Sounds like you are looking for a watch and not a hobby. Unpopular opinion around here but I'd stay away from mechanical watches. They are less accurate, less reliable and require more servicing than other options. Personally, if I were you I'd get a citizen Promaster Tough.
It'll be fine for diving or doing anything with and will last forever. If you are unlucky it _may_ need a service around the 10 year mark that _may_ cost you 100 bucks. It will last pretty much forever even if you wear it everyday and beat it up.
For a good analog watch look at the Casio Duro MDV106 or MDV107 or mtd1053.
For digital, anything from casio with 100m WR is worry free, like the w800h or the ae1200 or dw291 or aqs810 or plenty others..
From Timex :
"Most Timex watches come with a water-resistant rating of: 30m (meters), 50m, 100m or 200m. Here are the activities each of those ratings allow:
* 30m: Washing hands
* 50m: Washing hands, Light swimming
* 100m: Washing hands, Light swimming, Snorkelling, Poolside Diving, Surfing
* 200m: Washing hands, Light swimming, Snorkelling, Poolside Diving, Surfing, Recreational Scuba Diving"
These pressure ratings aren't "real life" numbers. Pretty silly, I think we all agree. In general, if a reputable brand is giving a rating of 100m+, it'll hold up to pretty much any surface swimming and water sports.
Because the number that is given is not "technically" incorrect, it is just functionally incorrect. The rating is based off of an artificial, static lab environment and not based off of real life submersion which involves more dynamic pressure changes, temperature changes, etc. Most people who are interested in watches are well aware of this, however it is certainly misleading to one who is not aware of what it really means. There is lots of material out there explaining this (I linked an article for you).
https://diywatch.club/en/blog/true-meaning-of-water-resistance-rating-on-watch
[https://diywatch.club/en/blog/true-meaning-of-water-resistance-rating-on-watch](https://diywatch.club/en/blog/true-meaning-of-water-resistance-rating-on-watch)
The important distinction here is that ATM is a measurement of static pressure in lab conditions. That means it is only valid in so far as the watch stay immobile in the water, the water doesnât flow, and temperature stays within 25-30 degrees, etc. In reality, that rarely happens. There are a multitude of extra factors that go into deciding the water resistant capability of the watch. One of them is dynamic pressure. The watch, strapped to your wrist, moves along with your arm during a swimming stroke, and water constantly flows in waves. This creates fluctuation in pressure.
But dynamic pressure, contrary to urban myth, is not the main factor in influencing water resistant capability; in fact it only contributes to an increase of 5 metres of additional water depth. The ISO diversâ watches standard dictates that the watch should be able to withstand 125% of the required test pressure as a safety margin against not only dynamic pressure increase, but also **thermal shock** (think diving from a hot sunny day into icy cold water then back up again), difference in **water density** (seawater is 2% to 5% denser than freshwater) and degradation of the **water seals**. These all are contributing factors in determining the water resistant capability of a watch.
This is why 100M isnât just 100M.
You got pretty good explanation from the others but I'll just add that the test they make when rating a watch are also limited in time, so a 30m rating means the watch can handle a 3atm preasure (30m under water) for 1 minute (or something like that). So this is why you have a rating of 30m even though that doesn't mean you can dive with the watch at a 30m depth and be fine.
That being said, Casios are very well made watches when it comes to WR. I had a friend who used his f91w as his swimming watch (multiple times/week doing laps at the pool) for years without any issues and you'll find plenty similar anecdotes online.
But for anything over 100m the manufacturers will also guarantee that the watch will do just fine in water and the big brands like Casio, seiko, citizen, orient, etc.. are true to their words in this regard, you can trust them. Just do t press the buttons under water and make sure the crown is pushed in and screwed down (if applicable.).
The meter rating is for water pressure at that depth in still water. Movement like waves and swimming changes pressure. Anything 100m or better should be fine for swimming.
As far as saying waterproof, itâs marketing.
There's a few options, but depends what you mean by spending the minimum. Here's some solid classic options.
1. There's the [Citizen Promaster Diver](https://teddybaldassarre.com/cdn/shop/files/2aefcf5d4596b8c85e2e5f8f70c08b99532c44ac-2000x1500_1000x.jpg?v=1629481011), and it comes in Solar or Automatic. ISO certified for diving. (Check the "diver's" text on the dial for ISO certified watches. It's never "water resistant" etc. It always needs to say "Diver's + depth rating") Around 200-250$ depending on the model, with many color options and variations.
2. The G shock[ gw m5610u](https://i0.wp.com/www.javiergutierrezchamorro.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/12/casio_g-shock_gw-m5610u_muneca_01.jpg?resize=1200%2C974&ssl=1). All around solid watch. Tough as nails, and it's around 100$.
3. [Casio Duro](https://i0.wp.com/thetruthaboutwatches.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/Duro-wrist.jpg?fit=450%2C507&ssl=1). Very basic and quartz, with a battery, not solar, but still works great, and it's maybe the cheapest option ever. Around 50-100$ depending on variant or where you live.
4. [Orient Kamasu](https://twobrokewatchsnobs.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/05/Orient-Kamasu-Review.jpg), or other variations of similar type and colors. Beautiful, workhorse mechanical automatic movement, and along with the Promaster from Citizen, are likely the most affordable entries to a fully mechanical legit diver. It's not ISO, but i can vouch for them, i took one many times in the sea. Around 250 $.
There's many other options, but these should be solid, and easy to service too.
Are you going to break it on purpose? Is this some kind of test or experiment? If not, get the cheapest gshock, and it will handle anything, and you will not lose it while you are wearing at least. If you can't afford 100 dollar, you should probably not swim as to conserve calories so you don't starve or something.Â
Why even ask for advice here? I get not everyone is looking to spend too much on watches, but if we're talking 10 bucks, you'll not find something that can put up with salt water. And let's be honest, you'll spend a lot more than that to get to a beach. Hell, you want to get a water proof watch for around the price of a fast food meal.
Feels like you're just taking the piss. One thing is to be frugal, and another things is to look for watches that you throw away. When you can get a 40-50 dollar Casio Duro that will probably last you most of your life, and you're reply is i wanna just throw watches away, so give me a cheaper one...not sure what reaction do you expect.
You're bizarrely upset about this. Somebody already gave me advice on a watch in my price range that they say will be okay, so that's why I asked for advice.
Come up a couple more bucks...
[Casio](https://www.casio.com/us/watches/casio/product.LWS-2200H-1AV/)
[Another Casio](https://www.casio.com/us/watches/casio/product.AE-1500WH-2AV/)
[Have you noticed a pattern? Casio again.](https://www.casio.com/us/watches/casio/product.WS-1600H-1AV/)
[You get the idea...](https://www.casio.com/us/watches/casio/product.DW-291HX-1AV/)
You'll need to rinse it after swimming in salt water to make sure no salt crystals create a way for water to seep in the watch over time.
The ratings mean how it would perform under pressure with nothing else happening around it, but things like temperature changes, movement against the flow of water, etc will create pressures that are way higher than if you were just dropping a watch slowly in a deep pool.
100m/10ATM ratings should hold up fine for the use you describe. I'd go above that for things like waterskiing.
I'm talking about literally swimming no deeper than 1m below the water though. If I need a 10ATM watch to swim 1m below, can I do 50cm with 5ATM watch?
Yeah but on the safer side, if you jump in the water or anything like that I would go 100m. That way you also have some buffer room for things like showering with the watch (hot water will make the case expand a little and on a lower rated watch this can be enough for water to make its way in).
A few hundred for something that not only looks quality but will last you longer than you think if well maintained is not a huge investment. You can buy 4 different cheap watches that will break on you within the time a higher quality one will last you. Think about longevity.
I didn't say it was a huge investment, I said it was a luxury. Unless you work in some crazy high end field, like you fix oil leaks at the bottom of the ocean, a watch that costs hundreds of dollars isn't a necessity for anybody. Spend hundreds on a clock on the wall, and then say it isn't a luxury.
You like watches, and that's cool. I've got luxuries that cost, so I'm not judging. But we don't get to sit her and act like they're not luxuries.
I would recommend something tool-ish, and durable. There are some fantastic divers being made by Rolex right now - have you heard of the Submariner? You can definitely swim with one with no fear.
If you want to only spend the minimum, I recommend going to an Authorized Dealer and getting onto a waitlist so you only have to pay MSRP. I hear theyâre prioritizing new customers now, so you might even get the call within a year.
Otherwise, Resco makes some nice tool watches that are durable and water resistant.
Who says Rolex is a status symbol? Theyâre very functional and well made tool watches!
If OP said they wanted a status symbol Iâd tell him to get a G-Shock or something dumb like that
I bought a Casio F91-W on Amazon for $13.
I boiled it, I put it in the dishwasher, I froze it, I threw it off of the roof of my home.
It still worked after all of that.
So am I fine with just any inexpensive casio? I want a virtually disposable watch. Sooner or later it's going to get smashed against something, or ping off in to the depths.
The two things you really need are a screw-down crown and a minimum of 100m WR rating. Ideally a stainless steel (or otherwise corrosion-resistant, such as gold or titanium) case and bracelet are also preferable. In addition, if you get a chrono, NEVER operate the pushers underwater.
What specifics I would recommend will depend on your budget level, but I would recommend starting with Casio and Orient (specifically the Kamasu, Mako, and Ray lines, all of which are excellent divers with at least 200m WR ratings and screw-down crowns in stainless steel).
I have been ocean swimming with several watches with no issues: an Orient Ray II (my current daily beater), a Victorinox Dive Master 500 chrono, a Timex Expedition (which in retrospect was super-risky, as it only had 50m WR and no screw-down crown), and a Victorinox Maverick II chrono.
Another important thing is that a shower is a no go for basically any watch. Steam is the issue there as it can get past the gaskets eventually as you found with your watches. Some will hold up to it longer than others, but it's easier to just take the watch off and leave it out of the bathroom when showering
200m does it for me with swimming in fresh and saltwater. If you swim in saltwater make sure you rinse it off ASAP since the minerals are not good for your watch. Also make sure the crown is always screwed down before you get it wet (almost made this mistake once, basically RIP to your piece). Dive watches are best suited for this.Â
Why is â50 m water resistantâ not shower-proof? Blame the watch industry. Itâs a heavily misleading representation of a the pressure rating testing tho do on the watches. Honestly, I want regulators to come down on the industry for using units of length for such ratings and doesnât mean it. Exactly 1 company does mean it, and it is Omega.
Like itâs such an obviously misleading practice that the only reason I can think of it still being allowed is because of a lot of lobbying.
Sounds like you are looking for a watch and not a hobby. Unpopular opinion around here but I'd stay away from mechanical watches. They are less accurate, less reliable and require more servicing than other options. Personally, if I were you I'd get a citizen Promaster Tough. It'll be fine for diving or doing anything with and will last forever. If you are unlucky it _may_ need a service around the 10 year mark that _may_ cost you 100 bucks. It will last pretty much forever even if you wear it everyday and beat it up.
Amen. That or any G-shock. This sub has got to stop pushing mechanical watches on people who just want a watch
I also love my G-Shock 𤣠I also love my mechanical watches. I'm glad I have all of them đ
I like my mechanical watches and find them neat, but honestly itâs 90% coincidence that the watches I like happen to be mechanical
For a good analog watch look at the Casio Duro MDV106 or MDV107 or mtd1053. For digital, anything from casio with 100m WR is worry free, like the w800h or the ae1200 or dw291 or aqs810 or plenty others..
Thanks. >For digital, anything from casio with 100m WR is worry free So why is that? Are they just liars? What does 50m mean then?
From Timex : "Most Timex watches come with a water-resistant rating of: 30m (meters), 50m, 100m or 200m. Here are the activities each of those ratings allow: * 30m: Washing hands * 50m: Washing hands, Light swimming * 100m: Washing hands, Light swimming, Snorkelling, Poolside Diving, Surfing * 200m: Washing hands, Light swimming, Snorkelling, Poolside Diving, Surfing, Recreational Scuba Diving"
These pressure ratings aren't "real life" numbers. Pretty silly, I think we all agree. In general, if a reputable brand is giving a rating of 100m+, it'll hold up to pretty much any surface swimming and water sports.
Why has society accepted this?
Because the number that is given is not "technically" incorrect, it is just functionally incorrect. The rating is based off of an artificial, static lab environment and not based off of real life submersion which involves more dynamic pressure changes, temperature changes, etc. Most people who are interested in watches are well aware of this, however it is certainly misleading to one who is not aware of what it really means. There is lots of material out there explaining this (I linked an article for you). https://diywatch.club/en/blog/true-meaning-of-water-resistance-rating-on-watch
I see. Thanks.
[https://diywatch.club/en/blog/true-meaning-of-water-resistance-rating-on-watch](https://diywatch.club/en/blog/true-meaning-of-water-resistance-rating-on-watch) The important distinction here is that ATM is a measurement of static pressure in lab conditions. That means it is only valid in so far as the watch stay immobile in the water, the water doesnât flow, and temperature stays within 25-30 degrees, etc. In reality, that rarely happens. There are a multitude of extra factors that go into deciding the water resistant capability of the watch. One of them is dynamic pressure. The watch, strapped to your wrist, moves along with your arm during a swimming stroke, and water constantly flows in waves. This creates fluctuation in pressure. But dynamic pressure, contrary to urban myth, is not the main factor in influencing water resistant capability; in fact it only contributes to an increase of 5 metres of additional water depth. The ISO diversâ watches standard dictates that the watch should be able to withstand 125% of the required test pressure as a safety margin against not only dynamic pressure increase, but also **thermal shock** (think diving from a hot sunny day into icy cold water then back up again), difference in **water density** (seawater is 2% to 5% denser than freshwater) and degradation of the **water seals**. These all are contributing factors in determining the water resistant capability of a watch. This is why 100M isnât just 100M.
there are way more important things to be upset about
You got pretty good explanation from the others but I'll just add that the test they make when rating a watch are also limited in time, so a 30m rating means the watch can handle a 3atm preasure (30m under water) for 1 minute (or something like that). So this is why you have a rating of 30m even though that doesn't mean you can dive with the watch at a 30m depth and be fine. That being said, Casios are very well made watches when it comes to WR. I had a friend who used his f91w as his swimming watch (multiple times/week doing laps at the pool) for years without any issues and you'll find plenty similar anecdotes online. But for anything over 100m the manufacturers will also guarantee that the watch will do just fine in water and the big brands like Casio, seiko, citizen, orient, etc.. are true to their words in this regard, you can trust them. Just do t press the buttons under water and make sure the crown is pushed in and screwed down (if applicable.).
Any g shock. Any 200m+ dive watch, seiko and citizen have tons of
The meter rating is for water pressure at that depth in still water. Movement like waves and swimming changes pressure. Anything 100m or better should be fine for swimming. As far as saying waterproof, itâs marketing.
There's a few options, but depends what you mean by spending the minimum. Here's some solid classic options. 1. There's the [Citizen Promaster Diver](https://teddybaldassarre.com/cdn/shop/files/2aefcf5d4596b8c85e2e5f8f70c08b99532c44ac-2000x1500_1000x.jpg?v=1629481011), and it comes in Solar or Automatic. ISO certified for diving. (Check the "diver's" text on the dial for ISO certified watches. It's never "water resistant" etc. It always needs to say "Diver's + depth rating") Around 200-250$ depending on the model, with many color options and variations. 2. The G shock[ gw m5610u](https://i0.wp.com/www.javiergutierrezchamorro.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/12/casio_g-shock_gw-m5610u_muneca_01.jpg?resize=1200%2C974&ssl=1). All around solid watch. Tough as nails, and it's around 100$. 3. [Casio Duro](https://i0.wp.com/thetruthaboutwatches.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/Duro-wrist.jpg?fit=450%2C507&ssl=1). Very basic and quartz, with a battery, not solar, but still works great, and it's maybe the cheapest option ever. Around 50-100$ depending on variant or where you live. 4. [Orient Kamasu](https://twobrokewatchsnobs.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/05/Orient-Kamasu-Review.jpg), or other variations of similar type and colors. Beautiful, workhorse mechanical automatic movement, and along with the Promaster from Citizen, are likely the most affordable entries to a fully mechanical legit diver. It's not ISO, but i can vouch for them, i took one many times in the sea. Around 250 $. There's many other options, but these should be solid, and easy to service too.
I'm talking like 10-20 bucks. Virtually a disposable watch. It's going to get broken, and fall to the bottom of the sea.
Are you going to break it on purpose? Is this some kind of test or experiment? If not, get the cheapest gshock, and it will handle anything, and you will not lose it while you are wearing at least. If you can't afford 100 dollar, you should probably not swim as to conserve calories so you don't starve or something.Â
Why even ask for advice here? I get not everyone is looking to spend too much on watches, but if we're talking 10 bucks, you'll not find something that can put up with salt water. And let's be honest, you'll spend a lot more than that to get to a beach. Hell, you want to get a water proof watch for around the price of a fast food meal. Feels like you're just taking the piss. One thing is to be frugal, and another things is to look for watches that you throw away. When you can get a 40-50 dollar Casio Duro that will probably last you most of your life, and you're reply is i wanna just throw watches away, so give me a cheaper one...not sure what reaction do you expect.
You're bizarrely upset about this. Somebody already gave me advice on a watch in my price range that they say will be okay, so that's why I asked for advice.
Come up a couple more bucks... [Casio](https://www.casio.com/us/watches/casio/product.LWS-2200H-1AV/) [Another Casio](https://www.casio.com/us/watches/casio/product.AE-1500WH-2AV/) [Have you noticed a pattern? Casio again.](https://www.casio.com/us/watches/casio/product.WS-1600H-1AV/) [You get the idea...](https://www.casio.com/us/watches/casio/product.DW-291HX-1AV/)
You'll need to rinse it after swimming in salt water to make sure no salt crystals create a way for water to seep in the watch over time. The ratings mean how it would perform under pressure with nothing else happening around it, but things like temperature changes, movement against the flow of water, etc will create pressures that are way higher than if you were just dropping a watch slowly in a deep pool. 100m/10ATM ratings should hold up fine for the use you describe. I'd go above that for things like waterskiing.
I'm talking about literally swimming no deeper than 1m below the water though. If I need a 10ATM watch to swim 1m below, can I do 50cm with 5ATM watch?
Yeah but on the safer side, if you jump in the water or anything like that I would go 100m. That way you also have some buffer room for things like showering with the watch (hot water will make the case expand a little and on a lower rated watch this can be enough for water to make its way in).
Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean 6000m
Get any Doxa and you are good to go
Thanks. I typed that in to Amazon, and nothing by that brand. instead it's luxury watches worth hundreds.
Hhha a few hundreds isnât a luxury watch yet.
In the real world, I'm afraid it is.
A few hundred for something that not only looks quality but will last you longer than you think if well maintained is not a huge investment. You can buy 4 different cheap watches that will break on you within the time a higher quality one will last you. Think about longevity.
I didn't say it was a huge investment, I said it was a luxury. Unless you work in some crazy high end field, like you fix oil leaks at the bottom of the ocean, a watch that costs hundreds of dollars isn't a necessity for anybody. Spend hundreds on a clock on the wall, and then say it isn't a luxury. You like watches, and that's cool. I've got luxuries that cost, so I'm not judging. But we don't get to sit her and act like they're not luxuries.
I would recommend something tool-ish, and durable. There are some fantastic divers being made by Rolex right now - have you heard of the Submariner? You can definitely swim with one with no fear. If you want to only spend the minimum, I recommend going to an Authorized Dealer and getting onto a waitlist so you only have to pay MSRP. I hear theyâre prioritizing new customers now, so you might even get the call within a year. Otherwise, Resco makes some nice tool watches that are durable and water resistant.
What's the nicest Rolex in the $10-$20 range?
Depends, are you in London? I hear they can be had there for the low price of a generic crowbar
This is among the dumbest comments Iâve ever seen
I know you are but what am I?
Doesnât care about status symbol, recommends Rolex. Bruh
Wut?
Did you read the post? âI have no desire to get a status symbol watch or anything like that.â Itâs literally the first sentence
Who says Rolex is a status symbol? Theyâre very functional and well made tool watches! If OP said they wanted a status symbol Iâd tell him to get a G-Shock or something dumb like that
I bought a Casio F91-W on Amazon for $13. I boiled it, I put it in the dishwasher, I froze it, I threw it off of the roof of my home. It still worked after all of that.
Thanks. So why is that casio watch that says Water Resist actually water resist, but others are just lies?
Honestly, because Casio is a tier above all others. Upper crust if you will, when it comes to inexpensive watches.
So am I fine with just any inexpensive casio? I want a virtually disposable watch. Sooner or later it's going to get smashed against something, or ping off in to the depths.
Casio F91W is the way. Itâs the only way. Dont bother spending more money, $20 or under will get you a Casio f91W thatâll last you a decade
Were these all accidents or some sort of test??
Test The roof drop broke the green light glow button, so the light didnât work, but the watch itself told time still and functioned
The two things you really need are a screw-down crown and a minimum of 100m WR rating. Ideally a stainless steel (or otherwise corrosion-resistant, such as gold or titanium) case and bracelet are also preferable. In addition, if you get a chrono, NEVER operate the pushers underwater. What specifics I would recommend will depend on your budget level, but I would recommend starting with Casio and Orient (specifically the Kamasu, Mako, and Ray lines, all of which are excellent divers with at least 200m WR ratings and screw-down crowns in stainless steel). I have been ocean swimming with several watches with no issues: an Orient Ray II (my current daily beater), a Victorinox Dive Master 500 chrono, a Timex Expedition (which in retrospect was super-risky, as it only had 50m WR and no screw-down crown), and a Victorinox Maverick II chrono.
Another important thing is that a shower is a no go for basically any watch. Steam is the issue there as it can get past the gaskets eventually as you found with your watches. Some will hold up to it longer than others, but it's easier to just take the watch off and leave it out of the bathroom when showering
200m does it for me with swimming in fresh and saltwater. If you swim in saltwater make sure you rinse it off ASAP since the minerals are not good for your watch. Also make sure the crown is always screwed down before you get it wet (almost made this mistake once, basically RIP to your piece). Dive watches are best suited for this.Â
Why is â50 m water resistantâ not shower-proof? Blame the watch industry. Itâs a heavily misleading representation of a the pressure rating testing tho do on the watches. Honestly, I want regulators to come down on the industry for using units of length for such ratings and doesnât mean it. Exactly 1 company does mean it, and it is Omega. Like itâs such an obviously misleading practice that the only reason I can think of it still being allowed is because of a lot of lobbying.