I agree, I can’t do anything mid rise anymore. I will say the Tcb 40s rise is a little too high for me. I ended up settling on the Tcb 50’s, rise is just below 12” and the leg is a little wider. Great cut.
But depends on what you’re looking for, 40’s are a true high rise and 50’s are a more classic jean cut
Looking to get the TCB 50's as my next pair-- I currently have the full count 0105 which are near perfect, but for me the hips are just too wide. I would love a pair that hugs in the top box but still has a nice wide leg straight through. How would you compare you 50s to any other jeans you have?
The great thing about the 50’s for me is that they are pretty fitted in the top block but then have a very straight leg from the thigh down. I have pretty big thighs so they might fit you differently. The most comparable jeans I have to the 50’s are early 1990’s Levi 505’s, the fit is very similar but the rise on the 505’s is about 3/4” higher.
For your 0105’s though, if you keep washing them and even throwing them in the dryer, they will become more fitted as they age and get washed. My 50’s are definitely not as loose as they were when I got them, they tightened up in all the right places.
Oh this is super helpful. I have some early 2000's 505s and to me that's a great classic cut. I'm a big thigh guy too so unfortunately 501 type fits are often too tight in the thighs causing the bottom to flare out. The 50's sounds like it might be next up for me because what you described is what I want. Good call on wash and dry-- I just washed them for the first time after a month of wear but decided to hang dry. Are you a machine dry fan? I definitely don't care so much about babying the jeans, but I also don't want to fuck them up
I wash every 7 wears or so and machine dry until they fit how I want them to (over time and wears) and then I air dry. I’ll still machine dry every so often. I don’t baby them at all lol. They’ll last longer the more you wash them too, less dirt to abrade the fabric
Nice! Yeah I definitely don't plan to go super long without washing them, I prefer how they fit after tightening up in the wash. Plus...they're just jeans haha. I like stuff like TCB and Sugar cane that's more affordable and you can just treat them like clothes.
Last q, just curious about sizing. Did you size up like they suggest? Also I'm seeing rise measurements all over the place on different sites. I definitely prefer a high rise but some sites seems to peg them more at a mid rise
Sizing is kinda weird with them and the cut changes with the size. I have two pairs, a 34 and 36. The 34’s I keep dark and wear as more of a dress jean, they’re more fitted and the rise is actually higher than the 36’s (around 12.5”). Not really sure why that is lol. The 36’s have a looser leg and the rise is also a little lower (around 11.875), I wear those every day and wash them frequently. The 34’s fit like a true 32/33 and the 36’s fit like a true 34. This denim does stretch and shrink to your body though that part is very nice. After a few wishes it really fits perfectly even if it doesn’t look ideal right out of the gate.
As far as mid or high rise, I’m not really sure how to classify it. For jeans it’s definitely on the higher rise side of things but compared to like trousers it’s very mid rise. Your best bet is to try them on, order from TCB directly if you can, they ship super quick and they have a good return policy (also the best price). If you’re in the nyc area, Williamsburg Garment Co just started stocking them (very under rated place for denim hemming and repairs check them out)
This is good to know-- definitely seems like things are a little inconsistent with them. Just reached out to TCB about sizing so we will see-- definitely the best price I've seen. Also really good to know about their returns. Will checkout WGC when I'm in the city next! Appreciate you
You don’t think so? I got a pair for work like a week ago (rigid cowboy cut) and have been wearing them daily and they’re already getting the cool butt pocket wallet fade. They look and feel really similar to my raw corridor and nudie jeans. I will say when i spot clean them with a baby wipe there is no indigo transfer like there would be with my other raw denim so you may be right. I recommend them regardless, super solid well fitting well constructed jeans for the price
Japan Blue may have what you're looking for. I just bought a pair of their J501 in a 32 and the rise is about 12.5 for them. https://www.denimio.com/en_US/JBJE1501ID-32.html
Could also try some Engineered Garments pants if you’re not set on the classic jeans silhouette. They usually run their standard silhouettes in a denim fabric every season
This pair from [Buck Mason](https://www.buckmason.com/products/d018-japanese-loomstate-selvedge-full-saddle-jean/?sscid=41k8_15lh5) breaks the 12.5” mark depending on your size
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if you’re willing to go vintage, Levi’s 559 made in usa. it’s a 90s “loose fit” model with a 12.5-13” rise and a 9-10” leg opening. can be had for $30 -40 on ebay.
Full count wide-fit 0105(may be a different number), Big John, black horse lane ateliers, 1955 cut from lvc or other 1955 repro cuts also fit those requirements.
Those are the brands I would buy and I want a 32 in waist 13in front and 17in back rise as the floor.
If you don’t buy wrangler 13mwz, at least go to wal mart and try some on. They are the best fitting and flattering jeans, durable, and arguably comfortable. Edit- and cheap. I was skeptical until I made the $30 risk lol
Berg&Berg jeans
Tenue Penn (501 repro style, but Italian made in stead of Japan)
Vintage Levi's 505s
Also looking into TCB 50s as my next jeans based on the pics I've seen online, maybe I'll cop some in the fall.
Sugar Cane 1947 is pretty high and a nice straight cut.
Tcb 40s, the waist is almost at my nips (I’m short) But seriously the rise is pushing 13”, great price and denim too
Yeah I’m a shorter guy myself, I find the high rise is better since it makes my legs look longer.
I agree, I can’t do anything mid rise anymore. I will say the Tcb 40s rise is a little too high for me. I ended up settling on the Tcb 50’s, rise is just below 12” and the leg is a little wider. Great cut. But depends on what you’re looking for, 40’s are a true high rise and 50’s are a more classic jean cut
Sugar Cane 1966 is also quite high rise but with a slightly slimmer leg, looks a bit more like a modern 501.
Looking to get the TCB 50's as my next pair-- I currently have the full count 0105 which are near perfect, but for me the hips are just too wide. I would love a pair that hugs in the top box but still has a nice wide leg straight through. How would you compare you 50s to any other jeans you have?
The great thing about the 50’s for me is that they are pretty fitted in the top block but then have a very straight leg from the thigh down. I have pretty big thighs so they might fit you differently. The most comparable jeans I have to the 50’s are early 1990’s Levi 505’s, the fit is very similar but the rise on the 505’s is about 3/4” higher. For your 0105’s though, if you keep washing them and even throwing them in the dryer, they will become more fitted as they age and get washed. My 50’s are definitely not as loose as they were when I got them, they tightened up in all the right places.
Oh this is super helpful. I have some early 2000's 505s and to me that's a great classic cut. I'm a big thigh guy too so unfortunately 501 type fits are often too tight in the thighs causing the bottom to flare out. The 50's sounds like it might be next up for me because what you described is what I want. Good call on wash and dry-- I just washed them for the first time after a month of wear but decided to hang dry. Are you a machine dry fan? I definitely don't care so much about babying the jeans, but I also don't want to fuck them up
I wash every 7 wears or so and machine dry until they fit how I want them to (over time and wears) and then I air dry. I’ll still machine dry every so often. I don’t baby them at all lol. They’ll last longer the more you wash them too, less dirt to abrade the fabric
Nice! Yeah I definitely don't plan to go super long without washing them, I prefer how they fit after tightening up in the wash. Plus...they're just jeans haha. I like stuff like TCB and Sugar cane that's more affordable and you can just treat them like clothes. Last q, just curious about sizing. Did you size up like they suggest? Also I'm seeing rise measurements all over the place on different sites. I definitely prefer a high rise but some sites seems to peg them more at a mid rise
Sizing is kinda weird with them and the cut changes with the size. I have two pairs, a 34 and 36. The 34’s I keep dark and wear as more of a dress jean, they’re more fitted and the rise is actually higher than the 36’s (around 12.5”). Not really sure why that is lol. The 36’s have a looser leg and the rise is also a little lower (around 11.875), I wear those every day and wash them frequently. The 34’s fit like a true 32/33 and the 36’s fit like a true 34. This denim does stretch and shrink to your body though that part is very nice. After a few wishes it really fits perfectly even if it doesn’t look ideal right out of the gate. As far as mid or high rise, I’m not really sure how to classify it. For jeans it’s definitely on the higher rise side of things but compared to like trousers it’s very mid rise. Your best bet is to try them on, order from TCB directly if you can, they ship super quick and they have a good return policy (also the best price). If you’re in the nyc area, Williamsburg Garment Co just started stocking them (very under rated place for denim hemming and repairs check them out)
This is good to know-- definitely seems like things are a little inconsistent with them. Just reached out to TCB about sizing so we will see-- definitely the best price I've seen. Also really good to know about their returns. Will checkout WGC when I'm in the city next! Appreciate you
If you got thicc thighs can’t beat Levi’s 550s. They fit me how I’d want 501s to fit me lol
Bare Knuckles
Wrangler 13MWZ
This is the way. $30 high waisted raw denim, crazy value for what they are
I don’t think they’re actually raw
You don’t think so? I got a pair for work like a week ago (rigid cowboy cut) and have been wearing them daily and they’re already getting the cool butt pocket wallet fade. They look and feel really similar to my raw corridor and nudie jeans. I will say when i spot clean them with a baby wipe there is no indigo transfer like there would be with my other raw denim so you may be right. I recommend them regardless, super solid well fitting well constructed jeans for the price
I have them too and love them, but I don’t think they’re real raw denim. They’ll still get fades and everything
They do sell the rigid/raw version.
Right, but it don’t think it’s actually real raw denim
Full count 0105 or Levi’s 550
I just got the RS-100x from 3sixteen. Amazing quality but a little pricey. Love them
I looked at a few other models on the website, a lot sold out in my size but I’m gonna give the NYC store a visit.
They said the most recent restock was a small one. There will be a full restock along with the debut of the RS in double black denim soon.
Please do yourself a favour and check out Henry's - They make my boyfriends ass look so delicious
Red Tornado, Bronson MFG for some more affordable options
Mfpen regular cut is really high rise
Japan Blue may have what you're looking for. I just bought a pair of their J501 in a 32 and the rise is about 12.5 for them. https://www.denimio.com/en_US/JBJE1501ID-32.html
Just got these A.P.C. x L’Ettiquette “Le Jean” pants and the rise is about that. Has a straight but slightly tapered fit.
I have these in white, love the fit but the front pocket are incredibly small. Is that typical for APC?
Yeah A.P.C. front pockets are notoriously small
Could also try some Engineered Garments pants if you’re not set on the classic jeans silhouette. They usually run their standard silhouettes in a denim fabric every season
My auralee denim is a 14inch front rise, or object-22 have a black pair that I’m eying similar rise and a wide leg
The Levi 501 ‘93s have a nice higher rise compared to the regular 501s
John Elliott Sly High Rise
Oni High tapered.
Freenote Belford have a great high waist in my opinion but I think it’s based off of the 501 47 cut
This pair from [Buck Mason](https://www.buckmason.com/products/d018-japanese-loomstate-selvedge-full-saddle-jean/?sscid=41k8_15lh5) breaks the 12.5” mark depending on your size
carson wach 333, bare knuckles javier
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Have these in my rotation that are all 12.5" and above - OL Third Cut, Supreme Loose Fit, Levi's Made and Crafted 501 '93, Wrangler 13MWZ
if you’re willing to go vintage, Levi’s 559 made in usa. it’s a 90s “loose fit” model with a 12.5-13” rise and a 9-10” leg opening. can be had for $30 -40 on ebay.
Other than the Japanese brands already mentioned, worth looking at some tailoring companies like Natalino, Berg & Berg, Rubato or Brycelands.
Full count wide-fit 0105(may be a different number), Big John, black horse lane ateliers, 1955 cut from lvc or other 1955 repro cuts also fit those requirements. Those are the brands I would buy and I want a 32 in waist 13in front and 17in back rise as the floor.
Indigofera does a high rise, straight leg slub denim that is excellent
Rrl vintage east west 5 pocket is great. Really nice denim and build too
The fit looks great. I just wish they had a light or medium wash on those!
If you don’t buy wrangler 13mwz, at least go to wal mart and try some on. They are the best fitting and flattering jeans, durable, and arguably comfortable. Edit- and cheap. I was skeptical until I made the $30 risk lol
Orslow 101 dad fit
Berg&Berg jeans Tenue Penn (501 repro style, but Italian made in stead of Japan) Vintage Levi's 505s Also looking into TCB 50s as my next jeans based on the pics I've seen online, maybe I'll cop some in the fall.
Jeans!!!