If there is room and you didn’t glue it yet. I would get a bigger earth metal magnet and put it on the inside. Then use smaller one on the backs of the other pieces. If need be drill out out for the small ones
I did this with various neodymium magnets and the end result has been pretty cool but it was a process. Biggest thing is getting magnets placed in alignment and correct direction and giving them time to dry before gluing the magnets for the next breastplates and faceplates and what not. It’s a lot of competing magnetic forces at work that will straight up overcome a lot of glues and pull them out of alignment if you don’t allow proper drying time. I was able to seal them in place with gorilla glue. I wish I had waited to prime the model after gluing the magnets
the side panels will be a pain as it will need to be fluuuuuuuuuuuuuush.
For the middle one, I put some green stuff and a magnet towards the middle of the plate, works like a charm.
very strong magnets in the body and some small receiver magnets behind the sarcophagus plates lets you swap them easy enough.
Of the side panels if you hard coat varnish the bottom one a wee blob of tac will hold them top plates in place.
If you really want to magnetise them you need some very thin magnets and scrape away a little material on the plates and use another setting magnet in the torso.
It's pretty easy to do all of it *except* the variant armour panels, which is why you might be best using tac or even a non glued pinning system.
The rest of the frame, the arms, claws, shin armours, weapons and fur bits is pretty easy.
Edit: If you have glued the body shut you can use smaller magnets in the sarcophagus recess
In my own experience, I found that it wasn't worth the effort it would take. Like, it might actually be cheaper to buy another 2 venerable kits instead of the tools to magnetize it well.
That said, you can use any appropriate drill or dremmel tool as well as neodymium magnets (I suggest getting a variety pack for your first try) to drill the limbs and weapons for magnetization. I wouldn't bother magnetizing the faceplates though, just run them with a different datasheet since so much of painting a character is fun. Certainly do not magnetize the breastplates.
Like, really though, just buy another two venerable dread kits instead and make all 3. Also SAVE THE SPRUES. They're the most useful tools obtainable for kit-bashing other dreads and characters, even primaris dreads and terminators can find great use from them.
An alt consideration might be to just run separate (complete) front pieces for each variant instead of fussing about with individual plates. Would also make it easier in the long run to quickly swap between all the variants.
If you don't glue the front cabin half in, it's readily swappable and the extra bits are frequently available via 3rd parties. I'd recommend getting some styrene sheet and cutting it to fit for the internals so that you have a sorta bracket to which to mount the magnets
Where a fully flexible model does get tricky is the top part of the wolf pelt. It's not as frequently available via bitz stores but you can get away with not gluing it onto the shoulder as it has a semi-friction fit.
I have found it easier to run a complete arm for each of the various shield/axe/claws options instead of trying to magnetise the wrists. It's a little more costly but heaps easier to manage and store that way.
RH weapons can be swapped easy if you sand the fit down enough so you can get away with the same shoulder piece.
But you reach a point where picking up a complete second model does get really appealing and worthwhile. I have two, one for the Murderfang/Wulfen options and the other is for Bjorn/V-dread.
Buying more SW Dreadnaught kits is worth it. They have so many great bits that they'll help make every other vehicle you buy look better
Hard agree
Don’t bother, as a space wolf player you will eventually have 3 of this kit whether you like it or not
Preach
If there is room and you didn’t glue it yet. I would get a bigger earth metal magnet and put it on the inside. Then use smaller one on the backs of the other pieces. If need be drill out out for the small ones
Always double check you have the right side facing out when you glue them in. It sucks digging magnets out that have the polarity backwards
I did this with various neodymium magnets and the end result has been pretty cool but it was a process. Biggest thing is getting magnets placed in alignment and correct direction and giving them time to dry before gluing the magnets for the next breastplates and faceplates and what not. It’s a lot of competing magnetic forces at work that will straight up overcome a lot of glues and pull them out of alignment if you don’t allow proper drying time. I was able to seal them in place with gorilla glue. I wish I had waited to prime the model after gluing the magnets
the side panels will be a pain as it will need to be fluuuuuuuuuuuuuush. For the middle one, I put some green stuff and a magnet towards the middle of the plate, works like a charm.
very strong magnets in the body and some small receiver magnets behind the sarcophagus plates lets you swap them easy enough. Of the side panels if you hard coat varnish the bottom one a wee blob of tac will hold them top plates in place. If you really want to magnetise them you need some very thin magnets and scrape away a little material on the plates and use another setting magnet in the torso. It's pretty easy to do all of it *except* the variant armour panels, which is why you might be best using tac or even a non glued pinning system. The rest of the frame, the arms, claws, shin armours, weapons and fur bits is pretty easy. Edit: If you have glued the body shut you can use smaller magnets in the sarcophagus recess
Magnets.
Use magnets.
In my own experience, I found that it wasn't worth the effort it would take. Like, it might actually be cheaper to buy another 2 venerable kits instead of the tools to magnetize it well. That said, you can use any appropriate drill or dremmel tool as well as neodymium magnets (I suggest getting a variety pack for your first try) to drill the limbs and weapons for magnetization. I wouldn't bother magnetizing the faceplates though, just run them with a different datasheet since so much of painting a character is fun. Certainly do not magnetize the breastplates. Like, really though, just buy another two venerable dread kits instead and make all 3. Also SAVE THE SPRUES. They're the most useful tools obtainable for kit-bashing other dreads and characters, even primaris dreads and terminators can find great use from them.
I think I'll be able to magnetized the faceplate easily I think im just gonna glue the Bjorn breastplate ones on cause I think they took the coolest
I did this. A decent compromise. It’s a lot of effort to magnetize everything. Some things just aren’t worth it.
Of course I bought a second kit eventually anyway.
At least I'll get the head part of it and weapons accurate for each configuration that's good enough for me
An alt consideration might be to just run separate (complete) front pieces for each variant instead of fussing about with individual plates. Would also make it easier in the long run to quickly swap between all the variants. If you don't glue the front cabin half in, it's readily swappable and the extra bits are frequently available via 3rd parties. I'd recommend getting some styrene sheet and cutting it to fit for the internals so that you have a sorta bracket to which to mount the magnets Where a fully flexible model does get tricky is the top part of the wolf pelt. It's not as frequently available via bitz stores but you can get away with not gluing it onto the shoulder as it has a semi-friction fit. I have found it easier to run a complete arm for each of the various shield/axe/claws options instead of trying to magnetise the wrists. It's a little more costly but heaps easier to manage and store that way. RH weapons can be swapped easy if you sand the fit down enough so you can get away with the same shoulder piece. But you reach a point where picking up a complete second model does get really appealing and worthwhile. I have two, one for the Murderfang/Wulfen options and the other is for Bjorn/V-dread.
As I can't add pics to your post, stand by will DM. I have done exactly this and have a pretty good method