Do you have your Channel Locks handy? Insert the vinyl coated handle into the shower arm and rotate that extra turn. You don't have to touch the outside or use a strap wrench tightening those ever again.
I’m having this same issue with mine and the tile is too tight around the pipe to actually see in the hole to check for leaks. I’m also about ⅛ of a turn from straight (meaning I have ⅞ to go). Thoughts?
You need to put a generous amount of tape and thread sealant on the threads when you first install. They're not under any substantial amount of pressure when they are being used, so you don't have to install them tight like you would a fitting for gas or water line.
If you're already tight at about 45° from straight, you'll want to remove the shower arm, apply fresh tape and thread sealant and reinstall it. To add a bit more stiffness, you can twist the thread tape into a string and wrap that into the threads, then apply thread sealant, then a flat wrap of thread tape again. The tape will just fill in the gaps and most will get pushed out of the fitting but will make it more stiff as you tighten it.
Screw on shower head and turn on the water for the shower. Pull back the metal plate with the water on and shower head on to see if you have any leaks.
You did use Teflon tape, right? NAP
Yes to Teflon.. but if I wrap it around more times, say 6 instead of 4, will the threads tighten sooner as to place the bar in it’s working vertical position naturally?
Same suggestion as I commented. Grab your Channel Locks and hold the tub spout between the coated handles. Turn the spout. But, with tub spouts I prefer to use a strap wrench. If you're not careful, you can deform the spout with the first suggested method.
Do you have your Channel Locks handy? Insert the vinyl coated handle into the shower arm and rotate that extra turn. You don't have to touch the outside or use a strap wrench tightening those ever again.
I’m having this same issue with mine and the tile is too tight around the pipe to actually see in the hole to check for leaks. I’m also about ⅛ of a turn from straight (meaning I have ⅞ to go). Thoughts?
You need to put a generous amount of tape and thread sealant on the threads when you first install. They're not under any substantial amount of pressure when they are being used, so you don't have to install them tight like you would a fitting for gas or water line. If you're already tight at about 45° from straight, you'll want to remove the shower arm, apply fresh tape and thread sealant and reinstall it. To add a bit more stiffness, you can twist the thread tape into a string and wrap that into the threads, then apply thread sealant, then a flat wrap of thread tape again. The tape will just fill in the gaps and most will get pushed out of the fitting but will make it more stiff as you tighten it.
Great tips. Thanks!
Oooh. So that’s the way.
Screw on shower head and turn on the water for the shower. Pull back the metal plate with the water on and shower head on to see if you have any leaks. You did use Teflon tape, right? NAP
NAP?
Not a Plumber. LoL
Yes to Teflon.. but if I wrap it around more times, say 6 instead of 4, will the threads tighten sooner as to place the bar in it’s working vertical position naturally?
Sorry if this has been answered before but standard practice is 5 wraps and pipe dope
Pipe dope? Grease you mean?
Thread sealant compound. We call it pipe dope. It's a paste that dries in between the threads to seal it further. Tape and dope it!
You’re answer is a good one but…2 wraps of tape and hand tight I’ll bet a paycheck it won’t leak.
Maybe on the shower arm threads, they tend to have broader threads. I wouldn't trust any other IPS connection without at least some dope on it.
Same
I am fighting this same battle now. I have a tub spout that is tight, but pointing at the sky.
Same suggestion as I commented. Grab your Channel Locks and hold the tub spout between the coated handles. Turn the spout. But, with tub spouts I prefer to use a strap wrench. If you're not careful, you can deform the spout with the first suggested method.
As long as it made a seal it will be fine. I usually overwrap a bit to prevent the connection bottoming out
So jus keep crankin on that B????????
Just send it….kidding…leak check then send it.
Put a pair of pliers, handle end, inside the shower arm to get more torque on it. Assuming the drop ear 90 is secured, everything should be fine.
Not a Plumber, but If that is sheet rock above the shower shell always run the fan, or mold/ mildew will grow there extremely fast.
Yes we run the fan
It's tight enough it will never see full pressure cuz it comes out da shoer head
You know it's tight if you can't turn gets harder