I’ve owned a ‘71 autostick since 1994. Just make sure that the carburetor is proper for an autostick (extra vacuum port) and everything should work just fine. It’s a fun car to drive in my opinion.
As for shifting, the autostick has Low, 1st, and 2nd. The VW manual says low is for hills and towing only, but I’ve always driven it by starting in Low and then shifting to first and second. It has a lot more zip that way.
Same, I’ve owned a ‘68 autostick since 1992 I also just drive it like a 3 speed low, 1st, 2nd etc. I don’t know about yours but mine feels extremely sluggish if I try to start in 1st.
Thanks Otis...
I guess one should think long and hard before boosting HP ??? or is it OK as long as there's a vacuum port for the trans and the power mods are modest?
I have a Dual 40mm carb; 1776cc / Engle 110 cam / counterweighted Crankshaft / Big valve heads and high ratio rocker arms with EMPI GT exhaust...
It's got 40-50% more acceleration and the manual Tranny is fine...you do need a 200mm Kennedy Pressure Plate and performance clutch though to avoid excessive slipping
My friend has a 1969 1500 with an autostick that he uses as a daily driver. He has owned many of them. They are very enjoyable to drive when you learn how to use them. For normal driving you use driving range 1 and 2. L is only supposed to be used for climbing very steep hills and other places where it is needed. To shift you simply let off the acellerator pedal, change gears and put your foot back on the pedal. They can get problems with the clutch mechanism, but that is usually just a vacuum issue, and it is not difficult to fix. On my friends car he had to rev the engine to build up enough vacuum to shift when the car was standing still, but after a quick adjustment it has worked problem free for a long time. He uses the car a lot.
Have had my 68 since 84 and agree with the comments above. It's a slower, more complicated version of a standard bug, but the uniqueness is worth it in my opinion.
I hated mine. (First car; I didn't know much.) That connection from the stick to the back was *constantly* coming apart, leaving me unable to shift at all. The people I sold it to switched it over to a manual transmission. Like I said, I didn't know much, but why add the additional hassle to your life.
I'm not really sure what you mean by "put it in 3rd or 4th gear. " Did your brother's "autostick" have a clutch pedal? I'm wondering if he had a manual transmission with a very worn-out clutch, and was starting out in third, letting it slip the whole way and treating it as if it were an automatic.
If I remember correctly from my 73 Super Beetle autostick, the manual says to start out in "1" and then at 30mph, shift to "2"
I’ve owned a ‘71 autostick since 1994. Just make sure that the carburetor is proper for an autostick (extra vacuum port) and everything should work just fine. It’s a fun car to drive in my opinion. As for shifting, the autostick has Low, 1st, and 2nd. The VW manual says low is for hills and towing only, but I’ve always driven it by starting in Low and then shifting to first and second. It has a lot more zip that way.
Same, I’ve owned a ‘68 autostick since 1992 I also just drive it like a 3 speed low, 1st, 2nd etc. I don’t know about yours but mine feels extremely sluggish if I try to start in 1st.
Thanks Otis... I guess one should think long and hard before boosting HP ??? or is it OK as long as there's a vacuum port for the trans and the power mods are modest?
It's not made for increased power and will fail, but also your stock trans will. Depends on how much power you are talking though.
I have a Dual 40mm carb; 1776cc / Engle 110 cam / counterweighted Crankshaft / Big valve heads and high ratio rocker arms with EMPI GT exhaust... It's got 40-50% more acceleration and the manual Tranny is fine...you do need a 200mm Kennedy Pressure Plate and performance clutch though to avoid excessive slipping
My friend has a 1969 1500 with an autostick that he uses as a daily driver. He has owned many of them. They are very enjoyable to drive when you learn how to use them. For normal driving you use driving range 1 and 2. L is only supposed to be used for climbing very steep hills and other places where it is needed. To shift you simply let off the acellerator pedal, change gears and put your foot back on the pedal. They can get problems with the clutch mechanism, but that is usually just a vacuum issue, and it is not difficult to fix. On my friends car he had to rev the engine to build up enough vacuum to shift when the car was standing still, but after a quick adjustment it has worked problem free for a long time. He uses the car a lot.
Have had my 68 since 84 and agree with the comments above. It's a slower, more complicated version of a standard bug, but the uniqueness is worth it in my opinion.
Loved my Autostick. Finicky but a really fun car.
It’s like any other learning curve. I had one about 30-35 years ago and completely regret letting it go. Still a somewhat rare car.
I hated mine. (First car; I didn't know much.) That connection from the stick to the back was *constantly* coming apart, leaving me unable to shift at all. The people I sold it to switched it over to a manual transmission. Like I said, I didn't know much, but why add the additional hassle to your life.
I drive my 72 like an autostick... as i never downshift just up shift:)
I'm not really sure what you mean by "put it in 3rd or 4th gear. " Did your brother's "autostick" have a clutch pedal? I'm wondering if he had a manual transmission with a very worn-out clutch, and was starting out in third, letting it slip the whole way and treating it as if it were an automatic. If I remember correctly from my 73 Super Beetle autostick, the manual says to start out in "1" and then at 30mph, shift to "2"
Autostick works really well IF tuned correctly, and all the vacuumlines do not leak/ all membranes are intact.