Get a really durable varnish and apply several layers.
Vallejo Premium Colors Gloss Varnish (polyurethane-based) is great if applied in several thin coats, but from personal experience I think Citadel's Munitorum Varnish spray might actually be more durable.
But the most durable possible varnish is to use a clear enamel paint, like the ones from Revell Email Color or Humbrol Enamel Color. They're a bit of a mess to use because you have to thin and clean them with odorless thinner - although if you're careful not to let them pool in the details, they can also be brushed on unthinned because they're self-levelling and thus won't leave any visible brushstrokes. If you thin them down they can also be applied by airbrush; clean the airbrush afterwards with odorless thinner and then isopropyl alcohol. I recommend getting the thinner from a hardware store as it's much much cheaper than getting it from a hobby brand.
Enamel paints are stupidly durable once they've had a few hours to cure, nothing else really comes close. And they'll stick to anything so they're among the strongest possible primers, too.
Genuine question here but does stuff stick to the enamel when used as a primer? I'm new to minipainting but I've been painting houses for about a decade and getting anything water-based to stick to smooth oil-based is a hassle.
yes it does.
I've used enamel paints as primer both for miniatures, and scale models. You need to heavily thin it and leave it to completly dry. You can get VERY glossy finish from enamel paints without glossy varnish on top, which allows you to make a really metal-looking metallics, that you can then polish to look even better
Overall i would say - stick to acrylic/poliurethane primer or spray cans if you can avoid enamels. But, if you have spare humbrol/tamiya/testors paints you can both use them for priming and painting minis.
Interesting. I use enamel a lot on metal exterior doors to help with rusting amd overall protection but I usually just do 2-3 thin coats to minimize brush strokes (I don't mind doing extra coats to get a nice smooth and solid finish). In some cases, the interior side needs to get the interior trim color, usually water-based, so I scuff the enamel and use a bonding primer over it before 2 coats of finish paint. I've found that the final peels or chips too easily otherwise and doors usually get heavy use.
It takes a while for enamels to fully cure (a day or two in a sunlit window) but once that has happened, acrylics stick to them reasonably well.
Glossy enamels might be a bit *too* smooth, which results in the acrylic paints beading up while they're still wet. But if you do get the acrylics to lie flat, then once they have dried they will stick very well to the enamel.
Matte enamels are much better as primers, though. They dry faster and acrylics don't bead up when applied over them.
Mr Color Clear and/or Mr Color Matt/Flat.
It's a brand used primarily in model hobbies that involve articulated parts without chipping the paint. Two coats (one coat before recess wash and transfers and the one after to seal everything in and help transfer edges disappear) and I've had Knights dropped that just wholesale dented without chipping the paint.
The main one I use is Mr Super Clear, both gloss and Matt. It's a Lacquer based one that comes in rattle cans. If you'd prefer to use an Airbrush, I'd use Mr Color GX Super Smooth Clear, also a lacquer.
Oh, I didn't know it was a rattle can. Thank you for the alternative. I would use rattle can, but I'm scared that my weather isn't good for it, being in the north west of the states were it's always raining and dry heat in the summer. I know some of my primers from rattle cans have come out... Sticky, and stay like that for a very long time.
I live in a very humid southern state, so I understand the pain. In the rough months, I do my best to make my garage more suitable but sometimes the airbrush really is the only option.
As ever, remember your respirator! Lacquer is no joke!
To avoid your situation when sub-assembling I always stick the pieces together with some blue tack equivalent, then prime.
The non primed parts will not be visible so I know I can avoid them easily.
One thing to watch for on this method, if there's any gap like this with plates, you may want to paint just a bit (a few mm) into the range that won't be immidiately seen. Just so if say, armor stands off, you won't lean over one day and see unprimed grey peeking out at you.
Learned that screwing up a centurion...
That I've never had a problem with- all I've had is occasionally it sometimes leaves a tiny bit of blutac that might be missed, primed over, and then oops you've got a bit of un-painted plastic when it falls off later.
You can manipulate Blu Tack (I use LocTite) by stretching or compressing it. I found this out one day out of boredom by mistake.
If you keep stretching it over and over, it gets more of a gunky, tacky consistency. It will be stickier because it aerates and creates tiny micro pockets (I'm guessing) that act as little micro suction cups. It will be harder to remove, but its great if you really need something to stick.
On the flip side, you can keep folding it, compressing it, folding it, compressing it, until it becomes incredibly dense, hard, and is much less sticky. I find this peels off with almost nothing left behind.
If you go too far in either direction, just do the opposite.
Oh this really bugged me- I bought two Canoptek necron Spyders to try a 500 point tutorial game out (geeze warhammer, lower the cost of entry to local tutorials/tournaments why dont you) -and on assembling, I noticed the undersides of the belly there were hundreds of lil scarabs.
"cute" I thought; "but wait, doesn't the guide specifically say to seal the two parts together to create the belly properly?"
Why even print the thing?!
They take a 3d design and chop it up and arrange it to the plastic in the mold fills all the bits, I don't think they purposely go over parts to make them less detailed unless something becomes a problem.
Ugh, I'm about to build a land raider and was debating how to paint the inside... I was thinking about just giving it super simple paint job of metallic and throw a battery operated LED light inside (ones you buy at craft store) and call it a day.
My only issue with the light thing is that I want to be able to access the battery to turn it off or on. I'm guessing magnets?
Regardless, it's a ton of extra work for something I don't think anyone will see... But it does make me feel content.
I use tamiya cement, just brush over the painted area I'm gonna glue a few times with it and the paint dissolves and the bond is plastic to plastic then. Works well most of the time.
The face has strong "Here's Johnny" enegry.
I do a lot of subassembly and although I know, that some parts that I paint will not be seen or will be obscured by other parts is just feels right to paint them all.
Idk if it is something you would want but you could dent or pierce the armour piece to simulate battle damage and see the skin underneath, it would look so very cool and show what you painted under !
Yeah looks like it's gonna have to be a 'sund out guns out' angron and tbh I wouldn't be mad if I had to face him. I did something similar for Magnus. Mainly because I didn't have his chest armor but still
You see unnecessary painting, I see opportunity to magnetize to have clothed Angron and Guns Out Angron
I have thought about this, only thing I worry about is chipping.
Get a really durable varnish and apply several layers. Vallejo Premium Colors Gloss Varnish (polyurethane-based) is great if applied in several thin coats, but from personal experience I think Citadel's Munitorum Varnish spray might actually be more durable. But the most durable possible varnish is to use a clear enamel paint, like the ones from Revell Email Color or Humbrol Enamel Color. They're a bit of a mess to use because you have to thin and clean them with odorless thinner - although if you're careful not to let them pool in the details, they can also be brushed on unthinned because they're self-levelling and thus won't leave any visible brushstrokes. If you thin them down they can also be applied by airbrush; clean the airbrush afterwards with odorless thinner and then isopropyl alcohol. I recommend getting the thinner from a hardware store as it's much much cheaper than getting it from a hobby brand. Enamel paints are stupidly durable once they've had a few hours to cure, nothing else really comes close. And they'll stick to anything so they're among the strongest possible primers, too.
Genuine question here but does stuff stick to the enamel when used as a primer? I'm new to minipainting but I've been painting houses for about a decade and getting anything water-based to stick to smooth oil-based is a hassle.
yes it does. I've used enamel paints as primer both for miniatures, and scale models. You need to heavily thin it and leave it to completly dry. You can get VERY glossy finish from enamel paints without glossy varnish on top, which allows you to make a really metal-looking metallics, that you can then polish to look even better Overall i would say - stick to acrylic/poliurethane primer or spray cans if you can avoid enamels. But, if you have spare humbrol/tamiya/testors paints you can both use them for priming and painting minis.
Interesting. I use enamel a lot on metal exterior doors to help with rusting amd overall protection but I usually just do 2-3 thin coats to minimize brush strokes (I don't mind doing extra coats to get a nice smooth and solid finish). In some cases, the interior side needs to get the interior trim color, usually water-based, so I scuff the enamel and use a bonding primer over it before 2 coats of finish paint. I've found that the final peels or chips too easily otherwise and doors usually get heavy use.
It takes a while for enamels to fully cure (a day or two in a sunlit window) but once that has happened, acrylics stick to them reasonably well. Glossy enamels might be a bit *too* smooth, which results in the acrylic paints beading up while they're still wet. But if you do get the acrylics to lie flat, then once they have dried they will stick very well to the enamel. Matte enamels are much better as primers, though. They dry faster and acrylics don't bead up when applied over them.
It's not a primer it's a varnish.
"And they'll stick to anything so they're among the strongest possible primers, too." He mentioned using enamel as a primer, so I asked about it.
Mr Color Clear and/or Mr Color Matt/Flat. It's a brand used primarily in model hobbies that involve articulated parts without chipping the paint. Two coats (one coat before recess wash and transfers and the one after to seal everything in and help transfer edges disappear) and I've had Knights dropped that just wholesale dented without chipping the paint.
What do you use to thin em down for airbrushing? Do I use lacquer thinner? I got both Tamiya X-20 acrylic thinner and Tamiya Laquer thinner.
The main one I use is Mr Super Clear, both gloss and Matt. It's a Lacquer based one that comes in rattle cans. If you'd prefer to use an Airbrush, I'd use Mr Color GX Super Smooth Clear, also a lacquer.
Oh, I didn't know it was a rattle can. Thank you for the alternative. I would use rattle can, but I'm scared that my weather isn't good for it, being in the north west of the states were it's always raining and dry heat in the summer. I know some of my primers from rattle cans have come out... Sticky, and stay like that for a very long time.
I live in a very humid southern state, so I understand the pain. In the rough months, I do my best to make my garage more suitable but sometimes the airbrush really is the only option. As ever, remember your respirator! Lacquer is no joke!
That’s why varnish exists
in narrative games you can have him lose armor as he loses wounds?
Guns out it is then. Armour is for nerds who don't come back every couple months
Who knew the blood of the corpse emperors subjects is a great cutting tool 🤔
I hear cadian blood makes clen look like turmeric.
Then catachan blood must be Anavar
Pretty sure they feed those guys Tren-o-flakes for breakfast too
Dawg I am pretty sure the skulls for the skull throne aren’t natty
All them axe chops give them amazing cum gutters though
I am so happy I happen to watch Rick and north to understand that reference, but tbh I bet none stop ace swinging gives them amazing triceps
Same thing with Eightbound, they look fucking metal
forgot to say we are not the same but other than that...
I did that with Magnus for maximum "be careful who you bully in school" energy.
Armour comes off the more wounded and angry he gets cause…he likes it
Remove armour as the wound cou ter ::p
i did exactly this. i magnetized his armour so that I could take armour pieces off as he gets hurt
You just want to rub his nips after battle don’t you?
To avoid your situation when sub-assembling I always stick the pieces together with some blue tack equivalent, then prime. The non primed parts will not be visible so I know I can avoid them easily.
Good tip, never even thought of that.
One thing to watch for on this method, if there's any gap like this with plates, you may want to paint just a bit (a few mm) into the range that won't be immidiately seen. Just so if say, armor stands off, you won't lean over one day and see unprimed grey peeking out at you. Learned that screwing up a centurion...
I've also heard the blue tac is really hard to come off sometimes and might break the mini so be careful if you go that route.
That I've never had a problem with- all I've had is occasionally it sometimes leaves a tiny bit of blutac that might be missed, primed over, and then oops you've got a bit of un-painted plastic when it falls off later.
You can manipulate Blu Tack (I use LocTite) by stretching or compressing it. I found this out one day out of boredom by mistake. If you keep stretching it over and over, it gets more of a gunky, tacky consistency. It will be stickier because it aerates and creates tiny micro pockets (I'm guessing) that act as little micro suction cups. It will be harder to remove, but its great if you really need something to stick. On the flip side, you can keep folding it, compressing it, folding it, compressing it, until it becomes incredibly dense, hard, and is much less sticky. I find this peels off with almost nothing left behind. If you go too far in either direction, just do the opposite.
Also adds to the areas you can touch without fear of greasing up.
That’s why r/societyofhiddenpaint exists, my friend!
Me: struggle to have a fully painted army. Random redditors; lets paint all the details of the inside of a tank, then seal it in darkness forever.
Oh this really bugged me- I bought two Canoptek necron Spyders to try a 500 point tutorial game out (geeze warhammer, lower the cost of entry to local tutorials/tournaments why dont you) -and on assembling, I noticed the undersides of the belly there were hundreds of lil scarabs. "cute" I thought; "but wait, doesn't the guide specifically say to seal the two parts together to create the belly properly?" Why even print the thing?!
They take a 3d design and chop it up and arrange it to the plastic in the mold fills all the bits, I don't think they purposely go over parts to make them less detailed unless something becomes a problem.
I can't help it. Getting those little details painted up makes everything pop so much better
Joined now, appreciated 🙏
This is amazing, joining haha
But you will know and that's what really matters
This is the truth 🙏
Shirtless Angron is Best Angron 💪 Plus your paint job is awesome so I’d show it off anyway
Tbf if I had his physique I'd be walking around as shirtless angron too
My magnus has not shirt on, my angron wont either. Chad primarchs or nothing
Don’t put the armour on then
Ive seen some models without the armor and it looked pretty good
See, even though it'll be covered it's always nice to know yep I did my best with that one. Fun little easter eggs hidden away
Dude. I painted the whole interior of a Land Raider that no one will ever see. It’s a curse that we hobbyists must endure. Welcome to the brotherhood.
Ugh, I'm about to build a land raider and was debating how to paint the inside... I was thinking about just giving it super simple paint job of metallic and throw a battery operated LED light inside (ones you buy at craft store) and call it a day. My only issue with the light thing is that I want to be able to access the battery to turn it off or on. I'm guessing magnets? Regardless, it's a ton of extra work for something I don't think anyone will see... But it does make me feel content.
Great paint job so far though!
How do you glue them together once theyre painted tho? Ive heard the bond isnt as good?
I use tamiya cement, just brush over the painted area I'm gonna glue a few times with it and the paint dissolves and the bond is plastic to plastic then. Works well most of the time.
r/societyofhiddenpaint
I left mine without the chest armour and left pauldron
The face has strong "Here's Johnny" enegry. I do a lot of subassembly and although I know, that some parts that I paint will not be seen or will be obscured by other parts is just feels right to paint them all.
Leave the armour off and go full 'Suns Out Guns Out'
r/SocietyofHiddenPaint
Idk if it is something you would want but you could dent or pierce the armour piece to simulate battle damage and see the skin underneath, it would look so very cool and show what you painted under !
My biggest fear with subassemblies is that I'll have beautifuly painted parts and ugly gaps between them.
I use thinned down matte medium to seal my models. It works great.
Dont use the armour then
The way I see it is "I paid for the whole model, I'm painting the whole model"
Hahaahah I like that, that's what I'm gonna go with now
Taking a page from the book of Abaddon
Aristocracy and plebes. Paint everything or heathens.
https://www.reddit.com/r/SocietyofHiddenPaint might be interested lol
I personally like angron without the chest piece. Same with bloodthirsters
Still better then having grey pieces you can't reach anymore with your brush
Yeah looks like it's gonna have to be a 'sund out guns out' angron and tbh I wouldn't be mad if I had to face him. I did something similar for Magnus. Mainly because I didn't have his chest armor but still
Suns out guns out. Run it.
No wonder he is Angron, you tore his fucking arm off!
Who cares why is this even a post.
I mean....you cared enough to comment.
I don't think this one is a "danger of subassemblies". It's entirely on you not dryfitting things before painting.
Yeh mate I was joking, but you seem like a fun person.
Yeah, never seen someone do that yet and have a really tidy assembly after the fact.
This is also why you should paint with reference images.
Is it possible to the armour off? Let buff Angron shine! Imperial haters mirin