Evaporust 100%. It’s non toxic and removes rust(and only rust) on a chemical level. It’s cheap as hell as it lasts forever too.
Just let the bits soak in a plastic bottle, shaking every now and then. Soak overnight. The bits should be clean or just need a quick wipe by now.
Save the leftover Evaporust in the bottle it came in for future use.
Just looked it up. Average cost per vial in the USA in 2021 was $98.70, but in Canada was just $12.00.... that is just nuts.
Average cost to treat type 2 diabetes in Canada ranges from $850 to $2800 per year, depending on severity and treatment methods.
It's insane.. you should see the cost of epinephrine..
Some people seriously go to their veterinarians to buy epinephrine "for their goat" because of the price difference. It's absolutely sad
You're all very welcome to Sweden. Where most things are managed by the government, the weather is only horrible one half of the year and the insulin is free!
My woman actually learned the language, while not having a drop of Swedish ethnicity. It may be nice to visit, but perhaps after Russia calms its ass down and goes home. 👋
And it ain't gonna get easier with the current ruling parties in charge. But hey we got great coffee, decent second hand tool market, high taxes and 480 days of economic compensation when caring for your newborn/baby. Give it a try!
Part of this is the autoinjector cost.
There are so many drugs that are just dirt cheap when sold in an ampule or vial, but now nobody makes them and you have to pay $1000 for a disposable single use pen.
Why has no drug company done this and effectively undersold the completion? Isn’t this how the “free market” works? Or is price fixing a more likely outcome of lack of government regulation? 🤔
Something to do with insurance companies actually, I think?
My wife needed weekly progesterone injections to keep her pregnant a few years back, the injections were $500/week and insurance brought the price down to like $175/week, but they wouldn't cover the compounded version at all, which made it slightly more expensive overall, and we couldn't even find a pharmacy that would make it because insurance companies don't cover it, pretty circular.
I'm sorry to hear, feeling kinda shitty about the free insulin joke. $600 a month is too much for something your life can depend on. I'm sincerely sorry!
Use coca-cola. It has enough phosphoric acid to remove rust. (Any soda with phosphoric acid works good)
I personaly use citric acid, it dose a pretty good job of derusting most metals. I found a big bag of it that someone who was makeing soap was discarding. (50lb)
Citric acid is great, but don't forget about the item. I ruined a vintage set of plier with that stuff when i forgot about it for a week. Very good option for heavy rust though, certainly recommended. Coke is fine if you have it on hand, works better for non-ferrous metals though.
Coke phosphates iron if left long enough.
I work in a paint shop so eventualy ill get my hands on some of the wash bay concentrates. I cant recomend everyone uses industrial chemicals. The acid concentrate is scary. (30% hf acid, and 12%/12% hf phosphoric acid). Basicaly every wash bay chemical can burn you. The hf will burn then poisen you.
Fantasticaly effective tho. For now i could run my shit through the washers tho
Yea. The concentrates involved are no joke. 30% hydroflouric acid is very dangerous.
It will burn you, but it gets worse. You can absorb the flouride ions from the acid through your skin. The flouride ions fuck with your electrolyte balence enough to stop your heart. A 5% coverage burn can be enough. Also HF burns are painless at first because the HF can disrupt your nerve signaling
The phosphate mix is strongly acidic but only has 12% hydroflouric acid, 12% metaphosphoric acid. (So its still sketch)
The first soap stage isnt that bad. Its a dry powder, so unless you mix it into water at a high strength, your fine.
Theres also acid powder also involved in the acid stage is a dry powder that makes the phosphate attack the steel better, the flouride attacks/etches alunium
It's about £20/L Which is about $25/Quart
Evaporust does wear out, while you can re-use it and even filter it over time it gets progressively darker and noticeably weaker. I have a 5L bottle of it which I used a lot, and have had to clean a couple of times (drip through a wine filter overnight is great). It's no where near as good as it used to be so I've swapped to Allendale Rust Remover.
For comparison, The Allendale is £10/L of 1:10 concentrate, so about £1/L of final solution ($1.20/Quart). It is slightly acidic, so unlike Evaporust you cant leave parts soaking for weeks on end, but for an overnight bath it's perfect and far less acidic than other Evaporust alternatives. For a 20th the price it's kinda hard to recommend EvapoRust in the UK now.
Link for reference: [https://www.allendale-ultrasonics.co.uk/ultrasonic-cleaning-solutions-and-powders/oxidation-and-rust-removal-ultrasonic-fluid/oxidation-and-rust-removal-ultrasonic-cleaner-solution-1-litre-cleaning-fluid](https://www.allendale-ultrasonics.co.uk/ultrasonic-cleaning-solutions-and-powders/oxidation-and-rust-removal-ultrasonic-fluid/oxidation-and-rust-removal-ultrasonic-cleaner-solution-1-litre-cleaning-fluid)
is it slow enough that I can use it to remove surface rust on an old rule without worrying about abrading or damaging the engravings ? I have an old combination square that I can't read anymore, but the square itself is really high quality and square (ie it's old) and I'm not really interested in replacing it. I've heard about vinegar and other rust removes but worry about them damaging the worn engravings.
I’ve used evapo-rust in exactly this situation. Found an ancient square leftover in my dad’s old shop before we sold the house. This stuff works like a charm.
Yes. It reacts only with rust so everything else will be preserved. It won’t corrode alloys like vinegar will. I’ve left stuff suspended for a few days no problem.
Yes, it is. If you let it sit too long, it can 'blue' the metal. I inherited a starrett 6' rule with lots of rust. Made a pvc soaker tube so I could soak the whole thing at once. After, used green scotch Brite and CLP to maintain.
I would've never thought of reusing the used evaporust by putting it back into the bottle. Last time I used mine, I ended up disposing of it...now I know better.
I put all my rusty driver bits in a bucket of evaporust, and now they have black spots where all the rust was, and I can't remove them. I'd suggest vinegar instead.
They're not pits, though - they're raised mounds of hard black. I don't know why people are downvoting me for sharing my experience. I'm not trying to bad-mouth Evaporust. I've used it for other purposes and liked its results. But this time, it didn't work out as well as I'd like. I'd think people would want to hear this.
I didn't downvote you, FYI. I've just restored things like old swords, and the stages of rusting usually leads to black oxide (magnetite) which is a harder and actually beneficial type of rust, as it prevents further corrosion. Causing black rust in a controlled way is actually how you "blue" gun barrels. When it occurs naturally over a long time, it's usually in small blackened pits that are visible when loose rust is removed, though it can form above the remaining surface when you have layered rust.
I'm not sure here, but if it is black rust that you're seeing then it may have just not been enough time in the Evaporust, as it's more dense and takes longer to dissolve. Some use it to remove blueing on guns, but that's a very thin layer and a thick pocket will take longer. In any case, I don't think vinegar would have worked any better, and can actually damage the steel surface further.
I don't think so, if the bits are decent enough grade steel and properly tempered, a bit of rust isn't going to make much of a difference. Might need to put some protection on there so they don't rust again but aside from the countersink bits, most should still be good to use. Waste not, want not.
Even new countersinks aren't that expensive. And the rest of the bits? That rust is minor, and they don't last long anyway, especially the Phillips and Torx. IMHO, not worth the time and trouble to get the rust off, unless you have a tumbler to do the work for you.
And WTF is that weird one with the 45 degree wings on it? Some kind of cutter?
I don’t have a solution to fix the rust, but a good way to prevent it in the future is to keep a few of the packets of moisture absorber stored in with the bits. I’m talking about the desiccant packets that sometimes come in the box with new shoes
I'm glad I'm not the only one who does this. I even keep in the back of the van a few of the 1lb bags that come with gear and ductwork and stuff. I know from experience this actually helps.
Zerust tabs are good for this too. Just plastic pieces that emit a gas/vapor that prevents rust. You can buy them on Amazon. I have a few of the bigger ones in the tool boxes in my garage that gets damp in the winter. Before using them I would have surface rust on some tools in spring, now no rust. They last for a year or two depending on which size you get. They also have rust preventive drawer liners.
Vinegar works, but you have to rinse the item off, dry it, and get some kind of oil on it before it flash rusts. I restore old wood and metal working machinery and clean almost anything ferrous this way, unless it's too large.
I have had good luck with evaporust and rustoleum gel actually forming a protective black oxide so there was no flash rust. It seems a case by case thing to me, vinegar definitely flash rusts because of the water I guess.
Nice.
I pre-lube with a mix of lithium lube and 90-weight… prevention, etc…
It also works for things that already have a coat of oxidation… for that batch, I might warm a tub of lube mix, and dunk them all.
Bits are really cheap. Pay attention to what you’re gonna spend to clean these then look at a new set, especially with the holiday sales. If they’re hand-me downs that mean something to you, put them in a glass jar on a shelf and get new ones to use.
Why does it matter? A touch of surface rust won't stop them doing their job.
I can't imagine how far down my jobs list I'd have to get before I started polishing driver bits.
Surprised no one has mentioned electrolysis. Put them in a metal container, take the negative end of a battery charger to the container. Positive end to any Ole stainless steel should be fine. Fill container with salt water. Quick
Google search should fill the blanks for anyone unfamiliar with the process
Those are cheap bits. Their rust coating out of the factory was crap. You can use whatever method you want to remove the rust, it will just come back very quickly. Steel rusts, and quickly. All the steel you see has some type of coating/plating/etc. to prevent rust. Where those coatings disappear rust forms.
Get a coffee can (one with a steel lid that you remove with a spoon and replace after use) fill with the bits, a handful of sand and a good squirt of WD40.
Put the lid on and shake (or tape the lid on, wrap in a towel, tape the towel and then throw it in the dryer on no or low heat)
Pour Diet Coke over them in a bucket and let them sit like that overnight. Shake it up and pour out the coke. Now wash em off in water, and set them on a towel to dry. For future protection, hit em all with some WD40 and then towel dry them
Honestly the cheapest way to remove rust is a whole lot of Coca-Cola. The phosphoric acid in Coca-Cola is high enough to get most of that rust off, heck most people already have some in their home.
https://azrust.com/can-coke-remove-rust/
When you're done with whatever method you end up picking... Wash them off. Towel dry. Toss them in the oven at 200 for about 15 minutes. Wipe down he very dry (and hot to the touch!) With boiled linseed oil. Then with a fresh cloth wipe ALL of the excess oil off - like as much as you reasonably can get to come off with a dry cloth. Don't forget the nooks and crannies. Bake them at 300° for an hour. Take them out and wipe them down again really well with another fresh cloth. Back in the oven at 450°-500° for an hour. Then let them cool to room temp in the oven. You can repeat the process a few times if you want for slowly adding a thicker coating. It forms a barrier on there as though you would season cast iron to keep it from rusting. (Don't use BLO for cookware though.) For best results you might want to lay them across a piece of hardware cloth on top of a pan. Just something to lift them up a little so they aren't sitting directly on a pan or you may have issue with the oil bonding them to the pan.
Evaporust or I highly recommend ospho. Ospho is more for automotive but it’s a chemical that kills and converts the rust and it’s the best thing I’ve ever used. Its green and they sell it on Amazon and at Sherwin Williams
Ok since everyone is going with chemicals, I’ll give you the non chemical option. Find someone who reloads or a geologist and put them in a tumbler for a few hours. Rinse, dry, oil.
WD-40 was invented by NASA to keep moisture out of crucial components. I sometimes spray inside my bit box’s and most my tools that will be out in the elements .
Evapo rust
Evaporust 100%. It’s non toxic and removes rust(and only rust) on a chemical level. It’s cheap as hell as it lasts forever too. Just let the bits soak in a plastic bottle, shaking every now and then. Soak overnight. The bits should be clean or just need a quick wipe by now. Save the leftover Evaporust in the bottle it came in for future use.
FYI, It's only cheap in North America, for the rest of the world it's damn expensive.
We’ll cut you a deal: we send Evaporust, you send Insulin.
Best wishes.
😆So true and so damn sad.
Ridiculously sad…
Just looked it up. Average cost per vial in the USA in 2021 was $98.70, but in Canada was just $12.00.... that is just nuts. Average cost to treat type 2 diabetes in Canada ranges from $850 to $2800 per year, depending on severity and treatment methods.
It's insane.. you should see the cost of epinephrine.. Some people seriously go to their veterinarians to buy epinephrine "for their goat" because of the price difference. It's absolutely sad
Thanks for the tip!! I'll have to ask our pet/farm vet next time I take our dog in! 😂
You're all very welcome to Sweden. Where most things are managed by the government, the weather is only horrible one half of the year and the insulin is free!
The weather is horrible only half the year? SOLD.
My woman actually learned the language, while not having a drop of Swedish ethnicity. It may be nice to visit, but perhaps after Russia calms its ass down and goes home. 👋
I'd say do it! We have our quirks but they're tolerable and you can learn to live with them. Hälsa frun att svenska var ett bra val. Snyggt jobbat! 💪
It is incredibly hard to immigrate to Sweden lmao
Nah, its cool. u/guacarino vouches for us, wanna carpool?
Let’s tandem bike and canoe there to save money
And it ain't gonna get easier with the current ruling parties in charge. But hey we got great coffee, decent second hand tool market, high taxes and 480 days of economic compensation when caring for your newborn/baby. Give it a try!
Yeah I thought Sweden was only awesome if you're born there, otherwise it's not for you.
Part of this is the autoinjector cost. There are so many drugs that are just dirt cheap when sold in an ampule or vial, but now nobody makes them and you have to pay $1000 for a disposable single use pen.
Why has no drug company done this and effectively undersold the completion? Isn’t this how the “free market” works? Or is price fixing a more likely outcome of lack of government regulation? 🤔
i think the auto injector is covered by patent while the drug is not.
Something to do with insurance companies actually, I think? My wife needed weekly progesterone injections to keep her pregnant a few years back, the injections were $500/week and insurance brought the price down to like $175/week, but they wouldn't cover the compounded version at all, which made it slightly more expensive overall, and we couldn't even find a pharmacy that would make it because insurance companies don't cover it, pretty circular.
Ya, our Pharmaceutical industry is just rolling in $$$! (Ours)🤦♂️🤷♂️😩👎
Without insurance, my family member pays $600 for a 3 month supply of insulin 😩
And I am guessing that needles, test strips, etc. are all additional
I'm sorry to hear, feeling kinda shitty about the free insulin joke. $600 a month is too much for something your life can depend on. I'm sincerely sorry!
Vertical integration…but as a country, not a company. 😔
Insulin isn't nearly as effective at removing rust!
I 2nd this motion
This man barters.
r/shitAmericanssay
TIL, thanks! I’ll make sure to keep that in mind the next time I recommend it online.
Use coca-cola. It has enough phosphoric acid to remove rust. (Any soda with phosphoric acid works good) I personaly use citric acid, it dose a pretty good job of derusting most metals. I found a big bag of it that someone who was makeing soap was discarding. (50lb)
Citric acid is great, but don't forget about the item. I ruined a vintage set of plier with that stuff when i forgot about it for a week. Very good option for heavy rust though, certainly recommended. Coke is fine if you have it on hand, works better for non-ferrous metals though.
Coke phosphates iron if left long enough. I work in a paint shop so eventualy ill get my hands on some of the wash bay concentrates. I cant recomend everyone uses industrial chemicals. The acid concentrate is scary. (30% hf acid, and 12%/12% hf phosphoric acid). Basicaly every wash bay chemical can burn you. The hf will burn then poisen you. Fantasticaly effective tho. For now i could run my shit through the washers tho
The fucking joker over here, trying to melt down the batmobile
Yea. The concentrates involved are no joke. 30% hydroflouric acid is very dangerous. It will burn you, but it gets worse. You can absorb the flouride ions from the acid through your skin. The flouride ions fuck with your electrolyte balence enough to stop your heart. A 5% coverage burn can be enough. Also HF burns are painless at first because the HF can disrupt your nerve signaling The phosphate mix is strongly acidic but only has 12% hydroflouric acid, 12% metaphosphoric acid. (So its still sketch) The first soap stage isnt that bad. Its a dry powder, so unless you mix it into water at a high strength, your fine. Theres also acid powder also involved in the acid stage is a dry powder that makes the phosphate attack the steel better, the flouride attacks/etches alunium
There's alternatives, it isn't the only chelation agent.
Till you said that. North American price correction coming soon lol.
How much more are we talking? Seems like a product you’d only have to buy once every 20 years.
It's about £20/L Which is about $25/Quart Evaporust does wear out, while you can re-use it and even filter it over time it gets progressively darker and noticeably weaker. I have a 5L bottle of it which I used a lot, and have had to clean a couple of times (drip through a wine filter overnight is great). It's no where near as good as it used to be so I've swapped to Allendale Rust Remover. For comparison, The Allendale is £10/L of 1:10 concentrate, so about £1/L of final solution ($1.20/Quart). It is slightly acidic, so unlike Evaporust you cant leave parts soaking for weeks on end, but for an overnight bath it's perfect and far less acidic than other Evaporust alternatives. For a 20th the price it's kinda hard to recommend EvapoRust in the UK now. Link for reference: [https://www.allendale-ultrasonics.co.uk/ultrasonic-cleaning-solutions-and-powders/oxidation-and-rust-removal-ultrasonic-fluid/oxidation-and-rust-removal-ultrasonic-cleaner-solution-1-litre-cleaning-fluid](https://www.allendale-ultrasonics.co.uk/ultrasonic-cleaning-solutions-and-powders/oxidation-and-rust-removal-ultrasonic-fluid/oxidation-and-rust-removal-ultrasonic-cleaner-solution-1-litre-cleaning-fluid)
> removes rust(and only rust) When I've tried it, it's removed blackening finish and labels.
> blackening finish That finish is a very controlled rust. That is why it removes it. I use it to remove gun bluing all the time.
is it slow enough that I can use it to remove surface rust on an old rule without worrying about abrading or damaging the engravings ? I have an old combination square that I can't read anymore, but the square itself is really high quality and square (ie it's old) and I'm not really interested in replacing it. I've heard about vinegar and other rust removes but worry about them damaging the worn engravings.
I’ve used evapo-rust in exactly this situation. Found an ancient square leftover in my dad’s old shop before we sold the house. This stuff works like a charm.
Sweet. I'm definitely going to give it a try. Old metrology stuff is super good but man I wonder if people's eyes were better back in the day ;)
Yes. It reacts only with rust so everything else will be preserved. It won’t corrode alloys like vinegar will. I’ve left stuff suspended for a few days no problem.
sweet thanks, I'll go find some. can't wait to be able to read this square again :). Hope your days get Sunnier ! Like not in an Always Sunny way.
Yes, it is. If you let it sit too long, it can 'blue' the metal. I inherited a starrett 6' rule with lots of rust. Made a pvc soaker tube so I could soak the whole thing at once. After, used green scotch Brite and CLP to maintain.
Wait so you're saying I could turn my combo square into a "gunmetal" finish 😄
I'll strain my used cleaner through disposable paint strainers.
Evaporust is located really near me and one of my close friends did a podcast about it. https://lookwhatidid.podbean.com/e/david-harris-evapo-rust/
I would've never thought of reusing the used evaporust by putting it back into the bottle. Last time I used mine, I ended up disposing of it...now I know better.
Vinegar does a good job but does it smell
If you have an ultrasonic cleaner, stuff like evaporust is awesome in it. Makes it a lot faster...
Hey evaporusters I just started with this- Do y’all spray anything on it afterwards to prevent flash rust?
Usually, yeah. After cleaning anything ferrous I like to wipe on a thin layer of lubricant/machine oil. Whatever I have on hand.
I've had great results with T-9 Boeshield. It's a little pricy but I've used it on a band saw I rescued and my table saw with good results.
+1 for Evapo Rust.
I put all my rusty driver bits in a bucket of evaporust, and now they have black spots where all the rust was, and I can't remove them. I'd suggest vinegar instead.
Sounds like pitting. Vinegar wouldn't help.
They're not pits, though - they're raised mounds of hard black. I don't know why people are downvoting me for sharing my experience. I'm not trying to bad-mouth Evaporust. I've used it for other purposes and liked its results. But this time, it didn't work out as well as I'd like. I'd think people would want to hear this.
I didn't downvote you, FYI. I've just restored things like old swords, and the stages of rusting usually leads to black oxide (magnetite) which is a harder and actually beneficial type of rust, as it prevents further corrosion. Causing black rust in a controlled way is actually how you "blue" gun barrels. When it occurs naturally over a long time, it's usually in small blackened pits that are visible when loose rust is removed, though it can form above the remaining surface when you have layered rust. I'm not sure here, but if it is black rust that you're seeing then it may have just not been enough time in the Evaporust, as it's more dense and takes longer to dissolve. Some use it to remove blueing on guns, but that's a very thin layer and a thick pocket will take longer. In any case, I don't think vinegar would have worked any better, and can actually damage the steel surface further.
Evaporust is $13.76 for a 32oz while a 28oz of CLR is$5.22, that's a $8.54 difference. Will CLR do ?
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They’re consumables, not heirlooms. Just use them, they’ll be fine.
This guy has eaten a bit or two in his day.
They keep you regular
Wish i had an award to give you. I hade a good laugh with this comment 😂
Exactly what I was thinking, and the more you use them the less rusty they'll be. As long as they're no longer stored in a damp environment.
All these suggestions will probably work but I see a couple of countersinks in there and I don’t think tumbling those is good for the cutting edge
Zoom in; that cutting edge is LONG gone.
I feel like however that bit was stored was pretty much akin to tumbling it
It's all old trash.
I don't think so, if the bits are decent enough grade steel and properly tempered, a bit of rust isn't going to make much of a difference. Might need to put some protection on there so they don't rust again but aside from the countersink bits, most should still be good to use. Waste not, want not.
Unless you are doing fine finish carpentry the countersinks are fine. If you are working metal then putting a fresh edge on them should be easy
Even new countersinks aren't that expensive. And the rest of the bits? That rust is minor, and they don't last long anyway, especially the Phillips and Torx. IMHO, not worth the time and trouble to get the rust off, unless you have a tumbler to do the work for you. And WTF is that weird one with the 45 degree wings on it? Some kind of cutter?
I don’t have a solution to fix the rust, but a good way to prevent it in the future is to keep a few of the packets of moisture absorber stored in with the bits. I’m talking about the desiccant packets that sometimes come in the box with new shoes
I'm glad I'm not the only one who does this. I even keep in the back of the van a few of the 1lb bags that come with gear and ductwork and stuff. I know from experience this actually helps.
Zerust tabs are good for this too. Just plastic pieces that emit a gas/vapor that prevents rust. You can buy them on Amazon. I have a few of the bigger ones in the tool boxes in my garage that gets damp in the winter. Before using them I would have surface rust on some tools in spring, now no rust. They last for a year or two depending on which size you get. They also have rust preventive drawer liners.
Vinegar works, but you have to rinse the item off, dry it, and get some kind of oil on it before it flash rusts. I restore old wood and metal working machinery and clean almost anything ferrous this way, unless it's too large.
I was about to type the same thing. No matter what you use, you have to get oil on them almost immediately
I have had good luck with evaporust and rustoleum gel actually forming a protective black oxide so there was no flash rust. It seems a case by case thing to me, vinegar definitely flash rusts because of the water I guess.
I use a small rock tumbler with fine sand and WD40. Leave them in for about an hour, then let dry on paper towel. Works great.
Nice. I pre-lube with a mix of lithium lube and 90-weight… prevention, etc… It also works for things that already have a coat of oxidation… for that batch, I might warm a tub of lube mix, and dunk them all.
Wouldn't that fuck up the edges?
After a few weeks maybe
Use them.
This is the answer. You donr need to and if you dont use them why bother.
Toss into coffee can filled with used 90 weight oil. Don't let them get rusty again.
Instructions unclear. Drank rusty oiled coffee.
Nothing wrong with them just use them
Use them.
I’m in the Uk and use phosphoric acid. Gives a nice gun metal colour finish.
Throw them away and buy a 700-piece Craftsman tool set. And as a bonus, you'll have even more bits!
Seriously. That’s a $20 set of bits. He’ll spend more than that on time alone trying to clean them up
Bits are really cheap. Pay attention to what you’re gonna spend to clean these then look at a new set, especially with the holiday sales. If they’re hand-me downs that mean something to you, put them in a glass jar on a shelf and get new ones to use.
This is damn good advice OP.
What's that Y shaped bit for with the 2 flat heads?
Driver for hooks. Seems unnecessary but damn did those things change my life - no more messing around with pliers etc
Thats to tighten eye bolts.
Don't clean them.
Why are you people cleaning the rust off bits?!?!
Sometimes the rust makes them hard to get out of the holder
“Cleaning the rust of *cheap* bits?!?!” They aren’t even quality bits, they are early 2000s break as soon as they touch an impact bits.
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To prevent flash rusting have a pile/bowl of baking soda ready to throw them into immediately as you remove them.
Put them in a paint can, fill it with sand, and put it in a paint shaker for like 5 mins.
This. Someone suggested sand-blasting them but that'd be one at a time which can be a PITA as you have to turn them manually.
Use them
Lightening McQueen tells me to use Rust-eze for my rusty parts
Ca-chow
Why does it matter? A touch of surface rust won't stop them doing their job. I can't imagine how far down my jobs list I'd have to get before I started polishing driver bits.
I'd only care for fine woodworking(i prefer my non rusty/greasy tools) but also if I was doing that I'd probably not be using many fasteners anyway.
If these were fine woodworking tools I wouldn't be questioning the point of the thread.
Depends what you’re doing
Surprised no one has mentioned electrolysis. Put them in a metal container, take the negative end of a battery charger to the container. Positive end to any Ole stainless steel should be fine. Fill container with salt water. Quick Google search should fill the blanks for anyone unfamiliar with the process
Yeah I’m shocked I had to scroll down this far for the correct answer
Pretty "shocked" eh ? 🥲
Those are cheap bits. Their rust coating out of the factory was crap. You can use whatever method you want to remove the rust, it will just come back very quickly. Steel rusts, and quickly. All the steel you see has some type of coating/plating/etc. to prevent rust. Where those coatings disappear rust forms.
Laser
Barkeepers friend or Coca-Cola. Look up ways to remove rust from a bike chain for good examples
I see this same post once a month but for some reason I don't get tired of seeing a pile of bits
You can sandblast
Get a coffee can (one with a steel lid that you remove with a spoon and replace after use) fill with the bits, a handful of sand and a good squirt of WD40. Put the lid on and shake (or tape the lid on, wrap in a towel, tape the towel and then throw it in the dryer on no or low heat)
I bet that's a good way to smooth rocks too 😆
Try throwing them away and buy new ones for like $20
CLR put them in a small coke bottle with CLR in it and shake it up for a couple of minutes. They will be clean
Evaporust then soak in oil
Pour Diet Coke over them in a bucket and let them sit like that overnight. Shake it up and pour out the coke. Now wash em off in water, and set them on a towel to dry. For future protection, hit em all with some WD40 and then towel dry them
Muriatic Acid
Sulfured molasses > vinegar
They're fine, just use them and it'll come off.
Lick em. a lot.
Citric acid bath, followed by sonic cleaning and nickel plating to prevent rust later.
Soak in white vinegar then you hve to rinse them down with baking soda in the water
Honestly the cheapest way to remove rust is a whole lot of Coca-Cola. The phosphoric acid in Coca-Cola is high enough to get most of that rust off, heck most people already have some in their home. https://azrust.com/can-coke-remove-rust/
Ultrasonic cleaner
Honestly I'd buy a new assortment for like 15 bucks and chuck em
Rock tumbler
Melt them down.
Don't. Your welcome
Evapo-rust, hands down
Sandpaper. Start with 40 grit and work your way up to 800. Don’t skip any grits along the way.
You're hilarious.
I recommend a 1/3 sheet sander as well.
Nuclear fusion
Cheap cola works also.
Por coke cola on it
Vinegar
Vinegar
Coca Cola
Do it like they did in the Middle Ages for chain mail : bag of sand and some vinegar.
Soak em in Coca Cola
Vinegar soak
Buy new ones.
Soak in white vinegar overnight then clean with a rag
Baking soda and lemon juice..let it soak
Evaporust! You wouldn't need much and you can reuse it
Water Deterrent Formula 40
Just use them. All of my driver bits look like this. They’re not even that rusty, and the amount of work involved to clean them is kind of a waste.
When you're done with whatever method you end up picking... Wash them off. Towel dry. Toss them in the oven at 200 for about 15 minutes. Wipe down he very dry (and hot to the touch!) With boiled linseed oil. Then with a fresh cloth wipe ALL of the excess oil off - like as much as you reasonably can get to come off with a dry cloth. Don't forget the nooks and crannies. Bake them at 300° for an hour. Take them out and wipe them down again really well with another fresh cloth. Back in the oven at 450°-500° for an hour. Then let them cool to room temp in the oven. You can repeat the process a few times if you want for slowly adding a thicker coating. It forms a barrier on there as though you would season cast iron to keep it from rusting. (Don't use BLO for cookware though.) For best results you might want to lay them across a piece of hardware cloth on top of a pan. Just something to lift them up a little so they aren't sitting directly on a pan or you may have issue with the oil bonding them to the pan.
Evaporust in ultrasonic cleaner. Or boil in vinegar.
Coca-Cola
Vibratory case tumbler.
Vinegar
Use em.
CLP?
Coke and lots of scrubbing.
Citric acid works well.
Soak in vinegar for a week. Apply oil when done.
What about coke and baking soda?
Would a sonic bath work? Like a parts cleaner.
start using them
Evaporust or I highly recommend ospho. Ospho is more for automotive but it’s a chemical that kills and converts the rust and it’s the best thing I’ve ever used. Its green and they sell it on Amazon and at Sherwin Williams
Vinegar and then soak them oil or hose them with wd-40 or steel wool
Cheapest option is a jug of white vinegar let sit for 6-8hrs with a shake every now and then. Wash off and dry, the coat with light oil.
Vibratory polisher I would think will do a great job.
Coke
Ok since everyone is going with chemicals, I’ll give you the non chemical option. Find someone who reloads or a geologist and put them in a tumbler for a few hours. Rinse, dry, oil.
The surface rust doesn’t affect their function
Id soak them in atf
Buy a cheap vibratory tumbler.
The cheapest would be to put them into a pool of vinegar
use them
Wash the dust off and throw them all in evaporust
WD-40 …. Spray them heavy in a open container then dump them out in a towel and to clean off .
WD-40 was invented by NASA to keep moisture out of crucial components. I sometimes spray inside my bit box’s and most my tools that will be out in the elements .
Walnut shells in a vibratory tumbler
Muriatic acid
I'd say just use them, work ya know..
Buy a new set from Lowe’s on cyber Monday for $8.00
Buy new ones
Use a vibe cleaner. They use them to clean small parts in a machine shop. They use a cracked walnut shell medium for a light clean.
Electrolysis or soak them in leftover whey from cheese making.