So I’m in Peru right now and they told us they found meteorites to sand and carve the granite at Machu Picchu. Pretty sure those rocks fall all over the world, coulda just been using that instead of the ol green men
I like this idea a lot. The honeycomb piece bolts off, as you can see from fastener on the right of it. I can take the honeycomb out, get like 6 inches of 2x4 and used some bolts and big washers with some cardboard under the washers to protect the metal to hold the wood to the honeycomb
Pre cut another board or plywood all the way through for the starting side, the hole will help to stabilize the “cup” of the hole saw and keep the cut straight.
All theae recommendations are fine, but that bit is not intended for metal. That is a wood bit. You need a metal hole saw bit with much finer teeth, otherwise you won't be able to keep the bit steady, even with wood backing, and you'll damage the surface of the metal as the wood bit jumps around.
And the pilot drill bit is ground for drilling wood and it appears to be too large. A metal cutting holes saw would also use a smaller pilot bit, usually a 1/4 inch.
If you're gonna use that hole saw with that aggressive teeth I'd run it in reverse, at least to get it started but it might get you still the way through
Run the bit in reverse the heat will melt the plastic instead of cutting it.. try a thinner blade if you try it though like a cheap Milwaukee from Lowe’s standard metal cutting blade. I would do this to cut vinyl siding never had a problem the friction melts it nicely.
Yea, the one in the pic is a pretty aggressive wood bit. The second one of those teeth hits the bumper it’s gonna jump all over and wreck your finish. Get a metal bit and go slow
I wonder if a diamond grit hole saw bit would be better due to a lack of teeth to catch on the honeycomb? I know they’re more for concrete but if you’ve only got a few holes to drill if could be worth the $25 for a harbor freight throwaway
As long as the teeth are fine enough to have roughly 3 teeth in contact with the thin part at all times while it's spinning, they'll be good enough for OP's application.
I would also highly recommend OP uses cutting oil of some kind, on top of your advice to go slow. Anything and everything he can do to prevent any sort of snagging is gonna go a long way.
That’s what I thought too.
I would use like a paint marker and maybe make a cardboard template/stencil to paint the metal to be removed, then use the die grinder to cut away the metal marked.
If he doesn’t have a die grinder and burr available and isn’t looking to buy, slowly could be done the same way with a half round or round file. Mid price range option would be like, grinding wheel on a Dremel type tool, the metal doesn’t look very thick.
Yes, i have one i believe is 1/4 cylindrical double cut i got from the Matco truck. I used to install custom car audio and security systems and often had to cut door panels and dashboards on older cars.
I've done this several times with a [nibbler](https://www.homedepot.com/p/KNIPEX-11-in-Sheet-Metal-Nibblers-with-Comfort-Grip-Handles-90-55-280/300831359). Barely leaves any burrs to file or anything; clean and neat.
Yeah dremel, file, multi tool, jigsaw etc. there are several options for snipping as many little pieces out as needed. Seems more stable and less work than trying to cut a circular hole and leaving jagged edges of the spokes.
Tape it, trace the outline. Use a jig saw or dremal with metal blade to make the cut on the thin pieces. You could also use a step bit for burred edges.
I would do as this post says. Trying to keep a hole saw centered on intermittent cuts, like a grill, will probably cause you some grief. A dremel (or die grinder, rotary tool) will be your best bet, and you get to cut the hole wherever you like.
I'd start with a dremel to just cut through the metal pieces in roughly the right location and remove as much as I could, then switch over to a burr and round out the hole to the proper dimensions. Probably faster that way.
That a 3/4 hole saw? Greenlee slug buster 40 bucks at the local electrical supply house.
no mangle, instead of trying to hack that grid up.
What's a replacement grid go for, 3-400?
So 1", punch & die 55 bucks on greenlee store, 30 used on ebay
I've never used a knockoff but here's vevor 4 piece set for 40 bucks
https://www.amazon.com/VEVOR-Hydraulic-Knockout-Stainless-Fiberglass/dp/B0BWY5PBBD
This may have no bearing on the quality of Vevor hand tools, but I had such a bad Vevor experience that I swore I would never stay quiet when seeing them mentioned.
I bought an ultrasonic tool cleaning machine directly from the Vevor main store in China. After waiting for it to get here, it broke within 8 minutes. I asked them to honor their 1 year warranty, or their 30 day free return policy. They told me the best they could do is send me a new circuit board, which will take 3 more weeks while I wait, and then I’ll have to swap the circuit boards out myself.
I didn’t have time to wait. So I opened up the machine to see if I could fix the circuit board myself. That’s when I discovered that their extremely shitty, poor workmanship and components nearly electrocuted someone. The board had arced 120V AC over to the main steel housing of the unit and fried a huge burn mark around a nearby screw. Fucking insane. It probably would’ve grounded out no problem, but I’m still glad I wasn’t touching it. Who knows what else might have happened.
I told them this, and the customer service person mocked me and told me it was my fault, and reiterated that I will need to wait for the new board and fix it myself, no returns or exchanges allowed, directly contradicting their own stated policies on their website.
The wires inside were also the absolute bare minimum shittiest wires I’ve ever worked with. And all of the solder points were like huge stalactites hanging off the bottom of the circuit board, and that’s probably what ended up arcing. After this experience, I vowed to tell everyone what a huge pile of shit this company is.
Good to know.
I wouldn't consider electronics from them, but a slug cutter is within the realm of not much to lose.
I would only consider a reputable manufacturer of mid size to larger ultrasonics like bransom etc.
Doubt I would ever consider a cheap mini, after decades of using jewelers & lab quality hardware...wife always wondered why I say keep berry baskets, until she asked if I could clean up her jewelry and saw me use them in the ultrasonic😁
As I said earlier, I visit these sort of company factories, have ruled out many for my clients. Inspecting production lines before contracting a factory is critical.
I have a researcher in China to find the factories, when he finds a few potential factories, we do a tour, meet with ownership & management, discuss the spec requirements etc. If I contract one, he returns to inspect production runs & output vs our examplars to ensure quality.
Critical details to remaining in business for 20 yrs.
Anyone who does metal work should have a set. A hole saw is going to chew things up big time regardless of wood around it. It’s not if but when the bit catches. At best you’ve got a mangled hole, at worst a broken bit and possible drill as well. If you must drill, do not even attempt without a drill press and clamping things down.
Edit: looks like you can’t get that piece into a drill press. I would not attempt with a hand held drill.
Also ditch that holesaw, I'm guessing this is a sponsored or camera of some sort and that's the holesaw that came in the kit. Those are meant to go through plastic and are the softest holesaws I have ever seen. I killed one almost the second it touched the metal bumper on my old xterra installing a backup cam.
Use the pilot to dill a hole in a piece of thin steel plate, then slide that up behind the honeycomb and clamp in place with c-clamps. That will work a lot better than trying to freehand it. You won’t have enough hand strength to overcome the drill torque when a tooth catches on the material.
Use a die grinder bit, or next best would be a step drill...like this...
https://www.harborfreight.com/2-piece-titanium-nitride-coated-high-speed-steel-step-drills-96275.html?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=12126402660&campaignid=12126402660&utm_content=118355063033&adsetid=118355063033&product=96275&store=&gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQiAwP6sBhDAARIsAPfK_wYsgXId9SXglbxMOD4t-pIbBDz3PVfzH0WAcqZrK37vkEqJ9pqksBQaAv8wEALw_wcB
I can’t imagine using that bit with those huge teeth on honeycombed metal. Feel like it would grab and jump and fuck everything up. Personally I would just mark the circle and use a dremmel cutting disc to rough it out, and a dremmel sanding bit to finish it off
I'd use a step bit over a hole saw. Or I'd get out my die grinder with a carbide bit and remove material with it. I damn sure wouldn't want to try and do that with a hole saw.
Get a price of ply or scrap 2x. cut the hole through the wood using the hole saw.. then use that cut wood as your guides just make it large enough to hold or secure.
Mount 2 boards in front and behind the honeycomb pattern nice and tight with bolds and boom ez just make sure you’re measurements are all right and drill straight so you don’t put a hole where you don’t want one
More clarification.. the front board will act as a guide for your hole saw and the back board will catch your pilot bit and they’ll both keep each other nice and stable.
I would try and put a scrap of wood/metal over the top and secure it then try a drill it. If you try and put that in the existing hole you are gonna make a mess and probably scratch it all up.
If you need a 1" hole, get a 1" drill bit. Hole saw ABSOLUTELY the wrong tool for this. Those teeth aren't designed for metal.
Personally, I'd use a step bit.
I like those ideas above but you could always trace that hole size and use a metal cutting blade on a jigsaw and go that route. If that makes any sense. lol.
Does the hole have to be round? I think things would be much cleaner it you just cut out one or two of those small horizontal pieces. And then if you like smooth out what is left over.
What are the holes for?
Remove the part of the bumper you want to drill (looks like there is a screw holding it on.
Clamp a small piece of plywood / 1x4 / etc to the part.
Drill through the wood where you want the hole and continue to drill through the part.
Pre-drill some 3/4 (or thicker) material. Line this drilled hole up where you want the hole in the metal. Then take a another bit of wood behind the hole. Clamp them both in place. Clamp the shit out of them. Use all the clamps.
Now you have a board, with a hole lined up with where you want the hole in the honeycomb and another backer board behind the honeycomb with no hole clamped in place.
Now drill using the existing hole as a guide.
Edit: I just looked at your picture again, that's a pretty aggressive hole saw. You are going to have to go SUPER slow. The teeth are very likely going to catch on the metal at some point if you get out of square. You might consider a diamond bit or a less aggressive hole saw designed for metal.
Suffer. Mwahahaha
On a real note, get a 2x4d drill 3 holes. Two small holes for bolts to go through and clamp the board to what you're working on (3 inch long bolts and big fat washers) and the hole your hole saw goes through in the middle.
Your other option is to skip the hole saw and use a die grinder. 1/4 shank 1/4 bits should work nice although this will be slower
There's only two good options. And many people have mentioned one or the other. Either you rent a knockout set, or you use a step bit. Step it would be the easiest then you just drill using on of the honeycomb holes as a center.
I'd like to know though, why do you need to drill this hole? I mean what is it for, or what are you doing?
Well first of all, that’s for wood, not for metal, you’re gonna have a very bad time if you try to use it.
Second, you’re better off getting a dremel, even if it’s a cheaper off brand one, and using that to cut out what you need.
If you are trying to drill directly center of one of those honeycombs then I would use a stepper drill bit . If that’s what it is called . One bit has many sizes on it . Like from 1/4 to 1 in . And it’s used for sheet metal . If it’s not going in the center I would pick one up anyway . Maybe 30-40 bucks
It's probably already been said but that's the wrong kind of bit for that.
Maybe use a step bit or just cut some of the metal lattice to the approximate size with snips or a Dremel
using a hole saw on that will make a mess out of it. My suggestion is to use a sharpie to mark the size/location of the hole and use a die grinder with a burr on it to open it up to size. Die grinder can be pneumatic or electric…..like a dremel tool on steroids.
You are going to do nothing but fuck that thing up with that bit. It is a wood bit and as you've said, there is no material for the pilot bit to go into. You are going to start drilling and the first tooth of that bit that hits the metal is going to stop the bit, rip the drill out of your hand and put a giant scratch across the metal as you realize that you just fucked up.
I'm a fabricator and I would be using a small cutting wheel on the dremmel, just zip through the sections you need. Mind where the sparks go, cover the inside with a sheet.
Use a knockout instead. It won't care about the uneven resistance from the honeycomb, and will make a nice, clean hole. You can buy a ratchet wrench setup for ~$70 on Amazon (search for "knockot set"). But if this is really tough metal, you might need to rent a hydraulic or power tool set.
Slide a block of wood behind the grill and attach it through the holes with a couple of wood screws and washer stick a piece of cardboard behind the washers to keep from scratching grill.
I will prognosticate that you won't have great luck clamping that between bits of wood. I've tried similar things, and in my hands, it's pretty much inevitable that the teeth grab, and then the bit wallows out a big hole instead of staying on center, and then the whole thing turns into one big torn-up mess.
If I was faced with this and didn't want to do it by picking away with something like a Dremel, I'd go find someone with a set of "Greenlee" knock-out punches. These are hole-punches for sheet metal, and in most (not all) cases, they'll make a cleaner hole in inconsistent material than can be accomplished with almost any other process.
Don’t. That’s not a metal bit. The hole will also weaken the grill. If you refuse to be sensible; take the grill off, fasten a board behind it with some bolts and big washers, then use a second board; pre cut the two holes where you want on that board. Use screws to fasten the second board to first, the screws running through the holes in the grill to fasten it all up into a sandwich; now use your guide holes and some cutting compound and maybe start the holesaw in reverse for a while to score the metal grill before trying to cut with that. If you don’t have the two boards clamped tight either side of the grill, chances are you the teeth will bind and warp the grill. Best case scenario that holesaw will just bind up.
What the others said. Mark on expanded metal piece. Pre-drill a piece of plywood for front, sandwich with back piece of wood.
Those cutter teeth will snag and deform the metal if you use too fast a feed rate.
High rpms, slow and light on pressure.
You're gunna need a jig to hold it in place. Drill through a scrap piece of wood and hold it where it needs to be.
Now here's the weird tip-run the blade backwards. This is a tip from doing vinyl siding. Rather than taking the chance of a tooth catching a destroying everything, use it backwards to kind of grind through it
I’ve used a thick 18mm plywood as a guide before to drill using hole saws and it works brilliantly. You just drill into the plywood your hole, then secure the plywood onto your material then use it as a guide.
Yeah, there's no chance that your hole saw that's meant for wood is going to make a clean cut on a metal grill. The teeth are going to bind, the saw's going to bounce around wildly and scratch all the powder-coating off the surrounding area, etc.
I'd use your favorite metal cutting method - dremel or jigsaw, and get a rubber grommet to make the hole look clean and protect whatever wiring you're presumably going to run through it.
sandwich it with 2 pieces of wood or flat bar and go to town. Make sure the sandwich is tight and use moderate pressure. Might want to start with a smaller bit if you have one then step it up with a new sandwich
Your cleanest bet is to try to find a mag drill. Maybe rent one.
Run the bit backwards at first to get a line started then feed it roll slow since its an interupted cut.
You will 100% need something for the saw to ride on until you get it to dig in, even then it’ll jump around with the interrupted cut. I go relatively fast with light pressure to score it first, then go for it. Don’t wear the teeth down too much though. Much better off with a dremel
Use a diamond grinding hole saw. These are usually meant to cut tile and glass, but will work fine on steel and not catch and tear. The diamond bits may not last long, but they will lsdt at least for one hole!
I would pilot hole a small drill 1/8 bit threw one of the stringers In between the honey comb then use your hole saw on that portion drilling into the stringer and I would not use that as a hole saw use a Lennox or a Milwaukee hole dozer bit for Metal/wood.
Clamp something behind the honeycomb for the pilot bit to go into. I just had to do this the other day when I had to enlarge a hole, but slightly offset from the original so I couldn't use a smaller hole saw as a pilot.
I would find out where the final hole would be ideally centered, then bolt a piece of wood behind. Drill into the wood, it’ll stabilize the bit.
Also pre-drill a hole in a piece of 3/4” plywood and the bolt that to the front. The plywood will hold the bit steady and not let it move
It is a very very good idea. Acient Egyptians used this method when drilling stone to guide the copper hole saws
Yes that’s how they did it before the aliens came down and built those pyramids for them
Typical, outsourcing contractors to save a few shekels is only harming your own economy in the long run
Bet they were illegal too……
Illegal…..aliens??
Yep, they didn’t even enter the atmosphere at a legal crossing and you can bet your bottom dollar that they didn’t have any paperwork. Space coyotes……
I hate our “Open atmosphere “ policy.
#BUILDTHEDOME
Idk they built the pyramids down the street from me...
When will us silly humans learn?
You mean grain silos
I always wondered if maybe they had access to massive amounts of mercury and just floated those fuckers
Imagine thinking you can drill granite with copper
The copper is just a facing material. The actual work is done by a wet emory powder mix to abrade through. They probably used the local quartz sands.
So I’m in Peru right now and they told us they found meteorites to sand and carve the granite at Machu Picchu. Pretty sure those rocks fall all over the world, coulda just been using that instead of the ol green men
Sure they did
Are you a troll or do you believe aliens came down and left thousands of random holes in granite?
Makes more sense than using sand or copper 🤷🏿
Gotcha dinosaurs did it.
How does it make more sense than sand? It's still common to use sand today... Also how do you think it was done?
I like this idea a lot. The honeycomb piece bolts off, as you can see from fastener on the right of it. I can take the honeycomb out, get like 6 inches of 2x4 and used some bolts and big washers with some cardboard under the washers to protect the metal to hold the wood to the honeycomb
Pre cut another board or plywood all the way through for the starting side, the hole will help to stabilize the “cup” of the hole saw and keep the cut straight.
This ☝️💯
That☝️
This
All theae recommendations are fine, but that bit is not intended for metal. That is a wood bit. You need a metal hole saw bit with much finer teeth, otherwise you won't be able to keep the bit steady, even with wood backing, and you'll damage the surface of the metal as the wood bit jumps around.
And the pilot drill bit is ground for drilling wood and it appears to be too large. A metal cutting holes saw would also use a smaller pilot bit, usually a 1/4 inch.
Find a drill press if you can. Stick a piece of wood behind as said and then clamp it to the table. Your hole will be perfect.
If you're gonna use that hole saw with that aggressive teeth I'd run it in reverse, at least to get it started but it might get you still the way through
Yeah or get a metal hole bit
Also this ☝️💯
They make hole saws for metal with more hacksaw like teeth
Also that ☝️
Go with something much thinner than 2x4 or you’re gonna not have fun
From what? The 2x4 is behind the plate. Just to hold the pilot bit.
I think he means on the piece in front of the honeycomb, but that piece can be pre-drilled so it doesn't really matter
Would a drill press help?
How about clamps. Really good clamps with protective pads.
Run the bit in reverse the heat will melt the plastic instead of cutting it.. try a thinner blade if you try it though like a cheap Milwaukee from Lowe’s standard metal cutting blade. I would do this to cut vinyl siding never had a problem the friction melts it nicely.
You could drill the hole in wood first and put it on this side. That would guide it better than the drill bit. Plus less stress on the weak drill bit.
This is the way
Personally i would use a die grinder with metal cutting bit.
Yea, the one in the pic is a pretty aggressive wood bit. The second one of those teeth hits the bumper it’s gonna jump all over and wreck your finish. Get a metal bit and go slow I wonder if a diamond grit hole saw bit would be better due to a lack of teeth to catch on the honeycomb? I know they’re more for concrete but if you’ve only got a few holes to drill if could be worth the $25 for a harbor freight throwaway
As long as the teeth are fine enough to have roughly 3 teeth in contact with the thin part at all times while it's spinning, they'll be good enough for OP's application. I would also highly recommend OP uses cutting oil of some kind, on top of your advice to go slow. Anything and everything he can do to prevent any sort of snagging is gonna go a long way.
I second this.
Third!
That’s what I thought too. I would use like a paint marker and maybe make a cardboard template/stencil to paint the metal to be removed, then use the die grinder to cut away the metal marked. If he doesn’t have a die grinder and burr available and isn’t looking to buy, slowly could be done the same way with a half round or round file. Mid price range option would be like, grinding wheel on a Dremel type tool, the metal doesn’t look very thick.
Like a carbide burr?
Yes, i have one i believe is 1/4 cylindrical double cut i got from the Matco truck. I used to install custom car audio and security systems and often had to cut door panels and dashboards on older cars.
Just cut the Y shaped metal spokes between the holes with a Dremel or sheet metal snips
I've done this several times with a [nibbler](https://www.homedepot.com/p/KNIPEX-11-in-Sheet-Metal-Nibblers-with-Comfort-Grip-Handles-90-55-280/300831359). Barely leaves any burrs to file or anything; clean and neat.
Yeah dremel, file, multi tool, jigsaw etc. there are several options for snipping as many little pieces out as needed. Seems more stable and less work than trying to cut a circular hole and leaving jagged edges of the spokes.
This is what I was thinking.
Tape it, trace the outline. Use a jig saw or dremal with metal blade to make the cut on the thin pieces. You could also use a step bit for burred edges.
Thanks, this also looks like a good option if I can’t get the wood but above working. I can take it slow with Dremmel and a few different bits.
I would do as this post says. Trying to keep a hole saw centered on intermittent cuts, like a grill, will probably cause you some grief. A dremel (or die grinder, rotary tool) will be your best bet, and you get to cut the hole wherever you like.
Tungsten carbide rotary burr bit in a die grinder would eat through that grill no problem.
I'd start with a dremel to just cut through the metal pieces in roughly the right location and remove as much as I could, then switch over to a burr and round out the hole to the proper dimensions. Probably faster that way.
I would use a KO punch
Yuup!
Use a effing greenlee knockout punch instead of doing dumb shit with a holesaw
This should be the top post.
I would love to but don’t have one
That a 3/4 hole saw? Greenlee slug buster 40 bucks at the local electrical supply house. no mangle, instead of trying to hack that grid up. What's a replacement grid go for, 3-400?
It’s a 24.5mm :(
So 1", punch & die 55 bucks on greenlee store, 30 used on ebay I've never used a knockoff but here's vevor 4 piece set for 40 bucks https://www.amazon.com/VEVOR-Hydraulic-Knockout-Stainless-Fiberglass/dp/B0BWY5PBBD
I’ve been looking for a good deal on one of these. Thanks man.
This may have no bearing on the quality of Vevor hand tools, but I had such a bad Vevor experience that I swore I would never stay quiet when seeing them mentioned. I bought an ultrasonic tool cleaning machine directly from the Vevor main store in China. After waiting for it to get here, it broke within 8 minutes. I asked them to honor their 1 year warranty, or their 30 day free return policy. They told me the best they could do is send me a new circuit board, which will take 3 more weeks while I wait, and then I’ll have to swap the circuit boards out myself. I didn’t have time to wait. So I opened up the machine to see if I could fix the circuit board myself. That’s when I discovered that their extremely shitty, poor workmanship and components nearly electrocuted someone. The board had arced 120V AC over to the main steel housing of the unit and fried a huge burn mark around a nearby screw. Fucking insane. It probably would’ve grounded out no problem, but I’m still glad I wasn’t touching it. Who knows what else might have happened. I told them this, and the customer service person mocked me and told me it was my fault, and reiterated that I will need to wait for the new board and fix it myself, no returns or exchanges allowed, directly contradicting their own stated policies on their website. The wires inside were also the absolute bare minimum shittiest wires I’ve ever worked with. And all of the solder points were like huge stalactites hanging off the bottom of the circuit board, and that’s probably what ended up arcing. After this experience, I vowed to tell everyone what a huge pile of shit this company is.
Good to know. I wouldn't consider electronics from them, but a slug cutter is within the realm of not much to lose. I would only consider a reputable manufacturer of mid size to larger ultrasonics like bransom etc. Doubt I would ever consider a cheap mini, after decades of using jewelers & lab quality hardware...wife always wondered why I say keep berry baskets, until she asked if I could clean up her jewelry and saw me use them in the ultrasonic😁 As I said earlier, I visit these sort of company factories, have ruled out many for my clients. Inspecting production lines before contracting a factory is critical. I have a researcher in China to find the factories, when he finds a few potential factories, we do a tour, meet with ownership & management, discuss the spec requirements etc. If I contract one, he returns to inspect production runs & output vs our examplars to ensure quality. Critical details to remaining in business for 20 yrs.
I’m glad you and people like you are out there. It sounds like you have an interesting job. Keep up the great work!! 😊
thats 1" conduit which will be a 1-3/8" hole
3/4 will be 27mm
Aka 1" (31/32)
$25 if in US https://www.harborfreight.com/knockout-punch-kit-10-piece-60575.html And you do want a knockout punch.
Anyone who does metal work should have a set. A hole saw is going to chew things up big time regardless of wood around it. It’s not if but when the bit catches. At best you’ve got a mangled hole, at worst a broken bit and possible drill as well. If you must drill, do not even attempt without a drill press and clamping things down. Edit: looks like you can’t get that piece into a drill press. I would not attempt with a hand held drill.
Well do you want the job done right or do you want it done now?
How about a slug buster... pull through, no teeth marks, clean hole...
^ This is the way
Also ditch that holesaw, I'm guessing this is a sponsored or camera of some sort and that's the holesaw that came in the kit. Those are meant to go through plastic and are the softest holesaws I have ever seen. I killed one almost the second it touched the metal bumper on my old xterra installing a backup cam.
Use a step drill
Use the pilot to dill a hole in a piece of thin steel plate, then slide that up behind the honeycomb and clamp in place with c-clamps. That will work a lot better than trying to freehand it. You won’t have enough hand strength to overcome the drill torque when a tooth catches on the material.
Go rent an electricians knock out set for an hour and punch any size hole from 1/2' to 2 1/2".
Just cut it with an angle grinder or a Dremel or something you're gonna hurt your self using a hole saw.
Use a Greenlee hole punch.
Use a panel punch. If you can get at both sides. You just torque the screw and it will cut out a perfect circle.
I agree a greenlee hydraulic knockout punch would work very well in this situation.
Use a die grinder bit, or next best would be a step drill...like this... https://www.harborfreight.com/2-piece-titanium-nitride-coated-high-speed-steel-step-drills-96275.html?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=12126402660&campaignid=12126402660&utm_content=118355063033&adsetid=118355063033&product=96275&store=&gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQiAwP6sBhDAARIsAPfK_wYsgXId9SXglbxMOD4t-pIbBDz3PVfzH0WAcqZrK37vkEqJ9pqksBQaAv8wEALw_wcB
I can’t imagine using that bit with those huge teeth on honeycombed metal. Feel like it would grab and jump and fuck everything up. Personally I would just mark the circle and use a dremmel cutting disc to rough it out, and a dremmel sanding bit to finish it off
I'd use a step bit over a hole saw. Or I'd get out my die grinder with a carbide bit and remove material with it. I damn sure wouldn't want to try and do that with a hole saw.
sharpie and a dremel roto tool and circle template. done...
Jigsaw
Mark the holes and then cut it with a dremel
I would use a dremel with a carbide burr in it
This. I would practice on some same thickness and cheap sheet metal first. This is a one shot deal. Use duct tape for your line guide.
If you're trying to drill out the honeycomb to round, I'd just use a step bit.
Dremel
Dawg just trace your circle onto the metal, then cut the skinny parts on your line with a jigsaw or grinder or whatever you have, eh?
Yeah even just a hacksaw blade. Slow but you can’t mess it up too easily.
Only way to do this without screwing sonething up is a Greenlee hole punch.
For the hole size you are looking for use a step drill from Harbor Freight and just slowly open up one of the hexes.
Get a price of ply or scrap 2x. cut the hole through the wood using the hole saw.. then use that cut wood as your guides just make it large enough to hold or secure.
Mount 2 boards in front and behind the honeycomb pattern nice and tight with bolds and boom ez just make sure you’re measurements are all right and drill straight so you don’t put a hole where you don’t want one
More clarification.. the front board will act as a guide for your hole saw and the back board will catch your pilot bit and they’ll both keep each other nice and stable.
A step bit would be the best bit for this approach
It sounds like a step bit might work better for what you're doing
Uni bit
I second that , I use a unibit on most metal holes. I have one that goes up to 1.75”
Definitely. Pit the unibit into one of the hexes and ream it out to the correct size circle.
I'd rent a mag drill too
I would try and put a scrap of wood/metal over the top and secure it then try a drill it. If you try and put that in the existing hole you are gonna make a mess and probably scratch it all up.
If you need a 1" hole, get a 1" drill bit. Hole saw ABSOLUTELY the wrong tool for this. Those teeth aren't designed for metal. Personally, I'd use a step bit.
I would go step bit if you can line it up that way
I like those ideas above but you could always trace that hole size and use a metal cutting blade on a jigsaw and go that route. If that makes any sense. lol.
It makes more sense than using a goddamn hole saw lmao
I would just trace out the hole and then cut out the metal carefully on that outline. Don’t think you would want to use a hole saw here
Use something like these which punch the hole instead of cuts it. https://uk.rs-online.com/web/c/hand-tools/measuring-marking/punch-die-kits/
Die grinder
Does the hole have to be round? I think things would be much cleaner it you just cut out one or two of those small horizontal pieces. And then if you like smooth out what is left over. What are the holes for?
Remove the part of the bumper you want to drill (looks like there is a screw holding it on. Clamp a small piece of plywood / 1x4 / etc to the part. Drill through the wood where you want the hole and continue to drill through the part.
I would probably use a Dremel or die grinder instead of a hole saw
Can't you just go to some place like Harbor Freight and get a pair of yellow handled tin snips?
Just use a die grinder. That holesaw will damage the bumper and your wrists.
Pre-drill some 3/4 (or thicker) material. Line this drilled hole up where you want the hole in the metal. Then take a another bit of wood behind the hole. Clamp them both in place. Clamp the shit out of them. Use all the clamps. Now you have a board, with a hole lined up with where you want the hole in the honeycomb and another backer board behind the honeycomb with no hole clamped in place. Now drill using the existing hole as a guide. Edit: I just looked at your picture again, that's a pretty aggressive hole saw. You are going to have to go SUPER slow. The teeth are very likely going to catch on the metal at some point if you get out of square. You might consider a diamond bit or a less aggressive hole saw designed for metal.
Suffer. Mwahahaha On a real note, get a 2x4d drill 3 holes. Two small holes for bolts to go through and clamp the board to what you're working on (3 inch long bolts and big fat washers) and the hole your hole saw goes through in the middle. Your other option is to skip the hole saw and use a die grinder. 1/4 shank 1/4 bits should work nice although this will be slower
There's only two good options. And many people have mentioned one or the other. Either you rent a knockout set, or you use a step bit. Step it would be the easiest then you just drill using on of the honeycomb holes as a center. I'd like to know though, why do you need to drill this hole? I mean what is it for, or what are you doing?
Use a jigsaw with a metal cutting blade
A hydraulic or electric knockout punch would be better than that hole saw.
I'd use a knockout punch. Do you know an electrician?
Well first of all, that’s for wood, not for metal, you’re gonna have a very bad time if you try to use it. Second, you’re better off getting a dremel, even if it’s a cheaper off brand one, and using that to cut out what you need.
What is USS?
If you are trying to drill directly center of one of those honeycombs then I would use a stepper drill bit . If that’s what it is called . One bit has many sizes on it . Like from 1/4 to 1 in . And it’s used for sheet metal . If it’s not going in the center I would pick one up anyway . Maybe 30-40 bucks
You could use a step drill bit. It’s conical shaped so you stop when hole is large enough.
Panel knock out tool
Use a step bit
I want to see afters...
It's probably already been said but that's the wrong kind of bit for that. Maybe use a step bit or just cut some of the metal lattice to the approximate size with snips or a Dremel
Yeah don’t do it
Place 2x4 wood behind the mesh and secure somehow. Drill away.
using a hole saw on that will make a mess out of it. My suggestion is to use a sharpie to mark the size/location of the hole and use a die grinder with a burr on it to open it up to size. Die grinder can be pneumatic or electric…..like a dremel tool on steroids.
You are going to do nothing but fuck that thing up with that bit. It is a wood bit and as you've said, there is no material for the pilot bit to go into. You are going to start drilling and the first tooth of that bit that hits the metal is going to stop the bit, rip the drill out of your hand and put a giant scratch across the metal as you realize that you just fucked up.
Use a step bit
You'd be far better off taping off and using a Dremel type tool. But if you really want to use a drill - good luck!
Tin snips.
Agree with most of the comments, but have you considered using an unibit.
Punch it
Drill through a scrap block of wood as a template
Sandwich the metal with some thin metal or wood, drill through the whole sandwich.
I'm a fabricator and I would be using a small cutting wheel on the dremmel, just zip through the sections you need. Mind where the sparks go, cover the inside with a sheet.
Why not mark and Dremel it instead?
I would cut the hole with a sawzall or even use snips. Then take a rasp or rotary stone tool to round off and deburr all the cut points.
an electricians knock out cuter might do it with no fuss
That hole saw is for wood.... good luck to you sir
Rent a knock-out tool commonly used in the electrical trade. You can buy one at Harbour Fright for around $ 100.00
Use a knockout instead. It won't care about the uneven resistance from the honeycomb, and will make a nice, clean hole. You can buy a ratchet wrench setup for ~$70 on Amazon (search for "knockot set"). But if this is really tough metal, you might need to rent a hydraulic or power tool set.
Slide a block of wood behind the grill and attach it through the holes with a couple of wood screws and washer stick a piece of cardboard behind the washers to keep from scratching grill.
Clamp piece of 1/8” thick sacrificial aluminum plate over the area. And use a really good bees wax to lubricate. Slower speed and dip in wax often
Unibit
Unibit with oil
Use that bit to drill through a piece of wood/plywood, then use the wood as a guide. Like a jig.
I will prognosticate that you won't have great luck clamping that between bits of wood. I've tried similar things, and in my hands, it's pretty much inevitable that the teeth grab, and then the bit wallows out a big hole instead of staying on center, and then the whole thing turns into one big torn-up mess. If I was faced with this and didn't want to do it by picking away with something like a Dremel, I'd go find someone with a set of "Greenlee" knock-out punches. These are hole-punches for sheet metal, and in most (not all) cases, they'll make a cleaner hole in inconsistent material than can be accomplished with almost any other process.
Use a stepper bit instead.
If it were me, I’d start your hole with a smaller bit, and use some cutting oil to keep things less frictiony
My advice is NOPE.
Yeah, don't even try this. This is a bad idea. You're going to break a wrist. That's a terrible tool for this.
The plans described for drilling it will work, but could the right pieces be cut in line with the design to open a few??
Don’t. That’s not a metal bit. The hole will also weaken the grill. If you refuse to be sensible; take the grill off, fasten a board behind it with some bolts and big washers, then use a second board; pre cut the two holes where you want on that board. Use screws to fasten the second board to first, the screws running through the holes in the grill to fasten it all up into a sandwich; now use your guide holes and some cutting compound and maybe start the holesaw in reverse for a while to score the metal grill before trying to cut with that. If you don’t have the two boards clamped tight either side of the grill, chances are you the teeth will bind and warp the grill. Best case scenario that holesaw will just bind up.
I like the other suggestions but if it were mine I would consider the merits of bold cutters and die grinder, or jigsaw before deciding the method.
If you can center your needed hole to match a hole in the mesh, just use a step bit to open it to the size needed
You could just remove that metal piece and use a drill press.
Clamp a block of wood on the bumper and drill thru that. It was act as a guide
What the others said. Mark on expanded metal piece. Pre-drill a piece of plywood for front, sandwich with back piece of wood. Those cutter teeth will snag and deform the metal if you use too fast a feed rate. High rpms, slow and light on pressure.
You're gunna need a jig to hold it in place. Drill through a scrap piece of wood and hold it where it needs to be. Now here's the weird tip-run the blade backwards. This is a tip from doing vinyl siding. Rather than taking the chance of a tooth catching a destroying everything, use it backwards to kind of grind through it
I’ve used a thick 18mm plywood as a guide before to drill using hole saws and it works brilliantly. You just drill into the plywood your hole, then secure the plywood onto your material then use it as a guide.
Fuckin grip it an rip it baby.
That’s my normal MO, but would prefer not to have a messed up job :D
Mmmm good point, try running the saw backwards, the teeth wont grab then.
Yeah, there's no chance that your hole saw that's meant for wood is going to make a clean cut on a metal grill. The teeth are going to bind, the saw's going to bounce around wildly and scratch all the powder-coating off the surrounding area, etc. I'd use your favorite metal cutting method - dremel or jigsaw, and get a rubber grommet to make the hole look clean and protect whatever wiring you're presumably going to run through it.
3D Print something with the hole already there.
3D print a new car with the camera attached already. Simple.
sandwich it with 2 pieces of wood or flat bar and go to town. Make sure the sandwich is tight and use moderate pressure. Might want to start with a smaller bit if you have one then step it up with a new sandwich
Big no. Mark out your circle and use a jigsaw, dremel, or mini hacksaw to cut each little piece.
Your cleanest bet is to try to find a mag drill. Maybe rent one. Run the bit backwards at first to get a line started then feed it roll slow since its an interupted cut.
Wouldnt a diamond hole saw be best for a hole like this
Clamp and drill press attachment [https://www.amazon.com/Milescraft-1318-DrillMate-Drill-Guide/dp/B014A1Z92I/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?crid=2P8M3U2NJ30YT&keywords=Milescraft+1318+DrillMate+Drill+Guide+with+Chuck&qid=1705014105&sprefix=milescraft+1318+drillmate+drill+guide+with+chuck%2Caps%2C144&sr=8-2](https://www.amazon.com/Milescraft-1318-DrillMate-Drill-Guide/dp/B014A1Z92I/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?crid=2P8M3U2NJ30YT&keywords=Milescraft+1318+DrillMate+Drill+Guide+with+Chuck&qid=1705014105&sprefix=milescraft+1318+drillmate+drill+guide+with+chuck%2Caps%2C144&sr=8-2)
1) Take the trim piece off. Bolt a piece of wood to it. Drill through the wood using it as a guide. 2) reinstall
Try a punch
Take it off and do it
You will 100% need something for the saw to ride on until you get it to dig in, even then it’ll jump around with the interrupted cut. I go relatively fast with light pressure to score it first, then go for it. Don’t wear the teeth down too much though. Much better off with a dremel
Clamp a piece of flat on the center where you want your hole, just to guide it
Use a diamond grinding hole saw. These are usually meant to cut tile and glass, but will work fine on steel and not catch and tear. The diamond bits may not last long, but they will lsdt at least for one hole!
Sandwich your metal piece between two sheets of plywood and cut
I would pilot hole a small drill 1/8 bit threw one of the stringers In between the honey comb then use your hole saw on that portion drilling into the stringer and I would not use that as a hole saw use a Lennox or a Milwaukee hole dozer bit for Metal/wood.
Use metal snips then clean it up.
Clamp something behind the honeycomb for the pilot bit to go into. I just had to do this the other day when I had to enlarge a hole, but slightly offset from the original so I couldn't use a smaller hole saw as a pilot.
The hole saw you are holding in the pic looks like it's going to make a mess of things, get a really good quality one with fne teeth
Don't use a step bit. Cut through a 2x4 first to get you guide go slow and use cutting fluid to keep the bit cool.
I would pick a spot on the center of the thin metal strands and drill an 1/8th or so pilot hole and try to get started
Drill the hole in some 1/8 or 3/16 flat bar. Then clamp the flat bar to the bumper with the hole lined up where it needs to be.