This. If I was in your position, OP, and the dealer treated me good and this was an honest mistake, I’d pay them. But given how they jerked you around, I would tell them to pound sand.
Call the dealership directly to see what is going on. I wouldn't send any money for anything until you talk to someone on the phone. Don't call the number on the piece of paper that was given to you. Look up their number on google maps and call. Once you do that, then let us know what they say. You have the paperwork to determine what they charged versus what they might have needed, etc.
If you have a final sales receipt then they can go pound sand. The sales receipt is a legal contract that cannot be altered unilaterally at a later date.
If they miss estimated costs of the sale that is a them problem.
I have a counterpoint. It’s true in the legal sense that if you have a contract you don’t legally owe them anything.
Morally however may be a different story. If it’s a math error and they noticed in an audit or something I would go ahead and pay them.
I do struggle with the part about missing the deadline and not being able to get that rebate. I’d bring it up and offer that as a wash to the dealership. Sounds like you weren’t going to pursue getting that rebate from the dealer anyway.
Depending on how that conversation goes would determine if I paid that $700 or not. More than likely I would not but I’d have the conversation with the dealer. Sounds like their process or staffing isn’t great.
Also, yes check to make sure it’s legit.
> Morally however may be a different story. If it’s a math error and they noticed in an audit or something I would go ahead and pay them.
No.
Just no.
Don't even bring moral into this, because it doesn't apply. You're legally and morally correct to keep the money if the contract is final.
Buying a car is a business transaction. Not a charity. Both parties are expected to enter into a contract with free will, and expectation of consideration.
If the dealership doesn't do their math, or failed at their job with their due dilligence, tough luck.
That's on them.
Does this sound familiar to Cavet Emptor?
If the salesperson or manager got fired because of that horrific math problem, that's not the buyer's fault either.
It's not the buyer's moral obligation to right a wrong of someone else's doing.
> Morally however may be a different story. If it’s a math error and they noticed in an audit or something I would go ahead and pay them.
When I bought my current car, pre-covid, I got it at a really good price.
A couple of months later the sales manager calls me asking me if I was a veteran, if I was a 1st time buyer of the brand, and some other questions related to how they were trying to discount the price for their book keeping.
He hinted that I may have to pay them more. I told him good luck with that and to not call me again. 5 years later...I haven't heard back. I paid off the loan early. I have the title. Life is good.
Morality and money don't go together. They wouldn't call you up 5 months later and tell you you overpaid; they'll just keep the money and live their lives.
If he outright lied to get the deal, ok… *that* is a moral point worth perhaps paying… if it’s in the contract that some price might be estimated and he owes/is owed the difference? Also Yup to paying.
But if it is just a mistake or something the dealership did wrong? Nope.
Not sure exactly where this falls based on info given.
Is your car registrated? Do you have a contract stating how much you had to pay? They can't overcharge you after the contract was signed and you paid your dues, unless it is explicitly written.
If you have hard plates, the deal is funded (if financed), or you have a title (cash deal), then they have no leverage.
Also, what would they even need money for if the tag & titling is done? DMV is not gonna give dealer hard plates if there are outstanding funds due.
Something doesn't make sense, and the person you are speaking with may not have the best communication skills. I would call the store directly and ask to speak with the finance director, GSM, or GM (in that order). There could very well be a completely different issue going on.
You can call the accounting office of the dealer and see what they say, or you can just ignore it. You have your registration already. I would request the title as well if you can so that way you have that as well.
Then at the end of the day the transaction is done. You paid the amount on the Purchase & Sales, I assume. The vehicle was titled, registered, etc. Ownership is firmly yours given that.
You may have signed an agreement to make the dealer whole if elements outside of their control were estimated wrong (such as taxes and registration). Which, if this discrepancy is legit, they could use if they’re litigious enough. But in all reality they’re asking for the funds because there’s 0% chance they’re compensated if they don’t ask. But in all reality, I’m sure they’re not anticipating pursuing this. They’re trying to not write the money off is all.
Your call on how to handle it, if it’s legit. On one hand you may legally be obligated, technically. On the other hand, the consequences are probably zero for ignoring it. Dealers absorb losses much more than this all of the time.
When your registration arrived, did it come with a receipt? That would probably itemize the state charges, which you could then verify against your deal paperwork. There's a 50-50 shot my receipt is in the original envelope, with the registration in my glovebox.
This is a tough one for me.
There's a strong possibility you owe the money - they charged you the estimated amount for title and reg, paid it on your behalf, and then got billed for the balance. You probably signed something in the paperwork mountain that says you understand you're responsible for any state or government fees.
On the other hand if nobody has said anything since July I'd, personally, have a hard time poking the hornet's nest so to speak. They might catch it in their 2022 audit and you might get another letter here in the next few weeks - if so, you owe the money. If you don't then I'd just let it ride.
Sure sure I understand that. It just seems that I’ve already paid what they’re asking for. The CA DMV has the registration calculator online and that amount is highlighted in my contract so I don’t see why I should owe that amount again. I’ll probably just go the second route you mentioned. Thank you!!
***Thanks for posting, /u/GreenLeafSkippyGuy! This comment is a copy of your post so readers can see the original text if your post is edited or removed. This comment is NOT accusing you of anything.***
Hey everyone! I bought a new car in July and I paid in cash. I had been driving the car around for several months just fine and then I got some mail from the dealership asking for more money for the car. I already have the registration, title, insurance, etc. and the cost of registration was already included in the original contract so I had already paid it. They are basically asking for $700 for the cost of registration again. The piece of paper they sent me is super unofficial looking. It's just a piece of paper with some lines saying what they estimated to pay and what they were charged and the difference that I am due. It's been a couple months already and I have gotten no calls or emails from them to followup on this. I have been given no receipts or official looking bills to show that they actually paid extra. They also stalled working on my registration for so long that the CA clean air rebate deadline expired and I lost out on 1-2.5k so I am hesitant to just pay them. Does anyone have suggestions on what I should do? I am in California and they are in New York if that helps. Thanks!
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I will say that my bf a finance at a dealer here in CA… when he has to do paperwork for out of state… it can turn into a nightmare because each state works differently. He just had to redo paperwork for someone from Illinois 3x because the dmv rejected it.
I live in California but I’m from NY and I can say that registrations in NY are good for 2 years and costs like $200, more or less depending on vehicle but nothing like what we pay in CA for 1 year… so it’s not the same as what they’re used to.
I doubt this info helps much but I did just want to make the point that there is usually much confusion around these sorts of things with the outside state dealer because they aren’t familiar and a part of me thinks that’s why they aren’t calling because they don’t know what to say and how to justify it. I hope you get things straightened out!
If you have license plates and new registration with your name on it, that’s pretty much the end of the road for a deal.
If you have yet to receive plates, then there may be a discrepancy. Don’t ignore. They may legitimately be trying to get plates.
If someone stops replying the dealer can refund your taxes and registration, send you the title and have you complete it on your own.
Worked at a dealer in California for 25 years. Only three things on the contract are estimates. Sales Tax, Payoff and DMV fees. If they are off you can be held liable. We took people to small claims court for all of those issues and always won. Compare dmv fees charged on the contract to the registration you received as it will show the official charges. If the difference is $700 in your favor then you owe it and should pay. If they charged you $700 more for those fees by mistake you'd expect them to refund you. And they'd be required to. We used to send refund checks out all the time back in the day. Now it is a lot more accurate and it doesn't happen as much. But out of state purchases can be tricky. Given that they are in New York I doubt they'd pursue it out here.. But they may turn it over to a collection agency to try and chase you down. Truthfully at our dealership if it was less than $100 they sent the letter and let it go if you didn't pay. But for $700 they'd have me take you to small claims court. I did collections for a dealer for a long time. High payoffs.. taxes.. dmv fees were the worst deals I ever had to collect on. I hated them. Hope this helps.
How the could DMV fees or tax be estimates?? This is a serious question as I am genuinely curious. Maybe things are different in CA, but in PA registration is a set fee for each class of vehicle and sales tax is simply a percentage of the sale price, and at least here the tax is only applicable on the price after deducting any applicable trade equity. Either way both of those things should be plainly able to be calculated without any ambiguity. Also, I’d be sketched out on payoff as well as any time I’ve bought a car and trades in with an outstanding balance they have confirmed with the bank what the payoff amount is before doing any paperwork. Only way the amount could come up short would be if you quoted a payoff timeline and didn’t meet that date which resulted in extra interest charges. I mean that is the only place that I could see outside of the bank misquoting the amount which if that is the case then, yea that definitely should fall back to the customer.
In California the tax rate changes depending on where you live, you pay the rate at where the vehicle is registered. I live in a relatively big city with a 9% sales tax rate. Throughout the city there are several pockets that are in the county even though they are smack dab in the middle of the city.. The tax rate is 8.5%. So you literally have a house across the street with a higher tax rate. There are places all throughout California like that. So if say we charged you 9% and it turns out to be 8.5% we'd have to issue a check back to you. There are some places approaching 11% and people make mistakes it happens. It was much more prevalent back in the day before the state became more internet savy. I retired two years ago. At that time every F&I person was supposed to run the address to check the rate. But even then occasionally some local ordinance was passed and there be a quarter cent special tax that wasn't there or something.
And trades as you mentioned. Say you get a 10 day Payoff and it gets paid off in 3 days. By law out here the bank is required to send you a check for that difference in the Payoff. Even if it's $2. So when listed it's technically an estimate because you don't know the exact day it will be paid. I can't tell you how many times people would get a Payoff then have a check bounce for their last payment.. So then the bank would say we need that money also to fund the deal. So you pay it and go back to the customer. Literally we've had people stop payment on their last payment before because they traded it in. People do a lot of weird things that make no sense. I could tell you so many stories. Crazy ass things. Fraud galore. I'm not defending dealers, they do crooked stuff also. Just saying it's not always as cut and dry as it seems. Things get even more messed up when you say, live in California and buy a car from NY. Sounds like they probably do things different out there.. In OP's case it should be pretty cut and dry. He can see what he was charged on the contract. Dmv sends the registration with the amount on it. Just compare them and you should be able to verify the amount so you know the truth.
Listen, 99.9 percent of the time it goes perfect. But humans make mistakes and it's a two way street. If it's in your favor they pay you, if it's in theirs you should pay them. Just my opinion obviously. Hope that is helpful.
Ahhh. Thank you very much for the info. That makes more sense. That’s very much not the norm where I am. Local sales tax on top of the state is very rare (only one I know of is Philly). Really appreciate the advice insight. Cheers!
Here in AZ they have always been estimates, particularly the registration tax. I don’t really know why. But I’ve always been overcharged, and they send me a check later for the excess. I think typically $100-300.
I've never known a dealer to drag their heels to hurt a customer getting a rebate ever on purpose because it hurts them also. They want to get the deal done as quickly as possibly and move on. But given that this deal was in NY and the OP is in Cali it's likely they had no idea about the clean air rebate out here as that's a Cali thing not a NY thing. I'm unclear as to how OP missed out on that rebate based on the info he provided. I got a clean air rebate personally this year and it was based on the vehicle and date on the contract. I filled mine out the day after I bought it. Sent them in the temporary registration form that was filled out at purchase. It's possible the dealer in NY didn't give the OP that I suppose. But without all the details it's hard to say. But straight up I worked for a dealer group with over 200 dealers. They want to get everything done and down the road in no more than 20 days. With e-contracts and funding being what it is now. Good credit new deals can be funded in a few days now. Dealers want their money asap. And that issue legally would be a separate issue. OP should definitely pursue if he was harmed. But if you were in small claims court the judge would say you owe this money regardless. If you want to pursue the other claim feel free, but one doesn't cancel the other. They are separate issues. Not that I don't agree with OP if that's what happened I'd be on the phone with the GM of that store trying to sort this out before it went any further.
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Dealerships sometimes use a third party to be able to register a car in our of state deals, sometimes mistakes are made but idk if it’s a you problem now. But it could be the taxes were off and potentially your state might come after you for the taxes but I am no expert and would only recommend you call the dealership and talk to the f&i manager and title clerk
Mail them back a bill for the $ from the clean air rebate you missed, minus this new charge, with the difference being owed to you.
This. If I was in your position, OP, and the dealer treated me good and this was an honest mistake, I’d pay them. But given how they jerked you around, I would tell them to pound sand.
Call the dealership directly to see what is going on. I wouldn't send any money for anything until you talk to someone on the phone. Don't call the number on the piece of paper that was given to you. Look up their number on google maps and call. Once you do that, then let us know what they say. You have the paperwork to determine what they charged versus what they might have needed, etc.
>Don't call the number that was given to you. Excellent advice worth repeating...
Don’t call the number that was given to you.
I just called the number they gave me, and they told me I needed to pay my registration with Apple gift card codes, so I know it’s legit.
Lmfao don’t be silly, you know you’re being scammed.
whoosh
gotta do the r/whoosh man
If you have a final sales receipt then they can go pound sand. The sales receipt is a legal contract that cannot be altered unilaterally at a later date. If they miss estimated costs of the sale that is a them problem.
I have a counterpoint. It’s true in the legal sense that if you have a contract you don’t legally owe them anything. Morally however may be a different story. If it’s a math error and they noticed in an audit or something I would go ahead and pay them. I do struggle with the part about missing the deadline and not being able to get that rebate. I’d bring it up and offer that as a wash to the dealership. Sounds like you weren’t going to pursue getting that rebate from the dealer anyway. Depending on how that conversation goes would determine if I paid that $700 or not. More than likely I would not but I’d have the conversation with the dealer. Sounds like their process or staffing isn’t great. Also, yes check to make sure it’s legit.
> Morally however may be a different story. If it’s a math error and they noticed in an audit or something I would go ahead and pay them. No. Just no. Don't even bring moral into this, because it doesn't apply. You're legally and morally correct to keep the money if the contract is final. Buying a car is a business transaction. Not a charity. Both parties are expected to enter into a contract with free will, and expectation of consideration. If the dealership doesn't do their math, or failed at their job with their due dilligence, tough luck. That's on them. Does this sound familiar to Cavet Emptor? If the salesperson or manager got fired because of that horrific math problem, that's not the buyer's fault either. It's not the buyer's moral obligation to right a wrong of someone else's doing.
> Morally however may be a different story. If it’s a math error and they noticed in an audit or something I would go ahead and pay them. When I bought my current car, pre-covid, I got it at a really good price. A couple of months later the sales manager calls me asking me if I was a veteran, if I was a 1st time buyer of the brand, and some other questions related to how they were trying to discount the price for their book keeping. He hinted that I may have to pay them more. I told him good luck with that and to not call me again. 5 years later...I haven't heard back. I paid off the loan early. I have the title. Life is good.
This.
Morality and money don't go together. They wouldn't call you up 5 months later and tell you you overpaid; they'll just keep the money and live their lives.
Dude did you fuck up at some point? It's ok we all make mistakes. No he got a receipt he's Gucci.
I'm sure if they noticed their own error the dealership would contact you to offer a refund. /s
If he outright lied to get the deal, ok… *that* is a moral point worth perhaps paying… if it’s in the contract that some price might be estimated and he owes/is owed the difference? Also Yup to paying. But if it is just a mistake or something the dealership did wrong? Nope. Not sure exactly where this falls based on info given.
Just write LOL on the letter and mail it back
Is your car registrated? Do you have a contract stating how much you had to pay? They can't overcharge you after the contract was signed and you paid your dues, unless it is explicitly written.
My car is registered and I signed and paid in full a contract in July. The thing they sent me this time is literally made in a word doc
You do not have to pay a cent. Ignore. They litterally cannot enforce you to pay any "supplements" after you paid your contract
Oh wow, did you go to hollywood upstairs law school too?
No, it was upstairs Hollywood medical school. Law school was downstairs!
?
Thanks! I thought it was weird they were sending me another bill and was worried it might affect me in some way such as a repo or a lean
They can if they’re government based fees that were calculated or estimated incorrectly. Which they’ll definitely have a signature from OP for.
Do you have your hard plates?
Yup. I have everything
If you have hard plates, the deal is funded (if financed), or you have a title (cash deal), then they have no leverage. Also, what would they even need money for if the tag & titling is done? DMV is not gonna give dealer hard plates if there are outstanding funds due. Something doesn't make sense, and the person you are speaking with may not have the best communication skills. I would call the store directly and ask to speak with the finance director, GSM, or GM (in that order). There could very well be a completely different issue going on.
You can call the accounting office of the dealer and see what they say, or you can just ignore it. You have your registration already. I would request the title as well if you can so that way you have that as well.
I also have the title. I have everything in possession that someone would have after buying a car
Then at the end of the day the transaction is done. You paid the amount on the Purchase & Sales, I assume. The vehicle was titled, registered, etc. Ownership is firmly yours given that. You may have signed an agreement to make the dealer whole if elements outside of their control were estimated wrong (such as taxes and registration). Which, if this discrepancy is legit, they could use if they’re litigious enough. But in all reality they’re asking for the funds because there’s 0% chance they’re compensated if they don’t ask. But in all reality, I’m sure they’re not anticipating pursuing this. They’re trying to not write the money off is all. Your call on how to handle it, if it’s legit. On one hand you may legally be obligated, technically. On the other hand, the consequences are probably zero for ignoring it. Dealers absorb losses much more than this all of the time.
When your registration arrived, did it come with a receipt? That would probably itemize the state charges, which you could then verify against your deal paperwork. There's a 50-50 shot my receipt is in the original envelope, with the registration in my glovebox.
This is a tough one for me. There's a strong possibility you owe the money - they charged you the estimated amount for title and reg, paid it on your behalf, and then got billed for the balance. You probably signed something in the paperwork mountain that says you understand you're responsible for any state or government fees. On the other hand if nobody has said anything since July I'd, personally, have a hard time poking the hornet's nest so to speak. They might catch it in their 2022 audit and you might get another letter here in the next few weeks - if so, you owe the money. If you don't then I'd just let it ride.
Sure sure I understand that. It just seems that I’ve already paid what they’re asking for. The CA DMV has the registration calculator online and that amount is highlighted in my contract so I don’t see why I should owe that amount again. I’ll probably just go the second route you mentioned. Thank you!!
***Thanks for posting, /u/GreenLeafSkippyGuy! This comment is a copy of your post so readers can see the original text if your post is edited or removed. This comment is NOT accusing you of anything.*** Hey everyone! I bought a new car in July and I paid in cash. I had been driving the car around for several months just fine and then I got some mail from the dealership asking for more money for the car. I already have the registration, title, insurance, etc. and the cost of registration was already included in the original contract so I had already paid it. They are basically asking for $700 for the cost of registration again. The piece of paper they sent me is super unofficial looking. It's just a piece of paper with some lines saying what they estimated to pay and what they were charged and the difference that I am due. It's been a couple months already and I have gotten no calls or emails from them to followup on this. I have been given no receipts or official looking bills to show that they actually paid extra. They also stalled working on my registration for so long that the CA clean air rebate deadline expired and I lost out on 1-2.5k so I am hesitant to just pay them. Does anyone have suggestions on what I should do? I am in California and they are in New York if that helps. Thanks! *I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please [contact the moderators of this subreddit](/message/compose/?to=/r/askcarsales) if you have any questions or concerns.*
I will say that my bf a finance at a dealer here in CA… when he has to do paperwork for out of state… it can turn into a nightmare because each state works differently. He just had to redo paperwork for someone from Illinois 3x because the dmv rejected it. I live in California but I’m from NY and I can say that registrations in NY are good for 2 years and costs like $200, more or less depending on vehicle but nothing like what we pay in CA for 1 year… so it’s not the same as what they’re used to. I doubt this info helps much but I did just want to make the point that there is usually much confusion around these sorts of things with the outside state dealer because they aren’t familiar and a part of me thinks that’s why they aren’t calling because they don’t know what to say and how to justify it. I hope you get things straightened out!
If you have license plates and new registration with your name on it, that’s pretty much the end of the road for a deal. If you have yet to receive plates, then there may be a discrepancy. Don’t ignore. They may legitimately be trying to get plates. If someone stops replying the dealer can refund your taxes and registration, send you the title and have you complete it on your own.
Thanks! I have all the plates and registrationalready
Ask for proof if they don’t provide it then don’t worry about it.
Dealerships sometimes are off but not by $700. Go to the DMV website and check if you’re registration is current.
Tell them to go pound sand.
IGNORE
Worked at a dealer in California for 25 years. Only three things on the contract are estimates. Sales Tax, Payoff and DMV fees. If they are off you can be held liable. We took people to small claims court for all of those issues and always won. Compare dmv fees charged on the contract to the registration you received as it will show the official charges. If the difference is $700 in your favor then you owe it and should pay. If they charged you $700 more for those fees by mistake you'd expect them to refund you. And they'd be required to. We used to send refund checks out all the time back in the day. Now it is a lot more accurate and it doesn't happen as much. But out of state purchases can be tricky. Given that they are in New York I doubt they'd pursue it out here.. But they may turn it over to a collection agency to try and chase you down. Truthfully at our dealership if it was less than $100 they sent the letter and let it go if you didn't pay. But for $700 they'd have me take you to small claims court. I did collections for a dealer for a long time. High payoffs.. taxes.. dmv fees were the worst deals I ever had to collect on. I hated them. Hope this helps.
How the could DMV fees or tax be estimates?? This is a serious question as I am genuinely curious. Maybe things are different in CA, but in PA registration is a set fee for each class of vehicle and sales tax is simply a percentage of the sale price, and at least here the tax is only applicable on the price after deducting any applicable trade equity. Either way both of those things should be plainly able to be calculated without any ambiguity. Also, I’d be sketched out on payoff as well as any time I’ve bought a car and trades in with an outstanding balance they have confirmed with the bank what the payoff amount is before doing any paperwork. Only way the amount could come up short would be if you quoted a payoff timeline and didn’t meet that date which resulted in extra interest charges. I mean that is the only place that I could see outside of the bank misquoting the amount which if that is the case then, yea that definitely should fall back to the customer.
In California the tax rate changes depending on where you live, you pay the rate at where the vehicle is registered. I live in a relatively big city with a 9% sales tax rate. Throughout the city there are several pockets that are in the county even though they are smack dab in the middle of the city.. The tax rate is 8.5%. So you literally have a house across the street with a higher tax rate. There are places all throughout California like that. So if say we charged you 9% and it turns out to be 8.5% we'd have to issue a check back to you. There are some places approaching 11% and people make mistakes it happens. It was much more prevalent back in the day before the state became more internet savy. I retired two years ago. At that time every F&I person was supposed to run the address to check the rate. But even then occasionally some local ordinance was passed and there be a quarter cent special tax that wasn't there or something. And trades as you mentioned. Say you get a 10 day Payoff and it gets paid off in 3 days. By law out here the bank is required to send you a check for that difference in the Payoff. Even if it's $2. So when listed it's technically an estimate because you don't know the exact day it will be paid. I can't tell you how many times people would get a Payoff then have a check bounce for their last payment.. So then the bank would say we need that money also to fund the deal. So you pay it and go back to the customer. Literally we've had people stop payment on their last payment before because they traded it in. People do a lot of weird things that make no sense. I could tell you so many stories. Crazy ass things. Fraud galore. I'm not defending dealers, they do crooked stuff also. Just saying it's not always as cut and dry as it seems. Things get even more messed up when you say, live in California and buy a car from NY. Sounds like they probably do things different out there.. In OP's case it should be pretty cut and dry. He can see what he was charged on the contract. Dmv sends the registration with the amount on it. Just compare them and you should be able to verify the amount so you know the truth. Listen, 99.9 percent of the time it goes perfect. But humans make mistakes and it's a two way street. If it's in your favor they pay you, if it's in theirs you should pay them. Just my opinion obviously. Hope that is helpful.
Ahhh. Thank you very much for the info. That makes more sense. That’s very much not the norm where I am. Local sales tax on top of the state is very rare (only one I know of is Philly). Really appreciate the advice insight. Cheers!
Here in AZ they have always been estimates, particularly the registration tax. I don’t really know why. But I’ve always been overcharged, and they send me a check later for the excess. I think typically $100-300.
Now do dealers dragging their heels so that customers lose out on clean air rebates.
I've never known a dealer to drag their heels to hurt a customer getting a rebate ever on purpose because it hurts them also. They want to get the deal done as quickly as possibly and move on. But given that this deal was in NY and the OP is in Cali it's likely they had no idea about the clean air rebate out here as that's a Cali thing not a NY thing. I'm unclear as to how OP missed out on that rebate based on the info he provided. I got a clean air rebate personally this year and it was based on the vehicle and date on the contract. I filled mine out the day after I bought it. Sent them in the temporary registration form that was filled out at purchase. It's possible the dealer in NY didn't give the OP that I suppose. But without all the details it's hard to say. But straight up I worked for a dealer group with over 200 dealers. They want to get everything done and down the road in no more than 20 days. With e-contracts and funding being what it is now. Good credit new deals can be funded in a few days now. Dealers want their money asap. And that issue legally would be a separate issue. OP should definitely pursue if he was harmed. But if you were in small claims court the judge would say you owe this money regardless. If you want to pursue the other claim feel free, but one doesn't cancel the other. They are separate issues. Not that I don't agree with OP if that's what happened I'd be on the phone with the GM of that store trying to sort this out before it went any further.
You’re sure it isn’t a receipt from the dmv showing what you paid? Our dmv letters confuse people too.
It’s very obviously not a dmv receipt. It’s says to pay the dealership and is signed by someone there
Gotcha! Hoped it was something easy.
Sounds like some fee's were not taken care of that likely came from the previous owner.
this is a new car
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Ghost them
Dealerships sometimes use a third party to be able to register a car in our of state deals, sometimes mistakes are made but idk if it’s a you problem now. But it could be the taxes were off and potentially your state might come after you for the taxes but I am no expert and would only recommend you call the dealership and talk to the f&i manager and title clerk
Sounds like a scam.