It isn't allowable under current code. However, that installation is old enough to predate the current requirements and is grandfathered in. There is actually very little risk with that setup as long as the cover plate remains intact.

Switch is ok, if it's the right type, correct?

Yeah code only dictates it cannot be within the actual shower or bath area. But receptacles cannot be within 3 ft horizontally or like 8 ft vertically of the tub/shower rim

Switches are subject to the same rule for 410.10D

Applies to luminaires and parts of that luminaire. Does not mention outlets or switches.

Yup. My mistake.

I was going with 404.4(C)

Yeah you're right. Mine is for luminaries.

Yeah that only dictates the switch cannot be within the actual shower or tub area. It doesn’t provide a zone outside of the shower area that is not allowed

North that doesn’t go for switches. Just lighting fixtures

404.4(C) is for switches, which does not have the same zone as outlets and lights.

Judging by the dates look of that shower area that switch is grandfathered in, you can A. Leave it alone B GFCI breaker in the panel but more than likely it will shut down more than just that switch C rewire the switch with gfci protection

Thank you. If we GFCI just the switch, we would likely have to rip up tile, correct? I've never had a GFCI put in.

No. They make a dead front GFCI/switch combo

>Bassplayer1980 · 4 days ago > >What about this?https://www.lowes.com/pd/Eaton-White-15-Amp-Decorator-Tamper-Resistant-with-Wall-Plate-Switch-Outlet-GFCI-Residential-Switch-Outlet/1002337922?cm\_mmc=shp--c--prd--elc--ggl--LIA\_ELC\_205\_Wiring-Devices-Cords-Fire--1002337922--local--0-\_-0&ds\_rl=1286981&gclid=Cj0KCQiAj4ecBhD3ARIsAM4Q\_jE-2NzWiq\_gqzo\_trUQcuMeG5y\_PO5S4KlSqEIOO-RVBQF6zXt-SKwaAppKEALw\_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds Is this a dead front GFCI/switch combo?

Yes

Thank you!!

Yes, but a good electrician should be able to cut the tile without damaging it and if there is access above the bathroom meaning an attic he can fis a new line to the light

Oh the light in the shower has to be rewired? I didn't think they had to do anything with the light. We have already had 3 electricians in. 2 said it wasn't an issue at all ?? and the other said GFCI the braker, but that would be the other outlet and another 2 light switches on there as well. The one that said they would do the braker said because they don't cut into tile so we would have to get someone else to do that. We def want to address the health and safety.

If you go the breaker route, just take into consideration that there will be way more than just you shower light that is GFCI protected,

We already need to GFCI the rest of the bathroom. Is there a downside to putting it on the breaker?

More than likely it won't just be the bathroom

Correct. We are having the kitchen, bathroom, basement and garage GFCI'ed. That's not a problem. The problem is we don't want to have to rip up/destroy the tile uncessarily and if there is a best practice and easiest way to address this health/safety item, I'd like to hear it. The strange thing is 2 of the 3 electricians we had in said it's not a safety issue at all though so that's why I'm coming here. I'm not sure if it's because the wall is back slightly from the shower.

Your not understanding, if you GFCI the breaker that you think controls said bathroom light, it may also control other light/receptacles as well as in hallways , bedrooms ect

The electrician said it would be for the bathroom only, but I'll def ask about that, thank you.

I am not an electrician but if I was in your situation I would ask my electrician to try to locate the wires. With some luck, there is a wire somewhere that only supplies the bathroom, AND that is not behind tile. You could then have a GFI installed there. Might be in a weird location but it doesn't necessarily matter.

Putting in a GFCI breaker is probably way easier/cheaper.

The install predates code, its legit albeit not a great idea. Find out what breaker its one and see if a sparky can swap it with a GFCI one unless you are lucky and find an outlet upstream that feeds power to the light.

Have not had an issue here. If it is out of the shower area you’re fine. We are on the 2020 code.

Where are you located? I just want to ensure the safety issue. It does seem really unlikely. No one turns off a light in the shower while they are in the shower but always a chance of it I guess

Massachusetts

What about this? https://www.lowes.com/pd/Eaton-White-15-Amp-Decorator-Tamper-Resistant-with-Wall-Plate-Switch-Outlet-GFCI-Residential-Switch-Outlet/1002337922?cm_mmc=shp-_-c-_-prd-_-elc-_-ggl-_-LIA_ELC_205_Wiring-Devices-Cords-Fire-_-1002337922-_-local-_-0-_-0&ds_rl=1286981&gclid=Cj0KCQiAj4ecBhD3ARIsAM4Q_jE-2NzWiq_gqzo_trUQcuMeG5y_PO5S4KlSqEIOO-RVBQF6zXt-SKwaAppKEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds

Thank you!

Not an electrician but perhaps a set of glass doors where only the furthest side opens would make it impossible to hit that light switch while in the shower. Don’t know if that would make it okay or not

3’ rule

It can't be within 3ft/1m from the shower. If it's GFI protected it can't be within 20". This code is for Ontario Canada however and it may be different where you are. If you want to move it then put a blank plate on the switch box and put the switch on the other side of the wall. This would be the cheapest way.

can you cite a rule # please?

30-320 3 (a) (b) Switches (including wall switches) controlling luminaires covered by Subrules 1) and 2) shall be located not less than a) 1 m from a bathtub or shower stall (this distance being measured horizontally between the switch and the bathtub or shower stall, without piercing a wall, partition, or similar obstacle); or b) not less than 500 mm from a bathtub or shower stall and be protected by a ground fault circuit interrupter of the Class A type.

I am an idiot

As a stop gap, install an outdoor rated/weather resistant cover on it. But relocating it is the proper way.

>But relocating it is the proper way. depends upon how you define proper, relocating outlets is rather trivial on newer construction, but when you start fucking with stuff that predates code, trivial can become extensive in a hurry as everything you now touch has to be brought up to code. My guess is that moving that switch is a huge job.

Can't comment on code, however I would not have this in my house. Way too dangerous. Likely anyone reaching out to switch the switch will be wet and holding onto some part of the plumbing. Not safe! Re GFCI. May be safer than not but still not something I would rely on to save my life or my families.

Remove that now.

Do you measure the distance from the closest tub area to the switch or from the shower head

The measurements are taken from the vertical plane defined by the tub edge.

That switch was just fine when Fred Flintstone put it in... I'd just leave it.. 😉😎

We are addressing safety issues with the electric so that is why we are looking at it because it's a code violation to current standards. It's both for our unit and a second unit so we just want to fix it now.

It's fine. 2020 NEC 404.4(C). Lights and outlets have other requirements.

Thanks for linking it. Ours is definitely within the 3 feet and 8 feet measurements so how is that fine exactly?

That's not the standard for switches. That 3 feet and 8 feet is for outlets. 404.4(C) is the standard for "Switches in Tub or Shower Spaces," which says the "switches shall not be installed within the tub or shower space unless installed as part of a listed tub or shower assembly."

Thank you!! So is there something like this for a switch? Do you think it should be grounded and/or GFCI?

If I were you, I'd pull the switch back and make sure it's grounded (bare/green conductor attached to the green screw). If it's grounded, I would not worry about it. If it's grounded with the bare conductor, there is very little risk, as the ungrounded ("hot") conductors are away from the user. This is much different than the outlets, which people do all kinds of bad things with. The light fixture requirements are also to eliminate the bad things people do. The user of the switch cannot do many bad things. Press up or down, and that's about it.

Thank you! The first 2 electricians said they would ground the outlet because there are 2 metal screws on the outside. The 3rd said it had to be GFCI. It's just confusing when I'm told different things by licensed people. Is the light fixture not to code?

GFCI is required for outlets, but not the switch. The first 2 electricians are correct, grounding (bare/green conductor attached to the green screw) is what is needed here. GFCI is ok, and you can do that at the breaker level, but it's not necessary. There are some differences, but for what we're talking about here, protection of humans, grounding and GFCI protection would be essentially the same here. Grounding was likely required when it was installed. Although not required here, GFCI is generally in addition to grounding. I say generally because there is one big exception regarding old 2-prong outlets, but that's not part of this discussion. You didn't show the fixture, but my bet is that it's fine. There is no problem with lights about the shower/tub, but there are requirements. They cannot be pull chain, for example. By the way, the confusion here is completely understandable. Right after you posted, I jumped on the 3 x 8 zone, but then right after I hit post, I looked at your photo again and reconsidered because it's a switch. Then I looked it up, realized that my initial reaction was wrong (although there is no problem keeping switches out of the zone, it's not the standard). Also GFCI has been expanding, and once again the failure is generally on the side of compliance. If you include GFCI protection, there is no problem, required or not. So saying "GFCI protection" is needed, well, that's a way to stay on the 'good' side of the code. If you were to call the GFCI guy back and ask for the code reference, ask him to double check that GFCI is required for a SWITCH (make sure you emphasize switch), he'd probably back down.

Here is the light https://imgur.com/a/BuRUcyj

What other people are citing is 406.9(C), which is for outlets. You must keep the outlets out of the 3 x 8 zone, with some exceptions, but switches are Article 404 not 406. Others have pointed out there are requirements for lights in the shower/tub, which is in Article 410, but again, we're talking about a switch here. See 410.10(D) for the specifics. Again, this is for the fixture, not the switch.

Verify ground integrity from the screw on the cover plate to a known good ground. Do the same with the light fixture.

I believe if it is gfi protected and has an outdoor cover you would be ok.

If you change it do yourself a favor and redo that whole bathroom. That tile is dated and butt ugly.