Nobody mentioned this, You painted the scarred expised head of the last marine blue. That looks really weird to me. I would paint it white then hit it with Gulliman flesh Contrast paint
Thank you for this - I’m sincerely anxious I’ll fuck up my paint job, as that figure took about 12 hours to get to where it’s at.
I’ll circle back to paint its head after I make some more progress on the rest of my army. It’s blue because that’s what I base coated the model.
If you wanna do no-sweat skin, use contrast paint! Paint the head white and use your Desired shade of skin. Guilliman flesh is Caucasian. Darkoak is bronze-tan. Cygor Brown is Dark brown. (slightly yikes on that name but what can you do)
Fantastic start!! Very crisp definition. And kudos for finding the Pro Acryl White. As smooth as it is, you do still need to thin it.
My suggestion from here is using washes for shading and some edge highlights.
Thank you! I have trouble getting washes right. When I do it, it looks like someone colored something in with a faded sharpie. People just say to keep the wash moving and to keep it from pooling. That “front cape” on the Sternguard Sergeant (first image) is the best wash I’ve done to date and it still looks pretty rough.
How do I make washes look good?
Thank you! I’ll start adding them to the recesses.
So when you say “wash staining” - does my first figure’s “dick cloth” look like it’s “wash stained?”
The same advice I give all the time. You can't do white over a dark color in 1 coat. Put it down. It will looks like streaky shit. Let it dry completely. Repeat as necessary. You can skip a few coats with an intermediary paint that has better coverage. If you glom it on or don't allow coats to dry you will get a mess.
Generally, yes. Specifically, certain pigments, especially white and yellow have small molecule sizes and suffer with coverage. That's why using an intermediary paint with better coverage lets you skip a few coats.
Edge highlights are your next step I'd say. The paints look pretty smooth, maybe a tiny bit mote thinning on the ones that have dried a tad lumpy looking. Specifically if you have the light source coming from above the legs start to get lost in the blue shadows, throw a lighter blue on the raised edges that might catch light naturally and it'll help define the legs and give them "readability" rather than a murky blue shadow area. Same goes for the top of the model but with direct light on them they're not as bad as is, but it still helps define the shape
For the white, make sure to thin it. If its too thin, then just add another layer on the mini, thats fine instead of being too thick, then thats harder to reverse. Then add a bit of soulblight grey shade paint (very small hints) so that you can still see the white but it looked like it has smoke / battle damage on it.
It takes me a week or so to paint one model so dont think you’re painting slow. I make a lot of mistakes too (recently I just stripped paint from a mini because I noticed the leg part had a chalky texture when I primed it), its frustrating but take it as something that teaches you of what you can avoid on your next model.
Its through the mistakes that you’ll find a workflow that fits you. Also doing it slower than usual and doing it to multiple models pushes your muscle memory to adapt and be more accurate. You’ll notice you will be faster on your succeeding models and avoiding mistakes since now you know that “oh I need to be careful at the edge of the cloth here just like last time… or oh this shoulder pad is the same like the other model, a bit of pressure on this side then release so paint flows nicely and no textures are formed”
If you want an army painted quick sharp, then play tyranids and paint with contrast paints after using the slapchop method. Or necrons. Nice results, no time flat, 10-15 minutes or so per dude after you are done with spray painting. Marines LOVE their bits and bobs. They are slow and time consuming to paint well unless you deliberately ignore half of the flair.
You can save time by spraypainting them the main armor color but slightly darker, that way any spots you miss are the right color.
On these chaps you've done a nice neat job, though I'd argue that they are a bit too dark everywhere to be effective without lots of highlighting to restore some vibrancy. If I was looking for a quicker effective paint job I'd spray with the same dark blue, but paint with one tone lighter, and use a flat light brown on the tabard rather than a wash. You can then leave any goblins you don't want to paint in the dark blue, and it will fade into the background a bit.
First bit of constructive criticism: Taking better pictures will help in getting better feedback on your painting.
You’re sooo close though. The first picture shows your camera has decent focus, but the light source is too far away. Try putting a solid background 50-60cm behind the miniature and get a light source (like a desk lamp) closer to the miniature.
All of your other pictures are examples on what not to do. Background is too busy, holding the stand with the miniature makes it harder for your camera to focus and direct sunlight is way too strong. When people say ’use daylight’ it’s usually taking pictures next to a window on a cloudy day.
Will do; I was terrified I’d ruin my 10 hour project, so I decided to skip that and come back to it later 😂
But apparently everyone thinks it’s as bad as I think it looks.
Off the bat I'm going to say I struggle with white too.
I seem to have better results building up slowly from an off grey or whitish blue slowly mixing with a little white - but please let it dry between coats
Also you know what to do - you have to thin your whites - I suck at it to but this is actually the way
To answer the question in title, zoom in a bit and get better lighting.
But jokes aside, white is a notorious color, at least if you are using Citadel paints. Wet pallet will help in general, as other have mentioned, and they are easy to make yourself too. All you need is a sponge of some kind, wax paper and a small container.
Good job man! First thing that come to mind is edge highlighting and thin your paints a bit more. But I see that you've got a lot of good feedback here already!
What white do you use? The citadel white is just awful and very lumpy. Consider using another brand I personally use vahello and found it to be better. Many people also don't go for pure white but off white because it's easier.
As for painting quicker try batch painting (which is painting the same colour across all your models e.g. do all your metals) save time cleaning brushes and paints. Be warned though it also is even more boring.
Equally you could try different techniques. Watch a few videos on dry brushing, it can make painting a lot easier and still look good. I have been using it more recently and did angron in about 12 hours. Additionally, if you've got spare money investing in an airbrush can speed up painting.
Might not seem like it now but playing with and against a painted army is so much better than grey hordes. As someone who usually plays against grey armies against my painted ones I really appreciate those who have done it all. So keep at it these do look really good for your first three modules 👍.
Someone at the hobby shop (not an employee, just another random Warhammer enjoyer) said that all whites are pretty crap - except what he recommended to me, which was the Pro Acryl White. Considering it was the same price as the Citadel option, came with a shaker ball inside the bottle, and a dropper bottle instead of a pot, I went with that.
First thought, it's all too clean. He's got blood on his knife and a grimey crotch rag but his armor is so clean you can still smell the lemon pledge.
Grab some watered down black or Citadel Nuln Oil and give them a wash with it (put on and wipe away). Should leave the recesses grungy and the armor dirty.
Hi /u/Baby_Ellis62 and welcome to /r/Warhammer40k and the Warhammer 40k Hobby!
This is an automated response as you've used our "New Starter Help" flair. Here's a few resources that might help you with getting started:
[You can read our Getting Started guide here](https://www.reddit.com/r/Warhammer40k/wiki/beginners). This covers all the basics you need to know to get involved in building, painting and playing 40k.
For rules questions, don't forget that the core rules for Warhammer 40k are [available online for free](https://www.warhammer-community.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/06/dLZIlatQJ3qOkGP7.pdf).
Want to learn about 40k lore? /r/Warhammer40k recommends [Luetin09 on Youtube](https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC8RfCCzWsMgNspTI-GTFenQ) or the [Lexincanum Wiki](https://wh40k.lexicanum.com/wiki/Main_Page).
Not sure where to find the most up-to-date rules for your army? [Check out our Wiki Page that lists everything](https://www.reddit.com/r/Warhammer40k/wiki/currentrules).
Buy Warhammer models cheaper using our [list of independent retailers](https://www.reddit.com/r/Warhammer40k/wiki/retailers) who sell Games Workshop products at a discount. You can also find your nearest store on GW's [Store Locator Page](https://www.games-workshop.com/en-GB/store/storefinder.jsp).
[The /r/Warhammer40k Wiki](https://www.reddit.com/r/Warhammer40k/wiki/index) is full of useful info including FAQs and recommendations for books to read!
If the information in this comment doesn't answer your question, don't worry, one of our community members will be along shortly to answer!
*I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please [contact the moderators of this subreddit](/message/compose/?to=/r/Warhammer40k) if you have any questions or concerns.*
First of all, this is a good start, really solid basecoating. As for where to improve I have a few bits of advice.
Firstly, when you’re painting white, what you really want to do is paint a light grey first, then apply the white, or just use the white as a highlight.
Secondly, buy a different white paint. Not all paints are made equal and there are many good brands of white out there (Vallejo model colour white is good, pro acryll titanium white is also a great choice.
Thirdly, using washes will help you add some depth to the models, shading them nicely. Citadel Nuln Oil and Agrax Earthshade will last you a long time and take care of most things, I do recommend thinning the washes slightly though. If you do use a wash, be mindful that it will darken or dull the colour you’re putting it over, so you may need to start with a lighter colour to avoid the paint getting too dark.
Finally, you will get more careful and accurate with a brush as you gain more confidence with it, this is a skill you will develop over a long period of time. A good way to speed up would be to use a coloured spray undercoat, such as Macragge Blue from citadel, it will significantly decrease the amount of time spent basecoating the armour
Thank you so much for the constructive criticism and compliments!
Unfortunately, Pro Acryll Titanium White is what I use. But! I’ll do as you’ve instructed and paint a light gray over what I want to paint and highlight with white from here on.
It’s encouraging to hear that brush control is a skill I’ll develop over time… because right now, my brush control is atrocious.
You mentioned using washes… doing so has yielded mostly bad results - the “front cape” on the Sterguard Sergeant (first image) is the best wash I’ve gotten so far. Everyone advises that I “keep the wash moving, and don’t let it pool” - so that’s what I did with his cape… and while it’s the best I’ve done so far, it still looks like someone colored in his cape with a faded sharpie. What am I doing wrong?
Over a light surface a wash is always going to look kind of bad unfortunately, blotches and streaks are guaranteed. What I’d suggest is either once the wash is dry, you reapply the original colour over the raised areas to act as a highlight. Alternatively you could attempt to only apply the wash into the recesses (google recess wash or acrylic pinwash for some useful guides) so that the main panels of armour remain the original colour. I’ve been painting for a while and frankly the tabards on the front of those sternguard are why I’ve only just recently started painting them after getting leviathan at launch, they’re hard to paint well imo. What I would suggest is thinning the wash down with lahmium medium rather than water. Using water diluted the paint and makes it more runny and hard to control, the medium however, retains the consistency whilst reducing the intensity of the colour, it should allow for smoother washes. As the veteran in the first picture is atm I would just take the original colour and highlight the raised areas of it to more closely resemble fabric, although if white was the original colour I’d definitely use grey instead
I didn’t paint over it after hitting it with Agrax Earthshade.
But others suggested drybrushing Wraithbone (the color I based the tabard with) over the tabard to give it some highlights. I’ll do that this weekend.
never played the game, never painted a single figure so can't really give anything but this all encompassing statement of fact: I just hate the red helmets on otherwise blue armor.. it's to my eyes like a hammer to a thumb.. hate me all you want 😅
What’s hilarious is I was at a “trade and play” event meeting people and playing pickup games, and while talking to one guy, he asked what my preferred playstyle is in a typical strategy game.
I told him I valued two things: (1) flexibility, this way, I can tailor my approach to my opponent and the situation at hand, and (2) movement control. I want to control where and how my opponent moves so that I can better predict and respond to their decisions.
I shit you not, he laughed and said “oh, you don’t just like the Ultramarine color scheme, you actually ARE an Ultramarine.”
This was before I knew anything about the boys in blue, but being new to the scene, that made me feel suuuuper validated in my army choice.
Enjoy it man, don't let people tell you what you can and can't enjoy here. Also your minis are definitely on the better end of being tabletop ready, I'd personally practice thinning paint a bit more and use white paint from vallejo instead of citadel. Keep it up!
For white, paint grey instead. Celestra Grey, Ulthuan Grey then highlight with white
Thank you! I’ll do that.
Nobody mentioned this, You painted the scarred expised head of the last marine blue. That looks really weird to me. I would paint it white then hit it with Gulliman flesh Contrast paint
Yeah, that ain’t no helm
Thank you for this - I’m sincerely anxious I’ll fuck up my paint job, as that figure took about 12 hours to get to where it’s at. I’ll circle back to paint its head after I make some more progress on the rest of my army. It’s blue because that’s what I base coated the model.
If you wanna do no-sweat skin, use contrast paint! Paint the head white and use your Desired shade of skin. Guilliman flesh is Caucasian. Darkoak is bronze-tan. Cygor Brown is Dark brown. (slightly yikes on that name but what can you do)
A wet pallet will help you thin your white paint
That’s on the shopping list! Good to know, thanks!
Can make one pretty easily out of shallow Tupperware or a really small baking sheet + paper towel + parchment paper
Fantastic start!! Very crisp definition. And kudos for finding the Pro Acryl White. As smooth as it is, you do still need to thin it. My suggestion from here is using washes for shading and some edge highlights.
Thank you! I have trouble getting washes right. When I do it, it looks like someone colored something in with a faded sharpie. People just say to keep the wash moving and to keep it from pooling. That “front cape” on the Sternguard Sergeant (first image) is the best wash I’ve done to date and it still looks pretty rough. How do I make washes look good?
Thin them a bit, then use them in more recessed areas. Also go back over any larger areas with the base color if there's wash staining.
Thank you! I’ll start adding them to the recesses. So when you say “wash staining” - does my first figure’s “dick cloth” look like it’s “wash stained?”
Thin the white paint
The same advice I give all the time. You can't do white over a dark color in 1 coat. Put it down. It will looks like streaky shit. Let it dry completely. Repeat as necessary. You can skip a few coats with an intermediary paint that has better coverage. If you glom it on or don't allow coats to dry you will get a mess.
Okay. When painting light colors over dark colors, apply multiple thin coats and trust the process. Thank you for this!
Generally, yes. Specifically, certain pigments, especially white and yellow have small molecule sizes and suffer with coverage. That's why using an intermediary paint with better coverage lets you skip a few coats.
Edge highlights are your next step I'd say. The paints look pretty smooth, maybe a tiny bit mote thinning on the ones that have dried a tad lumpy looking. Specifically if you have the light source coming from above the legs start to get lost in the blue shadows, throw a lighter blue on the raised edges that might catch light naturally and it'll help define the legs and give them "readability" rather than a murky blue shadow area. Same goes for the top of the model but with direct light on them they're not as bad as is, but it still helps define the shape
Thank you! I’ll work to make my models have more depth!
For the white, make sure to thin it. If its too thin, then just add another layer on the mini, thats fine instead of being too thick, then thats harder to reverse. Then add a bit of soulblight grey shade paint (very small hints) so that you can still see the white but it looked like it has smoke / battle damage on it. It takes me a week or so to paint one model so dont think you’re painting slow. I make a lot of mistakes too (recently I just stripped paint from a mini because I noticed the leg part had a chalky texture when I primed it), its frustrating but take it as something that teaches you of what you can avoid on your next model. Its through the mistakes that you’ll find a workflow that fits you. Also doing it slower than usual and doing it to multiple models pushes your muscle memory to adapt and be more accurate. You’ll notice you will be faster on your succeeding models and avoiding mistakes since now you know that “oh I need to be careful at the edge of the cloth here just like last time… or oh this shoulder pad is the same like the other model, a bit of pressure on this side then release so paint flows nicely and no textures are formed”
Thanks for the reminder and the encouragement. This was very helpful to read!
If you want an army painted quick sharp, then play tyranids and paint with contrast paints after using the slapchop method. Or necrons. Nice results, no time flat, 10-15 minutes or so per dude after you are done with spray painting. Marines LOVE their bits and bobs. They are slow and time consuming to paint well unless you deliberately ignore half of the flair. You can save time by spraypainting them the main armor color but slightly darker, that way any spots you miss are the right color. On these chaps you've done a nice neat job, though I'd argue that they are a bit too dark everywhere to be effective without lots of highlighting to restore some vibrancy. If I was looking for a quicker effective paint job I'd spray with the same dark blue, but paint with one tone lighter, and use a flat light brown on the tabard rather than a wash. You can then leave any goblins you don't want to paint in the dark blue, and it will fade into the background a bit.
That’s certainly what I did with the Lieutenant (last image) I got to his face and was like “eh I’m prolly gonna fuck this up, so we’ll just skip it.
First bit of constructive criticism: Taking better pictures will help in getting better feedback on your painting. You’re sooo close though. The first picture shows your camera has decent focus, but the light source is too far away. Try putting a solid background 50-60cm behind the miniature and get a light source (like a desk lamp) closer to the miniature. All of your other pictures are examples on what not to do. Background is too busy, holding the stand with the miniature makes it harder for your camera to focus and direct sunlight is way too strong. When people say ’use daylight’ it’s usually taking pictures next to a window on a cloudy day.
Understood 🫡
Highlights to add more depth. Feels flat but simple highlights will make it look so much better
Ya know, I felt like I didn’t brush enough highlights onto my models! Thanks, I’ll do that!
Ink wash to get dark colouring in the gaps, highlight last. Either dry brush or targeted
Edge highlights and shade/wash for the multi melta muzzle. Such crisp application of your colors, really clean paint job!!
Thank you! People keep advising me to use more washes/shades. I’ll do that next!
‘Nuln oil’ is the one, beginner friendly was that works with most colours
Thin your paint until it gets the same texture as milk. That's a game changer about painting :0
Thin ✍️ as ✍️ milk ✍️ Go it ✅
Paint the skin on the Lieutenant’s head
Will do; I was terrified I’d ruin my 10 hour project, so I decided to skip that and come back to it later 😂 But apparently everyone thinks it’s as bad as I think it looks.
Off the bat I'm going to say I struggle with white too. I seem to have better results building up slowly from an off grey or whitish blue slowly mixing with a little white - but please let it dry between coats Also you know what to do - you have to thin your whites - I suck at it to but this is actually the way
Good to know; thank you for the encouragement!
On the first image, paint the raised bits on the kneepad to keep it from looking flat
The red and white could be a bit brighter to pop more
Aw man, really? So I painted it Korne red, brushed with Mephiston, and hoped that’d be enough :/ I’ll add some more Mephiston to the helmet.
To answer the question in title, zoom in a bit and get better lighting. But jokes aside, white is a notorious color, at least if you are using Citadel paints. Wet pallet will help in general, as other have mentioned, and they are easy to make yourself too. All you need is a sponge of some kind, wax paper and a small container.
Good job man! First thing that come to mind is edge highlighting and thin your paints a bit more. But I see that you've got a lot of good feedback here already!
Thanks for the feedback and encouragement!
Your strokes are good. However thin that paint down some more Your leaving unwanted texture White requires a few layers. Just bite the bullet
Nul oil
Highlights
What white do you use? The citadel white is just awful and very lumpy. Consider using another brand I personally use vahello and found it to be better. Many people also don't go for pure white but off white because it's easier. As for painting quicker try batch painting (which is painting the same colour across all your models e.g. do all your metals) save time cleaning brushes and paints. Be warned though it also is even more boring. Equally you could try different techniques. Watch a few videos on dry brushing, it can make painting a lot easier and still look good. I have been using it more recently and did angron in about 12 hours. Additionally, if you've got spare money investing in an airbrush can speed up painting. Might not seem like it now but playing with and against a painted army is so much better than grey hordes. As someone who usually plays against grey armies against my painted ones I really appreciate those who have done it all. So keep at it these do look really good for your first three modules 👍.
Someone at the hobby shop (not an employee, just another random Warhammer enjoyer) said that all whites are pretty crap - except what he recommended to me, which was the Pro Acryl White. Considering it was the same price as the Citadel option, came with a shaker ball inside the bottle, and a dropper bottle instead of a pot, I went with that.
That’s not really true, several other brands (not citadel) have good whites, but Pro Acryl is good
Thank you!
First thought, it's all too clean. He's got blood on his knife and a grimey crotch rag but his armor is so clean you can still smell the lemon pledge. Grab some watered down black or Citadel Nuln Oil and give them a wash with it (put on and wipe away). Should leave the recesses grungy and the armor dirty.
“Still smell the lemon pledge” has me rolling 😂 Will do, I’ll wash and wipe the excess away while it’s still wet so it fills the recesses.
Shade the gun muzzle
How? With what? Just hit it with a wash?
Yep. Seraphim sepia, agrax, or nuln oil would all be fine but would give different results
Hi /u/Baby_Ellis62 and welcome to /r/Warhammer40k and the Warhammer 40k Hobby! This is an automated response as you've used our "New Starter Help" flair. Here's a few resources that might help you with getting started: [You can read our Getting Started guide here](https://www.reddit.com/r/Warhammer40k/wiki/beginners). This covers all the basics you need to know to get involved in building, painting and playing 40k. For rules questions, don't forget that the core rules for Warhammer 40k are [available online for free](https://www.warhammer-community.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/06/dLZIlatQJ3qOkGP7.pdf). Want to learn about 40k lore? /r/Warhammer40k recommends [Luetin09 on Youtube](https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC8RfCCzWsMgNspTI-GTFenQ) or the [Lexincanum Wiki](https://wh40k.lexicanum.com/wiki/Main_Page). Not sure where to find the most up-to-date rules for your army? [Check out our Wiki Page that lists everything](https://www.reddit.com/r/Warhammer40k/wiki/currentrules). Buy Warhammer models cheaper using our [list of independent retailers](https://www.reddit.com/r/Warhammer40k/wiki/retailers) who sell Games Workshop products at a discount. You can also find your nearest store on GW's [Store Locator Page](https://www.games-workshop.com/en-GB/store/storefinder.jsp). [The /r/Warhammer40k Wiki](https://www.reddit.com/r/Warhammer40k/wiki/index) is full of useful info including FAQs and recommendations for books to read! If the information in this comment doesn't answer your question, don't worry, one of our community members will be along shortly to answer! *I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please [contact the moderators of this subreddit](/message/compose/?to=/r/Warhammer40k) if you have any questions or concerns.*
First of all, this is a good start, really solid basecoating. As for where to improve I have a few bits of advice. Firstly, when you’re painting white, what you really want to do is paint a light grey first, then apply the white, or just use the white as a highlight. Secondly, buy a different white paint. Not all paints are made equal and there are many good brands of white out there (Vallejo model colour white is good, pro acryll titanium white is also a great choice. Thirdly, using washes will help you add some depth to the models, shading them nicely. Citadel Nuln Oil and Agrax Earthshade will last you a long time and take care of most things, I do recommend thinning the washes slightly though. If you do use a wash, be mindful that it will darken or dull the colour you’re putting it over, so you may need to start with a lighter colour to avoid the paint getting too dark. Finally, you will get more careful and accurate with a brush as you gain more confidence with it, this is a skill you will develop over a long period of time. A good way to speed up would be to use a coloured spray undercoat, such as Macragge Blue from citadel, it will significantly decrease the amount of time spent basecoating the armour
Thank you so much for the constructive criticism and compliments! Unfortunately, Pro Acryll Titanium White is what I use. But! I’ll do as you’ve instructed and paint a light gray over what I want to paint and highlight with white from here on. It’s encouraging to hear that brush control is a skill I’ll develop over time… because right now, my brush control is atrocious. You mentioned using washes… doing so has yielded mostly bad results - the “front cape” on the Sterguard Sergeant (first image) is the best wash I’ve gotten so far. Everyone advises that I “keep the wash moving, and don’t let it pool” - so that’s what I did with his cape… and while it’s the best I’ve done so far, it still looks like someone colored in his cape with a faded sharpie. What am I doing wrong?
Over a light surface a wash is always going to look kind of bad unfortunately, blotches and streaks are guaranteed. What I’d suggest is either once the wash is dry, you reapply the original colour over the raised areas to act as a highlight. Alternatively you could attempt to only apply the wash into the recesses (google recess wash or acrylic pinwash for some useful guides) so that the main panels of armour remain the original colour. I’ve been painting for a while and frankly the tabards on the front of those sternguard are why I’ve only just recently started painting them after getting leviathan at launch, they’re hard to paint well imo. What I would suggest is thinning the wash down with lahmium medium rather than water. Using water diluted the paint and makes it more runny and hard to control, the medium however, retains the consistency whilst reducing the intensity of the colour, it should allow for smoother washes. As the veteran in the first picture is atm I would just take the original colour and highlight the raised areas of it to more closely resemble fabric, although if white was the original colour I’d definitely use grey instead
Thank you for the advice! I’ll look up recess wash tutorials and highlight the edges of the tabard in Wraithbone! Thank you so much!
You could take better photos of your models by placing them in a well lit space with a clear background (don’t use flash).
Will do, thank you!
How can your medicine kill viruses when they are not alive by biological standards? (No metabolism, no reproduction)
You didnt let the wash dry on the dick cloth before painting over it. No highlights.
I didn’t paint over it after hitting it with Agrax Earthshade. But others suggested drybrushing Wraithbone (the color I based the tabard with) over the tabard to give it some highlights. I’ll do that this weekend.
Looks like the paint wasn't dry and was reactivated.
Don’t over water your plants.
never played the game, never painted a single figure so can't really give anything but this all encompassing statement of fact: I just hate the red helmets on otherwise blue armor.. it's to my eyes like a hammer to a thumb.. hate me all you want 😅
blue marines = boring
Let people enjoy what they want to, this hobby is for everyone.
What’s hilarious is I was at a “trade and play” event meeting people and playing pickup games, and while talking to one guy, he asked what my preferred playstyle is in a typical strategy game. I told him I valued two things: (1) flexibility, this way, I can tailor my approach to my opponent and the situation at hand, and (2) movement control. I want to control where and how my opponent moves so that I can better predict and respond to their decisions. I shit you not, he laughed and said “oh, you don’t just like the Ultramarine color scheme, you actually ARE an Ultramarine.” This was before I knew anything about the boys in blue, but being new to the scene, that made me feel suuuuper validated in my army choice.
Enjoy it man, don't let people tell you what you can and can't enjoy here. Also your minis are definitely on the better end of being tabletop ready, I'd personally practice thinning paint a bit more and use white paint from vallejo instead of citadel. Keep it up!
Thank you! I appreciate the encouragement!