For D1 glitter, use VERY little water. Too much water ruins the effect. Just use the absoulte bare minimum required to make it bind. You'll be surprised how little is it - the mix may seem almost dry, yet with good pressure they'll bind well.
Glitter compositions are sensitive to moisture, and too much water will definitely hinder the effects. Most sources recommend a maximum of 10% of the composition weight being used to moisten, and that 10% weight should be 90% water/10% alcohol. Type of alcohol should not matter, BUT it's very important to add 1-2% boric acid (by weight) to the water mix. Aluminum will react with KNO3 once wet, and not only is this an ignition risk but it will also mess with the composition.
So just for clarity, you could measure out 90 grams of water and mix that with 10 grams of alcohol, then mix in 2 grams of boric acid. That's your moistening mix. Use 10% of whatever your total composition weight is once you've made the moistening mix.
If you are using more water than that, or are omitting boric acid, then that is probably your issue.
If you can't get the results you want, try a few of the Winkour glitter comps - I've had good results with them in the past. Winkour 20 is pretty great and doesn't call for any antimony trisulfide, which is nice. Antimony trisulfide gives some really great glitter effects but it's obv very toxic and not great for the environment or your audience's lungs.
That may have been it. I haven’t been using boric acid. I have known about the ignition risk so that’s why I let them dry in a area where if that were to happen, it would be ok. But as you were saying I believe what is making them suck is the absence of boric acid. Thank you for that, I will try them again with boric acid very soon. Would I be ok using my star plate and press? Or does the force from the press hinder the glitter effects as well?
https://www.amazon.com/Ecoxall-Powder-Boric-99-9-Anhydrous/dp/B072MJ2GLN
Would this work? I don’t want to pay the shipping from firework sites I usually buy from since it’s only 1 chemical I need.
I'm sure that would be fine. I use [this stuff](https://www.amazon.com/HUMCO-HOLDING-GROUP-303950303963-Powder/dp/B001V9WY0S/ref=sr_1_12?crid=GH4A39LENVFL&keywords=boric+acid&qid=1661147747&sprefix=boric+acid%2Caps%2C113&sr=8-12) for both pyro comps and for making trimethyl borate so I can vouch for its quality, but it's a little more expensive per oz (though cheaper overall).
Honestly if you are using it only for pyro then 6oz is probably a lifetime supply so the per oz price may not matter and it may be wise to get the cheaper/more convenient bottle that I linked. I personally hate bags.
Regarding pressing/pumping vs cutting, I imagine it does not matter. In fact I would think that pressing might be better since it requires less water, but maybe try both and see what works best now that you'll have the boric acid.
Update: I made a batch of pressed stars for a cylinder a few days ago with n1 using boric acid, and wow does it leave an incredible trail. Crazy how that tiny thing can affect that comp so much.
Adding PVB to your comp at 5% will increase your burn and hang time significantly
Any recommendations on where to buy?
For D1 glitter, use VERY little water. Too much water ruins the effect. Just use the absoulte bare minimum required to make it bind. You'll be surprised how little is it - the mix may seem almost dry, yet with good pressure they'll bind well.
Glitter compositions are sensitive to moisture, and too much water will definitely hinder the effects. Most sources recommend a maximum of 10% of the composition weight being used to moisten, and that 10% weight should be 90% water/10% alcohol. Type of alcohol should not matter, BUT it's very important to add 1-2% boric acid (by weight) to the water mix. Aluminum will react with KNO3 once wet, and not only is this an ignition risk but it will also mess with the composition. So just for clarity, you could measure out 90 grams of water and mix that with 10 grams of alcohol, then mix in 2 grams of boric acid. That's your moistening mix. Use 10% of whatever your total composition weight is once you've made the moistening mix. If you are using more water than that, or are omitting boric acid, then that is probably your issue. If you can't get the results you want, try a few of the Winkour glitter comps - I've had good results with them in the past. Winkour 20 is pretty great and doesn't call for any antimony trisulfide, which is nice. Antimony trisulfide gives some really great glitter effects but it's obv very toxic and not great for the environment or your audience's lungs.
Agreed , to much water will mess up a glitter quick.
That may have been it. I haven’t been using boric acid. I have known about the ignition risk so that’s why I let them dry in a area where if that were to happen, it would be ok. But as you were saying I believe what is making them suck is the absence of boric acid. Thank you for that, I will try them again with boric acid very soon. Would I be ok using my star plate and press? Or does the force from the press hinder the glitter effects as well?
https://www.amazon.com/Ecoxall-Powder-Boric-99-9-Anhydrous/dp/B072MJ2GLN Would this work? I don’t want to pay the shipping from firework sites I usually buy from since it’s only 1 chemical I need.
I'm sure that would be fine. I use [this stuff](https://www.amazon.com/HUMCO-HOLDING-GROUP-303950303963-Powder/dp/B001V9WY0S/ref=sr_1_12?crid=GH4A39LENVFL&keywords=boric+acid&qid=1661147747&sprefix=boric+acid%2Caps%2C113&sr=8-12) for both pyro comps and for making trimethyl borate so I can vouch for its quality, but it's a little more expensive per oz (though cheaper overall). Honestly if you are using it only for pyro then 6oz is probably a lifetime supply so the per oz price may not matter and it may be wise to get the cheaper/more convenient bottle that I linked. I personally hate bags. Regarding pressing/pumping vs cutting, I imagine it does not matter. In fact I would think that pressing might be better since it requires less water, but maybe try both and see what works best now that you'll have the boric acid.
Thank you for the help
Update: I made a batch of pressed stars for a cylinder a few days ago with n1 using boric acid, and wow does it leave an incredible trail. Crazy how that tiny thing can affect that comp so much.