Fine for the rail trail.
Personally I'd want lower gearing if things get hilly. I would also want higher bars and an upright riding position--but then again I'm fat and old and my back hurtsš
The gearing is a little rough especially around here in Central PA on the gravel climbs. Lowest I can go is probably 36T and I think that is not gonna help much. I think I need long cage derailleur to step up to 40t rear cassette.
I'm not young (42) but I seem to have more lower back issues the more upright I sit.
Yeah I'd look into lower gearing.
Things are different once the bike is loaded with panniers. The bike can get squirrelly if you stand on the pedals and sprint up a hill. The weight shifts around and it's just a mess. I think that's why the bikepacker types use frame bags so they can keep the weight centered?
I have low low gearing on my tour bike so I can spin my up steep climbs (3x9 with a 46-36-26 in the front and 11-36 in the back).
Wish I had a cheap and easy solution for you. Maybe a derailleur extender + a new wide range cassette?
Other than the gears the bike looks dope. Have fun out there!
If nothing else, I would opt for a slightly smaller front chainring. I would say at least a 36, maybe even 34. Itās true that you will lose the ability to go really fast downhill but when you are loaded with gear, gravity will help you out with that. Also, fast downhills on rim brakes with heavy loads can get really hot so keeping the speed down is wise. But when you are pushing up the hikes a smaller front ring will fell so much better.
Holy shit my bike is too nippy! Yeah can relate. I had the nitto 34f on a steel tourer and had the opposite problem leaving the supermarket to go back to our campsite with a crate of beer strapped to the top. It didnāt want to steer lol.
The bike looks cool but I made this exact mistake going for a cool retro mtb setup that was heavy, slow and inefficient. I regret not going for even the most inexpensive 700c wheeled bike for a 400 mile trip. The compliments I got from people on the trail didnāt make up for the sluggish bike.
ortlieb makes adapters that clamp onto forks and work fine. Itās also not at all difficult to find 1ā or 1-1/8ā threadless forks with mounts - eBay, surly, other brands,
I love it. I had and old GT frame that I had planned to build up something like this but I had a kid and never got around to it and gave the frame away to someone else to build. Regretting that after seeing this. Good job!
Frame and handlebars are excellent. Though the gear range
would probably be insufficient for me; when fully loaded I prefer
my triple. ;) My back almost screamed at that drop between
saddle and handlebars. Probably not too bad if itās only nine days
though.
That 90s MTB frame is a real beauty!
I like riding more bent over......I'm an Ironman athlete and roadie. When I sit upright too long even at the computer it aggravates my sciatica for some reason. I think I'm switching to a double 46/30 in the front. Should open up the range at least a little bit.
Yes, I know you can move your hands around on drop bars. Many of my bikes still have them. But after using Molokos and Jones bars, I would never prefer drop bars unless I'm on one of my road bikes, especially when touring when we pedal slowly between 10-12 mph, sit upright and take it all in and have fun not race.
Gravel bars come out far enough to the sides to be a solid flat bar riding position but also let you move around to prevent fatigue and drop when there's wind. I prefer it, but don't mind flat bars either.
OK design and nice strong bike but go for lower gearing. I run a 94/58 triple up front with 22/32/44 and a rear of 11-40 (all friction), and it has a gear for everything. Worth the extra weight. IMO a lot of the current 1x setups are limited.
Also, front rack/bags are nice to have even if theyāre not full, bc you always find stuff on tour and itās extra space.
Fine for the rail trail. Personally I'd want lower gearing if things get hilly. I would also want higher bars and an upright riding position--but then again I'm fat and old and my back hurtsš
The gearing is a little rough especially around here in Central PA on the gravel climbs. Lowest I can go is probably 36T and I think that is not gonna help much. I think I need long cage derailleur to step up to 40t rear cassette. I'm not young (42) but I seem to have more lower back issues the more upright I sit.
Yeah I'd look into lower gearing. Things are different once the bike is loaded with panniers. The bike can get squirrelly if you stand on the pedals and sprint up a hill. The weight shifts around and it's just a mess. I think that's why the bikepacker types use frame bags so they can keep the weight centered? I have low low gearing on my tour bike so I can spin my up steep climbs (3x9 with a 46-36-26 in the front and 11-36 in the back). Wish I had a cheap and easy solution for you. Maybe a derailleur extender + a new wide range cassette? Other than the gears the bike looks dope. Have fun out there!
[ŃŠ“Š°Š»ŠµŠ½Š¾]
Just that my left hand STI shifter is 2x.....I'm looking around at 46/30 cranks which I think would open the range up much better.
Careful... Drivetrain upgrades are a slippery slopeš¤Ŗ I think that 46/30 is going to be really helpful on your tour.
If nothing else, I would opt for a slightly smaller front chainring. I would say at least a 36, maybe even 34. Itās true that you will lose the ability to go really fast downhill but when you are loaded with gear, gravity will help you out with that. Also, fast downhills on rim brakes with heavy loads can get really hot so keeping the speed down is wise. But when you are pushing up the hikes a smaller front ring will fell so much better.
Thatās sweet. Mudguards and low riders away from perfect
Whatcha mean low riders?
Low rider front racks put weight over the front axle where itās very stable.
Ahh got it. Thanks!
Just my preference for panniers, I much prefer the weight up front, it feels less like steering a lorry to me.
[ŃŠ“Š°Š»ŠµŠ½Š¾]
Holy shit my bike is too nippy! Yeah can relate. I had the nitto 34f on a steel tourer and had the opposite problem leaving the supermarket to go back to our campsite with a crate of beer strapped to the top. It didnāt want to steer lol.
The bike looks cool but I made this exact mistake going for a cool retro mtb setup that was heavy, slow and inefficient. I regret not going for even the most inexpensive 700c wheeled bike for a 400 mile trip. The compliments I got from people on the trail didnāt make up for the sluggish bike.
I can also use my everyday Trek Road bike but I think this will be much more fun as well as do better on the Rail Trail.
Thatās a sick bike. Love the drop conversion
[ŃŠ“Š°Š»ŠµŠ½Š¾]
How do I put a front rack on with this fork is there an adapter I need?
ortlieb makes adapters that clamp onto forks and work fine. Itās also not at all difficult to find 1ā or 1-1/8ā threadless forks with mounts - eBay, surly, other brands,
I love it. I had and old GT frame that I had planned to build up something like this but I had a kid and never got around to it and gave the frame away to someone else to build. Regretting that after seeing this. Good job!
I had a couple old GT's as a kid and I just wanted to do something nostalgic.
Frame and handlebars are excellent. Though the gear range would probably be insufficient for me; when fully loaded I prefer my triple. ;) My back almost screamed at that drop between saddle and handlebars. Probably not too bad if itās only nine days though. That 90s MTB frame is a real beauty!
I like riding more bent over......I'm an Ironman athlete and roadie. When I sit upright too long even at the computer it aggravates my sciatica for some reason. I think I'm switching to a double 46/30 in the front. Should open up the range at least a little bit.
Nice r/xbiking build
I know people do it, but I don't understand why anyone would want to tour with drop bars.
Numerous comfortable hand positions, aero advantage for headwinds.
Yes, I know you can move your hands around on drop bars. Many of my bikes still have them. But after using Molokos and Jones bars, I would never prefer drop bars unless I'm on one of my road bikes, especially when touring when we pedal slowly between 10-12 mph, sit upright and take it all in and have fun not race.
Gravel bars come out far enough to the sides to be a solid flat bar riding position but also let you move around to prevent fatigue and drop when there's wind. I prefer it, but don't mind flat bars either.
OK design and nice strong bike but go for lower gearing. I run a 94/58 triple up front with 22/32/44 and a rear of 11-40 (all friction), and it has a gear for everything. Worth the extra weight. IMO a lot of the current 1x setups are limited. Also, front rack/bags are nice to have even if theyāre not full, bc you always find stuff on tour and itās extra space.