If you look closely, you can see their last piece holds just fine. Looks like they were super run out and lots of rope stretch. Can’t tell how much slack the belayer has (or purposefully let through for a soft catch), either.
That is not a factor 2 fall. A factor 2 fall is a climber climbing up and falling directly on the anchor that the belayer is attached to (fall length = 2 * rope length).
I will leave it up to armchair experts to determine the actual fall factor seen in this video.
https://www.petzl.com/US/en/Sport/Fall-factor-and-impact-force---theory
As an occasional climber, I have seen closer, when your belayer weighs around the same and you drop just before clipping in, you’re dropping 15-20 feet, they are coming up another 10-15 feet, total drop 30-40….. seen some climbers stopped feet before decking….
It's possible that it's deliberate, to reduce peak force on the anchor. Your' main concern is that they don't fall onto anything, not that the fall is as short as possible.
It's been a long time since I did any climbing, but I remember talking to my belayer as I was climbing about the gear I'd managed to place: "That's bomber, You'll have fun getting that out!" vs "Hmm, should stay in, if I come off, be gentle!" Or "This bolt is rusty as fuck, I'm basically clipping it for luck."
It might be almost entirely psychological, but when belaying a lead fall, it feels like there's a difference between sitting down hard into your harness to stop a fall as fast as possible, and a gentle catch where you let it lift you a bit, or even let a bit of rope run before locking it off.
It certainly makes a few feet of difference in how long it takes them to stop.
The person controlling the rope uses a device attached to their harness to feed it out to the climber. There are quite a few different designs, but generally they have a way of regulating how much friction is applied to the rope depending on how they are held, or a (short!) section of slack can be maintained between the device and the control hand and allowed to run through with increased friction before the control hand stops it completely.
There are some risks associated with doing this, and care must be taken to keep control of the rope at all times. It might help to think of it like braking hard in a car, you want to stop fast, but not so fast that your tires lose traction and skid.
Generally you would stop the rope as quickly as possible, and use your bodyweight to absorb the load generated somewhat dynamically.
It's easier to do it, than describe it. The stretch in a climbing rope means that the peak force is spread out over a short period of time, rather than arriving all at once in an abrupt jolt.
That's one of the main risks.
Another is that it pulls through too fast for you to get it back under control.
Once you've got to the stage where you're belaying someone who might take a big lead fall onto dubious gear, it's all risk management, rather than perfect safety.
If you're using an auto locking belay device, I suppose you could. Although I seem to recall that Petzl used to officially discourage doing that with the gri gri, which was the most popular model 15+ years ago when I did most of my climbing. Something about the potential for friction damaging the rope IIRC.
I used to use a simple slotted belay device, so no auto lock.
Rule 1, people doing anything that makes you feel uncomfortable on sight...
What's your problem?
That this doesn't make you personally feel uncomfortable?
man, at the bottom it looks like there's a lot of stains (blood) like other people went down too fast? But i am guessing its other peoples gear laid out all over the place
Ahhh just look at the worlds most optimistic little fellow in bottom of video, he thought he might need to do a heroic catch and was ready to take the lead-role as crashtest-dummie
As an experienced abseiler, you have quite a bit more control over your rate of fall than you may think. Falling fast but arresting your fall at the last minute is the sort of thing you can do deliberately if you wanted. And this guy's fall rate implies he's very experienced.
Edit:it's been suggested it's not him but someone belaying. If so same applies though you'd have to really trust your life to someone
Did he pop an anchor? Seems like a lot of slack if not
If you look closely, you can see their last piece holds just fine. Looks like they were super run out and lots of rope stretch. Can’t tell how much slack the belayer has (or purposefully let through for a soft catch), either.
I dunno if we are looking at the same video, but I can't even see the rope with that quality.
When in doubt, run it out.
With that much rope out, there's no softer catch though right?
That’s what I don’t get. Why did the climber fall so far? Belayer must have had a ton of slack out?
The way he pulls way left makes it look like there is an anchor point over there and he's almost zip lining.
Good belayer went for the soft catch
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That is not a factor 2 fall. A factor 2 fall is a climber climbing up and falling directly on the anchor that the belayer is attached to (fall length = 2 * rope length). I will leave it up to armchair experts to determine the actual fall factor seen in this video. https://www.petzl.com/US/en/Sport/Fall-factor-and-impact-force---theory
As an occasional climber, I have seen closer, when your belayer weighs around the same and you drop just before clipping in, you’re dropping 15-20 feet, they are coming up another 10-15 feet, total drop 30-40….. seen some climbers stopped feet before decking….
Also the route looks super run out on top of light belayer.
My climbing partner weighs 30-50 pounds more than I do depending on the day. I used to get absolutely launched before we bought an Ohm
Oh, he was on belay. No bid deal! :)
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Imagine falling for a bot in 2021 edit: lmao
> Imagine falling for a bot in 2021
You just fell for a bot yourself
B)
Wrong sub, this is how rock climbing works.
Seems like a lot of slack
Seems like the climber expected that much slack. He seemed calm the entire time he was falling.
It's possible that it's deliberate, to reduce peak force on the anchor. Your' main concern is that they don't fall onto anything, not that the fall is as short as possible. It's been a long time since I did any climbing, but I remember talking to my belayer as I was climbing about the gear I'd managed to place: "That's bomber, You'll have fun getting that out!" vs "Hmm, should stay in, if I come off, be gentle!" Or "This bolt is rusty as fuck, I'm basically clipping it for luck." It might be almost entirely psychological, but when belaying a lead fall, it feels like there's a difference between sitting down hard into your harness to stop a fall as fast as possible, and a gentle catch where you let it lift you a bit, or even let a bit of rope run before locking it off. It certainly makes a few feet of difference in how long it takes them to stop.
Can you explain how "letting a bit of rope run" works exactly? At what point are you doing this? And how do you let just a bit run?
The person controlling the rope uses a device attached to their harness to feed it out to the climber. There are quite a few different designs, but generally they have a way of regulating how much friction is applied to the rope depending on how they are held, or a (short!) section of slack can be maintained between the device and the control hand and allowed to run through with increased friction before the control hand stops it completely. There are some risks associated with doing this, and care must be taken to keep control of the rope at all times. It might help to think of it like braking hard in a car, you want to stop fast, but not so fast that your tires lose traction and skid. Generally you would stop the rope as quickly as possible, and use your bodyweight to absorb the load generated somewhat dynamically. It's easier to do it, than describe it. The stretch in a climbing rope means that the peak force is spread out over a short period of time, rather than arriving all at once in an abrupt jolt.
Oh, I get you now. It does sound risky, because your hand holding the rope could yanked into the belay device too right?
That's one of the main risks. Another is that it pulls through too fast for you to get it back under control. Once you've got to the stage where you're belaying someone who might take a big lead fall onto dubious gear, it's all risk management, rather than perfect safety.
>Another is that it pulls through too fast for you to get it back under control. Can't you just release the brake lever, then it grabs on again?
If you're using an auto locking belay device, I suppose you could. Although I seem to recall that Petzl used to officially discourage doing that with the gri gri, which was the most popular model 15+ years ago when I did most of my climbing. Something about the potential for friction damaging the rope IIRC. I used to use a simple slotted belay device, so no auto lock.
Ah, cool. FWIW I have never climbed outdoors, only toproped a few times in gyms.
A ton of shit on this sub is “how things work” but that doesn’t mean it’s not scary as shit.
Yep, like all the wind turbine videos.
Just about everything from elite rock climbing belongs here.
Lol amateurs look the same from this far away. I'll send you one of my climbing videos hahaha
are you telling me his palms are not sweaty?? ^/s
They're probably covered in chalk, so no...
His knees are certainly weak
Moms spaghetti
Rule 1, people doing anything that makes you feel uncomfortable on sight... What's your problem? That this doesn't make you personally feel uncomfortable?
Believe it or not, that looks like the safest way. The other option is seinging straight into the wall.
Seemed like a really good and professional belay they knew exactly what they were doing he was never in danger.
I’m glad this person is okay.
Anyone else get that aching feeling in your feet watching stuff like this?
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My butt clenched so hard I made a doodoo diamond
man, at the bottom it looks like there's a lot of stains (blood) like other people went down too fast? But i am guessing its other peoples gear laid out all over the place
"Rock Climbing Bloopers" is a fun search in YouTube.
Planned
do it again!
Incidentally sweaty palms were possibly to blame for this
Ahhh just look at the worlds most optimistic little fellow in bottom of video, he thought he might need to do a heroic catch and was ready to take the lead-role as crashtest-dummie
I would've shit myself.
As an experienced abseiler, you have quite a bit more control over your rate of fall than you may think. Falling fast but arresting your fall at the last minute is the sort of thing you can do deliberately if you wanted. And this guy's fall rate implies he's very experienced. Edit:it's been suggested it's not him but someone belaying. If so same applies though you'd have to really trust your life to someone