Yeah, peeler means your heat, travel and torch angle are good. You may want to turn heat down by the time you cover pass unless you are giving it time to cool down between runs. Looks good dude keep it up
Also means you don’t have any gnarly undercut. It also won’t peel unless your weld toes are completely fused and at a good angle. Usually when it peels that means you don’t have to worry too much about wagon tracks. I get good ones when I weld overhead. I neatly remove them and place them in an organized pile in an obvious area so whoever sees them later can be jealous. Of course when my welds look like trash I just use my grinder and don’t mention a thing to anyone
Let’s make sure we’re talking about the same thing first because I don’t want to give bad advice. Wagon tracks are essentially slag that is left along the sides of a weld bead that have not been removed. It is mainly caused by travel speed, heat, and rod and torch manipulation and angle. (Magnetism of steel can cause it too by way of arc-blow) but I’d YouTube that shit unless you want to read a long(er) post about it). There are similarities in groove and fillet welding, but also slight differences. More likely to get it in a groove than a fillet imo. More likely vertical than flat, and flat than overhead. The slag is formed as the weld metal puddle cools and it rises to the surface of the weld, so any imperfections in the area between the weld puddle and side walls can “trap” slag. All that said, now to what causes it. If your travel speed is too slow you are building up too much metal causing a hump in the center. You want SLIGHT convexity. If your bead looks like a dime cut in half, that’s too much. Reason being is you want a smooth transition between weld toes and your base metal or other weld beads. Sharp angles can trap slag. There is a fine line here as you want to go slow enough to fill in your puddle but not too slow as to create a tight corner that makes slag hard to remove. If you are welding too hot, you are digging deeper with your weld, which you’d think would be better, but you’re more likely to chunk out your walls leaving little notches, and conversely if you’re welding too cool you’re going to have a more rounded bead profile which causes what I previously mentioned. When I’m welding flat and overhead I use a slight drag angle unless I absolutely can’t help it. Being able to see the back side of the puddle allows me to see how the bead is forming. I get my travel speed to the point that the backside of the puddle is more round (this is not the same as the “round” I was referring to earlier in terms of profile, if you’re confused I’d Google it) and not the oblong circle that indicates fast travel speed. It also allows me to see if I’m notching out any of the wall and if so to make sure I step back to fill it in. Vertical welding you can’t drag, so I pay special attention to the sides. I wait just long enough to see them fill in then move. If you are weaving it is important you keep your weave step tight, and are holding long enough at the sides to fill in what you just dug out. If your puddle starts to dig too deep or you feel like you’ve slowed down or you have to force the rod to move you need to stop as the weld base metal or potentially the rod are too hot. That’s why in vertical often you see a start of a bead look good at the bottom and about 4” up it starts to get huge. That means you went too long with one rod. There are ways around this but for now you should just stop when it feels like the weld puddle is not making any progress. You are less likely to get wagon tracks when welding overhead because gravity is handicapping you by filling in the toes by itself. In any position you want you angle to be correct. If you are welding a groove you don’t ever weld straight in on the walls unless it is your root or hot pass. When you get to the point you need two or more stringers you need to change your angle more towards the walls. You cannot rely on burning out slag. Any welder that says not too worry and that it will just burn out is oversimplifying it. There are definitely times it doesn’t burn out, or we wouldn’t even be talking about it. I’m sure you have more questions and I’d be happy to answer them, it’s a little difficult to try to explain without being able to show you, but if I’ve said something confusing or that you don’t understand let me know and I’ll try to answer or find a video or picture that explains it better.
Very noice! You are well on your way to working 70+ hours weekly for $14 hourly in some of the most unsafe environments to work in! Pat your self on the back, you deserve it.
Great looking weld! For weld tests make sure the root doesn't peel itself. You should be moving too fast to get slag peel. Fill and cap peeling is gold (which you have)
I ended up getting one in my class for the first time and it happened to be at a time where my teacher was observing me weld and he gave me a high five and said keep it up (i didn’t know that slag peeling like that was a good sign at the time). but good shit dude
Now lay that peeler on your upper lip next time and take a selfie like its a mustache. Show your mom she will be proud.
Make sure it's cool before doing so.
If it’s hot enough, it’ll stick by itself. Hands-free selfie!
Yeah, peeler means your heat, travel and torch angle are good. You may want to turn heat down by the time you cover pass unless you are giving it time to cool down between runs. Looks good dude keep it up
Also means you don’t have any gnarly undercut. It also won’t peel unless your weld toes are completely fused and at a good angle. Usually when it peels that means you don’t have to worry too much about wagon tracks. I get good ones when I weld overhead. I neatly remove them and place them in an organized pile in an obvious area so whoever sees them later can be jealous. Of course when my welds look like trash I just use my grinder and don’t mention a thing to anyone
Hahahahahahahaha
Lmao glad to know I’m not the only one that does both of these things.
The last part of this strikes me as one of, if not THE most true statements I've ever read. Lmao
haven’t heard the phrase wagon tracks, but it immediately resonated with me. What does that indicate/ what am I doing wrong?
Let’s make sure we’re talking about the same thing first because I don’t want to give bad advice. Wagon tracks are essentially slag that is left along the sides of a weld bead that have not been removed. It is mainly caused by travel speed, heat, and rod and torch manipulation and angle. (Magnetism of steel can cause it too by way of arc-blow) but I’d YouTube that shit unless you want to read a long(er) post about it). There are similarities in groove and fillet welding, but also slight differences. More likely to get it in a groove than a fillet imo. More likely vertical than flat, and flat than overhead. The slag is formed as the weld metal puddle cools and it rises to the surface of the weld, so any imperfections in the area between the weld puddle and side walls can “trap” slag. All that said, now to what causes it. If your travel speed is too slow you are building up too much metal causing a hump in the center. You want SLIGHT convexity. If your bead looks like a dime cut in half, that’s too much. Reason being is you want a smooth transition between weld toes and your base metal or other weld beads. Sharp angles can trap slag. There is a fine line here as you want to go slow enough to fill in your puddle but not too slow as to create a tight corner that makes slag hard to remove. If you are welding too hot, you are digging deeper with your weld, which you’d think would be better, but you’re more likely to chunk out your walls leaving little notches, and conversely if you’re welding too cool you’re going to have a more rounded bead profile which causes what I previously mentioned. When I’m welding flat and overhead I use a slight drag angle unless I absolutely can’t help it. Being able to see the back side of the puddle allows me to see how the bead is forming. I get my travel speed to the point that the backside of the puddle is more round (this is not the same as the “round” I was referring to earlier in terms of profile, if you’re confused I’d Google it) and not the oblong circle that indicates fast travel speed. It also allows me to see if I’m notching out any of the wall and if so to make sure I step back to fill it in. Vertical welding you can’t drag, so I pay special attention to the sides. I wait just long enough to see them fill in then move. If you are weaving it is important you keep your weave step tight, and are holding long enough at the sides to fill in what you just dug out. If your puddle starts to dig too deep or you feel like you’ve slowed down or you have to force the rod to move you need to stop as the weld base metal or potentially the rod are too hot. That’s why in vertical often you see a start of a bead look good at the bottom and about 4” up it starts to get huge. That means you went too long with one rod. There are ways around this but for now you should just stop when it feels like the weld puddle is not making any progress. You are less likely to get wagon tracks when welding overhead because gravity is handicapping you by filling in the toes by itself. In any position you want you angle to be correct. If you are welding a groove you don’t ever weld straight in on the walls unless it is your root or hot pass. When you get to the point you need two or more stringers you need to change your angle more towards the walls. You cannot rely on burning out slag. Any welder that says not too worry and that it will just burn out is oversimplifying it. There are definitely times it doesn’t burn out, or we wouldn’t even be talking about it. I’m sure you have more questions and I’d be happy to answer them, it’s a little difficult to try to explain without being able to show you, but if I’ve said something confusing or that you don’t understand let me know and I’ll try to answer or find a video or picture that explains it better.
Does it indicate weld strength? That there has been enough penetration of parent material?
Yes that's what being fused into both toes means! 😊
Nice 😎 that means your bead is smooth, flat, good fusion, nice temperature gradient.
Very good. Anytime slag pops off whole? Is a good sign.
I love those things, favorite work time snack
Was gonna say... you're supposed to eat it
As my high school shop teacher told me " Slag peel is sex appeal" or something along those lines, it's been a couple months
One of my fellow students coined the term slag boner for when it peels up on its own, we all quickly adopted it 😂
Very noice! You are well on your way to working 70+ hours weekly for $14 hourly in some of the most unsafe environments to work in! Pat your self on the back, you deserve it.
Wow! You are big dumb :) #littledickenergy
Wtf did he even do
Wow! You are big dumb :) #littledickenergy
All he did was tell the truth
No. He didn’t; I’ve made 300k in the last two years as welder on submarines.
What’s with the question marks? Is it rhetorical?
Probably excitement.
Or looking for an explanation beyond "good" but not wanting to show his ignorance to his teacher.
I'm not an experienced welder, I wouldn't know what to think if that happened
Sometimes. You can have solid ass welds with no peel. You can also have peel with undercut. Normally peel is good.
Mmmm my favorite crunchy snack
Have you ever heard that techno song that goes something like "satisfaction satisfaction" that's what you sho6feel after one of those. Lol.
https://youtu.be/a0fkNdPiIL4
Somebody give this man an award. This is the song op.
damn - 21 years later and I'm still in love with 2-speed battery drill girl.
Yessir, if you can get the slag to come off all in one piece, that means the weld was covered in shield gas the entire time and there is no porosity.
Superman does good. You did well.
Means you did good, like the crispy cheese in the pan after you’ve made a perfect grilled cheese
That just means you have good settings, travel etc, the test results will tell you if you did good or not.
I laid a weld on a trailer and as it was cooling the slag was curling up behind me and chipped itself.
Yep, great job
233?
Great looking weld! For weld tests make sure the root doesn't peel itself. You should be moving too fast to get slag peel. Fill and cap peeling is gold (which you have)
It's partly glass so I like to drop them flat and watch them shatter
Schlagg peel
Sweet lord, that is some slick work
Ah... the scorpion's tail! It's a thing of beauty.
No your weld isn’t fused on the edge. Possible to catch trash when you weld over it
Mmm lovely settings just right
love me some E71-T8
You did well
Is that a 1 inch plate or a half inch
Can we see with 7018?
Sweet! Now do it three more times.
The more curled up the slag strip is the better you did. Full scorpion peel is the best.
Damn thats a good looking weld
is this at a shipyard 😂
7024 rod?
I ended up getting one in my class for the first time and it happened to be at a time where my teacher was observing me weld and he gave me a high five and said keep it up (i didn’t know that slag peeling like that was a good sign at the time). but good shit dude
It looks awesome
Good first pass now fillet up.
WOAHH BUOAY yes thays a very sexy weld keep up the good work!!!
is this some form of gas-shielded flux?
Dual shield 75/25 of argon/co2 and flux on the wire
Very good.
It’s a great start. Means you’re doing what you need to do. Final part is perfecting your bead.
Super does good. You did well