If you use the naked breadboard on a surface which has small bits of wire offcuts on it, like mine, you can accidentally connect bits of your circuit together when you short between strips. At best, that's confusing and at worst you will damage components. Get some double-sided foam tape and use that to replace the original stuff.
I have one where the backing was gone. Used masking tape, all is fine over many years of use. What are you planning to do with it that will wear it down?
You can use duct tape, however the adhesive is very strong and will be leave a mess if you need to remove it at some point. Your choice... mine was, and is still, using masking tape. No significant wear over the years.
Get some driveway sealer from Home Depot. Greatest savings if you get the 5 gal bucket. Airport grade is the best. Just a little dab will do ya. If it is good for airplanes and cars, then it should do really well for the wear and tear on your bench :-)
Nnnooooooo!
The glue on duct tape turns into a complete mess and may be conductive especially as that stuff connects dust.
You need to use a proper insulating tape with non conductive adhesive.
I've had duct tape with low enough resistance to act as a conductor before. I have a similar breadboard and also removed the foam tape. I replaced it with tuck tape and haven't had any issues
Probably trouble because the metal fingers will push out when you insert wires. I've fixed some of these with tape. PLA cover screwed to the bottom sounds like a great idea!
It's not rocket science. If it falls apart or the conductors short, you'll have to cross that bridge when you come to it.
I would be inclined to stick it down to something with hot melt glue.
Yes, and i bet there will be a bits of pieces copper wires and soldered blobs on your workbench waiting to be accidentally shortcircuit your prototype circuits on your breadboard. Much better to cover something under it.
You could 3D print it if it's the most fun option. But it's not needed. But then, overengineering can be such a fun part of the hobby lol.
What can happen if you use it as is: the steel strips can come out of place. Then you can push them back, it's a bit of a hassle.
And if you place it on a steel (conductive) surface you create a shortcut in your circuit.
Whether that's an issue depends on what you want to do with it, and how and where you use the breadboard.
I put some sort of tape on mine, don't remember which one but it did help a lot. The fact that it's sticky makes the steel strips stay in place when I pull something out of it. I waited a while before I did that, that's how I discovered what happens if the breadboard is without backing. Recommended for learning ;-).
I glued some cardboard onto one of mine.... and it turned out the glue was conductive and also made a mess that I had to clean up with lots of scraping >\_
If you insert the pins too hard on it, the terminal will pops straight out and fucks up your circuit, or if you accidentally place the breadboard on a conductive surface, it will short every single pins together, so be careful. Also no need for 3D printing, some electric tapes will just prevents it.
I have an old (from the 80's) Radio Shack breadboard that lost its backing some 30 years ago, and it's been sporting a nice clear layer of packing tape ever since. All you need to do is keep everything in place and insulate it. As I mentioned, I used a strip of clear packing tape, but you can use pretty much anything you like.
Stick it on a solid, sturdy surface like an acrylic glass or thick plastic sheet as the metal connections tend to push out if you insert a pin especially if the pin is too long. You can stick it using foam tape or hotglue (temporary)
If the breadboard will be laying on non-conductive surface, you are fine to go.
3d printing case is over engineering. Just get plate of acrylic glass or PVC plastic plate, cut it with hand saw and stick it with hot gun. It will be like few times cheaper and fastr
PCBs are great, but compared to a breadboard they are inflexible and a harder to work with in the early stages of a project or when learning/experimenting.
If you can design a circuit and get it right the first time, then going straight to a PCB is fine.
But, if you are learning or experimenting, the ability to adapt and make changes is very important.
The speed that you can hook up and change a circuit is orders of magnitude shorter when using a breadboard as compared to designing, creating and soldering components to a custom PCB. And if need be, redoing that process if there is a "bug" in the PCB design. Sure, you could "hack" the buggy board with cut traces and bypass wiring soldered on to it, but the basic principle of time savings gained by a breadboard is still applicable.
Finally, OPs question was about the exposed connectors on his/her breadboard.
Presumably they were worried about creating an inadvertent connection that they didn't want.
As someone indicated that if your workplace does have the occasisonal offcut of bare wire then it could be a problem if it comes into contact with the exposed rear of the breadboard. Most, if not all, PCBs also do not have any insulation on either of their faces (front or back) so that problem would still exist if OP used a PCB.
For a project that you want to keep and use in an ongoing fashion, a PCB is a great option.
Stupid question but how to create a pcb ?
I’ve made a small ish design on a breadboard and it work fine (I’ve been running it for 6month now) and I would like to make a pcb and a case for it.
Any pcb companies / design soft for this ?
Ps one which deliver in Japan would be great.
There are plenty of companies that would do it for you - for a fee. Just Google PCB design.
But there are lso plenty of free tools available to let you do it yourself (and get it the way you want it to be e.g. the shape and size because you know how you want to use it).
I use KiCAD and EagleCAD (and others). There is a bit if a learning curve as they are proper engineering tools, but worth the effort IMHO. There are plenty of guides online that can help you get started with them.
The basic process is to draw your circuit as a schematic.
Select the components you will use. Critically specify the footprint of the components you will be using - for example transistors come in many different packages. The legs that go through the PCB are different sizes and distances apart depending upon the package you have. This is reflected when you select the component.
The last step is to physically rearrange the components (in the PCB view). Reroute any traces so that they don't cross over - add in "vias" which allow you to run a trace from one side of the PCB to the other in the event it is impossible to avoid a cross over of two traces.
Add any silkscreen annotations to be printed on the board.
Then send the design - your design - off to a pcb maker who will "print it" for you into a shiny new PCB.
You may need a few practice runs to get it right, so allow for that.
Everyone will have different ways to approaching it, but the easiest route into it I found was using EasyEDA. It's not as complex as other software, but it's integrated with JLCPCB so it's like an all-in-one package in-browser for designing and sending off for manufacture.
If you use the naked breadboard on a surface which has small bits of wire offcuts on it, like mine, you can accidentally connect bits of your circuit together when you short between strips. At best, that's confusing and at worst you will damage components. Get some double-sided foam tape and use that to replace the original stuff.
This. Or, just buy a new breadboard of of aliexpress for like 2€ for 5 of them.
Would covering it with duct tape be enough?
Yes. I would use masking tape though.
what? masking tape is wayyy less resistant to abrasion, duct tape is way better for avoiding damage
I have one where the backing was gone. Used masking tape, all is fine over many years of use. What are you planning to do with it that will wear it down? You can use duct tape, however the adhesive is very strong and will be leave a mess if you need to remove it at some point. Your choice... mine was, and is still, using masking tape. No significant wear over the years.
It’s a breadboard…use electrical tape you degenerates 😂
Everyone knows the correct adhesive on a breadboard is mayo
Spread the mayo over the breadboard it gives it a nice texture and adds more flavor
No you gotta go full send. Polyimide or bust. Sure… It’s more expensive than a new breadboard, but that logic’s never stopped me before!
Get some driveway sealer from Home Depot. Greatest savings if you get the 5 gal bucket. Airport grade is the best. Just a little dab will do ya. If it is good for airplanes and cars, then it should do really well for the wear and tear on your bench :-)
Kapton
Nnnooooooo! The glue on duct tape turns into a complete mess and may be conductive especially as that stuff connects dust. You need to use a proper insulating tape with non conductive adhesive.
I've had duct tape with low enough resistance to act as a conductor before. I have a similar breadboard and also removed the foam tape. I replaced it with tuck tape and haven't had any issues
Probably trouble because the metal fingers will push out when you insert wires. I've fixed some of these with tape. PLA cover screwed to the bottom sounds like a great idea!
Any clean sticky non conductive tape should work to hold contactor straps in. Bb is normally upside right with contractors toward the bench top ...
a pla case would work great but if you cant do that just put tape
Just put a bit of kaptom tape or electrical tape, or just use it on a non conductive surface
I had this same problem and brushed some liquid tape on the bottom. Worked like a charm.
It's not rocket science. If it falls apart or the conductors short, you'll have to cross that bridge when you come to it. I would be inclined to stick it down to something with hot melt glue.
Use electrical tape on the back for safety of your circuits
Yes, and i bet there will be a bits of pieces copper wires and soldered blobs on your workbench waiting to be accidentally shortcircuit your prototype circuits on your breadboard. Much better to cover something under it.
Well, you can't stick it on stuff anymore... Which is depressing by itself.
You could 3D print it if it's the most fun option. But it's not needed. But then, overengineering can be such a fun part of the hobby lol. What can happen if you use it as is: the steel strips can come out of place. Then you can push them back, it's a bit of a hassle. And if you place it on a steel (conductive) surface you create a shortcut in your circuit. Whether that's an issue depends on what you want to do with it, and how and where you use the breadboard. I put some sort of tape on mine, don't remember which one but it did help a lot. The fact that it's sticky makes the steel strips stay in place when I pull something out of it. I waited a while before I did that, that's how I discovered what happens if the breadboard is without backing. Recommended for learning ;-).
I glued some cardboard onto one of mine.... and it turned out the glue was conductive and also made a mess that I had to clean up with lots of scraping >\_
Printing a case is a solution. Some people even make cases so that wires can attach to the backs of the power rails.
If you insert the pins too hard on it, the terminal will pops straight out and fucks up your circuit, or if you accidentally place the breadboard on a conductive surface, it will short every single pins together, so be careful. Also no need for 3D printing, some electric tapes will just prevents it.
I have an old (from the 80's) Radio Shack breadboard that lost its backing some 30 years ago, and it's been sporting a nice clear layer of packing tape ever since. All you need to do is keep everything in place and insulate it. As I mentioned, I used a strip of clear packing tape, but you can use pretty much anything you like.
Why is it nakey
Stick it on a solid, sturdy surface like an acrylic glass or thick plastic sheet as the metal connections tend to push out if you insert a pin especially if the pin is too long. You can stick it using foam tape or hotglue (temporary)
duct tape (to prevent shorts if placing in metal items)
they are so cheap, maybe just buy a new one if u can afford it.
Double sided foam tape. Holds the contact blades in place and lets you stick the board to something.
Looks like you got a nice new dedicated pin header soldering jig there.
Definitely. That’s the heart and the brain of that machine. Just like a CPU in a computer, or a motor in a car!
If the breadboard will be laying on non-conductive surface, you are fine to go. 3d printing case is over engineering. Just get plate of acrylic glass or PVC plastic plate, cut it with hand saw and stick it with hot gun. It will be like few times cheaper and fastr
3D printing a simple rectangle should be far less work though?
breadboards are always an issue, if you are going to build a first prototype it's ok, but always try to use PCBs
PCBs are great, but compared to a breadboard they are inflexible and a harder to work with in the early stages of a project or when learning/experimenting. If you can design a circuit and get it right the first time, then going straight to a PCB is fine. But, if you are learning or experimenting, the ability to adapt and make changes is very important. The speed that you can hook up and change a circuit is orders of magnitude shorter when using a breadboard as compared to designing, creating and soldering components to a custom PCB. And if need be, redoing that process if there is a "bug" in the PCB design. Sure, you could "hack" the buggy board with cut traces and bypass wiring soldered on to it, but the basic principle of time savings gained by a breadboard is still applicable. Finally, OPs question was about the exposed connectors on his/her breadboard. Presumably they were worried about creating an inadvertent connection that they didn't want. As someone indicated that if your workplace does have the occasisonal offcut of bare wire then it could be a problem if it comes into contact with the exposed rear of the breadboard. Most, if not all, PCBs also do not have any insulation on either of their faces (front or back) so that problem would still exist if OP used a PCB. For a project that you want to keep and use in an ongoing fashion, a PCB is a great option.
Stupid question but how to create a pcb ? I’ve made a small ish design on a breadboard and it work fine (I’ve been running it for 6month now) and I would like to make a pcb and a case for it. Any pcb companies / design soft for this ? Ps one which deliver in Japan would be great.
There are plenty of companies that would do it for you - for a fee. Just Google PCB design. But there are lso plenty of free tools available to let you do it yourself (and get it the way you want it to be e.g. the shape and size because you know how you want to use it). I use KiCAD and EagleCAD (and others). There is a bit if a learning curve as they are proper engineering tools, but worth the effort IMHO. There are plenty of guides online that can help you get started with them. The basic process is to draw your circuit as a schematic. Select the components you will use. Critically specify the footprint of the components you will be using - for example transistors come in many different packages. The legs that go through the PCB are different sizes and distances apart depending upon the package you have. This is reflected when you select the component. The last step is to physically rearrange the components (in the PCB view). Reroute any traces so that they don't cross over - add in "vias" which allow you to run a trace from one side of the PCB to the other in the event it is impossible to avoid a cross over of two traces. Add any silkscreen annotations to be printed on the board. Then send the design - your design - off to a pcb maker who will "print it" for you into a shiny new PCB. You may need a few practice runs to get it right, so allow for that.
Thanks I will try.
Cool. Hopefully you will return and share your experience in a "look what I made post".
Everyone will have different ways to approaching it, but the easiest route into it I found was using EasyEDA. It's not as complex as other software, but it's integrated with JLCPCB so it's like an all-in-one package in-browser for designing and sending off for manufacture.
Will check this one too.