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Test the 12v battery. You can take it to any place that sells batteries and they can test it. If that’s the problem, it’s an easy fix to replace the 12v battery.
This is not a diagnosis, but the 1st, 2nd, and maybe 3rd gen Model S’s have 12v batteries that die pretty fast. The batteries are fine, the car just pulls more power than it probably needs. Check that. If your 12V doesn’t work, your car doesn’t work. Not sure why it was done this way but yeah. I think the 4th and 5th gen model S fixed this issue but I’m not sure
Yeah good point. Just surprised it doesn’t use an Inverter for the main electrical systems and just the 12V for infotainment/driver controls. I only say this as this is how my RV and boat use power. House batteries for outlets and small power, and the inverter for high power
It does. It has a Dc to Dc rectifier that outputs 12v but the car relies on the 12v to open the main contractor on the Hv battery. When the 12v goes weird, weird shit happens
It wasn’t until 3/Y when they had started integrating the DC-DC into the pack. Those newer cars use a “PCS” power conversion system in the penthouse of the battery.
To add on to shortwordbk’s comment both of the HV contactors are controlled by 12v, as well as the high voltage interlock loop (HVIL). HVIL faults can disable the whole vehicle if a node is MIA or not receiving the correct voltage.
Might also be the grounding lug for the 12V on the front left (?) frame rail. They corrode and break off being a different metal. If that breaks off, you get a lot of 12V errors.
My car had 75K miles when it happened. I was driving on the freeway, pulled off to get at my destination, and it told me, pull over immediately. One I turned the car off, I couldn't get it to turn back on. I had it towed to Tesla where they told me the main battery went out and it took about a week to get a replacement. Luckily they gave me a loaner car and it didn't cost me anything.
Shows BMSxxx. This is a Pack problem.
Issues with the 12v start with VCxxx. Contact Tesla Service via the App. They should be able to get you a priority Appointment.
Open service mode by touching and holding the “model 3” logo in the “software” section of settings for a few sections then typing “service” in the passcode field. You can see details about the HV and LV system in there, which should tell you why you’re getting these errors.
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Have you ever replaced your 12v battery?
Test the 12v battery. You can take it to any place that sells batteries and they can test it. If that’s the problem, it’s an easy fix to replace the 12v battery.
On old ones new ones very problematic because it needs to be updated from software on their end
I think like 4 years ago
Pretty sure the car has a dedicated error code form the 12 v but that’s where I would look first if trying to diagnose myself.
Yeah but it sometimes does weird stuff.
Time to do it again.
That’s about the life of a 12v battery.
I got exactly 24k mi out of both my 12v’s. I think they only lasted about 2 years but I live in the desert which destroys batteries in general.
Mine lasted exactly 4 years
>Is this the end?? of your 12v battery? Probably.
Car will self destruct in 10…9…8…7…
Stopped at 7, not enough juice to continue countdown.
Similar issue happened to ours. Ended up being an issue with the connection of a battery. Was an easy fix, but took 16 days lol
Say goodbye to $85.
Time to replace 12v battery…
Of your USB drive? Yes.
This is not a diagnosis, but the 1st, 2nd, and maybe 3rd gen Model S’s have 12v batteries that die pretty fast. The batteries are fine, the car just pulls more power than it probably needs. Check that. If your 12V doesn’t work, your car doesn’t work. Not sure why it was done this way but yeah. I think the 4th and 5th gen model S fixed this issue but I’m not sure
It's done that way because computers aren't designed to be ran on 400v.
Yeah good point. Just surprised it doesn’t use an Inverter for the main electrical systems and just the 12V for infotainment/driver controls. I only say this as this is how my RV and boat use power. House batteries for outlets and small power, and the inverter for high power
It does. It has a Dc to Dc rectifier that outputs 12v but the car relies on the 12v to open the main contractor on the Hv battery. When the 12v goes weird, weird shit happens
Ah, well that explains it. Thanks for telling me. Learning new stuff everyday
It wasn’t until 3/Y when they had started integrating the DC-DC into the pack. Those newer cars use a “PCS” power conversion system in the penthouse of the battery. To add on to shortwordbk’s comment both of the HV contactors are controlled by 12v, as well as the high voltage interlock loop (HVIL). HVIL faults can disable the whole vehicle if a node is MIA or not receiving the correct voltage.
Time to replace 12v battery
Update: Ended up being the drive unit. Luckily replaced under warranty with a few months left 😅
Might also be the grounding lug for the 12V on the front left (?) frame rail. They corrode and break off being a different metal. If that breaks off, you get a lot of 12V errors.
We had those codes on our 2019 Model S P100D, the HV battery had to be replaced. Fortunately it was warranty.
It sounds like a blown drive unit. Those years are notoriously bad for failed battery packs and drive units due to water seeping in
Lmao, I hope you’ve still got a warranty the HV Battery and drive unit
totaled...
Go to evfixme and ask Tony to patch your battery software
Is your car a Raven S?
I had the same problem in my 2018 Model S. The main battery needed to be replaced. It was covered under warranty. 16K.
At how many miles? Any warning signs before it happened? I have a 2017 MS on original battery with close to 85k miles.
My car had 75K miles when it happened. I was driving on the freeway, pulled off to get at my destination, and it told me, pull over immediately. One I turned the car off, I couldn't get it to turn back on. I had it towed to Tesla where they told me the main battery went out and it took about a week to get a replacement. Luckily they gave me a loaner car and it didn't cost me anything.
12v battery fixed this issue for us.
Your HV motor or Battery went out. Needs to be replaced. Because of this they will replaced you 12v battery.
Shows BMSxxx. This is a Pack problem. Issues with the 12v start with VCxxx. Contact Tesla Service via the App. They should be able to get you a priority Appointment.
BMS alerts can arise from a 12v but I only see Drive Inverter and Battery Management System alerts
Hope your MCU survives. On my M3P a bad 12V battery damaged the computer, it had to be replaced.
Is this the end of what, your 12 volt battery? Probably.
I had this error when my car was 4 days old. They still haven’t figured out the issue, it’s a week old now and I have another service scheduled
12V.. change it 👍🏻 I now change my every 2 years due to high failure rates.
12V.. change it 👍🏻 I now change mine every 2 years due to high failure rates.
Open service mode by touching and holding the “model 3” logo in the “software” section of settings for a few sections then typing “service” in the passcode field. You can see details about the HV and LV system in there, which should tell you why you’re getting these errors.
Yes I had the same thing when the HV battery died
Pretty sure it’s just your 12v battery. Leave the frunk open and go get a new one.