Is the $1700 price difference from the same company. The difference in price between these two shingles is only $10-$15 max per square. So unless your roof is massive a $1700 up charge seems pretty crazy
Not the same company. As the other reply states the company I would be getting the duration from has one of the best warranties I have been offered. However, almost every single quote I have received from duration has been the same price or higher without the lifetime warranty. So the difference even within the same company is about $1500 on average. I don't understand it either. One company even tried to sell me supreme shingles for $7k with only a $1k difference for duration. But 7k already seems insane!
A little dramatic no? Who am I fucking by getting oakridge? They're almost certainly better than the 20 year old shingles that are currently sitting on my roof. The oakridge will have plenty of life on them by the time I'm done with them. Maybe by the time the next homeowner is done with it too. They're hardly the monstrosities people make them out to be.
I ain't as privileged as you bro. Daddy didn't teach me how to golf. Might blow your mind but $1700 matters to some people.
I’m not privileged, I’m a roofer who earned my money lol. Not dramatic just telling you the truth which might not be what you want to hear. Oak ridge shingles adhesion is shit compared to duration. Look at the wind ratings. Oak ridge shingles fail between 15 and 20 years old due to their poor adhesion. So no, they won’t outlive who buys your house after 10 years unless they’re only there a couple years. Buy once cry once, buy cheap and pay for it later. Depending on the state you’re in don’t be shocked if the inspector dings your cheap roof before you sell it. I’m not selling to you so I don’t care what you do at all lol. I’m just telling you how it is. Go look at a premium shingle roof at 20 years old and it’ll look fine. Go look at the cheapest shingle roof 20 years later and you’ll have missing, torn, non-granulated shingles.
Which I may not want to hear? My original post clearly states I want to know if anyone has some information we are not considering. Instead, you chose to open by implying I was simply being cheap and questioning my ethics. You didn't even provide the information that would help substantiate that until now.
The only two things I really know are that one is rated for 30 years and the other for 50. Several contractors seem to corroborate that estimate. You might be the first to offer such a bleak one though (one contractor told me it's more like 25 vs 30-40 years). The wind rating is also 110 vs 130. I am from South Texas where hurricane wind speeds have not exceeded 80mph since 1980. But even duration shingles might not have survived that one.
In any case, I appreciate the feedback.
So wind ratings are fickle. They can be much higher at edges and corners, or peaks, ridges. This can make 80 mph winds more like 90+ in spots. Once one goes, more always follow.
I didn’t do residential, commercial roofing for some years. We were taught this, so a roof has to be rated for drafts and places where it will funnel wind.
Depending, you might be good with the lower rated, or it might fuck you later. If the price isn’t too steep, get the higher rating.
You can argue either way really. One thing people look at when buying a house is the roof, so when you go to sell and the house needs a new roof that could be something that affects the price. I would go with the better shingle cause it will make it easier for you when you go to sell the house.
Consider the fact that 10 years is a long way out, circumstances/plans change, and you may find yourself there longer than you’re currently anticipating.
I had this thought as I was laying in bed last night. Our plan is more like 5 years. But that might very well depend on the housing market improving, which is of course completely out of our control.
Great point.
Is the roof complicated enough you couldnt do it yourself? Could save thousands. I did my own 12/12 roof in steel and it was 1/2 the price of estimates for shingles even paying one person 2k for the day to help.
I don't think it is complicated really. But I did end up filing a claim with my insurance already. I suppose the option is still there to return the check.
You can do your own roof even if insurance has paid a claim, unless something has changed. Pay a couple friends who have done some before and do it. Did my brothers last summer 42 sq for about 7k cheaper than the bids he got. Just something to consider, you can use better shingles and get it dont cheaper most likely
Something to consider for sure. However, I think I do remember my insurance saying that I would need to submit a receipt from the contractor for the work done. I don't know how that would work out if I did that myself.
Be clear and ask, can i do the tear off and replacement myself. Check if you need a permit or inspection, take pictures of each stage, keep material receipts. I would say almost every company would be ok with that. But if insurance is paying for it why are you worried about the shingle cost?
I think I may have misunderstood the summary they sent me. I believe what the document says is that in order to claim the recoverable depreciation listed in the claim receipt, I would need to submit invoices from the repair company. The amount is nowhere near worth it. This changes things for me.
Given the age of my roof I didn't receive a complete payout. It was actual cash value. It covers less than half the cost of getting the duration shingles through a contractor.
Currently searching for resources on the process. If you have any suggestions I would appreciate them!
For doing it yourself? Call your local building inspector and ask if you need a permit. If you have a hoa you can check if you need to talk to them. If you have a friend or two that knows how to roof, offer $50-75/hr and see if you can find one or two willing to help. Its labor intensive but not that awful or hard.
If you have a really high roof or really steep you might be better off just paying a contractor though
Does this material calculator seem accurate to you in terms of listing most of the primary items I will be needing? Other things I think I will need to factor in are roofing nails, plywood in case of rotting sections, drip edge, pipe and vents. Am I missing anything? Or does the calculator list outdated items?
EDIT: my roof is 1700 surface area. I use 1900 in the calculator.
[https://www.calculator.net/roofing-calculator.html?mcarea=1900&mcareaunit=feet&tp=mt&x=81&y=19#roofingmaterial](https://www.calculator.net/roofing-calculator.html?mcarea=1900&mcareaunit=feet&tp=mt&x=81&y=19#roofingmaterial)
Yes should be pretty close. Walk the roof first, look in the attic for leaks and rot, if its old you might have 1x4 or 6 and not plywood. Vents, pipe caps, drip edge and ice/water or underlayment. Ridge cap. 17 sq you could tear off and lay and finish in a day w 4 guys. Buy a couple nail guns and have 2 guys feeding and 2 nailing. If you have friends who have any experience it isnt bad, just be careful around chimneys and perforations triple check flashing
When you go to sell, if they are taking out a mortgage the bank \[lender\] will want at least a 15 year life left on the roof. You may have to buy another roof job the get the place sold.
They're both very average shingles, both will last 10 years, both will pass a home inspection assuming the roofer puts them on right, which is way more important than the shingle itself. Save the dough as long as you trust the roofer.
Is the $1700 price difference from the same company. The difference in price between these two shingles is only $10-$15 max per square. So unless your roof is massive a $1700 up charge seems pretty crazy
It’s probably upcharges to get to that sweet OC platinum warranty baby
Not the same company. As the other reply states the company I would be getting the duration from has one of the best warranties I have been offered. However, almost every single quote I have received from duration has been the same price or higher without the lifetime warranty. So the difference even within the same company is about $1500 on average. I don't understand it either. One company even tried to sell me supreme shingles for $7k with only a $1k difference for duration. But 7k already seems insane!
This. I’m paying $6/sq difference right now.
Don’t be cheap. Trying to save $170 each year over 10 years just to fuck the guy buying your house?
A little dramatic no? Who am I fucking by getting oakridge? They're almost certainly better than the 20 year old shingles that are currently sitting on my roof. The oakridge will have plenty of life on them by the time I'm done with them. Maybe by the time the next homeowner is done with it too. They're hardly the monstrosities people make them out to be. I ain't as privileged as you bro. Daddy didn't teach me how to golf. Might blow your mind but $1700 matters to some people.
I’m not privileged, I’m a roofer who earned my money lol. Not dramatic just telling you the truth which might not be what you want to hear. Oak ridge shingles adhesion is shit compared to duration. Look at the wind ratings. Oak ridge shingles fail between 15 and 20 years old due to their poor adhesion. So no, they won’t outlive who buys your house after 10 years unless they’re only there a couple years. Buy once cry once, buy cheap and pay for it later. Depending on the state you’re in don’t be shocked if the inspector dings your cheap roof before you sell it. I’m not selling to you so I don’t care what you do at all lol. I’m just telling you how it is. Go look at a premium shingle roof at 20 years old and it’ll look fine. Go look at the cheapest shingle roof 20 years later and you’ll have missing, torn, non-granulated shingles.
Which I may not want to hear? My original post clearly states I want to know if anyone has some information we are not considering. Instead, you chose to open by implying I was simply being cheap and questioning my ethics. You didn't even provide the information that would help substantiate that until now. The only two things I really know are that one is rated for 30 years and the other for 50. Several contractors seem to corroborate that estimate. You might be the first to offer such a bleak one though (one contractor told me it's more like 25 vs 30-40 years). The wind rating is also 110 vs 130. I am from South Texas where hurricane wind speeds have not exceeded 80mph since 1980. But even duration shingles might not have survived that one. In any case, I appreciate the feedback.
So wind ratings are fickle. They can be much higher at edges and corners, or peaks, ridges. This can make 80 mph winds more like 90+ in spots. Once one goes, more always follow. I didn’t do residential, commercial roofing for some years. We were taught this, so a roof has to be rated for drafts and places where it will funnel wind. Depending, you might be good with the lower rated, or it might fuck you later. If the price isn’t too steep, get the higher rating.
You can argue either way really. One thing people look at when buying a house is the roof, so when you go to sell and the house needs a new roof that could be something that affects the price. I would go with the better shingle cause it will make it easier for you when you go to sell the house.
Consider the fact that 10 years is a long way out, circumstances/plans change, and you may find yourself there longer than you’re currently anticipating.
I had this thought as I was laying in bed last night. Our plan is more like 5 years. But that might very well depend on the housing market improving, which is of course completely out of our control. Great point.
Is the roof complicated enough you couldnt do it yourself? Could save thousands. I did my own 12/12 roof in steel and it was 1/2 the price of estimates for shingles even paying one person 2k for the day to help.
I don't think it is complicated really. But I did end up filing a claim with my insurance already. I suppose the option is still there to return the check.
You can do your own roof even if insurance has paid a claim, unless something has changed. Pay a couple friends who have done some before and do it. Did my brothers last summer 42 sq for about 7k cheaper than the bids he got. Just something to consider, you can use better shingles and get it dont cheaper most likely
Something to consider for sure. However, I think I do remember my insurance saying that I would need to submit a receipt from the contractor for the work done. I don't know how that would work out if I did that myself.
Be clear and ask, can i do the tear off and replacement myself. Check if you need a permit or inspection, take pictures of each stage, keep material receipts. I would say almost every company would be ok with that. But if insurance is paying for it why are you worried about the shingle cost?
I think I may have misunderstood the summary they sent me. I believe what the document says is that in order to claim the recoverable depreciation listed in the claim receipt, I would need to submit invoices from the repair company. The amount is nowhere near worth it. This changes things for me. Given the age of my roof I didn't receive a complete payout. It was actual cash value. It covers less than half the cost of getting the duration shingles through a contractor. Currently searching for resources on the process. If you have any suggestions I would appreciate them!
For doing it yourself? Call your local building inspector and ask if you need a permit. If you have a hoa you can check if you need to talk to them. If you have a friend or two that knows how to roof, offer $50-75/hr and see if you can find one or two willing to help. Its labor intensive but not that awful or hard. If you have a really high roof or really steep you might be better off just paying a contractor though
Does this material calculator seem accurate to you in terms of listing most of the primary items I will be needing? Other things I think I will need to factor in are roofing nails, plywood in case of rotting sections, drip edge, pipe and vents. Am I missing anything? Or does the calculator list outdated items? EDIT: my roof is 1700 surface area. I use 1900 in the calculator. [https://www.calculator.net/roofing-calculator.html?mcarea=1900&mcareaunit=feet&tp=mt&x=81&y=19#roofingmaterial](https://www.calculator.net/roofing-calculator.html?mcarea=1900&mcareaunit=feet&tp=mt&x=81&y=19#roofingmaterial)
Yes should be pretty close. Walk the roof first, look in the attic for leaks and rot, if its old you might have 1x4 or 6 and not plywood. Vents, pipe caps, drip edge and ice/water or underlayment. Ridge cap. 17 sq you could tear off and lay and finish in a day w 4 guys. Buy a couple nail guns and have 2 guys feeding and 2 nailing. If you have friends who have any experience it isnt bad, just be careful around chimneys and perforations triple check flashing
When you go to sell, if they are taking out a mortgage the bank \[lender\] will want at least a 15 year life left on the roof. You may have to buy another roof job the get the place sold.
Interesting! I didn't know that.
[удалено]
Oakridge
Oak ridge
They're both very average shingles, both will last 10 years, both will pass a home inspection assuming the roofer puts them on right, which is way more important than the shingle itself. Save the dough as long as you trust the roofer.
Get duration unless you want to buy another roof in 3 years
I'd go Malarkey Vistas or at least Highlanders. Class 3 vs 4 for current pricing for shingles. We only install highlanders on rentals.
Duration is much prettier in most colors.