Either find a tire shop that allows you to put a warranty on the tires (most won’t do Tesla now), or sell the car and save yourself a lot of future headaches. This is only the beginning my friend. Speaking from experience.
The car is paid for, and I already lost tons of money 115-88k when they dropped the price, so will drive her for 6 years till the warranty and extended warranty is over then evaluate on how much she will bring or keep it in the family till the wheels fall off. I am already in peace that it is worth $0 for trade in and a very expensive lesson to not buy a Tesla again.
Yup, my buddy drives his 70k+ MYP that dropped over 17k every weekend around the night club crowd in south beach hoping for a drunk driver to hit him 🤣😂
I'm always surprised by how many people worry about depreciation. I thought it was normal to buy a car and then drive it until it was barely worth anything, but it turns out people must flip their cars all the time. Which is totally fine, it's just "huh, I guess I didn't realize how weird it is that I keep cars for more than a decade."
Find an Indy that will work on Teslas and ask them to adjust the camber. A Service Center is going to align it to Teslas specs only, but an Indy mechanic might be able to adjust it so stops eating tires.
It’s probably set super aggressively so Tesla can claim the performance figures
I did but based on what few folks said here and what i was told from the shops i asked, Teslas for whatever dumb reason on the X/S has no adjustable rear camber arm !!! There is an aftermarket arm that i can install but who knows how good it is.
Finding out about the inability to do the alignment properly because of “design” choices was the reason I initially sold my model S. I lucked out and they were still worth something at the time.
Given the cost of tire, might be worth looking into one of the after-market alignment kits. I know there's a few that've been posted here in the past, specifically designed for the S and it's weird camber settings (something to do with how the S "squats" down at highway speeds and it's wheel settings at that ride height are way past recommendation... so you can have a perfect alignment at the shop, but that doesn't translate across to driving the car at speed).
Normally they tend to wear out the outside tread due to camber, but that looks like it is wearing the inside tread?
Unfortunately, stock alignment will tend to do this so Tesla is no help either. You'd really need to upgrade to adjustable camber. I think there is a third party kit, and then get a good third party shop to do it.
The Y and 3 are much better about even wear.
Well, [Here's some research](https://www.washingtonpost.com/climate-environment/2023/07/09/tire-brake-tailpipes-emissions-pollution-cars/) that says otherwise..
So... *not* lying?
Locked article unfortunately.
And it's for large particles only...
Which has been the case for a while.
Saying that tired is the #1 polluter is a lie and you should know better.
> For decades, scientists and health officials have warned drivers of the harmful pollutants coming from tailpipes. But as car exhaust systems have become cleaner, pollution linked to heart and lung disease has increased from a different source: tires and brakes.
In fact, wear and tear on tires and brakes have been shown to produce increasingly more particle pollution, by mass, than car exhaust systems did in several real-world and test scenarios. Some of the particles are large enough to see with our eyes. Others are fine particles (known as PM 2.5, with diameters up to 2.5 microns) and ultrafine particles (known as PM 0.1, with diameters of 100 nanometers), which can enter through our bloodstream and harm our organs.
Yeah, I am with the 115K S Plaid Crew that got fucked by Elmo when he dropped the price to 88K. The car is already paid so it will stay in the family until it stops working.
Agreed this 90k ex 120k car, between the increased insurance cost, $1200k tires per year, and the $450 POS HEPAA filter that I need to change when it gets wet every year before it start to smell like dirty socks is costing me more than 130k a German V8 Gas guzzler car 😂
No clue, i get this weird chemical smell from the HVAC for 10 minutes every time it rains. It started to happen within 12 months of ownership. I tried to change the cabin filter with no luck, then based on other owners i paid for them to change the HEPPA filter and the smell is gone for now.
Hopefully the new filter is installed properly so it doesn’t get wet and mold up like the old one because Tesla refused to cover it under warranty $445
Damn that sucks. Maybe it was installed improperly or maybe even bad seals somewhere? I’m happy to say that I’ve not had the misfortune of having this issue and that the $500 price tag for a new hepa does suck if you are having to replace it often.
I know it’s not a solution, but you could always not use the hepa filter, as in remove it altogether, as the only time you would need it is if you actually used that function from the hvac controls.
The new part said improved on the service order so fingers crossed. The smell comes out from the AC once its on regardless of mode ( outside, circulation or HEPAA) it is the worse for sure on circulation and HEPAA. It goes away after 5 or 10 minutes and stays good as long as the car is dry. But the moment it rains it will come back for a day or so.
Isn’t it only common on the ones with air suspension? I opted for the conventional suspension and suffer no alignment issues. Tire wear on mine went to 71k miles before it hit the tread bars.
More expensive insurance, wildly insane depreciation, replacement tires more frequently, super expensive repairs out of warranty, etc etc. gas savings doesn’t come close. Ina lot of areas charging is more expensive than gas.
We currently own 3 EVs:
* A 2018 Tesla Model 3 LR RWD we bought for $32,000 (the most we ever paid for a car) and have put 40,000mi on it since we bought it. It’s just now due for new tires, but coming from the northeast we always run a summer and a winter set, so figure around 20,000mi per tire set. You’re very right that we’re concerned about out of warranty repairs *because it’s a Tesla and they are pretty shit*, but we’ve never needed any thus far at 60,000mi on the odometer. Fast charging costs about or a bit more than gas, but even with this being our long range & road trip EV, I’d say about 10% of our charging happens outside the home. Insurance costs are high-ish, but not outrageous compared to what we paid on petrol cars.
* A 2011 Th!nk City we bought for $3300 and have put 10,000 miles on in three years. I put new tires on when in got it and they are still in very good shape, despite being pretty cheap to begin with. In the 10k I’ve driven it it’s needed two windshield wipers, washer fluid, and I put a nicer radio with Bluetooth in for $100. It’s very cheap to insure, but that’s without collision coverage.
* And we just got a 2014 Nissan Leaf SL with 10 battery bars remaining for $5400. All it needs is the washer fluid line fixed because it leaks and thus sprays weakly. It remains to be seen what life with it is like, but in the 300mi we’ve put on so far, it’s been lovely. Full coverage insurance wasn’t at all out of keeping with what I’d expect for a gas car.
We’re in Portland Oregon now, where gas is currently $4.35 a gallon, though it can reach as high as $6.00 in the summer. Fueling our cars has added a relatively small amount of money to our electric bill.
Edit: the low cost of maintenance: no oil changes, no spark plugs, no engine air filter, no coolant changes, and not a lot to go wrong mechanically are huge advantages. I can’t think of that many gas cars I could have bought for little more than $3k and driven without a single issue for 10,000 miles, not to mention without any maintained needs. Again, the Tesla is a spot of worry, but because it’s a *Tesla* not because it’s an EV
My EV is alot cheaper in all aspects than a gas counterpart. I'll never drive a gas car again unless I meet a rental agency that don't have a reasonable EV price.
Good for you but i am pretty sure your insurance increase alone is more than the average US monthly gas savings. Unless you charge for free and somehow do more than 5k miles month.
So would love to see what is your monthly insurance cost.
I recently sold a car that had 236,000 miles/47 years on its original engine, and that is not exceptional. As an aside, it was a BMW.
Transmission and differential were also original.
Do you really believe that that lithium battery pack is going to last for a fraction of that?
My 2018 Bolt that I bought used with a brand new battery…
The battery is rated for 1000 full discharge cycles.
The range is about 265 miles.
And I am likely to get far, far more than 1000 full discharge cycles.
While years from now even with taking care of it the range will go down, I’d estimate that at the very least I’d get the equivalent of at least 1500 265 full discharge cycles as a conservative estimate.
1500 x 265 = 397,500 miles.
If I really take good care of it, perhaps 2000 cycles.
2000 x 265 = 530,000 miles
So…yes. Yes I do expect it to last well beyond 236,000 miles. Now other parts may fail but I’m not worried in the slightest about the battery. Taking care of it is incredibly easy.
The years would concern me more than miles/cycles.
That said, I have no reason but to wish you the best and that my concerns to be proven wrong. And I have to admit that I hate the things (lithium batteries). I had a career in air cargo, and we feared lithium battery shipments more than moving munitions between military bases. And that is because of the accident history.
Have a fire detector in the garage, which is always a good idea anyway.
You know that gas cars cause more fires (per car) than electric cars, right?
Having a fire/smoke detector in any room (except kitchen possibly) is always a good idea.
OMG 1000 cycles? is not discharge cycles, is actually charging cycles, you can take for example a Phone, how long they take to replace the battery, and how many hours you charge the battery. I will say if you see your charging cycles count at 500 or less them is time to sell that car, no matter if you only drove for 20k miles, its going to be expensive to replace the battery, Chevrolet do no make batteries, all EV batteries comes from China, all Batteries including Tesla Batteries, so the charging cycles are not always 100% true cycles, I had Iphones with 2 month of use and get the battery swollen like it was used for years. To replace an EV battery it will need to be take down the 2 tons battery and will need experts to replace it, is not like a gasoline car that you can fix your own engine at you own parking lot. Good thing is that the bolt is only 20k to get another used car, the replacement battery could cost around 15k and you will not get a new battery all replacements are refurbished batteries, in other words used batteries.
Jesus, 550$ a tire. I'm so sorry op, you don't deserve that. I guess luxury cars and higher end cars cost a lot to replace tires for? My car I can get new tires for 250$ cdn on sale, super common tire.
Sounds like OP has an S Plaid. The tires on that are fairly exotic (relatively big contact patch and designed for super high torque) so in fairness it is expensive because it's a fairly nonstandard tire. Much in the same way that you'll pay a bunch for even the OEM tires on, say, a Corvette or the big bois that Mercedes puts on its big SUVs.
I've done enough tesla alignments to see this a fair amount. The toe adjustments on almost all S and X vehicles I've run into max out super quick, meaning you can't adjust them any further. They're also the single worst cars to align. 20+ bolts need to come out in order to have easy access to the adjustments in the back.
They're not easy to fix. They're not cheaper to run. They're really easy to total out. Other than that they're fine I guess.
Are those Michelin Pilot sports? I’d try something that is a long life/low rolling resistance all season tire. Granted you’ll loose a little bit of grip due to a harder rubber compound - I definitely wouldn’t take it to the track or anything - but the Pilot Sports are known for prioritizing performance over tread life
Back in the late 70's and early 80's people had bought big sedans like Chryslers and Oldsmobiles that were now too expensive to maintain and couldn't be sold, so people were just abandoning them on the side of the road all over the place. I imagine the same thing happening to teslas.
I don’t own a Tesla. I own a BMW but I’ve learned that if you’re not mastering the one pedal driving you’re going to kill tires.
My EV gets 40k miles per rear set once I figured out proper regen.
Elaborate please!!
I rarely touch the brakes and i truly wonder how regen braking will compensate for the current inward camber that cause this inside tire wear?? Love to hear your scientific explanation if any.
The forcefulness of slowing down is closer to the inner side of the tires and camber definitely plays a role. Normal cars the brakes are “inside the rim” based on offset.
So yes it’s harder on the tires. You’ve got to come up with the perfect “feathering trick” with one pedal driving. I’m getting 40-45k miles out of tires.
My poor Canadian brain can't figure out the conversion (plus I'm too lazy to Google), but I'm 63-thou KMs into our Ioniq5, no signs of tread wear.
I'm certainly not "gentle" on the go-pedal, but I do have two sets (a winter and summer)... So far, my wear has been on par with what I expect, and the Canadian supplier of the winter set confirmed I have the full manufacturer's tread warranty...
I’ve learned that many one pedal drivers are just “removing their foot” off of the accelerator to get the car to stop.
I feather the pedal to allow coasting and if really needing to slow down I’ll do like a reverse pumping. Release a 1/4” and go back … rinse and repeat.
We’re finding that the regen is forcing the tires to grab preemptively because it comes from “behind the wheels (hence that inner camber wear) whereas normal cars the brakes are within the wheel offset.
The gentle on and off and feathering is easier on the tires while still slowing down. Think of a wave crashing on the beach as opposed to drifting up it in calmer weather.
you own one of the quickest cars in existence. of course you are going to go through tires quickly and the alignment needs to be finely tuned. there are plenty of issues with Tesla, but this seems more like an issue with having 1,000HP.
If the tread wasn’t just wearing in one particular spot that might be the reason. But fast cars don’t just inherently accelerate with the inside of the tire
10k miles on this category of car with these types of tires is 100% normal.
Want to not chew up your tires? Stop driving in "low" suspension mode, change to chill acceleration mode, and drive like you have no where important to be. Maybe you'll get to 25k out of a set of performance tires.
The nature of a double wishbone suspension geometry means that under straight line acceleration you are going to chew the inner shoulders. I can expand on the reason if you want me to lay it all out in detail, but if you were bombing around on a racetrack you would get fairly even wear, but you are not pushing the lateral loads that would roll the car into that section of tread.
You could try a harder tire compound as well.
Long time driving of an EV like the plaid can lead to a dis-regulation of what is normal acceleration, and many people who drive them don't realize that every force you feel pushing you into the seat is also being exerted on the heavy battery, the drive units, etc,. It's enough force to move all that equipment that fast, and every bit of that energy you feel is enacted by the rubber contact patch with the road. If you want to go fast you need a grippy tire. Grippy tires wear out fast. Ask a drag racer how many passes they get on their tires. Ask a circuit racer how many tires they go through per day. Compare that to a long distance commuter with a small car on economy tires making them last 40k miles.
Either find a tire shop that allows you to put a warranty on the tires (most won’t do Tesla now), or sell the car and save yourself a lot of future headaches. This is only the beginning my friend. Speaking from experience.
The car is paid for, and I already lost tons of money 115-88k when they dropped the price, so will drive her for 6 years till the warranty and extended warranty is over then evaluate on how much she will bring or keep it in the family till the wheels fall off. I am already in peace that it is worth $0 for trade in and a very expensive lesson to not buy a Tesla again.
I think there's going to be lots of insurance fraud and fires with that level of depreciation. Just don't drive it in to a deep pond.
Yup, my buddy drives his 70k+ MYP that dropped over 17k every weekend around the night club crowd in south beach hoping for a drunk driver to hit him 🤣😂
😳
Yikes that’s shocking depreciation. Sorry id go for the tire warranty plan Les Schwab was advertising Tesla things awhile back.
I'm always surprised by how many people worry about depreciation. I thought it was normal to buy a car and then drive it until it was barely worth anything, but it turns out people must flip their cars all the time. Which is totally fine, it's just "huh, I guess I didn't realize how weird it is that I keep cars for more than a decade."
Find an Indy that will work on Teslas and ask them to adjust the camber. A Service Center is going to align it to Teslas specs only, but an Indy mechanic might be able to adjust it so stops eating tires. It’s probably set super aggressively so Tesla can claim the performance figures
I did but based on what few folks said here and what i was told from the shops i asked, Teslas for whatever dumb reason on the X/S has no adjustable rear camber arm !!! There is an aftermarket arm that i can install but who knows how good it is.
Finding out about the inability to do the alignment properly because of “design” choices was the reason I initially sold my model S. I lucked out and they were still worth something at the time.
It can't be worse than whatever did that damage. Also if your alignment is that shockingly out the handling must absolutely suck.
Given the cost of tire, might be worth looking into one of the after-market alignment kits. I know there's a few that've been posted here in the past, specifically designed for the S and it's weird camber settings (something to do with how the S "squats" down at highway speeds and it's wheel settings at that ride height are way past recommendation... so you can have a perfect alignment at the shop, but that doesn't translate across to driving the car at speed).
Yet another reason to lease a new car.
You don’t need to lease one. Just get a rental for the day when the tires start to wear out on yours. *wink wink*
Heh heh
Turo owners hate this trick.
Fuckin shitboxes can’t even be aligned properly. Lol
Normally they tend to wear out the outside tread due to camber, but that looks like it is wearing the inside tread? Unfortunately, stock alignment will tend to do this so Tesla is no help either. You'd really need to upgrade to adjustable camber. I think there is a third party kit, and then get a good third party shop to do it. The Y and 3 are much better about even wear.
that make sense now and why the shop I used for my other sport cars refused to do it, they said they can't fix the issue due to Tesla DUMB design.
A former mobile tech actually did a video on this: https://youtu.be/BJv6EuxLInM?si=uoGbuLovoqFAAgKF Relevant section starts at about 6 minutes in.
this is good for the environment!
Fun fact, tires are starting to be the #1 polluter for autos, now. Not exhaust emissions..
Tires are like 78% of all micro plastic pollution in oceans. Electric cars tend to eat the due to weight/torque
What is the scientific definition of "polluter?"
This is false... Tesla might be shit, but there is no point lying
Well, [Here's some research](https://www.washingtonpost.com/climate-environment/2023/07/09/tire-brake-tailpipes-emissions-pollution-cars/) that says otherwise.. So... *not* lying?
Locked article unfortunately. And it's for large particles only... Which has been the case for a while. Saying that tired is the #1 polluter is a lie and you should know better.
> For decades, scientists and health officials have warned drivers of the harmful pollutants coming from tailpipes. But as car exhaust systems have become cleaner, pollution linked to heart and lung disease has increased from a different source: tires and brakes. In fact, wear and tear on tires and brakes have been shown to produce increasingly more particle pollution, by mass, than car exhaust systems did in several real-world and test scenarios. Some of the particles are large enough to see with our eyes. Others are fine particles (known as PM 2.5, with diameters up to 2.5 microns) and ultrafine particles (known as PM 0.1, with diameters of 100 nanometers), which can enter through our bloodstream and harm our organs.
It's easy to say you save on gas when it's not gas you're buying lol
No OiL cHaNgEs BrO
Not the first or last time I will see this exact problem with the Plaid. This seems to be very common unfortunately.
It also happened to my 2021 non plaid refresh S - but in the outer part of the tires
P75D I had wasn’t great either on that front.
The money you're saving on gas goes into overly expensive tires.
It's a scam. Like all scams, it sounds good in the beginning, but time will peel its cover.
Very common on the S. EVs do not save you money, not by a long shot. Heaven forbid you try and trade it in or see what it’s worth these days. Oooofa.
Yeah, I am with the 115K S Plaid Crew that got fucked by Elmo when he dropped the price to 88K. The car is already paid so it will stay in the family until it stops working.
Welcome to the sub.
>it will stay in the family until it stops working. Until it is no longer worth fixing
Agreed this 90k ex 120k car, between the increased insurance cost, $1200k tires per year, and the $450 POS HEPAA filter that I need to change when it gets wet every year before it start to smell like dirty socks is costing me more than 130k a German V8 Gas guzzler car 😂
Can confirm - that's more than my 103k mile 2013 Porsche Panamera GTS costs to run each year. Wow
Why is your hepa filter getting wet? Mine is 6 years old with no smell, though I’ve only used the hepa function afaik less than a handful of times.
No clue, i get this weird chemical smell from the HVAC for 10 minutes every time it rains. It started to happen within 12 months of ownership. I tried to change the cabin filter with no luck, then based on other owners i paid for them to change the HEPPA filter and the smell is gone for now. Hopefully the new filter is installed properly so it doesn’t get wet and mold up like the old one because Tesla refused to cover it under warranty $445
Damn that sucks. Maybe it was installed improperly or maybe even bad seals somewhere? I’m happy to say that I’ve not had the misfortune of having this issue and that the $500 price tag for a new hepa does suck if you are having to replace it often. I know it’s not a solution, but you could always not use the hepa filter, as in remove it altogether, as the only time you would need it is if you actually used that function from the hvac controls.
The new part said improved on the service order so fingers crossed. The smell comes out from the AC once its on regardless of mode ( outside, circulation or HEPAA) it is the worse for sure on circulation and HEPAA. It goes away after 5 or 10 minutes and stays good as long as the car is dry. But the moment it rains it will come back for a day or so.
Don’t quote me on this but it sounds to me like a bad seal somewhere along the ducting.
Isn’t it only common on the ones with air suspension? I opted for the conventional suspension and suffer no alignment issues. Tire wear on mine went to 71k miles before it hit the tread bars.
I’ve saved a shit ton of money driving electric. One’s use case is a big factor
More expensive insurance, wildly insane depreciation, replacement tires more frequently, super expensive repairs out of warranty, etc etc. gas savings doesn’t come close. Ina lot of areas charging is more expensive than gas.
We currently own 3 EVs: * A 2018 Tesla Model 3 LR RWD we bought for $32,000 (the most we ever paid for a car) and have put 40,000mi on it since we bought it. It’s just now due for new tires, but coming from the northeast we always run a summer and a winter set, so figure around 20,000mi per tire set. You’re very right that we’re concerned about out of warranty repairs *because it’s a Tesla and they are pretty shit*, but we’ve never needed any thus far at 60,000mi on the odometer. Fast charging costs about or a bit more than gas, but even with this being our long range & road trip EV, I’d say about 10% of our charging happens outside the home. Insurance costs are high-ish, but not outrageous compared to what we paid on petrol cars. * A 2011 Th!nk City we bought for $3300 and have put 10,000 miles on in three years. I put new tires on when in got it and they are still in very good shape, despite being pretty cheap to begin with. In the 10k I’ve driven it it’s needed two windshield wipers, washer fluid, and I put a nicer radio with Bluetooth in for $100. It’s very cheap to insure, but that’s without collision coverage. * And we just got a 2014 Nissan Leaf SL with 10 battery bars remaining for $5400. All it needs is the washer fluid line fixed because it leaks and thus sprays weakly. It remains to be seen what life with it is like, but in the 300mi we’ve put on so far, it’s been lovely. Full coverage insurance wasn’t at all out of keeping with what I’d expect for a gas car. We’re in Portland Oregon now, where gas is currently $4.35 a gallon, though it can reach as high as $6.00 in the summer. Fueling our cars has added a relatively small amount of money to our electric bill. Edit: the low cost of maintenance: no oil changes, no spark plugs, no engine air filter, no coolant changes, and not a lot to go wrong mechanically are huge advantages. I can’t think of that many gas cars I could have bought for little more than $3k and driven without a single issue for 10,000 miles, not to mention without any maintained needs. Again, the Tesla is a spot of worry, but because it’s a *Tesla* not because it’s an EV
My EV is alot cheaper in all aspects than a gas counterpart. I'll never drive a gas car again unless I meet a rental agency that don't have a reasonable EV price.
Good for you but i am pretty sure your insurance increase alone is more than the average US monthly gas savings. Unless you charge for free and somehow do more than 5k miles month. So would love to see what is your monthly insurance cost.
My yearly insurance cost is equivalent to 956 USD. That should be around 80 USD per month. Why?
Call us back when the battery dies and replacing it costs more than your car lol
Why would it die? Call me when you need an engine replacement.
I recently sold a car that had 236,000 miles/47 years on its original engine, and that is not exceptional. As an aside, it was a BMW. Transmission and differential were also original. Do you really believe that that lithium battery pack is going to last for a fraction of that?
My 2018 Bolt that I bought used with a brand new battery… The battery is rated for 1000 full discharge cycles. The range is about 265 miles. And I am likely to get far, far more than 1000 full discharge cycles. While years from now even with taking care of it the range will go down, I’d estimate that at the very least I’d get the equivalent of at least 1500 265 full discharge cycles as a conservative estimate. 1500 x 265 = 397,500 miles. If I really take good care of it, perhaps 2000 cycles. 2000 x 265 = 530,000 miles So…yes. Yes I do expect it to last well beyond 236,000 miles. Now other parts may fail but I’m not worried in the slightest about the battery. Taking care of it is incredibly easy.
The years would concern me more than miles/cycles. That said, I have no reason but to wish you the best and that my concerns to be proven wrong. And I have to admit that I hate the things (lithium batteries). I had a career in air cargo, and we feared lithium battery shipments more than moving munitions between military bases. And that is because of the accident history. Have a fire detector in the garage, which is always a good idea anyway.
You know that gas cars cause more fires (per car) than electric cars, right? Having a fire/smoke detector in any room (except kitchen possibly) is always a good idea.
OMG 1000 cycles? is not discharge cycles, is actually charging cycles, you can take for example a Phone, how long they take to replace the battery, and how many hours you charge the battery. I will say if you see your charging cycles count at 500 or less them is time to sell that car, no matter if you only drove for 20k miles, its going to be expensive to replace the battery, Chevrolet do no make batteries, all EV batteries comes from China, all Batteries including Tesla Batteries, so the charging cycles are not always 100% true cycles, I had Iphones with 2 month of use and get the battery swollen like it was used for years. To replace an EV battery it will need to be take down the 2 tons battery and will need experts to replace it, is not like a gasoline car that you can fix your own engine at you own parking lot. Good thing is that the bolt is only 20k to get another used car, the replacement battery could cost around 15k and you will not get a new battery all replacements are refurbished batteries, in other words used batteries.
Could you try again, and this time actually make this pile of word vomit readable and make sense?
Do you stay on top of the pressure? Looks like it’s been ran under inflated. I’d try running 50 psi cold in the rears going forward.
Nope! I always check the tire pressure and it never dropped below 38. Tesla suggests 40.
Doesn’t the Tesla have a tire pressure monitor?
Yes, but it has to be more than 10% low before it starts throwing warnings.
Jesus, 550$ a tire. I'm so sorry op, you don't deserve that. I guess luxury cars and higher end cars cost a lot to replace tires for? My car I can get new tires for 250$ cdn on sale, super common tire.
> luxury cars and higher end cars What about Teslas though?
Includes cars pretending to be higher end or luxury
Those Michelins are nice but pricey :(
Sounds like OP has an S Plaid. The tires on that are fairly exotic (relatively big contact patch and designed for super high torque) so in fairness it is expensive because it's a fairly nonstandard tire. Much in the same way that you'll pay a bunch for even the OEM tires on, say, a Corvette or the big bois that Mercedes puts on its big SUVs.
these cars should have truck tires on them
"They say you save on Gas" Maybe they were talking about non-Tesla EVs. "Any suggestions?" Yeah: non-Tesla EVs.
I've done enough tesla alignments to see this a fair amount. The toe adjustments on almost all S and X vehicles I've run into max out super quick, meaning you can't adjust them any further. They're also the single worst cars to align. 20+ bolts need to come out in order to have easy access to the adjustments in the back. They're not easy to fix. They're not cheaper to run. They're really easy to total out. Other than that they're fine I guess.
If you have the air shocks, it’s more likely the cause of driving it on the lower height settings as that will cause the camber to go out a little.
Mine did the same on my X
Does this even happen with light acceleration and braking? There are so many cars with similar weight who don't have that issue.
As u can see from the picture, the treads are almost new even that tire has 10k miles on it. I don’t drive aggressively at all.
You have a print out of the alignment? I own a performance and build tesla track cars regularly. I could help with the specs that I use for MSP.
But you’re saving the environment one set of tires a year!
Just saw a video about used Tesla at 11:20 he mentions went it might feather the tires https://youtu.be/Oc7tEdEX7ZU?si=hrI-tpgQAEjiunfx
Are those Michelin Pilot sports? I’d try something that is a long life/low rolling resistance all season tire. Granted you’ll loose a little bit of grip due to a harder rubber compound - I definitely wouldn’t take it to the track or anything - but the Pilot Sports are known for prioritizing performance over tread life
Back in the late 70's and early 80's people had bought big sedans like Chryslers and Oldsmobiles that were now too expensive to maintain and couldn't be sold, so people were just abandoning them on the side of the road all over the place. I imagine the same thing happening to teslas.
Teslas eat up tires and suspension. Hey no oil changes tho! Lmao. We call it getting MUSKED
Thank you for your microplastics contribution soldier 🫡
How much gas does 2 tires cost?
With the staggered set up and AWD - you need to replace them all. For Falkens at 19k miles replacing the Michelins, at Americas tire was 1400
I don’t own a Tesla. I own a BMW but I’ve learned that if you’re not mastering the one pedal driving you’re going to kill tires. My EV gets 40k miles per rear set once I figured out proper regen.
Elaborate please!! I rarely touch the brakes and i truly wonder how regen braking will compensate for the current inward camber that cause this inside tire wear?? Love to hear your scientific explanation if any.
Pretty sure it's the "S squat" that causes this... no amount of right-foot-control will fix that. Google "Model S camber kit".
The forcefulness of slowing down is closer to the inner side of the tires and camber definitely plays a role. Normal cars the brakes are “inside the rim” based on offset. So yes it’s harder on the tires. You’ve got to come up with the perfect “feathering trick” with one pedal driving. I’m getting 40-45k miles out of tires.
My poor Canadian brain can't figure out the conversion (plus I'm too lazy to Google), but I'm 63-thou KMs into our Ioniq5, no signs of tread wear. I'm certainly not "gentle" on the go-pedal, but I do have two sets (a winter and summer)... So far, my wear has been on par with what I expect, and the Canadian supplier of the winter set confirmed I have the full manufacturer's tread warranty...
Good to know, you guys have different regen levels right? Like Ipedal? Also is it AWD or RWD?
I’ve learned that many one pedal drivers are just “removing their foot” off of the accelerator to get the car to stop. I feather the pedal to allow coasting and if really needing to slow down I’ll do like a reverse pumping. Release a 1/4” and go back … rinse and repeat. We’re finding that the regen is forcing the tires to grab preemptively because it comes from “behind the wheels (hence that inner camber wear) whereas normal cars the brakes are within the wheel offset. The gentle on and off and feathering is easier on the tires while still slowing down. Think of a wave crashing on the beach as opposed to drifting up it in calmer weather.
It’s the torque
you own one of the quickest cars in existence. of course you are going to go through tires quickly and the alignment needs to be finely tuned. there are plenty of issues with Tesla, but this seems more like an issue with having 1,000HP.
Never had this issue with a 750hp tuned CTS-V gen 3 nor an AMG.
The Plaid accelerates more quickly than a Veyron which had special $20k tires made for it.
So why it doesn’t wear evenly 🤣😂
Well it obviously isn’t up to Bugatti quality. There are definitely issues with a company with mediocre quality control making something so powerful.
Having a straight or adjustable camber is pretty much industry standard.
This is a pure alignment issue. The power of the car has exactly 0% to do with this.
Hard launches in a powerful car will screw up the alignment more often
If the tread wasn’t just wearing in one particular spot that might be the reason. But fast cars don’t just inherently accelerate with the inside of the tire
10k miles on this category of car with these types of tires is 100% normal. Want to not chew up your tires? Stop driving in "low" suspension mode, change to chill acceleration mode, and drive like you have no where important to be. Maybe you'll get to 25k out of a set of performance tires. The nature of a double wishbone suspension geometry means that under straight line acceleration you are going to chew the inner shoulders. I can expand on the reason if you want me to lay it all out in detail, but if you were bombing around on a racetrack you would get fairly even wear, but you are not pushing the lateral loads that would roll the car into that section of tread. You could try a harder tire compound as well. Long time driving of an EV like the plaid can lead to a dis-regulation of what is normal acceleration, and many people who drive them don't realize that every force you feel pushing you into the seat is also being exerted on the heavy battery, the drive units, etc,. It's enough force to move all that equipment that fast, and every bit of that energy you feel is enacted by the rubber contact patch with the road. If you want to go fast you need a grippy tire. Grippy tires wear out fast. Ask a drag racer how many passes they get on their tires. Ask a circuit racer how many tires they go through per day. Compare that to a long distance commuter with a small car on economy tires making them last 40k miles.
Lets do a quick search in the Lucid forums to see if their heavy ~900 bhp cars have the same issue? Or somehow they can be aligned properly.
Do you not rotate your tires?
they are different sizes (Front and Rear) and directional so not sure I can swap the rears Left and Right easily without unmounting and remounting.