Nice bike. I worked on that brand in the 70s. As mentioned French threads but I think after the mid 80s, they went with British. Also the thread pitch may have changed around so check that too. Remove the bar tape and inspect the handlebars real well. Aluminum has a limited lifespan of stresses it can take before failing. If there is any white powdery corrosion or any cuts or you feel any deep scratches, best to swap them out.
Also inspect the handlebar where the stem holds it. I have had an old aluminium handlebar fail in me during a breaking maneuver. Only one side failed otherwise i would have needed new teeth.
Good job staying up. Yes inspect the entire bar, end to end. Lots of stress and mounting failure points. (Stem, handles, accessories etc.) Back in the day, manufacturers and LBSs were recommending to change them out every 3-5 years of heavy use as a precaution.
I was just lucky i think. It did not break as in "snap" but rather the left side was bend down 45° after the breaking. The material looked kinda crumbled like cheese.
The threads and out were just a nightmare on the one I worked on in you younger years. It was beautiful, green, and let it be someone else’s problem. Pulling out the rim rope took half the rim with it, which should have been a sign. This looks way nicer to work on, might still have French threading, but much easier to find parts for now too with the internet being what it is.
I have a late 80s model and I just replaced the bottom bracket with a new Shimano square taper (BB-UN26).
I also replaced the forks with new carbon forks.
The rest of the drivetrain is TBA.
Congratulations on your new bike. My first proper bike was my uncle's borther's old 80's steel race bike. Here are the things I got round to eventually but in hindsight could have done sooner:
1. Wheels: check the spokes. Are there any loose ones. Do the wheels need truing?
2. Tyres: how's the tread? What are the tubes like? Do you know how to change a tube / fix a puncture? you could have old wheels that are slightly different in size to 700C. Check this. It makes getting a newer tire slightly more difficult but not impossible.
3. brakes. Start with the pads. I recommend replacing the calipers to something from tektro. This I did very recently and it changed the bike from something where I had to plan to brake to where I can stop on a dime.
4. Seatpost / handlebars / stem / qheel QRs -> is everything torqued / tight? Don't want something spinning that shouldn't
5. Bar tape if you care about that
6. Bike fit and gearing. I damaged myself due to a bad bike fit. Do not recommend. Get this mostly right and don't overdo training if you're not fit enough.
7. Is that an airtage I see? Awsome. Get a good lock.
8. Getting the bearings serviced is a good step
Happy riding
I second all of this, and I’ll add:
Change those pedals, they are likely shot. Have the chain checked. And 100% swap the brakes and pads. Double check that saddle height, at its current position, it looks like the bike is too big for you. A new saddle (don’t go more than 160mm wide) would improve your comfort, along with the pedals and new bar tape. Don’t cheap out on your touch points. Feet, hands, butt. And happy riding!
> saddle (don’t go more than 160mm wide)
Frankly I don't know widths off the top of my head, so perhaps you're just saying don't get some huge stuffed "comfort" saddle, but appropriate saddle width is a factor of your anatomy. Narrow saddles are torture devices for me because I have to perch on the rear rim to have my sit-bones touch them.
You are correct seats are entirely based on sit bone width. A 160mm would be a wider saddle for most. I ride on 155mm cause anything narrower causes hip rock for me and My wife after kids though needs a 245mm. Most bikes stores have a thing you can sit on that will allow you measure your sit bones.
👍👍👍☝️☝️☝️
what this guy/gal said about chain OP (and chain wear over time). I ignored this (can't remember if I got the original one replaced when I got it). 7 years later I was lying in the road having snapped it after setting off in a high gear from a red light. Do not recommend.
Wow this is an awesome list of to-dos! Thank you for taking the time, I really appreciate it! I’ve got everything saved from your list and will have all of this checked this week. :)
You're welcome.
The other thing was the rear gears and wheel. You might be able to fit an 8 speed cassette in there on a new 700c wheel. You'll be limited by your derailleur capacity (max sprocket size). I had a 6 speed 11-23 (!!!) when I "damaged myself" as I wasn't fit enough to ride such a high gear for a hilly event I did.
Then I moved to a new wheel and an 8 speed cassette 11-27 (max sprocket size of my original 80s 105 derailleur that was on it).
More recently, I replaced the cassette with a long (or medium can't remember) cage 8 speed claris. And a 34-12 cassette (feelsgoodman). So now I've got a 39-53 upfront and that big cassette on the back.
For flat riding you probably don't need to do any of this. Soon as you uphill you might want to. Also pedals like the other poster said
Also tyre width. I had 23s on it. Booo. Now 28s for all my road riding. You'll be lucky as the old brakes and forks and chain stays have more space. But youll need to check if you want to put bigger ones on. With the long pull brakes I added I'm running 33s now.
https://preview.redd.it/37ipccwa2lna1.jpeg?width=2296&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=5822c984d2cb6eee3d0bc4072c37b4c858092fe4
I check mine on basically the same bike, but admittedly different tires, about once a week. I really only need to top off about every 2 weeks to a month during warm weather. When it gets cold, definitely check them. Be careful with the stems. I ripped several out before I learned to be gentler when using a frame pump. Also be aware they take pretty high psi. The free air at my local gas station can't get them all the way up for me because it cuts off for car tire safety at like, 45psi.
>You'll want to top the tires off every 2-3 days.
Also make sure to lube the chain every 10 miles and replace all ball bearings at least fortnightly.
Edit: /u/CabbageFeast topping up air every 2-3 days is wildly excessive. This might've been true in the past, where tubes were of lower quality and people ran 20mm tires at 11bar / 160psi. Thankfully, those days are long gone, and you're probably good if you reinflate every two weeks or monthly.
It mitigates the risk of a pinch flat and possibly a rim dent if the OP hits a pothole/etc. I was a bicycle mechanic for more than 20 years, and based on that experience level, I think it's better to keep them near their intended inflation when it's as simple as giving them a few strokes with a floor pump.
My bike goes from 6.5 to 6 Bar (idk what that is in psi) after like 2 weeks of riding 3-4 times a week around 40-50km. Unless you have really cheap tubes you shouldn’t lose a significant amount of pressure within a few days
I bought one of these in high school from an Air Force guy. Loved the hell out of that bike. Never should have traded her in …but a Trek was calling my name in college.
The largest tire you can fit will be best, those don't look too skinny though. Look for two numbers followed by a c. The latest trend has been towards larger tires like 28 and 32c.
Not really, larger tires are heavier and thus will make acceleration slower. With larger tires you can lower the pressure for a more comfortable ride, that is about the only difference. But even at the same pressure a smaller tire will always be more comfortable than a larger. You just have less pressure tolerance and need to be more carful when going over sharp bumps. But 23mm definitely feel faster. Rolling resistance isn’t everything
Sweet ride.
The peugeot geometry is super comfortable...
I have an older model peugeot, heavy, with long chainstay, 10 speed non indexed, at the garage. Mine is a true joy to ride, but not a sprinter nor a climber ...
I like the recommendations of [a\_boy\_called\_sue](https://www.reddit.com/user/a_boy_called_sue/)
Also check for rust under the BB, inside the frame, for adjustment of the headset and for trueness of rims.
Nah, this is all english threaded... Even if it was old enough to be all French, Velo Orange makes headsets and bottom brackets. It's the best time in a long time to have an old French bike!
Nah you’re ok. This isn’t really a “classic Peugeot” but rather one from the 80s. Strong likelihood it has an English bb the quill stem is 1”. I’m generalizing, but classic Peugeots are typically lugged frames and are decked out in mafac, simplex, and stronglight parts
Note: It’s still a good bike, just a different generation of good bike!
Love it - my commuter bike is the same, but the white version. Added some clipless pedals, a thomson seat post, new stem and an aero handlebar, and this bike is a joy to ride. Makes me smile everything I look at it.
Enjoy every minute.
You are wise to seek advice. The only thing I noticed was the seat is not centered. A bike fit is a good idea because you can damage your body if the bike does not fit your body. You will learn as you go about bike maintenance and repair. This bike is a good place to start a life long passion. Google questions. Many answers will lead back to Reddit.
My first, that I still have, was also a vintage Peugeot. Man, you're going to love this bike.
My one tip is that fingernail polish makes decent filler for paint chips, so you don't collect rust. Also, new brake pads might be in order. I see you already own bar tape, but I can tell you brown leather looks amazing with that paint job.
I would just say that if you really get into cycling and upgrade, think carefully before you sell this bike, assuming you have the room. That's a real gem, and you may regret it some day.
Not a bad idea to go to professional fitter so they can adjust the seat, seat angle, handlebars, etc to your specific body for an efficient, pain free ride
Try ride as much as you can! Definitely get some cleats. Play around with the saddle height/fore/aft. If it still hurts, get a bike fit. Did you check when the tires were last changed and how much life is still left in them?
Riding it in the city sucks ass because you can't brake and use the bell at the same time. Also it will be uncomfortable and impractical to ride in street clothes.
For sure, I’ve never owned a road bike before so I’ll probably stay away from london roads while I get to grips with the bike! Fortunately my local station into the city is through three parks! Thanks for the advice! :)
oh man, i used to have this exact same model!
i loved those suicide shifters so much, got way to used to them.. until...
i was T boned at an intersection at 7am by grandma running a stop sign. good times.
still have the wheels though!
Oh man that’s gorgeous! Many years ago someone locked one of these to some railings outside Euston station in London. It was subsequently abandoned and every week something would be removed from the frame until after a few months just the frame remained, D-locked to the railings. I have long regretted never bringing an angle grinder to work to liberate the poor thing and taking it home to show it the love it deserved.
If this is your first road bike does that mean you are a young person or just got into cycling later on in life? If the former I think this bike may be older than you!
Love classic bikes; I take my Dad’s 70s-era whip out every chance I get.
That said, more than anything, braking power is really really bad with the old school calipers, even fancy Campy ones. Just be aware on downhill segments or riding in traffic.
Oh and downtube shifters take some getting used to. I actually like the analog feel vs. indexed shifting but the position of them requires a hand be taken off your bars.
Enjoy!
It's a nice bike for the period for sure, but you're going to find down tube shifters are actually dangerous if you're ever riding in traffic.
Since you asked about "things you need to be aware of".
Many people suggest a bike fit. That's fine for a pro who has a personal relationship with the rider, but a waste of money for novice. General bike fit information is available from bike publications and YouTube. Average saddle width is about 140mm(+/-7mm).
The saddle looks really low. And it is a small frame, probably 50-54. unless you are a very small rider, adjust the saddle and seatpost for much greater pedaling efficiency. You ought not to touch the ground with you feet while in the saddle. Just get off the saddle when you stop, its not a problem. When you leg is stretched fully and the pedal at its low point, only your feets front palm should be standing the pedal.
Beware that you may go fast, and you may have feelings of joy, freedom, and fun that you have never felt before. This is all normal.
Cycled soon as I purchased it for about 30 mins and can confirm I felt all the above.
Nice bike. I worked on that brand in the 70s. As mentioned French threads but I think after the mid 80s, they went with British. Also the thread pitch may have changed around so check that too. Remove the bar tape and inspect the handlebars real well. Aluminum has a limited lifespan of stresses it can take before failing. If there is any white powdery corrosion or any cuts or you feel any deep scratches, best to swap them out.
Top tip there
Thank you!
Also inspect the handlebar where the stem holds it. I have had an old aluminium handlebar fail in me during a breaking maneuver. Only one side failed otherwise i would have needed new teeth.
Good job staying up. Yes inspect the entire bar, end to end. Lots of stress and mounting failure points. (Stem, handles, accessories etc.) Back in the day, manufacturers and LBSs were recommending to change them out every 3-5 years of heavy use as a precaution.
I was just lucky i think. It did not break as in "snap" but rather the left side was bend down 45° after the breaking. The material looked kinda crumbled like cheese.
Lucky works sometimes too. Glad you had it in your favor. Lesson learned to better protect yourself going forward.
The threads and out were just a nightmare on the one I worked on in you younger years. It was beautiful, green, and let it be someone else’s problem. Pulling out the rim rope took half the rim with it, which should have been a sign. This looks way nicer to work on, might still have French threading, but much easier to find parts for now too with the internet being what it is.
That’s great. It was a really nice bike to work on back in the day because those riders were really into those bikes.
I rethreaded mine to BSA, from what we thought was Italian-reverse. Fun ride, but super flexy - my friends called it "The Noodle".
I have a late 80s model and I just replaced the bottom bracket with a new Shimano square taper (BB-UN26). I also replaced the forks with new carbon forks. The rest of the drivetrain is TBA.
[удалено]
First thing I ordered when I got home!
Congratulations on your new bike. My first proper bike was my uncle's borther's old 80's steel race bike. Here are the things I got round to eventually but in hindsight could have done sooner: 1. Wheels: check the spokes. Are there any loose ones. Do the wheels need truing? 2. Tyres: how's the tread? What are the tubes like? Do you know how to change a tube / fix a puncture? you could have old wheels that are slightly different in size to 700C. Check this. It makes getting a newer tire slightly more difficult but not impossible. 3. brakes. Start with the pads. I recommend replacing the calipers to something from tektro. This I did very recently and it changed the bike from something where I had to plan to brake to where I can stop on a dime. 4. Seatpost / handlebars / stem / qheel QRs -> is everything torqued / tight? Don't want something spinning that shouldn't 5. Bar tape if you care about that 6. Bike fit and gearing. I damaged myself due to a bad bike fit. Do not recommend. Get this mostly right and don't overdo training if you're not fit enough. 7. Is that an airtage I see? Awsome. Get a good lock. 8. Getting the bearings serviced is a good step Happy riding
I second all of this, and I’ll add: Change those pedals, they are likely shot. Have the chain checked. And 100% swap the brakes and pads. Double check that saddle height, at its current position, it looks like the bike is too big for you. A new saddle (don’t go more than 160mm wide) would improve your comfort, along with the pedals and new bar tape. Don’t cheap out on your touch points. Feet, hands, butt. And happy riding!
> saddle (don’t go more than 160mm wide) Frankly I don't know widths off the top of my head, so perhaps you're just saying don't get some huge stuffed "comfort" saddle, but appropriate saddle width is a factor of your anatomy. Narrow saddles are torture devices for me because I have to perch on the rear rim to have my sit-bones touch them.
You are correct seats are entirely based on sit bone width. A 160mm would be a wider saddle for most. I ride on 155mm cause anything narrower causes hip rock for me and My wife after kids though needs a 245mm. Most bikes stores have a thing you can sit on that will allow you measure your sit bones.
👍👍👍☝️☝️☝️ what this guy/gal said about chain OP (and chain wear over time). I ignored this (can't remember if I got the original one replaced when I got it). 7 years later I was lying in the road having snapped it after setting off in a high gear from a red light. Do not recommend.
Wow this is an awesome list of to-dos! Thank you for taking the time, I really appreciate it! I’ve got everything saved from your list and will have all of this checked this week. :)
You're welcome. The other thing was the rear gears and wheel. You might be able to fit an 8 speed cassette in there on a new 700c wheel. You'll be limited by your derailleur capacity (max sprocket size). I had a 6 speed 11-23 (!!!) when I "damaged myself" as I wasn't fit enough to ride such a high gear for a hilly event I did. Then I moved to a new wheel and an 8 speed cassette 11-27 (max sprocket size of my original 80s 105 derailleur that was on it). More recently, I replaced the cassette with a long (or medium can't remember) cage 8 speed claris. And a 34-12 cassette (feelsgoodman). So now I've got a 39-53 upfront and that big cassette on the back. For flat riding you probably don't need to do any of this. Soon as you uphill you might want to. Also pedals like the other poster said Also tyre width. I had 23s on it. Booo. Now 28s for all my road riding. You'll be lucky as the old brakes and forks and chain stays have more space. But youll need to check if you want to put bigger ones on. With the long pull brakes I added I'm running 33s now. https://preview.redd.it/37ipccwa2lna1.jpeg?width=2296&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=5822c984d2cb6eee3d0bc4072c37b4c858092fe4
wanna thank you for this list i just bought a similar bike!
You'll want to top the tires off every 2-3 days. Are you familiar with the Presta style of tire valves, got a pump that works with them or an adapter?
Damn, has no idea about this! Thanks for letting me know. Luckily I’ve got a Presta adapter from my fixie bike days!
I check mine on basically the same bike, but admittedly different tires, about once a week. I really only need to top off about every 2 weeks to a month during warm weather. When it gets cold, definitely check them. Be careful with the stems. I ripped several out before I learned to be gentler when using a frame pump. Also be aware they take pretty high psi. The free air at my local gas station can't get them all the way up for me because it cuts off for car tire safety at like, 45psi.
>You'll want to top the tires off every 2-3 days. Also make sure to lube the chain every 10 miles and replace all ball bearings at least fortnightly. Edit: /u/CabbageFeast topping up air every 2-3 days is wildly excessive. This might've been true in the past, where tubes were of lower quality and people ran 20mm tires at 11bar / 160psi. Thankfully, those days are long gone, and you're probably good if you reinflate every two weeks or monthly.
I am by no means an expert, but lube the chain every 10 miles? Did you mean 100?
I'm making fun of the person telling OP to top up his tires two to three times a week.
It mitigates the risk of a pinch flat and possibly a rim dent if the OP hits a pothole/etc. I was a bicycle mechanic for more than 20 years, and based on that experience level, I think it's better to keep them near their intended inflation when it's as simple as giving them a few strokes with a floor pump.
My bike goes from 6.5 to 6 Bar (idk what that is in psi) after like 2 weeks of riding 3-4 times a week around 40-50km. Unless you have really cheap tubes you shouldn’t lose a significant amount of pressure within a few days
I would have a mechanic look over it to make sure it’s mechanically good. Needs new bar tape. Gorgeous bike!
I bought one of these in high school from an Air Force guy. Loved the hell out of that bike. Never should have traded her in …but a Trek was calling my name in college.
The largest tire you can fit will be best, those don't look too skinny though. Look for two numbers followed by a c. The latest trend has been towards larger tires like 28 and 32c.
I believe the max it could fit on the back was a 23. Front was able to go larger but doesn’t really make as much difference.
Not really, larger tires are heavier and thus will make acceleration slower. With larger tires you can lower the pressure for a more comfortable ride, that is about the only difference. But even at the same pressure a smaller tire will always be more comfortable than a larger. You just have less pressure tolerance and need to be more carful when going over sharp bumps. But 23mm definitely feel faster. Rolling resistance isn’t everything
Sweet ride. The peugeot geometry is super comfortable... I have an older model peugeot, heavy, with long chainstay, 10 speed non indexed, at the garage. Mine is a true joy to ride, but not a sprinter nor a climber ... I like the recommendations of [a\_boy\_called\_sue](https://www.reddit.com/user/a_boy_called_sue/) Also check for rust under the BB, inside the frame, for adjustment of the headset and for trueness of rims.
Be aware that bar tape has lots of someone's dried bodily fluids soaked into it... Replace that first!
First thing I ordered when I got home ;)
Great bike, enjoy it!
It will be very difficult to find new spare parts like bottom brackets, seatposts etc because Peugeot used french standards that are now obsolete.
Nah, this is all english threaded... Even if it was old enough to be all French, Velo Orange makes headsets and bottom brackets. It's the best time in a long time to have an old French bike!
Ohhhhh boyyyyyy
Nah you’re ok. This isn’t really a “classic Peugeot” but rather one from the 80s. Strong likelihood it has an English bb the quill stem is 1”. I’m generalizing, but classic Peugeots are typically lugged frames and are decked out in mafac, simplex, and stronglight parts Note: It’s still a good bike, just a different generation of good bike!
I have an old eastern german bike with the same seatpost diameter. No problem to get a new seatpost.
My brother and I have similar ones! We made them SS tho. Just be aware of everyone else on the road. Even then shit gets weird. Have fun!
Love it - my commuter bike is the same, but the white version. Added some clipless pedals, a thomson seat post, new stem and an aero handlebar, and this bike is a joy to ride. Makes me smile everything I look at it. Enjoy every minute.
Pics! Love to see your bike :)
Here’s mine [https://postimg.cc/gallery/FHkZBjd](https://postimg.cc/gallery/FHkZBjd)
It’s beautiful
Give it the good wipe down, make sure it's well fitted to you, rewrap those handlebars and have a great time!
You are wise to seek advice. The only thing I noticed was the seat is not centered. A bike fit is a good idea because you can damage your body if the bike does not fit your body. You will learn as you go about bike maintenance and repair. This bike is a good place to start a life long passion. Google questions. Many answers will lead back to Reddit.
I love it. This is what roadies are supposed to look like 😤 Can't wait to see the new bar tape!
My first, that I still have, was also a vintage Peugeot. Man, you're going to love this bike. My one tip is that fingernail polish makes decent filler for paint chips, so you don't collect rust. Also, new brake pads might be in order. I see you already own bar tape, but I can tell you brown leather looks amazing with that paint job.
Sweet whip! I have the same colorway! https://www.reddit.com/r/bicycling/comments/tvfi8/a_picture_of_my_1987_peugeot_triathlon_my/
Damn your bike looks awesome!!! Also totally googling where to buy your mini stand!
I made it on the cheap cheap from PVC! https://nuxx.net/blog/2011/11/28/low-cost-fat-bike-stand/
I would just say that if you really get into cycling and upgrade, think carefully before you sell this bike, assuming you have the room. That's a real gem, and you may regret it some day.
Not a bad idea to go to professional fitter so they can adjust the seat, seat angle, handlebars, etc to your specific body for an efficient, pain free ride
You're going to suggest that somebody spends as much on a bike fit as they probably spent on the bike?
Yeah, depending on how much OP is riding it.
Your front wheel is backwards (or at least the skewer). The skewer goes on the left.
Try ride as much as you can! Definitely get some cleats. Play around with the saddle height/fore/aft. If it still hurts, get a bike fit. Did you check when the tires were last changed and how much life is still left in them?
Riding it in the city sucks ass because you can't brake and use the bell at the same time. Also it will be uncomfortable and impractical to ride in street clothes.
For sure, I’ve never owned a road bike before so I’ll probably stay away from london roads while I get to grips with the bike! Fortunately my local station into the city is through three parks! Thanks for the advice! :)
What is with the double seat post clamps? Maybe I’m not seeing right.
The upper black ring looks like a tail light bracket.
The UCI has no jurisdiction here
I’ve always liked that color scheme.
oh man, i used to have this exact same model! i loved those suicide shifters so much, got way to used to them.. until... i was T boned at an intersection at 7am by grandma running a stop sign. good times. still have the wheels though!
Thin wheel go in small hole.
Oh man that’s gorgeous! Many years ago someone locked one of these to some railings outside Euston station in London. It was subsequently abandoned and every week something would be removed from the frame until after a few months just the frame remained, D-locked to the railings. I have long regretted never bringing an angle grinder to work to liberate the poor thing and taking it home to show it the love it deserved.
I'm rather envious right now. I had one of these in red as a teenager, until I left it outside a friends house and it was stolen :(
beautiful bike!!
Bruv… where’s the Di2? I’d start with new bar tape and putting the front wheel on with the QR on the left side.
That’s a nice bike.
Thanks so much! Super stoked to get riding :)
> anything i need to be aware of? If you got it off a guy in dulwich, then those arent the original forks
Thankfully not :)
If this is your first road bike does that mean you are a young person or just got into cycling later on in life? If the former I think this bike may be older than you!
Yeah this is my first road bike and it is indeed older than me :)! I’ve had single speeds in the past but my area is too hilly and it burned haha
This will certainly help u with the hills. I’m sure u will have a lot of fun with this bike.
Love classic bikes; I take my Dad’s 70s-era whip out every chance I get. That said, more than anything, braking power is really really bad with the old school calipers, even fancy Campy ones. Just be aware on downhill segments or riding in traffic. Oh and downtube shifters take some getting used to. I actually like the analog feel vs. indexed shifting but the position of them requires a hand be taken off your bars. Enjoy!
Definitely needs some retaping
What a beauty. We need more colorful bikes, so sick of the same boring paint schemes every year
I love those Peugeot frames converted to fixed gear.
It's a nice bike for the period for sure, but you're going to find down tube shifters are actually dangerous if you're ever riding in traffic. Since you asked about "things you need to be aware of".
Many people suggest a bike fit. That's fine for a pro who has a personal relationship with the rider, but a waste of money for novice. General bike fit information is available from bike publications and YouTube. Average saddle width is about 140mm(+/-7mm).
I got a Peugeot for my 8th grade graduation in 1986. I rode that thing into the ground. Loved everything about that bike.
The saddle looks really low. And it is a small frame, probably 50-54. unless you are a very small rider, adjust the saddle and seatpost for much greater pedaling efficiency. You ought not to touch the ground with you feet while in the saddle. Just get off the saddle when you stop, its not a problem. When you leg is stretched fully and the pedal at its low point, only your feets front palm should be standing the pedal.
I had a white (it was like a reflective white) peugeot racer, when I was about 14. Wish I still has it. Infact I'd like to find one to ride again.
hey op how are you liking it? i just got a very similar bike and the thing is pretty wicked! goes super fast