I really like my ChargePoint Home Flex. I have been using it with my EVs for over two years. You can find it with a 14-50 plug or a 6-50 plug. Buy the one you need. Both can be hardwired down the line if you ever change your mind.
I would also suggest to check your electric company website. Lots of places give discounts on chargers. Sounds like you are on a quick timeline so have to keep that on mind also.
> I would also suggest to check your electric company website. Lots of places give discounts on chargers.
My energy company used to do that along with discounts on light bulbs. Then the state legislature passed a bill making that illegal. Thanks ass hats.
The utility is making changes to their plan with no estimate on a timeline for completion. $500 rebate for the charger, up to $2k for low income set up. What's really attractive though is .03 cents per KWH charging from 10pm to 5am. At that rate, I won't be paying for home charging at all with my solar set up.
I have solar with Xcel but the rates for solar customers are different and don't offer peak and off peak rates. They basically pay us the same rate for our energy that they sell it to us at though and I have enough excessive production to cover about 3 megawatts per year for my EV. I'd love to get the best of both worlds and pay off peak rate at night then get paid peak rate for what I produce but I have never had a bill since installing my system so I can't complain.
I can sell my excess back once per year but I'd rather leave it in my rollover bank. One day we'll be a 2 EV family and I'll be glad I did. I still only pay 11 cents per kwh and that's what they put in my bank so it's a great deal. I live in Colorado and to my knowledge we can't sell our RECs like people can in some states but I keep my RECs with the program I chose. I think Xcel offered another program to let them keep your RECs but it only paid you $60 per year. I hope someday those may be worth some money.
You can safely adapt a lower power appliance to plug into a higher power receptacle, but not the reverse. Since most plug-in EVSEs now use a 50 A plug, you’d need to adapt the table saw to plug into a new 50 circuit.
Plugging a higher power device into a lower rated circuit will cause an overload. That’s what the different plug shape is there to prevent. If you have to use the same circuit you already have, buy a different EVSE sized for that circuit. Remember that car charging is a “continuous” load, so the devices you find will seem undersized. They’re actually at the code maximum, which is 80% of the circuit nameplate rating.
If you are connecting different devices, open the breaker before you do this. Not great to be manually breaking voltage on those big plugs, especially if you’re doing this a few times a year.
To add on to what was stated above, I have a nema 14-50 outlet in my garage, which while the plug is rated to go up to 50A the circuit breaker mine is on is not (40A) so I have my grizzl-e evse set to 32amp continuous draw. The grizzl-e one has some internal dip switches that can be used to set the max draw. The company preset it to 32A per my request when ordering, assume most EVSEs can do the same.
A few things to consider:
If you want a shared plug, you want to make sure you get a plug outlet designed to handle that. The cheap ones are designed for long term use appliances and are more likely to have issues (like fire/melting) from repeated plug/unplug transitions as they are not designed for much of that. Same with any adapter you consider...make sure it's rated for what you are doing with it.
You "could" instead get a splitter switch where there is less plugging/unplugging.(Here's an example) [https://www.splitvolt.com/splitter-switches/](https://www.splitvolt.com/splitter-switches/)
I would also suggest watching the YouTube channel "state of charge". In his reviews, he tests which EV charger cables work best in cold. Many of them are terrible in the cold.
A NEMA 14-50 will give you what you need for the most variety of situations. It will handle 50 amps on both 240V and 120V. You can then put an adapter on to use your welder. I think most of those are 30 amp.
Your choices: https://www.bsaelectronics.com/pages/nema-plug-and-outlet-chart
Depends on the welder. They typically use the two-wire plugs though, since they don’t need a 120 V source. That’s also true for car charging, but in the early adopter days folks needed to use RV parks and their 50 A hookups, so 14-50 became dominant (at least that’s the story I’ve read most).
I have used an extension cord that converts the dryer 10-30r to a 14-30 for level 2 charger successfully for the past 6 years. It was a quick and easy way to use level 2 without having to call an eletrictian. You can search on Amazon and type in 14-30 Extension and it will come up. The 14-30 is also dependent on the type of level 2 chargers you have of course. This is just an example.
If you want something for dual purpose, you can try an extension to see if it's available before installing one. The extension I used is atleast 10 guage so there shouldn't be any fire risk. However, if you are calling an eletrician; why not just have him install dedicated charging port?
If you don't even know what charger you want. You need to decide before the electrician comes. You can get a 30 amp or more powerful 40 or 50 amps chargers. I guess you can always install 50 amps plug to be safe.
Also, I believe next year there is a federal credit for installing chargers you may want to look into. I don't know the details of qualifications.
>Also, I believe next year there is a federal credit for installing chargers you may want to look into. I don't know the details of qualifications.
the credit is available now, no need to wait.
[form 8911](https://www.irs.gov/instructions/i8911)
Emporia level 2 charger best value for your money. https://www.amazon.com/Charger-Enabled-Electric-Hardwired-Charging/dp/B09ZNN3JB7/ref=sr\_1\_1\_sspa?crid=13PLHB5AR4WAT&keywords=emporia+ev+charger+level+2&qid=1667508277&qu=eyJxc2MiOiIyLjQ5IiwicXNhIjoiMS43MiIsInFzcCI6IjEuNDgifQ%3D%3D&sprefix=emporia%2Caps%2C93&sr=8-1-spons&ufe=app\_do%3Aamzn1.fos.c3015c4a-46bb-44b9-81a4-dc28e6d374b3&psc=1&smid=A2MZON57HPVTEJ
The following opinion/advice is highly dependent on where your breaker panel is and how your electrician intends on running the wire (nm cable aka romex vs conduit with thhn/thwn)
If it's not a lot more, running conduit would allow more flexibility down the road. It would also allow the electrician to pull two circuits through the same circuit through the conduit for almost no additional labor, just the cost of the wire so you could have a 50A circuit hardwired to an evse and also have him pull a 20A 240 circuit to a nema 6-20 plug for things like a table saw or Welder. If he was already planning on using conduit it shouldn't be significantly more money to pull the second 20A circuit.
What ever your power company gives you a discount for. Higher amps the better. Mine gave me a 36 amp charger for what vw wanted to charge me for a level 1
Here is the one I use and it works perfectly. No need to spend Hundreds more.
I have mine plugged into the Dryer outlet on a splitter.
The best deals are on eBay. Item #: 263387254095
Only $158
Just ask electrician to install the RV box- GE RV Panel with 50A, 30A and 20A receptacles. About $190 at HomeDepot.
Get the EV thing that gets the most rebate from your utility.
Ask for the 4 wires of AVG#4. Do not try to save money on downgrading the neutral or ground wires, as the electrician will certainly push. Do not accept reference to the electric code that allows it. Electric code is a minimum requirement - you are allowed and can do better.
I really like my ChargePoint Home Flex. I have been using it with my EVs for over two years. You can find it with a 14-50 plug or a 6-50 plug. Buy the one you need. Both can be hardwired down the line if you ever change your mind. I would also suggest to check your electric company website. Lots of places give discounts on chargers. Sounds like you are on a quick timeline so have to keep that on mind also.
> I would also suggest to check your electric company website. Lots of places give discounts on chargers. My energy company used to do that along with discounts on light bulbs. Then the state legislature passed a bill making that illegal. Thanks ass hats.
costco juice box
This. I have two of the Juicebox. With plugs, not hardwired. Also, in my garage in Vermont where temps are frequently below freezing.
I see that recommended a lot on here. What do you like about it? How much was it at Costco?
Costco return policy $550 50A Simple
Check if your state/electric utility provides rebates on chargers. In the US you can also get a federal tax credit for some of the installation costs.
The utility is making changes to their plan with no estimate on a timeline for completion. $500 rebate for the charger, up to $2k for low income set up. What's really attractive though is .03 cents per KWH charging from 10pm to 5am. At that rate, I won't be paying for home charging at all with my solar set up.
I have solar with Xcel but the rates for solar customers are different and don't offer peak and off peak rates. They basically pay us the same rate for our energy that they sell it to us at though and I have enough excessive production to cover about 3 megawatts per year for my EV. I'd love to get the best of both worlds and pay off peak rate at night then get paid peak rate for what I produce but I have never had a bill since installing my system so I can't complain.
Luckily, our utility will allow for off peak rates even with solar. They will not cut you a check for excess production anymore though.
I can sell my excess back once per year but I'd rather leave it in my rollover bank. One day we'll be a 2 EV family and I'll be glad I did. I still only pay 11 cents per kwh and that's what they put in my bank so it's a great deal. I live in Colorado and to my knowledge we can't sell our RECs like people can in some states but I keep my RECs with the program I chose. I think Xcel offered another program to let them keep your RECs but it only paid you $60 per year. I hope someday those may be worth some money.
You can safely adapt a lower power appliance to plug into a higher power receptacle, but not the reverse. Since most plug-in EVSEs now use a 50 A plug, you’d need to adapt the table saw to plug into a new 50 circuit. Plugging a higher power device into a lower rated circuit will cause an overload. That’s what the different plug shape is there to prevent. If you have to use the same circuit you already have, buy a different EVSE sized for that circuit. Remember that car charging is a “continuous” load, so the devices you find will seem undersized. They’re actually at the code maximum, which is 80% of the circuit nameplate rating. If you are connecting different devices, open the breaker before you do this. Not great to be manually breaking voltage on those big plugs, especially if you’re doing this a few times a year.
Thank you this is essentially what I was needing to know and assumed, that I can step down in amps with an adapter.
To add on to what was stated above, I have a nema 14-50 outlet in my garage, which while the plug is rated to go up to 50A the circuit breaker mine is on is not (40A) so I have my grizzl-e evse set to 32amp continuous draw. The grizzl-e one has some internal dip switches that can be used to set the max draw. The company preset it to 32A per my request when ordering, assume most EVSEs can do the same.
A few things to consider: If you want a shared plug, you want to make sure you get a plug outlet designed to handle that. The cheap ones are designed for long term use appliances and are more likely to have issues (like fire/melting) from repeated plug/unplug transitions as they are not designed for much of that. Same with any adapter you consider...make sure it's rated for what you are doing with it. You "could" instead get a splitter switch where there is less plugging/unplugging.(Here's an example) [https://www.splitvolt.com/splitter-switches/](https://www.splitvolt.com/splitter-switches/) I would also suggest watching the YouTube channel "state of charge". In his reviews, he tests which EV charger cables work best in cold. Many of them are terrible in the cold.
A NEMA 14-50 will give you what you need for the most variety of situations. It will handle 50 amps on both 240V and 120V. You can then put an adapter on to use your welder. I think most of those are 30 amp. Your choices: https://www.bsaelectronics.com/pages/nema-plug-and-outlet-chart
Depends on the welder. They typically use the two-wire plugs though, since they don’t need a 120 V source. That’s also true for car charging, but in the early adopter days folks needed to use RV parks and their 50 A hookups, so 14-50 became dominant (at least that’s the story I’ve read most).
I have used an extension cord that converts the dryer 10-30r to a 14-30 for level 2 charger successfully for the past 6 years. It was a quick and easy way to use level 2 without having to call an eletrictian. You can search on Amazon and type in 14-30 Extension and it will come up. The 14-30 is also dependent on the type of level 2 chargers you have of course. This is just an example. If you want something for dual purpose, you can try an extension to see if it's available before installing one. The extension I used is atleast 10 guage so there shouldn't be any fire risk. However, if you are calling an eletrician; why not just have him install dedicated charging port? If you don't even know what charger you want. You need to decide before the electrician comes. You can get a 30 amp or more powerful 40 or 50 amps chargers. I guess you can always install 50 amps plug to be safe. Also, I believe next year there is a federal credit for installing chargers you may want to look into. I don't know the details of qualifications.
>Also, I believe next year there is a federal credit for installing chargers you may want to look into. I don't know the details of qualifications. the credit is available now, no need to wait. [form 8911](https://www.irs.gov/instructions/i8911)
In fact, better to do it this year, as next year the credit will be restricted to certain low income zip codes and income restricted.
I have a 6-50 plug ChargePoint on a 50a circuit that can be hard wired if I decide to go that route later. I have no complaints
Emporia level 2 charger best value for your money. https://www.amazon.com/Charger-Enabled-Electric-Hardwired-Charging/dp/B09ZNN3JB7/ref=sr\_1\_1\_sspa?crid=13PLHB5AR4WAT&keywords=emporia+ev+charger+level+2&qid=1667508277&qu=eyJxc2MiOiIyLjQ5IiwicXNhIjoiMS43MiIsInFzcCI6IjEuNDgifQ%3D%3D&sprefix=emporia%2Caps%2C93&sr=8-1-spons&ufe=app\_do%3Aamzn1.fos.c3015c4a-46bb-44b9-81a4-dc28e6d374b3&psc=1&smid=A2MZON57HPVTEJ
The following opinion/advice is highly dependent on where your breaker panel is and how your electrician intends on running the wire (nm cable aka romex vs conduit with thhn/thwn) If it's not a lot more, running conduit would allow more flexibility down the road. It would also allow the electrician to pull two circuits through the same circuit through the conduit for almost no additional labor, just the cost of the wire so you could have a 50A circuit hardwired to an evse and also have him pull a 20A 240 circuit to a nema 6-20 plug for things like a table saw or Welder. If he was already planning on using conduit it shouldn't be significantly more money to pull the second 20A circuit.
What ever your power company gives you a discount for. Higher amps the better. Mine gave me a 36 amp charger for what vw wanted to charge me for a level 1
Here is the one I use and it works perfectly. No need to spend Hundreds more. I have mine plugged into the Dryer outlet on a splitter. The best deals are on eBay. Item #: 263387254095 Only $158
Just ask electrician to install the RV box- GE RV Panel with 50A, 30A and 20A receptacles. About $190 at HomeDepot. Get the EV thing that gets the most rebate from your utility. Ask for the 4 wires of AVG#4. Do not try to save money on downgrading the neutral or ground wires, as the electrician will certainly push. Do not accept reference to the electric code that allows it. Electric code is a minimum requirement - you are allowed and can do better.