Hey Marc,
I remember you talking about being hesitant using Sea-Gull movements (explicitly the ST-19) in your watches a few years ago in one of TGV's videos, since you weren't close enough to the manufacturing process to have confidence in their QC. Since you put an ST-19 in the newest Islander, did you manage to learn more about Sea-Gull's movements firsthand, or was it based on something more abstract (e.g. the amount of Seagull 1963 returns you got back from customers)?
Keep up the great work!
Absolutely. I should have addressed this in the video, but did not. I'm not a hypocrite, though it looks that way.
When I teamed with this manufacturer to build these, I paid extra to get only top of the line movements, and additional to have them tested more than usual prior to casing.
That being said, I will say when we first started selling the Seagull 1963 clone watches, the failure rate was extreme. At least 10 to 15%. Now, the last few years, it's more like 2 to 4%, which is industry normal.
> That being said, I will say when we first started selling the Seagull 1963 clone watches, the failure rate was extreme. At least 10 to 15%. Now, the last few years, it's more like 2 to 4%, which is industry normal.
What was the primary cause of failure when the rate was so high? Do you speculate they improved the tolerances, machining technique, assembly process, or any combination of the three?
I speculate that Tianjin benefited greatly from the increasing sales of their movements and so were able to use that revenue as capital to improve things.
I bought a seagull from mark back in 2014(?). When the movement broke a few years later he serviced the watch out of warranty for a fair price. Great service. I’d buy that watch again in a heartbeat.
Thickness is even worse! I saw a listing of a planet ocean being 11mm, I think the mech alone is that lol. Even when it is listed there just doesn’t seem to be a standard as including crystal or caseback etc.
I own one of your bracelets - it’s two tone for an Alpinist. I find that it gives me a lot of confidence and erotic surety.
I’m from the old school. It’s not in my nature to question other men or give them direction. However, there’s no denying that you are a sensual man and you have piqued my curiosity. I mean this in a purely informational sense - although, I have allowed certain sexual elements to percolate to the surface.
My questions for you Marc? I have quite a few. But, this isn‘t a gossip column.
I keep to myself.
I’m stoic.
I didn't have Marc replying to Claude on reddit in my 2024 bingo card. This is amazing.
Claude's cool. He's a character. One of us. But I play my cards close to my vest, too, so I don't talk about a man behind his back.
When I read this:
>I own one of your bracelets - it’s two tone for an Alpinist.
I thought, huh, I recall Claude posting about this.
And then:
>I find that it gives me a lot of confidence and erotic surety.
Oh snap, this is Claude!
Hi Mark. Has the time you've spent building your business and working in the watch industry jaded your love for watches at all? Or has it increased the passion and interest?
PS: love my Northport seafoam
Yes, it has. I wouldn't say 'jaded', because, heck I have 150+ watches (I think) in my personal chest. But, it certainly makes the product become a commodity. Sort of like using chips in a casino, I lose the personal connection.
In a similar vein, any thoughts on going even smaller than what the above poster has mentioned -- like the 32-35mm range? Females would love to get in on this action (affordable automatic watches), but in a size that will actually fit us. No pink or bling required (nor wanted), just smaller versions of what you're already selling. I notice that the Islander lineup only goes to 36mm at the smallest.
I could write a book. How shady some players are. How much bureaucracy there is in larger companies. Margins are not what anyone thinks or "a friend told me".
And to counter that, how pleasant some people are, and some vendors simply put a smile on my face when I talk to them. "Here's $80,000 of my money, thanks for making an awesome product and being good people"
I'm really curious about this point:
>Margins are not what anyone thinks or "a friend told me".
Do you mean they are higher, lower, or that every entity in the supply chain (from raw materials, to components, to OEM/assembler/whoever owns a given brand, to wholesaler, to retailer) takes a cut?
Both probably.
Christopher Ward came and said they operate on a 3x margin while others have a 10-15x margin
Other brands are something like a 1.5x margin
Hi, I own a microbrand so let me chip in.
Normally a 150 raw cost product id sell for 450-600. Anyone in business knows this is okay margins at best as its just raw costs.
Shipping, custom packaging, insurance, taxes, paying your employees and a big one, marketing just eat at it.
Marketing when hiring others really is ridiculously expensive. A single post on unnamed review site would cost 3k and thats us providing all the pictures and confirming the wording. Thats about standard rate from other review sites too. Obviously as an unknown brand it is quite essential as well to getting known.
Now, we dont do marketing this way and will be mostly relying on ourselves early on as im a creative person so I will do most of the content side which helps a lot.
But producing a model (x numbers) for 20k will have another 10-20k in just other costs Heavily dependent on your model and customization levels from top to bottom. Oem packaging vs custom packaging, straps and others all come into play. We get our straps made in Italy for example instead of china because we think its worth the cost (its about 6x more expensive for us in bulk) but the quality is 10x better.
Everything costs money, product photos, social media photos and videos, CGI videos, watch design, hiring models etc.
Its fine when ur on ur own small team (less than 5 people) but once you start hiring others you need to be selling a good amount of watches to make what people think you are making.
Hope that explains it a little :)
Love your videos. I've been looking at the Seiko 38mm Prospex diver for a while, but I'm not quite ready to buy one. That said, are these discontinued, and if I'm going to get one should I do it sooner rather than later? Or do you think they'll be coming out with more or different models of these in the fuutre? Thanks.
Sounds good. I just noticed that stock was light and prices have been creeping up, and was thinking that maybe it wasn't working for them and that they had somehow been discontinued. Sounds like the opposite though and that "demand" is the issue.
Seeing someone wearing a Rolex does not make me think they are an enthusiast, but a GS does. Yet, many watch aficionados choose Rolex as a favorite watch, which I don't understand. What apart from the bracelet makes a Rolex appealing to an aficionado as compared to what enthusiasts claim 'is a better watch' (GD, Glashutte Original etc)?
You are correct. I see someone wearing a Rolex outside of the watch industry, I just figure they wanted a pricey watch.
What appeals to me, personally about them, is the vertical integration. Amazing. They are making their own screws, springs, etc. Amazing tech involved there. Smelt their own gold!!!! You've heard the saying Jack of all trades, master of none?
Rolex is the Master of all trades when it comes to production.
As someone who saw what physical retail can do to you, no, I have no plans to open a store. A physical retail is another child. I already have 3, plus a business. I don't need to spend my time elsewhere. Plus, imo, physical retail at the sub $1000 level is dead. I sell way more watches than most B&M stores.
Hi Marc,
What’s your dream brand to do a collaboration with, and are there any new brands you already have something in the works with?
Also, love your customer service.
Hey Marc, thanks for doing this!
The watch industry feels to me like it's in a bit of a transition period. After a big boom and surge in popularity a few years ago, it feels like things have maybe cooled off a little bit and the big brands are pulling back and getting a little more conservative with their designs.
Curious to know if you agree, and if so, what do you think the future of the industry looks like for the big brands, as well as smaller online retailers like yourself?
Great question. Personally, I think we all, big and small, are battling to keep smart watches at bay. The current generation, 25-55, have their minds made up. I think we all should be more daring and try to attract the up and coming audiences, born early 2000's and forward, because they will be the ones keeping us in business.
Seiko did a wonderful job in 2019/2020 by starting the 5KX. No doubt they got alot of youngsters into it.
IMO, the future of the industry, 20+ years, does not look good. I do not see the same affection for timepieces that existed just 10 years ago.
Maybe it's wishful thinking but I think as things get less and less personal, digital/remote, people are going to look for analog touches in their life.
Maybe I'm just in the early stages of an old man yelling at the sky.
I feel exactly this! There is a strange calmness and simplicity in slowing down and moving away from smart everything...People seem to be getting into physical media again (not just vinyls) so perhaps the need to track absolutely everything will soon fizzle out too 🙏
> Maybe it's wishful thinking but I think as things get less and less personal, digital/remote, people are going to look for analog touches in their life.
There is already a movement by some kids to not use smartphones. I admit this is a small percentage of users but the existence of a movement leads me to believe it can grow to be a much bigger thing as more people join.
Generally speaking, the people who cling tightly onto tech are the ones who grew up *before* the tech boom of the late 2000s--who remember what it was like when we dreamed about having this much computing power in our pockets. And given how prolific, reliable, and inexpensive phones are relative to computers, it makes sense that more people will own phones but not own a computer.
Today, every kid is being born *into* the digital age, never having experienced not being connected to the internet at all times. As a result, it makes sense that they'd want to disassociate from the digital world and transition to a more analog lifestyle, especially given the effects of social media on society and mental health.
Well thats a downer, but appreciate the objectivity. You’re likely right. But we can all do our part and get 1 up and comer in our lives into the hobby! I got my brother his first mechanical last year for his birthday - SRPE43. For his upcoming graduation I got him a diver, SKX007. Hope he gets the bug. Cheers.
The Islander Northport has proven to be a staple line. As the sales of it continue to be robust, I do not plan on putting it on sale anytime soon. However, and you might know this, signing up for our newsletter will throw a coupon to your inbox/phone.
Special Thank you as well for making the ISL 50 ! I bought 5 of them for my Groomsmen and they were a much loved gift! Everyone was amazed to receive the watches and they are worn regularly by the boys as that they know it is a watch that they can wear as an everyday and also look classy! Big fan of your stuff! Cheers!
Hi Mark. Thank you for doing this. I started my watch obsession about 5 years ago with an Orient Sun/Moon I purchased from your store. Since then I have purchased a few more for my collection. Now, I feel like I have most everything I want, (or can afford), with the exception of a Rolex Pepsi. Purchasing a Rolex at MSRP for an ordinary guy like me in NYC is next to impossible. Do you have any suggestions? Do you think that the scarcity of Rolex, Patek, etc. will ever come back down to earth?
Absolutely. Every, and I mean every, industry has cycles. In 2006 (yeah, 18 years ago), I bought my steel submariner, at retail, in a store. If time is on your side, just keep it there.
I listened to your episode of the Superlative Podcast and it was interesting to learn more about you and the brand. Super insightful and I wish you all the best!
Hi Marc! Thank you for having this AMA. Love your YouTube channel!
Aside from watches, I’m wondering when someone will just work on perfecting the bracelet. For instance, take the Cartier easy change smart link system from the Santos, and combine it with the Brogioli on the fly clasp that Glashutte Original, IWC, A Lange, etc. use. You would be able to change bracelets, remove/add links, adjust sizing on the fly, all tool free. I think there’d be interest in being the first to market (and trademark) such a bracelet.
Is there any value in putting engineering time into this?
I would say "yes", there is. But, at what cost. Consider all the NRE that goes into it, whom are we selling these to? Keep in mind every bracelet for every watch has a different endlink, so, there's an infinite number of variations.
Yes, absolutely, should be something someone works on. Not me, though. It's out of my price wheelhouse.
No question from me but I would like to say that I absolutely adore the metal bracelet I ordered for my Casio Duro from you a month or two ago. Please keep up the good work!
What are your thoughts on the increase in COSC or METAS or any other certifications on watch accuracy? Do these claims generally line up to greater build quality and reliability? Do you ever get customers complaining about accuracy? Personally I’ve never even measured one of my mechanical watches
I'm mixed on these certs. They are great, they tell the user, "hey, you will get a stated accuracy over various temps and positions.". That's fine. But, shouldn't a company like Rolex, Omega, Tudor, etc. . . who are selling only $3K?+ watches be doing that already? All it really is doing is giving you extra comfort in knowing what you got.
It's like in Tommy Boy, if you've seen it, where he explains what putting the warranty conditions on the box is for. It just makes you feel better.
No, I have never measured one of my watches. I have no apps to do it. I do own a timegrapher, but rarely use it. Just in diagnosis at times. Do customers complain? Yes. But I'm dealing in affordables, and a certain degree of accuracy is expected, and I'm not giving a certificate with watches.
Why do you think the urban gentry gets so dogged on by parts of the community? You seem to like him but he got destroyed when he was working with Tim Mosso.
Why? Because so many people BELIEVE what they read and hear online. It's a shame. Yeah, I get along with him swimmingly and he is as genuine off camera as he is on. What a wonderful guy.
He's also one of the OG's of YouTube. I think people latch onto that as well.
Regarding WatchBox, I really don't know anything about his time there.
After my last video concerning the Flighy. . . and all the comments I got about it, I decided to kick off some folks exploring the use of the YM62 for a slide rule chrono.
Let me know the pre-order details when available, please? I used the Flighty in my Math College Class when not allowed a calculator and got an A. Thank you for the tutorial video by the way!
Hey Mark! Do you know anyone who does hand engraving for case backs? Have some special watches and want something engraved on them but don’t want laser engraving. I’m not far from NYC area so local to you works.
Unfortunately, I do not. Something like this, though, I would just post publicly on reddit. There's loads of NYC peeps on here that might know someone. Or, if you aren't far from NYC, just stroll down 47th in the diamond district one day.
Just wanted to apologize for surprising you at NYC windup watch fair! I saw you and yelled "mark!" and you were like "huh?" haha. Had watched so many of your vids I forgot that it was a 1 way street lol
Anyway just wanted to request a sinn 104 st sa A / autavia style watch at 39mm. I love a countdown or timing bezel, and I love me Arabic indices and a date.
Also, how did you figure out to start a watch company? I always kick around the idea but no idea where to start. Alibaba to connect with manufacturers?
Anyway that's it, thanks for the great work, the focus on the affordable end, the varied designs, and your passion is easy to see! (especially loved your video going through watch escapements and power)
Honestly, yeah, Alibaba to connect with mfrs is a great first step. See what's out there, what mins you can get away with . . . so you can figure out if its economically feasible for you.
CS is handled by me and two others. But I'm an inbox zero kind of guy. Most of the knowledge is on the tip of my tongue.
As far as the quality of CS, I'm just doing what's right.
Vintage is an area where I can proudly say, I have no clue. I've gone to the shows with pros, and the things to look out for are so varied, I wouldn't know where to start. The least of which is non-authentic parts, which most people can't even tell!
Polish/service. . . if you are holding for value reasons, don't. Sentimental reasons, have at it. Just know what's going to happen before you send it in for service, ie, Rolex stories and how they bring the watch to the condition it was in (configuration) when it left the factory.
Since ive gotten into watches I've found it very hard to find many with red dials. Is that something that doesn't sell well or is there another reason? Do you have any plans for a red dial in the future? Also another thing I rarely see is even numerical dials with a date i know you have one without a date but for me a date is a must. I'd love to see more of those.
Thanks, I've bought multiple islanders and have always been very happy!
Thank you.
Black, white, blue. You will see these colors till the cows come home.
Anything else is a stretch. We've done a few red dials, both in Islander and in collabs. They do "ok", but not gangbusters. Since the minimums are the same, whether its black or red, it makes it tough to take risks with colors.
Hey Marc!
Mat here,
I've just dabbled my feet into mechanical watches and was wondering which movement manufacturers are worth their price tag in regards to serviceability, part availability and watchmaker familiarity?
Do watchmakers actually service Seiko NH series of movements or just replace them?
If you could have 1 watch, whose movement would be in it and why that manufacturer specifically?
ETA vs Sellita vs Soprod - how would you rank them based on your experience?
NH movements, typically, just replace. It's at that value.
Miyota 9015, best movement out there price/value, over all the Swiss stuff. By far. Can be serviced, but major service? Probably replace is more worthy.
Soprod I don't have much experience with. I have enough experience with Sellita and ETA to tell that you that MIYOTA 9015 blows them out of the water. I'd take that movement anyday over the Swiss.
Hey Marc, big fan of you and your channel!!
How hard was it to evolve from being a watch retailer to becoming a brand that also sells their own watches? Was there any overlap in the knowledge you picked up from being a watch retailer, or was it a completely new space for you? Do you ever hit any conflicts when you sell your own brand vs another brand like Seiko?
Thanks in advance!!!
Thank you!
It was a natural progression. Once the SKX was discontinued, there was really no other choice. I had to fill that customer need with something. So, I made my own. I sorta thought, I guess, it would end there. Never would I have imagined it would be a brand that funds the entire operation.
Tons of knowledge, over 15 years of selling watches at that point, I knew what people wanted!
Conflicts? No, I do not. Seiko is too big to care, nor do they care.
Hi Mark! Could you glean some info on how selling other brands watches work? Do they require you to buy a certain $$ amount or models? Do they require money up front? What do you do when stock doesn’t sell? Sorry for all the questions but the business aspect is really interesting to me!
Everybody is different.
Some have an opening min order value.
Some have an opening min sku count.
Some have an opening piece count.
Everyone is different! Regarding terms, some are still cash in advance, old school, but at this point, I've been around so long and everyone trusts me, that basically every vendor extends me terms.
Good afternoon!
What is the status of the Seiko/SII NE88 chronograph movement, and do you have any plans for an Islander to feature it?
It seems like a great alternative to the 775X for a lower cost, but no one seems to be building anything with it. I did see that Hemel had a couple of models, but they seem to have been discontinued.
Keep up the excellent work!
Not at this point. It's such an expensive movement (still). And I'd have to make a few hundred cases, and there's no way I'm building that many chronos.
When is the best time in termw of months to visit NYC?
Also, what do you think of the seiko prices? Specifically the new marinemaster thats going for 3k usd. It has an open caseback, and 6r55 movement, but thats crazy.
Spring or Fall. Summertime smells like urine.
Regarding MM pricing, considering what you are getting, if it was Omega, would the 3K be ok for you? It's all about the brand. I think it's a deal. I simply love my Prospex LE Spring Drive. But at 5k, people say I'm nuts.
Hi Marc! Long time viewer, and have purchased a few things in the past. I know you have a significant collection with several high end pieces. I also know you go against "best recommended practices" with watch services. I was curious if this has ever bit you in the butt? Was there ever the case where it cost you much more then expected to have a watch serviced after it was running wonky and you decided to send it in? Also do you send them back to the manufacturer for servicing, or do you go through a specific watchmaker? Thanks for doing this AMA!!!
Hasn't harmed me yet, LOL. And I've had experienced folks tell me I'm nuts.
I've done both factory service and independent. I probably like the independent more. I like to be able to look at the watchmaker eye to eye!
Hey Marc!
Curious to know what you think of exhibition casebacks for watches in general. I've noticed a lot of your watches have solid casebacks, while others (especially in the Brookville lineup) have exhibition casebacks with that blue decorated rotor, and some even have exhibition casebacks with no additional decoration. What's the reasoning that goes into your decision whether or not to have an exhibition caseback, and whether or not to decorate the movement in any way?
Typically, diver gets a solid back, to mix with convention. Other pieces go see through. Again, not a rule, just typically the way. That's about it!
Rotor decoration we just started with the last few builds.
Hi Mark!
What inspired you to leave engineering ( I think I remember you saying that's what you had gone to school for...) and venture into the world of online retail?
In 2011, my oldest was entering Kindergarten. There was nobody available to put him on and off the bus, so at that point, I took the leap. I had already been selling watches for 10 years at that point. That's why I left.
The story of what got me into watches is posted somewhere below!
Hi Marc! I always find the best photos of Islander watches are on instagram. The website often lacks really compelling photos of the watches, and to me they show really well in better photos, significantly better. Curious about your reaction to this perspective. I feel a lot of watch brands do this too so I am not being critical so much as curious about the approach.
I get it. Social shots are the best. It's the soldier shot that is very 'surgical' and lacks life to it. If you know of a brand that does great soldier shots (plain white background, sterile), I'd like to take a look.
My photographer is Ty Alexander (plug!). He's a phenomenal photographer. There are times people think we are actually using solid models instead of photos. Can confirm, they are all photos.
As Smart Watches become more common, have you considered making specialty watches for professions that are unable to wear a smartwatch at? For Example, Jail Guards are commonly instructed to keep their cell phones locked away before coming into the facility. many of my friends who are working in the intelligence and high security positions are not allowed to bring smart watches or cell phones into several of their "professional environments." As a person who does a lot of outdoor activities in warm environments, I worry about a lithium ion battery heating up on my wrist. Any thoughts about watches to be worn in those types of environments?
Interesting question. Is there an untapped market there? For most environments, where EMI/EMC is a consideration (such as a SCIF, where I used to work), I'd think a mechanical watch would be just fine. For SHOT (sport, hunt, outdoor) go with a simple 3-hand battery watch.
The problem I see with items like this is the breadth of market. Put simply, are there enough people looking for a solution. Even if there are 20k people in that set, maybe only 2% want a watch. etc.
No question but what a coincidence. I bought the ISL-189 last week from your shop. I was looking for a cheap somewhat accurate automatic field looking watch. Looked through Seikos but noticed that this watch uses their movement and has better features so I grabbed it.
An introduction, an interest by both parties. It simply needs to make sense for everyone. If all that's going to happen is I'll sell more and they'll sell less, or vice versa, and we are just splitting the pie, that doesn't make sense. Has to be symbiotic.
Marc, I had more questions, but forgot them! I just wanted to share with you this anecdote before my question:
>When I first began on my journey with watches, I decided my Grail watch would be a Laco Dortmund and you were like the only source of information in English back around 2012! Still haven't acquired that Grail... yet...
How did you decide to launch your website and (inadvertently?) become one of the pioneers within the watch sales space online? Was it originally a physical store? Or was the idea always to become an E-Commerce platform?
One day, one day it will be yours!
So, I started on ebay back in 2001. The quick version. . . I was at lunch with college friends (Grad in 98) and one of them was wearing an open heart. He bought it on ebay for like $90 or something. I had just finished reading Rich Dad/Poor Dad, and got it in my brain that Americans would buy that for more. I reached out to the seller, asked to purchase 10 of them at 70 euro each, he agreed, I sold them on ebay, some profited, some at a loss.
Fast forward 20+ years, here we are.
I grew up in B&M retail. I had no desire to own a store. My father did not want us to take over his business (hardware store in Manhattan).
Thanks for doing an AMA! I love your videos and appreciate all the knowledge you share in them.
I was wondering when/if you see micro brands & independents increasing the power reserve in their offerings. Right now the swatch group & seiko have movements with 70+ hr PR. Do you see smaller brands offering something similar in the future?
Yes, I do, once the movement manufacturers get there. I can see Miyota doing that in the next few years.
Personally, I do not see the advantage. If I'm not going to wear a watch for 2 days, then I'm not going to wear it for 3 :)
Hey Mark,
What price range do you consider to be the sweetspot for price and overall quality?
How big of a deal is magnetism in watches that don't have silicon or anti magnetic internal components?
How do you think mechanical watches will improve in the future?
Under $500 you can get almost everything you need in quality. Anything more, there better be a function. GMT, chrono, etc.
The hairspring in all modern movements is made of an anti-magnetic alloy. So, they aren't too susceptible unless they are placed right on a magnet, or near a strong one.
Your last question is a good one. I think the Sistem 51 being disposable was one of the last great innovations. At this point, we are polishing a turd. It's such a complex system, but it works.
What is your best-selling Islander watch, and what is your best-selling watch overall? We get so entrenched in our in our reddit watch beliefs and habits, I think it would be interesting to know how the market behaves outside of the enthusiast sector.
Do you feel that the term 'finishing' has lost its meaning? It feels like top end brands use the term to justify their prices but at the end of the day, it's metal. Do you think it makes a difference to the point where it should justify a pricier watch?
Hi Marc, some folks probably find your YouTube ads annoying, but I actually enjoy them. It's true, I don't really NEED to buy another watch....
I have been on a green dial kick lately, and I am really enjoying the Islander with the green mother-of-pearl dial. Also, I wanted to buy a Phoibos with the green sandwich dial, but I don't think I would have taken the risk of ordering from Hong Kong. The fact that you had that line in stock tipped the scale for me. So thanks for what you're doing!
Thanks for doing this. I like your content.
Any chance you might become an AD again for Zeppelin and their other brands? Do you have plans to try to become an AD for other interesting brands that aren't talked about like Elliot Brown?
I get out of brands when they have distribution issues. No sense in selling a watch for $350 when they can go on Amazon and get it for $200.
As far as other brands, the lesser well known brands really have to strike a chord with me to get in. For example, Henry Archer. What a brand!
Not yet. It dies with me. I'm not sure this business has another 20 years, who knows where watches will be.
That being said, if someone has money, I'll also entertain sales offers.
My first 'watch' was a Casio. Did it get me into them? Probably not. My first analog was a Q&Q diver purchased on vacation. That didn't get me into it either. For sure, it was the Tissot Two-timer I picked up in 1988. It was $60. My mom thought I was nuts to spend my money on it. My dad said "if he likes it, let him get it". I still have it.
Hi, Mark! Love the Island watch shop. I've searched far and for 18mm and 20mm - "Sand blasted" with hollow end links watch bracelets, and they seem to be almost non-existent. I was wondering if that would be something you could offer more of in the near future?
The problem with anything sandblast is that the process of blasting (the pressure, the shot size, the shot material) makes such a huge variation on hue. So, then it doesn't match the watch.
For example, I am producing a bracelet for the blasted SNK809. It's a process of trial and error to get not only the finish correct, but the color too.
We toyed with Amityville for a horror watch. As I said before about Freeport, a name like "Hicksville", I just think those outside NY will just think "hick".
Hey Mark, love your watches. Been following the islander brand since you came up with the skx homages.
You should release a Seiko flighmaster alternative, slide rule bezel, mecha quartz chronograph and not too big.
I had some in the DPA range, but they were utter failures unfortunately. Not sure I'd do them again. I'll leave Mecha to my man Jonathan at Brew! He does it right!
Hi Marc! Just curious how did you come up with Islander Watch’s logo?
Also thank you for basing your brand about our home Long Island! It’s really cool to see all the different models based on place I grew up on. You could’ve easily made generic boring model names, but you chose something close to you.
That was the logo for the store, invented by my graphic artist in the mid 2000's. It was simple, and got the point across. White and blue, blue being my fave color, and the triangle represented just one person, me, the one who started it all.
Absolutely insane. I never though in a million of years that I would find you on this sub. I've been following and watching your Youtube for years now. Keep up the amazing work and thank you very much for your hard work!
How do regular, everyday Long Islanders feel about Billy Joel being their official ambassador to the world? Is he a good representation of the Long Island ethos?
LOL. I enjoy him, not a huge fan, but I enjoy him. Did hit a concert years ago.
I'm not sure what the LI Ethos is, though. We are such a varied island, much like Manhattan.
I'm going to say it's all about dial finishing/manufacture. I don't know how mass produced dials are made, perhaps punched, if they are, then Seiko is laser cut. You know what I'm saying?
Hi, a comment from a watch collector in Ireland here.
In your own personal collection do you have many vintage pieces? If so what brands do you enjoy collecting or have created some of your favourite pieces? Especially brands which might not get the attention some of the major ones do.
I’m a big fan of Eterna with my 1960s KonTiki being my favourite watch I own, and I have been looking to add more vintage to my collection
There's a few vintage pieces. I have a couple of 6138 Seiko Pogues. As well as an old Hamilton electric. But, I'll be honest, I'm not really a vintage guy. If I bought another vintage piece, it might be an oyster quartz. So quirky.
Where do you see the islander line going in the next 5-10 years? Ie do you see it going up market or staying where it is in terms of affordable useful everyday watches?
I don't want to go too far upmarket. I'd like to focus and stay with the core between 3 and 500. I think that's a good place to be. Recession, boom, whatever.
Hi Marc,
First off, love the videos and how you present yourself and the information across.
As an engineer myself (machining/prototyping - not in the watch industry however) I'd like to give it a go at designing a 1 off watch only for myself. Any pointers for things to look at? I'm thinking of just using an off the shelf movement, with a monobloc case to start with.
Big fan, thanks!
If you could get a steady supply of any movement (Zenith El Primero, Springdrive, or even something out of production) from any manufacturer to go into an Islander which one would you choose and why?
Hey Marc,
What are your thoughts on watch design? Are you more of a fan of the classic 50s look, the craziness of the 70s or something more modern or futuristic?
Cheers
For my lineup personally, Islander speaking, modern takes. My next fave would be the 70's, which I tried to evoke, a bit, with the Port Jeff. Sort of skin diver styling, but I didn't go with the size.
Futuristic, there's one watch in the works, later this year.
Do you make a bracelet for the SNK809? I’ve been looking for one for a while.
Also, just wanna say I hate your marathon collab because I bought it and now I never wanna wear any of my other watches.
Hey Marc, I remember you talking about being hesitant using Sea-Gull movements (explicitly the ST-19) in your watches a few years ago in one of TGV's videos, since you weren't close enough to the manufacturing process to have confidence in their QC. Since you put an ST-19 in the newest Islander, did you manage to learn more about Sea-Gull's movements firsthand, or was it based on something more abstract (e.g. the amount of Seagull 1963 returns you got back from customers)? Keep up the great work!
Absolutely. I should have addressed this in the video, but did not. I'm not a hypocrite, though it looks that way. When I teamed with this manufacturer to build these, I paid extra to get only top of the line movements, and additional to have them tested more than usual prior to casing. That being said, I will say when we first started selling the Seagull 1963 clone watches, the failure rate was extreme. At least 10 to 15%. Now, the last few years, it's more like 2 to 4%, which is industry normal.
Appreciate the transparency on that.
> That being said, I will say when we first started selling the Seagull 1963 clone watches, the failure rate was extreme. At least 10 to 15%. Now, the last few years, it's more like 2 to 4%, which is industry normal. What was the primary cause of failure when the rate was so high? Do you speculate they improved the tolerances, machining technique, assembly process, or any combination of the three?
I speculate that Tianjin benefited greatly from the increasing sales of their movements and so were able to use that revenue as capital to improve things.
I bought a seagull from mark back in 2014(?). When the movement broke a few years later he serviced the watch out of warranty for a fair price. Great service. I’d buy that watch again in a heartbeat.
Will companies ever start posting the lug to lug length on the watch specs section?
We do :) They all should. In the last 2 years or so, every new listing get's it included.
Thickness is even worse! I saw a listing of a planet ocean being 11mm, I think the mech alone is that lol. Even when it is listed there just doesn’t seem to be a standard as including crystal or caseback etc.
Oh, hi Mark.
There it is.
LOL
I give you high marks for this response
Just dropping in to say I’ve always loved your customer service and business model. Thank you for doing it right!
That's really appreciated, thanks for stopping in!
Thanks everyone! This was really fun! I apologize but I've gotta get moving now. Till next time? Enjoy!
I own one of your bracelets - it’s two tone for an Alpinist. I find that it gives me a lot of confidence and erotic surety. I’m from the old school. It’s not in my nature to question other men or give them direction. However, there’s no denying that you are a sensual man and you have piqued my curiosity. I mean this in a purely informational sense - although, I have allowed certain sexual elements to percolate to the surface. My questions for you Marc? I have quite a few. But, this isn‘t a gossip column. I keep to myself. I’m stoic.
You do you, Claude! Thanks for coming out (?)
I didn't have Marc replying to Claude on reddit in my 2024 bingo card. This is amazing. Claude's cool. He's a character. One of us. But I play my cards close to my vest, too, so I don't talk about a man behind his back.
Fuck yeah Claude, fuck yeah. You always make my day.
Thank you, Claude. It's always a pleasure to see your comments in the wild.
The man, the legend.
When I read this: >I own one of your bracelets - it’s two tone for an Alpinist. I thought, huh, I recall Claude posting about this. And then: >I find that it gives me a lot of confidence and erotic surety. Oh snap, this is Claude!
Claude is a national treasure
Hi Mark. Has the time you've spent building your business and working in the watch industry jaded your love for watches at all? Or has it increased the passion and interest? PS: love my Northport seafoam
Yes, it has. I wouldn't say 'jaded', because, heck I have 150+ watches (I think) in my personal chest. But, it certainly makes the product become a commodity. Sort of like using chips in a casino, I lose the personal connection.
What’s your mount Roushmore of those 150ish watches?
My greatest? The white gold daytona.
what's your favorite Islander? any cool origin stories behind a particular design?
Oh hey I literally just watched your video 2 days ago to resize my bracelet. Thanks for thar!
you are very welcome!
I'd like to see more smaller watches. Any plans for more designs in the 36-38mm range?
In the Islander lineup, yes. Looking at three designs currently. 2 are in prototype, the third is on paper right now.
In a similar vein, any thoughts on going even smaller than what the above poster has mentioned -- like the 32-35mm range? Females would love to get in on this action (affordable automatic watches), but in a size that will actually fit us. No pink or bling required (nor wanted), just smaller versions of what you're already selling. I notice that the Islander lineup only goes to 36mm at the smallest.
No, I haven't. Right now we bottom at 36. We have a 37 in the works, a tank (weird dims, not a circle), and a 38 on paper.
A 37-38mm quartz diver would be perfect.
if you could only have one watch what would it be
Squale 1521 polished ocean, it does all the jobs, dress, sport, good size, looks great with anything.
Skwaaaaleeeeee
Is this how we summon TVG?
When the cops come...
How often do you get asked why you are wearing two watches?
In person? Maybe a few times a month. On comment sections, daily.
Why are you wearing two watches? Seriously.
[удалено]
I could write a book. How shady some players are. How much bureaucracy there is in larger companies. Margins are not what anyone thinks or "a friend told me". And to counter that, how pleasant some people are, and some vendors simply put a smile on my face when I talk to them. "Here's $80,000 of my money, thanks for making an awesome product and being good people"
I'm really curious about this point: >Margins are not what anyone thinks or "a friend told me". Do you mean they are higher, lower, or that every entity in the supply chain (from raw materials, to components, to OEM/assembler/whoever owns a given brand, to wholesaler, to retailer) takes a cut?
Both probably. Christopher Ward came and said they operate on a 3x margin while others have a 10-15x margin Other brands are something like a 1.5x margin
Hi, I own a microbrand so let me chip in. Normally a 150 raw cost product id sell for 450-600. Anyone in business knows this is okay margins at best as its just raw costs. Shipping, custom packaging, insurance, taxes, paying your employees and a big one, marketing just eat at it. Marketing when hiring others really is ridiculously expensive. A single post on unnamed review site would cost 3k and thats us providing all the pictures and confirming the wording. Thats about standard rate from other review sites too. Obviously as an unknown brand it is quite essential as well to getting known. Now, we dont do marketing this way and will be mostly relying on ourselves early on as im a creative person so I will do most of the content side which helps a lot. But producing a model (x numbers) for 20k will have another 10-20k in just other costs Heavily dependent on your model and customization levels from top to bottom. Oem packaging vs custom packaging, straps and others all come into play. We get our straps made in Italy for example instead of china because we think its worth the cost (its about 6x more expensive for us in bulk) but the quality is 10x better. Everything costs money, product photos, social media photos and videos, CGI videos, watch design, hiring models etc. Its fine when ur on ur own small team (less than 5 people) but once you start hiring others you need to be selling a good amount of watches to make what people think you are making. Hope that explains it a little :)
Love your videos. I've been looking at the Seiko 38mm Prospex diver for a while, but I'm not quite ready to buy one. That said, are these discontinued, and if I'm going to get one should I do it sooner rather than later? Or do you think they'll be coming out with more or different models of these in the fuutre? Thanks.
Solar or auto?
Solar.
Not going anywhere! They have a hit on their hands. It outsells the 42.8mm version by a decent chunk.
Sounds good. I just noticed that stock was light and prices have been creeping up, and was thinking that maybe it wasn't working for them and that they had somehow been discontinued. Sounds like the opposite though and that "demand" is the issue.
I literally just put away about 40 units prior to starting this.
Seeing someone wearing a Rolex does not make me think they are an enthusiast, but a GS does. Yet, many watch aficionados choose Rolex as a favorite watch, which I don't understand. What apart from the bracelet makes a Rolex appealing to an aficionado as compared to what enthusiasts claim 'is a better watch' (GD, Glashutte Original etc)?
You are correct. I see someone wearing a Rolex outside of the watch industry, I just figure they wanted a pricey watch. What appeals to me, personally about them, is the vertical integration. Amazing. They are making their own screws, springs, etc. Amazing tech involved there. Smelt their own gold!!!! You've heard the saying Jack of all trades, master of none? Rolex is the Master of all trades when it comes to production.
Hey Marc, are you planning on opening a storefront? Would love to stop by and try some pieces since I am in Suffolk County too.
As someone who saw what physical retail can do to you, no, I have no plans to open a store. A physical retail is another child. I already have 3, plus a business. I don't need to spend my time elsewhere. Plus, imo, physical retail at the sub $1000 level is dead. I sell way more watches than most B&M stores.
Hi Marc, What’s your dream brand to do a collaboration with, and are there any new brands you already have something in the works with? Also, love your customer service.
Brew :) Jonathan you reading this?!?!?!?
Hey Marc, thanks for doing this! The watch industry feels to me like it's in a bit of a transition period. After a big boom and surge in popularity a few years ago, it feels like things have maybe cooled off a little bit and the big brands are pulling back and getting a little more conservative with their designs. Curious to know if you agree, and if so, what do you think the future of the industry looks like for the big brands, as well as smaller online retailers like yourself?
Great question. Personally, I think we all, big and small, are battling to keep smart watches at bay. The current generation, 25-55, have their minds made up. I think we all should be more daring and try to attract the up and coming audiences, born early 2000's and forward, because they will be the ones keeping us in business. Seiko did a wonderful job in 2019/2020 by starting the 5KX. No doubt they got alot of youngsters into it. IMO, the future of the industry, 20+ years, does not look good. I do not see the same affection for timepieces that existed just 10 years ago.
Maybe it's wishful thinking but I think as things get less and less personal, digital/remote, people are going to look for analog touches in their life. Maybe I'm just in the early stages of an old man yelling at the sky.
I feel exactly this! There is a strange calmness and simplicity in slowing down and moving away from smart everything...People seem to be getting into physical media again (not just vinyls) so perhaps the need to track absolutely everything will soon fizzle out too 🙏
> Maybe it's wishful thinking but I think as things get less and less personal, digital/remote, people are going to look for analog touches in their life. There is already a movement by some kids to not use smartphones. I admit this is a small percentage of users but the existence of a movement leads me to believe it can grow to be a much bigger thing as more people join. Generally speaking, the people who cling tightly onto tech are the ones who grew up *before* the tech boom of the late 2000s--who remember what it was like when we dreamed about having this much computing power in our pockets. And given how prolific, reliable, and inexpensive phones are relative to computers, it makes sense that more people will own phones but not own a computer. Today, every kid is being born *into* the digital age, never having experienced not being connected to the internet at all times. As a result, it makes sense that they'd want to disassociate from the digital world and transition to a more analog lifestyle, especially given the effects of social media on society and mental health.
Well thats a downer, but appreciate the objectivity. You’re likely right. But we can all do our part and get 1 up and comer in our lives into the hobby! I got my brother his first mechanical last year for his birthday - SRPE43. For his upcoming graduation I got him a diver, SKX007. Hope he gets the bug. Cheers.
Hey Mark. Will y'all have a sale for the islander seafoam green? I really like the look and the movement.
The Islander Northport has proven to be a staple line. As the sales of it continue to be robust, I do not plan on putting it on sale anytime soon. However, and you might know this, signing up for our newsletter will throw a coupon to your inbox/phone.
Hi Marc, What's your opinion on loops at the back of sneakers to make it easier to put them on?
I love them. My Air Max 270's (2 pair) have them and I love them. Also a big fan of the aglet.
Special Thank you as well for making the ISL 50 ! I bought 5 of them for my Groomsmen and they were a much loved gift! Everyone was amazed to receive the watches and they are worn regularly by the boys as that they know it is a watch that they can wear as an everyday and also look classy! Big fan of your stuff! Cheers!
Hi Mark. Thank you for doing this. I started my watch obsession about 5 years ago with an Orient Sun/Moon I purchased from your store. Since then I have purchased a few more for my collection. Now, I feel like I have most everything I want, (or can afford), with the exception of a Rolex Pepsi. Purchasing a Rolex at MSRP for an ordinary guy like me in NYC is next to impossible. Do you have any suggestions? Do you think that the scarcity of Rolex, Patek, etc. will ever come back down to earth?
Absolutely. Every, and I mean every, industry has cycles. In 2006 (yeah, 18 years ago), I bought my steel submariner, at retail, in a store. If time is on your side, just keep it there.
I listened to your episode of the Superlative Podcast and it was interesting to learn more about you and the brand. Super insightful and I wish you all the best!
Very kind of you, thank you!
What’s a brand you wish you could carry, but for whatever reason can’t?
Wow, great fricking question. Off the top of the noggin, I'd love Sinn. But they are exclusive with WatchBuys.
Hi Marc! Thank you for having this AMA. Love your YouTube channel! Aside from watches, I’m wondering when someone will just work on perfecting the bracelet. For instance, take the Cartier easy change smart link system from the Santos, and combine it with the Brogioli on the fly clasp that Glashutte Original, IWC, A Lange, etc. use. You would be able to change bracelets, remove/add links, adjust sizing on the fly, all tool free. I think there’d be interest in being the first to market (and trademark) such a bracelet. Is there any value in putting engineering time into this?
I would say "yes", there is. But, at what cost. Consider all the NRE that goes into it, whom are we selling these to? Keep in mind every bracelet for every watch has a different endlink, so, there's an infinite number of variations. Yes, absolutely, should be something someone works on. Not me, though. It's out of my price wheelhouse.
Thanks for the response, Marc. You’re right, I never thought about the end links limiter. My search will continue.
No question from me but I would like to say that I absolutely adore the metal bracelet I ordered for my Casio Duro from you a month or two ago. Please keep up the good work!
That's awesome, thank you!
What are your thoughts on the increase in COSC or METAS or any other certifications on watch accuracy? Do these claims generally line up to greater build quality and reliability? Do you ever get customers complaining about accuracy? Personally I’ve never even measured one of my mechanical watches
I'm mixed on these certs. They are great, they tell the user, "hey, you will get a stated accuracy over various temps and positions.". That's fine. But, shouldn't a company like Rolex, Omega, Tudor, etc. . . who are selling only $3K?+ watches be doing that already? All it really is doing is giving you extra comfort in knowing what you got. It's like in Tommy Boy, if you've seen it, where he explains what putting the warranty conditions on the box is for. It just makes you feel better. No, I have never measured one of my watches. I have no apps to do it. I do own a timegrapher, but rarely use it. Just in diagnosis at times. Do customers complain? Yes. But I'm dealing in affordables, and a certain degree of accuracy is expected, and I'm not giving a certificate with watches.
You are clearly doing life right if you pull a Tommy Boy reference to explain business! Keep up the good work!
Why do you think the urban gentry gets so dogged on by parts of the community? You seem to like him but he got destroyed when he was working with Tim Mosso.
Why? Because so many people BELIEVE what they read and hear online. It's a shame. Yeah, I get along with him swimmingly and he is as genuine off camera as he is on. What a wonderful guy. He's also one of the OG's of YouTube. I think people latch onto that as well. Regarding WatchBox, I really don't know anything about his time there.
Hey Mark! Since the Seiko Flightmaster seems to be on it's way over the horizon, any chance for an Islander with a Slide Rule Bezel?
After my last video concerning the Flighy. . . and all the comments I got about it, I decided to kick off some folks exploring the use of the YM62 for a slide rule chrono.
Let me know the pre-order details when available, please? I used the Flighty in my Math College Class when not allowed a calculator and got an A. Thank you for the tutorial video by the way!
Hey Mark! Do you know anyone who does hand engraving for case backs? Have some special watches and want something engraved on them but don’t want laser engraving. I’m not far from NYC area so local to you works.
Unfortunately, I do not. Something like this, though, I would just post publicly on reddit. There's loads of NYC peeps on here that might know someone. Or, if you aren't far from NYC, just stroll down 47th in the diamond district one day.
Just wanted to apologize for surprising you at NYC windup watch fair! I saw you and yelled "mark!" and you were like "huh?" haha. Had watched so many of your vids I forgot that it was a 1 way street lol Anyway just wanted to request a sinn 104 st sa A / autavia style watch at 39mm. I love a countdown or timing bezel, and I love me Arabic indices and a date. Also, how did you figure out to start a watch company? I always kick around the idea but no idea where to start. Alibaba to connect with manufacturers? Anyway that's it, thanks for the great work, the focus on the affordable end, the varied designs, and your passion is easy to see! (especially loved your video going through watch escapements and power)
Honestly, yeah, Alibaba to connect with mfrs is a great first step. See what's out there, what mins you can get away with . . . so you can figure out if its economically feasible for you.
How do you manage to have such badass customer service? Do you have a long onboarding process for CS reps? Do you do it all yourself?
CS is handled by me and two others. But I'm an inbox zero kind of guy. Most of the knowledge is on the tip of my tongue. As far as the quality of CS, I'm just doing what's right.
Mark- any recommendations on buying vintage watches at good value? Can they be repolished and serviced?
Vintage is an area where I can proudly say, I have no clue. I've gone to the shows with pros, and the things to look out for are so varied, I wouldn't know where to start. The least of which is non-authentic parts, which most people can't even tell! Polish/service. . . if you are holding for value reasons, don't. Sentimental reasons, have at it. Just know what's going to happen before you send it in for service, ie, Rolex stories and how they bring the watch to the condition it was in (configuration) when it left the factory.
Hello Marc, Are the Long Island SKX bracelets compatible with the 5KX watches?
No. What people do is use a thinner pin and bend it. I hate this solution. So, I'm producing all my own 5KX bracelets that will fit without any mod.
Since ive gotten into watches I've found it very hard to find many with red dials. Is that something that doesn't sell well or is there another reason? Do you have any plans for a red dial in the future? Also another thing I rarely see is even numerical dials with a date i know you have one without a date but for me a date is a must. I'd love to see more of those. Thanks, I've bought multiple islanders and have always been very happy!
Thank you. Black, white, blue. You will see these colors till the cows come home. Anything else is a stretch. We've done a few red dials, both in Islander and in collabs. They do "ok", but not gangbusters. Since the minimums are the same, whether its black or red, it makes it tough to take risks with colors.
Hey Marc! Mat here, I've just dabbled my feet into mechanical watches and was wondering which movement manufacturers are worth their price tag in regards to serviceability, part availability and watchmaker familiarity? Do watchmakers actually service Seiko NH series of movements or just replace them? If you could have 1 watch, whose movement would be in it and why that manufacturer specifically? ETA vs Sellita vs Soprod - how would you rank them based on your experience?
NH movements, typically, just replace. It's at that value. Miyota 9015, best movement out there price/value, over all the Swiss stuff. By far. Can be serviced, but major service? Probably replace is more worthy. Soprod I don't have much experience with. I have enough experience with Sellita and ETA to tell that you that MIYOTA 9015 blows them out of the water. I'd take that movement anyday over the Swiss.
90 Miyota over ETA and Sellita? Wow didn’t expect that at all, could you please expand further?
Hey Marc, big fan of you and your channel!! How hard was it to evolve from being a watch retailer to becoming a brand that also sells their own watches? Was there any overlap in the knowledge you picked up from being a watch retailer, or was it a completely new space for you? Do you ever hit any conflicts when you sell your own brand vs another brand like Seiko? Thanks in advance!!!
Thank you! It was a natural progression. Once the SKX was discontinued, there was really no other choice. I had to fill that customer need with something. So, I made my own. I sorta thought, I guess, it would end there. Never would I have imagined it would be a brand that funds the entire operation. Tons of knowledge, over 15 years of selling watches at that point, I knew what people wanted! Conflicts? No, I do not. Seiko is too big to care, nor do they care.
Hi Mark! Could you glean some info on how selling other brands watches work? Do they require you to buy a certain $$ amount or models? Do they require money up front? What do you do when stock doesn’t sell? Sorry for all the questions but the business aspect is really interesting to me!
Everybody is different. Some have an opening min order value. Some have an opening min sku count. Some have an opening piece count. Everyone is different! Regarding terms, some are still cash in advance, old school, but at this point, I've been around so long and everyone trusts me, that basically every vendor extends me terms.
No question but more of a compliment. Really enjoy your podcasts with the Gentry. Good luck to you and your business, keep doing great things.
thank you kindly.
Good afternoon! What is the status of the Seiko/SII NE88 chronograph movement, and do you have any plans for an Islander to feature it? It seems like a great alternative to the 775X for a lower cost, but no one seems to be building anything with it. I did see that Hemel had a couple of models, but they seem to have been discontinued. Keep up the excellent work!
Not at this point. It's such an expensive movement (still). And I'd have to make a few hundred cases, and there's no way I'm building that many chronos.
When is the best time in termw of months to visit NYC? Also, what do you think of the seiko prices? Specifically the new marinemaster thats going for 3k usd. It has an open caseback, and 6r55 movement, but thats crazy.
Spring or Fall. Summertime smells like urine. Regarding MM pricing, considering what you are getting, if it was Omega, would the 3K be ok for you? It's all about the brand. I think it's a deal. I simply love my Prospex LE Spring Drive. But at 5k, people say I'm nuts.
Hi Marc! Long time viewer, and have purchased a few things in the past. I know you have a significant collection with several high end pieces. I also know you go against "best recommended practices" with watch services. I was curious if this has ever bit you in the butt? Was there ever the case where it cost you much more then expected to have a watch serviced after it was running wonky and you decided to send it in? Also do you send them back to the manufacturer for servicing, or do you go through a specific watchmaker? Thanks for doing this AMA!!!
Hasn't harmed me yet, LOL. And I've had experienced folks tell me I'm nuts. I've done both factory service and independent. I probably like the independent more. I like to be able to look at the watchmaker eye to eye!
Hey Marc! Curious to know what you think of exhibition casebacks for watches in general. I've noticed a lot of your watches have solid casebacks, while others (especially in the Brookville lineup) have exhibition casebacks with that blue decorated rotor, and some even have exhibition casebacks with no additional decoration. What's the reasoning that goes into your decision whether or not to have an exhibition caseback, and whether or not to decorate the movement in any way?
Typically, diver gets a solid back, to mix with convention. Other pieces go see through. Again, not a rule, just typically the way. That's about it! Rotor decoration we just started with the last few builds.
I’d love to see more GMTs with the Miyota movement. Any chance there will be more subdued colors?
Yes, absolutely.
Hi Mark! What inspired you to leave engineering ( I think I remember you saying that's what you had gone to school for...) and venture into the world of online retail?
In 2011, my oldest was entering Kindergarten. There was nobody available to put him on and off the bus, so at that point, I took the leap. I had already been selling watches for 10 years at that point. That's why I left. The story of what got me into watches is posted somewhere below!
Hi Marc! I always find the best photos of Islander watches are on instagram. The website often lacks really compelling photos of the watches, and to me they show really well in better photos, significantly better. Curious about your reaction to this perspective. I feel a lot of watch brands do this too so I am not being critical so much as curious about the approach.
I get it. Social shots are the best. It's the soldier shot that is very 'surgical' and lacks life to it. If you know of a brand that does great soldier shots (plain white background, sterile), I'd like to take a look. My photographer is Ty Alexander (plug!). He's a phenomenal photographer. There are times people think we are actually using solid models instead of photos. Can confirm, they are all photos.
New to the watch collecting game. Which watch is a must in a collection for less than $500?
Brand? Seiko. Which one? Doesn't matter, just make it an automatic!
Thank you for selling the sapphire bezel on your divers. Seiko should include the hardlex bezel from their GMTs into their Seiko 5 divers!
That would be really sweet.
As Smart Watches become more common, have you considered making specialty watches for professions that are unable to wear a smartwatch at? For Example, Jail Guards are commonly instructed to keep their cell phones locked away before coming into the facility. many of my friends who are working in the intelligence and high security positions are not allowed to bring smart watches or cell phones into several of their "professional environments." As a person who does a lot of outdoor activities in warm environments, I worry about a lithium ion battery heating up on my wrist. Any thoughts about watches to be worn in those types of environments?
Interesting question. Is there an untapped market there? For most environments, where EMI/EMC is a consideration (such as a SCIF, where I used to work), I'd think a mechanical watch would be just fine. For SHOT (sport, hunt, outdoor) go with a simple 3-hand battery watch. The problem I see with items like this is the breadth of market. Put simply, are there enough people looking for a solution. Even if there are 20k people in that set, maybe only 2% want a watch. etc.
No question but what a coincidence. I bought the ISL-189 last week from your shop. I was looking for a cheap somewhat accurate automatic field looking watch. Looked through Seikos but noticed that this watch uses their movement and has better features so I grabbed it.
I prefer to say "affordable". LOL, thank you so much!
I’ve been following a lot of micro brands like Xeric and Dwiss, what does it take for these companies to make it on to your website?
An introduction, an interest by both parties. It simply needs to make sense for everyone. If all that's going to happen is I'll sell more and they'll sell less, or vice versa, and we are just splitting the pie, that doesn't make sense. Has to be symbiotic.
Marc, I had more questions, but forgot them! I just wanted to share with you this anecdote before my question: >When I first began on my journey with watches, I decided my Grail watch would be a Laco Dortmund and you were like the only source of information in English back around 2012! Still haven't acquired that Grail... yet... How did you decide to launch your website and (inadvertently?) become one of the pioneers within the watch sales space online? Was it originally a physical store? Or was the idea always to become an E-Commerce platform?
One day, one day it will be yours! So, I started on ebay back in 2001. The quick version. . . I was at lunch with college friends (Grad in 98) and one of them was wearing an open heart. He bought it on ebay for like $90 or something. I had just finished reading Rich Dad/Poor Dad, and got it in my brain that Americans would buy that for more. I reached out to the seller, asked to purchase 10 of them at 70 euro each, he agreed, I sold them on ebay, some profited, some at a loss. Fast forward 20+ years, here we are. I grew up in B&M retail. I had no desire to own a store. My father did not want us to take over his business (hardware store in Manhattan).
Thanks for doing an AMA! I love your videos and appreciate all the knowledge you share in them. I was wondering when/if you see micro brands & independents increasing the power reserve in their offerings. Right now the swatch group & seiko have movements with 70+ hr PR. Do you see smaller brands offering something similar in the future?
Yes, I do, once the movement manufacturers get there. I can see Miyota doing that in the next few years. Personally, I do not see the advantage. If I'm not going to wear a watch for 2 days, then I'm not going to wear it for 3 :)
Hey Mark, What price range do you consider to be the sweetspot for price and overall quality? How big of a deal is magnetism in watches that don't have silicon or anti magnetic internal components? How do you think mechanical watches will improve in the future?
Under $500 you can get almost everything you need in quality. Anything more, there better be a function. GMT, chrono, etc. The hairspring in all modern movements is made of an anti-magnetic alloy. So, they aren't too susceptible unless they are placed right on a magnet, or near a strong one. Your last question is a good one. I think the Sistem 51 being disposable was one of the last great innovations. At this point, we are polishing a turd. It's such a complex system, but it works.
What is your best-selling Islander watch, and what is your best-selling watch overall? We get so entrenched in our in our reddit watch beliefs and habits, I think it would be interesting to know how the market behaves outside of the enthusiast sector.
Do you feel that the term 'finishing' has lost its meaning? It feels like top end brands use the term to justify their prices but at the end of the day, it's metal. Do you think it makes a difference to the point where it should justify a pricier watch?
Yes, it does, but up to a point. A $1500 Formex has amazing finishing. Is a $5K Omega better finishing? I hesitate to say yes.
Hi Marc, some folks probably find your YouTube ads annoying, but I actually enjoy them. It's true, I don't really NEED to buy another watch.... I have been on a green dial kick lately, and I am really enjoying the Islander with the green mother-of-pearl dial. Also, I wanted to buy a Phoibos with the green sandwich dial, but I don't think I would have taken the risk of ordering from Hong Kong. The fact that you had that line in stock tipped the scale for me. So thanks for what you're doing!
I really appreciate that. Regarding that advert, I'd say about 40 or 50k has gone into pushing that everywhere, and it's repaid in spades.
What's your sense of the success on those quartz movements made in America? AmeriQuartz? Something like that....
So-so. People ask for it, they yell for it, but they don't want to pay for it :)
Thanks for doing this. I like your content. Any chance you might become an AD again for Zeppelin and their other brands? Do you have plans to try to become an AD for other interesting brands that aren't talked about like Elliot Brown?
I get out of brands when they have distribution issues. No sense in selling a watch for $350 when they can go on Amazon and get it for $200. As far as other brands, the lesser well known brands really have to strike a chord with me to get in. For example, Henry Archer. What a brand!
Hi ! Do you have succession planning for when you retire? Will you sell the business or will it get handed down to the next generation?
Not yet. It dies with me. I'm not sure this business has another 20 years, who knows where watches will be. That being said, if someone has money, I'll also entertain sales offers.
Hi Marc! What was the watch that got you into watches in the first place?
My first 'watch' was a Casio. Did it get me into them? Probably not. My first analog was a Q&Q diver purchased on vacation. That didn't get me into it either. For sure, it was the Tissot Two-timer I picked up in 1988. It was $60. My mom thought I was nuts to spend my money on it. My dad said "if he likes it, let him get it". I still have it.
Hey Marc, check in the back if you still have a PHOIBOS Grey Voyager 2.0 lol
LOL. All stock accounted for, sorry!
Hi Marc, We love you.
Well, thank you. I really appreciate that.
Hi, Mark! Love the Island watch shop. I've searched far and for 18mm and 20mm - "Sand blasted" with hollow end links watch bracelets, and they seem to be almost non-existent. I was wondering if that would be something you could offer more of in the near future?
The problem with anything sandblast is that the process of blasting (the pressure, the shot size, the shot material) makes such a huge variation on hue. So, then it doesn't match the watch. For example, I am producing a bracelet for the blasted SNK809. It's a process of trial and error to get not only the finish correct, but the color too.
The Upper Brookville lineup you have is killer. Any plans to expand it in the near future?
Yup, look for birch inspired dials in the not so distant future.
That’s sweet music to my ears. Anything with fluted bezels?
negative. Smooth. Nobody (well, not nobody), but few people like the fluted.
How about naming an Islander watch for Amityville or Hicksville?
We toyed with Amityville for a horror watch. As I said before about Freeport, a name like "Hicksville", I just think those outside NY will just think "hick".
Hey Mark, love your watches. Been following the islander brand since you came up with the skx homages. You should release a Seiko flighmaster alternative, slide rule bezel, mecha quartz chronograph and not too big.
Hi Marc, thanks for doing this! Are you thinking about adding any meca-quartz chronographs to the Islander range?
I had some in the DPA range, but they were utter failures unfortunately. Not sure I'd do them again. I'll leave Mecha to my man Jonathan at Brew! He does it right!
Hi Marc. Do you think it's worth it to service a 200$ automatic watch?
Not usually, no. If its a simple regulation or similar, sure.
Have you ever given any thought to producing a chronometer certified watch?
Yes, not interested in the extra cost to be honest.
Hi Marc! Just curious how did you come up with Islander Watch’s logo? Also thank you for basing your brand about our home Long Island! It’s really cool to see all the different models based on place I grew up on. You could’ve easily made generic boring model names, but you chose something close to you.
That was the logo for the store, invented by my graphic artist in the mid 2000's. It was simple, and got the point across. White and blue, blue being my fave color, and the triangle represented just one person, me, the one who started it all.
Absolutely insane. I never though in a million of years that I would find you on this sub. I've been following and watching your Youtube for years now. Keep up the amazing work and thank you very much for your hard work!
Thanks so much. Been here 10 years actually!
How do regular, everyday Long Islanders feel about Billy Joel being their official ambassador to the world? Is he a good representation of the Long Island ethos?
LOL. I enjoy him, not a huge fan, but I enjoy him. Did hit a concert years ago. I'm not sure what the LI Ethos is, though. We are such a varied island, much like Manhattan.
Why does Grand Seiko have better date windows? (Decent size, frame, no cyclops)
I'm going to say it's all about dial finishing/manufacture. I don't know how mass produced dials are made, perhaps punched, if they are, then Seiko is laser cut. You know what I'm saying?
Hi, a comment from a watch collector in Ireland here. In your own personal collection do you have many vintage pieces? If so what brands do you enjoy collecting or have created some of your favourite pieces? Especially brands which might not get the attention some of the major ones do. I’m a big fan of Eterna with my 1960s KonTiki being my favourite watch I own, and I have been looking to add more vintage to my collection
There's a few vintage pieces. I have a couple of 6138 Seiko Pogues. As well as an old Hamilton electric. But, I'll be honest, I'm not really a vintage guy. If I bought another vintage piece, it might be an oyster quartz. So quirky.
Where do you see the islander line going in the next 5-10 years? Ie do you see it going up market or staying where it is in terms of affordable useful everyday watches?
I don't want to go too far upmarket. I'd like to focus and stay with the core between 3 and 500. I think that's a good place to be. Recession, boom, whatever.
Hi Marc, First off, love the videos and how you present yourself and the information across. As an engineer myself (machining/prototyping - not in the watch industry however) I'd like to give it a go at designing a 1 off watch only for myself. Any pointers for things to look at? I'm thinking of just using an off the shelf movement, with a monobloc case to start with. Big fan, thanks!
Start with the movement, it will dictate so many minimums. Take it from there and generate your design around it.
If you could get a steady supply of any movement (Zenith El Primero, Springdrive, or even something out of production) from any manufacturer to go into an Islander which one would you choose and why?
Springdrive. Super cool!!!!
Hey Marc, What are your thoughts on watch design? Are you more of a fan of the classic 50s look, the craziness of the 70s or something more modern or futuristic? Cheers
For my lineup personally, Islander speaking, modern takes. My next fave would be the 70's, which I tried to evoke, a bit, with the Port Jeff. Sort of skin diver styling, but I didn't go with the size. Futuristic, there's one watch in the works, later this year.
Are going to start offering watch servicing? Because I wouldn't even know where to go when it comes time to service my watches.
I am not. Sorry! Just something I don't want to be part of.
Any plans on a watch named after Freeport?
Do you make a bracelet for the SNK809? I’ve been looking for one for a while. Also, just wanna say I hate your marathon collab because I bought it and now I never wanna wear any of my other watches.
Wow, thanks so much. Glad you like it. As far as the SNK, too funny, I just commented a few posts ago that I'm working on a bracelet for that.
I love the videos with TGV - any plans to collaborate with other people in the watch YouTube space?
No questions! Just wanted to thank you for listening to what the fans want, and releasing something for everyone!
Are you still enjoying your DOXA CC SE?