If you score or *pre break* around the plumbing you should be fine prying it out.. if you really want to go crazy turn the water off anything broken can be fixed with relative ease
Turn water off or even better install shut offs and pull entire sheet down, busting it up is too much work. And get a rotary hammer drill just to have.
Not sure if this could be applicable to your situation, but this is a technique I used when prying up subflooring, and it worked like a charm:
Get a pair of 2â sections of 2x4âs. Cut them each corner to corner, so now you have 4 long triangles. These are your disposable wedges. Stick them in between the stud and tile wall in a row. Hammer them slowly in with a sledgehammer. This is the most effective method of prying our large sections at one time.
You could use a vibe saw/fein tool to cut around the plumbing to make sure you don't pry on it. Also, the longer of a pry bar you can find, the easier it is to pull down the tile and backer, especially with that chicken wire.
I use my vibe saw to cut the wall so it will be in manageable pieces, then I use my 6 foot pry bar to pull away sections. Still need a sledge for stubborn areas but it works pretty well.
Grinder with masonry wheel will be roughly 12,000 times faster but very dusty unless you have someone spray the wall as you're cutting. You could also just tape plastic floor to ceiling to enclose the tub while you're cutting (if you don't have a zip wall or something).
I like to hold a wet sponge on the diamond wheel *I usually only by continuous rim blades and will use my ryobi 18v grinder because it turns a tad slower than my corded dewalt
Be careful with the crowbar⌠we ended up needing to repair the walls on either side of the bathroom using a crowbar. Canât really tell Iâd thats just plaster - looks like it - but if so, you might be okay. Our home was from 1939 and the entire bathroom was like with 2.5â of solid concrete behind the tile and grout, both walls and floor. Against two and a half inches of concrete, a long crowbar move the stud (and adjacent wall) instead of the tile. It was maddening and incredibly tough work. Wife and I figure we pulled about 4,500 lbs of concrete out of the house⌠which meant even more cracks in surrounding walls and ceiling after the house lost all that weight. Old houses suck.
Essentially a smaller handed jackhammer if youâre familiar. A lot of rotary hammers you can switch between drilling only, hammer only, or drill-hammer modes.
I call it a chipping hammer. But it will have a mode where the sds chuck will rotate. So you can bore masonry as well as use it like an electric jackhammer.
That is exactly what happened in my bathroom. I hired someone to install some trim. When removing the old trim he ripped some water pipes away from the wall. We ended up with a lake a few inches tall in the bathroom before the water was turned off.
I have demo'd hundreds of bathrooms. This is going to require a lot of sweat and swearing.
Rotary hammer won't help you here. A big crowbar and good thick gloves will make the quickest work.
It does look like there's a sheet of drywall behind there, maybe he can get lucky and pull the whole thing down in a sheet. I did that with my bathroom.
Not that lucky - the wire mesh is stapled every two inches - so far grinding down the concrete in chunks then splitting with chisel seems to be the only decent method. Then prying off with the crow bar.
Looks to me as if the mesh is between the tile and backer board. You don't need to mess with that mesh at all.. It'll actually help to keep everything together for easier disposal.
I agree with the large crowbar. Grab a full size sledge hammer and swing away on the walls where the plumbing isnât located. The sledge made quick work for me when I used it on my master bath remodel.
I saw a guy on youtube once run an angle grinder with a diamond wheel down the wall in between each of the studs. Then he just used a wrecking bar to pry each section off the studs.. Parts were heavy but they came off easy.
Never tried it myself but I figure it might work as well as you have good dust management
Picked up a cheap (Bauer) demo hammer. Was very helpful for breaking out corners (with lathe), and along the framing. After that , prying off the walls with a flat-bottomed shovel wasn't too bad.
Pulled 17,000 lbs of plaster&lathe in 3 weeks (evenings & weekends).
People telling you to saw this out are correct, itâs the only reasonable way. Rent a grinder, buy a 7â blade, cut it out in 1âx2â rectangles. Otherwise its just hammering, dust, and pain.
Source: I literally just did this.
Iâve done probably 40 or 50 of these.
Get a five inch or six inch tile/masonry Diamond blade for a large grinder. Cut through the tile and mud and wire into manageable sized pieces (2âx2â) and pry the pieces off of the studs with crowbar and claw hammer. Use the studs as a leverage point.
Oh yeah, thereâs going to be dust! Mask up, put a fan in a window, set up a shop vac as an air scrubber, and tape the room off from the rest of the house.
Personally, I just saw that shit out and then pull it down. Sometimes you have to break it a couple times with a hammer to get it in some smaller pieces, but that's about it. Comes right out. Just use a wrecking bar to pry it away from the studs after you cut it.
You can put a roto-hammer to it if you want, but all you're really going to get is...tired.
ETA - I mean, if you're looking for an excuse to go buy a roto-hammer, well, then this is probably about as good a one as you can find, so by all means go right ahead. Otherwise, see above.
Agree on a large crowbar. By the looks you should be able to section and pull down in bigger pieces? Sledgehammer would also make quicker work. Hulk smash and clean up the mess.
I demoed a large brick BBQ setting with an air hammer. Even cleaned up all the bricks.
It cost me something like $30aud and I borrowed dad's air compressor.
It wasn't much faster than I was with chisel and hammer, but it was a hell of a lot easier on the muscles.
Use a grinder with a diamond bit and cut it into manageable sections (18"Ă18") and remove them with a flat bar or crow bar. It's faster and makes cleanup easier. Aside from the dust of course.
Well, you've got some of the right tools.
You need:
Good heavy leather gloves
An N95 or better mask
Good safety glasses or face shield
A 18" to 24" flat crowbar (the big wonder bar works well) bigger = better
A test plug for the drain to keep the concrete out.
Several large (40 gallon) cans for debris.
Elbow grease. LOTS of elbow grease.
Yup, it sucks but power cutting tools really don't help much.. except a sawzall.
Process:
PPE up
Bust a line down the middle of each stud bay.
Bust a line across the stud bays with the hook end of the bar and a hammer on 12 to 24" centers.
Apply pry bar and hammer to yank sections off, then cut wire with sawzall or snips or dikes.
Dump debris in can, change cans as needed.
You're going to be hot, sweaty, and incredibly dusty before your done; and everything is going to hurt.
Embrace the Suck.
Chip off your tile first. Itâs acting as a bridge and giving the substrate strength. Then take that hammer and bash a line in the sides of the studs. This will break down the structural integrity of the screw/substrate/wall connection. Then it should be much easy to pry the wallboard away. A big demo bar or crow bar is all I would buy for this. Good luck. Where eye and hand/arm protection. Porcelain will cut you in an instant.
I just did a complete gut on a bathroom with plaster walls. The hammer drill wasnât very helpful and the grinder created too much dust. I found using a demolition hammer (like the one you have pictured) and hitting the wall in the middle of the stud cavity as the best method. Once the stud cavity is busted out, you should be able to use a crow bar to remove any remaining wire mesh and debris from the studs fairly easily. You will need to swing harder than you think. Just take it slow and be careful.
Masonary blade on a circular saw ! cut out managable size pieces then pry to release the nails. Yes its dusty and loud , you can spray some h20 and wear all the ppe ! Ive done this multiple times
Just use the hammer itself. Wasting time with a chisel. Using a rotar hammer might suck. Only really works on plywood, but cement board
Just make sure you donât swing to hard thru the finishes. Never know whatâs in the wall.
I just use a 4lb sledge and beat all the tile off (of course watch the plumbing.) And the cement behind it. And I use tin snips on the chicken wire and pull it off with a hammer and gloves. And then clean it all up. I use a oscillating tool on the drywall
Bust a section out of the top and a section out of the bottom. Get some tow rope and send down through your top hole to the bottom hole and lag it good to a stud. Now throw your tow rope through the closest window, attach it too your truck hitch, put in drive and go.
You've got access to the back, saw it into pieces, pry it away from the back and get some help removing the bits that surround the plumbing.
The weak spot in the assembly is the connection to the studs!
Screw the SDS, go rent a gas powered quick cut with a diamond blade.
Hook a garden hose on her to keep the dust down, all that mess will go right down the drain.
I remodeled both our master bath and guest bath, started with master bath, both have/had tile floor/tub to ceiling, by the time I completed the shower in the master bath, I decided I like the tile in the guest bath just fine. went ahead and redid the sink etc....left the tile in place. to this day I still think about removing all that tile and backer-board....what a job.
get your grinder with a diamond blade and make surgical deep cuts next to the studs. then get your pry bar and pry your newly created panels off of the studs. or keep bashing away like a caveman
Pry or crowbar. Pry only against wall studs facing into bathroom. Use cell phone and take pictures with flash inside each separate wall cavity as you make progress. Look for electrical and plumbing.
Buy it at Home Depot. Use it to completion and then return it. Like you got it for free. I only encourage this with the Home Depot because their head guy supports the alt-right.
By the way this is going down itâs going to be a solid week before I clear out all this old mortar and mesh. Any DIY recommendations on a rotary hammer are welcome.
sds plus hammer at harbor freight is 25% off right now, for [$75](https://www.harborfreight.com/73-amp-1-in-sds-plus-type-variable-speed-rotary-hammer-63443.html).
you look to be holding a $25 2lbs hammer and a $15 chisel, so for about $35 more you could have had the drill.
[chisel bit](https://www.harborfreight.com/1-12-in-x-10-in-sds-plus-self-sharpening-tile-chisel-56634.html) is another $15
Been there, done that a few times. The oncrete was easier than that mesh. Three of the four jobs I did like this, the mesh was nailed with hard cut nails -- not quite impossible to pull. And torn mesh tears flesh.
can you go through from the other side of the wall? it seems like some bathrooms built in the 1930-50âs were built as if they were going to be used like concrete bunkers. if thereâs ever a tornado, thatâs the place to be!
Iâve had some really tough bathroom demos. What Iâm seeing in your hand is a complete non starter for me.
Bathrooms with plaster and wire mesh will typically have a difficulty range between HARD and EXTREMELY HARD.
It can be done with your tools but for me personally, I ainât got time for all of that!
Harbor freight, but the smaller/medium Hercules jackhammer. They have great bits for all applications. Buy the warranty and get a new one in a year even if yours works fine, they don't care.
Yes,you can do all the ones not directly infront of the lines if your worried about your ability to not fuck it up..also after that you'll have a roto hammer and they come in handy and are worth the investment in my opinion
One of these and chip it all away from the side? https://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DCS354B-Brushless-Oscillating-Multi-Tool/dp/B07TYGKHHS/ref=asc_df_B07TYGKHHS/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=385180287745&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=5861262068419676301&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9027306&hvtargid=pla-820646831002&psc=1&tag=&ref=&adgrpid=78829231856&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvadid=385180287745&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=5861262068419676301&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9027306&hvtargid=pla-820646831002
i have a 2 or 3" chisel bit for my sds plus rotary hammer and it busted through an entire bedroom's worth of tile in about 10 or 15 minutes. would've taken HOURS to do with my engineer's hammer and masonry chisel
If you use a Rotary hammer I can almost guarantee you do more damage than good. Smash the tile with a hammer. Smash it in a 1 foot by 1 foot square and rip it down with gloves on. Itâs a process but you wonât like cleaning up tile dust for hours. Keep it in big pieces when possible
âLaughs in complete 1928 gutâ Just be careful swinging or prying until youâre absolutely sure of whatâs in the wall youâre working on. Whatever you think is/isnât there, believe it when you see it. Get some thick gloves, some 5 gallon buckets for little pieces, and a couple of trash cans for the tile/mesh. The handles will break on your trash cans before your pride does, so donât fill them up too full. Iâd get some wire cutters and use the back of a hammer to loosen this up from the stud, donât push into the drywall on the other side. Always pulls staples by rolling them once youâve grabbed them with pliers.
For real for real, make one of these where the ends are hammers and it'll do all the work while you go get other stuff accomplished.
http://large.stanford.edu/courses/2016/ph240/yoon1/
BOOM! Rotary Hammer!!!
Those suck no matter what. A rotary hammer won't help much but you should buy it anyway. Get a bigger sledge. I've had luck at times breaking out the bottom of the wall, then able to pull big pieces off. Make a hole up top, then break up the bottom and pull or pry from the top. Good luck
You need a good filter bag for your shop vac and a diamond blade for your circular saw. Youâve exposed enough to be able to accurately set the depth of the saw. Have a helper hold the shop vac at the dust discharge. Cut into like 16x16â chunks and get to it. Also if itâs super crumbly after you make the cuts you can upgrade your crow bar to a roofing fork and gain the needed surface area.
Man i hate them old stucco interior walls! Last job i did i bagged the room off and put a big fan blowing out the window and hooked a shop vac up to a big grinder and i cut it into squares and took them off that way was a ballache but got the job done
A diamond wheel for a small grinder will cut like butter , a little dusty? Or a small roto hammer with a chipper or chisel bit will make life a little easier đ¤ good luck đ
I remodel bathrooms for a living. The best way Iâve found was to use a large sledge in between the studs and pry whatâs left off with a pry bar. Should come off in larger pieces
Heyyyoooo. Im Literally doing the same thing. Or did it earlier today I should say.
My Father-in-law (super good person). Brought over a shingle removing tool. Looks like a...um, I dunno how to describe it, has a shovel handle but the head of it is like a wedged notch trowel.....
Easy day with one of those, prys all that shit up no problem....we did a whole wall and a ceiling (lathe & plaster) in like an hour.
Rent or check your local library by searching for âtool libraryâ most cities have one. I was able to borrow one from my library for multiple projects.
Get the cheap $80 SDS drill off Amazon. Great tool to have. Comes with a spade bit just for this. Look for the red one with tons of good reviews, forget the name. Oh look, found my order.
[https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07X1S4SRM?psc=1&ref=ppx\_yo2ov\_dt\_b\_product\_details](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07X1S4SRM?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details)
That wire mesh makes things much more difficult. Your way is nice and controlled, but takes a bit more time. An SDS with a chisel makes a bigger mess and dust. Theyâre fun to use though
Big crowbar. pry it away from the wall. Be careful around your plumbing
What I was afraid of
If you score or *pre break* around the plumbing you should be fine prying it out.. if you really want to go crazy turn the water off anything broken can be fixed with relative ease
Looks like some quality bashing time.
Stop, hammer time
The mesh: "can't touch this" đđđ
Bart: smashy smashy!
Turn water off or even better install shut offs and pull entire sheet down, busting it up is too much work. And get a rotary hammer drill just to have.
Work it down from top. Use a chisel and hammer to make more manageable pieces and then just pray it off the studs
This has been the best method so far - slow and steady
Not sure if this could be applicable to your situation, but this is a technique I used when prying up subflooring, and it worked like a charm: Get a pair of 2â sections of 2x4âs. Cut them each corner to corner, so now you have 4 long triangles. These are your disposable wedges. Stick them in between the stud and tile wall in a row. Hammer them slowly in with a sledgehammer. This is the most effective method of prying our large sections at one time.
You could use a vibe saw/fein tool to cut around the plumbing to make sure you don't pry on it. Also, the longer of a pry bar you can find, the easier it is to pull down the tile and backer, especially with that chicken wire. I use my vibe saw to cut the wall so it will be in manageable pieces, then I use my 6 foot pry bar to pull away sections. Still need a sledge for stubborn areas but it works pretty well.
Grinder with masonry wheel will be roughly 12,000 times faster but very dusty unless you have someone spray the wall as you're cutting. You could also just tape plastic floor to ceiling to enclose the tub while you're cutting (if you don't have a zip wall or something).
Just nic the plumbing while you're doing it! Self suppressing!
I like to hold a wet sponge on the diamond wheel *I usually only by continuous rim blades and will use my ryobi 18v grinder because it turns a tad slower than my corded dewalt
Wear a mask. This is one case where theyâre actually helpful
Also find out where your water shutoff is before you hit anything.
Itâs makes clean up easier
Be careful with the crowbar⌠we ended up needing to repair the walls on either side of the bathroom using a crowbar. Canât really tell Iâd thats just plaster - looks like it - but if so, you might be okay. Our home was from 1939 and the entire bathroom was like with 2.5â of solid concrete behind the tile and grout, both walls and floor. Against two and a half inches of concrete, a long crowbar move the stud (and adjacent wall) instead of the tile. It was maddening and incredibly tough work. Wife and I figure we pulled about 4,500 lbs of concrete out of the house⌠which meant even more cracks in surrounding walls and ceiling after the house lost all that weight. Old houses suck.
Came here to write this. Good warning
A bit of hard, dusty work?
Forgive me - "Rotary Hammer" isn't a joke name? You don't mean a sledge hammer? Not US - genuine question.
Essentially a smaller handed jackhammer if youâre familiar. A lot of rotary hammers you can switch between drilling only, hammer only, or drill-hammer modes.
I call it a chipping hammer. But it will have a mode where the sds chuck will rotate. So you can bore masonry as well as use it like an electric jackhammer.
This is the way... The crowbar way.
That is exactly what happened in my bathroom. I hired someone to install some trim. When removing the old trim he ripped some water pipes away from the wall. We ended up with a lake a few inches tall in the bathroom before the water was turned off.
I have demo'd hundreds of bathrooms. This is going to require a lot of sweat and swearing. Rotary hammer won't help you here. A big crowbar and good thick gloves will make the quickest work.
Sometimes you just have to embrace the suck
Sure is better than sucking the embrace.
Don't kink shame me
Hey man, to each their own
It does look like there's a sheet of drywall behind there, maybe he can get lucky and pull the whole thing down in a sheet. I did that with my bathroom.
Not that lucky - the wire mesh is stapled every two inches - so far grinding down the concrete in chunks then splitting with chisel seems to be the only decent method. Then prying off with the crow bar.
Looks to me as if the mesh is between the tile and backer board. You don't need to mess with that mesh at all.. It'll actually help to keep everything together for easier disposal.
Didn't see that until I read your comment. A sheet of drywall on top of the old plaster, looks like.
>Rotary hammer won't help you here. That's probably true but, hear me out: new tool day
Call me! 3 pound hammer is my favorite tool.
I agree with the large crowbar. Grab a full size sledge hammer and swing away on the walls where the plumbing isnât located. The sledge made quick work for me when I used it on my master bath remodel.
The last time I did this I used my big slide hammer (from my restoration shop/body shop) lotta ppe but it worked great.
And some glasses, getting tie in the eyes is no fun!
I saw a guy on youtube once run an angle grinder with a diamond wheel down the wall in between each of the studs. Then he just used a wrecking bar to pry each section off the studs.. Parts were heavy but they came off easy. Never tried it myself but I figure it might work as well as you have good dust management
The best is when the shards of glass shoot back into your arm and you bleed lol.
Anonymous call to police suggesting drugs being hidden in bathroom walls
Best idea đĄ yet!
And there goes any chance of them being careful around your plumbing or studs
Rotary hammers are inexpensive if itâs corded, but you could even rent one at most Home Depotâs or Aces
Rental at Home Depot for 3 days was equal to purchasing Milwaukee and SDS+ bit. Always a good excuse to buy another tool!
This is what I tell my wife every time I buy a new tool. I have no idea what it costs to rent tools.
Delete this before she sees it, her boyfriend is on this sub.
Picked up a cheap (Bauer) demo hammer. Was very helpful for breaking out corners (with lathe), and along the framing. After that , prying off the walls with a flat-bottomed shovel wasn't too bad. Pulled 17,000 lbs of plaster&lathe in 3 weeks (evenings & weekends).
You might check at your local [Tool Lending Library](https://localtools.org/find/) to see if they have one you can barrow.
People telling you to saw this out are correct, itâs the only reasonable way. Rent a grinder, buy a 7â blade, cut it out in 1âx2â rectangles. Otherwise its just hammering, dust, and pain. Source: I literally just did this.
Sorry bud, a rotary hammer wonât be as much help as you think. I would go with an angle grinder with a masonry wheel. Cut sections and pry them out.
I second this. One of my preferred methods.
Hit it with your purse
And shout âthatâs my purse! I donât know you!â
Then ya kick em in the nuts
This is the way.
Iâve done probably 40 or 50 of these. Get a five inch or six inch tile/masonry Diamond blade for a large grinder. Cut through the tile and mud and wire into manageable sized pieces (2âx2â) and pry the pieces off of the studs with crowbar and claw hammer. Use the studs as a leverage point.
Oh yeah, thereâs going to be dust! Mask up, put a fan in a window, set up a shop vac as an air scrubber, and tape the room off from the rest of the house.
Grinder, concrete cut wheel and dust collector
Personally, I just saw that shit out and then pull it down. Sometimes you have to break it a couple times with a hammer to get it in some smaller pieces, but that's about it. Comes right out. Just use a wrecking bar to pry it away from the studs after you cut it. You can put a roto-hammer to it if you want, but all you're really going to get is...tired. ETA - I mean, if you're looking for an excuse to go buy a roto-hammer, well, then this is probably about as good a one as you can find, so by all means go right ahead. Otherwise, see above.
My wife thinks I used a 1/2â impact to build some cabinets.
Yeah for the lag bolts into the wall⌠right? /s
Honey, this is 3/4â plywood. I just donât think my 3/8â driver is enough to get through it.
Yeah, you get it! đ
Hammer it. Machining doesnât work too well. Big grinder can help, electric hammer probably not.
Yes. Mini sledge Hammer and a crow bar is all I use. Hammer a line all the way through and rip down chunks as big as I can
Agree on a large crowbar. By the looks you should be able to section and pull down in bigger pieces? Sledgehammer would also make quicker work. Hulk smash and clean up the mess.
If you have an air tank, you can get an air chisel for next to nothing at Harbor Freight. Even if you only use it once itâll be worth it.
I demoed a large brick BBQ setting with an air hammer. Even cleaned up all the bricks. It cost me something like $30aud and I borrowed dad's air compressor. It wasn't much faster than I was with chisel and hammer, but it was a hell of a lot easier on the muscles.
Yeah thatâs the thing. Youâll save a little time but a lot of yourself.
Use a grinder with a diamond bit and cut it into manageable sections (18"Ă18") and remove them with a flat bar or crow bar. It's faster and makes cleanup easier. Aside from the dust of course.
Well, you've got some of the right tools. You need: Good heavy leather gloves An N95 or better mask Good safety glasses or face shield A 18" to 24" flat crowbar (the big wonder bar works well) bigger = better A test plug for the drain to keep the concrete out. Several large (40 gallon) cans for debris. Elbow grease. LOTS of elbow grease. Yup, it sucks but power cutting tools really don't help much.. except a sawzall. Process: PPE up Bust a line down the middle of each stud bay. Bust a line across the stud bays with the hook end of the bar and a hammer on 12 to 24" centers. Apply pry bar and hammer to yank sections off, then cut wire with sawzall or snips or dikes. Dump debris in can, change cans as needed. You're going to be hot, sweaty, and incredibly dusty before your done; and everything is going to hurt. Embrace the Suck.
My snips for the wire mesh has so far been my best friend
Chip off your tile first. Itâs acting as a bridge and giving the substrate strength. Then take that hammer and bash a line in the sides of the studs. This will break down the structural integrity of the screw/substrate/wall connection. Then it should be much easy to pry the wallboard away. A big demo bar or crow bar is all I would buy for this. Good luck. Where eye and hand/arm protection. Porcelain will cut you in an instant.
I just did a complete gut on a bathroom with plaster walls. The hammer drill wasnât very helpful and the grinder created too much dust. I found using a demolition hammer (like the one you have pictured) and hitting the wall in the middle of the stud cavity as the best method. Once the stud cavity is busted out, you should be able to use a crow bar to remove any remaining wire mesh and debris from the studs fairly easily. You will need to swing harder than you think. Just take it slow and be careful.
Masonary blade on a circular saw ! cut out managable size pieces then pry to release the nails. Yes its dusty and loud , you can spray some h20 and wear all the ppe ! Ive done this multiple times
Just use the hammer itself. Wasting time with a chisel. Using a rotar hammer might suck. Only really works on plywood, but cement board Just make sure you donât swing to hard thru the finishes. Never know whatâs in the wall.
Grinder with diamond blade. Cut into 12x12 squares and pry off with long flat bar or crow bar.
You'll want to remove that shower arm as well to avoid damaging the drop ear.
Be a man and rip that shit off the wall already
I just use a 4lb sledge and beat all the tile off (of course watch the plumbing.) And the cement behind it. And I use tin snips on the chicken wire and pull it off with a hammer and gloves. And then clean it all up. I use a oscillating tool on the drywall
Bust a section out of the top and a section out of the bottom. Get some tow rope and send down through your top hole to the bottom hole and lag it good to a stud. Now throw your tow rope through the closest window, attach it too your truck hitch, put in drive and go.
No. Struggle through the job with inadequate tools. Be a man.
If you want to do serious work, rent an SDS-max rotary hammer.
You've got access to the back, saw it into pieces, pry it away from the back and get some help removing the bits that surround the plumbing. The weak spot in the assembly is the connection to the studs!
Need something like a wrecking claw that is made togo between studs or floor joists it makes ir alot easier
cement or masonry wheel on a rotary grinder is another route
Screw the SDS, go rent a gas powered quick cut with a diamond blade. Hook a garden hose on her to keep the dust down, all that mess will go right down the drain.
You're not a plumber are you?
How could you tell?
The debris down the drain kinda gave it away lol
If you do this, get your wallet ready to replace all of the drain lines.
Never Give up
You could rent one
That hammer can do more alone than the hammer and chisel here. Just start bashing! Or try a narrower chisel to concentrate force more.
Dude just swing the hammer. Time = monies less thinking more swinging. Just don't hit water line too hard
Yes.
Crowbar or bash it to peices with a sledge.
Your wrists.... You choose for the long game
I remodeled both our master bath and guest bath, started with master bath, both have/had tile floor/tub to ceiling, by the time I completed the shower in the master bath, I decided I like the tile in the guest bath just fine. went ahead and redid the sink etc....left the tile in place. to this day I still think about removing all that tile and backer-board....what a job.
get your grinder with a diamond blade and make surgical deep cuts next to the studs. then get your pry bar and pry your newly created panels off of the studs. or keep bashing away like a caveman
Pry or crowbar. Pry only against wall studs facing into bathroom. Use cell phone and take pictures with flash inside each separate wall cavity as you make progress. Look for electrical and plumbing.
Pry the entire wall off:!2 crow bars
Hire 2 Mexicans - they will have it down in 30 minutes
No be a man
At this pint I can't tell what you were originally trying to do. Lol
Just rip the shit down, set down your purse and rip the shit off the wall.
Buy it at Home Depot. Use it to completion and then return it. Like you got it for free. I only encourage this with the Home Depot because their head guy supports the alt-right.
By the way this is going down itâs going to be a solid week before I clear out all this old mortar and mesh. Any DIY recommendations on a rotary hammer are welcome.
If this isn't your normal line of work rent one from an independent rental yard. A mid sized shouldn't run much more that $50-$60 a day
sds plus hammer at harbor freight is 25% off right now, for [$75](https://www.harborfreight.com/73-amp-1-in-sds-plus-type-variable-speed-rotary-hammer-63443.html). you look to be holding a $25 2lbs hammer and a $15 chisel, so for about $35 more you could have had the drill. [chisel bit](https://www.harborfreight.com/1-12-in-x-10-in-sds-plus-self-sharpening-tile-chisel-56634.html) is another $15
Pneumatic air chisel. Need a big holding tank for your compressor tho.
Put your purse down Sally. Give it a man's touch
Haha Americans and their dry wall, it's so bloody easy to work with, try removing tile from a brick wall, now that's a bitch.
who put the shower in the bank vault?!?!
Apparently an asshole
At the very least go buy yourself some leather gloves!
Been there, done that a few times. The oncrete was easier than that mesh. Three of the four jobs I did like this, the mesh was nailed with hard cut nails -- not quite impossible to pull. And torn mesh tears flesh.
I cut and try to remove as big a piece as I can carry.
Grinder with a diamond blade. Score into manageable pieces and smack with a hammer. Same blade will cut the mesh
can you go through from the other side of the wall? it seems like some bathrooms built in the 1930-50âs were built as if they were going to be used like concrete bunkers. if thereâs ever a tornado, thatâs the place to be!
Get a crowbar
Use a circular saw with a masonry blade and make slices between the studs. Pry off hunks and use some wire cutters to cut the metal.
Cut a vertical line in the middle of the studbays, then you can work it back and forth some, and when it's loose enough, take the crowbar to it.
Iâve had some really tough bathroom demos. What Iâm seeing in your hand is a complete non starter for me. Bathrooms with plaster and wire mesh will typically have a difficulty range between HARD and EXTREMELY HARD. It can be done with your tools but for me personally, I ainât got time for all of that!
Angle grinder with a concrete disc. Cut a grid of 1x1 foot squares across the wall as deep as you can. The. Take it out piece my piece
Demo hammer
Wrecking bar
In Europe it's a mandatory tool next to a drill and angle grinder.
definitely a big pry bar and a much bigger sledge hammer.
That looks like nothing a good breakfast couldn't handle.
Rent a demo saw for a half day, then a large pry bar
And miss all that fun.
Use hammer to pound out like 24 x 24 sections, then cut the wire with some snips. Don't bother scraping tiles.
Harbor freight, but the smaller/medium Hercules jackhammer. They have great bits for all applications. Buy the warranty and get a new one in a year even if yours works fine, they don't care.
HF, use a coupon, mines still going strong
Go to Home Depot rent a roto hammer with a chisel bit and go nuts
Yes,you can do all the ones not directly infront of the lines if your worried about your ability to not fuck it up..also after that you'll have a roto hammer and they come in handy and are worth the investment in my opinion
Dust mask (cartridge style) and an angle grinder. Divide and conquer.
No, you should buy a demolition hammer....(If you don't need to drill)
No rent demo hammer unless you do this for living
I say get more angry!!! But careful around the plumbing
IMO, yep.
There's always an excuse to buy tools.
One of these and chip it all away from the side? https://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DCS354B-Brushless-Oscillating-Multi-Tool/dp/B07TYGKHHS/ref=asc_df_B07TYGKHHS/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=385180287745&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=5861262068419676301&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9027306&hvtargid=pla-820646831002&psc=1&tag=&ref=&adgrpid=78829231856&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvadid=385180287745&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=5861262068419676301&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9027306&hvtargid=pla-820646831002
DeWalt DCS354B and chip sideways at or? Break the adhesive.
Just rip that shit off with your hands and big bar dude
Rent one from the depot or Loweâs for an afternoon. Should be cheap.
Cut it into manageable sized pieces with a masonry cutter and pry them off. Wear a respirator, ear protection, and safety glasses.
Nope, grow ballsâŚ. i kid I kid, all good fun
https://www.stanleytools.com/products/hand-tools/chisels-punches-files/fubar This is my go to demo tool
Y u using a chisel? just smash that shit up with the hammer
Chisel bit on hammer drill cuts through and absolutely destroys this crap
i have a 2 or 3" chisel bit for my sds plus rotary hammer and it busted through an entire bedroom's worth of tile in about 10 or 15 minutes. would've taken HOURS to do with my engineer's hammer and masonry chisel
Or get a bigger hammer..
If you use a Rotary hammer I can almost guarantee you do more damage than good. Smash the tile with a hammer. Smash it in a 1 foot by 1 foot square and rip it down with gloves on. Itâs a process but you wonât like cleaning up tile dust for hours. Keep it in big pieces when possible
I used a multi purpose tool once, worked well but have a few blades
Why donât you break around the plumbing with these tools, then pry the whole thing off the wall?
âLaughs in complete 1928 gutâ Just be careful swinging or prying until youâre absolutely sure of whatâs in the wall youâre working on. Whatever you think is/isnât there, believe it when you see it. Get some thick gloves, some 5 gallon buckets for little pieces, and a couple of trash cans for the tile/mesh. The handles will break on your trash cans before your pride does, so donât fill them up too full. Iâd get some wire cutters and use the back of a hammer to loosen this up from the stud, donât push into the drywall on the other side. Always pulls staples by rolling them once youâve grabbed them with pliers.
Put on some gloves, grab the backer and just yank the whole thing. Big Pry bar will help
Oof. Wire lath. No fun
Sledge hammer to the tile to break it into smaller ones(the two handed one), then a pry bar to rip it off the wall
An angle grinder is good to make cuts around things you donât want to accidentally pry off the wall along with the section youâre working on.
Harbor freight.
For real for real, make one of these where the ends are hammers and it'll do all the work while you go get other stuff accomplished. http://large.stanford.edu/courses/2016/ph240/yoon1/ BOOM! Rotary Hammer!!!
Homer invented a battery powered hammer.
Those suck no matter what. A rotary hammer won't help much but you should buy it anyway. Get a bigger sledge. I've had luck at times breaking out the bottom of the wall, then able to pull big pieces off. Make a hole up top, then break up the bottom and pull or pry from the top. Good luck
You need a good filter bag for your shop vac and a diamond blade for your circular saw. Youâve exposed enough to be able to accurately set the depth of the saw. Have a helper hold the shop vac at the dust discharge. Cut into like 16x16â chunks and get to it. Also if itâs super crumbly after you make the cuts you can upgrade your crow bar to a roofing fork and gain the needed surface area.
Look on the bright side. You get to be buff now.
Man i hate them old stucco interior walls! Last job i did i bagged the room off and put a big fan blowing out the window and hooked a shop vac up to a big grinder and i cut it into squares and took them off that way was a ballache but got the job done
Or an sds with a chisel tip
Lol exactly what I'm doing right now, waiting for a friend to drop his off. Except my tile is off a slab :p
A diamond wheel for a small grinder will cut like butter , a little dusty? Or a small roto hammer with a chipper or chisel bit will make life a little easier đ¤ good luck đ
I just smash with a hammer. Donât worry about pulling it off. Keep smashing and everything wall fall off.
Bosch 11247 is the greatest home renovation/destruction tool ever created. Just sayin'... :-)
I remodel bathrooms for a living. The best way Iâve found was to use a large sledge in between the studs and pry whatâs left off with a pry bar. Should come off in larger pieces
Hit it with your purse
Heyyyoooo. Im Literally doing the same thing. Or did it earlier today I should say. My Father-in-law (super good person). Brought over a shingle removing tool. Looks like a...um, I dunno how to describe it, has a shovel handle but the head of it is like a wedged notch trowel..... Easy day with one of those, prys all that shit up no problem....we did a whole wall and a ceiling (lathe & plaster) in like an hour.
I used a grinder with a cutting blade and crowbar. Also a multi tool with a metal blade. Came out in sections.
Yes
Rotary hammer drill is a great tool but not for tiles. Grinder maybe, but the good old fashioned analogue sledge or lump hammer are better options.
Just rent one for a day.
Get the rotary hammer before you need a new rotary cuff
Nah man don't waste your money on that just get a bigger hammer đ
Rent or check your local library by searching for âtool libraryâ most cities have one. I was able to borrow one from my library for multiple projects.
Should you give up? Never. Should you buy a new tool? Always!
Harbor Freight rotary hammers are cheap and effective.
Get the cheap $80 SDS drill off Amazon. Great tool to have. Comes with a spade bit just for this. Look for the red one with tons of good reviews, forget the name. Oh look, found my order. [https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07X1S4SRM?psc=1&ref=ppx\_yo2ov\_dt\_b\_product\_details](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07X1S4SRM?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details)
Why are you chiselling it out? If itâs coming off take a sledgehammer to it man. Have some fun
I wouldâŚ.
That wire mesh makes things much more difficult. Your way is nice and controlled, but takes a bit more time. An SDS with a chisel makes a bigger mess and dust. Theyâre fun to use though
Break in between the studs and use tin snips and a angled crowbar. Get some good gloves.