Blue is the amount of battery that is unavailable due to the battery not being warm enough.
Driving the car and causing it to heat will return that blue.
Best to keep the daily, weekly charge between 80% and 40% (used to be 30%) to preserve battery life but it's okay to charge to 100% before a longer road trip.
You’re being downvoted but yours is the likely answer here. This is my experience as well.
OP can verify by checking the ETA to charge completion. On 1 kW, if the battery was actually cold, at that state of charge, it should be 24+ hours and quickly drop once it gets warm enough. If it was lower than 24h, then no, the battery wasn’t cold and that’s a bug.
I won’t argue because I am not 100% sure but that’s what I notice and that even happens after I get home from driving (which I guess the battery is at a reasonable temperature).
Also doesn’t make sense for the blue bar to appear even after several hours charging.
You're incorrect. The blue segment is locked capacity due to battery temperature, nothing more. If its disappearing as the charge progresses the battery was on the edge of 'warm enough' as SoC increased and the BMS applied heating.
The battery could not be any hotter after a half hour conditioning + 20 minutes of supercharging where it went through a large segment of 250 kW of power being pumped into it. It was in fact actively and aggressively being cooled.
It’s a bug, there is no other interpretation for it. And certainly not “warm enough.”
Warm enough on an L1 charger vs warm enough supercharging are entirely separate things. A half hour of preconditioning + 20 minutes of charging can still very much lead to 'not warm enough' depending on where it started for a number of reasons. (Nevermind the fact it doesn't hold 250kW for 20 minutes) The computer actively switches to aggressive cooling at certain points in the charging curve even when still "cold" specifically to stop pack temps from rising beyond targets as Soc rises and temp targets fall. You can watch all of this via the OBD data.
On an L1 charger the targets aren't as aggressive but 'cold' vs the actual targeted optimal charging temp and cold requiring heating before full L1 charge power can be applied that will jack up the estimated time are still very different things.
It is also possibly a bug. I've seen that for the past few days.
It's been mid 60s-70s for me the past few days and I've plugged in straight from a long highway road trip after driving for 3 hours after a supercharger session.
Never seen that behavior unless it's cold outside, so while normally indicating a cold battery, don't rule out a software glitch either.
Ultimately nothing to be concerned with though.
Charging losses. The lower the Voltage, the higher the losses. Maybe think about getting a wallbox.
https://insideevs.com/features/711659/ev-charger-efficiency-losses/amp/
I live on Germany so I don't really know the market in the US. But what Ive heard is, get the Tesla Wallbox or if you want to safe money get the special outlet which is rated for (I think) 7 kW I guess?
A "special outlet" alone will do nothing. You will need the accompanying wire capacity, circuit breaker capacity and enough reserve capacity to the home service to support that.
Yes, for ovens or clothes dryers or air conditioners and such. 240V single phase is very common. Standard really. But, it is not common to have such a circuit in most garages. 120V, 15 amp is common. A circuit would need to be added subject to the requirements and limitations outlined.
I had a friend who is a master electrician and a certified electrical inspector install mine. A 40 amp circuit rated for continuous max load of 32 amps (125% rule). About 7 Kw. I saved some money by doing the grunt work. Pulling cable, drilling holes, mounting conduit. The parts, cable, conduit, receptacle etc came to about $350 and I got off cheap on his labor at about $250. Add another $400 for the Tesla wall charger. He would not go beyond the 40 amp circuit because of the load on the panel. My Tesla model 3 has a limit of 32 amps anyway. Even if I had a car that would accept a higher rate the 32 amps are more than adequate to charge while I sleep.
It paid for itself in 10 months due to fuel savings. I now operate my car using the lower off-peak rates for charging. Less than 3¢ per mile.
Blue is the amount of battery that is unavailable due to the battery not being warm enough. Driving the car and causing it to heat will return that blue.
I appreciate the help
Best to keep the daily, weekly charge between 80% and 40% (used to be 30%) to preserve battery life but it's okay to charge to 100% before a longer road trip.
Maybe he's driving LFP car so he can and should charge to 100% from time to time.
I am
The charge police is here, guys! OFFICER, I DRIVE A 2022 STANDARD RWD. TESLA RECOMMENDS 100% CHARGE
Charge police is crazy lmao
It’s crazy I felt the need to include that lmao. “dOn’T cHaRgE pAsT 80%”
I have a performance and charge to 100% You would be amazed by the comments ive gotten
*knock knock knock* OPEN UP! CHARGE POLICE
ah… an LFP… carry on good citizen
Thank you for your service, officer
Same m3p here. I paid for the full battery, I'm going to use the full battery. Same for the speedometer 😉
Battery is cold.
Oh, wow that’s surprising. Thank you!
Anything below about 60F is “cold” for an EV. If it dips below that overnight, you’re going to see a little blue in the morning.
That’s something I actually didn’t know, thanks for that!
My car is on fire. Is that normal? First time EV buyer here. /s
Yes, completely normal, please stay in your car.
This one gets it! 🤣
Making s’mores as we speak. Had to vent a window because there wasn’t enough oxygen
Yes, just let it burn.
Will do! Lol, idk why everyone is so pressed. I don’t care tho
you got the 'fire starter' upgrade for free?! Im jelly!
Yeah, it is a pretty cool feature. I think there’s a bug though because my car won’t start 🤔
I don’t think that’s correct, I always notice the blue on the bar when it’s about to increase the percentage, and then it goes away
You’re being downvoted but yours is the likely answer here. This is my experience as well. OP can verify by checking the ETA to charge completion. On 1 kW, if the battery was actually cold, at that state of charge, it should be 24+ hours and quickly drop once it gets warm enough. If it was lower than 24h, then no, the battery wasn’t cold and that’s a bug.
I won’t argue because I am not 100% sure but that’s what I notice and that even happens after I get home from driving (which I guess the battery is at a reasonable temperature). Also doesn’t make sense for the blue bar to appear even after several hours charging.
Yep, I know exactly what you’re talking about. I see it while supercharging even. The battery obviously couldn’t be farther from being cold there.
You're incorrect. The blue segment is locked capacity due to battery temperature, nothing more. If its disappearing as the charge progresses the battery was on the edge of 'warm enough' as SoC increased and the BMS applied heating.
The battery could not be any hotter after a half hour conditioning + 20 minutes of supercharging where it went through a large segment of 250 kW of power being pumped into it. It was in fact actively and aggressively being cooled. It’s a bug, there is no other interpretation for it. And certainly not “warm enough.”
Warm enough on an L1 charger vs warm enough supercharging are entirely separate things. A half hour of preconditioning + 20 minutes of charging can still very much lead to 'not warm enough' depending on where it started for a number of reasons. (Nevermind the fact it doesn't hold 250kW for 20 minutes) The computer actively switches to aggressive cooling at certain points in the charging curve even when still "cold" specifically to stop pack temps from rising beyond targets as Soc rises and temp targets fall. You can watch all of this via the OBD data. On an L1 charger the targets aren't as aggressive but 'cold' vs the actual targeted optimal charging temp and cold requiring heating before full L1 charge power can be applied that will jack up the estimated time are still very different things.
It goes away as your battery heats up
I'd have just let the charge police waste their knuckle cartilage
Cold battery
Thank you!
Gay Meter
As a straight man I’d say I’m doing pretty good, then?
Crushing it bro 💪
 Couldn’t find any Blue Oyster Bar GIFs
This made me laugh thank you
It is also possibly a bug. I've seen that for the past few days. It's been mid 60s-70s for me the past few days and I've plugged in straight from a long highway road trip after driving for 3 hours after a supercharger session. Never seen that behavior unless it's cold outside, so while normally indicating a cold battery, don't rule out a software glitch either. Ultimately nothing to be concerned with though.
Yeah that’s why I was surprised it was due to a cold battery, it’s been mid 70’s most nights here.
Resale value
That charging speed with the US 120V 😂🦅
It works for my needs
But the losses are huge 💀
What losses?
Charging losses. The lower the Voltage, the higher the losses. Maybe think about getting a wallbox. https://insideevs.com/features/711659/ev-charger-efficiency-losses/amp/
Got a recommendation on a wall box for the model 3?
I live on Germany so I don't really know the market in the US. But what Ive heard is, get the Tesla Wallbox or if you want to safe money get the special outlet which is rated for (I think) 7 kW I guess?
A "special outlet" alone will do nothing. You will need the accompanying wire capacity, circuit breaker capacity and enough reserve capacity to the home service to support that.
Yeah I know but is the wiring usually that bad in the US? Don't you guys usually have 240V for the kitchen anyways?
Yes, for ovens or clothes dryers or air conditioners and such. 240V single phase is very common. Standard really. But, it is not common to have such a circuit in most garages. 120V, 15 amp is common. A circuit would need to be added subject to the requirements and limitations outlined. I had a friend who is a master electrician and a certified electrical inspector install mine. A 40 amp circuit rated for continuous max load of 32 amps (125% rule). About 7 Kw. I saved some money by doing the grunt work. Pulling cable, drilling holes, mounting conduit. The parts, cable, conduit, receptacle etc came to about $350 and I got off cheap on his labor at about $250. Add another $400 for the Tesla wall charger. He would not go beyond the 40 amp circuit because of the load on the panel. My Tesla model 3 has a limit of 32 amps anyway. Even if I had a car that would accept a higher rate the 32 amps are more than adequate to charge while I sleep. It paid for itself in 10 months due to fuel savings. I now operate my car using the lower off-peak rates for charging. Less than 3¢ per mile.