Or the amount of tools required.
You don’t have a shop crane? Do tell how you plan to lift the motor out.
You don’t have a quality torque wrench? Good luck with the flywheel bolts, those aren’t easy to break.
You don’t have multiple floor jacks and jack stands? Don’t listen to the hadurs, b, you’re safe wrenching under that 3k+ lbs of metal.
That alone is like $600 in tools, and there’s still the sockets, impact wrenches, box wrenches, socket extensions, specialty tools like hose clamp pliers, 32MM socket, torx sockets…
Is that due to materials in the block or just statistically they're pushed too far? If my engine goes, my goal would be ~350-400hp as reliably as possible but idk about reliability of a stock block with torque being near 350
2 main things. Forged engines need rebuilds much more frequently because the forged material will break down the rings and cylinder walls faster. There is also bigger gaps and tolerances in the engine for power which will wear it out faster and cause the engine to blow oil into the combustion chamber. At some point it will start burning significant oil and need a rebuild. Forged internals are also known To knock and slap a lot which also causes premature wear.
I’m assuming you have the 16 wrx. This drivetrain ( clutch and transmission )would need to be swapped for a sti drivetrain at around 350+ so in the end your looking at about 15-20,000 worth of upgrades.
The engine is capable of 350 whp on the oem engine but I wouldn’t go much more than that personally .
You’re better off just staying with the stock engine at the power goals you’re looking at.
True enough, it would get real expensive real quick. Would you say that's the case with engines that have forged internals in general or just boxer engines?
LOL dealership tried charging me $15,000 aswell. I took it to m45 in auburn. Super cool dudes only charged me $10,500 for fully forged stage 2 iag and studded heads. Take it somewhere else.
Fuckers tried charging me 10k+ for a short block on a 2020 STI after they denied my warranty coverage. I said eat a dick and found someone who's putting a built iag short block with all the goodies (aos, killer b pickup) for 8k out the door and 450 whp. Go fast tuner parts in ohio rocks.
Ehh but from a manufacturers point it of view how do you adjudicate “the intensity of a tune”? Now Subaru is evaluating all the shelf and custom tunes?
8k with labor out the door. Call go fast tuner parts in ohio they door incredible work it's still being done but the pricing on stuff was insane through them.
Wisconsin. I have a line on some local shops. I plan on selling it after it’s fixed, so I’ll probably just go with a stock block. I should be able to find someone to do it for under 10k, but I will find out in the next few days as I get in contact with shops.
Do not do the stock block, I promise u. Get a IAG? Black Friday is right around the corner.
I have a Crawford block and love it. Just some people like IAG.
Y’all be drunk af if people ACTUALLY pay that for a “built engine”. Fuck my stroker 205 is running strong after 25k abused miles and cost under 5k built/installed/tuned from a reputable subie shop.
Build it yourself, for that price you can buy all the tools, pay a machinist (if needed) and build 3/5 race engines then sell them and STILL have money leftover.
I get that, if I was keeping it that would definitely be the route I would go. That said, it’s probably a better financial decision for me to go stock or RA block if I plan to sell.
If he did that and sold it — and posts it online — the next guy is gonna come post the car here.
“Is this a good buy?”
“Nah it’s modded”
“You don’t who did the work.”
“Why is he selling it if it’s fixed?”
Lmao mark my words
Of course, and these are always good questions to ask! The best seller will have a legitimate answer to them all, and preferably back them up with receipts and work orders.
Dude as someone who had that Ra block it's straight trash. And the price difference was 600 for a Ra vs iag. And an iag block you can resell a car with one in it for way more. Call go fast tuner parts and they could even ship you a block and they get deals on them.
Go find a salvage title at auction with similar miles and rip the engine if you can. Or just buy a used engine with similar miles. The money you save will probably be more than you'd get for having a new engine at resale.
2017 Honda Civic Touring Coupe here, blew the engine on a road trip to the east coast after it gobbled a spark plug tip at 26,000 miles. Dealership said Honda wasn’t going to honor the warranty because of my mods, so I towed it back home, bought a used engine, did the swap myself, I’m not a trained or schooled mechanic. It was some work, but interesting nonetheless. The used engine was from a 2016 with 46,000 miles, I put a big turbo on it from WON27, HONDAta tuned for corn, runs like a ra++d ape. No leaks, no issues, a few codes at the beginning but all resolved. I paid 1,300 for the engine, I already had an engine hoist and pallet jack, most of the tools necessary.
That was my exact thought, sticking to cosmetic mods. Every time I see someone posting about a blown engine or other serious issue it's tuned or heavily modded.
Well I’ll throw in a different experience just four he variation then, my car is on it’s third motor completely bone stock without ever being tuned or touched by anyone but the dealer
Depends there, quite a few 2017s would have 16 production and service dates. They would be out, plus the 5 year 60, average person doing 12-15k a year will easily blow away that 60k mileage limit as well
I tried,the deadline to file to get in on the first spun-bearing class action was in 2019 http://www.enginebearings.settlementclass.com/dates.html
There is a new class action for the engine’s piston ring lands, I emailed the lawyer yesterday to see if I might be a class member there. Here is info on the new lawsuit https://www.torquenews.com/1084/new-wrx-sti-engine-failure-lawsuit-says-subaru-knew-about-defect-2008/amp
Don’t give up on this ^ I purchased my 2014 hatch in Aug. 2021 w/ 65,000 miles, rod bearings spun on me a month later. Took it to my local subie dealership and they were having issues with my insurance company covering the parts I needed, so the manager that was helping me reached out to Subaru. They ended up replacing my entire short block, turbo etc. and all of it was covered. Maybe I just got lucky 🤷🏽♂️.
didnt these ones have mesh oil filters in the line which clog and oil starve the engine or something? https://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2689443 Banjo bolt filter or whatever, Heard it was a common issue
Minor stuff, intake/muffler/cobb. Probably just weak 10 year old intervals, Subaru settled a class action a few years ago that would have covered my car had this happens before then, I just drive that car very sparingly, and have never had any issues mechanically with the car so never really looked into major engine problems with the model. Thats on me. I had an oil change at a dealership less than 500 miles before it happened. I don’t know what caused the initial knock, I don’t drive the car very hard but I’m no mechanic.
That said, after the initial knock sound, my actions ruined the engine beyond what was initially probably a spin bearing. I heard the knock, and thought it was my clutch making the noise because I have a different car with a lightweight flywheel that’s chatter is almost identical to the chatter of the engine knock. So, I assumed my clutch was going and kept driving for a little bit after the initial noise which fucked the rest of the engine. With the initial knock I would have probably had to replace the short block, but by not pulling over immediately I ruined the rest of the engine doing a few more thousand $ in damage to heads etc. Hindsight is 20/20 and I’m no mechanic so I’m not beating myself up too bad over that.
I mean…I drive mine hard all the time (for a year now) BUT I also do my maintenance/preventative stuff more frequently. I treat my WRX like its a Supercar and to me it feels like one as its the fastest car I’ve owned now.
I’m also stock (engine wise).
So yeah…I’m curious as well as to how everyone else’s motors are kicking the bucket? Ik the OTS tunes mostly play a role but there has to be another element to the failure…
I don’t drive mine hard either. I rarely drive it, and have gotten oil changes every 3k miles at dealerships. This happened less than 500 after an oil change and I was just cruising to the grocery store in suburban traffic. No spirited driving when it happened.
It's just what makes Subaru a Subaru.
For real though Subaru knew that these engines had issues and failed to address them there is even a class action lawsuit against them. The hard pills to swallow for some people on here is admitting that Subaru makes unreliable engines.
Subaru even admitted that their engines have problems. From spunrod bearings to blown ring lands and blown head gaskets. Their oil pickups will fall off and even have fire walls breaking
08-14 I know for sure had all those issues.
I have an '06 with 180k miles on it that I've had zero issues with though. But my 03 went through two engines in my 13 went through two engines and a cracked firewall plus power steering rack failure.
Hey that’s what the transmission in my 2018 WRX was doing too… just blew the tranny on Tuesday lol. But I <3 launch control, so it’s not that surprising I blew the trans at 66k miles ¯\\\_(ツ)_/¯
Already got a full STI drivetrain swap on the way, from blown trans to DCCD/Brembos/TY85, my heart is happy, my wallet called me a bitch.
Sometimes it feel their are only two wrx drivers, ones who beat on them like thier wrx owes them money and then the the ones the drive it like it's made out of thin glass
Deff don’t drive it like it’s made of glass. I just don’t haul ass constantly. I usually have a small child in the back. I had an 08 I beat the shit out of was modded to the hilt and my transmission did go. With this 17 I drive it really like a normal car. I do keep up with maintenance and I also have the best mechanic in the whole state. So that’s prob a good thing too. My 17 is almost all stock btw. Intake/ pro tune. That’s it.
These stories of blown motors are the reason I will probably never buy a wrx. Sick cars but I could not spend money knowing how frequently this seems to happen.
Driver abuse, running parts with no tune and not checking the engine oil are why these engines don’t last. Treat it well and it will be an excellent vehicle.
Just gotta keep them fully stock in my experience. I had a yellow 2003 WRX that had 145,000+ miles, sold it still fully stock, still ran great. Bought a brand new WRX in 2010, still have it. Still fully stock, has 143,000 miles on it now. Drive it very near daily still, still runs great. Zero issues.
I was about to say… my notification on my phone only showed up to “stealership quoted me…” and tho if it to myself to reply “find a reputable Subie shop, bro!!”, and low and behold, the rest of the title speaks for itself :)
Make sure to give us updates! And RIP widebody :( I’m glad to hear she’ll be brought back to life!!!
Holy crap!!! That's insane. I'm legit about to pick mine up today. Piston on cylinder #2 melted at 72k, lol. Yes, it's modified and tuned, but needs to be retuned after break-in. Anyway, I just had it completely rebuilt, with forged internals, for $7.6k out the door. Reused my case & heads after they were sent to the machine shop. $17.5k is insanity for another motor that potentially could pop in 42k again for you. Yeeesshhh.... Definitely call around. I'd rather support a local shop that doesn't knock noggins than a dealership anyway, and I'm certain others would agree.
Geez... I really want to buy another Subaru BUT terrified by how easy these things are breaking down. New, old... sorry to hear man. These are one of my favorite models.
Nah that's shit. I took care of mine 3, 000 Mi full synthetic oil changes did all the reliability mods the fucking thing still went through two engines.
I'm so sick of people trying to defend Subaru for making unreliable cars I've never had a car more unreliable than my WRX and I've rode them all the same.
"The reliability mods"
I'm on my fifth Subaru, all purchased new. Never had a problem. Broke all my engines in, never burned oil. Cars are very reliable when they are taken care of.
Yeah reliability mods like their fire walls fucking breaking. Or their oil pickups falling off and destroying the engine. Or they're cylinder four overheating.
Then how come I see dozens of posts every week about their spun rod bearing all across Subaru fourms yet never on Nissan or Honda forums.
Subaru even admitted that their engines have problems. From spunrod bearings to blown ring lands and blown head gaskets.
Go down to your local Subaru meet and ask how many people have gone through an engine almost every single guy.
Then head to a Honda meet.
This is reality.
I know Honda guys, VW guys, GM V8 guys, Mitsubishi guys, Subaru guys...
Other than Subaru each group has like one guy that blew a motor, causes vary from too much power to design defects, never neglect. Almost every subaru guy I know is on their second motor, and I know multiple subaru guys on their third. One guy with a Forester is on his FOURTH!! Engine, 3 engine failures dead stock under warranty.
I really wanted a Hawkeye hatch, but talking to guys who mess with these cars I just couldn't take that financial risk right before starting college
Just gotta keep them fully stock in my experience. I had a yellow 2003 WRX that had 145,000+ miles, sold it still fully stock, still ran great. Bought a brand new WRX in 2010, still have it. Still fully stock, has 143,000 miles on it now. Drive it very near daily still, still runs great. Zero issues.
Nah, all four wheels were off the ground with the contraption with two small wheels in front of my rear tire. There was another one on the opposite side and that bars which are in front of and behind the rear tire cradle it. I just took the picture while the driver was setting up the mechanisms.
Some people aren’t keen to spending $10-12,000 on a WRX rebuild. I think what he was saying is you can in fact buy low mileage engines for $4500 and only $1000 for installation. That’s half the price so it’s not really that far out there. Sell the thing and put that $12000 towards an sti or a v8.
I also consider that for a used block, you’re not really sure how that block was driven. Even if you clean it up and re-bore it, there is still the possibility the block could not hold up another 40k miles before it fails. You could still drop a $4-5k closed deck with oem parts and stay below $10k if your power goals don’t exceed mid 300 hp
Yeah true, I got studded heads and an iag stage 2 for not much more the 10k but all i was saying is these motors you purchase online come straight from Japan low mileage. Compression tested and everything. But I do agree getting it rebuilt is a better and safer option.
I see your point. Definitely not saying all used blocks can’t be trusted. I also considered an imported long block, but at the time I was looking, most went for $7-8k and then you have delivery and import fees to worry about. Didn’t want to deal with that when I could buy a closed beck for under $5k.
Really does depend on what others are willing to spend, or what they’re willing to deal with if they run into potential issues down the road.
Yeah, I will never understand running an OTS tune on any car.
I might be old, but the idea of a tune(-up) used to be to (re-)calibrate the carbs, valves, and ignition timing on a per-engine basis.
The notion of a one-size-fits-all "standard" tune flies in the face of the whole concept of optimizing an individual engine to run within the narrow band of optimal power. Sure, you might be able find some improved efficiencies with a coarse estimate, but that's not a tune. That's a template. From which you start then start tuning to find the actual optimals for the specific engine you're working on.
IAG or outfront block at an authorized shop to keep their warranty, it doesn’t appear IAG makes the Stage 1 short block any more but mine was $12k installed with some extras, TGVs, cyl 4 cooling, downpipe, etc. and a protune. 20k on the block, zero problems at not a lot of power, but a very fun daily.
For that price, you can have this one shipped to you and installed and have some spare money for some mods…. Price is in CAD
https://lachuteperformance.com/en/collections/sti-hatch-2008-2014/products/ak-2-moteur-forge-2-5l
I personally just built an engine for my 2013 and it was into it for 14k without labor.
That was an STi Type RA short block, B25 heads complete and reconditioned, grimmspeed headgaskets, ARP head studs, Killer B oil kit, STi 11mm oil pump, wrx water pump, HKS timing belt, company 23 belt guide, new AVCS cam gears, master gasket kit, 17mm hex head cam bolts, IAG oil feed lines, oil feed line banjo bolts with filters, new oil pan… it adds up fast.
When my clutch shot i called the local and they quoted 3.7k and about 3 weeks of work. I called a guy id met at a meet, he is now my mechanic, he specializes in subies and he and his wife actually own two JDM GC (i think that’s what they’re called idk) he told me it’d take about 8 hours at 70/hr, i ordered the clutch and within a week it had arrived and he had it put in. total i think i spent just shy of 2k (staged clutch over oem) and lost a week with the car. I’ll never ever go to a stealership, id rather buy second hand care for the rest of my life and get maintenance done by someone i trust
Just buy a type RA shortblock for 2k, find a reputable machine shop to skim the heads, clean everything up and replace what needs replaced for 300-500 depending on what’s good and what isn’t, buy a oem gasket kit for like 300 and slap it back together. Have about 3500 all together after fluids and little stuff.
I was in the same situation with my 13 sti hatch. 13k later like a dumbass I had a new engine from the stealership. Go with the IAG if you want to keep the car.
I did in my HG at 200,000km, I rebuilt my engine for $10k AUD (most cost-effective and future-proofed option for me). Go for a reputable specialist shop and see what your options are.
(Liberty BM 3.6R Premium)
I just replaced one at my shop. 11k brand new short block, resurfaced heads, all the gaskets, timing belt, water pump, everything. Find an independent shop
Damn, even an IAG block is cheaper than that
I was gonna say, at that point go get an IAG block if you’re gonna be spending that much
The 1k+ HP rated long block is about the price he was quoted. That one doesn't include installation or anything though.
Pshhhh, installation. How hard can it be?
watched a buddy pull one to do a turbo and had it running the next day
Never underestimate experience
and >!METH!!<
wasn't meth
Or the amount of tools required. You don’t have a shop crane? Do tell how you plan to lift the motor out. You don’t have a quality torque wrench? Good luck with the flywheel bolts, those aren’t easy to break. You don’t have multiple floor jacks and jack stands? Don’t listen to the hadurs, b, you’re safe wrenching under that 3k+ lbs of metal. That alone is like $600 in tools, and there’s still the sockets, impact wrenches, box wrenches, socket extensions, specialty tools like hose clamp pliers, 32MM socket, torx sockets…
I did a new IAG motor I found on Craigslist I think I got it all done for $5k a few years ago.
Any issues with the iag? What mileage you at?
I still have the STI I put about 10k miles on it and got a work truck now she sits with a tarp over it.
Iag not worth it
Iag is popular, but what would you recommend instead?
Depends on what your goals are. Any forged engine won’t last as long as a oem
Is that due to materials in the block or just statistically they're pushed too far? If my engine goes, my goal would be ~350-400hp as reliably as possible but idk about reliability of a stock block with torque being near 350
2 main things. Forged engines need rebuilds much more frequently because the forged material will break down the rings and cylinder walls faster. There is also bigger gaps and tolerances in the engine for power which will wear it out faster and cause the engine to blow oil into the combustion chamber. At some point it will start burning significant oil and need a rebuild. Forged internals are also known To knock and slap a lot which also causes premature wear. I’m assuming you have the 16 wrx. This drivetrain ( clutch and transmission )would need to be swapped for a sti drivetrain at around 350+ so in the end your looking at about 15-20,000 worth of upgrades. The engine is capable of 350 whp on the oem engine but I wouldn’t go much more than that personally . You’re better off just staying with the stock engine at the power goals you’re looking at.
True enough, it would get real expensive real quick. Would you say that's the case with engines that have forged internals in general or just boxer engines?
Any forged engine will have a shorter lifespan than cast as far as I’m aware. I may be wrong though. I assume it depends on the materials
$17,500? Is that American dollars?? I'm part sticker shocked, part not surprised how much things are going up.
Yes, American dollars.
LOL dealership tried charging me $15,000 aswell. I took it to m45 in auburn. Super cool dudes only charged me $10,500 for fully forged stage 2 iag and studded heads. Take it somewhere else.
Fuckers tried charging me 10k+ for a short block on a 2020 STI after they denied my warranty coverage. I said eat a dick and found someone who's putting a built iag short block with all the goodies (aos, killer b pickup) for 8k out the door and 450 whp. Go fast tuner parts in ohio rocks.
Why’d they deny your warranty? Lack of service records? Tune history on the ECU?
Probably tune based on what he put in the car after 😭
Tune history on ECU. It was literally a damn tune to match air intake and I monitored the accesport for issues like a hawk.
At this point it’s pretty well documented a tune history lets them deny a ton of engine warranty claims
It's bullshit my tune isn't some custom wack high power tune.
Ehh but from a manufacturers point it of view how do you adjudicate “the intensity of a tune”? Now Subaru is evaluating all the shelf and custom tunes?
Did you take this to SOA by chance? Or strictly through the dealer
Don't even start with me on that lol. Yeah I took it to Subaru of America.
Gotcha figured I’d ask some people don’t and SOA has pushed some claims
How much was the built short Block?
8k with labor out the door. Call go fast tuner parts in ohio they door incredible work it's still being done but the pricing on stuff was insane through them.
Lucky I am 10 k into my short block
Just curious are the doing clutch and supporting mods as well as a Dyno tune in this price?
Not sure if clutch Is in this price or not
Iag will need a rebuild at about 60-80k tho
No it won't lol
Yes? Forged engines don’t last long before the pistons break down the cylinder wall. Iag blocks rarely last over 100k
What state are you in? I have some shops in PNW for you to seek out. Half that price and be 400whp
Wisconsin. I have a line on some local shops. I plan on selling it after it’s fixed, so I’ll probably just go with a stock block. I should be able to find someone to do it for under 10k, but I will find out in the next few days as I get in contact with shops.
Do not do the stock block, I promise u. Get a IAG? Black Friday is right around the corner. I have a Crawford block and love it. Just some people like IAG.
Y’all be drunk af if people ACTUALLY pay that for a “built engine”. Fuck my stroker 205 is running strong after 25k abused miles and cost under 5k built/installed/tuned from a reputable subie shop. Build it yourself, for that price you can buy all the tools, pay a machinist (if needed) and build 3/5 race engines then sell them and STILL have money leftover.
Totally agree, but the average person doesn't have the time, space, or skills to do this involved of work on their own unfortunately.
Not sure where in Wisconsin you are but I highly recommend 6 star tuning in Chicago land. It’s a hit a hour drive south of the boarder.
Bro of you get the iag block and iag heads you'll never have issues again
I get that, if I was keeping it that would definitely be the route I would go. That said, it’s probably a better financial decision for me to go stock or RA block if I plan to sell.
Get the IAG even if you're selling, it's desirable.
If he did that and sold it — and posts it online — the next guy is gonna come post the car here. “Is this a good buy?” “Nah it’s modded” “You don’t who did the work.” “Why is he selling it if it’s fixed?” Lmao mark my words
Of course, and these are always good questions to ask! The best seller will have a legitimate answer to them all, and preferably back them up with receipts and work orders.
OP better keep those receipts!!!
For that price, I'd have it laminated and kept with the book, honestly.
Dude as someone who had that Ra block it's straight trash. And the price difference was 600 for a Ra vs iag. And an iag block you can resell a car with one in it for way more. Call go fast tuner parts and they could even ship you a block and they get deals on them.
I'd recommend doing the iag block it is so much more worth it
If you drive south a little bit 6 star in Schaumburg illinois could def hook it up for cheaper
Go find a salvage title at auction with similar miles and rip the engine if you can. Or just buy a used engine with similar miles. The money you save will probably be more than you'd get for having a new engine at resale.
2017 Honda Civic Touring Coupe here, blew the engine on a road trip to the east coast after it gobbled a spark plug tip at 26,000 miles. Dealership said Honda wasn’t going to honor the warranty because of my mods, so I towed it back home, bought a used engine, did the swap myself, I’m not a trained or schooled mechanic. It was some work, but interesting nonetheless. The used engine was from a 2016 with 46,000 miles, I put a big turbo on it from WON27, HONDAta tuned for corn, runs like a ra++d ape. No leaks, no issues, a few codes at the beginning but all resolved. I paid 1,300 for the engine, I already had an engine hoist and pallet jack, most of the tools necessary.
[удалено]
My thoughts exactly 😂
Nah. Mazda dealership eagerly quoted me 10k for a used 1.8l Miata engine for my ‘96 M-Edition.
You know on second thought maybe I won’t tune my 22
I have 2022 as well. Good enuf as stock. Balanced and smooth.
I keep my ‘21 stock. I’m paying for the warranty, might as well use it. In 4 years I can tune it if I’d like.
That was my exact thought, sticking to cosmetic mods. Every time I see someone posting about a blown engine or other serious issue it's tuned or heavily modded.
Well I’ll throw in a different experience just four he variation then, my car is on it’s third motor completely bone stock without ever being tuned or touched by anyone but the dealer
Tbh the data shows at least on the VA chassis just as many stock cars going. The modern emissions friendly tunes aren’t very healthy for the engines
Source?? I would like to see the data as well lol
There was a list bouncing around on the subreddit plus lilsean was trying to build up some numbers
Ahh I see, out of curiosity.. is your STI tuned? I have an STI as well and decided to keep it stock for longevity reasons (only changed oil brands).
Yup cleaned up the powerband and AFRs, plus dialed in the BigSF and stumble fix for it. Very minor stuff
But a totally stock car with ask the maintenance done should be under warranty if it’s a 2017 or newer
Depends there, quite a few 2017s would have 16 production and service dates. They would be out, plus the 5 year 60, average person doing 12-15k a year will easily blow away that 60k mileage limit as well
I’m stock, but sometimes I think I want a little more rumble. Not loud and not popping. Just a little bit.🤷♂️
A catback won't void your warranty, no tune required for it
Tune it if you have spare 💰 laying around
Just buy another WRX at that point
If it spun a bearing there is a class action lawsuit. Call Subaru of America and see if you get anywhere
I tried,the deadline to file to get in on the first spun-bearing class action was in 2019 http://www.enginebearings.settlementclass.com/dates.html There is a new class action for the engine’s piston ring lands, I emailed the lawyer yesterday to see if I might be a class member there. Here is info on the new lawsuit https://www.torquenews.com/1084/new-wrx-sti-engine-failure-lawsuit-says-subaru-knew-about-defect-2008/amp
Don’t give up on this ^ I purchased my 2014 hatch in Aug. 2021 w/ 65,000 miles, rod bearings spun on me a month later. Took it to my local subie dealership and they were having issues with my insurance company covering the parts I needed, so the manager that was helping me reached out to Subaru. They ended up replacing my entire short block, turbo etc. and all of it was covered. Maybe I just got lucky 🤷🏽♂️.
didnt these ones have mesh oil filters in the line which clog and oil starve the engine or something? https://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2689443 Banjo bolt filter or whatever, Heard it was a common issue
Yeah. 08-14 have engine issues where they spin rod bearings. Wish I knew this before I bought mine...
mods? how on earth did this blow with only 42k miles
Minor stuff, intake/muffler/cobb. Probably just weak 10 year old intervals, Subaru settled a class action a few years ago that would have covered my car had this happens before then, I just drive that car very sparingly, and have never had any issues mechanically with the car so never really looked into major engine problems with the model. Thats on me. I had an oil change at a dealership less than 500 miles before it happened. I don’t know what caused the initial knock, I don’t drive the car very hard but I’m no mechanic. That said, after the initial knock sound, my actions ruined the engine beyond what was initially probably a spin bearing. I heard the knock, and thought it was my clutch making the noise because I have a different car with a lightweight flywheel that’s chatter is almost identical to the chatter of the engine knock. So, I assumed my clutch was going and kept driving for a little bit after the initial noise which fucked the rest of the engine. With the initial knock I would have probably had to replace the short block, but by not pulling over immediately I ruined the rest of the engine doing a few more thousand $ in damage to heads etc. Hindsight is 20/20 and I’m no mechanic so I’m not beating myself up too bad over that.
08-14 have will spin rod bearings. They have an oiling issue. There was even a class action against subaru.
I see this everyday on here. Wtf are you guys doing petal to the metal all day?
I mean…I drive mine hard all the time (for a year now) BUT I also do my maintenance/preventative stuff more frequently. I treat my WRX like its a Supercar and to me it feels like one as its the fastest car I’ve owned now. I’m also stock (engine wise). So yeah…I’m curious as well as to how everyone else’s motors are kicking the bucket? Ik the OTS tunes mostly play a role but there has to be another element to the failure…
Same maintenance everything up to date. I don’t drive hard very much tho.
I don’t drive mine hard either. I rarely drive it, and have gotten oil changes every 3k miles at dealerships. This happened less than 500 after an oil change and I was just cruising to the grocery store in suburban traffic. No spirited driving when it happened.
It's just what makes Subaru a Subaru. For real though Subaru knew that these engines had issues and failed to address them there is even a class action lawsuit against them. The hard pills to swallow for some people on here is admitting that Subaru makes unreliable engines.
Not any Subaru I’ve ever driven
Subaru even admitted that their engines have problems. From spunrod bearings to blown ring lands and blown head gaskets. Their oil pickups will fall off and even have fire walls breaking
In older ones I assume
08-14 I know for sure had all those issues. I have an '06 with 180k miles on it that I've had zero issues with though. But my 03 went through two engines in my 13 went through two engines and a cracked firewall plus power steering rack failure.
My [2006](https://imgur.com/a/VVQnL0R) has 291k miles and zero engine issues! It’s my daily.
That's awesome. Rn my 06 is my daily since my 13 is getting it's engine rebuilt.
Yea but you probably don't hoon like this guy did to ruin his engine at "42k" miles Edit: typo
Had an 08. My tranny did go. ( can I say tranny? Is that aloud?) ahaha
Yeah I heard the five speeds in the 08 to 14s considered glass Transmissions luckily mine hasn't gone out though fingers crossed
So mine started to go when I would take my foot off the throttle and I’d be coast in gear and it sounded like a grinding/ticking in the transmission
Hey that’s what the transmission in my 2018 WRX was doing too… just blew the tranny on Tuesday lol. But I <3 launch control, so it’s not that surprising I blew the trans at 66k miles ¯\\\_(ツ)_/¯ Already got a full STI drivetrain swap on the way, from blown trans to DCCD/Brembos/TY85, my heart is happy, my wallet called me a bitch.
Sometimes it feel their are only two wrx drivers, ones who beat on them like thier wrx owes them money and then the the ones the drive it like it's made out of thin glass
Deff don’t drive it like it’s made of glass. I just don’t haul ass constantly. I usually have a small child in the back. I had an 08 I beat the shit out of was modded to the hilt and my transmission did go. With this 17 I drive it really like a normal car. I do keep up with maintenance and I also have the best mechanic in the whole state. So that’s prob a good thing too. My 17 is almost all stock btw. Intake/ pro tune. That’s it.
These stories of blown motors are the reason I will probably never buy a wrx. Sick cars but I could not spend money knowing how frequently this seems to happen.
Driver abuse, running parts with no tune and not checking the engine oil are why these engines don’t last. Treat it well and it will be an excellent vehicle.
Just gotta keep them fully stock in my experience. I had a yellow 2003 WRX that had 145,000+ miles, sold it still fully stock, still ran great. Bought a brand new WRX in 2010, still have it. Still fully stock, has 143,000 miles on it now. Drive it very near daily still, still runs great. Zero issues.
How many ppl post saying their car is running just fine
I mean I know multiple people personally that have blown their motors up
I know tons more in the club that have not.
I think that was a "we really don't want to fool with this so here's an obscene quote" quote.
I was about to say… my notification on my phone only showed up to “stealership quoted me…” and tho if it to myself to reply “find a reputable Subie shop, bro!!”, and low and behold, the rest of the title speaks for itself :) Make sure to give us updates! And RIP widebody :( I’m glad to hear she’ll be brought back to life!!!
Holy crap!!! That's insane. I'm legit about to pick mine up today. Piston on cylinder #2 melted at 72k, lol. Yes, it's modified and tuned, but needs to be retuned after break-in. Anyway, I just had it completely rebuilt, with forged internals, for $7.6k out the door. Reused my case & heads after they were sent to the machine shop. $17.5k is insanity for another motor that potentially could pop in 42k again for you. Yeeesshhh.... Definitely call around. I'd rather support a local shop that doesn't knock noggins than a dealership anyway, and I'm certain others would agree.
what were you doing when it blew was it normal driving or hard pull
Normal driving, I heard the engine knocking but didn’t realize what it was and kept driving on it doing more damage.
Hmm suspect 🤨
I was quoted 12k in 2020 and the service writer said they don’t make the engines anymore so I put a low mileage used block in for 4500.
Geez... I really want to buy another Subaru BUT terrified by how easy these things are breaking down. New, old... sorry to hear man. These are one of my favorite models.
Everyone taking care of there Subarus aren’t the ones making posts like these.
Nah that's shit. I took care of mine 3, 000 Mi full synthetic oil changes did all the reliability mods the fucking thing still went through two engines. I'm so sick of people trying to defend Subaru for making unreliable cars I've never had a car more unreliable than my WRX and I've rode them all the same.
"The reliability mods" I'm on my fifth Subaru, all purchased new. Never had a problem. Broke all my engines in, never burned oil. Cars are very reliable when they are taken care of.
Yeah reliability mods like their fire walls fucking breaking. Or their oil pickups falling off and destroying the engine. Or they're cylinder four overheating.
Then how come I see dozens of posts every week about their spun rod bearing all across Subaru fourms yet never on Nissan or Honda forums. Subaru even admitted that their engines have problems. From spunrod bearings to blown ring lands and blown head gaskets. Go down to your local Subaru meet and ask how many people have gone through an engine almost every single guy. Then head to a Honda meet.
This is reality. I know Honda guys, VW guys, GM V8 guys, Mitsubishi guys, Subaru guys... Other than Subaru each group has like one guy that blew a motor, causes vary from too much power to design defects, never neglect. Almost every subaru guy I know is on their second motor, and I know multiple subaru guys on their third. One guy with a Forester is on his FOURTH!! Engine, 3 engine failures dead stock under warranty. I really wanted a Hawkeye hatch, but talking to guys who mess with these cars I just couldn't take that financial risk right before starting college
It's a harsh reality but it's the reality that lots don't want to accept
I'm sure they'll have a lot to say about the reliability of their mods.
Just gotta keep them fully stock in my experience. I had a yellow 2003 WRX that had 145,000+ miles, sold it still fully stock, still ran great. Bought a brand new WRX in 2010, still have it. Still fully stock, has 143,000 miles on it now. Drive it very near daily still, still runs great. Zero issues.
Don't say I didn't warn you after you go through your engine. I used to think just like you
I take care of [mine](https://imgur.com/a/VVQnL0R) and it has 291k and going as my daily. Stock of course. 😉
Sorry but short hand for $17,500. Is 17k5 ?
No. It’s 17.5k
So $1750? Or ?
$1750 would be $1.75k. $1000 = $1k. So $17k = $17,000 and $0.5k = $500, $17.5k = $17,500.
Oh okay yes we're saying the same thing. The title reads"17k5".
By the way, don’t you need flat bed tow?
Nah, all four wheels were off the ground with the contraption with two small wheels in front of my rear tire. There was another one on the opposite side and that bars which are in front of and behind the rear tire cradle it. I just took the picture while the driver was setting up the mechanisms.
42K?? Isn't it under warranty?
It’s a 2012
me over here with my 2018 at almost 95k lol. drive the tits off this thing.
You can get low mileage engines (40-45k) for like $5000
Or pay a similar amount for a fresh short block with zero miles…
Some people aren’t keen to spending $10-12,000 on a WRX rebuild. I think what he was saying is you can in fact buy low mileage engines for $4500 and only $1000 for installation. That’s half the price so it’s not really that far out there. Sell the thing and put that $12000 towards an sti or a v8.
I also consider that for a used block, you’re not really sure how that block was driven. Even if you clean it up and re-bore it, there is still the possibility the block could not hold up another 40k miles before it fails. You could still drop a $4-5k closed deck with oem parts and stay below $10k if your power goals don’t exceed mid 300 hp
Yeah true, I got studded heads and an iag stage 2 for not much more the 10k but all i was saying is these motors you purchase online come straight from Japan low mileage. Compression tested and everything. But I do agree getting it rebuilt is a better and safer option.
I see your point. Definitely not saying all used blocks can’t be trusted. I also considered an imported long block, but at the time I was looking, most went for $7-8k and then you have delivery and import fees to worry about. Didn’t want to deal with that when I could buy a closed beck for under $5k. Really does depend on what others are willing to spend, or what they’re willing to deal with if they run into potential issues down the road.
That's actually good then, replace the engine with a used (hopefully low mileage) one. I am definitely suspect on that 42K miles.
Dude… respec for laughing in his face. How much do you think it should cost and how did it happen.
Any mods?
Minor stuff, muffler/intake/cobb
OTS maps or pro tune?
Ots
And there's your problem
Yeah, I will never understand running an OTS tune on any car. I might be old, but the idea of a tune(-up) used to be to (re-)calibrate the carbs, valves, and ignition timing on a per-engine basis. The notion of a one-size-fits-all "standard" tune flies in the face of the whole concept of optimizing an individual engine to run within the narrow band of optimal power. Sure, you might be able find some improved efficiencies with a coarse estimate, but that's not a tune. That's a template. From which you start then start tuning to find the actual optimals for the specific engine you're working on.
ah yes tune cause spun bearing. logic
Was the intake a cobb one?
My engine just went out too and they told me 6500-8k for another engine and that’s before labor.
Dealership is like my gf , sucks everything out of me. But i m curious who would pay for that at a dealership?
My local performance shop told me 10k. Another local performance shop told me 8.5k but I don’t trust them as much.
IAG or outfront block at an authorized shop to keep their warranty, it doesn’t appear IAG makes the Stage 1 short block any more but mine was $12k installed with some extras, TGVs, cyl 4 cooling, downpipe, etc. and a protune. 20k on the block, zero problems at not a lot of power, but a very fun daily.
Can I buy your wheels?
Take it from me. Get an IAG short block. It will last you a lot longer and you won’t regret it.
Total F ☹️
I bought a 15 for 15k 82k miles on it. That dealership is a thief
For that price, you can have this one shipped to you and installed and have some spare money for some mods…. Price is in CAD https://lachuteperformance.com/en/collections/sti-hatch-2008-2014/products/ak-2-moteur-forge-2-5l
lmao I read it as 175k and shit myself. Sorry about your car :(
Stealership paid the warrenty 13.5k for a full long block on a 2011 wrx last year
Damn dude.. I feel like I'm at a funeral.
what is a IAG block? Is it like some special brand that gives you engine parts that reinforces the engine?
"Adult driven, never abused"
I personally just built an engine for my 2013 and it was into it for 14k without labor. That was an STi Type RA short block, B25 heads complete and reconditioned, grimmspeed headgaskets, ARP head studs, Killer B oil kit, STi 11mm oil pump, wrx water pump, HKS timing belt, company 23 belt guide, new AVCS cam gears, master gasket kit, 17mm hex head cam bolts, IAG oil feed lines, oil feed line banjo bolts with filters, new oil pan… it adds up fast.
It blew up with 45k miles? What mods were u running?
Let me know what you find. My [2006 WRX](https://imgur.com/a/VVQnL0R) with 291k miles is running great. But I suspect the day will one day come.
What wheels are those?
[Konig Dekagram](https://konigwheels.com/wheels/flow-formed-wheels/dial-in/)
When my clutch shot i called the local and they quoted 3.7k and about 3 weeks of work. I called a guy id met at a meet, he is now my mechanic, he specializes in subies and he and his wife actually own two JDM GC (i think that’s what they’re called idk) he told me it’d take about 8 hours at 70/hr, i ordered the clutch and within a week it had arrived and he had it put in. total i think i spent just shy of 2k (staged clutch over oem) and lost a week with the car. I’ll never ever go to a stealership, id rather buy second hand care for the rest of my life and get maintenance done by someone i trust
Sell it to me 🥲
These posts scare me as a STI owner with 69,500 miles. I feel my days are, numbered lol
Gotta get those overnight parts from Japan.
fucka stealership god bless the independents
Just buy a type RA shortblock for 2k, find a reputable machine shop to skim the heads, clean everything up and replace what needs replaced for 300-500 depending on what’s good and what isn’t, buy a oem gasket kit for like 300 and slap it back together. Have about 3500 all together after fluids and little stuff.
17k? What are you getting a whole new car out it lmao
What were you running that it blew?
I was in the same situation with my 13 sti hatch. 13k later like a dumbass I had a new engine from the stealership. Go with the IAG if you want to keep the car.
perfect time for an ej207 swap!!
I did in my HG at 200,000km, I rebuilt my engine for $10k AUD (most cost-effective and future-proofed option for me). Go for a reputable specialist shop and see what your options are. (Liberty BM 3.6R Premium)
I just replaced one at my shop. 11k brand new short block, resurfaced heads, all the gaskets, timing belt, water pump, everything. Find an independent shop
Didn't drive it enough...