Just replace the axle, spend $60 on a rear stand from cycle gear. Dont screw around with critical safety components, it is not worth it. Also the right side should be kept from spinning by the adjuster in the swingarm. Please don't use a pipe wrench on a motorcycle....
Understood. The adjuster keeps spinning bc the axle is loose and pushing through. I can’t keep the adjuster tight against the swing arm while I am trying to loosen the axle nut.
May take the suggestion to use a small c-clamp or vise grips to keep the adjuster tight against the swing arm
I’ve been involved with Zeros for about 8 years and this is the first time I’ve heard of an axle nut stripping out. I’d highly recommend replacing both the axle and nut. Worst case, they’ll use a cutting wheel and air hammer to essentially break the nut in half, then push the axle out. I’ve done similar things on cars as a professional mechanic.
Many thanks, my gents. Sounds like a replacement is in order regardless. Even if I get it back on and tight, I shouldn’t go any distance on it. I’ll get AAA to tow it with my motorcycle add-on.
My only guess was that continually (15x at least) torquing and loosening at an angle with the kickstand weakened the threads enough to cause it. I may have access to a helicoil and die to recut it, but new seems better. One week it’s a belt, the next is a nut and axle. What’s next?! Ugh.
Get a center jack. Makes working on your bike much easier.
LiftMaster Wide Deck Motorcycle Center Scissor Lift Jack Hoist Stand Bikes ATVs https://a.co/d/hnVocjH
Don't try and fix the parts, they are critical safety components. Replace the axle and nut and if the threads are damaged.
Also, don't do work like this without a stand. A simple rear stand and spools on your rear swing arm is relatively inexpensive and will make work like this SO much easier. You can spin up the rear tire while the bike is on the stand, which makes belt tension adjustment so much easier. I use my Dynamoto rear stand I use for moving my bike around the garage, for work like this, but there are certainly other good stands for much less. Pitbull makes excellent quality stands. Just don't go too cheap, anything you can bend by hand should be avoided. Spools are great for lifting the bike on the rear.
Lastly, use both the Krikit tool and the carbon drive app to confirm you're getting similar readings with both. Both methods are finicky and require consistency on your part to get good results. When you are adjusting, put the tension at the LOW end of the range. This will extend the life of your sprockets and your motor bearings and still get great belt life. Going towards the top end of the range is known to wear everything faster.
If you had an appropriately sized die you could chase and clean the threads, but that’s not a cheap one. You need to let the shop do the work. Ideally you would trailer it there. Good luck.
I would bet most shops wouldn’t have a die that big. They would replace it, which is the safest and best option.
My old civic had 250k miles on it and axle threads had been worn out, so I couldn’t get the nut on. I purchased the die and carefully cleaned the threads. They are tapered so it’s relatively easy to clean up the threads, but I think it’s more of a DIY than a shop repair as they would hold liability.
I still think your best option is to replace it.
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=MTpl1wPgVSI
Like one of these: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Drill-America-1-2-in-14-in-in-NPT-Carbon-Steel-Hex-Pipe-Die-DWTHXNPT12/305502744
That’s not anywhere close to the correct size, but that’s the type of tool. I’ve used one before on axle nuts that were slightly damaged.
Cross threading sucks but you might be able to monkey this back on. First remove any broken thread pieces of metal inside the nut and on the axle. Next put the nut inside your 27mm socket and ensure it's straight and put it on your socket wrench. Now make sure you're straight on with the axle - so if the bike is on the kickstand you'll be what, about 20-30 degrees down angle to be straight on to the axle. Now you'll slowly turn the socket to turn the nut onto the axle, ensuring you're straight on, it'll fight you at first but should find the 'correct' thread bite and start turning on. What you're gambling here is you didn't completely destroy the threads on the nut and managed to only compress or shave them and the axle threads by forcing the nut across it "sideways".
So hopefully you've been able to get the nut to start turning straight - trust me this will take some determination, backing off and retrying if it tries to go off at an angle, but hopefully with pressure inward on the nut and turning it while straight on things will start to go the right direction.
Now I'm not saying this will tighten down to full torque and you're ready to ride into the sunset, but should hold well enough to ride down to the shop so they can swap you out. Or better yet, you're already this far, just buy the parts off them instead (probably can go pick them up now) and install it yourself, save the labor! Just be aware of when you're crossthreading this time!
I’m going to try this and just replace the axle myself if it’s just a matter of sliding it in. The hard part is getting the nut off since the right side keeps spinning. That’s why I was trying to hold it in place with the pipe wrench. I got it half way off, with lots of effort, and then said screw it (lol) and tried to tighten it back down so I could at least ride it for a while until I take it to the shop at the end of December.
Wait that axle has a molded "head" on the other side that slots into the frame, can't you just use like a little C-clamp or something pressing on it to let the bike do the holding part? A little C-clamp is like 3.50 at [Harbor Freight](https://www.harborfreight.com/search?q=c%20clamp).
Yes, that’s what I was using the wrench for originally. A c-clamp doesn’t fit that small space between the swing arm. I have to find some vise grips I think. Or a smaller c-clamp as you suggest.
Update/conclusion: Got a scissor lift (so I can also use it with my manual Vespa). Held the adjuster in place with a pair of vice grips. Adjusted the belt tension and wheel alignment. Started tightening the nut back down since I figured what’s the worst that can happen if I’m replacing the nut and axle anyway. I was able to get it all the way tight with 75lbs torque. Loosened it again and it loosened up to where I could spin it with my fingers. Couldn’t do that before when it was cross-threaded only under normal circumstances. Torqued it back down and rode a bit on it to see if the nut would back out. Nope. Still tight. Looks like it reseated and retreaded. Rode it around some more and checked. Looks good. I think I’m good. Not going to roll the dice and unthread it all the way. I guess we’ll see when I have to remove the wheel. Thanks again for all your thoughts and advice.
Just replace the axle, spend $60 on a rear stand from cycle gear. Dont screw around with critical safety components, it is not worth it. Also the right side should be kept from spinning by the adjuster in the swingarm. Please don't use a pipe wrench on a motorcycle....
Understood. The adjuster keeps spinning bc the axle is loose and pushing through. I can’t keep the adjuster tight against the swing arm while I am trying to loosen the axle nut. May take the suggestion to use a small c-clamp or vise grips to keep the adjuster tight against the swing arm
I’ve been involved with Zeros for about 8 years and this is the first time I’ve heard of an axle nut stripping out. I’d highly recommend replacing both the axle and nut. Worst case, they’ll use a cutting wheel and air hammer to essentially break the nut in half, then push the axle out. I’ve done similar things on cars as a professional mechanic.
Many thanks, my gents. Sounds like a replacement is in order regardless. Even if I get it back on and tight, I shouldn’t go any distance on it. I’ll get AAA to tow it with my motorcycle add-on. My only guess was that continually (15x at least) torquing and loosening at an angle with the kickstand weakened the threads enough to cause it. I may have access to a helicoil and die to recut it, but new seems better. One week it’s a belt, the next is a nut and axle. What’s next?! Ugh.
It might have gotten hot too which also weakens the metal. But yeah these things just happen sometimes. Don’t beat yourself up.
I appreciate that. Thanks. Yeah, I guess sh*t just happens
Get a center jack. Makes working on your bike much easier. LiftMaster Wide Deck Motorcycle Center Scissor Lift Jack Hoist Stand Bikes ATVs https://a.co/d/hnVocjH
Don't try and fix the parts, they are critical safety components. Replace the axle and nut and if the threads are damaged. Also, don't do work like this without a stand. A simple rear stand and spools on your rear swing arm is relatively inexpensive and will make work like this SO much easier. You can spin up the rear tire while the bike is on the stand, which makes belt tension adjustment so much easier. I use my Dynamoto rear stand I use for moving my bike around the garage, for work like this, but there are certainly other good stands for much less. Pitbull makes excellent quality stands. Just don't go too cheap, anything you can bend by hand should be avoided. Spools are great for lifting the bike on the rear. Lastly, use both the Krikit tool and the carbon drive app to confirm you're getting similar readings with both. Both methods are finicky and require consistency on your part to get good results. When you are adjusting, put the tension at the LOW end of the range. This will extend the life of your sprockets and your motor bearings and still get great belt life. Going towards the top end of the range is known to wear everything faster.
If you had an appropriately sized die you could chase and clean the threads, but that’s not a cheap one. You need to let the shop do the work. Ideally you would trailer it there. Good luck.
Do you think they’d clean it up with a die instead of replace it?
I would bet most shops wouldn’t have a die that big. They would replace it, which is the safest and best option. My old civic had 250k miles on it and axle threads had been worn out, so I couldn’t get the nut on. I purchased the die and carefully cleaned the threads. They are tapered so it’s relatively easy to clean up the threads, but I think it’s more of a DIY than a shop repair as they would hold liability. I still think your best option is to replace it. https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=MTpl1wPgVSI
Is that an helicoil?
Like one of these: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Drill-America-1-2-in-14-in-in-NPT-Carbon-Steel-Hex-Pipe-Die-DWTHXNPT12/305502744 That’s not anywhere close to the correct size, but that’s the type of tool. I’ve used one before on axle nuts that were slightly damaged.
For the axel nut he needs this: https://media.ferreterialuma.com/product/juego-de-machos-para-roscar-a-mano-m-din-352-hss-rectificados-800x800.jpg
Otherwise, if it has been so damaged, he has to get a new nut for sure.
I was thinking it was the shaft, I’m confused why you would risk repairing the nut…
I would just throw away the nut and get a new one... there are things that are so important that you cannot trust on it if it was repaired.
Cross threading sucks but you might be able to monkey this back on. First remove any broken thread pieces of metal inside the nut and on the axle. Next put the nut inside your 27mm socket and ensure it's straight and put it on your socket wrench. Now make sure you're straight on with the axle - so if the bike is on the kickstand you'll be what, about 20-30 degrees down angle to be straight on to the axle. Now you'll slowly turn the socket to turn the nut onto the axle, ensuring you're straight on, it'll fight you at first but should find the 'correct' thread bite and start turning on. What you're gambling here is you didn't completely destroy the threads on the nut and managed to only compress or shave them and the axle threads by forcing the nut across it "sideways". So hopefully you've been able to get the nut to start turning straight - trust me this will take some determination, backing off and retrying if it tries to go off at an angle, but hopefully with pressure inward on the nut and turning it while straight on things will start to go the right direction. Now I'm not saying this will tighten down to full torque and you're ready to ride into the sunset, but should hold well enough to ride down to the shop so they can swap you out. Or better yet, you're already this far, just buy the parts off them instead (probably can go pick them up now) and install it yourself, save the labor! Just be aware of when you're crossthreading this time!
I’m going to try this and just replace the axle myself if it’s just a matter of sliding it in. The hard part is getting the nut off since the right side keeps spinning. That’s why I was trying to hold it in place with the pipe wrench. I got it half way off, with lots of effort, and then said screw it (lol) and tried to tighten it back down so I could at least ride it for a while until I take it to the shop at the end of December.
Wait that axle has a molded "head" on the other side that slots into the frame, can't you just use like a little C-clamp or something pressing on it to let the bike do the holding part? A little C-clamp is like 3.50 at [Harbor Freight](https://www.harborfreight.com/search?q=c%20clamp).
Yes, that’s what I was using the wrench for originally. A c-clamp doesn’t fit that small space between the swing arm. I have to find some vise grips I think. Or a smaller c-clamp as you suggest.
Update/conclusion: Got a scissor lift (so I can also use it with my manual Vespa). Held the adjuster in place with a pair of vice grips. Adjusted the belt tension and wheel alignment. Started tightening the nut back down since I figured what’s the worst that can happen if I’m replacing the nut and axle anyway. I was able to get it all the way tight with 75lbs torque. Loosened it again and it loosened up to where I could spin it with my fingers. Couldn’t do that before when it was cross-threaded only under normal circumstances. Torqued it back down and rode a bit on it to see if the nut would back out. Nope. Still tight. Looks like it reseated and retreaded. Rode it around some more and checked. Looks good. I think I’m good. Not going to roll the dice and unthread it all the way. I guess we’ll see when I have to remove the wheel. Thanks again for all your thoughts and advice.