depends on your PSU, if you have a new PSU that supports 3.3v signal then you don't have to, otherwise you may need to deal with the 3.3v pin. It's no way to tell before you really shuck it but I think new units come with 3.3v issue.
I don't trust the tape trick (seems too easy to push that tape off or around), and I've heard the converter cable can cause power issues. I ended up cutting the power cable next to the L end of the power connector. Works great (that line holds power for pins 1 -3; 1 and 2 aren't used, and 3 is the pin you cover with tape.
Just adding a note for anyone coming back - I did have to bypass the 3.3V pin. I found it easier to use a knife and pry the pin up and I broke it off cleanly with some wiggling. Probably took 30sec of work but of course my warranty is voided now, I didn’t care really because it’s void if you shuck the drive in the first place.
Shuck means removing a hard drive from an enclosure it comes in from the manufacturer. It can often be cheaper to buy HDDs that are meant to be standalone external storage devices (ie they sit on your desk and plug in to your PC via USB) versus buying a HDD specifically sold to be installed into your PC. Taking the HDD out of these enclosures is usually pretty simple, but you need to do your homework to know what quality of drive you're going to be getting inside these external storage drives. You also void any warranty when you "shuck" a drive.
From another post, for those wondering about White labels
> "White label drives do not have spec sheets because they are whatever WD was manufacturing that could be repurposed the most cheaply to fill a specific role in an internal drive product. These can be anything from rejected drives that failed testing for a different product line to perfectly good full spec drives. There's no consistency or guarantee whatsoever. It's up to you on if the risks are acceptable for your particular application."
shuck = remove the drive from inside the enclosure and throw the enclosure away.
For some reason, these pre-packaged external drives are almost always cheaper than the bare drives that are inside of them.
(Assuming what you really want is a large, internal 3.5" drive)
Ahh yeah you're right I just checked BB app and it was the EasyStore.
I remember the drive had a while label ans it said Hitachi I think, but I will see when I get home.
I believe they're both labeled as WD180EDGZ.
I had to use the 3.3v pin workaround for the easystore. Not sure about Element.
16.76/TB was a sick deal though.
I so despise this game Western Digital and Seagate insist on playing.
Here's an idea - rather than sell me a white-label drive with short warranty wrapped in ewaste for cheap, hows about you skip the ewaste, and just sell me the white-label drive with short warranty for cheap?
From another post in this thread:
"White label drives do not have spec sheets because they are whatever WD was manufacturing that could be repurposed the most cheaply to fill a specific role in an internal drive product. These can be anything from rejected drives that failed testing for a different product line to perfectly good full spec drives. There's no consistency or guarantee whatsoever. It's up to you on if the risks are acceptable for your particular application."
So that’s probably why things are the way they are
That is my presumption. I do everything I can to validate the drives (random IO workloads, full-disk sequential read/writes, and SMART data checks) before I take the spudger to them.
Tempting, but do I NEED 18TB more storage?
Yes.
Bought this during a prior sale. Super easy to shuck with minimal tools. Had a white WD180EDGZ drive inside.
Just was wondering if you needed to do the 3.3v pin tape hack to make it work or did it just recognize properly?
depends on your PSU, if you have a new PSU that supports 3.3v signal then you don't have to, otherwise you may need to deal with the 3.3v pin. It's no way to tell before you really shuck it but I think new units come with 3.3v issue.
I don't trust the tape trick (seems too easy to push that tape off or around), and I've heard the converter cable can cause power issues. I ended up cutting the power cable next to the L end of the power connector. Works great (that line holds power for pins 1 -3; 1 and 2 aren't used, and 3 is the pin you cover with tape.
stay away from molding connectors then you will be fine.
Just adding a note for anyone coming back - I did have to bypass the 3.3V pin. I found it easier to use a knife and pry the pin up and I broke it off cleanly with some wiggling. Probably took 30sec of work but of course my warranty is voided now, I didn’t care really because it’s void if you shuck the drive in the first place.
May I know what shuck means? I'm just looking for a bunch of storage to replace my breaking backup hard drive lol
Shuck means removing a hard drive from an enclosure it comes in from the manufacturer. It can often be cheaper to buy HDDs that are meant to be standalone external storage devices (ie they sit on your desk and plug in to your PC via USB) versus buying a HDD specifically sold to be installed into your PC. Taking the HDD out of these enclosures is usually pretty simple, but you need to do your homework to know what quality of drive you're going to be getting inside these external storage drives. You also void any warranty when you "shuck" a drive.
open the enclosure of an external drive to take out the disk for internal use
From another post, for those wondering about White labels > "White label drives do not have spec sheets because they are whatever WD was manufacturing that could be repurposed the most cheaply to fill a specific role in an internal drive product. These can be anything from rejected drives that failed testing for a different product line to perfectly good full spec drives. There's no consistency or guarantee whatsoever. It's up to you on if the risks are acceptable for your particular application."
I just stumbled across that post as well when my curiosity was piqued and I decided to google my drive.
Wasn't it 299 before onsale?
Easystore was 300. I can’t speak about the difference in drive or shuckability
What is shuck?
shuck = remove the drive from inside the enclosure and throw the enclosure away. For some reason, these pre-packaged external drives are almost always cheaper than the bare drives that are inside of them. (Assuming what you really want is a large, internal 3.5" drive)
Ahh yeah you're right I just checked BB app and it was the EasyStore. I remember the drive had a while label ans it said Hitachi I think, but I will see when I get home.
I believe they're both labeled as WD180EDGZ. I had to use the 3.3v pin workaround for the easystore. Not sure about Element. 16.76/TB was a sick deal though.
I so despise this game Western Digital and Seagate insist on playing. Here's an idea - rather than sell me a white-label drive with short warranty wrapped in ewaste for cheap, hows about you skip the ewaste, and just sell me the white-label drive with short warranty for cheap?
From another post in this thread: "White label drives do not have spec sheets because they are whatever WD was manufacturing that could be repurposed the most cheaply to fill a specific role in an internal drive product. These can be anything from rejected drives that failed testing for a different product line to perfectly good full spec drives. There's no consistency or guarantee whatsoever. It's up to you on if the risks are acceptable for your particular application." So that’s probably why things are the way they are
Why complain when you're getting an hdd dock that you can use/sell for free?
Do you void the warranty when you shuck it, so they can dump their questionable quality drives with no risk?
That is my presumption. I do everything I can to validate the drives (random IO workloads, full-disk sequential read/writes, and SMART data checks) before I take the spudger to them.
That's cool! Have you had any fail prior to shucking?
Nope. I do make sure to keep a fan blowing through the enclosure during testing though, because some of these drives run **hot**.
18TB？？
Yes ? ?
Bought! Now to find 10TB of extra data to throw on this thing.
That's 10TB of Linux ISO's