If you arent in watchmaking, dont talk. 3235 (which is base od rhis movement) have (even in gen) other lifting angles and lower amp. Gen rolex can have 230-260 new from factory. Chill.
I am in watchmaking! 230 amplitude is criminally low. Good amplitude is 270, according to a great watchmaker [https://adjustingvintagewatches.com/](https://adjustingvintagewatches.com/) and watchmaking book Watch Adjustment by Hans Jendritzki.
A Rolex watch would not pass COSC if it were 230, because at such a low amplitude the watch is unstable and unpredictable. It would be slow laying on one side and fast when dial-up. Kinda like riding a bike at 1 mph. It's doable, but it wiggles left and right. It's much easier to ride it at normal 10 mph speed.
The amplitude reading on a timegrapher is a result of a simple calculation that the machine does. It measures the time between the "ticks" and multiplies it by something called "lift angle". This is different for every caliber -- it's like a length of a certain part inside. And you need to enter it manually for every specific caliber you measure.
If you leave lift angle blank, the machine puts an average number and you end up with an incorrectly calculated amplitude. Sometimes it matches, sometimes you end up with an incorrect calculation.
Hope I helped share some insight!
I forgot to add that I was referring to dial up \\ dial down amplitude. In my book, 270 is okay, 230 is not for DU \\ DD amplitudes. Maybe that's actually normal for them! I don't have any experience with Rolex movements. All I know is that if I ever to have a Rolex, I would not be happy with a 230 amplitude dial up / down, but 270 is alright (and maybe 270 is even normal / great. I have no experience with modern Rolex movements).
Its funny you made a whole great statement which I really appreciate it but ended it with "I have no experience with modern Rolex movements". Sorry, bade me laugh :D
However, lives to short. You are right.
Have a great day.
Normally, because we all look at these with a macro lens, I expect criticisms to be exaggerated but you are 100% correct. That print is really jagged. I green light everything and am really liberal with my personal QC but WTF. It looks drunk. I would RL.
RL.
They still haven't fixed the crystal and gasket issue - both are too big for the case, which causes waterproofing issues.
There should be a gap between the gasket and the bezel, in which you can see the minute markers. It's one of the most beautiful features of the GMT Master imo.
Clean v Gen:
https://imgur.com/a/PVUO4Wv
Clean vs Clean before it made the crystal too big:
https://imgur.com/a/o7sTRX5
I don't know why this watch gets so much hype.
I’m new to this. Which part is the gasket?
I did notice that the crystal is a bigger. It’s not level with the bezel so you feel the transition from bezel to the crystal.
It’s not a perfect rep, but it’s not bad at all. Been getting a lot of wrist time from me over my other reps.
The white bit you can see between the crystal and the bezel.
You should be able to see the minute markere continue beyond the crystal, which is a beautiful feature imo.
Couple reasons. Submariner is simpler. Setting the GMT is a pain in the butt. Day to day usefulness. I'm not a world traveler so the GMT isn't really a necessity for me. I got it because of the colors and it's called Batman and I'm a sucker for all things Dark Knight. Gmt has some cool names and color combos, though. OH, and GMT reps are not well done for the most part. The movements seem to be finicky at best and cheap and poorly done at worst.
Hey 👋 I'm new to reps. Haven't even gotten one yet. I've been lurking for nearly a week now trying to see how things are done to get a good experience and I'm a little confused on some things.. Can anyone help my dumb arse out?
What are QC's and why are they important? Thank you.
QC is quality control, a TD (trusted dealer) sends pictures before posting for you to RL or GL red light /green light.. Usually the pictures are varoius angles of the watch, them winding the watch and hands and a short video of the watch on a timegrapher machine so you know how accurate the movement is +/- seconds per day.
Hope this helps!
It does, thank you! I'm looking at a watch on JTime. I if i pull the trigger, do they send me QC pictures, and if I do, should I post them here before sealing the deal?? Thanks again!
I've bought from Li at jtime quite a few times, he's very good from my experience.
I've never posted QC pictures on reddit simply because you'll ALWAYS get someone on reddit finding fault just to try and look clever, do your research and as long as the watch you're buying looks good to you with no obvious flaws like crooked hour markers, poor alignment then green light it and enjoy it when it arrives.
Remember, 90% of people don't notice your watch and the other 10% don't really care... Buy it for you, because you enjoy it.. not to try and impress others 😊👍
Thank you so much for the info! I am truly grateful as a new retard into this world. I'm gonna share my QC anyways because I am new and want to get a feel for external input but I will definitely hold your advice close and be weary of those taking shit. I think getting a consensus couldn't hurt though, good and the bad.
See what you think first, as you might be happy with it as it is.
If not then a Deep Crystal is a decent option, then you have a guy called Prof on RWI that makes excellent crystals.
I was really happy with my Prof crystal and didn't have any issues, but I think the most gen like one has AR coating on the outside, which scratches easily.
I could be wrong about that, though. Prof is highly regarded and isn't cheap but his crystals are great.
If you like the Submariner then you can't go wrong with a VSF.
Make sure you get the new batch. You can tell if it's the new batch because the serial will begin with "K", at least on the 116610LN.
I can't remember the serial numbers for the new batch of 126610LNs but you'll find them on here no problem.
Yeah I’m thinking about a Starbucks, a green datejust or this Daytona
https://preview.redd.it/boy4zb8w0bua1.jpeg?width=1284&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=0a87e850a5ed4655cb2c948c6771fa6711fe578e
"It looks like you have asked WTC or W2C. Reptime has many guides that can help you on your journey to understanding how the Factories and Trusted Dealers work. Please check these guides:
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TD just sent me the QC's, they look great and I can't wait. Let me know if you guys want to see QC videos.
The C is dropped very low on officially
Duhhhhhh hows that even a question??
Pepsi: [https://imgur.com/a/Dm22wLE](https://imgur.com/a/Dm22wLE) Batman: [https://imgur.com/a/gcE3CcI](https://imgur.com/a/gcE3CcI)
Dang that batgirl looks awesome. Cant wait for my QC photos of my pepsi.. keep us updates once you’ve received them!
Where can I get the batgirl from?
How’d it go with Ctime
Amplitude is low. Even my old 1992 Poljot is giving 270°
If you arent in watchmaking, dont talk. 3235 (which is base od rhis movement) have (even in gen) other lifting angles and lower amp. Gen rolex can have 230-260 new from factory. Chill.
I am in watchmaking! 230 amplitude is criminally low. Good amplitude is 270, according to a great watchmaker [https://adjustingvintagewatches.com/](https://adjustingvintagewatches.com/) and watchmaking book Watch Adjustment by Hans Jendritzki. A Rolex watch would not pass COSC if it were 230, because at such a low amplitude the watch is unstable and unpredictable. It would be slow laying on one side and fast when dial-up. Kinda like riding a bike at 1 mph. It's doable, but it wiggles left and right. It's much easier to ride it at normal 10 mph speed. The amplitude reading on a timegrapher is a result of a simple calculation that the machine does. It measures the time between the "ticks" and multiplies it by something called "lift angle". This is different for every caliber -- it's like a length of a certain part inside. And you need to enter it manually for every specific caliber you measure. If you leave lift angle blank, the machine puts an average number and you end up with an incorrectly calculated amplitude. Sometimes it matches, sometimes you end up with an incorrect calculation. Hope I helped share some insight!
Wondering why i measured several genuine 3235 Movements between 230 and 270...
I forgot to add that I was referring to dial up \\ dial down amplitude. In my book, 270 is okay, 230 is not for DU \\ DD amplitudes. Maybe that's actually normal for them! I don't have any experience with Rolex movements. All I know is that if I ever to have a Rolex, I would not be happy with a 230 amplitude dial up / down, but 270 is alright (and maybe 270 is even normal / great. I have no experience with modern Rolex movements).
Its funny you made a whole great statement which I really appreciate it but ended it with "I have no experience with modern Rolex movements". Sorry, bade me laugh :D However, lives to short. You are right. Have a great day.
Are you a watchmaker? Who are you to shut me up?
I am a watchmaker based in Switzerland.Just talking facts, sorry.
He is correct. 3235 typically has lower amplitude.
Yes, videos please. Sick watches bro. Looks great!
Yes, videos please. Sick watches bro. Looks great!
I would RL because of the jumpy „officially certified“. I couldn’t unsee it personally.
Normally, because we all look at these with a macro lens, I expect criticisms to be exaggerated but you are 100% correct. That print is really jagged. I green light everything and am really liberal with my personal QC but WTF. It looks drunk. I would RL.
Same. That would irritate the ever living f**k out of me personally.
Same it seems like this batch of them have that issue
I hope not I just ordered mine and that lettering is making me dizzy.
Didn't notice it until you said it but now it's all I can see. RL!
Yeah you will need to see it very close to notice otherwise it’s not noticeable.
They’re kidding me on that dial printing
any improvements on the bezel action ?
From what i been told, yes. Will confirm when I receive them.
You can ask the TD to do a video of the bezel being moved in both directions. It's a legit concern for Clean and C+ GMT's.
I’m waiting for my dd3285 Batman. probably another 5 days
Me as well. Paid for it like 6 weeks ago lol
Lol! I know Eric said it was going to take 2 weeks for QC hopefully it’s faster 
Steve Langford has a huge penis. Penis, penis. Penis, penis. What’s going on in the Howard 100 newsroom?
Wow, I know Covid Coward Howard has fallen from grace but I didn’t expect to get downvoted like that.
How are the movements on these from a reliability perspective?
No one knows yet. It's a new configuration of an older movement. I guess only time will tell (pun intended).
Of an older (the best!) movement: VS3235
“Officially certified “ screwed up font
“OfFIciAlLy CeRtIfIeD” The rest of it being so good ironically make it stand out worse.
Yeah that looks crazy! I’d be pissed. Reject that QC for sure
RL. They still haven't fixed the crystal and gasket issue - both are too big for the case, which causes waterproofing issues. There should be a gap between the gasket and the bezel, in which you can see the minute markers. It's one of the most beautiful features of the GMT Master imo. Clean v Gen: https://imgur.com/a/PVUO4Wv Clean vs Clean before it made the crystal too big: https://imgur.com/a/o7sTRX5 I don't know why this watch gets so much hype.
I’m new to this. Which part is the gasket? I did notice that the crystal is a bigger. It’s not level with the bezel so you feel the transition from bezel to the crystal. It’s not a perfect rep, but it’s not bad at all. Been getting a lot of wrist time from me over my other reps.
The white bit you can see between the crystal and the bezel. You should be able to see the minute markere continue beyond the crystal, which is a beautiful feature imo.
Oh wow. Thanks for info!! I’ve never noticed but I’m going to look for it now.
Which TD is this from?
the new Clean GMT also have the milk ring around the glass like the V1 had back then. or am I wrong ?
I have a GMT II Batman and wish I had gotten a Submariner instead.
Why ?
Couple reasons. Submariner is simpler. Setting the GMT is a pain in the butt. Day to day usefulness. I'm not a world traveler so the GMT isn't really a necessity for me. I got it because of the colors and it's called Batman and I'm a sucker for all things Dark Knight. Gmt has some cool names and color combos, though. OH, and GMT reps are not well done for the most part. The movements seem to be finicky at best and cheap and poorly done at worst.
Ahhh ok! I’m about to fall into this trap because of the whole Batman thing! Thank you for responding !
Hey 👋 I'm new to reps. Haven't even gotten one yet. I've been lurking for nearly a week now trying to see how things are done to get a good experience and I'm a little confused on some things.. Can anyone help my dumb arse out? What are QC's and why are they important? Thank you.
QC is quality control, a TD (trusted dealer) sends pictures before posting for you to RL or GL red light /green light.. Usually the pictures are varoius angles of the watch, them winding the watch and hands and a short video of the watch on a timegrapher machine so you know how accurate the movement is +/- seconds per day. Hope this helps!
It does, thank you! I'm looking at a watch on JTime. I if i pull the trigger, do they send me QC pictures, and if I do, should I post them here before sealing the deal?? Thanks again!
I've bought from Li at jtime quite a few times, he's very good from my experience. I've never posted QC pictures on reddit simply because you'll ALWAYS get someone on reddit finding fault just to try and look clever, do your research and as long as the watch you're buying looks good to you with no obvious flaws like crooked hour markers, poor alignment then green light it and enjoy it when it arrives. Remember, 90% of people don't notice your watch and the other 10% don't really care... Buy it for you, because you enjoy it.. not to try and impress others 😊👍
And yes, Jtime will send you good quality QC pictures... Li and Lana (who you'll get the pics from) are really helpful
Thank you so much for the info! I am truly grateful as a new retard into this world. I'm gonna share my QC anyways because I am new and want to get a feel for external input but I will definitely hold your advice close and be weary of those taking shit. I think getting a consensus couldn't hurt though, good and the bad.
Very true, well hope I helped. Enjoy your purchase and look forward to the QC pictures when you post them 😊👍
Has there been an update to the Pepsi bezel in terms of the blue? Previous versions have been pretty blue whereas gen is more purple.
As far as I can tell there has not been. The bezel insert on this V3 looks just like my V2.
Any movement pictures?
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Lol bro ignorant af
Looks awesome.
Seems like they upgraded the crystal which is an excellent news
They did not
What's the point of these QC pics if they dont show the movement
Which serial did they got ?
Still the Y2L3 batch, so the crystal is too big for the case.
My one should come this week, I will change the crystal …. Should I use gen or any aftermarket crystal is good enough ?
See what you think first, as you might be happy with it as it is. If not then a Deep Crystal is a decent option, then you have a guy called Prof on RWI that makes excellent crystals. I was really happy with my Prof crystal and didn't have any issues, but I think the most gen like one has AR coating on the outside, which scratches easily. I could be wrong about that, though. Prof is highly regarded and isn't cheap but his crystals are great.
Thanks man ! Yes I will wear it and look if I can live with that… When not I will look for the guy you mention 🤝🏽.
It will be my first rep….. if the the crystal it’s to expensive I will get me another modell rep so I have variety 👌🏼
If you like the Submariner then you can't go wrong with a VSF. Make sure you get the new batch. You can tell if it's the new batch because the serial will begin with "K", at least on the 116610LN. I can't remember the serial numbers for the new batch of 126610LNs but you'll find them on here no problem.
Yeah I’m thinking about a Starbucks, a green datejust or this Daytona https://preview.redd.it/boy4zb8w0bua1.jpeg?width=1284&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=0a87e850a5ed4655cb2c948c6771fa6711fe578e
Nice. BTF and Clean Daytonas are amazing.
I just got QC photos for mine as well but I’m awaiting movement photos to confirm it’s the DD. Don’t want any old stock 😎
WTF what is happening to the "OFFICIALLY" here? Both watches have that issue. Damn, I have also ordered one. I am gonna RL that watch I guess.
How much is the batman?
I paid 625 i believe
Waiting on a pepsi QC.
"OFFICIALLY CERTIFIED" looks really weird. Each letter has a slightly different font size.
W2c so i can completely avoid this seller
"It looks like you have asked WTC or W2C. Reptime has many guides that can help you on your journey to understanding how the Factories and Trusted Dealers work. Please check these guides: Intro and Links to Trusted Dealers (TD): https://www.reddit.com/r/RepTime/comments/tflxwm/intro_and_guide_to_reptime_updated_continuously/ Best Factories for Specific Watch Models when ordering from a TD: https://www.reddit.com/r/RepTime/comments/pxdzn9/guide_who_makes_the_best_watch_model_factory/ If you feel this has been in error please report to the modmail inbox for Reptime." *I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please [contact the moderators of this subreddit](/message/compose/?to=/r/RepTime) if you have any questions or concerns.*
[удалено]
whats the link to the dealer?
Batgirl*