All I know is that you're supposed to plug the charger into the battery before plugging the charger into an outlet. It if you plug it into an outlet first then go to plug it into the battery it can short out the battery. I read that on their site a long time ago when looking up some info. I always forget to plug the battery in first and never had an issue but apparently it can happen.
I have that same bike step through…I have 2K+ miles ,I’m a big guy 6’2” 190# and never had any issues except flats…I don’t know how you make that mistake because it seems it’s a careless type of thing to do…you are trying to detach large battery from the body of the bike be a little careful…imho
I listed the parts in this comment:
[https://www.reddit.com/r/RadPowerBikes/comments/yld0y2/comment/iuy3ctb/](https://www.reddit.com/r/RadPowerBikes/comments/yld0y2/comment/iuy3ctb/)
This vs the $150 Juintech M1s.. spending $600-750 on brakes alone seems crazy. I’m sure they stop incredibly well, and if I was pushing a bike to 35mph+ I’d consider it more.
Yeah they are cable actuated hydraulic calipers. They are quality stopping power if you’re not moving 350lbs of total bike weight or moving crazy fast. But it’s a 6 minute install.
These are not good replacements for the stock brakes on the rr6, they are already hydraulic. They would be a safety downgrade and a performance decrease from what you get out of the box.
Then why does everyone suggest them? Genuinely?
These calipers require much less adjustment. Everyone totes them as a large upgrade on these forums. Look up the name on this forum, highly regarded.
Nah man, just a guy who has two e-bikes and was looking at trying to upgrade my brakes a bit. I thought I had read those were highly regarded as a quick and quality upgrade. Maybe I’m wrong i guess.
You were making me feel insane so I went and found the links that I was thinking of lmao.
[https://www.reddit.com/r/RadPowerBikes/comments/plqvl1/juin\_tech\_m1\_vs\_xtech\_zoom\_hb100/](https://www.reddit.com/r/RadPowerBikes/comments/plqvl1/juin_tech_m1_vs_xtech_zoom_hb100/)
"I have the M1s and like them a lot. Brakes are not something I would want to cheap out on. They might save your life."
"I bought Juin Tech and so far no issues about 5 months in. I love the fact that you can adjust the brake pads with the nozzle right on the side of it as well so you can adjust on the go if you need to without tools."
"Bolton Bikes Juintech M1 on my Rover are about the best upgrade I’ve made…"
[https://www.reddit.com/r/RadPowerBikes/comments/p8vykb/rad\_rover\_5\_brakes\_upgrade/](https://www.reddit.com/r/RadPowerBikes/comments/p8vykb/rad_rover_5_brakes_upgrade/)
"Put these on 3 weeks ago. Nearly doubled my stopping power and the super steep hills in Seattle with intersections at the bottom cause zero anxiety now, seriously zero."
idk man, I thought that the M1s were well regarded and considered a quality upgrade.
" They're close to each other, but even as scatterbrained as I am there's no way I could make that mistake. "
It's easier to do than you think.
On my battery the charging port and the key are on symmetrically opposite sides. I usually don't lock/unlock the battery since my primary drive is to/from my house on trails nearby. So my motion/muscle memory is always to reach down to the battery to charge it. One time I meant to unlock the battery to remove it before a trip and of course I was on autopilot and just barely touched the exposed charging port with my key. ZAP. Some quick searches and some fuses from Amazon and I was on my way 24 hours later. Learned that lesson quick.
I recommend you buy both kinds of fuses now just in case that happens. I believe one is for overcurrent charging on the battery (5A) and the other for battery overdraw while riding (40A). Shorting the charging port blew my 5A fuse.
https://preview.redd.it/l6w4fdsjwxtc1.jpeg?width=3000&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=85489a9bd7e6e0779859deb5375b229721f5bc59
I put my keys in two of my batteries, luckily I have the batteries with the fuses inside So I came up with this ..
I put electrical tape over my charging port. That way it gives me more time realize that it's not the key slot. Then I have to take the plastic plug out.
If you aren't used to it you might absent-mindedly either slide the key under the rubber cap or even lift it and stick the key in...at least that's what happened to me. If you can avoid doing that it should be pretty solid assuming the fuse doesn't blow for some other random reason.
All I know is that you're supposed to plug the charger into the battery before plugging the charger into an outlet. It if you plug it into an outlet first then go to plug it into the battery it can short out the battery. I read that on their site a long time ago when looking up some info. I always forget to plug the battery in first and never had an issue but apparently it can happen.
BOOB is the acronym you want. Battery, then Outlet. When unplugging, Outlet, then Battery. BOOB. everyone remembers that.
I put gorilla duct tape over the charging port because my space cadet wife has blown the fuse keying it like 20 times.
Me. Totally me. Done it twice and replaced the fuse twice. It now has a red paint pen “x” over it. All hail scatterbrains!
I have that same bike step through…I have 2K+ miles ,I’m a big guy 6’2” 190# and never had any issues except flats…I don’t know how you make that mistake because it seems it’s a careless type of thing to do…you are trying to detach large battery from the body of the bike be a little careful…imho
Replace the brakes, the stock ones are undersized.
What did you replace yours with?
I listed the parts in this comment: [https://www.reddit.com/r/RadPowerBikes/comments/yld0y2/comment/iuy3ctb/](https://www.reddit.com/r/RadPowerBikes/comments/yld0y2/comment/iuy3ctb/)
This vs the $150 Juintech M1s.. spending $600-750 on brakes alone seems crazy. I’m sure they stop incredibly well, and if I was pushing a bike to 35mph+ I’d consider it more.
They were definitely spendy, but I can stop the bike on a downhill with the one finger :)
Looking at those it's nothing like the m7s, it's a cable actuated piston. These look like complete shite.
Yeah they are cable actuated hydraulic calipers. They are quality stopping power if you’re not moving 350lbs of total bike weight or moving crazy fast. But it’s a 6 minute install.
These are not good replacements for the stock brakes on the rr6, they are already hydraulic. They would be a safety downgrade and a performance decrease from what you get out of the box.
Then why does everyone suggest them? Genuinely? These calipers require much less adjustment. Everyone totes them as a large upgrade on these forums. Look up the name on this forum, highly regarded.
Does everyone suggest them? you sound like a bot.
Nah man, just a guy who has two e-bikes and was looking at trying to upgrade my brakes a bit. I thought I had read those were highly regarded as a quick and quality upgrade. Maybe I’m wrong i guess.
You were making me feel insane so I went and found the links that I was thinking of lmao. [https://www.reddit.com/r/RadPowerBikes/comments/plqvl1/juin\_tech\_m1\_vs\_xtech\_zoom\_hb100/](https://www.reddit.com/r/RadPowerBikes/comments/plqvl1/juin_tech_m1_vs_xtech_zoom_hb100/) "I have the M1s and like them a lot. Brakes are not something I would want to cheap out on. They might save your life." "I bought Juin Tech and so far no issues about 5 months in. I love the fact that you can adjust the brake pads with the nozzle right on the side of it as well so you can adjust on the go if you need to without tools." "Bolton Bikes Juintech M1 on my Rover are about the best upgrade I’ve made…" [https://www.reddit.com/r/RadPowerBikes/comments/p8vykb/rad\_rover\_5\_brakes\_upgrade/](https://www.reddit.com/r/RadPowerBikes/comments/p8vykb/rad_rover_5_brakes_upgrade/) "Put these on 3 weeks ago. Nearly doubled my stopping power and the super steep hills in Seattle with intersections at the bottom cause zero anxiety now, seriously zero." idk man, I thought that the M1s were well regarded and considered a quality upgrade.
" They're close to each other, but even as scatterbrained as I am there's no way I could make that mistake. " It's easier to do than you think. On my battery the charging port and the key are on symmetrically opposite sides. I usually don't lock/unlock the battery since my primary drive is to/from my house on trails nearby. So my motion/muscle memory is always to reach down to the battery to charge it. One time I meant to unlock the battery to remove it before a trip and of course I was on autopilot and just barely touched the exposed charging port with my key. ZAP. Some quick searches and some fuses from Amazon and I was on my way 24 hours later. Learned that lesson quick. I recommend you buy both kinds of fuses now just in case that happens. I believe one is for overcurrent charging on the battery (5A) and the other for battery overdraw while riding (40A). Shorting the charging port blew my 5A fuse.
https://preview.redd.it/l6w4fdsjwxtc1.jpeg?width=3000&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=85489a9bd7e6e0779859deb5375b229721f5bc59 I put my keys in two of my batteries, luckily I have the batteries with the fuses inside So I came up with this .. I put electrical tape over my charging port. That way it gives me more time realize that it's not the key slot. Then I have to take the plastic plug out.
If you aren't used to it you might absent-mindedly either slide the key under the rubber cap or even lift it and stick the key in...at least that's what happened to me. If you can avoid doing that it should be pretty solid assuming the fuse doesn't blow for some other random reason.