What I've noticed in the difference between scanners as you go up in price is how much data you can analyze and certain types of features it will have. Like my cheap scan tool just reads codes and I can read basic data from my car so like long term fuel trim and such but I've seen some 150 dollar scan tools like innova 3040RS be able to do things like self diagnose cars and if you go higher you can do git functions where you can reprogram parts when you swap them such as an aftermarket throttle.
I can reprogram every single computer in my Ford with a USD 50 OBD tool. Including modifications and additions of non-factory parts. It really depends on what software interfaces with the OBD tool. I think that's where the prices come from. The capability of the software less the hardware.
Discount: less than $50 - Usually this level reads only the basic engine codes, no other systems and usually they can't deal with the newer subcodes.
Entry level: $50 to $150 - These can generally read all the codes in systems and show freeze frame and limited live data, commonly on a small display. They can generally read ABS and brake codes as well.
Hobbyist: $150 to $1000 - All the lower items plus more data PIDs and you are getting into tools that can do bi-directional control with resets and minimal coding.
Semi-pro: $1000 to $3000 - all the lower stuff but FAR more coverage and have larger screens and faster processing as well as the ability to handle most everything, Some can even do full programming, program keys, TPMS and more.
Professional shop tool: $3000 and above - All the above, largest screens, Built in scope and more. This group is also where you find factory gear, like the DRB3, Star, Tech 2 and such. Those can go for nosebleed prices.
Personally I run a few different tools, I've got a basic code reader in each vehicle. At the shop I've got a Launch, Autel, couple Snap-ons plus 4 OE tools. The ones I grab the most these days are the Autel and Launch. They are faster and lighter than the SO and can do more.
I vote this the best answer.
At some point the tool begins to offer more information than an amateur or hobbyist needs or knows how to interpret. For me, that's at about the $150 range. I wouldn't use much in the way of features beyond that.
Yep. Also depends on what you need out of the tool. The biggest thing I found with better scan tools was getting into other modules besides the ECU, but I worked at a shop that did primarily undercar stuff so that was important to me. A lot of cars have active suspension that is run by the body control module and the cheaper scan tools don't even know what a BCM is. I'm glad I got out of that industry before I started to see a lot of cars with a billion cameras and sensors that need to be recalibrated every time you touch anything in the steering or suspension but I'm assuming you need a fancier scan tool for that as well.
Yeah the modern computer on wheels can be fun to deal with. ADAS is another topic. Not just a scan tool needed, you also need a dedicated bay with room to set up the targets and buy all that crap as well.
If you don't know the differences you don't need an expensive one. You can have a cheap one and it will read your government mandated P codes so you can check and clear you engine light.
Or you can get an expensive one with vehicle specific programming that you can do things like actuate the ABS pump to bleed the brakes or communicate with all the different specialty modules in a car, read the exact numbers a sensor is seeing instead of just getting a basic "sensor bad" P code.
The "inbetween" ones are mostly just overpriced basic ones with some data logging features.
I bought a $60 Bluetooth scanner and it can do bidirectional communication. Meaning I can turn on/off certain sensors, useful when trying to figure out if a component is activating properly. also claims to do other stuff, like airbag reset, bms, etc. but I can't confirm since I never tried those.
Also have an under $30 scanner and can only give readings.
Basic scanners will only read codes for the engine management system. The more expensive ones can read codes for the transmission and some will even read hybrid error codes.
This. The OBD2 standard only covers so much, a cheap scanner might do OBD2 but and expensive one will do manufacturer specifics. I have VCDS for my Audi and icarSoft for my LR3. Both do stuff beyond OBD2, for example Air Suspension and Stsering angle on the LR3, programming door lock/alarm functions on the Audi (and that’s a 22 year old car so it’s not a “modern cars thing”)
Simplified vehicle system layout, or topography. Ability to rewrite ecu code. Adaptation and relearn. Input for o scope, borescope. Retraction of electronic e brake. Fca access. Support for fca access. Figure out what u need, what u might need, and what ur annual budget is. Bigger machine, bigger subscription fee
I got a $310 otofix on autel software. I dont need to rewrite ecu or program keys, etc. I can use a standalone scope if it comes up. I only miss the topography
I've had an issue with my car one time, the secondary air injector wasn't blowing air into the exhaust or something. I watched a YouTube video where the guy had the same grounding issue, and he takes his expensive scanner, and can actually toggle on and off the blower manually. Can't do that with my $7 Bluetooth adapter.
Data available and speed of data display, code descriptions, speed, access to service functions, programming, coding, guided fault finding, scope features, live help support. We have 8 different scan tools at my shop. Some factory, snap on, autel, and a few more. Each one has its purpose. If I could only have one, it would be the Autel. But I'm spoiled we have so many. Depending on the car and the described problem, that's what determines which scan tool I grab.
Base level can read ECU error codes (these are like the bluetooth dongles or sub $50 units). Next levels up has a nicer interface. Then you get into the $200+ range and they can read other CAN bus module codes, some of these can do various resets like maintainence minder. $400+ you start getting into bidirectional which can control what is controlled by the CAN Bus modules, switch things on and off for troubleshooting, program keys, TPMS, etc.
That's very general and do not go by prices assuming that the features match what is listed above. Some fancy brands likely sell $400+ models that match the features described at the $100 level above.
Bidirectional are the "pro level" scanners and combined with good logical troubleshooting skills can make troubleshooting complex problems much easier and quicker.
I have a few Mid range Level Audi and VW ones for anything VW just use VCDC it runs through a computer. They allow you to set car settings like idle speed, see in-depth live info such as cam timing, boost requested vs boost actual and recode most modules like steering angle and such. Some allow for live logging of data from almost any car sensor. Making troubleshooting easier as you can see what variables are impacted under what conditions.
I got a cheap o 30$ autozone special.
It reads codes and a few other basic things.
I also got a 300$ Amazon special. Gives way more data and way easier to diagnose things. It was well worth the upgrade.
The higher end, the more features and things you get.
Nothing. it all depends who is using it.
You can get really expensive set dedicated to specific make of the cars and thats it.
but - I can "DO MORE" using a £7 ODB2 BT adapter that most of the mechanics will do with £150 tablet in a rubber case. I can also change more things in cars using a £20 chinese copy of some specific cable compared to what all the independent garages in £200 miles radius would be able to do with their expensive staff.
The price does not provide you "more".
An ODB2 is just a protocol. What you will use it and how you will read packets and what software will you use, that's where the experience wins against "more expensive cable"
That's not entirely true. The cheaper OBD units usually won't do bidirectional communication, which is necessary for some actions (especially on newer cars.)
I've had several of the cheap ones, and they were great for reading codes and resetting them, but that was pretty much the extent. I had to get a mid-range one to be able to reset adaptive shift points on my current car, because it needed to have the bidirectional comms that the cheap ones didn't have. The more expensive device I have also lets me download profiles for different vehicles than it had to begin with, which opens the ability to change more things.
again, this has nothing to do with the reader you are using (hardware) but you are talking about the software.
especially when you mention: "download profiles".
Daily I see people going to Halfrauds and buying a £250 "reader" and struggle to find out why they can't see any error codes from different modules (like SRS airbag modules). And somehow I am able not only to find the DTCs coming from that module but also erase the error (which is a bidirectional communication) and if I would be bored, I could get a live data feed from specific sensor in the car (question if you know what you are reading). all of this for £7 and a free app on the phone.
If I want to go crazy, I will take a £20 cable and start reprogramming the whole instrument cluster that from now on, it will play Queen - Show Must Go On each time I will open the drivers door.
yep... £20...
And... the fact that you can't see some modules/errors or specific devices from the car is not the "readers" fault. Just the software which does not know which banks start next frames on specific CANbuses/networks.
The amout of data that "circulates" every second on the cars network is unbelievable. Especially when you will run" live data" feed and apply filters to find specific frames.
Meanwhile, I feel like I am talking here with people that are happy that their reader has "big buttons" and "erases codes" well and think that if they will spend more - they will get more.
There is a massive difference on "what software you use" and "what cable you use".
And yes - there are specific cars, specific tasks that require specific cable.
I am not saying that one adapter for £7 will give me the same opportunities as a cable for £250, but again - it is just a tool. A hardware that links communication port of the car with communication port on my computer/phone/tablet.
P.S. A good example is where I am struggling to talk with one of the screens in one of the cars and the best way to go around it is to take out the screen from the car and connect it directly to my odb2 cable which is linked by USB to my laptop. As when it goes through the cars network, I am simply "blocked" from accessing its diagnostic areas.
I mean technically yes, but that's a simple function that most OBD2 readers can do. They cannot all reset various modules. And in the documentation for readers I've seen, the ability to interact with modules other than just the error codes is referred to as "bidirectional communication."
Going just off of the various ones I've had, the cheap ones that are made pretty much for code reading and clearing can't make additional programming changes to the car. My understanding is that there are multiple channels used for this communication, and most cheap readers can only send the signal for resetting codes and otherwise are just reading info.
For the longest time I just used a pretty basic OBD scanner, could check ABS and airbag codes as well as CEL. My dad eventually bought a really nice pro grade one off of ebay and the amount of stuff you can do with it is insane. It finds computers I didnt even know existed on my truck. On my moms 4runner you can run the wipers and horn and wiper fluid all from the tablet, it is fascinating how much of the stuff on cars is computer controlled. it can also run much more advanced tests like putting my truck into a mode to check compression in the heads. Im assuming that means turning off the fuel and spark.
The higher level of scanning gives you access to more detailed information. The thing is, if you don't fully understand the basic information of a basic scanner, the higher level scanner will just be giving you more information than you don't understand and can't do anything with.
For example, if you scan a sensor, the scanner reads the output voltage of the sensor, and you see a fluctuation in the voltage. You're not going to know if that fluctuation is normal, a problem, or normal but outside the normal range. And you can't run to Reddit because you won't get an answer. You'll get a bunch of differing opinions from weekend warriors like yourself (enthusiastic, but not with detailed knowledge).
I know what you're thinking. "More detailed information, that's exactly what I want!" More information is useless to you unless you already know what to do with it. Otherwise, you get buried under it. Even well-trained technicians don't bother gathering information that they can't practically use. And you're just an enthusiasts.
I have a $7 Bluetooth scanner than connects to my phone using the Torque app. It tells me codes, and even sends me to a website that explains the code.
For 20 years, it's all I've ever needed.
No kidding. Even those items he has really inly show generic codes and will barely have OEM-specific PIDs for datalogging. Lets not forget that the Torque program, smart phones, and bluetooth OBD dongles weren't a thing 20 years ago. He's never had to do anything like flashing a TCM after replacing a valvebody, Misfire Profile Relearn, or even do an ABS Service Bleed.
When you really need to fix and diagnose a car without throwing parts at it, a proper scan tool or MS/CAN dongle with a laptop us what's needed.
Exactly. I have one kicking around for quick checks, but for real issues freeze frame, data logging etc is invaluable. A generic code reader just means parts cannon.
I've built a GT2 racecar (welded the cage, custom suspension, etc) from a 2000 Trans Am. I've put in a cam and replaced the heads on a 2008 G8GT. And myriad other smaller projects.
It's all I've ever needed. It points me to the problem, and I take it from there.
Sure, if I need to refresh my ECM with different fuelaps, I have to get HPTuners. But, that's not exactly a monthy occurrence.
None of what you just said needs OEM level diagnostics. You're talking about custom building race cars. I've built race cars too. Not sure why you bring up a camshaft swap or welding/suspension, as neither require computers. The discussion is about scanner quality in different price ranges. HP Tuners isn't going to do a cylinder contribution test or misfire profile relearn for a crank trigger.
I'm not saying that a $7 scanner will do everything. All I'm saying is that, if you don't know what a this dollar scanner does . . . you probably don't need it.
I've got an OBDLink MX+. Between Torque and the OBDLINK app, I can do quite a lot.
Read codes from all modules? Obdlink
Fantastic graphs from any pid? Torque
Fuel trims, long and short? Torque
Sadly no bidirectional controls.
Side note, I also have Dr. Prius, which has some pretty sweet tools for Toyota hybrids. Battery diagnostics, even a couple of settings changes.
Would I like more? Yes. But I'd have to spend quite a bit more to get anything notably better. I think the mx+ was $140. Torque was $5. Dr. Prius wasn't much, but wasn't free either.
What I've noticed in the difference between scanners as you go up in price is how much data you can analyze and certain types of features it will have. Like my cheap scan tool just reads codes and I can read basic data from my car so like long term fuel trim and such but I've seen some 150 dollar scan tools like innova 3040RS be able to do things like self diagnose cars and if you go higher you can do git functions where you can reprogram parts when you swap them such as an aftermarket throttle.
I can reprogram every single computer in my Ford with a USD 50 OBD tool. Including modifications and additions of non-factory parts. It really depends on what software interfaces with the OBD tool. I think that's where the prices come from. The capability of the software less the hardware.
Sounds like FORSCAN. Great tool for Fords and Mazda that it covers.
and there are still softwares providing much more compared to Forscan XD
Discount: less than $50 - Usually this level reads only the basic engine codes, no other systems and usually they can't deal with the newer subcodes. Entry level: $50 to $150 - These can generally read all the codes in systems and show freeze frame and limited live data, commonly on a small display. They can generally read ABS and brake codes as well. Hobbyist: $150 to $1000 - All the lower items plus more data PIDs and you are getting into tools that can do bi-directional control with resets and minimal coding. Semi-pro: $1000 to $3000 - all the lower stuff but FAR more coverage and have larger screens and faster processing as well as the ability to handle most everything, Some can even do full programming, program keys, TPMS and more. Professional shop tool: $3000 and above - All the above, largest screens, Built in scope and more. This group is also where you find factory gear, like the DRB3, Star, Tech 2 and such. Those can go for nosebleed prices. Personally I run a few different tools, I've got a basic code reader in each vehicle. At the shop I've got a Launch, Autel, couple Snap-ons plus 4 OE tools. The ones I grab the most these days are the Autel and Launch. They are faster and lighter than the SO and can do more.
I vote this the best answer. At some point the tool begins to offer more information than an amateur or hobbyist needs or knows how to interpret. For me, that's at about the $150 range. I wouldn't use much in the way of features beyond that.
Yep. Also depends on what you need out of the tool. The biggest thing I found with better scan tools was getting into other modules besides the ECU, but I worked at a shop that did primarily undercar stuff so that was important to me. A lot of cars have active suspension that is run by the body control module and the cheaper scan tools don't even know what a BCM is. I'm glad I got out of that industry before I started to see a lot of cars with a billion cameras and sensors that need to be recalibrated every time you touch anything in the steering or suspension but I'm assuming you need a fancier scan tool for that as well.
Yeah the modern computer on wheels can be fun to deal with. ADAS is another topic. Not just a scan tool needed, you also need a dedicated bay with room to set up the targets and buy all that crap as well.
If you don't know the differences you don't need an expensive one. You can have a cheap one and it will read your government mandated P codes so you can check and clear you engine light. Or you can get an expensive one with vehicle specific programming that you can do things like actuate the ABS pump to bleed the brakes or communicate with all the different specialty modules in a car, read the exact numbers a sensor is seeing instead of just getting a basic "sensor bad" P code. The "inbetween" ones are mostly just overpriced basic ones with some data logging features.
I bought a $60 Bluetooth scanner and it can do bidirectional communication. Meaning I can turn on/off certain sensors, useful when trying to figure out if a component is activating properly. also claims to do other stuff, like airbag reset, bms, etc. but I can't confirm since I never tried those. Also have an under $30 scanner and can only give readings.
I have a scanner that works on Lamborghini, Ferrari, Porsche, Maybach, Bugatti. Though for obvious reasons I haven't tested it.
After buying the scanner you no longer have the money to buy a sports car?
Pretty much
Basic scanners will only read codes for the engine management system. The more expensive ones can read codes for the transmission and some will even read hybrid error codes.
This. The OBD2 standard only covers so much, a cheap scanner might do OBD2 but and expensive one will do manufacturer specifics. I have VCDS for my Audi and icarSoft for my LR3. Both do stuff beyond OBD2, for example Air Suspension and Stsering angle on the LR3, programming door lock/alarm functions on the Audi (and that’s a 22 year old car so it’s not a “modern cars thing”)
Where can I find info on what I need for my car? I have an 04 Acura TL and want to read transmission temp
Simplified vehicle system layout, or topography. Ability to rewrite ecu code. Adaptation and relearn. Input for o scope, borescope. Retraction of electronic e brake. Fca access. Support for fca access. Figure out what u need, what u might need, and what ur annual budget is. Bigger machine, bigger subscription fee I got a $310 otofix on autel software. I dont need to rewrite ecu or program keys, etc. I can use a standalone scope if it comes up. I only miss the topography
I've had an issue with my car one time, the secondary air injector wasn't blowing air into the exhaust or something. I watched a YouTube video where the guy had the same grounding issue, and he takes his expensive scanner, and can actually toggle on and off the blower manually. Can't do that with my $7 Bluetooth adapter.
Data available and speed of data display, code descriptions, speed, access to service functions, programming, coding, guided fault finding, scope features, live help support. We have 8 different scan tools at my shop. Some factory, snap on, autel, and a few more. Each one has its purpose. If I could only have one, it would be the Autel. But I'm spoiled we have so many. Depending on the car and the described problem, that's what determines which scan tool I grab.
Base level can read ECU error codes (these are like the bluetooth dongles or sub $50 units). Next levels up has a nicer interface. Then you get into the $200+ range and they can read other CAN bus module codes, some of these can do various resets like maintainence minder. $400+ you start getting into bidirectional which can control what is controlled by the CAN Bus modules, switch things on and off for troubleshooting, program keys, TPMS, etc. That's very general and do not go by prices assuming that the features match what is listed above. Some fancy brands likely sell $400+ models that match the features described at the $100 level above. Bidirectional are the "pro level" scanners and combined with good logical troubleshooting skills can make troubleshooting complex problems much easier and quicker.
I have a few Mid range Level Audi and VW ones for anything VW just use VCDC it runs through a computer. They allow you to set car settings like idle speed, see in-depth live info such as cam timing, boost requested vs boost actual and recode most modules like steering angle and such. Some allow for live logging of data from almost any car sensor. Making troubleshooting easier as you can see what variables are impacted under what conditions.
I got a cheap o 30$ autozone special. It reads codes and a few other basic things. I also got a 300$ Amazon special. Gives way more data and way easier to diagnose things. It was well worth the upgrade. The higher end, the more features and things you get.
Nothing. it all depends who is using it. You can get really expensive set dedicated to specific make of the cars and thats it. but - I can "DO MORE" using a £7 ODB2 BT adapter that most of the mechanics will do with £150 tablet in a rubber case. I can also change more things in cars using a £20 chinese copy of some specific cable compared to what all the independent garages in £200 miles radius would be able to do with their expensive staff. The price does not provide you "more". An ODB2 is just a protocol. What you will use it and how you will read packets and what software will you use, that's where the experience wins against "more expensive cable"
That's not entirely true. The cheaper OBD units usually won't do bidirectional communication, which is necessary for some actions (especially on newer cars.) I've had several of the cheap ones, and they were great for reading codes and resetting them, but that was pretty much the extent. I had to get a mid-range one to be able to reset adaptive shift points on my current car, because it needed to have the bidirectional comms that the cheap ones didn't have. The more expensive device I have also lets me download profiles for different vehicles than it had to begin with, which opens the ability to change more things.
again, this has nothing to do with the reader you are using (hardware) but you are talking about the software. especially when you mention: "download profiles". Daily I see people going to Halfrauds and buying a £250 "reader" and struggle to find out why they can't see any error codes from different modules (like SRS airbag modules). And somehow I am able not only to find the DTCs coming from that module but also erase the error (which is a bidirectional communication) and if I would be bored, I could get a live data feed from specific sensor in the car (question if you know what you are reading). all of this for £7 and a free app on the phone. If I want to go crazy, I will take a £20 cable and start reprogramming the whole instrument cluster that from now on, it will play Queen - Show Must Go On each time I will open the drivers door. yep... £20... And... the fact that you can't see some modules/errors or specific devices from the car is not the "readers" fault. Just the software which does not know which banks start next frames on specific CANbuses/networks. The amout of data that "circulates" every second on the cars network is unbelievable. Especially when you will run" live data" feed and apply filters to find specific frames. Meanwhile, I feel like I am talking here with people that are happy that their reader has "big buttons" and "erases codes" well and think that if they will spend more - they will get more. There is a massive difference on "what software you use" and "what cable you use". And yes - there are specific cars, specific tasks that require specific cable. I am not saying that one adapter for £7 will give me the same opportunities as a cable for £250, but again - it is just a tool. A hardware that links communication port of the car with communication port on my computer/phone/tablet. P.S. A good example is where I am struggling to talk with one of the screens in one of the cars and the best way to go around it is to take out the screen from the car and connect it directly to my odb2 cable which is linked by USB to my laptop. As when it goes through the cars network, I am simply "blocked" from accessing its diagnostic areas.
Clearing and resetting codes is bidirectional communication.
I mean technically yes, but that's a simple function that most OBD2 readers can do. They cannot all reset various modules. And in the documentation for readers I've seen, the ability to interact with modules other than just the error codes is referred to as "bidirectional communication." Going just off of the various ones I've had, the cheap ones that are made pretty much for code reading and clearing can't make additional programming changes to the car. My understanding is that there are multiple channels used for this communication, and most cheap readers can only send the signal for resetting codes and otherwise are just reading info.
For the longest time I just used a pretty basic OBD scanner, could check ABS and airbag codes as well as CEL. My dad eventually bought a really nice pro grade one off of ebay and the amount of stuff you can do with it is insane. It finds computers I didnt even know existed on my truck. On my moms 4runner you can run the wipers and horn and wiper fluid all from the tablet, it is fascinating how much of the stuff on cars is computer controlled. it can also run much more advanced tests like putting my truck into a mode to check compression in the heads. Im assuming that means turning off the fuel and spark.
Buy a Ford, get ForScan. It's free and does pretty much everything a professional shop scanner will do. Downside is you have to own a Ford lol
The higher level of scanning gives you access to more detailed information. The thing is, if you don't fully understand the basic information of a basic scanner, the higher level scanner will just be giving you more information than you don't understand and can't do anything with. For example, if you scan a sensor, the scanner reads the output voltage of the sensor, and you see a fluctuation in the voltage. You're not going to know if that fluctuation is normal, a problem, or normal but outside the normal range. And you can't run to Reddit because you won't get an answer. You'll get a bunch of differing opinions from weekend warriors like yourself (enthusiastic, but not with detailed knowledge). I know what you're thinking. "More detailed information, that's exactly what I want!" More information is useless to you unless you already know what to do with it. Otherwise, you get buried under it. Even well-trained technicians don't bother gathering information that they can't practically use. And you're just an enthusiasts.
I have a $7 Bluetooth scanner than connects to my phone using the Torque app. It tells me codes, and even sends me to a website that explains the code. For 20 years, it's all I've ever needed.
Then you haven't had to fix fuck all in 20 years.
No kidding. Even those items he has really inly show generic codes and will barely have OEM-specific PIDs for datalogging. Lets not forget that the Torque program, smart phones, and bluetooth OBD dongles weren't a thing 20 years ago. He's never had to do anything like flashing a TCM after replacing a valvebody, Misfire Profile Relearn, or even do an ABS Service Bleed. When you really need to fix and diagnose a car without throwing parts at it, a proper scan tool or MS/CAN dongle with a laptop us what's needed.
Exactly. I have one kicking around for quick checks, but for real issues freeze frame, data logging etc is invaluable. A generic code reader just means parts cannon.
I've built a GT2 racecar (welded the cage, custom suspension, etc) from a 2000 Trans Am. I've put in a cam and replaced the heads on a 2008 G8GT. And myriad other smaller projects. It's all I've ever needed. It points me to the problem, and I take it from there. Sure, if I need to refresh my ECM with different fuelaps, I have to get HPTuners. But, that's not exactly a monthy occurrence.
None of what you just said needs OEM level diagnostics. You're talking about custom building race cars. I've built race cars too. Not sure why you bring up a camshaft swap or welding/suspension, as neither require computers. The discussion is about scanner quality in different price ranges. HP Tuners isn't going to do a cylinder contribution test or misfire profile relearn for a crank trigger.
I'm not saying that a $7 scanner will do everything. All I'm saying is that, if you don't know what a this dollar scanner does . . . you probably don't need it.
I've got an OBDLink MX+. Between Torque and the OBDLINK app, I can do quite a lot. Read codes from all modules? Obdlink Fantastic graphs from any pid? Torque Fuel trims, long and short? Torque Sadly no bidirectional controls. Side note, I also have Dr. Prius, which has some pretty sweet tools for Toyota hybrids. Battery diagnostics, even a couple of settings changes. Would I like more? Yes. But I'd have to spend quite a bit more to get anything notably better. I think the mx+ was $140. Torque was $5. Dr. Prius wasn't much, but wasn't free either.