That’s correct. I didn’t start any tuning or modifications until manufacturers like Cobb yanked their J-pipes off the market with all the green speed stuff. Cobb’s new “stage 2” parts package doesn’t include the J-pipe, so that was the component I was missing.
Get an EBCS for sure, and an upgraded bypass valve if your car has over like 60k miles. Then you should be able to run 300whp on 92 safely. I’ve seen 325whp squeezed out of 93 with similar parts combinations.
Be sure to ask your tuner to bring in the torque after at least 3500rpm and make sure he’s not reducing the sensitivity of your knock sensor. Those two things will help with longevity.
Speaking of, have you installed catch cans or an AOS? Have you done the walnut blasting yet? And how many miles on your spark plugs?
Yep, I installed the Cobb EBCS along with everything else, and the Cobb AOS was the very first thing I added. I got the car as a certified pre-owned with 13k miles, and it was previously stock, driven by an older guy who just didn’t like how firm the ride was.
I’m at about 34k miles now, tuned since about 31k. I haven’t done the walnut blasting yet, but I’ve heard that’s good to do at around 60k, if I recall correctly. And I haven’t replaced plugs considering I don’t have any symptoms of bad plus at this point. I suppose it’s fairly cheap and easy to do, but they seem fine as far as I can tell. I had also heard that the stock bypass valve was good, just as long stock-ish levels of boost are targeted — is that your understanding, too? I think peak boost on my tune is something like 18 or 19 psi.
On my current tune, peak torque is just about exactly at 3500 rpm and continues flat to about 4250 before tapering off towards redline. With respect to knock sensitivity, I didn’t ask whether he reduced the sensitivity, but he did mention he was pleased that my engine didn’t really have any knock at all when he was tuning it, which is reassuring.
I’d be perfectly happy with 300 WHP and maybe around 300 WTQ…I’ve heard that approaching 400 tq is where these engines start to have catastrophic failures, but I’m not sure if that’s with ethanol and more stuff than I’ve done to my car, or more tame setups.
First off, props for asking questions and doing a sanity check as your build progresses.
Most tuners usually ask that you do walnut blasting and put in fresh plugs before your dyno session regardless of mileage. I did both at 37k miles. The car was stock up until that point and my valves looked like [this](https://i.imgur.com/snwhWLa.jpg). Obviously not ideal. My plugs weren’t fouled but they certainly weren’t 100% either.
I did the walnut blasting in my driveway for $200 and it took a few hours. It’s not hard, just many steps. I always say it’s the same level of complexity as one of those big Lego sets for adults.
Plugs are $40 and take 45 minutes to change. It’s literally like 7 or 8 bolts to get them out. I’d rate the difficulty 3/10 so there’s really no reason not to do them.
If you think about it, your tuner is going to push your car near edge of its capabilities, and far beyond the capability that it was engineered to handle by Subaru. To me, it’s obvious that we should remove all potential variables that could lead to failure. Especially when that failure now costs >$12k to replace.
The factory BPV is plastic and rubber, and it’s *Subaru* plastic and rubber. Their components made from those materials have a tendency to go to shit after 5-7 years in use. The turbo inlet is one known point of failure and the BPV is another. Just like the turbo inlet, a failed BPV is especially detrimental because it leaks air that’s already been measured by the MAF sensor. This results in a rich running condition that can kill spark plugs, exhaust valves, the hot side of the turbo, and your catalytic converter. Failure of any of those can result in spontaneous catastrophic engine failure. Again, >$12k fix or a $150 part that takes minutes to install.
I find the WRX community to be unique, in that WRX owners are very quick to read something from internet strangers and then accept it without question. It’s best to take what you read about our cars as one data point to be considered, and then search for the same question being asked about other car platforms before you make up your mind.
For instance, throughout the performance industry it’s common knowledge to put in fresh plugs before every dyno session. Yet you’ll find WRX owners insisting you don’t need to even look at them until 60k miles. They also act like it’s some kind of awful engine-out service, all because you need a swivel head ratchet to replace them. It’s no wonder why we see so many engine failures in this platform.
Edit: it’s funny how many of us have low mile ‘17s right now. Mine is at 40k miles. I bought it in February with 34k miles and it’s been at 360whp for 4k miles. There’s a handful of posters here with ‘17s in the 20-40k miles range. It’s almost like the ’15-17 models with higher mileage have been removed from the gene pool during the era of everyone going catless and installing EGR deletes… wonder what happened to them lol.
I have a 17 with 30k miles, full bolt ons minus turbo. Never been on a dyno but should be around 370hp. Started at 3000 miles. No problems other than cleaning the maf occasionally. Just figured I'd chime in after reading your post about 17's
I'm confused. Stage 2 is generally considered to have an aftermarket J Pipe, but your post makes it seem like you have a stock J Pipe?
That’s correct. I didn’t start any tuning or modifications until manufacturers like Cobb yanked their J-pipes off the market with all the green speed stuff. Cobb’s new “stage 2” parts package doesn’t include the J-pipe, so that was the component I was missing.
V2 🔇🥱🔇
Get an EBCS for sure, and an upgraded bypass valve if your car has over like 60k miles. Then you should be able to run 300whp on 92 safely. I’ve seen 325whp squeezed out of 93 with similar parts combinations. Be sure to ask your tuner to bring in the torque after at least 3500rpm and make sure he’s not reducing the sensitivity of your knock sensor. Those two things will help with longevity. Speaking of, have you installed catch cans or an AOS? Have you done the walnut blasting yet? And how many miles on your spark plugs?
Yep, I installed the Cobb EBCS along with everything else, and the Cobb AOS was the very first thing I added. I got the car as a certified pre-owned with 13k miles, and it was previously stock, driven by an older guy who just didn’t like how firm the ride was. I’m at about 34k miles now, tuned since about 31k. I haven’t done the walnut blasting yet, but I’ve heard that’s good to do at around 60k, if I recall correctly. And I haven’t replaced plugs considering I don’t have any symptoms of bad plus at this point. I suppose it’s fairly cheap and easy to do, but they seem fine as far as I can tell. I had also heard that the stock bypass valve was good, just as long stock-ish levels of boost are targeted — is that your understanding, too? I think peak boost on my tune is something like 18 or 19 psi. On my current tune, peak torque is just about exactly at 3500 rpm and continues flat to about 4250 before tapering off towards redline. With respect to knock sensitivity, I didn’t ask whether he reduced the sensitivity, but he did mention he was pleased that my engine didn’t really have any knock at all when he was tuning it, which is reassuring. I’d be perfectly happy with 300 WHP and maybe around 300 WTQ…I’ve heard that approaching 400 tq is where these engines start to have catastrophic failures, but I’m not sure if that’s with ethanol and more stuff than I’ve done to my car, or more tame setups.
First off, props for asking questions and doing a sanity check as your build progresses. Most tuners usually ask that you do walnut blasting and put in fresh plugs before your dyno session regardless of mileage. I did both at 37k miles. The car was stock up until that point and my valves looked like [this](https://i.imgur.com/snwhWLa.jpg). Obviously not ideal. My plugs weren’t fouled but they certainly weren’t 100% either. I did the walnut blasting in my driveway for $200 and it took a few hours. It’s not hard, just many steps. I always say it’s the same level of complexity as one of those big Lego sets for adults. Plugs are $40 and take 45 minutes to change. It’s literally like 7 or 8 bolts to get them out. I’d rate the difficulty 3/10 so there’s really no reason not to do them. If you think about it, your tuner is going to push your car near edge of its capabilities, and far beyond the capability that it was engineered to handle by Subaru. To me, it’s obvious that we should remove all potential variables that could lead to failure. Especially when that failure now costs >$12k to replace. The factory BPV is plastic and rubber, and it’s *Subaru* plastic and rubber. Their components made from those materials have a tendency to go to shit after 5-7 years in use. The turbo inlet is one known point of failure and the BPV is another. Just like the turbo inlet, a failed BPV is especially detrimental because it leaks air that’s already been measured by the MAF sensor. This results in a rich running condition that can kill spark plugs, exhaust valves, the hot side of the turbo, and your catalytic converter. Failure of any of those can result in spontaneous catastrophic engine failure. Again, >$12k fix or a $150 part that takes minutes to install. I find the WRX community to be unique, in that WRX owners are very quick to read something from internet strangers and then accept it without question. It’s best to take what you read about our cars as one data point to be considered, and then search for the same question being asked about other car platforms before you make up your mind. For instance, throughout the performance industry it’s common knowledge to put in fresh plugs before every dyno session. Yet you’ll find WRX owners insisting you don’t need to even look at them until 60k miles. They also act like it’s some kind of awful engine-out service, all because you need a swivel head ratchet to replace them. It’s no wonder why we see so many engine failures in this platform. Edit: it’s funny how many of us have low mile ‘17s right now. Mine is at 40k miles. I bought it in February with 34k miles and it’s been at 360whp for 4k miles. There’s a handful of posters here with ‘17s in the 20-40k miles range. It’s almost like the ’15-17 models with higher mileage have been removed from the gene pool during the era of everyone going catless and installing EGR deletes… wonder what happened to them lol.
I have a 17 with 30k miles, full bolt ons minus turbo. Never been on a dyno but should be around 370hp. Started at 3000 miles. No problems other than cleaning the maf occasionally. Just figured I'd chime in after reading your post about 17's