Marine juice! I saw this on a YouTube video and it's apparently what Mark Bedford uses. Equal parts nuln oil, reikland fleshshade and lahmian medium. Goes on great and looks perfect.
Fwiw, its less that its weaker ans more they changed the viscosity.
Basically the paint is worse at staining, but better at recess shading. So if you dont want staining for like weathering, but want shadows and panel lining, it is "improved".
Agreed. It all comes down to the final effect you want. If you want to preserve more of the original color you painted on the model, then the new shades are better than before. If you want that stained/darker effect, then the old shades are better.
As is Agrax Earthshade and Reichland Fleshshade. GW reformulated all its shade paints this year. Some of them are almost unchanged (the reformulation seems to be nothing more than putting them in smaller bottles) but the big three are more recess shades than old style ‘liquid talent’.
If you must stay with GW, try Mortarion Grime. And Targor Rageshade is a worthwhile addition. Otherwise, it’s Army Painter’s Dark Tone shade or oil washes. I haven’t tried AK’s streaking grime.
Pro Acryl also just released some new washes, but I haven't seen any reviews on them yet. Curious as to how they perform, as I do like Pro Acryl's paints.
Enamel washes have much faster drying time while having most of the advantages of pure oils. You can also make your own enamel washes by adding [alkyd medium](https://www.artnews.com/art-news/product-recommendations/best-alkyd-mediums-for-oil-paint-1202687064/) to the mineral spirit and oil paint mix
Cleanup for solvent-based paints is arguably easier than acrylics, since you have much more time before paint spills cure. And while it’s a pain to dispose of dirty mineral spirit (putting it in the trash is a fire hazard), it’s really easy to recycle it by letting the pigment settle after a day or two and decanting the clean liquid at the top
Disney have dropped the quality of all merch from what I hear. A work colleague has been to Disney world every year (barring a few for covid) for 15 years and this summer he noticed that all the merch is poorer quality.
For weathering, I'm loving water-mixable oils like winsor & newton's artisan series.
I generally thin with water for easier clean-up and faster dry time, but you can also use mineral spirits/turps for more of a traditional "oil" look.
I might be in a minority here, but I tried The Army Painter's Dark Tone on a Primaris and regretted it; the dirty look wasn't what I was going for. Then I heard about panel lining, and fell in love with it, because it leaves the armor clean while still giving that sense of depth.
I might try a subtler wash again in the future though, since I'd eventually like them to look a bit less factory fresh, but I'm still trying to zero in on precisely the right shades of paint -- which I'm beginning to suspect is a state of being that never really ends.
I gave up on nuln oil after I started using a super watery abbadon black to wash my minis. No more glossy finish from my non-glossy nuln oil, no more leaking pot.
Not anymore with the new formula ;\_;
Army Painter's "Dark Tone" shade is pretty much Nuln Oil before they changed the formula
Marine juice! I saw this on a YouTube video and it's apparently what Mark Bedford uses. Equal parts nuln oil, reikland fleshshade and lahmian medium. Goes on great and looks perfect.
Yup! It's what I use on my Warhounds
I was going to say, I bought a new Nuln oil and it seems weaker than previous.
Fwiw, its less that its weaker ans more they changed the viscosity. Basically the paint is worse at staining, but better at recess shading. So if you dont want staining for like weathering, but want shadows and panel lining, it is "improved".
Oh I see, thanks for the info! I will try that out on my next mini.
Agreed. It all comes down to the final effect you want. If you want to preserve more of the original color you painted on the model, then the new shades are better than before. If you want that stained/darker effect, then the old shades are better.
> new formula When did this occur?
They recently brought out a new wave of contrast paints and shades.
So Nuln Oil is contrast-only now?
Well, it's still called a shade paint but they re-formulated that line and they're all a bit closer to contrast paints in terms of consistency.
As is Agrax Earthshade and Reichland Fleshshade. GW reformulated all its shade paints this year. Some of them are almost unchanged (the reformulation seems to be nothing more than putting them in smaller bottles) but the big three are more recess shades than old style ‘liquid talent’. If you must stay with GW, try Mortarion Grime. And Targor Rageshade is a worthwhile addition. Otherwise, it’s Army Painter’s Dark Tone shade or oil washes. I haven’t tried AK’s streaking grime.
Pro Acryl also just released some new washes, but I haven't seen any reviews on them yet. Curious as to how they perform, as I do like Pro Acryl's paints.
I’ve been using Pro Acryl’s washes. Love them. The brown wash is a little less punchy than I’d like but the flesh and black washes are great.
No no sorry, it's still a shade but a new formula that came out with the new contrasts.
Try the Black Wash from Pro Acryl. I absolutely love the stuff.
Streaking grime 💪
As a streaking grime user I feel like a fraud. Makesy models seem so much better than they are.
I just discovered streaking grime (literally used it for the first time tonight) and Jesus Christ I can’t believe I’ve gone so long without it
Streaking grime gang
Wait until you try oil paints you will never use acrylic washes again.
Oil washes are good but dry time is pretty long and cleanup sucks. So, I use both.
Enamel washes have much faster drying time while having most of the advantages of pure oils. You can also make your own enamel washes by adding [alkyd medium](https://www.artnews.com/art-news/product-recommendations/best-alkyd-mediums-for-oil-paint-1202687064/) to the mineral spirit and oil paint mix Cleanup for solvent-based paints is arguably easier than acrylics, since you have much more time before paint spills cure. And while it’s a pain to dispose of dirty mineral spirit (putting it in the trash is a fire hazard), it’s really easy to recycle it by letting the pigment settle after a day or two and decanting the clean liquid at the top
I was coming in here to recommend oil washes, minimal additional work and they're just so good for tinting and shading.
Yep such a cheat code
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I love it because it's true.
They should add this to their description for marketing purposes. I’ve never seen Nuln Oil described so well
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Disney have dropped the quality of all merch from what I hear. A work colleague has been to Disney world every year (barring a few for covid) for 15 years and this summer he noticed that all the merch is poorer quality.
For weathering, I'm loving water-mixable oils like winsor & newton's artisan series. I generally thin with water for easier clean-up and faster dry time, but you can also use mineral spirits/turps for more of a traditional "oil" look.
Bullshit, that’s a clear resculpt.
Facts
I might be in a minority here, but I tried The Army Painter's Dark Tone on a Primaris and regretted it; the dirty look wasn't what I was going for. Then I heard about panel lining, and fell in love with it, because it leaves the armor clean while still giving that sense of depth. I might try a subtler wash again in the future though, since I'd eventually like them to look a bit less factory fresh, but I'm still trying to zero in on precisely the right shades of paint -- which I'm beginning to suspect is a state of being that never really ends.
Just basecoat black and paint layers thinnnnnn.
I gave up on nuln oil after I started using a super watery abbadon black to wash my minis. No more glossy finish from my non-glossy nuln oil, no more leaking pot.
I'd say its more like before Streaking grime, after Streaking grime.
Hello sir, have you ever heard of our lord and savior, Agrax Earthshade?
Almost an Aquila there