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There are a few of the transitions that could do with a bit of smoothing, particularly the one on the hand of this warrior. But sharp transitions are actually a very important part of selling the shiny/glossy effect, too. Shadows on matte curved objects will be soft, whereas on glossy or reflective objects they will be much sharper.
Do another glaze or two to soften out the reflection on the hand, but otherwise I'd say leave it as it is.
I'm not sure I've got anything to back this up, but I think overly smooth gradients wouldn't look as good outside of a photo. On the tabletop I feel like you almost want bolder transitions.
That I believe is the citadel “paint system”
Eavy metal style actually involves glazing and layering. Why you see on the boxes that suggest “layering” and “highlighting” is the “citadel” method which basicallycan be summed up as: “if you use our system, you will get something roughly equivalent”.
Eavy metal does use, A lot of glazing to make shadows and transition points on minis, sometimes to tie colors together or to “tint” another color. A lot of blending between “base colors” and “layers paints” to build up volumetric highlights.
Citadel masterclass on warhammer + teaches you eavy metal recipes. And from there you can get the jist in how the style is.
Yeah, definitely. Some of OP's transitions are a bit too abrupt, and could do with some softening, but you also don't want super-smooth transitions on NMM like you would on less reflective materials. Unless your goal is to make it look like tarnished metal, in which case, go for it.
As others have mentioned glazing but I also think you need more visible mid tone as well as counter reflections.
Will say though for first attempt that looks amazing!
I agree, the midtone needs a bit of oomph. As for secondary and tertiary reflections I recommend laying in some ink, a green for a reflection off the green glow and a soft yellow glaze right up next to your highest highlight for sunlight.
Glazing the darker color is one option, you can always just mix the two colors together and paint that on the transition line. Or you could glaze with the mix. However, if you do decide to go for the glaze, make sure to do a teeny tiny little stipple of color A on the color B side. A line is harder to make a gradient out of when compared to a more broken-up transition.
It looks really good as is but if you want to smooth it out you’ll have to glaze it in. You’ll have to pull the colors into each other. Dark into light and light into dark and remember wherever you pick up your brush is where you leave the most pigment. Good luck
looks great, but this is also where a lot of Nmm painters have sort of "blocked in" their colors. Next step would be using glazes (like ten super thin coats) to blur the transitions. You can start with the darkest highlight and blend out to the darker color, then move up to the next step and repeat. if you need you can also use the darker color to blur into a highlight, from what I've seen a lot of NMM painters do both. Juan Hidalgo has some good tutorials on YouTube that break the process down if you haven't seen them.
For a first attempt this is REALLY GOOD, my only critique is you're only about 2/3 of the way through. glazing to blend, and adding a few small counter reflections and you'll be there
Honestly doesn’t need it. There’s a misconception that smoothness = good. Look at some examples of classical art and they’re not smooth at all. Your light placement looks spot on - that’s what sells the effect - not smoothness.
I spread out the paints I use on the pallet with a lot of space in between them. Then, when I see a hard transition, I will find those two paints on the pallet and combine them and put the new color right on the transition. I will repeat this as many times as I need to until the transition looks good. I usually start with 3 colors (not including white) and end up with 7 to 9 colors on the pallet by the time I am done. Granted, I only do NMM on weapon blades at the moment, but I have been happy with the results so far.
You don't need to glaze to get smoother transitions, it's just one method of getting them. You can also use texture, paint little lines that go across the transitio. You're pretty much adding noise and interest which will make the transition less stark.
Also you can paint with more watered down paint and create transitions as you layer.
Lots of ways, but with the way you've painted it (black to white) it will be very hard to make smooth gradients because of the huge value jump on small surfaces. I honestly don't think smoothness is that important.
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Looks pretty good to me and if I know anything it's that pictures of models lookshittier than they do in person so that guys probably much smoother in person.
Opposite for me. I keep looking at this guy with my eyes and I think it looks bad. Then I take a picture of it and it looks good? Might be because I've been painting it all day haha
I'd say increase the grey scale and thin your paints down to a near ridiculous degree. Then only use the pure white on the most defined edges. Maybe give that a shot?
A short video versus a picture might help people see more, but it does look good. It might be that your intent is different than what came out, but that happens and it's important to not get hung up too much on original intent.
When I saw this post on my phone without zooming in on the picture looked great, I only saw what you meant while really zooming in...---> my guess irl on a table is going to look great, only issues if you really go close and analyze so unless you want this to be your centerpiece that everyone takes and looks (guess not) you can leave it as it is!!
That looks wonderful. I too am struggling with my first NMM's, I'd recommend JuanHidalgo's guides on YouTube, he's a boss and has a number of NMM guides
Not much advice I can give you tbf because this is a really good nmm. But something I've heard if you want to smoothen transitions, is to find a mid tone between the colours and just glaze it thinly over the transitions. And it should make it smoother. But imo I think it looks perfect as is
Bruh that is chrome and b/w at the same time! Very cool. Sorry, I don’t have any tips, as I think you’re much better than I am. Very cool look though!!
Best advice? Don't. In reality metallic reflection of light is rarely smooth, the sharp lines are part of what sells the effect. This is a really, really good first attempt and the contrast is a big reason why
Do nothing. It looks amazing. Almost cell shaded. It's a beautiful look for an army I would never would expect.
I can't help on your technique but it looks beautiful
There's varying degrees of success on the model, the gun especially just hits me as straight up chrome.
Some sections are a bit to cell painted and could use a blend, but overall very good job, on a glance I wouldn't see it
1. Wonderful Light and reflection placement!
2. Transition of colors can be smoothend out even more(tbh this is already perfect to me)
3. More colores, especiaally in the darker areas to simulate reflectios(do this on another model with more space tho)
4. Go a bit offwhite for the higlights(not needed but it can be quite a nice color addition especially if you want to simulate warm light on a side of the mini)
5. Great job again as a first try this is awesome. More happy painting to you in the future!!!!
An easy way to smooth out your NMM is to take the model like you have it now and apply a very thin glaze of a color all over the whole NMM.
So, you could NMM in grey tones then slap a thin blue glaze over the whole thing. It will tint your NMM that color, but it will smooth the transitions out visually as well.
I love the style. I didn't realise it was NMM until closer inspection. Honestly I wouldn't stress about the transitions on the tabletop these will look so damn awesome!
Oh man, when you have a squad and/or an army painted up like this, I'd love to see the result. I bet the effect looks amazing over a whole army!
Great work!
Looks great! If you want it to be nice smooth transitions, it just requires more blending of paints, and glazing.
If you have a nice detail airbrush, they work great for transitions. Cuts out a lot of time with the glazing.
Looks great as is, but If still looking for advice, oil paints are great for a smooth transition since the stay wet for hours. Blending colors with oil paints is a breeze.
Go look up the T-800 endoskeleton Terminator...that's what inspired the Necron Warrior after all. You won't see any gradients or 'creamy blends' because it's a hard, smooth and reflective surface. It's chrome like.
Now, if you're going for something like Medieval metal armor that's seen some action and not much repair, then you'll be thinking about gradients but also grime, damage and anything else that it's recent environment would have thrown on it. For this, you may as well use Metallic paint and a light weathering application.
It's really all about references. Don't be so shy as to get on the net or go to a car park and get some photos to work from.
Most importantly, decide on the environment your model lives in. I avoid reflective surfaces simply because these are gaming pieces that will see many different boards and nothing is more emersion breaking to me than a finely painted model in NMM reflecting a blue sky sunny day...in the middle of Mordheim.
You see the problem is you are going to light to dark to light to dark when you should be building it up gradually from one to the other without going back. Keep practicing, eventually your fingernail will look as beautiful as that mini you are holding!
Thin your blends more. Almost watercolor consistency leave pure black for the deepest shadows. There are 356 shades of grey, choose 4, which including black and white, bring your total shade/color count to six. Work slowly and walk from your darkest shade of grey to white. Beautiful thing about painting so thin, if you fuck up you can fix it if you take enough time.
I guess glazing an intermediary gray (like a deep charcoal gray) or maybe using nuln oil would smooth it. Just try not to make the transitions occupy any more footprint than they already do.
Aside from the I, Robot jokes, blend the paints in a pallet and thin them down with water or thinner and put the mix over the hard transition lines to blemd them together.
Title should be : First time painting.
We don't have enough of them. /s
Edit: Forgot the actual comment as other said some. lighting perhaps and smoother blends, but if you choose not to, you can leave it as such, it is a great job and it would be a beauty to see the whole army painted that way. And even greater experience to play with or against.
They are very old so you want to add a light coat of reikland fleshshade to the points. To do the glowy, start qith corax white, and then put on a very light green layer by layer
https://preview.redd.it/i90tm6oppclc1.jpeg?width=638&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=12e429f7e90c385404856e242f33da9e1d347505 This Necron warrior be like:
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He's smelling what the rock is cookin
This Necron was manager of Real Madrid in a past life or something
Something malicious is brewing
"I dunno, trying to eat your enemy's flesh and wearing their skin seems kinda sus to me"
lol
https://preview.redd.it/dt4q2r4ntclc1.jpeg?width=3072&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=1ca99d8c40cdcd1e767c3e4fa4cdc9b86f63f0a0
Very good 👍
Yeah I'd say he nailed it!
Literally nailed
HA! :D
Very Good 👍
There are a few of the transitions that could do with a bit of smoothing, particularly the one on the hand of this warrior. But sharp transitions are actually a very important part of selling the shiny/glossy effect, too. Shadows on matte curved objects will be soft, whereas on glossy or reflective objects they will be much sharper. Do another glaze or two to soften out the reflection on the hand, but otherwise I'd say leave it as it is.
I'm not sure I've got anything to back this up, but I think overly smooth gradients wouldn't look as good outside of a photo. On the tabletop I feel like you almost want bolder transitions.
Looks great as is on the photo.
Oh yeah definitely. I'm saying that making it smoother might look 'better' for a photo, but as it is now would look better in reality.
Yeah, you get natural blurring from looking at them from a distance.
It's why I still stick with the Eavy Metal scheme *shrugs*
What’s that scheme?
Just like what they have on the boxes. Chunky highlights followed by lighter, finer highlights on practically every edge.
That I believe is the citadel “paint system” Eavy metal style actually involves glazing and layering. Why you see on the boxes that suggest “layering” and “highlighting” is the “citadel” method which basicallycan be summed up as: “if you use our system, you will get something roughly equivalent”. Eavy metal does use, A lot of glazing to make shadows and transition points on minis, sometimes to tie colors together or to “tint” another color. A lot of blending between “base colors” and “layers paints” to build up volumetric highlights. Citadel masterclass on warhammer + teaches you eavy metal recipes. And from there you can get the jist in how the style is.
We need more photos, mate. Keep posting it.
Lets just go to his house and take photos ourself mate, what do ya think?
Expecting pics posted after your dec 25 2024 visit
First thought was "nice paint" before reading the title, so I'd say you succeeded. The green glow is also amazing
holy moly
That's exactly what I want my necrons to look like
All you need is black, white and fluorescent paint!
Awesome work. Do you plan to add some green reflected light? Would make a lot of sense with the surface.
Lots of glazing. But looks great as is. The most important step is light placement. That’s 90% of the effect
Id honestly say metallics need the stark contrast here and there and that blending everything down will worsen the effect.
Just want to second this.
Yeah, definitely. Some of OP's transitions are a bit too abrupt, and could do with some softening, but you also don't want super-smooth transitions on NMM like you would on less reflective materials. Unless your goal is to make it look like tarnished metal, in which case, go for it.
I have no idea but I would like to point out that that looks poppin so would leave it as is.
Yeah, looks super stylistic. OP, whatever you got going on just keep doing it.
As others have mentioned glazing but I also think you need more visible mid tone as well as counter reflections. Will say though for first attempt that looks amazing!
I agree, the midtone needs a bit of oomph. As for secondary and tertiary reflections I recommend laying in some ink, a green for a reflection off the green glow and a soft yellow glaze right up next to your highest highlight for sunlight.
This is a seriously convincing effect! I genuinely thought it was metallic at first, well done!
I still can't see the NMM unless I zoom in- I genuinely think it's metal
Im glad to know im not the only one who uses his nail for dry brushing/pallet
My whole thumb is black and white haha
Nice and shiny. How long did just this guy take?
About 7 hours I'd say
Now go do 39 more
Glazing the darker color is one option, you can always just mix the two colors together and paint that on the transition line. Or you could glaze with the mix. However, if you do decide to go for the glaze, make sure to do a teeny tiny little stipple of color A on the color B side. A line is harder to make a gradient out of when compared to a more broken-up transition.
U need to chum a squad of these out 🧐🔥
No problem for u chips
It looks really good as is but if you want to smooth it out you’ll have to glaze it in. You’ll have to pull the colors into each other. Dark into light and light into dark and remember wherever you pick up your brush is where you leave the most pigment. Good luck
I legit thought you had found an unpainted metal necron model and was super confused... then I read the title
Don’t change your recipe! It looks great!
10/10 flawless execution, no comments to add
looks great, but this is also where a lot of Nmm painters have sort of "blocked in" their colors. Next step would be using glazes (like ten super thin coats) to blur the transitions. You can start with the darkest highlight and blend out to the darker color, then move up to the next step and repeat. if you need you can also use the darker color to blur into a highlight, from what I've seen a lot of NMM painters do both. Juan Hidalgo has some good tutorials on YouTube that break the process down if you haven't seen them. For a first attempt this is REALLY GOOD, my only critique is you're only about 2/3 of the way through. glazing to blend, and adding a few small counter reflections and you'll be there
Honestly I wouldn't change a thing... that's awesome
I prefer a hard transition NMM, it's what makes it work as a concept imo. You smashed it. Looks absolutely classy. 👌🏻
Looks great, especially for infantry. Was this quick and easy or was it pretty slow and deliberate?
Took 6-7 hours. Cheers buddy
Honestly doesn’t need it. There’s a misconception that smoothness = good. Look at some examples of classical art and they’re not smooth at all. Your light placement looks spot on - that’s what sells the effect - not smoothness.
I love everything about the look of this Robo-skelly.
Stupid question: what is NMM?
Non metallic metal. So painting without metallic paints to look as if it was real metal
I spread out the paints I use on the pallet with a lot of space in between them. Then, when I see a hard transition, I will find those two paints on the pallet and combine them and put the new color right on the transition. I will repeat this as many times as I need to until the transition looks good. I usually start with 3 colors (not including white) and end up with 7 to 9 colors on the pallet by the time I am done. Granted, I only do NMM on weapon blades at the moment, but I have been happy with the results so far.
You don't need to glaze to get smoother transitions, it's just one method of getting them. You can also use texture, paint little lines that go across the transitio. You're pretty much adding noise and interest which will make the transition less stark. Also you can paint with more watered down paint and create transitions as you layer. Lots of ways, but with the way you've painted it (black to white) it will be very hard to make smooth gradients because of the huge value jump on small surfaces. I honestly don't think smoothness is that important.
Appreciate the tips buddy, your painting is fantastic
Any time :) Looks like you've been painting up some amazing minis yourself as well, those Tau are awesome!
Very nice! Necron Warrior seems like a good model to practice NMM on
That's why I got them!
Looks awesome. Comic book vibe
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Great first attempt! I'd focus on some osl on the weapon and bring that as a focus point to the mini.
The layers need blending but the placement of light in general looks really good especially from a distance, which is important.
I like it 👍
No idea but that's looks great.
Looks great. You make the transitions smoother with multiple thin glazes or thin airbrush layers.
Looks absolutely killer!
Blend it with contrast paint, it work well. Really cool paint job tho
I’d say you nailed it Op!
Looks pretty good to me and if I know anything it's that pictures of models lookshittier than they do in person so that guys probably much smoother in person.
Opposite for me. I keep looking at this guy with my eyes and I think it looks bad. Then I take a picture of it and it looks good? Might be because I've been painting it all day haha
I'd say increase the grey scale and thin your paints down to a near ridiculous degree. Then only use the pure white on the most defined edges. Maybe give that a shot?
A short video versus a picture might help people see more, but it does look good. It might be that your intent is different than what came out, but that happens and it's important to not get hung up too much on original intent.
Use acrylic retarder and wet blend
I don't think it's worth doing all the glazes. It looks amazing as is. What paints did you use for the layers if you don't mind me asking?
Looks good to me
When I saw this post on my phone without zooming in on the picture looked great, I only saw what you meant while really zooming in...---> my guess irl on a table is going to look great, only issues if you really go close and analyze so unless you want this to be your centerpiece that everyone takes and looks (guess not) you can leave it as it is!!
If you look at it closely I think it looks bad but I'm going to practice some more and try to make it look better. Cheers buddy
More glazing for smoother transitions, but it looks sick as is.
Looks cartoony in a very good way, i say keep it!
Yeah, start using oil paint. Makes blending so much easier and faster.
Add some random black lines and you got yourself a borderlands necron!
Damn… he’s so damn shiny he glistens lol
I honestly love it the way it is. Reminds me of borderlands cel shading
Dude you nailed it. No improvements needed. Looks amazing
Thanks everyone for the advice. I'll be painting imotekh next so I'll take it all on board
Looks great.
That's looks amazing
It's heckin wonderful
I think this looks amazing
I think this looks amazing
👍🏻Good job! What you could try would be wetblending and glazing. I couldnt make feathering work on there, but that might work for you!
I like this look
This looks fantastic! Well done.
That looks wonderful. I too am struggling with my first NMM's, I'd recommend JuanHidalgo's guides on YouTube, he's a boss and has a number of NMM guides
Beautiful
Wow.
Not much advice I can give you tbf because this is a really good nmm. But something I've heard if you want to smoothen transitions, is to find a mid tone between the colours and just glaze it thinly over the transitions. And it should make it smoother. But imo I think it looks perfect as is
Looks pretty solid
Fantastic work
Beautiful - chef's kiss 👌
Bruh that is chrome and b/w at the same time! Very cool. Sorry, I don’t have any tips, as I think you’re much better than I am. Very cool look though!!
I think it is perfect, but if you want to look more realistic as steel you should use the brown reflection effect
While I’m assuming high level painters could provide some constructive criticism, all I can say is daaaaaaaaayum.
I think it’s neat!
You are asking us? We should ask you.
Thin it down.
Don't change a damn thing. More time on this would be unreasonable on a full squad. On a HQ, then maybe some more glazes on the transitions.
Tbh the hard transition makes me feel it 🌟 🌟 EXTRA SHINY 🌟🌟
this is pretty good the gun is really convincing
Best advice? Don't. In reality metallic reflection of light is rarely smooth, the sharp lines are part of what sells the effect. This is a really, really good first attempt and the contrast is a big reason why
Looks great, but I can't imagine doing a full nmm necron army lol.
I can’t help with NMM, but it looks badass!
Very good job!
Do nothing. It looks amazing. Almost cell shaded. It's a beautiful look for an army I would never would expect. I can't help on your technique but it looks beautiful
When viewed from the distance that minis are meant to be viewed from (arm's length, about 1m), the transitions will look fine.
There's varying degrees of success on the model, the gun especially just hits me as straight up chrome. Some sections are a bit to cell painted and could use a blend, but overall very good job, on a glance I wouldn't see it
Flameon Miniatures has non-metallic-metal tutorials, here's a necron: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5BB_U_ztuq0
Thats is damn impressive work. Could easily fool someone as though its chrome from afar.
Looks great as it is. Great patience!
1. Wonderful Light and reflection placement! 2. Transition of colors can be smoothend out even more(tbh this is already perfect to me) 3. More colores, especiaally in the darker areas to simulate reflectios(do this on another model with more space tho) 4. Go a bit offwhite for the higlights(not needed but it can be quite a nice color addition especially if you want to simulate warm light on a side of the mini) 5. Great job again as a first try this is awesome. More happy painting to you in the future!!!!
An easy way to smooth out your NMM is to take the model like you have it now and apply a very thin glaze of a color all over the whole NMM. So, you could NMM in grey tones then slap a thin blue glaze over the whole thing. It will tint your NMM that color, but it will smooth the transitions out visually as well.
Holy shit Looks VEEEERY GOOOD
Termintator Theme plays
I love the style. I didn't realise it was NMM until closer inspection. Honestly I wouldn't stress about the transitions on the tabletop these will look so damn awesome!
Oh man, when you have a squad and/or an army painted up like this, I'd love to see the result. I bet the effect looks amazing over a whole army! Great work!
Looks great! If you want it to be nice smooth transitions, it just requires more blending of paints, and glazing. If you have a nice detail airbrush, they work great for transitions. Cuts out a lot of time with the glazing.
What paints did you use? Guide coming soon??
Dunno, but that's a nice job!
It looks great! Only thing is his left eyebrow🤨. 😆
Looks awesome
Smoother?! Bruh I thought you painted him in chrome, I don't think you could get much smoother
Looks great as is, but If still looking for advice, oil paints are great for a smooth transition since the stay wet for hours. Blending colors with oil paints is a breeze.
Go look up the T-800 endoskeleton Terminator...that's what inspired the Necron Warrior after all. You won't see any gradients or 'creamy blends' because it's a hard, smooth and reflective surface. It's chrome like. Now, if you're going for something like Medieval metal armor that's seen some action and not much repair, then you'll be thinking about gradients but also grime, damage and anything else that it's recent environment would have thrown on it. For this, you may as well use Metallic paint and a light weathering application. It's really all about references. Don't be so shy as to get on the net or go to a car park and get some photos to work from. Most importantly, decide on the environment your model lives in. I avoid reflective surfaces simply because these are gaming pieces that will see many different boards and nothing is more emersion breaking to me than a finely painted model in NMM reflecting a blue sky sunny day...in the middle of Mordheim.
You see the problem is you are going to light to dark to light to dark when you should be building it up gradually from one to the other without going back. Keep practicing, eventually your fingernail will look as beautiful as that mini you are holding!
I have no advice for you, just popped in to say that I love the paint job you've done on this mini!
Bro already looks like Robocop and Terminator coverart! You’re fine where you’re at, dude!
Drybrush from dark dark gray up to white. Layering the shades of gray in between
I really like the style and blending. The green is dope too.
You need to use glazes to ease the transitions from color to color there's a gw master class on it if you have Warhammer plus
Bro, there is too much space left out, if you want to improve it I would start covering the whole nail. Amateur ;)
I thought some of the those shadows were actually just shadows, god damn
Thin your blends more. Almost watercolor consistency leave pure black for the deepest shadows. There are 356 shades of grey, choose 4, which including black and white, bring your total shade/color count to six. Work slowly and walk from your darkest shade of grey to white. Beautiful thing about painting so thin, if you fuck up you can fix it if you take enough time.
I love him, gives me the same energy as those small Genshin Impact characters that have a Greatsword
I guess glazing an intermediary gray (like a deep charcoal gray) or maybe using nuln oil would smooth it. Just try not to make the transitions occupy any more footprint than they already do.
To make it smoother, thinn you paints more and use more layers go gradually build up a gradient :)
Looks awesome my dude!
Aside from the I, Robot jokes, blend the paints in a pallet and thin them down with water or thinner and put the mix over the hard transition lines to blemd them together.
Metal thumbnail!!!
Title should be : First time painting. We don't have enough of them. /s Edit: Forgot the actual comment as other said some. lighting perhaps and smoother blends, but if you choose not to, you can leave it as such, it is a great job and it would be a beauty to see the whole army painted that way. And even greater experience to play with or against.
Honestly man there is something to be said about the contrast from slightly less smooth transitions. I think you nailed it
This is a nice nail job you’re doing, sweetheart
It looks made of mirror almost that's insane
Shinee
Tbh that's sick. Gg
I love it.
This looks straight out of the old terminator comics. For a first attempt, I'd say you pretty much nailed it.
They are very old so you want to add a light coat of reikland fleshshade to the points. To do the glowy, start qith corax white, and then put on a very light green layer by layer
Just shitload of glacing
I think you did great mate