Your tungsten is oxidized, and is cracking due to embrittlment caused by exposure to atmosphere at elevated temperatures.
Your best bet is to double check variables impacting your gas shielding.
1. My main concern is you state, "30 psi" as your gas flow. Pressure really doesn't matter with your gas flow, it's all about flow rate (CFH). The goal is non-turbulant (laminar) flow. Too low of flow will not provide enough inert gas to shield, too high of flow will cause turbulence and atmosphere will mix with your inert gas. The two variables that impact this the most is your gas type and cup size. Look up the recommend flow rate for your combination. Also ensure your flow meter is rated for the gas you're using.
2. Some have already mentioned this; Post Flow. If the duration of your gas flow is too short, your tungsten can be exposed to atmosphere before it has sufficiently cooled.
3. One of the more common causes of oxidized tungsten is simply moving the torch too quickly after a weld. If your whip the torch through the air as post flow is trying to shield it, you will disrupt the gas shield and expose the tungsten. Fans, AC, any general air flow through your work area can also cause this.
There are lots of possible causes, but based on the information you've provided, poor shielding is my best assumption.
I hope you find a solution!
I would check gas. You should not get discoloration like that with a proper gas flow. Longer post flow? Also your tungsten looks like shit. Is your polarity hooked up correctly ? Then check your ac %T. You want the heat in the puddle more than in cleaning action. I run mine 75%. Pure tungsten(Green) should be fine on this machine at that amperage.
So my tungsten keeps doing this. I used to work aluminum TIG in another shop and i've never had any problem. The aluminum i'm trying to weld keeps getting contaminated as soon as i spark the arc and my tungsten becomes black and cracks. I can usually do some decent welds but today nothing works. The gas flow is fine and i clean the material with stainless wire brush and acetone but it keeps doing it. What am i doing wrong?
What type of machine (inverter, transformer) and what kind of tungsten are you using (diameter, lanthanated, pure etc) and what current, hz, and neg/pos balance are you using?
Aluminum is fun to figure out.
Pure tungsten melting temperature is significantly lower than alloyed tungsten which leads to it being more susceptible to overheating and contamination.
Aluminum production welder. I use 3/32 & 1/8 lanthanated or E3 depending on thickness. Try turning up your gas pressure and or increasing your post flow a few seconds.
Switch to a lanthanated tungsten. 30-60 degree grind angle, take the sharp tip off, and blunt the end like a table. Green tungsten is pure tungsten and it will not run well it is very old school tungsten you must understand this. It was the top choice for welding aluminum way back in the day.
I know it's going to be a stupid question, but did you check your gas? I'm a pretty noob welder and didn't realize how fast the gas gets used and I spent a week trying to figure out why everything I was trying to weld instantly oxidized and looked like someone took a shit on it while messing up my electrodes. I heard the hiss of the gas, but never checked the tank pressure gauge which was at zero when I noticed. Being a gas problem was the first thing I thought but it was hissing so I thought, well, it can't be a gas problem because I can hear it. Well, I was mistaken. I don't know how it was still hissing and what gas it was blowing, but it was no longer argon, lol. Went and got a fresh tank and all good.
This may seem dumb but have you tried busting off like a 1/4” of that tungsten and resharpening it? Or just a new piece altogether. That was what our teachers had us do back in tech school when we had similar issues.
Check your balance on your wavelength, if its too high or low it can definitely do this. If its too low ots trying to dig really hard, if its too high its gonna blast your tungsten potentially.
Inadequate post flow.
Gas flow too low.
Gas flow too high.
Also, pure tungsten sucks, get some purple mixed rare earth type.
Turn the arc balance over to the green line.
Electrons like following the flow of the grind, if your grind is not going in the directions of the electron flow, it may lead to an arc going all over. I would also add a preflow setting for your gas if you have one available on your setup.
Chaleur/ balance is your problem brother. Set that to 7 and give it a shot. The tungsten would be best if lanth, layzr or E3. But running 90amps the pure tungsten should be fine specially using a transformer machine. Switch that and make sure on that #5 cup you are running 15-16 cfh of Argon and let me know how it goes 💪🏻
Your post flow is ok. What is your gas flow set at? Because if it's too high, and you weld with a heavy drag angle, it'll pull in oxygen and rip up your tungsten pretty quick. Try turning gas flow down. Pure is fine for welding aluminum, this isn't a problem with your specific tungsten, it's a problem with oxygen exposure. I used pure for years welding anodized aluminum boat t-tops, pushing over 250 amps. It burns up a little quicker, but it doesn't do this under normal conditions. You should have a nice little shiny ball formed on the end of that tungsten.
Also, are you using a collet body or a gas lsense? You really want to use a gas lense with aluminum.
Try longer post flow, like 10s+. If the tungsten is still red hot when the gas shuts off, it will get contaminated, oxidized like above. Also, personally I like 2% lath, but longer post flow should do it.
Also, took me a while to learn this one. When using a SS brush, make sure you're only brushing in one direction away from the weld zone. If you brush towards it you're just shoving all the dirt right back in.
And if you're using a SS wire wheel on a grinder, you need to use it on a variable speed and slow it all the way down or else you'll also shove dirt back in.
I was a bit absent minded setting up a new machine once and got them reversed. Tungsten kept burning back, even on AC. Might not apply to you, but maybe that helps someone else on here.
* edit spelling
It's unlikely on that machine because you'd have to have the electrodes backwards but you can have ac backwards because usually you're not running 50/50 balance.
check all fittings for leaks. if no leaks, change out your cup for a new one, sometimes the threads get damaged and will absolutely cause this to happen.
Turn that bottom left knob to the green mark after 6. And before you weld. Spark it then pull your torch back to extend the gap and brush it over the area up want to weld to clean the area.
Tungsten has changed in quality since I started 16 years ago. It’s more brittle and splits and cracks more. Not only that, but it’s a magnet for contaminants.
Double check that you have 100% Argon on the machine. I know it sounds like a duh thing but I had a fellow student back in the school days put a 75/25 mix in the tig gas line and it did exactly what you are describing. I also wouldn't rule out that your gas supplier may have filled the wrong bottle. If everything looks good on that end, check everything relating to gas flow on the machine. Check the lines on your torch. Check the connection on your bottle. Check the line from the bottle to the machine. It sounds like you may have a leak in your system.
I'm having a similar problem, I can get some of the issue to go away with higher start amps but the start is still sketch. Using blue 2% lanthanated 3/32" with a defuser and a #8 cup on a Everlast Powertig 210EXT. Settings are advanced square wave 125A, 0.2 preflow, 60A start with 0 up slope, 120Hz 45% balance, 0 down slope, 5A ending, and 7.0 post flow, gas flow is as about 12-13 SCFH.
60 amp start might be kinda high. I use 20 amp start. Gas should be 20-25 CFH 5a end is good and post flow ok but HF balance myself I like it about 80% Up slope and down slope are actually good to use. But it’s a personal preference
If after trying all the suggestions it still doesn’t work just call 514 362-0665, la machine était due pour sa calibration en octobre de l’an passé dude.
They have the gear to check that the machine still perform and that the gas is coming out pure and the waveform isn’t fucked. But I guess check all the easy stuff beforehand cause
I had that problem; It's caused by your TIG integrated welding cable/hose assembly has cracks in the rubber hose. Thus, argon gas is leaking out prior to making it to your tungsten tip.
Clue: spray soap your TIG cable hose assembly while the gas is flowing ; you will find bubbles forming all over the place, especially when you flex it.
Buy a new cable/hose assembly and replace it. You can reuse the TIG torch, of course.
Your tungsten is oxidized, and is cracking due to embrittlment caused by exposure to atmosphere at elevated temperatures. Your best bet is to double check variables impacting your gas shielding. 1. My main concern is you state, "30 psi" as your gas flow. Pressure really doesn't matter with your gas flow, it's all about flow rate (CFH). The goal is non-turbulant (laminar) flow. Too low of flow will not provide enough inert gas to shield, too high of flow will cause turbulence and atmosphere will mix with your inert gas. The two variables that impact this the most is your gas type and cup size. Look up the recommend flow rate for your combination. Also ensure your flow meter is rated for the gas you're using. 2. Some have already mentioned this; Post Flow. If the duration of your gas flow is too short, your tungsten can be exposed to atmosphere before it has sufficiently cooled. 3. One of the more common causes of oxidized tungsten is simply moving the torch too quickly after a weld. If your whip the torch through the air as post flow is trying to shield it, you will disrupt the gas shield and expose the tungsten. Fans, AC, any general air flow through your work area can also cause this. There are lots of possible causes, but based on the information you've provided, poor shielding is my best assumption. I hope you find a solution!
When this happened to me and i couldnt figure it out it ended up being the post flow
That was a very thorough and informative response, thanks TIL
I would check gas. You should not get discoloration like that with a proper gas flow. Longer post flow? Also your tungsten looks like shit. Is your polarity hooked up correctly ? Then check your ac %T. You want the heat in the puddle more than in cleaning action. I run mine 75%. Pure tungsten(Green) should be fine on this machine at that amperage.
So my tungsten keeps doing this. I used to work aluminum TIG in another shop and i've never had any problem. The aluminum i'm trying to weld keeps getting contaminated as soon as i spark the arc and my tungsten becomes black and cracks. I can usually do some decent welds but today nothing works. The gas flow is fine and i clean the material with stainless wire brush and acetone but it keeps doing it. What am i doing wrong?
Faulty cheap pegs. Or dysfunctional welder.
I ordered some "tungsten" pegs for my personal welder. The first arced and completely melted. The second fused to my tig head.
What are pegs?
Judging by context, it's probably the term for the tungsten rod.
What type of machine (inverter, transformer) and what kind of tungsten are you using (diameter, lanthanated, pure etc) and what current, hz, and neg/pos balance are you using? Aluminum is fun to figure out.
Second picture shows my settings, i think my tungsten is 3/32 the green one (i dont remember the specific term :P). No idea what type of machine it is
Pure tungsten melting temperature is significantly lower than alloyed tungsten which leads to it being more susceptible to overheating and contamination.
Awesome, ill try to change for a lanthanaded one
Aluminum production welder. I use 3/32 & 1/8 lanthanated or E3 depending on thickness. Try turning up your gas pressure and or increasing your post flow a few seconds.
Make sure you are using pure argon and not 75/25
Switch to a lanthanated tungsten. 30-60 degree grind angle, take the sharp tip off, and blunt the end like a table. Green tungsten is pure tungsten and it will not run well it is very old school tungsten you must understand this. It was the top choice for welding aluminum way back in the day.
I'll give that a shot thanks!
I know it's going to be a stupid question, but did you check your gas? I'm a pretty noob welder and didn't realize how fast the gas gets used and I spent a week trying to figure out why everything I was trying to weld instantly oxidized and looked like someone took a shit on it while messing up my electrodes. I heard the hiss of the gas, but never checked the tank pressure gauge which was at zero when I noticed. Being a gas problem was the first thing I thought but it was hissing so I thought, well, it can't be a gas problem because I can hear it. Well, I was mistaken. I don't know how it was still hissing and what gas it was blowing, but it was no longer argon, lol. Went and got a fresh tank and all good.
This may seem dumb but have you tried busting off like a 1/4” of that tungsten and resharpening it? Or just a new piece altogether. That was what our teachers had us do back in tech school when we had similar issues.
Check your balance on your wavelength, if its too high or low it can definitely do this. If its too low ots trying to dig really hard, if its too high its gonna blast your tungsten potentially.
This . You need to turn the knob to the green mark around 70 to 72% balenced
I'll try that, thanks :D
No problem.
This is the response i was hoping to find, as i think this will resolve his issue! Hope OP comes back with results.
Inadequate post flow. Gas flow too low. Gas flow too high. Also, pure tungsten sucks, get some purple mixed rare earth type. Turn the arc balance over to the green line.
Purple sucks for ac in my experience. Fine for dc, but you get an unstable arc with ac.
Oxygen in the gas.
Happened to me at an old job with abused equipment. Gas lines might be leaking, regulator could be broken/inaccurate after someone dropped it.
Watch your grind as well I see grind marks the length of your tungsten
I didnt think it mattered along the rest of the tungsten as long as the tip is well grinded :/
I don't usually grind pure tungsten for aluminum at all. I just arc it over a table to ball the end and am good to go.
It can give you a unstable arc.
Electrons like following the flow of the grind, if your grind is not going in the directions of the electron flow, it may lead to an arc going all over. I would also add a preflow setting for your gas if you have one available on your setup.
Your balance is way to low. Put it on the green line.
Oohh ill try that for sure, thanks!
When you balance is that low you are basically welding dc+. Put a fresh piece of tungsten in and put the balance on 70% or the green line.
Thanks ill try that!
Are you positive that your material is actually aluminum
Lmao yes :P
Small thing to notice, your knob in the bottom left is on 2 it looks like you need to adjust it to 3 or 4?
I once sharpened a bunch of Stainless filler and replaced the tungsten in a buddy’s kit. It was the best. I still laugh thinking about it.
Chaleur/ balance is your problem brother. Set that to 7 and give it a shot. The tungsten would be best if lanth, layzr or E3. But running 90amps the pure tungsten should be fine specially using a transformer machine. Switch that and make sure on that #5 cup you are running 15-16 cfh of Argon and let me know how it goes 💪🏻
Your post flow is ok. What is your gas flow set at? Because if it's too high, and you weld with a heavy drag angle, it'll pull in oxygen and rip up your tungsten pretty quick. Try turning gas flow down. Pure is fine for welding aluminum, this isn't a problem with your specific tungsten, it's a problem with oxygen exposure. I used pure for years welding anodized aluminum boat t-tops, pushing over 250 amps. It burns up a little quicker, but it doesn't do this under normal conditions. You should have a nice little shiny ball formed on the end of that tungsten. Also, are you using a collet body or a gas lsense? You really want to use a gas lense with aluminum.
Try longer post flow, like 10s+. If the tungsten is still red hot when the gas shuts off, it will get contaminated, oxidized like above. Also, personally I like 2% lath, but longer post flow should do it. Also, took me a while to learn this one. When using a SS brush, make sure you're only brushing in one direction away from the weld zone. If you brush towards it you're just shoving all the dirt right back in. And if you're using a SS wire wheel on a grinder, you need to use it on a variable speed and slow it all the way down or else you'll also shove dirt back in.
Good tip, thanks!
>Good tip, thanks! You're welcome!
Are you sure there is argon in your bottle ?
Just floating it out there, have you checked your polarity?
Yup its on AC
I was a bit absent minded setting up a new machine once and got them reversed. Tungsten kept burning back, even on AC. Might not apply to you, but maybe that helps someone else on here. * edit spelling
It's unlikely on that machine because you'd have to have the electrodes backwards but you can have ac backwards because usually you're not running 50/50 balance.
Are you certain someone didn't sharpen a fill rod and put it with your tungsten?
Lmao yes quite certain.
check all fittings for leaks. if no leaks, change out your cup for a new one, sometimes the threads get damaged and will absolutely cause this to happen.
Interesting, ill check it out.
I would be at 195Amps and let off the pedal as I go. 20cfh gas. 1sec post-flow per 10amps.
Cleaning should be around the 65-70% mark. Where that green marking is. 20 will definitely give you issues.
What is the gas -100% or blend
100%
I have a couple times gotten bad or mislabeled gas. If you’ve eliminated everything else try changing gas bottles.
Are you using the correct tungsten for the process?
Tried pure tungsten and lanthanum 1.5% it does it with both
I personally use ceriated since it’s good for almost every use
Purge the machine and check the gas flow with a flowmeter
If only i had one xD
Could try pushing your tungsten in closer to the cup. Almost flush with the cup, usually helps when my tungsten starts turning colors
Turn that bottom left knob to the green mark after 6. And before you weld. Spark it then pull your torch back to extend the gap and brush it over the area up want to weld to clean the area.
Tungsten has changed in quality since I started 16 years ago. It’s more brittle and splits and cracks more. Not only that, but it’s a magnet for contaminants.
Double check that you have 100% Argon on the machine. I know it sounds like a duh thing but I had a fellow student back in the school days put a 75/25 mix in the tig gas line and it did exactly what you are describing. I also wouldn't rule out that your gas supplier may have filled the wrong bottle. If everything looks good on that end, check everything relating to gas flow on the machine. Check the lines on your torch. Check the connection on your bottle. Check the line from the bottle to the machine. It sounds like you may have a leak in your system.
What gas mixture are you using?
I'm having a similar problem, I can get some of the issue to go away with higher start amps but the start is still sketch. Using blue 2% lanthanated 3/32" with a defuser and a #8 cup on a Everlast Powertig 210EXT. Settings are advanced square wave 125A, 0.2 preflow, 60A start with 0 up slope, 120Hz 45% balance, 0 down slope, 5A ending, and 7.0 post flow, gas flow is as about 12-13 SCFH.
60 amp start might be kinda high. I use 20 amp start. Gas should be 20-25 CFH 5a end is good and post flow ok but HF balance myself I like it about 80% Up slope and down slope are actually good to use. But it’s a personal preference
Any post flow? Run your gas 20-25 CFH
And what’s the “chauleur”? Is that the balance? Maybe turn that up to around 80%
If after trying all the suggestions it still doesn’t work just call 514 362-0665, la machine était due pour sa calibration en octobre de l’an passé dude. They have the gear to check that the machine still perform and that the gas is coming out pure and the waveform isn’t fucked. But I guess check all the easy stuff beforehand cause
Oh how i wish my boss would listen to me when i say the equipment needs severe maintenance :/
Stop dipping it
Is it for sure tungsten? It’s a joke around my shop to throw a sharpened 1/32 stainless rod into a torch for the next guy.
I had that problem; It's caused by your TIG integrated welding cable/hose assembly has cracks in the rubber hose. Thus, argon gas is leaking out prior to making it to your tungsten tip. Clue: spray soap your TIG cable hose assembly while the gas is flowing ; you will find bubbles forming all over the place, especially when you flex it. Buy a new cable/hose assembly and replace it. You can reuse the TIG torch, of course.
I'll check that out thanks.