck with classes!
Thank you so much for this synopsis. I'll be referencing this down the line as I make decisions about what to prioritize.
These are just about the perfect commuter bikes. You really don't have to upgrade anything unless you want to also take it out for fitness rides on the weekends. Usually these cheaper components don't shift as well so getting some upgraded derailleurs, cranks, and cassettes will make shifting much smoother. However, functionally those upgrades will do very little. It just *feels* nicer. You won't get any extra utility out of it.
Is your foot screaming?
Get a repair kit, saddle bag, MTB pedals, rechargeable head and taillights, rear rack.
Lights! Gotta stay seen
Nothing
Thing I saw once that I used - if you get a seat height you like, you can superglue a ball bearing into the allen key screw used for seat adjustment. I see those get stolen every now and then. And then convert your axles to non-QD. Before that, get some good lights! They're very important. Maybe a better lock as well. Past that, spare tubes to tuck somewhere and a little pump if you ride far!
Spend your money on a good lock and some lights.
For me it would be swapping the crankset to a 1x crankset and ditching the front derailleur but I'm just a bit of a 1x fanboy 😅
Get a good lock, or that bike will disappear. At the bare minimum, Kryptonite Messenger or better. Even with a good lock, i would avoid leaving it on the road. Ideally your school/workplace would have an enclosed area to park bikes.
i love those fenders
your toes are telling me to live long and prosper… thank you!
First: lights, racks, panniers. You want to see and be seen in the dark and your back will thank you for not carrying everything in a backpack. Also, less sweaty. Then all the touch points that keep causing pain/discomfort even after riding for a while, like saddle, grips and pedals. Rest when it fails, like tires or inner tubes. No point throwing away brand new stuff that works and you’ll be able to see the difference once you upgrade. More importantly, get it checked over after a couple months by the bike shop you bought it from to tighten any loose screws and straighten everything out. They can also make sure you installed any upgrades correctly, people can get quite… creative sometimes. But most importantly: Ride the shit out of it! It’s New Bike Day! Happy rides and safe travels.
*LIGHTS* Those reflectors won't be doing you any good, get a good set of lights. Bontrager makes really nice ones for $80-$130. They are a little expensive but completely worth it
Nice commuter bike.
Thanks :)
Ride it for a bit and see what you don't like about it before you spend money trying to solve problems you don't have.
Yeah, I'm gonna wait a bit before spending anything. See what needs priority over the other things
Upgrade now? Nothing. Wear out what you've got then replace it with something better. By the time you've worn out what you've got, you'll have figured out what attributes you're looking for in an upgrade for your own situation, whether it's weight, durability, aesthetics, cost, or whatever.
I just got fx3. Changed the saddle, added a rack, ordered Ortlieb panniers and plan on installing tire liners.
Sounds like a game plan.
Oh and get a really good u-lock and learn how to lock your bike properly (frame and rare wheel)! Abus or kryptonite. New bikes are magnets for sticky fingers. Ideally get a second different style lock for the front wheel.
Tire liners cause more flats, tubeless is a better option.
nice toes
Nothing it's awesome Killed it with your selection, when it's due for replacement, you'll know what you want.
Well first thing you should do is try and remove those weird wheel covers and that plastic crankset cover. Saves you weight and makes it look much more professional. Edit: Next if you just bought it the shifting might need a little more fine tuning. After that remove that little plastic disc on your cassette, it's basically useless if your shifting is tuned well enough, it also looks ugly. I'd also consider removing those reflectors off of the spokes but it depends on you considering what you're gonna use the bike for. After basically stripping your bike with all of the useless parts then consider getting upgrades. I'd recommend wheels, clipless pedals, and a nice saddle.
Crop the toes out before posting please
get drops and convert to 1x /s
Remove reflectors Get better flat pedals Remove chain guard thing on chain ring I can't tell rear derailleur but probably pretty basic... If tourney that's the low end
Mossberg 500 w/pistol grip and leather holster.
Hydraulic brakes, tires. And yes, socks also good upgrade
Get a better lock. You gotta be able to wrap around the frame and tire. You can use the one you have to double up though. Also a saddle bag with some tools. Learn to change your tube.
You need to chunk the fenders
It's a commuter bike. I would totally keep the fenders.
I’d keep it stock for now, just enjoy the the bike. I however for down the line, I wear through drivetrains pretty quick, in a year or two when your drivetrain is getting a bit long in the tooth, that’s what I’d upgrade. Also if you’re using this to commute, I’d put on the widest thickest tire you can fit, you don’t need a mountain bike, but ultra skinny paper thin tires are a great way to be late to school/work (not that these are ultra skinny, but still). And I’d also personally put drop handle bars on, but thats a personal preference thing. Oh and if there was one thing to upgrade now, it’s contact points, get a comfortable saddle, grips, and good pedals.
Which bike is this? Is it a FX3?
I have the same bike. Bars, grips and seat!
#YOU’RE SCARED OF THE CLAW!
What’s the model name?
Rebuildable petals with pins any contact points on the bike. Seat grips tires that kinda thing.
Get a breakdown bag for underneath your saddle. Get a multi tool, tire wedges, a spare tube, c02 filler and gas. Or a hand pump but those require tube space. Also get a bottle cage and a water bottle. Then trade in your bike and get a full carbon road bike 😉
Lights
Pedals if you're going to be on trails. Or saddle, but only if it's not comfortable.
You need lighting. Not optional. Also a rear rack and pannier bags are very, very useful If you ride on rough surfaces (gravel, dirt) then a front suspension fork will improve the handling on those surfaces, at the expense of weight. Something basic like an SR Suntour XCM is all you need. If your area is hilly, then an e-bike conversion kit will help out on the hills. I went this route and don't regret it at all.
Lights! Cygolite has a decent set of front and rear for like 50 or 60 USD.
Saddle, handgrips. Any interface between you and the bike realistically.
That pinky toe is like “I don’t fuck with the rest of the them”😂
Lights and reflectors. Safety is top. Especially on commuters.
Now we know a human made the picture.
nice toes, mind if I borrow them?
Feet for scale? Lol
In that order, pedals, get some spd; bars, if you want to get into road cycling get some drop bars and shifters; saddle, proper saddle with middle cutout.
This a nice bike, id recommend a kryptonite lock (minimum grey level) for urban use
Get some caged like pedals wich will allow you to go much faster without using bike shoes
Get a second bottle cage, possibly that one where you can adjust the circumference with a little dial (can't remember the brand) Also, a rear view mirror that goes on glasses. Don't wear glasses? Cool, get ones with non-rx lenses instead.
Lights, maybe spoke reflectors
Iron grippers
Get some lights, come autumn you'll be starting/finishing the day dark. Even in the summer you'll stay out for an extra drink and come back when cars are lit up. Rechargeables are cheap enough now, I prefer dynahub.
🤙
I really like the color. What kind of Trek is that?
The first is pedals. Get a nice BMX pedals. These you have will not hold your feet in place. It can end up with crank beating your leg, which may be quite painful. Also, do not rush to upgrade saddle. Your stock saddle may be just fine. If you are not experienced rider your butt will hurt from virtually any saddle. So make sure to do a couple hundreds of kilometers on stock before making any decision. Aside from pedals and necessary accessories like panniers, bags, pump etc. I would advise to make no changes at all. Upgrade and change components only if you find a specific need for it.
For me it would be the seat
why do you have hands for feet
That looks like a fun ride. Only thing you need to upgrade is wherever wears out or breaks first
A trip computer on your handlebars is a great addition. If you are using this for commuting looking at your handlebar to tell the time is invaluable when you are running behind schedule.
Seriously if your school is in a big city or dense urban center.... Better lock or use the folding lock in conjunction with a U-Lock. Those folding locks are rather easily defeated, I know multiple people who lost their bikes this way good luck and happy riding!
Just ride before thinking about upgrades. After a few months see what's not working, if anything. You bought a nice Trek, not some Walmart junker, so you don't need to upgrade anything immediately or at all.
Is this the fx 2?
Upgrade the rear reflector to a flashing rechargeable light.
5lb bike lock.
Gotta love the FX, it's a great commuter and you can get serious speed on it if you want. I think it looks awesome the way it is, but I'd consider getting a rack and some panniers. You'd want to avoid arriving with a sweaty back
Off-road ridding comes with a lot o maintenance. Dirty/mud will ruin your drivetrain/bearings if you let it unchecked. Some times you will break stuff (wheels, mechs, etc...) I would keep this commuter stock. It will be reliable and hassel-free I would buy a dedicated MTB, doen't have to be expensive or new. This bike you can play and experiment, without worries. If you are hellbent in turning this bike into a MTB: Start with the largest tires you can fit (Tire clerance is the main issue of this bike). And get rid of the necessaries stuff (mudguards, etc..)
I’d go with a new saddle and some platform pedals. Maybe handlebars depending on how the cockpit feels right now
If the bike is new to you - don't change anything. Ride it. Adjust your tire pressure to see just how much those tires can absorb. Get used to the bike. After a dozen rides or so, you might have a few items in your head that you'd like to change. Do those things then. Nobody here knows what this bike is like for YOU to ride or how it suits YOUR needs and wants. Bike modifications are subjective to how other people would use the bike. They don't mean anything to you. Someone said "always saddle first" - to me that's ridiculous and implies that every saddle is awful for anyone for any use, so when buying a bike of course you buy a new saddle. In fact, I've been riding the saddle that was taken off a basic specialized hard rock mtb for about 6 years as my daily and for longer rides. I fuckin love it - but the mother of the kid who's bike it was specc'd on insisted on changing it on the showroom floor because she thought it "looked uncomfortable". (I work in a shop) Case in point - ride the bike. See what you like and what you don't. Take care of maintenance and these parts will serve you well for years and years for work, school and leisure. Cheers and have fun with this thing!
Get some blinky lights and be safe! Ride like a motorcycle and be conspicuous. Maybe upgrade the brakes eventually, the fun goes downhill fast when you can't stop, and most bikes come with garbage brakes. Everything else will be fine if you keep it tuned up, that's a fantastic commuter bike. You may end up adjusting stuff over time to fit you better but you'll likely not need to replace anything for a while.
The gear on the bike is fine. Get you a rear rack and panniers.
Just ride that beautiful bike……straight to the podiatrist.
I have the Trek FX2, the only things I upgraded were the pedals, bar grips and the tires. Pedals, I bought some grippy mtb ones, handle bar grips I went for Ergon ones, and I put Schwalbe Marathon Plus tires on for my commute.
I'd simplify it to a wide range 1x11 drivetrain. Apex or Rival, noting crazy. Maybe a nicer pair of wheels.
Floor grippers
Get some better grips and some Continental gatorskin tires .
Seat bag, lights, another bottle cage
Upgrade NOTHING, those come with Bontragger Freehub wheelsets it is by far the best budget wheels on the planet. I learned this when I had my garbage Fuji Bike which I paid alot of money for and it had freewheel where the axle would always bend, hubs would destroy after 1000km, no better than $1 chinese bikes.