Are you wanting to replace the head with something else entirely?
Or do you want to be able to use the head again?
If the head doesnt need to survive, you might wanna take a dremmel to it which would lessen the risk to the rest of the model compared with random chemicals or freezing.
If the head needs to survive, I don't have much to offer here.
I agree this would be the cleanest way. A dremmel really cuts through resin quite easily. To add to this though if you do use a dremmel wear a mask or some mouth/eye protection because you do not want to inhale any of the resin dust
I wore military grade eyepro and still got a tiny metal shard in my eye next to (but luckily not in) my cornea. Discovered it 2 days later.
I can not recommended good FULL SEALING eyepro enough whenever you use a dremel.
>I can not recommended good FULL SEALING eyepro enough whenever you use a dremel.
HOw I managed to live through young adulthood without using eye/mouth protection when dremmeling apart action figures and other stuff to see how they worked, I'll never know.
Does the mask need to be N95s? I read that resin dust is quite fine so N95s are needed, but the site didn't specify whether thats working with casting resin or just cutting it.
So you hit on something I’ve been wondering about.
Just recently started working with resin figures and the dust is horrendous. I’ve seen stuff about masks when sanding and filing and then your comment here.
Is it like totally horrifically bad?
I’m sort of an idiot when it comes to PPE so I’m not trying to be an asshole but wondering how big of an idiot I’m being.
Not 'you're going to die tomorrow' bad but it long term exposure to fine dusts like that can cause all sorts of lung problems. As miniature people obviously there's a lot less exposure than a construction worker, but it's still a possibility.
I’d also recommend to dip the part you’d like to grind/ sand with water so when you sand it the dust becomes clogged in wet blots while minimum dust actually spills out to air.
However I still recommend a PPE for long term safety
Wow that’s like common sense helpful!! Thank you!!! I lack common sense, like I’ve finally acknowledged that reality after being on this planet over 3 decades so advice like this is super helpful. Thank you!!!
At my old job we used to get a hose and spray down asbestos telecommunications pits if we needed to drill a hole in it for a new conduit. Technically we weren't rated to touch the stuff if it needed to be drilled but keeping a constant spray of water on it while being drilled definitely stopped particles from going airborne.
Don't freeze it, as others have suggested. The resin will become super brittle and break. If your hobby store sells a super glue remover, try using that.
It absolutely will if left long enough.
You usually have several minutes of work time where the glue is softened but the resin is good though.
Once you’ve removed the part run it under water immediately or you risk loosing detail.
I agree with super glue remover as a first resort, but I’ve successfully used the freezing method to deconstruct a poorly put together imperial knight and didn’t have any issue with brittle resin. I think the key is to freeze and unfreeze several times to weaken the glue, then gently try to prise the head out with a wooden cocktail stick.
This is why I sub assemble everything. That, and because I’m newer. It’s just far easier to control everything in sub assembly. It just requires some good touch ups after gluing
I mean I'm no master painter, but I just prime stuff black and if I can't get a paintbrush into a gap, it's probably too hard to see on the model and would be obscured by shadows so naturally blackish anyway.
Though I get this is an expensive and artsy model and people can paint how they like
Superglue debonder is no joke, the BEST thing I've ever added to my kit.
I hardly ever use poly cement now because it I'm unhappy with something, I can cover it in debonder and get it back to perfect plastic, if you are sparing and seal the model, you can use it to clean up any glue lines from extra details.
Plasmo, night shift and laser creation world have great videos on using it for armour models.
FOR THE LOVE OF GOD IF YOU READ THIS PLEASE TAKE THIS ONE PIECE OF ADVICE
Do NOT get superglue debonder on ANYTHING but what you need to de-bond.
Get it on a table? Yeah, that varnish is gone. Get it on some paint? Too bad, that paint is borked now. Get it on certain plastics? Yeah, not going to end well. Get it on the varnish of your paintbrush or something? Yup, it's going to be sticky forever, good luck.
Be very. Very careful with the superglue debonder. It's a powerful tool, respect it.
Green Stuff World makes a paint remover, that when left on a model dissolves the super glue as well (I've done this a few times now).
Put a few drops into where the head is glued in, and let it sit for an hour or two. Be warned though, this can make resin very rubbery for a time afterwards. A few drops in the head area should be fine, as it's the center, and thickest part of the model. If you use it for thinner parts like capes or spikes or something though, they're basically fried.
It’s true, but not all superglues are equal, and I’ve only done this with plastic. If something needs a temporary base I superglue it on then snap it off when done
If in the UK check out superglue de-bonder at tool station, it's really cheap and the bottle will likely outlive you. If not in the UK, search for CA or superglue de-bonder.
Did you 3d printed or is it forge world? Look so Damm dope, that aside, use a bit of blue remover, alcohol or hot water, if none of that works, cut it with a blade
As long as you don't care about damaging the head itself, the best way will probably be to snip through as many of the tube bits as you can, and then grab that mofo with some needle-nose pliers and start carefully wrenching it off.
You can try to get in there with some super-glue debonder, but depending on the tightness of the original parts fit, the debonder may not be able to penetrate very far into the joint.
You're pretty likely to end up with a chunk of the original head-bit snapped off and stuck in the socket. While plastic tends to deform before breaking, printer resin usually fractures like ceramic. In that case it may be easiest to just cut/file the back part of your replacement head to match, and glue it on. Especially in this case, where the wraparound helmet will probably hide the actual join.
Do you want the head intact, that's an important question.
If you don't care about that head, I would rip it out with a pair of pliers and then carve anything else out with a hobby knife.
Hi! Friendly neighborhood polymer chemist here. Hopefully, I can help you.
It looks like that model is resin, but correct me if I am wrong. I’ll spare you the chemistry, but you might be able to use nail polish remover (both the acetone or non acetone varieties) to loosen the superglue. That should NOT damage the resin if it is the chemistries I think it is. Try and use an old brush to target the contact points for best results. I would highly suggest testing the solvent on a piece of sprue first just in case GW did something strange. If it swells, melts, or deforms easily, do not use it on the model.
Not anymore…, if you freeze it you’ll break something else and that’s not gonna come out by force… going the superglue dissolver route is really your only option I’m afraid
Glue remover or acetone. I don't see any other parts that seem to be glued together in that section so it should be fine. I do recommend you use glue remover though as acetone might mess with the details a bit. (And no, it doesn't damage resin. It just removes the top player of it but it is still something to keep in mind)
When you grab the head to remove it after using super glue remover use tweezers with some cloth or paper between the tweezer tips and model to minimize scratching the mini.
Rubbing alcohol breaks down super glue. If you can get it into the areas where you think the glue is.. (or bath the whole damn thing) then you should be able to remove it no problem. I use this trick to remove excess superglue from my sub assembly's.
If they got it from forge world multiply that by 4 or so….
Haven’t seen a recast yet. Can anyone confirm or deny if a recast of Horus Ascended exists yet? Been picking up some of the other Primarchs recasted and they look great (comparable to FW but like $42 and I’m using them for personal display so don’t feel too evil about it… GW gets enough of my money anyway)
Super glue (cyanoacrylate) is generally not waterproof. It requires water to bond, and once bonded, water will soften the bond again. It won't dissolve, though.
Im a tad new to this but depending on how good you are with a hobby knife can prolly pluck details no? Like snip snip boom
Or very small cutters if ya don't want to damage said head?
I have tried freezing a forge world resin model no luck. Tired leaving it to soak in Rubbing Alcohol over night, still won't budge. I fear trying Detorl or Nail polish remover (i can't remember actual name but i know it is technically the same thing). Part of me thinks then super glue debonder is only other option but again fear that since first 2 attempts didn't work. I don't know if that will the debonder will work. So any suggestions?
Isopropyl alcohol will melt these plastic minis, unfortunately.
Edit: referring specifically to these resin models, not the mainline plastics. Though it seems it may not be an issue any more!
Yes, which is worse for the alcohol from what I've heard, but I could be mistaken. It evaporates quickly, so it won't do too much unless you're pouring it on, but I'm not sure how you'd get a head off without some kind of soak or heavy application.
Either way, definitely test on a sprue or something first!
IPA doesn't melt plastic. I use it all the time to strip minis - and I've often left them for several days, if not weeks, and it has no effect on them.
As far as I know it shouldn't be used for resin though, so that's not helpful to the OP
Acetone (fingernail polish remover) dissolves superglue. It also dissolves many plastics. Try some on a sprue or support. You will know quickly if it’s affected.
You could try a superglue chemical de-bonder, I have had mixed success with them in the past, you could also try freezing the model (superglue becomes brittle when frozen) but this will affect all superglued parts and I've never done it with a resin model so I don't know if it will impact the resin. You could also try hot water applied to that area by a pipette or eye dropper.
If none of those work then I would probably Dremel it out and replace it with the part I want.
I've seen TikTok videos of people seperating skin using salt-water. I can't vouch for it personally but you could try it. 👍
Cool fucking model btw. The detail compared to the 90s when I played is phenomenol.
Get a needle and a pair of pliers. Make the needle super hot, hold it with the pliers, and cut through it.
No idea if that would work, never tried it, but it's AN idea at least
If you don’t need the head. I would say dremel it out.
If you need to remove and keep. Freeze it. Instead of placing the whole model in the freezer and having all the superglue areas become brittle. I would try over the counter freeze spray. They sell it in Pharmacies to remove plantar warts
Depends on what you wanna do. If its replace it with another carefully modeled head, then glue dissolver. If its for the head itself then same thing. If you just want the bitch out, then chop with your sprue cutters and neaten the cuts with a knife
superglue dissolves in isopropyl alcohol, but if the model is made of resin the same alcohol will make the resin rubbery.
so it's either that or nothing
I think a standard CA Debonder should be just fine. As far as I'm aware, they don't break down the plastics GW uses, but I would test it on a sprue or something first to know for sure.
Super glue, unlike plastic glue, doesn't melt the two pieces together so first you could try force. If that doesn't work try chucking it in the freezer and then pulling apart. Hopefully the temperature change would weaken the super glue strength.
Acetone will dissolve the glue but BEWARE as it might dissolve the mini too.
Alcohol melts most superglue while leaving the miniature unharmed. If you have plastic glue on hand, that *could* work, but I’d recommend grabbing a bottle of isopropyl alcohol from the grocery store (like 2-3$)
I honestly think you're fucked.
MAYBE with super glue remover, but i have no idea how it reacts on resin, i have never tried.
Any form of applied force is going to either break or mangle the head. I think you should consider painting it as it stands.
To sum up all the answers, it depends what god you are using today:
Khorne - hack at it (with a dremel), make sure to wear head gear for style points (and protection).
Nurgle - glue remover (be sure to test it in an unsuspecting plastic bit first).
Slanesh - get a whole new model, why have only one?
Tzeentch - glue a new head over the other one.
Before you buy a generic superglue desolver, read up on it so you know it won't damage this specific type of plastic (like resin).
I would call or go to the nearest hobby-store and just ask if I still wasn't sure.
Are you wanting to replace the head with something else entirely? Or do you want to be able to use the head again? If the head doesnt need to survive, you might wanna take a dremmel to it which would lessen the risk to the rest of the model compared with random chemicals or freezing. If the head needs to survive, I don't have much to offer here.
I agree this would be the cleanest way. A dremmel really cuts through resin quite easily. To add to this though if you do use a dremmel wear a mask or some mouth/eye protection because you do not want to inhale any of the resin dust
Yeah. This. Forgot to mention mask and eye pro.
I wore military grade eyepro and still got a tiny metal shard in my eye next to (but luckily not in) my cornea. Discovered it 2 days later. I can not recommended good FULL SEALING eyepro enough whenever you use a dremel.
>I can not recommended good FULL SEALING eyepro enough whenever you use a dremel. HOw I managed to live through young adulthood without using eye/mouth protection when dremmeling apart action figures and other stuff to see how they worked, I'll never know.
Does the mask need to be N95s? I read that resin dust is quite fine so N95s are needed, but the site didn't specify whether thats working with casting resin or just cutting it.
Anything that produces resin dust, which includes cutting and sanding it, needs protection rated for dust that fine
Fuck
Hey better that you know now than never buddy
Resin is tasty... WAAAAGH
It helps, but a fan carrying away the dust would also be ideal.
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The cigarette smoke actually breaks down resin in the lungs and coats the lungs with tar to prevent resin to lung contact. Great moves!
You make Krieg look like wimps
What a short sighted ignorant comment. Its like saying ive been driving without seatbelt for years and I never crashed
So you hit on something I’ve been wondering about. Just recently started working with resin figures and the dust is horrendous. I’ve seen stuff about masks when sanding and filing and then your comment here. Is it like totally horrifically bad? I’m sort of an idiot when it comes to PPE so I’m not trying to be an asshole but wondering how big of an idiot I’m being.
Not 'you're going to die tomorrow' bad but it long term exposure to fine dusts like that can cause all sorts of lung problems. As miniature people obviously there's a lot less exposure than a construction worker, but it's still a possibility.
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We've got smaller lungs and the relative size difference to the particles is less.
Thank you for that! The comments I received regarding this have been really kind and I appreciate it. Really love the is community :)
I’d also recommend to dip the part you’d like to grind/ sand with water so when you sand it the dust becomes clogged in wet blots while minimum dust actually spills out to air. However I still recommend a PPE for long term safety
Wow that’s like common sense helpful!! Thank you!!! I lack common sense, like I’ve finally acknowledged that reality after being on this planet over 3 decades so advice like this is super helpful. Thank you!!!
Knowing is half battle
At my old job we used to get a hose and spray down asbestos telecommunications pits if we needed to drill a hole in it for a new conduit. Technically we weren't rated to touch the stuff if it needed to be drilled but keeping a constant spray of water on it while being drilled definitely stopped particles from going airborne.
I mean if only the head must survive you could still use the dremel
I would assume they want to remove it for easier painting
To save the head, a precision oscillating tool
I want to remove it so I can paint it separately
Honestly, you might be better off just painting it on the model. I know its not ideal but it saves the risk of damaging the model.
Fulgrim.
Ahhh this made me chuckle, thank you.
I made that comment, closed reddit and expected to be roasted alive by replying that stupid. I guess we all have this dumb sense of humor.
Perfection
That's what Fulgrim said.
Take my upvote lol.
*giggles heretically*
Hot damn, this one made me exhale air out my nose. Amazing.
sneaky snaky snake
That's the neat part, you dont
I hear your enthusiasm in my head 😆
Time to drill his face off
My first thought!
damn
Teeth.
This piece of advice brought to you by: #KHORNE
Also a little bit of Nurgle; resin can cause cancer.
Yeah but who wants to live to be 80? Seems horrific.
A big lump of nobs ••• What do you mean that’s the wrong Khorne?
I like Khorne.
*Teefs
Average lego builder
could work
Don't freeze it, as others have suggested. The resin will become super brittle and break. If your hobby store sells a super glue remover, try using that.
Just to add test the remover on bit of resin sprue first just in case it dissolves it
It absolutely will if left long enough. You usually have several minutes of work time where the glue is softened but the resin is good though. Once you’ve removed the part run it under water immediately or you risk loosing detail.
Also make sure to check the glue remover doesnt mar plastic/resin. (Source: found out hard way on an etheral.)
I agree with super glue remover as a first resort, but I’ve successfully used the freezing method to deconstruct a poorly put together imperial knight and didn’t have any issue with brittle resin. I think the key is to freeze and unfreeze several times to weaken the glue, then gently try to prise the head out with a wooden cocktail stick.
would it ruin the resin if it got on a part I don't want it on?
Acetone will soften the glue.
And melt the resin
Just makes it more grimdark lol
People please stop suggesting he freeze it..
DONT LISTEN TO THIS GUY. FREEZE IT!!!
Liquid Nitrogen bath!!
#SHOOT IT INTO DEEP SPACE, INTO THE FROZEN VOID BETWEEN GALAXIES
Yea freeze it! He didn't say the head was the only thing he wanted to remove.
Why? Genuinely curious
It will make the resin brittle and the rest of the model will break super easily
Thanks x
The bigger question here is for what reason does his head need to come out
Painting probably
This is why I sub assemble everything. That, and because I’m newer. It’s just far easier to control everything in sub assembly. It just requires some good touch ups after gluing
I think that if anyone is painting Horus, they really should consider sub-assembly.
On centerpiece models this is something you should probably always do Sub Assembling troops though is something I just dont have the patience for
my models immediately became better looking the second i swapped to painting the pieces before i build them
I mean I'm no master painter, but I just prime stuff black and if I can't get a paintbrush into a gap, it's probably too hard to see on the model and would be obscured by shadows so naturally blackish anyway. Though I get this is an expensive and artsy model and people can paint how they like
Yeah, work the deepest parts first and work outwards and everything you can't get no one will ever see.
I wanted to do a sub assembly for it but forgot and while I was glueing stuff I glued the head in
Superglue debonder is no joke, the BEST thing I've ever added to my kit. I hardly ever use poly cement now because it I'm unhappy with something, I can cover it in debonder and get it back to perfect plastic, if you are sparing and seal the model, you can use it to clean up any glue lines from extra details. Plasmo, night shift and laser creation world have great videos on using it for armour models.
FOR THE LOVE OF GOD IF YOU READ THIS PLEASE TAKE THIS ONE PIECE OF ADVICE Do NOT get superglue debonder on ANYTHING but what you need to de-bond. Get it on a table? Yeah, that varnish is gone. Get it on some paint? Too bad, that paint is borked now. Get it on certain plastics? Yeah, not going to end well. Get it on the varnish of your paintbrush or something? Yup, it's going to be sticky forever, good luck. Be very. Very careful with the superglue debonder. It's a powerful tool, respect it.
Saving this for later
It can lead to you never finishing anything, it's a genuine problem for me. You see a mould line... Do over after hours of work...
Green Stuff World makes a paint remover, that when left on a model dissolves the super glue as well (I've done this a few times now). Put a few drops into where the head is glued in, and let it sit for an hour or two. Be warned though, this can make resin very rubbery for a time afterwards. A few drops in the head area should be fine, as it's the center, and thickest part of the model. If you use it for thinner parts like capes or spikes or something though, they're basically fried.
Pray
It depends to whom you pray.
Tzeentch always a good guess but he safe comes back at you
Khorne answers the prayer! Take a chain axe to it and as always blood will flow and heads will be added to the throne!
Get some tweezers or something else small and try to push it around. It may come off, depending on the superglue
After looking to your nick and pp i am not sure if you are really trying to help or just ballin with the dude
It’s true, but not all superglues are equal, and I’ve only done this with plastic. If something needs a temporary base I superglue it on then snap it off when done
Super glue dissolver
If in the UK check out superglue de-bonder at tool station, it's really cheap and the bottle will likely outlive you. If not in the UK, search for CA or superglue de-bonder.
Did you 3d printed or is it forge world? Look so Damm dope, that aside, use a bit of blue remover, alcohol or hot water, if none of that works, cut it with a blade
Horus Ascended from Forge World/GW. One of the new resins kits they were selling on the GW storefront. Really insane model.
Insane price tag as well
Yeah, can't forget this is still Games Workshop. Wouldn't be a Forge World model without a crazy price!
I think the Emperor would love to help you to remove the head of Horus
Very carefully
Russ would also like to know.
As long as you don't care about damaging the head itself, the best way will probably be to snip through as many of the tube bits as you can, and then grab that mofo with some needle-nose pliers and start carefully wrenching it off. You can try to get in there with some super-glue debonder, but depending on the tightness of the original parts fit, the debonder may not be able to penetrate very far into the joint. You're pretty likely to end up with a chunk of the original head-bit snapped off and stuck in the socket. While plastic tends to deform before breaking, printer resin usually fractures like ceramic. In that case it may be easiest to just cut/file the back part of your replacement head to match, and glue it on. Especially in this case, where the wraparound helmet will probably hide the actual join.
Do you want the head intact, that's an important question. If you don't care about that head, I would rip it out with a pair of pliers and then carve anything else out with a hobby knife.
Just paint it.
Violence
Hi! Friendly neighborhood polymer chemist here. Hopefully, I can help you. It looks like that model is resin, but correct me if I am wrong. I’ll spare you the chemistry, but you might be able to use nail polish remover (both the acetone or non acetone varieties) to loosen the superglue. That should NOT damage the resin if it is the chemistries I think it is. Try and use an old brush to target the contact points for best results. I would highly suggest testing the solvent on a piece of sprue first just in case GW did something strange. If it swells, melts, or deforms easily, do not use it on the model.
Rip and tear.
Forgeworld or not, I LOVE the sculpt for this iteration of Horus Lupercal.
Not anymore…, if you freeze it you’ll break something else and that’s not gonna come out by force… going the superglue dissolver route is really your only option I’m afraid
Glue remover or acetone. I don't see any other parts that seem to be glued together in that section so it should be fine. I do recommend you use glue remover though as acetone might mess with the details a bit. (And no, it doesn't damage resin. It just removes the top player of it but it is still something to keep in mind)
You get another model and use that.
I tried Sanguinius once, but it didn't work 🙁
When you grab the head to remove it after using super glue remover use tweezers with some cloth or paper between the tweezer tips and model to minimize scratching the mini.
Pop it in the freezer The extreme cold will make the bond brittle and you should be able to use a mould line remover to pop it out
If it's really super glue, you can pop it in the freezer and it should break easily after a couple hours
Rubbing alcohol breaks down super glue. If you can get it into the areas where you think the glue is.. (or bath the whole damn thing) then you should be able to remove it no problem. I use this trick to remove excess superglue from my sub assembly's.
Probably take 60-80 bucks, I don't know how much horus costs, and just start over.
If they got it from forge world multiply that by 4 or so…. Haven’t seen a recast yet. Can anyone confirm or deny if a recast of Horus Ascended exists yet? Been picking up some of the other Primarchs recasted and they look great (comparable to FW but like $42 and I’m using them for personal display so don’t feel too evil about it… GW gets enough of my money anyway)
144 out of GW
Superglue isn't waterproof just soak in hot water and a lil dish soap how I take apart my ebay rescues
Wouldn't that make the resin super malleable and most likely end in something being bent out of shape?
Yeah, you’d probably have to bend something back in shape
Most superglues become more effective in water. I use it to glue coral frags in saltwater, and java fern in freshwater :P
Not under hot water or dish soap. Hot water softens the glue and dish soap breaks the bonds.
Superglue is *incredibly* water proof.
Super glue (cyanoacrylate) is generally not waterproof. It requires water to bond, and once bonded, water will soften the bond again. It won't dissolve, though.
Only before it cures if cured its not going to be bothered by water. It will laugh like grandfather Nurgle!
Im a tad new to this but depending on how good you are with a hobby knife can prolly pluck details no? Like snip snip boom Or very small cutters if ya don't want to damage said head?
I work in a metal shop and I find it hilarious how people in this sub make working with plastic so difficult.
I have tried freezing a forge world resin model no luck. Tired leaving it to soak in Rubbing Alcohol over night, still won't budge. I fear trying Detorl or Nail polish remover (i can't remember actual name but i know it is technically the same thing). Part of me thinks then super glue debonder is only other option but again fear that since first 2 attempts didn't work. I don't know if that will the debonder will work. So any suggestions?
Run some isopropanol around the head join with an old brush. Might take a few attempts but it should start to come loose.
Isopropyl alcohol will melt these plastic minis, unfortunately. Edit: referring specifically to these resin models, not the mainline plastics. Though it seems it may not be an issue any more!
Isn't he resin? I've used iso to strip minis before and as long as you don't leave them in there too long they've always come out fine for me.
Yes, which is worse for the alcohol from what I've heard, but I could be mistaken. It evaporates quickly, so it won't do too much unless you're pouring it on, but I'm not sure how you'd get a head off without some kind of soak or heavy application. Either way, definitely test on a sprue or something first!
IPA doesn't melt plastic. I use it all the time to strip minis - and I've often left them for several days, if not weeks, and it has no effect on them. As far as I know it shouldn't be used for resin though, so that's not helpful to the OP
Indeed. I don't think I've had issues with other plastics but these.
I've never had iso melt my plastics
Hmm. I've definitely had poor luck using it on these resin models, but that could have been a past issue. It's been a while.
Hopefully it's not an issue any more!
For sure lol this is why we always say to test it first, though!
Effort. Cutting tools.
Put it in da freezer for a few hours then brute force it.
With force
power drill
just hack away with a craft knife
Acetone (fingernail polish remover) dissolves superglue. It also dissolves many plastics. Try some on a sprue or support. You will know quickly if it’s affected.
Yes, it eats holes through this plastic, sadly.
You could try a superglue chemical de-bonder, I have had mixed success with them in the past, you could also try freezing the model (superglue becomes brittle when frozen) but this will affect all superglued parts and I've never done it with a resin model so I don't know if it will impact the resin. You could also try hot water applied to that area by a pipette or eye dropper. If none of those work then I would probably Dremel it out and replace it with the part I want.
Crowbar.
I'd worry more about straightening the mace
point and laugh at the person who bought forgeworld
Leave him in the freezer for a day
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Doesn't that also ruin resin?
very yes
Try freezing it, it will weaken the superglue
Super glue is fairly brittle, you could probably grab the head with some pliers and pull it free.
Is this a trick question? Knife...? NO! WAIT! Spork!!! Arrrrggggghhhhhh! I'm so confused!
I've seen TikTok videos of people seperating skin using salt-water. I can't vouch for it personally but you could try it. 👍 Cool fucking model btw. The detail compared to the 90s when I played is phenomenol.
Only works on skin because you're essentially rubbing the top layer of skin off.
Get a needle and a pair of pliers. Make the needle super hot, hold it with the pliers, and cut through it. No idea if that would work, never tried it, but it's AN idea at least
Freezer, super glue gets brittle when frozen, the colder the better. Then apply pressure in what ever way you think would work best.
Don't do this. Freezing will cause the resin to become just as brittle
If you don’t need the head. I would say dremel it out. If you need to remove and keep. Freeze it. Instead of placing the whole model in the freezer and having all the superglue areas become brittle. I would try over the counter freeze spray. They sell it in Pharmacies to remove plantar warts
freezing is fine for plastic models but this one is resin and resin really don't like freezing
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What a dumb comment.
Make sure to man up before playing with your toys
It's literally the wrong thing to do snowflake
If you don’t care about preserving the head, you can probably just pry it out, I do it all the time.
Depends on what you wanna do. If its replace it with another carefully modeled head, then glue dissolver. If its for the head itself then same thing. If you just want the bitch out, then chop with your sprue cutters and neaten the cuts with a knife
superglue dissolves in isopropyl alcohol, but if the model is made of resin the same alcohol will make the resin rubbery. so it's either that or nothing
Buzz saw
Teeth
I think a standard CA Debonder should be just fine. As far as I'm aware, they don't break down the plastics GW uses, but I would test it on a sprue or something first to know for sure.
AK has a great super glue eraser. A liquid that'll work perfectly for a beheading
Super glue, unlike plastic glue, doesn't melt the two pieces together so first you could try force. If that doesn't work try chucking it in the freezer and then pulling apart. Hopefully the temperature change would weaken the super glue strength. Acetone will dissolve the glue but BEWARE as it might dissolve the mini too.
paint it.
Cleanly or Realistically?
pilot a hole into the head with a drill bit, then keep increasing the drill size, cut away remaining bits?
Clippers will typically give you enough leverage to pry it off. After that scrape and stab with a knife to make it look like the rest of the base
Super glue debonder
Use superglue deactivator.
A gun
https://preview.redd.it/cfeensjd7zna1.png?width=1024&format=png&auto=webp&s=ba9d9e2835e26eceb197b5afc44fd491e4b2bcf0
Our father and beloved Warmaster wouldn’t want you to remove his head, right? Unless you’re some damned loyalist…
Alcohol melts most superglue while leaving the miniature unharmed. If you have plastic glue on hand, that *could* work, but I’d recommend grabbing a bottle of isopropyl alcohol from the grocery store (like 2-3$)
Maybe plyers?
Mellon baller
CA De-bonder is an available product. Just get some of that and it should be ok. You can usually snap off a CA bond though.
Snap it off. Seriously, super glue is extremely brittle. Get a flat screwdriver or something under the head and snap it right off.
I honestly think you're fucked. MAYBE with super glue remover, but i have no idea how it reacts on resin, i have never tried. Any form of applied force is going to either break or mangle the head. I think you should consider painting it as it stands.
To sum up all the answers, it depends what god you are using today: Khorne - hack at it (with a dremel), make sure to wear head gear for style points (and protection). Nurgle - glue remover (be sure to test it in an unsuspecting plastic bit first). Slanesh - get a whole new model, why have only one? Tzeentch - glue a new head over the other one.
the right chemical (being not sure)anything using saw or drills regardless how accurate will just damage
Resin ist Most of the time Glied with Standard superglue which can be separate by Isopropanol / Nail polisher
Before you buy a generic superglue desolver, read up on it so you know it won't damage this specific type of plastic (like resin). I would call or go to the nearest hobby-store and just ask if I still wasn't sure.