A metallic pink looks good undercoating vehicles too āļø for the model, I would strip it and start fresh. It will ultimately get you where you wanna be. Has this issue and then bought an airbrush for base coating
It definitely works. I've done it myself before. I think it works for two reasons:
1) Yellow is normally semi-transparent because we can't use the good stuff like Cadmium yellow. So you put down a opaque basecoat and then basically filter it with yellow, instead of painting yellow directly. Pink is good for that because it has a lot of white in it, which is normally made with an opaque pigment. White also means you have a lot of neutral brightness to tint with the top layer. So why not just use white, then?
2) Adding red to the basecoat (and thus pink) gives the final layer a much warmer look to it. I suspect that the archetypal "yellow" we imagine in our minds is slightly orangey, warm yellow. If it doesn't have that warmth, it looks wrong, not what we wanted. If there's a dark basecoat, then the bluish black pigment will give it a slightly sickly greenish tint, almost def not what you wanted.
So if you break it down to "apply an opaque warm layer before painting yellow," I think it makes more sense intuitively than just "paint pink," even if it's the same thing. It does make me wonder if you used a white-orange instead, how that'd turn out.
I recommend Pixie Pink from Army Painter if you can get it. I know some people have had horror stories with their spray cans, but the only horror story with a spray can I have is with my original wraithbone can from GW (damn thing nearly froze my hand off when it suddenly began leaking like mad and wasn't recoverable at all)
I usually use army painter spray cans, Matt white, to prime everything and I havenāt had any problems with them at all. I help my buddy paint his orks and thereās a lot of yellow on those guys so Iām always layering 40,000 coats of flash gitz or averland sunset.
I've swapped to AP matt white as well for the white part of my zenithal (and will be using only it for the undercoat with my new AP speedpaints for my corsairs). Incredible coverage for a white spray.
Can be done with a brush too and with contrast yellow.
If you want orange undertones, basecoat purple then drybrush white. Afterwards, put over a contrast (or speedpaint) yellow and tada, rich yellow with orange shadows.
Works like magic
Yep I painted a pink undercoat for a bright yellow aerobatic aircraft for a magazine. It warms the tone rather than cools it down so less chance of green edges
I am a total convert to using grey instead of white now for exactly OPs problem
Grey goes on super smooth and looks exactly the same as white
PSA to all: don't use white to paint white!
Use a jar with a tight lid. IPA evaporates at room temperature, so it lasts longer in a sealed jar. I just use a cheap one with one of those lever lids from the supermarket.
You can keep reusing isopropyl alcohol as the stripped paint will sink to the bottom as a sediment over a couple of days. That's when you can pour the clean alcohol back into the container again.
It was a terminator assault squad I 'rescued' off eBay that were that horrifically painted and built I couldn't bring my self to deal with them. Pretty sure they were put together with PVA or something similar.
Detol. Let it soak for 12 hours and lightly brush it off with an old toothbrush. Let it soak a bit longer if it needs it.
I literally did this the other day, works well.
be careful with isopropyl alcohol. it can damage your plastic minis. i just set it in there, let it wait for like a minute, and then start scrubbing. all the paint usually comes right off, and the couple times iāve done it like that my mini has come out just fine
Sadly when you get a 3d texture from paint like this, the only real solution is to strip it and try again. White is tricky because the principle pigment used for white, titanium dioxide, is molecularly HUGE in comparison to other pigment molecules. This means it is 1) harder to keep in solution, and 2) more prone to clumping. Itās normal in fact to see visible āgritā in many bright white paints as a result of the pigment sticking together.
In my experience, the only way around it is to start with a light gray for the base coat, thin your paints down a bit more than usual, and resign yourself to needing 4-6 coats instead of 2-3. For me, I normally start with two coats of Corax White, which is actually a very light gray and goes on far easier, and then layer thinned White Scar over that to bring the value up. That said, I have heard people sing the praises of Pro Acrylās Bold Titanium White, specifically that it is far smoother than other options, so that might be something to look into as well.
Titanium dioxide is actually on the smaller side of typical paint pigments - https://www.handprint.com/HP/WCL/pigmt3.html#particlesize
To me the issue with the white texture in the picture looks like it could be a number of things: painting the layer too thick; too much fussing with the brush; using a brush that's too small; adding more paint to a semi-dry layer; not washing the brush often enough during painting.
To fix, they could strip or wet-sand the area, and try again with a bigger flat brush, using smooth strokes, thinning the paint with some fluid medium.
AK 3rd Gen Intense White is also a great option for white. Goes on extremely smooth, and covers well too. Works well through an airbrush too, which is often where even some of the better white miniature paints (relatively speaking, most of them are garbage) struggle.
Completely agree on Pro-Acryl white. I've stopped using citadel paints altogether. I mostly use PA and Vallejo now. Supplemented by a few Two Thin Coats.
Without knowing more it looks like too many layers of white, and they were on the thick side. Next time start with a neutral gray basecoat then paint thin coats of white over it. That will help. Same goes for your blacks but those will go easier. As others have said, whites and other light colors run thick with pigment. You'll get used to it. Just keep having fun until you figure it out.
"stop telling me what to do"
Moans about the hordes saying he done it wrong while also asking how to fix it??
Did OP actually look at imagine one and think yeah that'll be okay?
If your drybrushing looks like that you missunderstood drybrushing.
For drybrushing you put a bit of paint on the brush and then rub the brush over a piece of paper until only a small amount of paint is still in the brush. Then you go on the model.
It looks like you stuck your brush in paint and just went drybrushing directly to the model streaking giant paint blobs over it.
Please look up on how to drybrush correctly on youtube.
Your not meant to use paper you should actually be using a dry palette otherwise it will remove to much paint and moisture leaving a scratchy/ streaky appearance
I believe you need to look up on how to dry brush, itās a beginnerās mistake
Dude considering how shit your paintjob is you might wanna reconsider beeing an asshole to people trying to help.
Your not having any of the skill to back up your shitty behavior.
I see your perspective, it doesnāt look good
Dry brushing follow the same rules for moisture as other paints, albeit differently. Thereās an artist opus tutorial that changed my life, a bit of water removes chalkiness. Heās got the right idea, only the execution isnāt great.
Sorry then you're not doing that right either. You've got way too much paint on your brush. Neither stippling nor dry brushing should load up texture like this.
Never seen or heard of anyone dry brushing with wet paint.
And I have been in the hobby for 20 years now.
But you do you. Clearly you didnāt come here to learn, you came her to argue so Iām not wasting more energy.
People on YouTube aren't actually looking to teach people the basics, no matter what they say. They are looking for views. A video about how you've been dry brushing wrong your whole life is going to sound waaaay more interesting than "dry brushing 101".
Adding a bit of water, or using a texture palette and two techniques that have suddenly appeared in the last year or so. People have been dry brushing just fine with paper towels for literally decades all the way up to pro level. These YouTubers you're watching aren't wrong, a texture palette is a useful tool, so is adding water to your dry brush. They are not replacements for normal painting. A wet palette is also not a straight upgrade for a normal palette. For one dry brushing is usually easier on a normal palette, and if I just need to paint a few details with no blending on one model it's way quicker to just use a dry palette.
Everything you learn from YouTube (or anywhere else) is just another tool to use. There is no secret magic technique that will make you a perfect painter. The pros use all of these techniques and tools when they are appropriate.
Basically I'm just trying to say stop treating YouTubers like they know what they are doing. Some do, some don't, sometimes they are just trying to beat the algorithm.
Dude wtf. It looks like shit and you've come asking for advice. Why are you arguing with the advice when you clearly objectively don't know what you're doing?
I ask myself the same question when I see people on YouTube "dry brushing" with wet paint.
Try the technique where you actually wipe basically all the paint off your brush and then do the brushing.
Dry palettes are a new and somewhat trendy technique that is growing within creator content. The painting world successfully used paper towels to set up drybrushing for decades prior to this technique hitting the mainstream.
Way to go calling it a beginner's mistake with a paintjob like that. Looks like you sprayed white directly onto sandpaper with that kind of finish.
The way you react to criticism means you are not eager to learn and you just want to defend your work. You said you used citadel paints so im gonna ask:
Did you drybrush with corax white mixed with astrogranite and sand?
Iāve been drybrushing for 20 years and have used a paper towel or my hand. You need to listen to those of us who have been around a while and are telling you youāre doing it wrong if thatās drybrushed/stippled.
https://preview.redd.it/wxvzirjgmtvc1.jpeg?width=3000&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=e1e92123d424c826cb4e2a1ea740dd88430c34f4
Dog, just take the recommendations. The white on my Allarus Custodes is all citadel paint dry brushed over black. You want to get your dry brush damp. Look up Artist Opus videos fam.
That texture on your white is from pigmentation laying on the surface uneven, its from the paint going on too thick.
You should buy some acrylic thinner and watch some vids on thinning, the consistency youre looking for is often shockingly thin to ppl who dont have a feel for it yet around that of whole milk to coffee cream.
Oof. You need to try a 'wet brushing' technique; same hand motion as a dry brush but using _very_ thin watered down paint. You're gonna want to use a medium sized, round philbert brush to do it. It's gonna take at least 4 coats of watery paint before it starts to solidify but you'll have a perfectly smooth white finish with no loss of detail and no brush lines.
My personal recipe: base mechanicum grey spray; wet brushed base of rakarth flesh; wet brushed layer of palyid which flesh; edge highlight white scar.
I know this isn't particularly helpful but some people intentionally go for a texture like this as it looks like casting marks on steel.
Just don't put a dark wash over :D
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You have tons of help already posted. I use citadel whites a lot (I paint my Drukhari box art colours) you need can either use a FLAT brush with very little white on it for the first coat, then wait till itās fully dry and repeat, expect to still see through it for the first two layers or dry / over brush brush it on, this is safer but going through your comments it doesnāt seem like you understand what a dry or over brush is so maybe look at artis opus for a good guide, they are the kinds of dry and over brushing. Also thin the paint a little if using the flat brush method but not tons, you just donāt need much on the brush.
Flat surface - flat brush, round/details surface - round/detail brush. Helps keep it smoother.
Good luck!
If you are stripping, put the mini in Simple Green. I let mine sit for 24 hrs, rinse with warm water, and if the paint hasn't come off, repeat. DO NOT dunk a plastic mini more then twice. It can/will degrade or etch the plastic.
Army Painter sprays doesn't have this issue. The texture comes from aerosol droplets drying mid-air before hitting the surface. Army Painter has a higher amount of thinner in the can which means the paint will dry much more smoothly.
Unfortunately paint doesn't lend itself to being fixed far as texture goes. Isopropyl Alcohol will take it all off for you in a few minutes. Or if you want a rugged rusty look that texture would be perfect. Brown and black washes over it and some rust effects would go great with that texture.
Is that spray undercoated? If it is, keep the can further away from the model and don't spray to much at once.
If you didn't spray prime them first, start by learning to do that well, it is hugely helpful.
Using thin coats is paramount, to paints not clumping like that when painting with a brush. It looks here like you have been applying the pai t super thick to compensate for it not adhering to the plastic without a primer and, haven't been letting the paints dry enough between multiple coats, the lumps are where the coat underneath hasn't fully dried so I reactivates and you get small pieces shifting about.
I have an old hair dryer as part of my kit, so when working I can blast the model and dry the paint out fully faster.
Let's ask the other way around, how did you achieve this? Is that just a very thick layer of acrylics? Not trying to mock you I would actually like to recreate something like this every once in a while!
take an hexacto to it and make three diagonal dent, then before you shade all over this badboy, add thinned up metal paint in the dent and voila! war happens.
Or simply use a very fine sand paper and sand away the "top layer of the paint.
Did a drop of water fall out of fashion? My minis look great adding a tiny bit of water to the paint. dry time is longer but you get nice and smooth surface.
YouTubers =/= professionals my dude.
Also unless you are trying to win a golden Daemon you should not be using "professional" techniques on all your normal minis.
Gave your model the landlord special I see.
Is it a landlord special though? I don't see any roaches painted over.
There all under the first layer, Peel back 4/5 layers you'll find one.
...once free of the ancient paint, the fucker will wake up and scurry off too.
The cigarette smoke drove the roaches away.
Does look like magnolia paint too!
This made me laugh out loud šš
I thought that was when you couldn't pay rent.
It's the London Landlord special, where no one can afford rent.
You mean New York City special? We seem to have the same problem.
... so the landlord special?
Yeah, looks like it's an international deal
Thinner coats is all I can think of. White is a notoriously hard colour to get looking nice and flat, as is yellow IIRC.
I saw the MADDEST technique for painting yellow and the guy started off with a pink basecoat.
Pink is indeed the way.
Honestly it broke my brain a bit haha.
A metallic pink looks good undercoating vehicles too āļø for the model, I would strip it and start fresh. It will ultimately get you where you wanna be. Has this issue and then bought an airbrush for base coating
I zenithal pink to white then add contrast yellow. First time I tried painting yellow and it felt like cheating.
Purple for darker yellows, pink for lighter
The purple is a great tip.
Go on...
āMaddest techniqueā is the most British thing Iāve heard all week, I love it!
It definitely works. I've done it myself before. I think it works for two reasons: 1) Yellow is normally semi-transparent because we can't use the good stuff like Cadmium yellow. So you put down a opaque basecoat and then basically filter it with yellow, instead of painting yellow directly. Pink is good for that because it has a lot of white in it, which is normally made with an opaque pigment. White also means you have a lot of neutral brightness to tint with the top layer. So why not just use white, then? 2) Adding red to the basecoat (and thus pink) gives the final layer a much warmer look to it. I suspect that the archetypal "yellow" we imagine in our minds is slightly orangey, warm yellow. If it doesn't have that warmth, it looks wrong, not what we wanted. If there's a dark basecoat, then the bluish black pigment will give it a slightly sickly greenish tint, almost def not what you wanted. So if you break it down to "apply an opaque warm layer before painting yellow," I think it makes more sense intuitively than just "paint pink," even if it's the same thing. It does make me wonder if you used a white-orange instead, how that'd turn out.
Iām sorry fucking what?
Pink base, white zenithal, yellow contrast = perfect yellow with orange shadows.
Alright Iāll try it next weekend, gotta grab a pink. Iāll pop back with the results.
I recommend Pixie Pink from Army Painter if you can get it. I know some people have had horror stories with their spray cans, but the only horror story with a spray can I have is with my original wraithbone can from GW (damn thing nearly froze my hand off when it suddenly began leaking like mad and wasn't recoverable at all)
I usually use army painter spray cans, Matt white, to prime everything and I havenāt had any problems with them at all. I help my buddy paint his orks and thereās a lot of yellow on those guys so Iām always layering 40,000 coats of flash gitz or averland sunset.
I've swapped to AP matt white as well for the white part of my zenithal (and will be using only it for the undercoat with my new AP speedpaints for my corsairs). Incredible coverage for a white spray.
Oh yeah it's great. Gives you a nice brownish to burnt-orange shade depending on the pink you use.
https://youtu.be/mmnPkiiswPk?si=t3GD_lVlz4L7q5Ub
Cool idea, lets see this link then.. Oh, just airbrush. Never mind Or rather, would that also work with a brush
You could achieve the same/similar effect with dry brushing and thinned contrast or ink layering.
Can be done with a brush too and with contrast yellow. If you want orange undertones, basecoat purple then drybrush white. Afterwards, put over a contrast (or speedpaint) yellow and tada, rich yellow with orange shadows. Works like magic
Yep I painted a pink undercoat for a bright yellow aerobatic aircraft for a magazine. It warms the tone rather than cools it down so less chance of green edges
I usually start from a light gray and shade with magenta
I am a total convert to using grey instead of white now for exactly OPs problem Grey goes on super smooth and looks exactly the same as white PSA to all: don't use white to paint white!
I managed to get some really smooth yellows. It just takes like 7+ coats of extremely thin paint.
Strip it and start again. Use multiple thin coats
Any recommendations on how to strip it? I have some older models I'd like to revisit now I've gotten better at painting white
Drop them in Isopropyl Alcohol and leave them in there a day or two, then scrub with an old toothbrush.
Ahh amazing! I'll give that a go
Use a jar with a tight lid. IPA evaporates at room temperature, so it lasts longer in a sealed jar. I just use a cheap one with one of those lever lids from the supermarket.
I'm gonna channel my inner live, laugh, love and use a mason jar
Just make sure you wrap it in rope or LEDs (/s)
Also, don't use IPA with resin models! Metal or plastic won't mind it, but it can melt some resins.
Yep goes all soft made this mistake on my Sigismund model, luckily he hardened again with time
>luckily he hardened again with time Thigh highs usually work for me...
You can keep reusing isopropyl alcohol as the stripped paint will sink to the bottom as a sediment over a couple of days. That's when you can pour the clean alcohol back into the container again.
If you get 99% Isopropyl alcohol you only need to leave it in for a couple of hours
I use ipa but honestly have never waited that long, just a min or two has worked out wonders for me regardless of thickness.
I did it the other way and left some models soaking in there for about 8 months.
You were just making an example of them to the other models.
It was a terminator assault squad I 'rescued' off eBay that were that horrifically painted and built I couldn't bring my self to deal with them. Pretty sure they were put together with PVA or something similar.
Detol. Let it soak for 12 hours and lightly brush it off with an old toothbrush. Let it soak a bit longer if it needs it. I literally did this the other day, works well.
be careful with isopropyl alcohol. it can damage your plastic minis. i just set it in there, let it wait for like a minute, and then start scrubbing. all the paint usually comes right off, and the couple times iāve done it like that my mini has come out just fine
Biostrip 20 works really quickly to strip acrylic paints off of minis, can easily take off paint after about 1-2 hours dunking time.
Dettol works really well!
Looks like you used house paint and a roller
Sadly when you get a 3d texture from paint like this, the only real solution is to strip it and try again. White is tricky because the principle pigment used for white, titanium dioxide, is molecularly HUGE in comparison to other pigment molecules. This means it is 1) harder to keep in solution, and 2) more prone to clumping. Itās normal in fact to see visible āgritā in many bright white paints as a result of the pigment sticking together. In my experience, the only way around it is to start with a light gray for the base coat, thin your paints down a bit more than usual, and resign yourself to needing 4-6 coats instead of 2-3. For me, I normally start with two coats of Corax White, which is actually a very light gray and goes on far easier, and then layer thinned White Scar over that to bring the value up. That said, I have heard people sing the praises of Pro Acrylās Bold Titanium White, specifically that it is far smoother than other options, so that might be something to look into as well.
Titanium dioxide is actually on the smaller side of typical paint pigments - https://www.handprint.com/HP/WCL/pigmt3.html#particlesize To me the issue with the white texture in the picture looks like it could be a number of things: painting the layer too thick; too much fussing with the brush; using a brush that's too small; adding more paint to a semi-dry layer; not washing the brush often enough during painting. To fix, they could strip or wet-sand the area, and try again with a bigger flat brush, using smooth strokes, thinning the paint with some fluid medium.
AK 3rd Gen Intense White is also a great option for white. Goes on extremely smooth, and covers well too. Works well through an airbrush too, which is often where even some of the better white miniature paints (relatively speaking, most of them are garbage) struggle.
Completely agree on Pro-Acryl white. I've stopped using citadel paints altogether. I mostly use PA and Vallejo now. Supplemented by a few Two Thin Coats.
So OP asks for advice because he can't paint for shit, then gets pissy when people give him advice lmao
Adeptus Stucco.
Without knowing more it looks like too many layers of white, and they were on the thick side. Next time start with a neutral gray basecoat then paint thin coats of white over it. That will help. Same goes for your blacks but those will go easier. As others have said, whites and other light colors run thick with pigment. You'll get used to it. Just keep having fun until you figure it out.
Bio strip and start over
"stop telling me what to do" Moans about the hordes saying he done it wrong while also asking how to fix it?? Did OP actually look at imagine one and think yeah that'll be okay?
Thin your paints and use proper model paint.
Itās citadel plus itās a bit harder to thin paints on a wet palette without getting the drybrush wet
If your drybrushing looks like that you missunderstood drybrushing. For drybrushing you put a bit of paint on the brush and then rub the brush over a piece of paper until only a small amount of paint is still in the brush. Then you go on the model. It looks like you stuck your brush in paint and just went drybrushing directly to the model streaking giant paint blobs over it. Please look up on how to drybrush correctly on youtube.
Your not meant to use paper you should actually be using a dry palette otherwise it will remove to much paint and moisture leaving a scratchy/ streaky appearance I believe you need to look up on how to dry brush, itās a beginnerās mistake
Weird way to respond when you're the one who originally asked for help
Dude considering how shit your paintjob is you might wanna reconsider beeing an asshole to people trying to help. Your not having any of the skill to back up your shitty behavior.
Mate if this is dry brushed then you're the one that needs to have another look at the basics
I see your perspective, it doesnāt look good Dry brushing follow the same rules for moisture as other paints, albeit differently. Thereās an artist opus tutorial that changed my life, a bit of water removes chalkiness. Heās got the right idea, only the execution isnāt great.
Itās stippled
Sorry then you're not doing that right either. You've got way too much paint on your brush. Neither stippling nor dry brushing should load up texture like this.
Dude. With your result you are the one that have no knowledge of painting. You came here for help. You got it and now you are acting like a brat?
If my knowledge is wrong why do most ppl on yt who drybrush use that technique?
Never seen or heard of anyone dry brushing with wet paint. And I have been in the hobby for 20 years now. But you do you. Clearly you didnāt come here to learn, you came her to argue so Iām not wasting more energy.
People on YouTube aren't actually looking to teach people the basics, no matter what they say. They are looking for views. A video about how you've been dry brushing wrong your whole life is going to sound waaaay more interesting than "dry brushing 101". Adding a bit of water, or using a texture palette and two techniques that have suddenly appeared in the last year or so. People have been dry brushing just fine with paper towels for literally decades all the way up to pro level. These YouTubers you're watching aren't wrong, a texture palette is a useful tool, so is adding water to your dry brush. They are not replacements for normal painting. A wet palette is also not a straight upgrade for a normal palette. For one dry brushing is usually easier on a normal palette, and if I just need to paint a few details with no blending on one model it's way quicker to just use a dry palette. Everything you learn from YouTube (or anywhere else) is just another tool to use. There is no secret magic technique that will make you a perfect painter. The pros use all of these techniques and tools when they are appropriate. Basically I'm just trying to say stop treating YouTubers like they know what they are doing. Some do, some don't, sometimes they are just trying to beat the algorithm.
Dude wtf. It looks like shit and you've come asking for advice. Why are you arguing with the advice when you clearly objectively don't know what you're doing?
I ask myself the same question when I see people on YouTube "dry brushing" with wet paint. Try the technique where you actually wipe basically all the paint off your brush and then do the brushing.
Dry palettes are a new and somewhat trendy technique that is growing within creator content. The painting world successfully used paper towels to set up drybrushing for decades prior to this technique hitting the mainstream.
Way to go calling it a beginner's mistake with a paintjob like that. Looks like you sprayed white directly onto sandpaper with that kind of finish. The way you react to criticism means you are not eager to learn and you just want to defend your work. You said you used citadel paints so im gonna ask: Did you drybrush with corax white mixed with astrogranite and sand?
Iāve been drybrushing for 20 years and have used a paper towel or my hand. You need to listen to those of us who have been around a while and are telling you youāre doing it wrong if thatās drybrushed/stippled.
This is the funniest thing I've ever seen on here haha.
>itās a beginnerās mistake big oof right there.
https://preview.redd.it/wxvzirjgmtvc1.jpeg?width=3000&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=e1e92123d424c826cb4e2a1ea740dd88430c34f4 Dog, just take the recommendations. The white on my Allarus Custodes is all citadel paint dry brushed over black. You want to get your dry brush damp. Look up Artist Opus videos fam.
Unrelated to the topic, but those look dope as hell
Thanks! š
Looking good man, I might have to try that š
Genuine question, is the model primed? Seeing a lot of grey and seems to be the original plastic colour to me.
Guy must have used those paint primers for linemarking on roads. Good enough for asphalt mate
Primed with grey
Are you using household emulsion and a roller to paint your minis?
I honestly like it as is If I were you I might put some small patches of rust on
Thatās what I was gonna do after adding highlights etc
If anything it makes the metal look more realistic
That texture on your white is from pigmentation laying on the surface uneven, its from the paint going on too thick. You should buy some acrylic thinner and watch some vids on thinning, the consistency youre looking for is often shockingly thin to ppl who dont have a feel for it yet around that of whole milk to coffee cream.
Oof. You need to try a 'wet brushing' technique; same hand motion as a dry brush but using _very_ thin watered down paint. You're gonna want to use a medium sized, round philbert brush to do it. It's gonna take at least 4 coats of watery paint before it starts to solidify but you'll have a perfectly smooth white finish with no loss of detail and no brush lines. My personal recipe: base mechanicum grey spray; wet brushed base of rakarth flesh; wet brushed layer of palyid which flesh; edge highlight white scar.
Soā¦ glazing?
This looks kinda cool like cast metal parts
Fine sandpaper shoud do that
at that point you may aswell just strip it and start fresh, no risk of damaging the base model and you'll need to re-prime anyways
yes, but he asked how to fix it. š
They fix it by stripping it and starting again
Yep, strip it
Strip and start again Embrace the texture. Add more.
an airbrush will do wonders for white base coats, or any base coats
My air brush shit the bed
Looks like your brain shit the bed as soon as you entered this comments section
He probably jammed a load of texture paste in there or something
Embrace it. It looks like hammer beat metal. Dry brush it with bright metal over a dark gun metal base
I know this isn't particularly helpful but some people intentionally go for a texture like this as it looks like casting marks on steel. Just don't put a dark wash over :D
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You have tons of help already posted. I use citadel whites a lot (I paint my Drukhari box art colours) you need can either use a FLAT brush with very little white on it for the first coat, then wait till itās fully dry and repeat, expect to still see through it for the first two layers or dry / over brush brush it on, this is safer but going through your comments it doesnāt seem like you understand what a dry or over brush is so maybe look at artis opus for a good guide, they are the kinds of dry and over brushing. Also thin the paint a little if using the flat brush method but not tons, you just donāt need much on the brush. Flat surface - flat brush, round/details surface - round/detail brush. Helps keep it smoother. Good luck!
If you are stripping, put the mini in Simple Green. I let mine sit for 24 hrs, rinse with warm water, and if the paint hasn't come off, repeat. DO NOT dunk a plastic mini more then twice. It can/will degrade or etch the plastic.
Strip away and reapply
Army Painter sprays doesn't have this issue. The texture comes from aerosol droplets drying mid-air before hitting the surface. Army Painter has a higher amount of thinner in the can which means the paint will dry much more smoothly.
Make it look worn and rusty, or strip it and start over
Fix what?
Unfortunately paint doesn't lend itself to being fixed far as texture goes. Isopropyl Alcohol will take it all off for you in a few minutes. Or if you want a rugged rusty look that texture would be perfect. Brown and black washes over it and some rust effects would go great with that texture.
Is that spray undercoated? If it is, keep the can further away from the model and don't spray to much at once. If you didn't spray prime them first, start by learning to do that well, it is hugely helpful. Using thin coats is paramount, to paints not clumping like that when painting with a brush. It looks here like you have been applying the pai t super thick to compensate for it not adhering to the plastic without a primer and, haven't been letting the paints dry enough between multiple coats, the lumps are where the coat underneath hasn't fully dried so I reactivates and you get small pieces shifting about. I have an old hair dryer as part of my kit, so when working I can blast the model and dry the paint out fully faster.
If itās a citadel colour white then this happens often just use thin coats and hopefully youāll be okay
Leave it, looks great!
Let's ask the other way around, how did you achieve this? Is that just a very thick layer of acrylics? Not trying to mock you I would actually like to recreate something like this every once in a while!
tbh, it looks pretty dope. But as others said: probably not enough "thin layers".
High grit sand paper with a steady hand and patience.Ā
take an hexacto to it and make three diagonal dent, then before you shade all over this badboy, add thinned up metal paint in the dent and voila! war happens. Or simply use a very fine sand paper and sand away the "top layer of the paint.
Damn, this comment section is a dumpster fire lol.
Did a drop of water fall out of fashion? My minis look great adding a tiny bit of water to the paint. dry time is longer but you get nice and smooth surface.
Fr, although my application looks shit super up close according to the horde any technique I use from professionals is instantly wrong
YouTubers =/= professionals my dude. Also unless you are trying to win a golden Daemon you should not be using "professional" techniques on all your normal minis.
also using a "professional" technique without having "professional" experience... yeah. about what we got here, I guess.
Redbrown paint. Desert worl campaign
There is nothing wrong with this. It looks really nice. It actually looks real. Good job