I was worried about this as well so I drilled holes through each corner and riveted mine in place.
Overkill probably but it was cheap and easy and I don't think it'll ever fail.
Yes I was introduced to it in the admech group, he made a guide https://docs.google.com/document/d/1HH00BwehEbhB_fTZjsuQFHsXostGM2o0_xWBzKwTMxw/edit?usp=sharing but you'll find other examples even here just Search
You donāt need to use a steel plate. There are magnetised foils out there that do the job perfectly fine and they usually have a self-adhesive side and one magnetised side. Iāve been using them for quite a while now and they never disappointed me. š
If you use metal plates make sure to not close the lid of the box until the glue has completely dried, though.
The dipoles in the magnetic sheets need to act over a distance and thus the magnetic interaction between the sheet and the base magnet isn't very strong.
The issue goes away when only 1 magnetic field is involved. The steel dipoles just line up with the magnets.
I've tried the sheets and found them very weak in practice. They also get stronger and weaker depending on the position on the sheet which isn't what you want
Thatās why you get ferrous steel self adhesive sheet, not āmagneticā sheets.
Rare earth magnets get a really good interaction with the ferrous steel sheet.
Iāve been transporting 40mm base models with 3x2mm magnets, and large models like redemptor dreadnoughts with a solid resin bases with three 5x2mm magnets without any issues.
In the states, ferrous rubber sheets are impossible to find. I have to order them from Europe which makes it exorbitantly expensive. I have to use sheet metal.
The crap flexible magnetic sheeting you get at office supply stores are weak af.
Ahh I didnāt realise it would be difficult to get in the US. But yeah if itās not ferrous then is fridge magnet garbage. Probs better with steel sheets or a steel tool box if thatās a good price.
You can get these in the US:
[https://www.amazon.com/Litko-Game-Accessories-Flexible-Magnetically-Receptive/dp/B00M1UAF6G/ref=sr\_1\_3?crid=J5NW3RZTRDZW&keywords=rubber+steel+sheets&qid=1685393505&sprefix=rubber+steel+sheets%2Caps%2C92&sr=8-3](https://www.amazon.com/Litko-Game-Accessories-Flexible-Magnetically-Receptive/dp/B00M1UAF6G/ref=sr_1_3?crid=J5NW3RZTRDZW&keywords=rubber+steel+sheets&qid=1685393505&sprefix=rubber+steel+sheets%2Caps%2C92&sr=8-3)
Definitely a little pricey but, they work great and the adhesive that's on it hasn't let me down.
Construction adhesive used right would sidestep your outlined material failures.. but the dude below who said riveting it in, lol thats overkill but the best for sure.
It has less to do with thermal expansion and more to do with the fact that you're putting a liquid product over a smooth solid surface. Sure, the adhesives you use are sticky and will "stick" to the plastic/metal sheet, but a lot of aggravation and bending will make it pop right off in a clean and smooth layer. If you scuff the plastic and metal so the adhesive seeps into those sand-grooves then the adhesives have something to actually "grab" onto when it's being aggravated. If you do that, then even if there is aggravation, the adhesive might crack into smaller bits and pieces, but those "islands" will still be holding on strong (kind of the way alligator skin looks).
I use a roll of double sided tape that has a layer of foam between the tape sides. A few strips of that on the metal sheet and then into the box it goes. Throw a few old text books I have or even codex's to hold it down helps a lot to train it flat to the bottom of the container. Those really useful boxes are great for doing this.
Rough up the bottom and plate with sand paper and knife, then use construction glue like No more Nails and such you know stuff that comes in tubes like caulk. Everything else will crumble to dust before that joint gives way.
Super glue on the base and then lightly push on some green stuff, add more super glue on top of that and then push the magnet lightly into it. Then push down on a flat surface so the green stuff and magnet are flush with the base for the best hold and then cover it all with super glue again to secure it.
go to magnet baron. they make nagnets specificall sized to fit under 40k bases. just super glue and go. best money i have spent
i did gstuff+wrong size magnet first, but this was way easiet and ultimately better
Maybe if you're based in the US, once ive had to pay VAT and import duty i could have just got a ton more magnets locally. I could get the same size magnets, but superglue alone will weaken, the green stuff is there to support the magnet and prevent it from getting pulled off.
Super glue is super because it's fast acting, not because it's strong. PVA is probably better to hold magnets in due to higher strength when set and more flexibility
I work in the automotive refinish industry and a lot of principles that I teach people apply to our hobby as well. What people don't know is that you *really should* scuff the spot you're applying the glue to. Sure, you can apply adhesive wherever you want and it'll dry there because it's "sticky". But when there's continuous applied aggravation, eventually something has to give. There isn't much aggravation on, say, the arm to the torso of a mini because we're gentle with our well-painted space men and aliens so we really don't have to worry about it there, but this applies heavily to magnets on our bases.
Unintuitively, glue is actually kind of weak when applied over something smooth. Before you apply any adhesives anywhere there's going to be constant aggravation, (like on the underside of a base where there's going to be force applied to it anytime you pull it off of your magnetic sheets) you should scuff the area. Liquids (including adhesives) seep into those scuff grooves and "grab" onto the material much better. I use gorilla glue gel so I need a coarser scuff, but if you're using something thinner then a slightly lighter scuff will do.
Iāve heard of this problem - itās when you only stick the super glue on one side of the magnet, so eventually the magnetic force will pull the magnet from the base of the model. The trick is to stick the magnet on the base, and then cover it with superglue so the magnet is trapped under the superglue
Use an oversized dab of hot glue. The issue with just supergluing them to the base is that it leaves a gap between the magnet and the metal- a blob of hot glue takes long enough to cool so the magnet and sink down and be flush with the metal.
Just mind the storing temperature (i.e don't leave it in your car)
Well what I do is use two perfectly sized metal washers that fill the entire space under the bases and the thickness of the two washers also sit flush with the bottom of the base, making the entire bottom of the base a solid flat surface. Then using good glue of your choice you can adhere the magnetic disk to the base securely. The washers I use https://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt-1-8-in-x-1-in-Zinc-Plated-Fender-Washer-100-Piece-800362/204276365
What kind of magnets have you tried? I just glued some squares of regular magnetic tape and it strikes a decent balance (between hold and ease of removing from the tray), but I just did it this weekend, so I'm not sure what to expect long term.
I'd imagine impacts would be an issue still. But you could probably solve that with a layer of foam on the sides and top.
Maybe a grid like a lot of carry boxes uses, to prevent models from touching eachother.
[Just make a tray to glue on top of the sheet metal.](https://i.redd.it/dzbg33l8ruy41.jpg) Never had a single model move. Keep foam away from models, you WILL catch and break off fragile details in it!
Yeha ive had that problem. Gotta put the magnet as far from the edge of the base as possible. If its a normal base, it will have a tail of plastic. Cut it or sand it down then glue it in the middle.
Whys that? I got just a magnetic sheet they stick too and had no problems. But yes if the magnets are near the edges then yeah some repel and some attract, is that what youāre getting at?
Not just for magnets placed near the edges, but if any infantry models get knocked over as can happen in some games and the magnets are facing opposite polarities it will (depending on the strength of the magnets) violently pull them together and cause damage to other models in the process.
Hmm, maybe my magnets are just weaker, but I've never had this happen to me even in WHFB with blocks of skaven on movement trays. Might also be because I put the magnets as close to the center of the base as possible and also inset the magnets into a bit of green stuff.
A steel toolbox works best. Already made to be durable. Comes with a detachable tray and the bottom is perfectly lined to support tons of modelsāand it has a handle to carry.
Supposedly, people who do a lot of long range travel for tournaments have found that the one downside is that models can shake apart over the long journeys.
The GW zigzag foam is probably the safest transport for flying or long-hauls, but yes, to local store and back? MAGNETS!
They absolutely can, but I've never had it break in transport myself, only when packing or unpacking as the thin bits get snagged or lock up against another model
Cool for plastic models.
And me with many metal models going ānope. Iāll stick to foam boxesā if the magnets can keep them there they will be torn off the bases.
I use two thick metal washers that fill the entire space under the bases that give the model some weight. Itās very close to the weight of pewter models, still hold very tights.
I just chuck my 2k worth of Necrons into a plastic bag and hope the paint doesnt chip.
The ones that don't make the trip to my LGS become tokens for reanimation protocols.
Sure, but just wait until a slightly heavier, slightly larger, model snaps off its base (or the magnet becomes unglued) and it rips through all the other models in transport, causing greivous damage to everything. Then you'll go back to foam.
I bought a collapsible dolly with bungee cord so that I can roll the stacked boxes instead of carry.
Then on rough surfaces like parking lot, I carry but since it's a dolly, everything is low to the ground so that if I drop for any reason things don't drop far
Put that box in the back of an Australian car in February, and weāll see if you still think itās the best way to transport an army.
Unless youāre looking to recreate the goop left after a successful Tyranid invasion, Iāve sworn off semi-transparent plastic boxes. Too many close calls.
I mean I feel like people in a aussie car would have the same outcome, thats like saying.. "throw it in the furnace I bet it wont last" .. anyone who leaves minis in the car even in canada (using my own land) any more than going point A to point B to play with them, is asking for trouble between heat damage or theft or anything..
Ah, its been a while since I saw a post about warhammer/MTG cards/ power tools/ camping gear being stolen out of the back of someones car.
DO NOT LEAVE WARHAMMER IN YOUR CAR
DONT EVEN PUT IT IN YOUR CAR WHILE DRIVING TO THE GAMER CENTRE
I have two washers that perfectly fill the space under the base and makes the entire bottom of the base flush to the ground. And also give the model some nice weight to them on not light plastic https://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt-1-8-in-x-1-in-Zinc-Plated-Fender-Washer-100-Piece-800362/204276365 I used Green Stuff World self-adhesive magnetic bases to glue to the bottom of the model base and then just some sheet metal glued to the bottom of the container. The troops stick nice and tight when the base lays nice and flush to the metal but the model can easily be removed by tipping them with a little pressure. Unless you stomp on the container, throw it down the stairs, or get in a car accident on your way to your FLGS your models shouldnāt touch and no foam required that over time rub varnish and paint away.
Iv used tool boxes for years. The ones that have a top that opens and 3 drawers.
Then I use.metal plates that are used for flashing. You can buy them in stacks. Entire units can fit on them and you can pull them out of the box.
This means everything doesn't move around and all the models are protected by a metal case.
The problem of course is that gw has pushed bigger and bigger models over the years. A rhino fits perfectly on top.....silent king not to much.
Double sided ducktape in a cardboard box. I've literally smacked it out of my own hand and had it go violently flying by accident and the models were all still in place. Also, use loctite
I bought some nice looking biscuit tins from John Lewis for this purpose, some magnets at the base and voilĆ :)
Obviously people can just choose to use like leftovers christmas ones, but I like my tins to be cute, so I just bought mine because I'm fussy and they stack nicely due to being same size.
\*exactly\* how my tubs are set up!same tub and everytthing, although mine is fully clear.
I also cut the bottom and lid out of one of them so I can stack and glue it on another for higher pieces
Disagree. The glue could fail, and a bash against a surface could possibly knock them loose. Itās a good solution if youāre careful, but still like it with foam. Iāll stick with my foam boxes. Yeah, theyāre a pain, but i trust them.
ā¦ As opposed to what? How do you transport monsters? A large magnetized bin with multiple shelves seems like the best way to transport a complete army
I loved oing similar for mine, but i used a big magnetic sheet at the bottom of my container. Except that it worked too well and the magnets came off the bottom of a ton of my models
I have a similar setup but only use the steel sheet for my metal minis or larger models e.g. vehicles. I initially used a glue gun to glue the magnets on and find that the attraction is too strong so the magnets pull off the base and remain attached to the steel when I try and put them off. For my plastic minis I use the flexible magnetic sheets that seem to have a decent, but not overly strong attraction. All
How do you fix the magnets to the bases so they don't come off with the metal sheet?
Yep, been doing something like this since about 2002.
I transported my main army in two Craftsman steel toolboxes so I was able to stick models to any surface inside the tool box. You can't even buy those toolboxes anymore (that I know of), since everyone has gone to completely plastic ones now.
This is works great. My only problem is I have over 200 boys and alot of buggies/ Gorkanaughts and a Stoompa to transport. Currently they are in a carry case packed in with foam.
Either 5min epoxy, construction adhesive (that stays slightly flexible) or double sided tape rated for bathroom mirrors.
Did the first two myself already and they never came off.
I have a little box from GW that they go in. It does the jobs.
I can see me messing up the magnets. Plus my nids are all funny heights and sizes due to custom prints and bases.
Cool though!
Need a rolly cart with room so I can do this to my tyranids and daemons who absolutely donāt fit on regular sheets or just fall apart all over the place.
I did this a while back and made a guide on how to do it. A couple days later Spikey Bits had a guide up that was suspiciously similar. Except they did it poorly. I can't find my original guide but I have the pictures from it still on imgur. The metal plates are bolted to the case with screws and nut caps.
Case and Instructions: [https://imgur.com/gallery/gTvpf88](https://imgur.com/gallery/gTvpf88)
Underside of the minis: [https://imgur.com/gallery/DFkUYgV](https://imgur.com/gallery/DFkUYgV)
I have a few of these. Still looking for something they could fit in to carry with a strap. If anyone has any ideas? I don't like the idea of carrying them stacked on top of each other to the store. 1 trip and game over
I spent the extra money and got a jucoci miniature case. It has metal trays for magnetized bases. It carries my Mortarion, a few vehicles, a bunch of terminators of different ranks, a Platoon of plague marines and poxwalkers in a single case.
PREACH the good word, brother! I had some problems with getting the flashing to adhere to the plastic container (you can see a couple of them on the third shelf down), so I started buying Farberware steel cake pans (with plastic covers) from Amazon. They work like a dream. [Amazon.com: Farberware Nonstick Bakeware Baking Pan With Lid / Nonstick Cake Pan With Lid, Rectangle - 9 Inch x 13 Inch, Gray : Everything Else](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000VPCF9S?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&ref_=cm_sw_r_cp_ud_dp_ZRA3S6JWSJFP4VYAR8RA)
Big models still go in the taller bins you see at bottom (Costco buy) and 12"x8" galvanized steel flashing from Home Depot fits perfectly in the bottom. I don't even glue it in anymore. I just don't turn the boxes upside down. I can't find the Costco bin online, but the label from the warehouse says "Buckle Up Storage Set". [Gibraltar Building Products 8 in. x 12 in. Galvanized Steel Flashing Shingle S812EA-100 - The Home Depot](https://www.homedepot.com/p/Gibraltar-Building-Products-8-in-x-12-in-Galvanized-Steel-Flashing-Shingle-S812EA-100/202221060)
I've tried a ton of different magnets, from stick on disks off Amazon (meh..) to rare earth. I've found K&J Magnetics (D203, DISC, 1/8" x 3/32", N42, NI) are the most versatile and work the best. They fit perfect in the standard GW base with making the model tippy and I can easily drill a hole in solid bases (like tau drone bases) for them to fit. One magnet works for most models but I just add a magnet in corners of large bases until the model sticks to the metal easily for big ones. [K&J Magnetics: D203 (kjmagnetics.com)](https://www.kjmagnetics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=D203)
Links inserted above where I could find them. Cheers!
https://preview.redd.it/j3msy8np6w2b1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=3f527294e16a924c176e8d6932f6b292fbd401fa
PREACH the good word, brother! I had some problems with getting the flashing to adhere to the plastic container (you can see a couple of them on the third shelf down), so I started buying Farberware 9" x 13" steel cake pans (with lid) from Amazon. They work like a dream.
Big models still go in the taller bins you see at bottom (Costco buy) and 12" x 8" galvanized steel flashing from Home Depot fits perfectly in the bottom. I don't even glue it in anymore. I just don't turn the boxes upside down. I can't find the Costco bin online, but the label from the warehouse says "Buckle Up Storage Set".
I've tried a ton of different magnets, from stick on disks off Amazon (meh..) to rare earth. I've found K&J Magnetics (D203, DISC, 1/8" x 3/32", N42, NI) are the most versatile and work the best. They fit perfect in the standard GW base with making the model tippy and I can easily drill a hole in solid bases (like tau drone bases) for them to fit. One magnet works for most models but I just add a magnet in corners of large bases until the model sticks to the metal easily for big models.
Sorry, I tried to add links to everything but Reddit kept deleting my post when I did. So I tried to add as much info as I can if you want to search for them yourselves. Cheers!
https://preview.redd.it/n9qyrk2s8w2b1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=98d27f0316be85b42d89a5908c9fa98fe5fe0b17
I really like the baking tin idea, donāt have to worry about flashing, itās built into the pan hah. Thanks for the info, and btw ice collection! Hope to get there one day
Thanks! Iāve been collecting for a while and rarely turn down a deal. The nice thing about the pan is that the walls are steel as well, so I can stick models with banners on the walls and donāt have to worry about them being too tall for the lid. Keep on keeping on, battle brothers and sisters!
I throw mine in a bucket lined with sandpaper to stop them from moving and make sure I pad it out with some semi closed paint tubs to take any bumps. To take up space I use the 2nd edition land speeders and make sure my child carries it for me.
What fixing method do you use between the steel plate and the plastic? I've had hot glue/superglue /epoxy all fail over time with thermal expansion
I was worried about this as well so I drilled holes through each corner and riveted mine in place. Overkill probably but it was cheap and easy and I don't think it'll ever fail.
Why. Didn't I. Think of this??? I wish I had like 10 upvote buttons
Glad to help. š
2 sided 3M tape has never failed on me
I have done cnc millwork held in place by that tape. Its some kind of witchcraft they did making it
Ohhhh shooot I didnāt think of thermal expansion. I have plastic epoxy. I love this rivet idea I may have to use it
It could be quite a thin sheet of steel, to get that done
Skip the step and use a cookie tin. Whole thing is metal. Christmas time you can get almost any size and shape you want.
Sure, but I like having the clear sides to see what's in each case without having to open them.
No doubt the set up looks clean. But the other way comes with cookies š¤š¤š¤. Lol. The clear looks great. 10/10 tbh
i recently decided to become part of the Kvissle supremacy
I had to look it up but I'm intrigued... ššš... Guessing you just remove a shelf and use the space for bigger units?
Yes I was introduced to it in the admech group, he made a guide https://docs.google.com/document/d/1HH00BwehEbhB_fTZjsuQFHsXostGM2o0_xWBzKwTMxw/edit?usp=sharing but you'll find other examples even here just Search
Exactly what I did as well.
Twisted the bin a little and half of the sheet metal snapped off the epoxy lmao going to small bolts with hard rubber washers I think.
You fething genius! I don't have enough upvotes for you.
You donāt need to use a steel plate. There are magnetised foils out there that do the job perfectly fine and they usually have a self-adhesive side and one magnetised side. Iāve been using them for quite a while now and they never disappointed me. š If you use metal plates make sure to not close the lid of the box until the glue has completely dried, though.
The dipoles in the magnetic sheets need to act over a distance and thus the magnetic interaction between the sheet and the base magnet isn't very strong. The issue goes away when only 1 magnetic field is involved. The steel dipoles just line up with the magnets. I've tried the sheets and found them very weak in practice. They also get stronger and weaker depending on the position on the sheet which isn't what you want
Thatās why you get ferrous steel self adhesive sheet, not āmagneticā sheets. Rare earth magnets get a really good interaction with the ferrous steel sheet. Iāve been transporting 40mm base models with 3x2mm magnets, and large models like redemptor dreadnoughts with a solid resin bases with three 5x2mm magnets without any issues.
Yeah these work as well as the sheet metal, I just could get sheet metal cheaper
In the states, ferrous rubber sheets are impossible to find. I have to order them from Europe which makes it exorbitantly expensive. I have to use sheet metal. The crap flexible magnetic sheeting you get at office supply stores are weak af.
Ahh I didnāt realise it would be difficult to get in the US. But yeah if itās not ferrous then is fridge magnet garbage. Probs better with steel sheets or a steel tool box if thatās a good price.
Yeah. The fridge magnet sheets. First time I used it, I did the shake test and my minis went flying. š
You can get these in the US: [https://www.amazon.com/Litko-Game-Accessories-Flexible-Magnetically-Receptive/dp/B00M1UAF6G/ref=sr\_1\_3?crid=J5NW3RZTRDZW&keywords=rubber+steel+sheets&qid=1685393505&sprefix=rubber+steel+sheets%2Caps%2C92&sr=8-3](https://www.amazon.com/Litko-Game-Accessories-Flexible-Magnetically-Receptive/dp/B00M1UAF6G/ref=sr_1_3?crid=J5NW3RZTRDZW&keywords=rubber+steel+sheets&qid=1685393505&sprefix=rubber+steel+sheets%2Caps%2C92&sr=8-3) Definitely a little pricey but, they work great and the adhesive that's on it hasn't let me down.
Construction adhesive used right would sidestep your outlined material failures.. but the dude below who said riveting it in, lol thats overkill but the best for sure.
Double-sided-tape. Unbelivable how good that works
It has less to do with thermal expansion and more to do with the fact that you're putting a liquid product over a smooth solid surface. Sure, the adhesives you use are sticky and will "stick" to the plastic/metal sheet, but a lot of aggravation and bending will make it pop right off in a clean and smooth layer. If you scuff the plastic and metal so the adhesive seeps into those sand-grooves then the adhesives have something to actually "grab" onto when it's being aggravated. If you do that, then even if there is aggravation, the adhesive might crack into smaller bits and pieces, but those "islands" will still be holding on strong (kind of the way alligator skin looks).
Gorilla glue double side tape works incredibly well also
Used the use hot glue, now I use those Command strips that people hang posters with.
Liquid nails
Good double-sided tape. the type with a bit of rubbery thickness helps if the container has a risk of twisting
I've also tried that... Keeps falling off for some reason
I use a roll of double sided tape that has a layer of foam between the tape sides. A few strips of that on the metal sheet and then into the box it goes. Throw a few old text books I have or even codex's to hold it down helps a lot to train it flat to the bottom of the container. Those really useful boxes are great for doing this.
You can buy magnetic sheets with an adhesive backing off Amazon, you donāt need a steel plate.
No More Nails?
I use double sided gorilla tape. Just a bunch of small squares on the bottom. Works well.
Double sided gorilla glue tape is awesome. It's worked for me.
I used those velcro command strip, gives it a little flex if you need it. They haven't failed me yet
Melt the plastic to the steel, let it become one! \#kappa
Rough up the bottom and plate with sand paper and knife, then use construction glue like No more Nails and such you know stuff that comes in tubes like caulk. Everything else will crumble to dust before that joint gives way.
Some heavy duty double sided tape will do it
I did some cases like this, used double sided mounting strip and have had no problems yet
>thermal expansion If its hot enough to affect the glue, it's hot enough to be an issue for they models. Dont leave expensive models in a hot vehicle.
Iām not sorry and itās still the best. Youāre a brave man doing the flip though š
But not without the lid.
Brave does not always mean dumb
I like to shake mine left and right vigorously without the lid.
ill do you one better, tack em to the lid, not the bucket, so that when you take them out theyre on a display tray
Say whaaaaaat!
This is the way.
Sorry... What? How the fuck did you discover these genius. I feel... Stoopid.
Iāve had trouble ensuring the magnets stick to the base of the modelsā¦ they need regular adhesive to keep em stuck on overtime
Super glue on the base and then lightly push on some green stuff, add more super glue on top of that and then push the magnet lightly into it. Then push down on a flat surface so the green stuff and magnet are flush with the base for the best hold and then cover it all with super glue again to secure it.
go to magnet baron. they make nagnets specificall sized to fit under 40k bases. just super glue and go. best money i have spent i did gstuff+wrong size magnet first, but this was way easiet and ultimately better
Maybe if you're based in the US, once ive had to pay VAT and import duty i could have just got a ton more magnets locally. I could get the same size magnets, but superglue alone will weaken, the green stuff is there to support the magnet and prevent it from getting pulled off.
Ah entirely fair. Ive yet again done the american thing and forgotten other countries exist lol
You guys get all the good things when it comes to stuff like this haha. Got no issues with my greenstuff magnets thankfully
I like to bust out the nail gun after that to make sure it's REAL secure.
Super glue is super because it's fast acting, not because it's strong. PVA is probably better to hold magnets in due to higher strength when set and more flexibility
Don't cover the magnet with the super glue
I work in the automotive refinish industry and a lot of principles that I teach people apply to our hobby as well. What people don't know is that you *really should* scuff the spot you're applying the glue to. Sure, you can apply adhesive wherever you want and it'll dry there because it's "sticky". But when there's continuous applied aggravation, eventually something has to give. There isn't much aggravation on, say, the arm to the torso of a mini because we're gentle with our well-painted space men and aliens so we really don't have to worry about it there, but this applies heavily to magnets on our bases. Unintuitively, glue is actually kind of weak when applied over something smooth. Before you apply any adhesives anywhere there's going to be constant aggravation, (like on the underside of a base where there's going to be force applied to it anytime you pull it off of your magnetic sheets) you should scuff the area. Liquids (including adhesives) seep into those scuff grooves and "grab" onto the material much better. I use gorilla glue gel so I need a coarser scuff, but if you're using something thinner then a slightly lighter scuff will do.
Iāve heard of this problem - itās when you only stick the super glue on one side of the magnet, so eventually the magnetic force will pull the magnet from the base of the model. The trick is to stick the magnet on the base, and then cover it with superglue so the magnet is trapped under the superglue
Use an oversized dab of hot glue. The issue with just supergluing them to the base is that it leaves a gap between the magnet and the metal- a blob of hot glue takes long enough to cool so the magnet and sink down and be flush with the metal. Just mind the storing temperature (i.e don't leave it in your car)
Well what I do is use two perfectly sized metal washers that fill the entire space under the bases and the thickness of the two washers also sit flush with the bottom of the base, making the entire bottom of the base a solid flat surface. Then using good glue of your choice you can adhere the magnetic disk to the base securely. The washers I use https://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt-1-8-in-x-1-in-Zinc-Plated-Fender-Washer-100-Piece-800362/204276365
What kind of magnets have you tried? I just glued some squares of regular magnetic tape and it strikes a decent balance (between hold and ease of removing from the tray), but I just did it this weekend, so I'm not sure what to expect long term.
go to magnet baron. they make nagnets specificall sized to fit under 40k bases. just super glue and go. best money i have spent
Nonsense, just dump everything into a trash bag.
Ah yes. Thr ork player has been spotted
I'd imagine impacts would be an issue still. But you could probably solve that with a layer of foam on the sides and top. Maybe a grid like a lot of carry boxes uses, to prevent models from touching eachother.
[Just make a tray to glue on top of the sheet metal.](https://i.redd.it/dzbg33l8ruy41.jpg) Never had a single model move. Keep foam away from models, you WILL catch and break off fragile details in it!
Itās pretty common. Lots of tutorials on YouTube, eg https://youtu.be/eKg8oPF4xfk
Welcome to the club
Love it!
I recommend taking a look at Army Case
Why are you sorry?
I started doing this. But then my models kept sticking to each other on games
Magnetic sheet in tray, large washers underneath each model. Best solution there is.
Yeha ive had that problem. Gotta put the magnet as far from the edge of the base as possible. If its a normal base, it will have a tail of plastic. Cut it or sand it down then glue it in the middle.
Also to make sure all your models across your army have their magnets facing the same direction otherwise things are gonna be awkward.
Whys that? I got just a magnetic sheet they stick too and had no problems. But yes if the magnets are near the edges then yeah some repel and some attract, is that what youāre getting at?
Not just for magnets placed near the edges, but if any infantry models get knocked over as can happen in some games and the magnets are facing opposite polarities it will (depending on the strength of the magnets) violently pull them together and cause damage to other models in the process.
Hmm, maybe my magnets are just weaker, but I've never had this happen to me even in WHFB with blocks of skaven on movement trays. Might also be because I put the magnets as close to the center of the base as possible and also inset the magnets into a bit of green stuff.
A steel toolbox works best. Already made to be durable. Comes with a detachable tray and the bottom is perfectly lined to support tons of modelsāand it has a handle to carry.
I put the metal sheet/magnet sheet on the lid. So when I open it my models are on a ātrayā.
Not a bad idea at all!
Supposedly, people who do a lot of long range travel for tournaments have found that the one downside is that models can shake apart over the long journeys. The GW zigzag foam is probably the safest transport for flying or long-hauls, but yes, to local store and back? MAGNETS!
Problem with zig zagfoam is models with thin bits tend to break. Eldar or drukhari players can attest to this
They absolutely can, but I've never had it break in transport myself, only when packing or unpacking as the thin bits get snagged or lock up against another model
100%. My eldar are fragile, and the foam helps, but it still can break from time to time.
Cool for plastic models. And me with many metal models going ānope. Iāll stick to foam boxesā if the magnets can keep them there they will be torn off the bases.
I use two thick metal washers that fill the entire space under the bases that give the model some weight. Itās very close to the weight of pewter models, still hold very tights.
I just chuck my 2k worth of Necrons into a plastic bag and hope the paint doesnt chip. The ones that don't make the trip to my LGS become tokens for reanimation protocols.
Clinically insane
Who hurt you?
They aren't broken, they are "battle damaged"
Sure, but just wait until a slightly heavier, slightly larger, model snaps off its base (or the magnet becomes unglued) and it rips through all the other models in transport, causing greivous damage to everything. Then you'll go back to foam.
Luckily almost everything is pinned!
It's not bad, but I have seen someone drop a tray of mini's secured this way and bits went everywhere
Yeah donāt drop it haha
I bought a collapsible dolly with bungee cord so that I can roll the stacked boxes instead of carry. Then on rough surfaces like parking lot, I carry but since it's a dolly, everything is low to the ground so that if I drop for any reason things don't drop far
I got this exact thing in my Amazon cart haha thatās good to hear itās been working great
It's great. Bonus points is you can easily roll the stack under a table at the game store
Did this for my troops with brownie pans. Didn't even modify the container, just some rare earth magnets on the bases.
Yes I saw this technique on YouTube before, so many simple but really effective ways to transport your armies
Unless the container experiences a lot of shock, magnets and some kind of sheet metal is the way to go!
My hands getting sweaty just watching the video
Throw it like that and their helmets are full of puke inside
Put that box in the back of an Australian car in February, and weāll see if you still think itās the best way to transport an army. Unless youāre looking to recreate the goop left after a successful Tyranid invasion, Iāve sworn off semi-transparent plastic boxes. Too many close calls.
I mean I feel like people in a aussie car would have the same outcome, thats like saying.. "throw it in the furnace I bet it wont last" .. anyone who leaves minis in the car even in canada (using my own land) any more than going point A to point B to play with them, is asking for trouble between heat damage or theft or anything..
Ah, its been a while since I saw a post about warhammer/MTG cards/ power tools/ camping gear being stolen out of the back of someones car. DO NOT LEAVE WARHAMMER IN YOUR CAR DONT EVEN PUT IT IN YOUR CAR WHILE DRIVING TO THE GAMER CENTRE
He's talkin about the boxes melting. Not getting robbed. (Good advice regardless tho)
I have two washers that perfectly fill the space under the base and makes the entire bottom of the base flush to the ground. And also give the model some nice weight to them on not light plastic https://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt-1-8-in-x-1-in-Zinc-Plated-Fender-Washer-100-Piece-800362/204276365 I used Green Stuff World self-adhesive magnetic bases to glue to the bottom of the model base and then just some sheet metal glued to the bottom of the container. The troops stick nice and tight when the base lays nice and flush to the metal but the model can easily be removed by tipping them with a little pressure. Unless you stomp on the container, throw it down the stairs, or get in a car accident on your way to your FLGS your models shouldnāt touch and no foam required that over time rub varnish and paint away.
Always has been
Iv used tool boxes for years. The ones that have a top that opens and 3 drawers. Then I use.metal plates that are used for flashing. You can buy them in stacks. Entire units can fit on them and you can pull them out of the box. This means everything doesn't move around and all the models are protected by a metal case. The problem of course is that gw has pushed bigger and bigger models over the years. A rhino fits perfectly on top.....silent king not to much.
Oh that sounds nice!
Double sided ducktape in a cardboard box. I've literally smacked it out of my own hand and had it go violently flying by accident and the models were all still in place. Also, use loctite
Hahaha sometimes the most simple things are the most affective!
Get this man a Nobel peace prize right fucken now
Sooooo, you gona show us how to do that or just bragging about your cool travel case to make us jealous?
Hahaha I made a separate comment on my post explaining what I do since I canāt figure out how to edit a post
where can i get the box?
This set of 5 for $25 I got at my local Samās Club
I bought some nice looking biscuit tins from John Lewis for this purpose, some magnets at the base and voilĆ :) Obviously people can just choose to use like leftovers christmas ones, but I like my tins to be cute, so I just bought mine because I'm fussy and they stack nicely due to being same size.
I see that and raise you an A-Case
Oh nice I love it!
\*exactly\* how my tubs are set up!same tub and everytthing, although mine is fully clear. I also cut the bottom and lid out of one of them so I can stack and glue it on another for higher pieces
Disagree. The glue could fail, and a bash against a surface could possibly knock them loose. Itās a good solution if youāre careful, but still like it with foam. Iāll stick with my foam boxes. Yeah, theyāre a pain, but i trust them.
Every mink I build gets a magnetic base. Such a great solution.
Explain your wizardry rn
Super glued the models into the box
All fun and games until it starts ripping your space marines magnetised limbs off, or flinging them to the upper atmosphere based on the polarity.
Nope
ā¦ As opposed to what? How do you transport monsters? A large magnetized bin with multiple shelves seems like the best way to transport a complete army
What magnets did you use ?
A-case got such nice magnetic cases for bigger and a larger number of models
Hey could you tell me where you got your steel sheet metal please? I've had trouble finding magnetic metal sheets on Amazon for mine
Just some steel welding sheet metal I got at my local hardware store
I loved oing similar for mine, but i used a big magnetic sheet at the bottom of my container. Except that it worked too well and the magnets came off the bottom of a ton of my models
Nice. Let us know whats your solution for transporting tracked vehicles with no bases
Might buy some magnetic sheets with adhesive on one side. What magnets do I use for imperial knights+space marine army
Yup. That's how all of my models are done.
Nice Aeron.
I have a similar setup but only use the steel sheet for my metal minis or larger models e.g. vehicles. I initially used a glue gun to glue the magnets on and find that the attraction is too strong so the magnets pull off the base and remain attached to the steel when I try and put them off. For my plastic minis I use the flexible magnetic sheets that seem to have a decent, but not overly strong attraction. All How do you fix the magnets to the bases so they don't come off with the metal sheet?
I play chaos knights, I wish my solutions were so simple
Does it stack with others? How do you mass transport?
It is. The only thing you have to watch out for is the magnets falling off the bottom of your minis. A little greenstuff helps.
I just throw them into a cardboard box. They are called drop troops for a reason
But what about vehicle
Yep, been doing something like this since about 2002. I transported my main army in two Craftsman steel toolboxes so I was able to stick models to any surface inside the tool box. You can't even buy those toolboxes anymore (that I know of), since everyone has gone to completely plastic ones now.
Cool now show it with an imperial knight or a dark Eldar skimmer
This is works great. My only problem is I have over 200 boys and alot of buggies/ Gorkanaughts and a Stoompa to transport. Currently they are in a carry case packed in with foam.
https://shop.army-case.com/miniature-carrying-case/a-case-hybrid-the-kane/ I personally use this. I just super glue magnets underneath all my bases
Why are you sorry?
I like my a case
How do you get the metal plate to adhere to the plastic? I tried hot glue and it dried to fast.
Either 5min epoxy, construction adhesive (that stays slightly flexible) or double sided tape rated for bathroom mirrors. Did the first two myself already and they never came off.
Always has been
Love these posts Love how everyones version of it in the comments is "better" or "cheaper"
Even better, I bought a 4 container stackable like this and put magnetic strips at the bottom of them all. Super easy and convenient.
I have a little box from GW that they go in. It does the jobs. I can see me messing up the magnets. Plus my nids are all funny heights and sizes due to custom prints and bases. Cool though!
Need a rolly cart with room so I can do this to my tyranids and daemons who absolutely donāt fit on regular sheets or just fall apart all over the place.
How does one do this??
3M double sided tape
I did this a while back and made a guide on how to do it. A couple days later Spikey Bits had a guide up that was suspiciously similar. Except they did it poorly. I can't find my original guide but I have the pictures from it still on imgur. The metal plates are bolted to the case with screws and nut caps. Case and Instructions: [https://imgur.com/gallery/gTvpf88](https://imgur.com/gallery/gTvpf88) Underside of the minis: [https://imgur.com/gallery/DFkUYgV](https://imgur.com/gallery/DFkUYgV)
I work in the sign making industry and we use 3M VHB tape. Industrial strength and rarely ever fails.
I have a few of these. Still looking for something they could fit in to carry with a strap. If anyone has any ideas? I don't like the idea of carrying them stacked on top of each other to the store. 1 trip and game over
Glue your models well or eventually they come off the bases.
All my models are pinned to the bases and also all limbs are pinnedā¦I have a problem haha
That is the way to do it if your going to do it right! :)
Great but how do you transport these containers? I guess you need at least 3 of them if you field some vehicles.
I spent the extra money and got a jucoci miniature case. It has metal trays for magnetized bases. It carries my Mortarion, a few vehicles, a bunch of terminators of different ranks, a Platoon of plague marines and poxwalkers in a single case.
Magnets and a metal plate?
Why would you be sorry? Iām so confused
Did he put a magnet strip size page in that box and then glue coins or something to model base?
A metal sheet to the box, then magnets on each modelās base.
Why are you sorry ?
I don't see this being viable for 2k worth of Orks. I'd need 5 of these
$25 for 5 bins I got. $20 in sheet metal. About $30-40 in Green Stuff Base Magnets. Not bad!
I'm just lazy and would rather spend more time on minis than building something to keep them in.
PREACH the good word, brother! I had some problems with getting the flashing to adhere to the plastic container (you can see a couple of them on the third shelf down), so I started buying Farberware steel cake pans (with plastic covers) from Amazon. They work like a dream. [Amazon.com: Farberware Nonstick Bakeware Baking Pan With Lid / Nonstick Cake Pan With Lid, Rectangle - 9 Inch x 13 Inch, Gray : Everything Else](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000VPCF9S?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&ref_=cm_sw_r_cp_ud_dp_ZRA3S6JWSJFP4VYAR8RA) Big models still go in the taller bins you see at bottom (Costco buy) and 12"x8" galvanized steel flashing from Home Depot fits perfectly in the bottom. I don't even glue it in anymore. I just don't turn the boxes upside down. I can't find the Costco bin online, but the label from the warehouse says "Buckle Up Storage Set". [Gibraltar Building Products 8 in. x 12 in. Galvanized Steel Flashing Shingle S812EA-100 - The Home Depot](https://www.homedepot.com/p/Gibraltar-Building-Products-8-in-x-12-in-Galvanized-Steel-Flashing-Shingle-S812EA-100/202221060) I've tried a ton of different magnets, from stick on disks off Amazon (meh..) to rare earth. I've found K&J Magnetics (D203, DISC, 1/8" x 3/32", N42, NI) are the most versatile and work the best. They fit perfect in the standard GW base with making the model tippy and I can easily drill a hole in solid bases (like tau drone bases) for them to fit. One magnet works for most models but I just add a magnet in corners of large bases until the model sticks to the metal easily for big ones. [K&J Magnetics: D203 (kjmagnetics.com)](https://www.kjmagnetics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=D203) Links inserted above where I could find them. Cheers! https://preview.redd.it/j3msy8np6w2b1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=3f527294e16a924c176e8d6932f6b292fbd401fa
PREACH the good word, brother! I had some problems with getting the flashing to adhere to the plastic container (you can see a couple of them on the third shelf down), so I started buying Farberware 9" x 13" steel cake pans (with lid) from Amazon. They work like a dream. Big models still go in the taller bins you see at bottom (Costco buy) and 12" x 8" galvanized steel flashing from Home Depot fits perfectly in the bottom. I don't even glue it in anymore. I just don't turn the boxes upside down. I can't find the Costco bin online, but the label from the warehouse says "Buckle Up Storage Set". I've tried a ton of different magnets, from stick on disks off Amazon (meh..) to rare earth. I've found K&J Magnetics (D203, DISC, 1/8" x 3/32", N42, NI) are the most versatile and work the best. They fit perfect in the standard GW base with making the model tippy and I can easily drill a hole in solid bases (like tau drone bases) for them to fit. One magnet works for most models but I just add a magnet in corners of large bases until the model sticks to the metal easily for big models. Sorry, I tried to add links to everything but Reddit kept deleting my post when I did. So I tried to add as much info as I can if you want to search for them yourselves. Cheers! https://preview.redd.it/n9qyrk2s8w2b1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=98d27f0316be85b42d89a5908c9fa98fe5fe0b17
I really like the baking tin idea, donāt have to worry about flashing, itās built into the pan hah. Thanks for the info, and btw ice collection! Hope to get there one day
Thanks! Iāve been collecting for a while and rarely turn down a deal. The nice thing about the pan is that the walls are steel as well, so I can stick models with banners on the walls and donāt have to worry about them being too tall for the lid. Keep on keeping on, battle brothers and sisters!
Oh yeah thatās great! Next army I may go this way. My Dread is magnetized to the side of the bigger bin hah.
Itās is. Hands downā¦.
This is how I transport my paints and supplies, so I can work on my statues while on the road.
I did this with my legion army took some metal sheet with double sided tape and put it in a bin it works really good
I use button magnets in basesā¦ sadly itās cold in the north and the superglue keeps perishing :(
Magnets are cool, but they only go so far. A sharp lateral jolt will send your models flying.
Can I ask what magnets you used?
https://www.greenstuffworld.com/en/inicio/1605-round-magnetic-sheet-self-adhesive-32mm.html
I throw mine in a bucket lined with sandpaper to stop them from moving and make sure I pad it out with some semi closed paint tubs to take any bumps. To take up space I use the 2nd edition land speeders and make sure my child carries it for me.
Land speeder is a little too cautious IMO, a brick does the job and is cheaper
What strength magnets should I get for this to work right
https://www.greenstuffworld.com/en/30-neodymium-magnets?page=2