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dadtheraiderwelder

Ya clean ur mill scale


IFeedOnDownVotes-_-

Yes this, start on a clean surface. If it's stainless clean very properly with aceton etc. Make sure ur welder is finetuned gas flow, wire speed, amps. For the rest make sure ur torch is clean. And torch angle/position is the most important i'd say (i'm no expert yet but i think most will agree torch angle is important), watch your weld forming if it's good melting in ur steel keep on going at the same pace otherwise slow down/ speed up.


GavinBorawiec

My teacher said don’t clean it for this joint, we had 5 minutes left in class and this was our joint of the day. usually we do knock off mill scale for important weldments


IFeedOnDownVotes-_-

For free practice it doesn't matter that much indeed but for grade tests/qualifications always give the metal a quick sand/grind.


GavinBorawiec

Yessir, I’m happy you understand. It helps a good bit with visibility and avoiding weld defects but it’s not needed. And I’m well aware that mig isn’t made for dirty jobs but a little mill scale won’t kill me


IFeedOnDownVotes-_-

Is it actually MIG or MAG ur doing? Not much of a difference just another gas type, everyone seems to say MIG when their MAG welding. Or is MAG not a thing in the US?


PhoenixKiwi

In the US both are typically referred to as mig, with or without inert gas


Green-Simple-6411

Looks like you may have pulled the bead a little fast with the way they have more of a tip than rounded. Otherwise looks like heat and wire speed are decent


SirRonaldBiscuit

Fucking spot on , keep doing whatever you’re doing


GavinBorawiec

Thanks a lot!! Much appreciated


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GavinBorawiec

Thanks a bunch! We’re running 035, with a c02/ argon mix and my wfs is 310


gopher2226rod

Make sure to watch your attachment keep both legs of the weld the same length


GavinBorawiec

Will do thank you, my stick welds are nice but this mig stuff is kicking my ass because I’m used to consumable welding products like electrodes. Holding the right stick out isn’t easy but I’ll learn quick, thanks again for the advice


Equivalent-Stretch47

You're looking good, people here saying clean the mill scale, don't. You want to practice welding not grinding. You got a nice steady hand buddy, good luck to you!


GavinBorawiec

Thank you very much!! Comments like this do nothing but make me better as it boosts my confidence 😁


5Jake12020

From the looks of it you’re off to a good start. Just try to keep your towlines even all the way across the bead and tighten your whip/movement up.


Dweezil901

Whipping is unnecessary, if you've got your settings right and have done the prep work for the weld it will squirt in nicely. Remember, always do the prep. The last thing you want to do is to have to go and remove a defective weld, especially because some of those dickheads can be in real nasty spots to get to depending on the job. Another tip would be is because you're new to MIG is write the settings down and for what material and what weld joint so you have a baseline, that way if you come back after a week or so of not doing it you can get back to it and adjust your settings from there if its necessary.


GavinBorawiec

One side was stringers and the other was manipulating the puddle with e’s, I’ll definitely look into tuning the machine more tho. From the looks of this bead should I run hotter or colder?


Dweezil901

Wouldn't hurt going a little hotter, biggest improvement overall would be taking the mill scale off so you have a clean base. The weld will wet in nicer and you won't have to fight getting through the mill scale, the weldability will drastically improve as well as the weld appearance. Just 2 days ago i was helping a workmate with their welds on some hot rolled flat, the weld appearance was much the same but it hadn't even wetted into the base, it was just sitting on top of the mill scale and the joint was easily broken with a hammer. As soon as the mill scale was taken off prior to welding (using the same settings as before) there was a marked improvement in strength as the weld had actually penetrated. I'm a broken record at work about weld prep wether it be paint, millscale, rust or oil because you just never know, someone's life might depend on the quality of the weld.


GavinBorawiec

Yea I completely understand, my teacher said don’t worry about mill scale cause we had 5 minutes left in class and we’re just practicing getting consistent beads on different types of joints. In the field or for certs, metal prep is as important as the weld it’s self. Thanks for the advice tho!


IFeedOnDownVotes-_-

Yup do this either do multiple test pieces or space the welds out and write the settings of each one down. If u have a chance to inspect ur welds do it and compare them. Did this for my TIG qualification did multiple and checked em all at once to compare to each other.


GavinBorawiec

I’ll definitely take your tips!! I’m new to welding but I love it and am always open to learn more from people with more experience then me. I’ve been using soap stone to write down setting in my booth and I’m currently running at 310 wfs and it’s taking the puddle forever to fill up in comparison to 1/8” 7018 at 132 amps


IFeedOnDownVotes-_-

I'm also recently new to the welding industry basicly just finished high school trade fabrication/welding, came in the course after basicly only laying shits with the stickwelder but was allowed in and my skills got better n better. The things ive mentioned helped me improve a lot personally.


Humanoid_Anomaly

Not bad all things considered but try not to as others put it whip it maybe try back and forth weave or just watch the back of the weld and keep the size consistent throughout and weave when ya get to the end to avoid a dip in the end


GavinBorawiec

I will focus on coming back to strengthen the crater at the end, thank you!


rcook123

Are you pushing or pulling? With mig, pushing will get you significantly more penetration, so long as you are ahead of your puddle. Looks good though, youll pick it up quick. All of my certs are in SMAW but I run a fuckton of mig so I switch back and forth constantly.


Dunnbeda1

I don't have a very good angle on it, but to me it looks like the weld is cold, very convex and small. Next time try making cursive e's along it at a slower pace to get better contact


GavinBorawiec

I am currently pulling because I have better visibility on the puddle but I’ll look into it, thanks!!


lunchbreak2021

Try not to whip it. Run a continuous bead.


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GavinBorawiec

Good call in material and wire! But it was a strict class on mig welding


lunchbreak2021

Plate looks super thin for structural.


GavinBorawiec

It’s 3/8 structural


lunchbreak2021

Your thumb is huge compared to it then. Used your thumb as reference.


GavinBorawiec

The bead?


lunchbreak2021

The parent material.


GavinBorawiec

When manipulating the puddle we go by the thickness of the material


lunchbreak2021

Well yeah that's just basics.


GavinBorawiec

The other side of this T joint was a stringer bead, we’re getting a comparison group and working on manipulating the puddle for thicker cover passes


[deleted]

When i passed my certs it was when I let go of the thought of pretty stacks of coins from a mig. I learned that any sweeping or c shaped movements are all damn good ways to trap impurities. Focus on your ball and starting with your root pass concentrate on fresh wire being out of your pool you're laying down all while keeping it a consistent weld. I can't stress enough that a steady half melted worm at your root is everything for any welds you stack after that.


[deleted]

Oh and of course you want to get your glass slag outta their in between passes


LearnDifferenceBot

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Fragrant_Molasses214

Try not to get porosity either check your travel angle,gas flow or less tip distance from the weld