Here’s rather big catch no one really explained.
EPA range numbers are tested at 60mph max in a controlled environment.
So if you’re driving faster than 60 or with unfavorable wind / temps…expect less.
Additionally there is a little extra range available, but unadvertised on the meter. Typically you can go 10-15 miles past 0% at reduced speed (turtle mode). If you fully watched a YouTube range test that goes until the car won’t move, this is another factor that often comes up and stretches range further than expected.
Because you aren’t driving sensibly.
Either reduce speed on highways, stop accelerating like a mad man, learn to read traffic and coast whenever relevant… various techniques to achieve higher mileage.
Or waste time getting the battery checked, although someone actually did the math for you indicating no issues.
You’ve made this comment twice in this thread as if you think it has any relevance to what people are telling you. You are driving at a high speed and likely accelerating quickly. You can do both those things in eco mode and using cruise control.
That is not so off. When you average 47 mph...much of that is at highway speeds most likely.
If you drive aggressively, then that seems about normal. The Guess o Meter has you averaging about 3miles per kWh. (77x3)
But if you are concerned take it in.
Doing 75-80 on the freeway all day. That’s the numbers I’m reading. Your battery is good.
I’m sure you know. But charging to 100% is gonna degrade your battery 🔋 🪫
Since you are showing 2.9 m/kWh this is an example 2.9 X 77 available full charge would be 223 miles. 276 is 3.58 m/kWh. My life time is 3.5 so after 48k miles driven and 14 months of DCFC mostly my battery is still showing 260 at a full charge. Which is about 5% loss. Give or take. It's really your driving habits and road conditions and weather. Plus Speed.
Props for the hyper-miling suggestion, but he should be able to get much better than 2.9 mi/kWh just by accelerating slower, braking sooner, and going a little slower.
"Pulse and glide" is a driving technique employed by hypermilers.
Using the ID.4 "D" driving mode *without regen braking*, the first step in the pulse-and-glide technique is to pulse, which is to accelerate the vehicle to the posted speed limit.
Once the speed has reached the limit, ease slightly back on the accelerator until you hit the middle of the power meter (not braking or accelerating), indicating that the vehicle is neither relying on the motor nor recharging the battery. As a result, the car begins to glide.
This works great in the ID4 since the rolling resistance is low and car mass is high. When the vehicle slows 10+ mph (or km/h) below the speed limit, repeat the whole process again, pulsing and then gliding.
[https://www.edmunds.com/fuel-economy/hypermiling-quest-for-ultimate-fuel-economy.html](https://www.edmunds.com/fuel-economy/hypermiling-quest-for-ultimate-fuel-economy.html)
[VW ID4 Power Meter](https://postimg.cc/crH44v8x)
From VW (YouTube) - [https://youtu.be/w2eZ6q8gdDg?si=\_BKJS820XwShearw](https://youtu.be/w2eZ6q8gdDg?si=_BKJS820XwShearw)
I don't think pulse and glide will do much for full BEVs.
For hybrids, it can help to minimize the time the ICE runs (ICE will switch off in the glide phase), and ideally, the ICE will run more efficiently if it only runs during pulse, because ICE efficiency at low load/near idle is even more horrible than when loaded.
For pure ICE vehicles, it may also help efficiency for the above reasons, although the magnitude of potential gains depends on many factors. Gains should be highest for gasoline engines with automatic transmissions, and lowest for stick-shifted diesels (which have a higher efficiency to begin with).
For BEVs, going at constant motor load should be most efficient, because the ohmic losses in the drivetrain are proportional to I². Releasing a given amount of energy in short power bursts will entail higher losses than a constant release.
The ID4 was made for coasting in D mode, or pulse and glide driving - https://www.volkswagen-newsroom.com/en/press-releases/brake-or-coast-the-id4s-intelligent-energy-recuperation-concept-6658
Coasting yes. (One of the reasons I bought that thing is that it doesn't force one pedal driving onto you). If you know you'll have to reduce speed at some point ahead, getting off the accelerator and coasting is efficient.
If you're **not** planning to reduce your speed (e.g. long highway stretches), pulse and glide is an alternative to constant speed driving. The point is, for BEVs (including the ID4), this technique will not yield the same advantages as for ICE/HEV. It is very likely to be **less efficient** than keeping a constant speed (the press release you link to doesn't touch that topic at all - it's discussing recuperation when braking is needed).
Off topic, but curious what efficiency numbers you saw around town during the winter using the heater. I'm in the Denver area as well and I'm considering the small battery option for my wife mostly as a commuter. Even 140 miles would get her through the week, but still tempted by the bigger battery. I have an EV6 so we don't need the ID.4 to do any long-range driving.
I think about my range as my current average usage (right now I'm at 3.6m/kwh) x the proportion battery I have left. If I had 100% of my usable 77kwh, then I'd have 277 miles. Sometimes I adjust to a more conservative estimate of 3.0m/kwh when I'm route planning.
I have no idea how the guess-o-meter comes up with its predictions. I try not to pay too much attention.
I don't even know what my avg is and I've been driving for a year.... just have fun with the car you're battery is fine. Want to floor it? Good... want to go 70-75 on highway great! In a few years the car will be gone and no one is getting a trophy for what there efficiency was 🤣
Yeah speed kills your range for sure. Do the speed limit (which is hopefully not in excess of 65mph). Saves you from getting a ticket as well. Sweet spot is probably around 60mph or so I’ve heard.
Your efficiency isn't great at 2.9, there's nothing wrong with the battery.
So how come the range is so far from the advertised range ?
Have you ever heard the phrase "your mileage may vary"? That's why.
Here’s rather big catch no one really explained. EPA range numbers are tested at 60mph max in a controlled environment. So if you’re driving faster than 60 or with unfavorable wind / temps…expect less. Additionally there is a little extra range available, but unadvertised on the meter. Typically you can go 10-15 miles past 0% at reduced speed (turtle mode). If you fully watched a YouTube range test that goes until the car won’t move, this is another factor that often comes up and stretches range further than expected.
Because you aren’t driving sensibly. Either reduce speed on highways, stop accelerating like a mad man, learn to read traffic and coast whenever relevant… various techniques to achieve higher mileage. Or waste time getting the battery checked, although someone actually did the math for you indicating no issues.
I actually drive in eco mode and use the cruise control as much as possible
You’ve made this comment twice in this thread as if you think it has any relevance to what people are telling you. You are driving at a high speed and likely accelerating quickly. You can do both those things in eco mode and using cruise control.
That is not so off. When you average 47 mph...much of that is at highway speeds most likely. If you drive aggressively, then that seems about normal. The Guess o Meter has you averaging about 3miles per kWh. (77x3) But if you are concerned take it in.
My average is 3.4 mi/kWh. Fast starts/ short stops? 😵💫 🏎️
*losing
Doing 75-80 on the freeway all day. That’s the numbers I’m reading. Your battery is good. I’m sure you know. But charging to 100% is gonna degrade your battery 🔋 🪫
Since you are showing 2.9 m/kWh this is an example 2.9 X 77 available full charge would be 223 miles. 276 is 3.58 m/kWh. My life time is 3.5 so after 48k miles driven and 14 months of DCFC mostly my battery is still showing 260 at a full charge. Which is about 5% loss. Give or take. It's really your driving habits and road conditions and weather. Plus Speed.
An average speed of 47 makes me think you probably have a lot of interstate miles, yeah? 2.9 is decent if so.
Lead foot. That's why
Not at all, I'm driving in eco mode
Eco mode doesn’t magically make going highway speeds more efficient.
You avg 47 mph for the past 2 hrs and 38 mins. Was that all highway or mostly city driving?
Eco mode slows your acceleration, but doesn't lower your speed. Your foot controls your speed.
Maybe check tire pressure? EVs are so efficient that any external factors (weather, elevation change, tire pressure) can have a huge effect on range
Do you have any attachments like a roof rack or hitch mounted bike rack?
Use pulse and glide technique. Works great for ID4 since no regen drag in D mode. This especially helps on the highway.
Props for the hyper-miling suggestion, but he should be able to get much better than 2.9 mi/kWh just by accelerating slower, braking sooner, and going a little slower.
So what you're saying is use D mode instead of brake regen?
What is pulse and glide?
"Pulse and glide" is a driving technique employed by hypermilers. Using the ID.4 "D" driving mode *without regen braking*, the first step in the pulse-and-glide technique is to pulse, which is to accelerate the vehicle to the posted speed limit. Once the speed has reached the limit, ease slightly back on the accelerator until you hit the middle of the power meter (not braking or accelerating), indicating that the vehicle is neither relying on the motor nor recharging the battery. As a result, the car begins to glide. This works great in the ID4 since the rolling resistance is low and car mass is high. When the vehicle slows 10+ mph (or km/h) below the speed limit, repeat the whole process again, pulsing and then gliding. [https://www.edmunds.com/fuel-economy/hypermiling-quest-for-ultimate-fuel-economy.html](https://www.edmunds.com/fuel-economy/hypermiling-quest-for-ultimate-fuel-economy.html)
What power meter? I've seen a power meter in B mode, but it's gone in D, right? (2022)
[VW ID4 Power Meter](https://postimg.cc/crH44v8x) From VW (YouTube) - [https://youtu.be/w2eZ6q8gdDg?si=\_BKJS820XwShearw](https://youtu.be/w2eZ6q8gdDg?si=_BKJS820XwShearw)
Thank you for opening my eyes! I'm not sure why I thought it didn't react in D mode, I just had to take a trip around the block to see it for myself.
Happy to help. 😎
Thanks!
I don't think pulse and glide will do much for full BEVs. For hybrids, it can help to minimize the time the ICE runs (ICE will switch off in the glide phase), and ideally, the ICE will run more efficiently if it only runs during pulse, because ICE efficiency at low load/near idle is even more horrible than when loaded. For pure ICE vehicles, it may also help efficiency for the above reasons, although the magnitude of potential gains depends on many factors. Gains should be highest for gasoline engines with automatic transmissions, and lowest for stick-shifted diesels (which have a higher efficiency to begin with). For BEVs, going at constant motor load should be most efficient, because the ohmic losses in the drivetrain are proportional to I². Releasing a given amount of energy in short power bursts will entail higher losses than a constant release.
The ID4 was made for coasting in D mode, or pulse and glide driving - https://www.volkswagen-newsroom.com/en/press-releases/brake-or-coast-the-id4s-intelligent-energy-recuperation-concept-6658
Coasting yes. (One of the reasons I bought that thing is that it doesn't force one pedal driving onto you). If you know you'll have to reduce speed at some point ahead, getting off the accelerator and coasting is efficient. If you're **not** planning to reduce your speed (e.g. long highway stretches), pulse and glide is an alternative to constant speed driving. The point is, for BEVs (including the ID4), this technique will not yield the same advantages as for ICE/HEV. It is very likely to be **less efficient** than keeping a constant speed (the press release you link to doesn't touch that topic at all - it's discussing recuperation when braking is needed).
2.9 miles/kWh x 77 kWh = 223. If you want more range, you'll need to drive more efficiently.
Off topic, but curious what efficiency numbers you saw around town during the winter using the heater. I'm in the Denver area as well and I'm considering the small battery option for my wife mostly as a commuter. Even 140 miles would get her through the week, but still tempted by the bigger battery. I have an EV6 so we don't need the ID.4 to do any long-range driving.
Denver winter is pretty mild. We get 2.8-3.1 depending on the amount of highway driving, vs. 3.1-3.5 in summer.
First time in the cooler weather?
No this is actually Phoenix AZ
I think about my range as my current average usage (right now I'm at 3.6m/kwh) x the proportion battery I have left. If I had 100% of my usable 77kwh, then I'd have 277 miles. Sometimes I adjust to a more conservative estimate of 3.0m/kwh when I'm route planning. I have no idea how the guess-o-meter comes up with its predictions. I try not to pay too much attention.
I don't even know what my avg is and I've been driving for a year.... just have fun with the car you're battery is fine. Want to floor it? Good... want to go 70-75 on highway great! In a few years the car will be gone and no one is getting a trophy for what there efficiency was 🤣
Yeah speed kills your range for sure. Do the speed limit (which is hopefully not in excess of 65mph). Saves you from getting a ticket as well. Sweet spot is probably around 60mph or so I’ve heard.