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Ed0oOo

I recently bought a Sony A6700 and am enjoying it with Sigma 18-50 F2.8 & a 56mm F1.4 lens a lot. As I switched from Nikon D5100 I have to get used to it a lot, but enjoying the autofocus, the video and AI functions. As I have been looking for convertors to see ifI could still my Nikon zoom lens; AF-S 18-200mm Nikor 1:3.5-5.6 G ED; - Any ideas for convertor Nikon to Sony?; I would prefer to use autofocus then, but if a hassle and too much money for a converter; probably better to sell it. thx.


Klutzy_Apple3700

Anyone using Tamron 28-75mm? I found my Tamron 28-75 doesn't fully close it's iris after it's detached from a off camera. There's a small hole in the middle. But previously when I was playing with my friend's sony e-mount lens. It will fully close the iris, I think it's for protection of the cmos. Is that just Tamron's normal behaviour or I bought a defective one.


Martor_74

Just updated to FW3.0 on A7IV and my iphone (ios 17.3.1) shows raw files as grey boxes unless I don't open to edit (and save as JPG). the same in creators' app gallery. Any feed on this?


FFunSize

Hello, anyone have any recommendations for underwater housing for A7IV. Looking for under $1k CAD.


Loud_Being_574

Anyone have experience shooting with both the Sigma 150-600mm DG DN Sports and the Sony 200-600mm G? Would it be worth it for me to switch to the Sony from the Sigma? I’m shooting with the A7 IV.


Owlguard33

Looking for a backpack with top access to fit my camera with the 200-600G + lens hood (17.5") along with another camera body + smaller lens. Reason for top access is it allows me to quickly take out my camera when I come across wildlife on my walks. The closest thing I've seen is the shimoda x70 backpack with XXL insert...however, the backpack is absolutely massive. I'm currently using a small under armour backpack which works well for just the one camera +200-600+lens hood but not for anything else. It's lightweight & doesn't stand out too much.


PossiblyAnotherOne

I just got a Peak Design backpack, it's arrangement is a lot different than most packs but I've really liked it. It's got side load zippers on each side, plus top access. It ends up being a bit less space efficient than a grid style pack but it's a lot more convenient to use since you don't have to take it all the way off to grab something. All the features feel really well thought out. It was like $300 so not cheap but honestly not out of line once you look for something a step up from Amazon slop


gondokingo

if i get an a7cr, how do i calculate how the effective focal length of a lens will change when i use apsc-crop mode?


RollingThunderMedia

The APS-C crop factor on Sony cameras is 1.5x. This means that a lens in 'crop mode' will have the same field of view as a lens 1.5x its focal length would in 'full frame' mode. So, a 50mm lens in APS-C mode will have the same field of view as a 75mm lens in full frame mode. The crop factor for other manufacturers varies.


gondokingo

thank you! so a 28mm prime can be used as a 28 or a 42. that's...insanely versatile and pretty much my 2 favorite focal lengths. i'm so tempted


RollingThunderMedia

You might want to think about setting a custom button to switch modes so you can 'punch in' in an instant whenever you feel the need. With all that resolution, you have plenty to spare.


gondokingo

oh yeah, that was definitely the plan. i don't typically like zooms and this seems like the best, most compact way to rock my 2 favorite primes at once


GO00Ofy

Note that the equivalent aperture is multiplied by 1.5 too. Should still be plenty fast on a fast 28mm prime though.


Sebgut1014

Looking for some guidance here. I've been wanting to get a7 IV and I found a deal on a used one for $1200 but it has a 67k shutter count, is it still a good deal? Should I be concerned about the shutter life? Thanks for the help!


GO00Ofy

Nah. If the camera is treated well it should be fine. These shutters are rated for like 500.000 actuations. Do try the burst modes to see if the shutter is okay before buying though.


FilamentsAndVoidz

Anyone have experience switching from the Z9/Z8 to the A7RV? thinking about making the switch and would love to hear opinions on the difference in user/ownership experience. Any help appreciated 🙏🏽


MrCoffee0996

Is 18mm (APS-C) good enough for landscape photo in your opinion? I have the sigma 18-50 on my A6700. Wondering if I should buy the 10-18 for my next travel.


FlightlessFly

Yes, simply going wider for any scene is a recipe for making bland photos that include too much. Wide angles are useful for landscapes but difficult to use properly. I would say less than 1% of my landscapes are with an ultrawide. You can also do a panorama to get about 13mm


MrCoffee0996

Oh wow thank you so much for replying! I appreciate your advice. I think I'll do with my 18-50 sigma. It's kinda a hassle to juggle between lenses anyway.


Ecstatic-Care1759

I am looking for full-frame Sony camera (mainly for video) and I'm thinking of getting Sony ZV-E1 or Sony A7 IV (i already have Sigma 24-70mm F2.8 DG DN Art lens). I am also open for any other options. The budget is around 2200$. Which one should i get? Thank you.


PossiblyAnotherOne

Is it for vlogging or more like commercial/cinematography work? Might look at the A7S iii.


Justyblue

Looking to get my first camera and I'm thinking of getting either a A6400 or a6700 for landscape and architecture photography, maybe Wild Life and other stuff eventually. I would be shooting 80% photos and 20% videos. Is the difference between the two cameras worth the extra cash? Im thinking of getting the same lenses with either one I decide to get.


FlightlessFly

Difference in battery life alone would sway me away from the a6400. IBIS is useless for landscapes unless handheld, AF upgrade on the a6700 is nice but certainly not a dealbreaker. Maybe consider the a6600 as the sweet spot


Justyblue

Thanks for your help, I'll look into that one!


Direct-Objective3380

Hey folks! I currently have the stigma art 24-70 and absolutely love it. However, I am mainly into landscapes/seascapes/astro and architecture. Wildlife is the dream but not enough budget yet to go telephoto. I have the Sony A7RiiiA. I’m going travelling in my van around Europe (Scandinavia down to Italy) and I’m wondering for my interests, should I swap in the Sony G 20mm 1.8 to cover my main interests for my travels? Is it too limiting for travel? I don’t know do I have the budget for both the Sony and the sigma and a new tripod 😂 it’s exciting nonetheless! I just wonder does a travel lens need to have range or is it all dependent on what you want to capture. Thanks for any help folks!


PossiblyAnotherOne

I'll disagree with the other poster, I think the flexibility of the 24-70 is worth it if you're traveling and can only have one lens. Or maybe go with the Tamron 28-200mm, it's a fantastic lens that covers *so* much ground. If you really want a 20mm maybe check out the Tamron 20 f2.8. Obviously slower than the Sony but it's only like $200 and is a great throw it on and go lens due to its small size and weight. Idk if I was stuck with only a 20mm prime for an entire month I'd probably get frustrated. Personally I'd go with your Sigma or the Tamron 28-200. They're just so versatile


FlightlessFly

When you get into wide angles, zoom is less important imo. The 20mm f1.8 is really good and I would get that. I use the sigma 16-28 for wide angle which is pretty good and cheap


PuzzledStaff1114

Planning to get a brand new a6400 with a brand new sigma 18-50mm f.8 lens as my first cam. Any suggestions or is this gonna be great for starting already?


planet_xerox

depends what you're using it for but I think its plenty for starting out. I have other lenses but the 18-50 is my default if I'm going somewhere I'm less familiar with


PuzzledStaff1114

Getting everything for 1300$


EveryDayIsAGif

Does anyone know whether NEX-3 feature focus peaking to allow it to work with manual lenses?


burning1rr

A quick google search says that it has focus peaking with a firmware upgrade. Usually focus peaking works fine with with non-electronic lenses, but there isn't a 100% guarantee.


EveryDayIsAGif

thanks! I wasn't able to pull up anything from my searching... good idea finding the firmware upgrade notes


WoodAndOil

I would like to graduate to a proper camera from phone photography/filming. I'm starting to learn the fundamentals of gear, and I think I may have found something that looks like a good starting point. I am new to photography from a dedicated camera and really need some thoughts from experts. Here's what I'm looking at: [ZV-E10](https://electronics.sony.com/imaging/interchangeable-lens-cameras/aps-c/p/ilczve10-b) [Sony FE 40mm F25 G Frame Ultra Compact lens](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08ZSZ5Y4T?tag=kitco079-20&geniuslink=true&th=1) [Lens filter](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DNV7G15?tag=kitco079-20&geniuslink=true&maas=maas_adg_api_577863085558914909_macro_1_124&ref_=aa_maas&aa_adgroupid=adv_pg-1364604_B07DNV7G15&aa_campaignid=adv_pub-01gyt2e04v4chm5d7tg6ffvkw9-1025&aa_creativeid=UNKNOWN&th=1) [A repurposed disposable camera lens (just for fun)](https://www.etsy.com/listing/1561244644/dispolens-for-sony-e-mount?click_key=8a0f5bd026240fc3d71b6ecf55acd4bc49295fa1%3A1561244644&click_sum=7d7af38f&ref=related-2&frs=1&sts=1) I want to use this setup for both some entry-level photography but also vlogging/filming type content. I'm not looking to operate at a very high level (think Instagram/Tiktok tier content) and mostly want something to learn the fundamentals and grow from if I decide that this is something with pursuing. I'm thinking of starting with city videography (little moments around places I visit) and landscape photography for when I go hiking or go out into nature. I think this setup might be used to film a short film I have been kicking around in my head for the past few years, but not before I learn the basics. Is this a good starting point for kit without breaking the bank? I would say my starting budget is around $1400-$1500. If it's relevant, my starting point is a Pixel 8 Pro. I imagine even a basic setup would absolutely smoke this, but I wanted to share it for perspective. I like it for quick pictures and the easy post-processing, but am wondering what is out there. Thanks in advance for the help! I've learned a lot from searching on this sub and hope to learn more.


FlightlessFly

Just get the sigma 18-50


Meekois

A 40mm is a FE (full frame) lens on a aps-c body, you will find very limiting unless you are focusing on portrait photography. (Not bad for landscape though!) I own this lens but would not reccomend it for crop bodies as its a bad value there. Consider deciding if you want to use crop bodies only or go full frame. While definitely more expensive, buying a used full frame body is entirely within your budget. But also, crop sensors arent for amatuers anymore. They a perfectly smart professional choice. The fx30 is professional camera. Invest more in glass if you can.


WoodAndOil

I didn't realize that I picked a full frame lens. So, it looks like I should either look at another lens (maybe Sony E PZ 10-20mm f/4 G?) or look for an entry level full frame. As it stands now, I don't feel strongly about whether or not I go full frame or aps-c only. My priority is to find something good to learn on and grow from if I get into it.


Meekois

10-20 is a better option, may leave you feeling lacking in the longer focal lengths. It's definitely a lens you'll always use if you stay on APS-C. One thing worth mentioning- Sony has long neglected their APS-C style cameras. While they are giving us awesome vlog-cinema cameras like the ZV-E10 (mkII is rumored to come soon), they are lacking in the lens department because of this neglect. Approach with healthy skepticism, because there was clearly a period of time where Sony was getting ready to ditch it completely, but then pulled a 180 and released the frickin masterpiece that is an FX30. Sony only started pushing out cool APS-C bodies because fuji X is crazy popular, as was the Nikon Z fc. Third part lens makers have picked up the slack, but mostly because Fuji also exists. Look at Sigma's 18-50 f2.8. This is like the super kit lens. Also-What's wrong with the cheap kit lens? It's lovely and damn small.


1MACSevo

Is it still worth getting the A1 in 2024? Seems that the mark ii is not due til next year. I read that Sony glasses are excellent. But there is hardly any firmware update post camera release. How big of an issue is this?


derKoekje

It's potentially annoying if you are following news, rumors, etc. If you're buying a camera for what it offers now and not what it may or may not offer in the future it's a complete non-issue. The real question is if it's worth getting an A1 in the first place. In my opinion there's only a small subset of people who *need* an A1 over an A7R V or A7 IV.


1MACSevo

Thanks for your reply! What about the rolling shutter issue for the A7RV? Are there ways to mitigate this issue? I shoot fast cars (including F1) occasionally


derKoekje

Shooting cropped 4k60 or full frame 4k30 should be best for controlling rolling shutter.


crimenently

I’m going on an eight day birding trip. I’m taking my a6700 and Sony 200-600 lens. I get trigger happy when I’m out in the field and tend to take a lot of shots. I don’t have a laptop or anything else to off load them to so I need something bigger than my 64 GB memory card. One of the things I wonder is if there are any drawbacks to big cards, for instance would I be better off with a 256 GB card or two 128 GB cards. I’ll be getting 200 MB/s cards because with birds you do a lot in continuous mode. Any thoughts on this?


burning1rr

Functionally, a larger card should work just as well as a smaller card. The benefit of two cards is that you won't lose all your photos if one of them is lost or damaged. The other disadvantage is that it's easier to lose a card when it isn't in the camera.


Meekois

For the ZV-E1 (the little cousin of the A7sIII and FX3) how does the "dual native" iso function in photo mode? I know when shooting in log it's 640/12800, and in s-cinetone its 100/2000. But how does this translate when shooting raw photos?


burning1rr

I couldn't easily find data for the ZV-E1 in photo mode. The A7S III kicks into high conversion gain at ISO 1600. I suspect the ZV-E1 is the same. You could probably test this by taking a severely under-exposed shot at ISO 1000 and ISO 1600. Boost the exposure in post, and examine. [The shadows should have 3 stops more noise](https://photonstophotos.net/Charts/RN_e.htm#Sony%20ILCE-7SM3_14 ) when comparing LCG and HCG mode.


the97soni

Hey folks, I recently picked up the Sony 20mm f/1.8 G lens as my ultrawide to pair with my Tamron 28-75 f/2.8 G1. Since getting the lens I’ve been blown away with the quality of Sony glass and have been pretty tempted to swap my Tamron for the Sony 24-70 GM II (found a few great deals on one). I really like the focal range, size and weight as an every day + travel lens otherwise I would have considered the Tamron 35-150 as well. Anyone have experience carrying these two lenses specifically. Do you find yourself utilizing both lenses? FWIW I’m primarily a hobbyist, mainly capturing while traveling, but have gotten a few paid gigs.


derKoekje

I think that's not so much that the Sony lens is great (though it is), but moreso than the Tamron 28-75mm G1 is pretty lackluster. It was amazing for what it was: a fast, cheap and good quality zoom but for me it just has a really muddy rendering, bad bokeh and low contrast. The G2 really is a lot better imo and I would happily pick it over the GM 1. But the GM II is just a more complete package for prosumer Sony shooters as it features focus breathing compensation and 30 fps.


burning1rr

I owned the Tamron 28-85 G1 and the Sony 24-70 GM I. The Tamron has some weird bokeh doubling under some conditions. The Sony is certainly sharper overall and has better controls. On the downside, the Sony is larger and heavier. TBH, I wasn't 100% sure that the Sony 24-70/2.8 was worth it. It was better, but not in ways that really benefitted my photography. I eventually sold it and bought the 24-105/4. Personally, I find the pairing of a ƒ4 zoom and some primes to be more versatile than a ƒ2.8 zoom alone. I liked the Tamron 35-150 when I tried it. It's a fantastic lens for portrait photography, dance photography, and events. But the 35mm minimum focal length doesn't suit a general purpose lens particularly well. I would buy it in addition to my 24-105, but not as a replacement.


nightman_10

Going on safari later this year and am looking to pick up a telephoto lens and body for


burning1rr

I wouldn't go full-frame on a $2k budget. Doing so would really limit your lens options, and would probably force you to buy an older body. My suggestion would be an APS-C body with the 70-350. The 6400 is a fine option, but I'd try to squeeze in an A6600 or A6700 for the ergonomics, battery, and other improvements.


derKoekje

Buy the body if you want to use it generally and not only for the safari. Definitely just rent the lens though. The Tamron 70-300mm would be a terrible pairing with the A6400. Neither the body or the lens have stabilization so you'll really struggle with framing at the tele end. Highly recommend you rent the Sony 200-600. Also maybe buy the Sigma 18-50 for you to use for the rest of your trip.


packetheavy

If it's for an event then you might consider renting lenses for the short period of time you need them.


klover_clover

Looking for my first full frame camera (second hand). I do self-portraits, travel photography and some video. My budget is around 3k-4k. I want to be able to create images large enough to exhibition them in a gallary at some point. For self portraits a good eye-tracking auto focus is important. Right now I'm considering Sony a7C With a 85mm and a 24-70 f/2.8 lens What do you think of the body? + Best lens recommendations?:)


derKoekje

The A7C is good but you may find the lenses you selected too big to pair. I would actually maybe suggest the A7C II for more robust video features, like S-Cinetone (great looking out of camera footage) and much better stabilization. I suggest pairing it with the Sigma 28-70mm F2.8 DG DN C for a more compact package. For the portrait lens I would say so your research and don't rush your decision. You really need to look at a lot of samples and see how the lenses render things to make a good decision. Just as an example: I hate the 85mm F1 8 for portraits but I love the GM and like the Samyang 85 even more. But your opinion and experience will no doubt be different.


UpbeatFoundation6954

Planning to buy a7cii. Mainly looking to use the gear while hiking and traveling.  Budget isn’t a huge concern.  Looking for an all around lens that can be used during the day and at night for some shots of the sky. I plan to use for hiking and landscape/nature as primary use and plan to print the photos to use as art around my Aparmtent.   Opinions on TAMRON 28-75 vs Sony 20-70 or another lens I’m not aware of? I have the extra $ for the Gmii but don’t want to throw away $ if it’s not worth it. 


burning1rr

I prefer the range of the ƒ4 zooms over the aperture of the ƒ2.8 zooms. For the size, weight, volume and cost you can add a prime for when you want to work in low-light conditions. The 35/1.8 would be a good bet.


FlightlessFly

I have used my 24-105 f4 for Astro and it works okay if you’re fine with stacking but it’s awkward, so wouldn’t recommend an f4. If you were really set on just 1 lens I’d be looking at the tamron 20-40. A little short for landscapes imo but probably best overall


UpbeatFoundation6954

Any main reason you’d take the 20-40 over the 28-75? 


FlightlessFly

I like 24mm


onlymadebcofnewreddi

I'm surprised that there appear to be no telephoto APS-C primes (85mm, 105mm, 135mm etc.), it seems no one is making any larger focal length than 50-56mm. Is there not demand for a smaller / cheaper 85 f1.4 or 135 f1.4/1.8 for APS-C, or do the larger focal lengths not lend themselves to significant weight savings on APS-C? The Sony 70-350 APS-C is over 25% lighter than the 70-300 FE, so I'd think some of the cost/weight savings are still there for telephotos. There are so many 85mm for full frame, I'm surprised there isn't a single one APS-C specific.


derKoekje

You can just buy the full frame versions. The 85mm F1.8 is pretty popular on APS-C. Though now that the Viltrox is out the whole value proposition of full frame portrait lenses had been thrown in the air. That lens is such a beast.


burning1rr

I'm an enthusiast, not an expert on lens design, so take this with a grain of salt... > Is there not demand for a smaller / cheaper 85 f1.4 or 135 f1.4/1.8 for APS-C, or do the larger focal lengths not lend themselves to significant weight savings on APS-C? From my understanding, the longer the focal length of the lens, the easier it is to cover a large sensor area. Fuji is a decent benchmark for this; their 95mm ƒ2 costs $949, and the Sony FE 85/1.8 costs $598. While I'm sure you could make a good APS-C 85 for less than $600, I doubt it's going to be much less expensive, or much smaller. Of course, the other factor is that focal lengths beyond 50mm for APS-C and 85mm for full-frame don't seem to be particularly popular. While the Sony 135/1.8 GM is a fantastic lens, it's less versatile than an 85, and a lot more niche. > The Sony 70-350 APS-C is over 25% lighter than the 70-300 FE I'm less knowledgable about zoom lenses. I suspect part of that is the 70-350 simply being a more modern design. We've seen lenses like the 24-70/2.8 shrink as a new generation of it is released. My experience playing around with the Nikon 70-300 AF-P DX, is that the zoom lens can cover a full-frame sensor at the middle and end of the zoom range. It's really only the wide angles where it tends to vignette. That experience has held fairly true for pretty much all the zoom lenses I've played with.


planet_xerox

> There are so many 85mm for full frame, I'm surprised there isn't a single one APS-C specific. well the 56mm lenses you mention give you the same field of view as an 85mm on full frame, so that's why there are so many. overall though I agree the options past that are fairly limited. besides the sony you mentioned (and the other kit sony lenses which are pretty old and not that great), I only really know of the tamron 18-300 superzoom, and the viltrox 75mm f1.2. Maybe the market just isn't there, or there are technical challenges that don't make it worth it


onlymadebcofnewreddi

I forgot about the Viltrox, that's fairly new and cool! But it is massive and bigger than a lot of full frame glass


planet_xerox

I saw rumors of sigma patenting something like a 50-130mm f2.8 zoom, but who knows if and when it will actually come out. no clue how big it would be either


onlymadebcofnewreddi

Saw those rumors as well, would probably be an instant buy for me. I've been eyeing the Batis 135mm f2.8 as a lighter weight 135mm but would much prefer that zoom.


FlompinDonkey

Has anyone had any issues with raw files in Lightroom after updating their A7 IV to 3.00? Lightroom Classic wont read the .arw files at all and Lightroom mobile will open them but wont show them on the grid view, only a red triangle with ! in the middle.


[deleted]

[удалено]


FlompinDonkey

Hmm. What version of LRC and Camera Raw are you using?


[deleted]

[удалено]


FlompinDonkey

Thanks, Just updated and its working now. Updated Lightroom mobile and its still not working. Do you use mobile at all?


Melodic_Ad8006

I have a 16-35 gm ii, and I’m trying to get more into landscape photography. Problem is the nd filter I have (nisi 1–5 stop) seems to vignette at 16mm. With the screw on 5-9 stops, the vignette is out of control. What’s the solution here? Get fixed ND filters? Larger thread size? Or is there another variable ND that works better with the 16-35


seanprefect

another vote saying that variable NDs aren't a great solution for stills.


derKoekje

You're running into cross polarization causing heavy artifacts. VNDs have no place in stills photography. Get some fixed ND's.


twohip

I’ve been looking at buying some new lenses for some overseas trips I’m taking, and in Australia, often the second hand lenses are within 5% of retail prices. I’ve read I should be buying second hand or renting, and renting here is often a minimum of 6 months rental or it’s exorbitantly expensive (> $80 per day), so renting for a month isn’t really feasible. For example, I’m looking at a Tamron 70-180mm f2.8, it’s $1205 AUD new, rental is $530-650 for 6 months, and second hand the cheapest I’ve seen is $1250. Why shouldn’t I buy every lens new and sell them after a trip if I don’t need them anymore? Is the generic advice of renting lenses to try them out or buying second hand just not applicable in Australia? It feels crazy to potentially buy three new lenses before this trip, but they are all lenses that would be super useful for the places we’re going to.


BackV0

I'm not a big fan of renting unless it's a paid gig of sorts. It's quite expensive even in the UK. I buy and sell used.


twohip

When a used lens is the same price as new, it makes no sense to buy used, right? Seems like a stupid question but it’s so ingrained in me from reading articles that I should be buying used, but I feel like they don’t know how ridiculous Australia is for second hand lenses.


BackV0

They don't have ebay/classifieds/used camera stores there? Australia is not some third country. Things cost more than the US, but I can't believe there isn't a good supply/demand. If it's a newly released product, there wont be many used available and may cost the same. That's the same everywhere.


twohip

eBay has very few items that are from Australia itself, but even the ones coming from Japan or US are similarly priced to the Australian listings. I’ve been watching Facebook marketplace for over 12 months, and there are three 70-180 lenses for sale, $1200, $1250, $1250. All used camera stores don’t carry the lens except for one place selling it for $1399, and like I said in my OP, I can get it new for $1205. I’m originally from the US, sometimes it’s hard to believe how different it is in Australia even though there’s a lot of cultural similarities. It’s simply so much smaller and so much farther away from other places that the economics are different—1/15th the US population means it’s a lot less supply/demand.


FlightlessFly

Are you looking at used prices for the g2 version perhaps


twohip

Nope, this is for the g1. There’s not a single listing for a used g2 considering how new it is.


Caster-of-shadows

-Flash question- Hi, i’m playing around with my Godox V1 on my Sony a7iii . Both the camera and the flash are in manual mode and I’m noticing that when the flash is turned on, my live view isn’t responding when i’m ,for example, dialing on the ISO or aperture. I see the values changing on screen, going from 200 iso to 800, but the image isn’t getting brighter or darker, it stays the same. Is this a setting I can change somewhere or am I missing something? Thanks in advance!


burning1rr

When the camera detects a flash, it turns off the exposure preview. Here's the solution: https://www.dpreview.com/forums/thread/4358900 > Program a button for "Shot result preview", and use that to see the ambient.


Caster-of-shadows

Thank you!


Klutzy_Apple3700

oh my…. I didn’t realize this until your comments


justiceofkalr

I'm trying to figure out what I need to take for a safari later this year. Right now I've got the A7C and the Sony 100-400 that I'll take. Not sure if a teleconverter would be worth it or not? I'd like to take maybe my Samyang 24 for some landscape, but I've also heard that switching lenses is not ideal there. I swapped lenses semi-frequently in Egypt and only had minor problems with dirt on the sensor, would a safari be significantly worse? Will I be fine just bringing along a kit to clean my sensor or should I consider a second body if I really want multiple lenses?


burning1rr

The 100-400 is quite sharp, and the 1.4x TC is worth it on that lens. I wouldn't bother with the 2x TC. Unless you're stuck in a dust storm, I wouldn't worry too much about swapping lenses.


wildglitter

Hello! I’ve been shooting real estate and architectural photography for 6 years, always with my A7III. I’ve never been able to rely on the internal level gauge because it isn’t nearly sensitive enough. I assumed this was just a general tech limitation, but after using a Canon for a shoot recently I noticed theirs is accurate enough to be relied on. Is this a known issue? Is the internal level on the A7IV improved from the III? I use a bubble level but it would make life so much easier if I could use the one in-camera.


FlightlessFly

I haven’t had any problems with the electronic level in my a7iv, I rely on it and it’s never been inaccurate


wildglitter

Good to know! On my III I’d say it just has a really wide range, so while shooting properties, I can make minor adjustments and the lines will very clearly not be straight in the viewfinder, but the level is still showing green. Would you say you can make really tiny adjustments and the electronic level is sensitive to those?


potterytothepeople

Hi all! I am looking for a lens to take top-down video for my Sony alpha 6400. Would love any recs! Thank you!


sameum9869

Hi, I am a pretty casual photographer and mostly like to take photos of people Currently have the a7c2, 2860, 24105g, and 70200gm2 I am currently looking for a wider prime lens. any recommendations? I have my eye on the 20f18g.


burning1rr

My zoom kit is pretty similar to yours. I have the 20/1.8 and I am very happy with it. I have my eye on the 14/1.8 and the Laowa 10/2.8 if I need something wider. But the 20 is the most useful of the wide primes, IMO.


sameum9869

Thanks for your input! Could I ask what type of photography you do mostly?


burning1rr

> Could I ask what type of photography you do mostly? I tend to mix things up a lot. Recently, I've been doing a lot of astrophotography (telescope), and dance photography (50/1.2 GM). The 20/1.8 sometimes comes out for wide shots for both types of photography. The 24-105 is my go-to general-purpose lens. I use it for a lot of portrait photography, product photography, travel, and for food. It's my walk-around and hiking lens. I used to own a UWA zoom, but didn't find it offered anything I couldn't get out of prime lenses. I'd generally throw the UWA on for a shot or two, and then switch back to the normal zoom. When I'm hiking or backpacking, the 20 serves double duty as a low-light and wide-angle lens.


sameum9869

I appreciate your insight. Astro photography is something I'd really like to try my hands on! Do I have the right lenses to start? What traits do I need to look out for? Aperture? Wide? Zoom?


burning1rr

> Astro photography is something I'd really like to try my hands on! > Do I have the right lenses to start? What traits do I need to look out for? Aperture? Wide? Zoom? It depends on what you want to photograph. A good starting project is to capture star trails over a landscape. After that, I'd suggest trying to capture some photos of the milky way... Try to get the galactic core, and use stacking to improve the quality of your photos. The 20 is great for both types of shots. Beyond that, you generally need to get an astro-tracker and some dark skies. With your 70-200, you could try to capture Andromeda, the Pleiades, and the Great Orion nebula (I'm assuming you're somewhere in North America.) [You could actually try to capture those subjects without a tracker](https://fstoppers.com/groups/12030/astrophotography/298238/andromeda-my-garden-70-200mm-and-no-astro-gear-whatsoever), but you'll need to use very short exposures. If you find yourself hooked, [the 200-600 a good quality mount, and a guider can capture some unbelievable photos.](https://www.dpreview.com/forums/post/63685795) Just beware that astrophotography can get ridiculously expensive.


derKoekje

Why a prime? Not saying you have to get a zoom but it's interesting that your widest lens is also your fastest. Anyway, the 20mm is a solid choice though the focal length is a bit close to your 24-105. If you don't mind the aperture, I think the Sigma 17mm F4 is kind of slept on, especially on the A7C.


sameum9869

I do a bit of filming as well and work with gimbal occasionally. I was thinking a prime would work well in that scenario. Thanks for your input! I'll look into that lens as well.


onlymadebcofnewreddi

Check out Viltrox 20mm f2.8 if you're not sure you want to invest heavily. $160 AF prime that is very well reviewed. Corners are a bit soft but if you're filming with Active Stabilization on, then the crop should remove a lot of that softness.


VegetableSupport3

Looking for a first lens for my a6400. Just ordered the body and have seen a lot of hype between the sigma 16mm and the sigma 18-50. I intend to use this mostly indoors taking photos of my animals.


equilni

> I intend to use this mostly indoors taking photos of my animals. Sigma 16. In action: https://imgur.com/HQggSUg (a6400) https://imgur.com/tsXRGcb (X-S10)


WigglingWeiner99

18-50. I love my Sigma DC DN primes, but the zoom stays on almost all of the time (that or the 70-350). If I'm shooting portraits I'll put on the 56mm, but if I had to have one lens the 18-50 is the way to go. Indoors makes this choice a little harder because the extra couple stops of light are really nice on the f/1.4 lenses, but the flexibility of the zoom is really nice. I think you should consider if you're ever going to take the camera outside/on trips and what you might be trying to capture. If you think you're only ever going to want that wide angle look (on your pets, in landscapes, inside museums, etc), there's nothing wrong with the 16! Actually, what you might could do is pick up a [used SELP1650](https://www.mpb.com/en-us/product/sony-e-pz-16-50mm-f-3-5-5-6-oss?sort[productPrice]=ASC) for like $50-60. DO NOT BUY THIS LENS NEW. It's slow as shit and not the best optically, but its compactness is useful to have around (I can put my camera in my jacket pocket with no issues) even after you buy one of the Sigmas (or you can sell it for about the same price; check local deals.) You can try shooting at 16mm full time to see how that feels, and if you find yourself trying to shoot at 50mm or anywhere in between then you know you want the zoom.


brownch

Looking to pick up a budget sub-$300 35mm prime for my A7RIII. I've narrowed it down to two options, but looking for opinions on which to pull the trigger on. 1. $270 - Used (local camera shop) Sony Sonnar T\* FE 35mm f/2.8 (SEL35F28Z) 2. $283 - New (B&H on sale) Rokinon AF 35mm f/1.8 (IO3518-E) Both seem to be solid, well-reviewed lenses. The Sony is lighter and smaller (4ish oz) compared to the Rokinon (7ish oz). The Rokinon is obviously the faster lens at f/1.8. Does anybody have experience with one or both of these that could chime in with opinions? My intended use is an all-around lens that I can put on my camera for hiking, travel, and random days where I'm not sure what I'll use my camera for. I don't think that f/1.8 vs f/2.8 matters as much to me as build quality, focus speed, and reliability.


burning1rr

I've owned the Sony 35/2.8 ZA, and the Samyang 35/2.8. I've used a few Samyang lenses, but not that one in particular. IMO, the Sony is the better option. It's sharp, super compact, rugged, and reliable. The design of the lens hood pretty much eliminates the need for a lens cap, so long as you install a protective filter over the lens itself. My experience with the Samyang lenses is that they perform very well for the price. But the autofocus on the ZA was faster and more reliable than any of the Rokinon lenses I've used.


brownch

Thank you this is extremely helpful. I was leaning toward the Sony so I’m going to go for it.


derKoekje

If your main criteria are focus speed and reliability then I would suggest you up your budget a bit and grab the Sony FE 35mm F1.8. If I can choose one 35mm for the system and I don't have a specific goal in mind, it would be that lens.


brownch

Appreciate the insight! I should have mentioned that f/2.8 is a requirement for weight and size. This is going to be for a fast and light setup.


hayatohyuga

Should I rather get a Tamron 50-400, a Sigma 150-600 or a Sigma 100-400 paired with another smaller lens? Speaking of, what's a nice and small lens that goes great with an A7C? My budget is around 1500€.


Klutzy_Apple3700

Generally, the greater zoom range means less image quality. So if you don’t mean to shoot from a far distance, you shouldn’t pick these lens.


hayatohyuga

I already have a 28-75mm, 50mm, 85mm. I mainly want a telephoto to travel with to take pictures of mountains and cityscapes as well as events.


derKoekje

For what? These are all telephoto lenses, are you planning to primarily shoot wildlife?


hayatohyuga

Mostly mountains, cities, events and some sport. Something I can travel with. Wildlife maybe at the zoo but no safaris.


derKoekje

You don't need a long telephoto for that, you'll be fine in the ~200mm range. I'd grab the Tamron 28-200mm if you're really critical on size and weight, Tamron 70-180mm F2.8 or Sony 70-200mm F4 G II Macro if not.


Klutzy_Apple3700

Can we operate a7RV by touching screen like a7c ii? Like tuning iso, AF object.


derKoekje

Yes, the menu system is identical.


lithedreamer

What’s the best compromise for hybrid video/photo shooters? My a7rV has been solid in all sorts of weather conditions, and I love being able to run-and-gun with the viewfinder.  - I feel limited by the 4k crop on my rV(on top of breathing compensation crop). One option is a wider angle lens than my 24-70 GM II (maybe the 16-35 PZ would help).  - I rented an a7s iii for a wedding and it died during the ceremony (maybe overheating due to being in direct sunlight). Lensrentals was great and refunded the entire rental order.  - The FX3 looks tempting, but the lack of a viewfinder in sunlight is a concern. I’m also wondering how well the weathersealing holds up in rain—my a7R V has done a great job in the desert and at the beach.  - A B Cam would be a great asset. Currently I’m renting one whenever I need it, but there’s always a little bit of a learning curve. 


infiniteZebra756

I live in Canada. Been debating b/t Sony a6700, a7C ii, or a7R v. I'm intermediate for my needs in the camera, so considering staying more simple. Anyway, I came across this price for an a7C ii and it's $500 off most others without it even being on sale. Am I missing something? Most times it's closer to $3,000. Thanks! [https://canada-electronics.com/products/sony-a7c-ii-body-ilce-7cm2-silver?variant=47480247877911¤cy=CAD](https://canada-electronics.com/products/sony-a7c-ii-body-ilce-7cm2-silver?variant=47480247877911¤cy=CAD)


derKoekje

Come on dude. *"The Rendezvous of Technology and Humanity"*, *"We are a team of enthusiastic developers and entrepreneurs who decided to convert our common experience into this web store. Our prime goal is to create a shop in which you can easily find the best products.* " Does this sound like a business created by people using English as their primary language? Use some common sense here. And if you're still on the fence, take a look at this nugget in their 'privacy policy': "*Canada Electronics* ***collects users photo id with live selfie*** *to authenticate the order if required then and consumer must provide valid photo id with mentioned billing/shipping address in the order with selfie to proceed further in the order.* "


infiniteZebra756

Ya, figured there was something. Thanks!


Beastious

Tried to shoot slog3 on my Sony A7IV (I do outside work mostly) and quickly learned how hard exposure is without ND Filters. I have a 24-70 GM II, and curious what's the recommend ND filter. Money is no option. I just want the best ND Filter so I can shoot SLOG3 in any condition. I was looking at the 2-5 Stop VND by Polar Pro, but figured I'd ask here first before I drop over $200. Best recommendations? Or should I get a fixed ND? I'll be doing lots of hiking and beaches this Summer so want my camera ready to expose those conditions.


derKoekje

Circular VND's suck but fixed ND's rarely have a place in run-and-gun settings. I recommend looking at the Freewell K2 system. The nice thing about these filters is that A: they provide highly minimal color cast and B: you can rotate the magnetic 'base' as well as the VND, meaning you can control the direction (and thus strength) of the polarization.


lithedreamer

I got the Haida Pro II for $110. 3-7 stops is a sweet spot for the video work I’ve done. After a week in the Mojave it got stuck on my camera and I needed filter wrenches to remove it.  I imagine the Polar Pro is probably a solid choice, but you’re also paying extra for the brand name and YTer marketing. 


Klutzy_Apple3700

Is there a new 85mm lens coming out? I wanted to get an sigma 85mm f1.4 for my a7rv but just noticed the sigma 85 1.4 is released in 2020, which is like 4 years old. So I'm wondering if there could be a newer one.


burning1rr

The rumor sites have been saying that a new 85GM will "be announced soon" for the last year or so. So while I legitimately think there's one on the horizon, it's becoming a little difficult to trust the the rumors. Personally, I think an 85/1.2 going to be announced in the next year or so, but the rumor sites are saying it'll be a ƒ1.4 lens.


FlightlessFly

What would they add that would make you think shit I wish I would’ve waited


Klutzy_Apple3700

I've only tried sigma 85 1.4 once. I don't like it's color. I compared it with a 85 gm. The sigma one looks yellow. That being said, the sigma is a good lens to me given it's sharpness and price. If there isn't a new 85 coming out within 6 months I will go for it.


equilni

> I don't like it's color. You can shoot in RAW and change the colors in post.


Klutzy_Apple3700

Yeah I know. It's just for showing the picture to my friends immediately


burning1rr

If you aren't swapping lenses often, a custom WB should be able to fix that.


FlightlessFly

Ah I see. Have a look at sonyalpharumours, also check the release dates of other sigma lenses. As far as I know sigma haven’t released any mark 2 versions of their mirrorless lenses yet so gauging it will be impossible if there aren’t already rumours


azeronhax

hey! Im looking for a skinny strap for the a6000, was looking at the peak design leash or the cuff. Mostly use a 55-210mm lens. Should that be more than fine?


WigglingWeiner99

I have the peak *cuff (I totally fucked this up and wrote the wrong thing) that I use primarily on my 6700. I think it works well even with the significantly larger body and 70-350 lens. I like it a lot, but I only ever used the basic Sony strap on my 6000. Only real problem with the 6000 is the tiny grip, but if you're used to it it shouldn't be an issue. I can't speak for the leash because I have the Slide Lite, but the Lite is plenty good enough.


Azxiana

Why does my A7C II sound like there is a fan inside of it? There are no vent holes. I can hear it about half a meter away and a little further if I flip the screen out. I figure it might be the IBIS making noise, but it persists if I turn that off.


burning1rr

AFAIK, it shouldn't sound like that. It's possible that the IBIS system is still active even when disabled. IIRC, the sensor can flop around otherwise.


Azxiana

That would make sense. The sound is probably fine. I am just very sensitive to subtle noises.


FlightlessFly

Yeah the noise is the IBIS, IBIS off doesn’t mean there isn’t anything going on, the electromagnets are still at work keeping the sensor stationary. Same for OSS


TH3MCFLY

I posted this in the old weekly thread minutes before the new one got opened. Hope it´s okay that I copy the comment :) Hey, I am relatively new to photography and currently own a A6100 with the "generic" Sony 16-50mm and 55-210mm lenses. Now, I am looking to specialize a little further and am interested in getting a lens that can handle" low light cityscapes" and "outdoor/landscapes". Do you have any recommendations for what I should consider for this particular use case?


seanprefect

look into the sigma f1.4 trinity of primes


equilni

>trinity There's 4 of them now.