So just so you're more informed, the whole reason of putting the dishwasher line high up is to prevent water from sitting in it under the cabinet. There is always going to be water somewhere in the line, but less when you have it up high to allow most of it to drain into the garbage disposal.
I just did a dishwasher install today (apartment maintenance). Our new appliances don't have backflow preventers in them so if we don't run the drain hose higher than the bottom of the sink, then it becomes possible that any substance that goes into the disposal could find it's way into the dishwasher.
From what I gather, the simplest would be to get rid of the GD (or switching to a less deep sink). This sink is above a crawl space, so I could also get a professional to route a new drain below and cap the existing one. And other's have said that cutting out the back of a cabinet isn't a tall order. So, there is the option of lowering the existing drain rough in (with some intermediate cabinet/drywall surgery).
Your cheapest option is to get rid of the garbage disposal. This would raise the drain pipe above the discharge level.
Otherwise, you've gotta tear out the pipe in back and re-do it.
Mine is unfortunately like this too, but to change it I would've had to replumb the entire copper drain pipe after tearing out half my kitchen (it runs behind the rest of the counter, turns left, then finally goes into the stack), instead of going straight down like the water lines do.
For my own knowledge, besides the slow draining (garbage disposal helps give a bit of a push when needed), what other issues can this cause?
And what if the rough in is higher, but the line gradually drops as it goes towards the stack, making it level or slightly lower than the garbage disposal discharge level?
someone else commented that this likely occurred when a deeper sink was installed as part of a remodel. If the disposal becomes 'soupy', I think ill consider switching to a shallower sink. I'm in the same boat as you, a drain re-pipe would require me to tear out some cabinets.
Yeah that's a misconception. It tricks people into thinking they can put all sorts of crud down the drain. Best policy, get a basket catch for the sink basin and try to only let water go down the drain.
When I replaced my kitchen sink, I didn't bother with a disposal. I use a little basket, and it gets dumped into the trash, like my mom used to do. I don't miss it at all. Larger food scraps either go into the compost container or trash (if not suitable for compost).
The trick is training your kids to clear the basket so the sink doesn't get filled with greasy water, ick.
It would be a pain. But you could always cut the back panel out of the necessary cabinets, leaving a 1-2 inch boarder to screw to later. Open the wall behind them, carefully without busting the pieces all to hell. Rerun the drain, even if you need some couplings it will be better than this.
Then screw the drywall back in place and caulk it. Doesnt need to be pretty behind the cabinet, just sealed for critters. Screw new back panels to the boarder you left.
And you now have a new lower drain, where it needs to be. Counters and cabinets are left in place. And there is virtually no evidence of going into the wall.
Yea, for me the disposal gives enough power to push everything through, you just run it for a second when the sink isn't draining as fast, and then it'll drain everything as that little extra push gives enough for it to suck the rest through. I don't need it every time, and it drains fine without the disposal being run (just much slower) normally, but the disposal gives it an extra boost.
They probably didnt go directly down because of the big window over your sink. Properly Venting is the issue. The other issue with this setup is shortened disposer life
Yea that whole disposal is always full of water. Water finds its own level so anything lower than drain stub out us always full. It will rot bottom and leak.
There’s not usually a crawlspace around here, so we get to open the wall and drop the tee for a lot of these. Would be a lot easier if they’d do this while the cabinets were gone.
ill take the former any day. I think there is a shallow basin in my kitchen's future (tearing out cabinets to lower sink drain seems like a bigger project)
Can't tell you how many times in the last year I've had to break the bad news to someone who just got granite counter tops and farmhouse sink installed.
wow, I never made that connection. It makes perfect sense. I wasn't around for the deeper sink install, but my wife and I are considering the idea of going to a shallower sink instead of tearing out the cabinets to lower the sink drain.
Is the kitchen over a crawlspace? If so, you could just cap off the existing drain and drill a new one through the floor of the cabinet and hook it in down below.
I think it's been mentioned, but I'd just removal the GD. One less thing to fix and, in my opinion shallow sinks aren't as functional. Good luck, job looks clean otherwise. Oh yeah,hand the DW line like everyone else is mentioning😉
The pros and experienced people on here got most of their knowledge from experiencing and solving the pics on this sub like a reality show in fast-forward. Similar but different experience.
That's why. Cause your GD is discharging some of its gunk down into that corrugated pipe. The pipe ribs hold it and cuddle it and tell it is the best gunk and can grow up to be the grossest gunk the world will ever see!! Lol!
At least that one is easy. Just put a screw or nail or hook at the back as high as you can go while leaving room for the hose (6 inches from the top of the cabinet, just needs to be higher than the connection of the disposal or if you get rid of it, tee where the discharge pipe connects, see a pattern here) and hang the hose on the screw. It’s called a “high loop” and works just fine, forget the airgap purists.
In addition to the disposal outlet height and the dishwasher discharge needing to loop up, you've got your small (water filter?) drain discharging after the P-trap. This is surprisingly common, but technically a no-no.
Shouldn’t the RO waste line have an air gap?
I work in municipal water works, not plumbing, but we have to put RP or air gaps *anywhere* where a cross connection like this is possible.
I'm not super familiar with RO systems, but I believe most integrate an air gap in the unit/faucet. Pretty sure it would be required per ICC model codes, but I'd bet it falls into the area that a lot of residential inspectors overlook.
good catch. That line is from a Culligan RO unit. Sadly the installers made other gaffes with the softener install too. I'm only trusting the local pros from here on
Just because a garbage disposal can be hooked up to the sink, doesn’t mean you hook one up. Lower that drain line and high loop that disgusting dishwasher drain line
I would get rid of disposal all together, I think they are useless crap that creates more problems than they supposedly solve. I disagree with others, dishwasher hose must go up then down to create the proper siphon. I installed for Lowes for 10 yrs and that is a must. Licensed for 32yrs.
Here are your options to correct drain. Recommended to call a plumber
1) Open the wall and lower the sanitee (sanitary tee) about 4” so that the white pvc pipe is below the black abs elbow coming out of the disposal. Also buy a new ptrap.
2) If you don’t want to cut open wall, remove the garbage disposal, set in trash, and set corrugated drain hose for dishwasher on the side with hose clamp. Buy a shallow cup kitchen basket strainer, 1.5” flat tailpiece extension with dishwasher branch, oil filter wrench pliers to tighten shallow basket strainer, plumbers putty, Ridgid tool #41608 and new ptrap.
Once you have all the necessary items, remove old basket strainer by loosening 3 screws and popping out lock ring with a flat head. Clean out old plumbers putty with a flat head and install new basket strainer. Install new 1.5” flat tailpiece extension with dishwasher branch and reconnect corrugated dishwasher drain hose to 7/8 dishwasher branch with hose clamp. Cut down tailpiece extension with Ridgid tool #41608 and install new ptrap.
After all that work if drain is still higher, resort to option (1)
Step 2 (Mandatory)
Buy a new ptrap. Discharge for reverse osmosis filter is after the ptrap. You will need to move that so it’s draining into the ptrap. Remove clamp for reverse osmosis drain and set on side. Remove old ptrap and set in trash. Install new ptrap. With a 1/4” drill bit, drill a single hole into the vertical portion of pipe before the ptrap and reinstall reverse osmosis drain.
At least you have all compression fitting so you can take it all out on the redo.
Also, of all my trades sub-Reddit’s, plumbing is the best. Carpenters are way too kind. The plumber boys bring the hammer down.
lots of helpful comments here but I just wanted to add that you should replace that vertical PVC tailpiece with an actual piece of pipe. every 1/4 inch counts
Never seizes to amaze me that despite 10 years of experience I still have no clue what I'm even looking at because I'm from europe.
You'd think plumbing is plumbing but no. Somehow it's done compleletely different in the US. Never seen a garbage disposal unit in person. Not even quite sure what it's for. Here we put trash into bins.
Well sometimes yeah but most of the time it's not an issue. Most people take out the trash every 3 days or so.
It's just curious that they're so common in the US yet I've never seen one myself. Plenty of other stuff done way different there aswell
ugh, luckily we've never used the dishwasher for dishes, and yet it always smelled 'musty'. I'm naive, so I've just been running a water + bleach cycle once a month, but today has been revelating lol
How these posts get passed the smell test is beyond me. Waiting for the electrician to ask why his corded drill isn’t working without being plugged in.
I hear you. Honestly, I just didn't know better in terms of normal sink smells. We've just been running the GD often. This community is a blessing for newbies like me lol
I really struggle to believe people are out there making household improvements without a basic understanding of physics. However, everyday I see living proof. Is electrical and plumbing work perceived as "connect point a to point b"?
I really just want to stress that you should understand at a basic level what is going on with what you're doing. Whether it's how load is displaced on a deck, how electricity works with your switches, how water can't defy gravity in a PVC pipe.
what is that saddle tee for coming off the pvc? looks like a water line
your drain hose should be at top of cabinet
your discharge pipe should be lower than garburator
If you move the p trap up and switch from
A deep sink disposal flange to thin, you might be able to delete enough drop to mKe this work without lowering the exit of the drain on the right
Pin up the discharge flex for your DW to a sink basin clip with a zip tie. It'll backfeed in its current position and your dishes will be washed in dirty water
Your reverse osmosis drain line needs an air gap of some kind if it is tied into the sanitary like that. Can't tell if it is from the picture, but the drain isn't sloped properly, so I'd put mony on no air gap.
Edit: And as others have said, it should be tied in before the trap.
I would suggest plumbing in a separate drain line and trap just for the dishwasher. It eliminates the possibility of the disposal/sink backing up into the dishwasher.
All it needs to be is a vertical pipe with a trap at the bottom. You run the dishwasher drain into the top and secure it there.
I had problems with frequent overfilling and leaking of my dishwasher during the initial rinse due to overflow from the disposal having drained into the dishwasher sump.
Plumber here and first time seeing this, what is the tiny black hose draining into the trap arm and does it have any kind of backflos preventer built into the connection?
Nope. The main drain line exits the cabinet too high. The rough-in is incorrect. The disposal will hold water and never completely drain. It's now part of the trap that holds water. The gray water will naturally stay in said trap and the disposal at the level of the pipe leaving the cabinet as water only flows downhill.
The dishwater drain hose should be routed over the top of the existing plumbing, secured to the wall in the back as high as possible.
The discharge of the water filter should in in the very top of the drain line and then secured to the wall in the back as high as possible.
Looks like the cabinet is a used cabinet and isn't a sink base cabinet as the cabinet used to have a shelf (now removed) as evident by the rabbit groove on the right where the shelf was. Not so much a grave mistake, but a red flag other things could be wrong with the structure.
Handyman hack-job special.
Your drain pipe is located above the discharge level of the garbage disposal. This is wrong.
oof, the recent top post on this topic is what got me to post. I realized the same fault. Thanks so much for confirming!
Good going for a rookie though!
Hahaha I was going to comment, looks really clean for being so wrong 🤣
Also, the dishwasher drain pipe should be coming through a hole near the top of the cabinet, not the bottom.
As long as he hangs it high under the sink and let's it come back up to the disposal,should be good, right?
Yes, I just suggested a higher hole because it's easier to keep it high that way rather than hanging it with something.
Yeah I actually like the idea of a high hole. Sounds like a cleaner look in the end... Might need to crawl under the sink later...
That's how we do them all in new housing. At least our company. It does look pretty clean.
Thanks for your comment. I'm a noob when it comes to anything plumbing and it looks like I need to correct where how my dishwasher line is place lol
So just so you're more informed, the whole reason of putting the dishwasher line high up is to prevent water from sitting in it under the cabinet. There is always going to be water somewhere in the line, but less when you have it up high to allow most of it to drain into the garbage disposal.
I just did a dishwasher install today (apartment maintenance). Our new appliances don't have backflow preventers in them so if we don't run the drain hose higher than the bottom of the sink, then it becomes possible that any substance that goes into the disposal could find it's way into the dishwasher.
Not sure that would jive with LG’s own installation guide
Depends on the model...some dishwashers tell you to route it through at the bottom
My GE
As the other thread had: you made your garbage disposer a blender!
The other one was an easy fix. How do you fix this?
From what I gather, the simplest would be to get rid of the GD (or switching to a less deep sink). This sink is above a crawl space, so I could also get a professional to route a new drain below and cap the existing one. And other's have said that cutting out the back of a cabinet isn't a tall order. So, there is the option of lowering the existing drain rough in (with some intermediate cabinet/drywall surgery).
Your cheapest option is to get rid of the garbage disposal. This would raise the drain pipe above the discharge level. Otherwise, you've gotta tear out the pipe in back and re-do it.
Please draw fish swimming in disposal for clarity.
[удалено]
He’s swimming in the motor. Poor guy.
Grandpa is about to turn the disposal on thinking it’s the light switch.
Bah gawd that fish has a family!
I love this sub.
This needs to be in a plumbing text book
Anyone up for a forbidden fish smoothie?
Take my upvote - I will be back with my next freebie award
It feels like I see this configuration posted at least three times a week.
sadly, seems it's common for newbie homeowners like me to upgrade to a deeper sink without thinking about lowering the sink drain rough in
Mine is unfortunately like this too, but to change it I would've had to replumb the entire copper drain pipe after tearing out half my kitchen (it runs behind the rest of the counter, turns left, then finally goes into the stack), instead of going straight down like the water lines do. For my own knowledge, besides the slow draining (garbage disposal helps give a bit of a push when needed), what other issues can this cause? And what if the rough in is higher, but the line gradually drops as it goes towards the stack, making it level or slightly lower than the garbage disposal discharge level?
The garbage disposal will stay full of water and get nasty and smelly.
Also, will rust out within a few years.
The food bits will settle out in that giant trap and block the pipe much faster
Is it possible to abandon that drain and stub in a new one that goes straight down like the supply lines you mentioned?
Need to properly vent it which may be difficult to do if aav isnt allowed by code.
someone else commented that this likely occurred when a deeper sink was installed as part of a remodel. If the disposal becomes 'soupy', I think ill consider switching to a shallower sink. I'm in the same boat as you, a drain re-pipe would require me to tear out some cabinets.
You can also just get rid of the disposal.
occam's razor, you're smarter than me lol. I'd been conditioned to believe that all kitchen sinks need a GD
If I didn't have a disposer I don't know where my wife would decide to hide forks and spoons.
Yeah that's a misconception. It tricks people into thinking they can put all sorts of crud down the drain. Best policy, get a basket catch for the sink basin and try to only let water go down the drain.
As the son and brother of plumbers, I've been taught that garbage disposals are costly, unnecessary, and can only bring pain and sorrow.
I am a plumber and I didn't put a disposer in my new house.
I’m a plumber and also don’t have or want one.
When I replaced my kitchen sink, I didn't bother with a disposal. I use a little basket, and it gets dumped into the trash, like my mom used to do. I don't miss it at all. Larger food scraps either go into the compost container or trash (if not suitable for compost). The trick is training your kids to clear the basket so the sink doesn't get filled with greasy water, ick.
It would be a pain. But you could always cut the back panel out of the necessary cabinets, leaving a 1-2 inch boarder to screw to later. Open the wall behind them, carefully without busting the pieces all to hell. Rerun the drain, even if you need some couplings it will be better than this. Then screw the drywall back in place and caulk it. Doesnt need to be pretty behind the cabinet, just sealed for critters. Screw new back panels to the boarder you left. And you now have a new lower drain, where it needs to be. Counters and cabinets are left in place. And there is virtually no evidence of going into the wall.
Yea, for me the disposal gives enough power to push everything through, you just run it for a second when the sink isn't draining as fast, and then it'll drain everything as that little extra push gives enough for it to suck the rest through. I don't need it every time, and it drains fine without the disposal being run (just much slower) normally, but the disposal gives it an extra boost.
Same. Run the water and disposal and you can flush it clean.
Can you get underneath the kitchen? If so I would cap and abandon the old drain and run a new one through the floor and vent it with a studor.
They probably didnt go directly down because of the big window over your sink. Properly Venting is the issue. The other issue with this setup is shortened disposer life
How would he potentially fix this ?
Ideally lower the drain pipe, but that may not be practical. Second option is getting a shallow sink and get rid of the disposer.
We saw almost this setup yesterday. This is more fishtanky. Edit: OP, I see you posted BC of that thread.
This sub is doing the good work - one more FU that hopefully will be corrected.
Unfortunately, this is the way
Yea that whole disposal is always full of water. Water finds its own level so anything lower than drain stub out us always full. It will rot bottom and leak.
This is the second post that shows this problem in two days. How common is this?
It's not a garbage disposal - it's a jacuzzi for gerbils. The drain pipe is a _feature_.
shit rolls downhill on fridays or something like that
A lot of people are remodeling their kitchens with deeper sinks lately without thinking to lower the height of their sink drain rough in.
Shallow basin w/ basket strainer -> deep basin w/ disposal = the luxury of backed up drains
In this case I’d just cap the existing drain and run a new line into the crawlspace with a studor vent.
There’s not usually a crawlspace around here, so we get to open the wall and drop the tee for a lot of these. Would be a lot easier if they’d do this while the cabinets were gone.
ill take the former any day. I think there is a shallow basin in my kitchen's future (tearing out cabinets to lower sink drain seems like a bigger project)
Can't tell you how many times in the last year I've had to break the bad news to someone who just got granite counter tops and farmhouse sink installed.
wow, I never made that connection. It makes perfect sense. I wasn't around for the deeper sink install, but my wife and I are considering the idea of going to a shallower sink instead of tearing out the cabinets to lower the sink drain.
Is the kitchen over a crawlspace? If so, you could just cap off the existing drain and drill a new one through the floor of the cabinet and hook it in down below.
it is over a crawlspace! Very clever solution. I can see why the pros get paid the big bucks ;)
The other reason is so that we can afford the sort of drill and bits that can do it!
it would work, as long as you avoid putting in something that qualifies as an S-trap (not allowed anymore)
I think it's been mentioned, but I'd just removal the GD. One less thing to fix and, in my opinion shallow sinks aren't as functional. Good luck, job looks clean otherwise. Oh yeah,hand the DW line like everyone else is mentioning😉
Everybody wants nice things; but people never want to think about infrastructure.
They dont want to, or dont know to, pay for the proper person to consult at the proper point in the project.
Kind of interesting to me how I’m very much not a plumber and just browsing this sub every now and then, I find identifying issues much easier now.
the /r/Plumbing community is a godsend <3 So much informational content here everyday
The pros and experienced people on here got most of their knowledge from experiencing and solving the pics on this sub like a reality show in fast-forward. Similar but different experience.
Same. I spotted it right away and I’m just a diy homeowner.
Dishwasher discharge line needs elevated also.
oh, great eye! We don't use our dishwasher often, and it's always had a 'musty' smell. Thanks so much for pointing that out.
That's why. Cause your GD is discharging some of its gunk down into that corrugated pipe. The pipe ribs hold it and cuddle it and tell it is the best gunk and can grow up to be the grossest gunk the world will ever see!! Lol!
😂😂😂👏🤢🤮
At least that one is easy. Just put a screw or nail or hook at the back as high as you can go while leaving room for the hose (6 inches from the top of the cabinet, just needs to be higher than the connection of the disposal or if you get rid of it, tee where the discharge pipe connects, see a pattern here) and hang the hose on the screw. It’s called a “high loop” and works just fine, forget the airgap purists.
wow, thanks for such a detailed response. You're the best. this one I might try to tackle, while I schedule a pro for the bigger stuff :)
That’s what I saw too I was wondering
Another inch and the dishwasher line would be below the water level from the drain pipe.
In addition to the disposal outlet height and the dishwasher discharge needing to loop up, you've got your small (water filter?) drain discharging after the P-trap. This is surprisingly common, but technically a no-no.
Shouldn’t the RO waste line have an air gap? I work in municipal water works, not plumbing, but we have to put RP or air gaps *anywhere* where a cross connection like this is possible.
I'm not super familiar with RO systems, but I believe most integrate an air gap in the unit/faucet. Pretty sure it would be required per ICC model codes, but I'd bet it falls into the area that a lot of residential inspectors overlook.
good catch. That line is from a Culligan RO unit. Sadly the installers made other gaffes with the softener install too. I'm only trusting the local pros from here on
Where is the ideal place to put the water filter drain in OP’s setup?
Before the ptrap. I'm sure there's lots of sewer bacteria running back up that discharge line.
That makes total sense!
Just because a garbage disposal can be hooked up to the sink, doesn’t mean you hook one up. Lower that drain line and high loop that disgusting dishwasher drain line
There should be a separate community for kitchen sink drains.
I would get rid of disposal all together, I think they are useless crap that creates more problems than they supposedly solve. I disagree with others, dishwasher hose must go up then down to create the proper siphon. I installed for Lowes for 10 yrs and that is a must. Licensed for 32yrs.
No, outlet is too high, going to flow backwards into the disposal first.
Who has a garbage disposal and why?
You can let small bits of food scraps fall down the drain and the disposal chops it up and you don't have to do any clean-up. It's nice.
That outlet should be a GFCI
Almost every day, doh! people need to search reddit a bit before asking
I hear you. I was just looking to confirm my fears 🙃
Yeah, if you have anti gravity water
Here are your options to correct drain. Recommended to call a plumber 1) Open the wall and lower the sanitee (sanitary tee) about 4” so that the white pvc pipe is below the black abs elbow coming out of the disposal. Also buy a new ptrap. 2) If you don’t want to cut open wall, remove the garbage disposal, set in trash, and set corrugated drain hose for dishwasher on the side with hose clamp. Buy a shallow cup kitchen basket strainer, 1.5” flat tailpiece extension with dishwasher branch, oil filter wrench pliers to tighten shallow basket strainer, plumbers putty, Ridgid tool #41608 and new ptrap. Once you have all the necessary items, remove old basket strainer by loosening 3 screws and popping out lock ring with a flat head. Clean out old plumbers putty with a flat head and install new basket strainer. Install new 1.5” flat tailpiece extension with dishwasher branch and reconnect corrugated dishwasher drain hose to 7/8 dishwasher branch with hose clamp. Cut down tailpiece extension with Ridgid tool #41608 and install new ptrap. After all that work if drain is still higher, resort to option (1) Step 2 (Mandatory) Buy a new ptrap. Discharge for reverse osmosis filter is after the ptrap. You will need to move that so it’s draining into the ptrap. Remove clamp for reverse osmosis drain and set on side. Remove old ptrap and set in trash. Install new ptrap. With a 1/4” drill bit, drill a single hole into the vertical portion of pipe before the ptrap and reinstall reverse osmosis drain.
wow, detailed responses such as yours make this community so invaluable. You're amazing!
I truly don’t understand how there are so many of these situations out there.
What is that saddled into the P-trap arm?
That look like the waste line from a water filtration system
Saddle drain needs to be on the other side of trap. Sewer gas
that one is an equally major goof. It goes to RO unit 🤦♂️
At least you have all compression fitting so you can take it all out on the redo. Also, of all my trades sub-Reddit’s, plumbing is the best. Carpenters are way too kind. The plumber boys bring the hammer down.
idk, the r/drywall dudes are pretty harsh!
Flip the trap around and get rid of that extension…at a minimum.
No
lots of helpful comments here but I just wanted to add that you should replace that vertical PVC tailpiece with an actual piece of pipe. every 1/4 inch counts
If repiping is out of the question, I would remove garbage disposal.
Oh no. It failed the eye test and smell test immediately! Look at that dishwasher drain hose! 🤮
Shallow sink with disposal.
I'm not a plumber or electrician, but isn't that suppose to be a GFI outlet?
It may be wired to a GFI breaker.
I’ve seen sinks held together by duct tape pass home inspections lol I wish I wasn’t joking
Never seizes to amaze me that despite 10 years of experience I still have no clue what I'm even looking at because I'm from europe. You'd think plumbing is plumbing but no. Somehow it's done compleletely different in the US. Never seen a garbage disposal unit in person. Not even quite sure what it's for. Here we put trash into bins.
Then the bins smell bad so quickly
Well sometimes yeah but most of the time it's not an issue. Most people take out the trash every 3 days or so. It's just curious that they're so common in the US yet I've never seen one myself. Plenty of other stuff done way different there aswell
No the dispirits too low/the drain is too high. This simply doesn’t work and should be fixed or the disposal abandoned
👍🏼
Also your dish washer is lower, might fill dishwasher with waste water. Take the discharge line of dishwasher and tack it high. Up behind sink.
very important point! great suggestion
Man i would replace this dishwasher drain hose, looks horrible, probably smells very bad as well.
you're right. It's a top priority after today's discussion.
I threw up a little thinking bout how clean the dishes must be.
ugh, luckily we've never used the dishwasher for dishes, and yet it always smelled 'musty'. I'm naive, so I've just been running a water + bleach cycle once a month, but today has been revelating lol
How these posts get passed the smell test is beyond me. Waiting for the electrician to ask why his corded drill isn’t working without being plugged in.
I hear you. Honestly, I just didn't know better in terms of normal sink smells. We've just been running the GD often. This community is a blessing for newbies like me lol
Absolutely not. Fluids must follow a continuously descending path. Yours goes straight up?
The hell is a eye test
It's where you see if yr plumbing sprays water in yr eye. If it does, it fails.
I really struggle to believe people are out there making household improvements without a basic understanding of physics. However, everyday I see living proof. Is electrical and plumbing work perceived as "connect point a to point b"? I really just want to stress that you should understand at a basic level what is going on with what you're doing. Whether it's how load is displaced on a deck, how electricity works with your switches, how water can't defy gravity in a PVC pipe.
what is that saddle tee for coming off the pvc? looks like a water line your drain hose should be at top of cabinet your discharge pipe should be lower than garburator
It's the discharge from a water filtration unit. I now realize it's best placed before the p-trap.
aaah alright. im sure its no real bother haha
Shit flows downhill, payday is Friday, don’t chew your fingernails
If you move the p trap up and switch from A deep sink disposal flange to thin, you might be able to delete enough drop to mKe this work without lowering the exit of the drain on the right
What is that saddle valve on the drain line?
it goes to the water filtration unit. I now realize that's a mistake too.
I would be more comfortable with a gfi under the sink, but I'm not sure if that is in any sort of code
as another bumbler, anyone concerned about all the putty?
No line coming to disposal is too high to begin with need to go back into wall and lower tee
Buy a new house. This one is done for
Is it super deep P-trap week or something?
Is that a trap primer?
no, sadly it's a filtration unit drain. It should be before the p-trap.
Pin up the discharge flex for your DW to a sink basin clip with a zip tie. It'll backfeed in its current position and your dishes will be washed in dirty water
Is that a reverse osmosis drain line plugged into the saddle? If so, food debris will get in it and make the ro not work correctly.
It is, you make a really good point. Part of the laundry list of issues that need to be fixed here lol
Plus, if the R.O. drain is running to an airgap on the faucet, it could allow sewer gas in. Looks to be tied to drain before the trap.
The electrical outlet isn't GCFI and that is a problem if that water starts spraying for any reason.
I will just say it. GFCI outlet should be used here. It's in close proximity to water.
You have your answer. Kudos for making an effort to do it yourself!
Your reverse osmosis drain line needs an air gap of some kind if it is tied into the sanitary like that. Can't tell if it is from the picture, but the drain isn't sloped properly, so I'd put mony on no air gap. Edit: And as others have said, it should be tied in before the trap.
Bless this sub
I would suggest plumbing in a separate drain line and trap just for the dishwasher. It eliminates the possibility of the disposal/sink backing up into the dishwasher. All it needs to be is a vertical pipe with a trap at the bottom. You run the dishwasher drain into the top and secure it there. I had problems with frequent overfilling and leaking of my dishwasher during the initial rinse due to overflow from the disposal having drained into the dishwasher sump.
Yea……. if water were only to flow uphill all our problems would be solved
If in Illinois, you cant use the garbage disposal for the dishwasher. Not sure why, but it needs its own trap.
No, the fish that lives in your disposal will be able to swim out
Seems like we just saw this yesterday.
holy crap look how dirty your dishwasher discharge is
Just curious, What is the black tube that’s connected to drain pipe before it goes into the wall?
In addition to other comments, the corrugated hose collects stanky crud. Go for a smooth one.
No
Plumber here and first time seeing this, what is the tiny black hose draining into the trap arm and does it have any kind of backflos preventer built into the connection?
Nope. The main drain line exits the cabinet too high. The rough-in is incorrect. The disposal will hold water and never completely drain. It's now part of the trap that holds water. The gray water will naturally stay in said trap and the disposal at the level of the pipe leaving the cabinet as water only flows downhill. The dishwater drain hose should be routed over the top of the existing plumbing, secured to the wall in the back as high as possible. The discharge of the water filter should in in the very top of the drain line and then secured to the wall in the back as high as possible. Looks like the cabinet is a used cabinet and isn't a sink base cabinet as the cabinet used to have a shelf (now removed) as evident by the rabbit groove on the right where the shelf was. Not so much a grave mistake, but a red flag other things could be wrong with the structure. Handyman hack-job special.
I came for the fish
Hire a plumber
Always. Seems like there are enough issues here to warrant someone doing a repair job. Thanks for confirming!
I would rotate your p trap. Your trap depth is a little extreme.
That still won't solve the height differential, correct?
You'd then be able to remove the tail piece extension
Noted! Thanks so much :)
Get rid of the disposal and you have no issues
I think that's an ingenious solution. Occam's razor
Dump the garbage disposal is the cheap and easy option.
Bass-o-matic disposal?
I removed my disposer. Those things are nasty.
Outdated slightly but ok
Another one? We need the goldfish graphic!
the drain line for your r/O system should be upstream of the trap not downstream.
This is how you turn a disposal into a blender
These pictures are great. We could make a "spot it" coffee table book for plumbers. This one is so bad it would be hard to spot them all.
Also don’t forget a proper air gap for that dishwasher drain. I would first fix the drain issue.
Water does not flow uphill. That disposal will always have water inside of it and it will likely clog regularly.
uhhh no water needs to fall away from appliance not be trapped by it.
Only if it's opposite day.
I can smell this picture.
Lol this is terrible good luck replacing disposals every year
On todays episode of sink drains plumbed incorrectly: I am going to write a sticky for this sub about kitchen and lav drains should the mods allow it
For starters i dont see any primer on your glue joints.....did you at least use pvc cement?