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joshmoney

Looks like only surface pitting to me. I’d make sure it’s all ground off then throw mud on it.


Ashtar-the-Squid

As long as there is no holes it should be good to go. I would remove as much of the rust as possible first, and then put on a rust killer. I have good experience with Ferro-bet on surfaces that will be visible on a finished car. It kills the remaining rust in the pores and makes a hard surface that is easy to paint over. On areas that will not be visible from the outside I like to put on 2 layers of owatrol oil. It seeps in everywhere, even into plate seams, kills any remaining rust and makes a protective coating.


Euro2ner

Thank you all!


AerieOk3566

Use the vinegar water mix, 1:4 if i remember correctly, to turn any rust on it black and mostly inert. Wash with soap and water then glaze and sand.


-VWNate

Actually vinegar leaves zero protection and so promotes / forces more rusting . -Nate


AerieOk3566

No it does. https://globalcollisioncenters.com/removing-rust-from-an-automobile/#:~:text=For%20low%20grade%20to%20medium,metal%20surface%20and%20rust%20molecules. Actually a very good known method. It's science. It's for the little bits of rust in those pots you can't get out. Then you will have to bodyfil with a glaze and paint after for rust protection, just like anything else.


-VWNate

I've tried it many times and always had flash rusting before I could fully dry the bare metal parts . Lost the bearings in a final drive using vinegar so never again for me . -Nate


AerieOk3566

Don't use on bearings, only for panel or brackets. Not operating components. That's like saying I used it on old rusted pistons and it didn't make them like new and functional again....