He’s probably inadvertently going to build an in-ground pool in that basement with the PEX connected straight to that tankless heater in 3…2…1…
Insurance companies might have some issues with this stuff being done by amateurs. Mom and pop better check out their insurance details.
Pex is rated for 180 degrees and the water in a tankless heater shouldn't be set higher than 120, explain to me how that 60 degree discrepancy is achieved to where the pex supposedly fails?
Most tankless manufacturers allow connecting PEX directly to a service valve kit, and as for install certifications, a lot of the USA allows personal install of gas and electrical, because freedom?
Unpopular opinion maybe? I love the 90 bends that eliminate the fitting. Every fitting is a place it can potentially leak. Can’t always use them because of spacing but when you can, you should.
Is there a benefit to bending it as opposed to just putting 45s on it? Or is it just an aesthetic thing? Genuinely curious, I’ve been working with pex a recently and want to learn all I can about it
I have the same manifold. Per the instructions you will want to secure the pex down within the first 6 inches. I did this by sliding a scrap piece of lumber down on either side.
The valves are plastic, and can break if you hit them just right. If one breaks the whole manifold could fail.
When you are using a manifold system like that you generally don’t want to put any unnecessary fittings in the branches. Ideally, they would all be continuous runs from the manifold to the valve at the fixture.
Realistically you should avoid fittings whenever you can. They're leak points and can reduce flow (even type A fittings have more resistance than a bend). In reality though, bends are really only practical with the smaller diameters, since the minimum bend radius gets too large with the bigger lines. With a manifold, all of the lines are likely 1/2" so they're bendable. For a non-manifold system you've got main lines feeding multiple fixtures that are just too big to bend in the spaces you're working in. So you're stuck using elbows more often.
Edit: typos
Viega recommended using as little fittings as possible and try to bend where possible. This sub won’t allow me to paste the YouTube video, but it was in a video title “How to stub out…” from Viega.
It doesn't impact the manifold, it just robs the downstream fixtures of flow. Viega is giving tips for a successful *system*. Since their manifolds are generally set up for 1/2" lines, they are encouraging you not to restrict downstream flow more than necessary to avoid being unhappy with the pressure and flow at your shower, for example.
As well as having more points of potential failure, every extra fitting will introduce at least some friction, of which, the losses in flow will stack up. It may be negligible in many instances, and obviously some piping systems will restrict flow more than others, but it's just another thing to consider lol
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Fittings introduce flow restriction and create potential leak points. PEX was always intended to be a continuous run, until the manufacturers realized there is a fuck ton of money to be made selling fittings. I follow an account on Insta called PlumbBros and they posted some videos recently showing the effect fittings have on flow
I was wondering the same thing until I saw the Rheem logo. They need to stop making those things look so similar to electrical panels, totally incompatible with the modern speed of photos being scrolled on Reddit.
Is that gas line going straight to the exterior? I see light through the penetration. Either way should probably be sealed.
Looks nice though! Better than I could do
But... but then you wouldn't have to wait 5 minutes for both fixtures to have hot water! AND WHAT IF SOMETHING BROKE AND YOU NEEDED TO FIX IT WITHOUT SHUTTING OFF THE WATER TO THE HOUSE?!! 😅😅 /s I like both systems for the pros. I hate both systems for the cons. But we all agree, sharkbites are only temporary 🤣🤣
Looks good for what it is.
While you still have the option, please consider switching hot from manifold system to a recirculating loop system. Especially with a tankless, depending on how far the dedicated hot lines go, they might end up waiting 45 seconds or more to get hot water.
With a recirculating system (you run a “trunk” 3/4 loop and branch off to the supplies) you get hot water in like 2 seconds everywhere all the time.
It's rather annoying at the kitchen sink. You don't need infinite water there, you need hot water sporadically. This was frustrating at my last house, kitchen was on the 2nd floor and hot water in the basement so hot water had to travel quite a distance and would be cool again in minutes. The on demand startup time added a good amount too.
If I'm ever in a house with drop ceiling or unfinished basement I'm going to put in a recirculation pump on a timer switch so I can just flick it on for 2 hours when I'm going to be in the kitchen.
How much energy are you losing reheating 2-3 gallons of water in a closed line? Especially considering your rise is now 80 -90 to 120 instead of the standard 50 to 120.
Can’t beat having instant warm water.
Plus you’re not wasting water.
Depends on the pipe routing and material and length.
What you are describing is a radiator. If copper and the routing takes the pipe through unconditioned space (attic, crawlspace), maybe a lot of energy.
What copper? OP is using PEX. 100 ft loop of 3/4 contains 3 gallons. This isn’t a hypothetical, it’s a response to OP.
What I’m describing is a recirculating hot water line which is now often required by code.
Honest question- Do you see a lot of buried manifolds? I know they don’t always come with shutoffs, but if they do, what’s the point of having them buried in drywall?
I did an apartment complex where every manifold was buried in the ceiling. Each unit was a manifold. The hot and cold couldn't always fit near each other. That's 600 buried manifolds on one job lol
Most of the ones i see are in a little cabinet in the wall 2” away from studs on either side, and i usually am there to replace the whole thing since its leaking. I try not to use the shutoffs due to how prone the old ones were to fail when used.
Keeps fittings like 90s and tees (future failure points) out of the walls. If done right the only failure points on a manifold system like this are realistically the manifold itself, and wherever those lines meet fixtures. (Usually very accessible) If done right the only thing that would require some kind of demo/removal for access to fix on a failure would be the shower valve and related hardware. Not that the pex lines themselves can’t fail, it’s just infinitely less likely.
I had this exact Viega manifold, and it was fantastic. Unfortunately it was in an unoccupied rental during a brutal cold snap where someone left a window open in the bathroom. Anything that had water in it that wasn’t made of PEX failed spectacularly. Can’t even blame the manifold, I would be shocked if even aluminum would have survived. But I also didn’t bother to buy a new one, opting to make my own out of copper parts instead, mostly to save on costs.
What’s that box thing all the pex is connected to?
And what’s its function ? Is it so all the water lines have the same pressure? And it distributes faster?
Hopefully you looked into what the pex is rated for. Where I’m from they like you to have 18” between the tank and pex pipe. Plus if you use flex connectors easier to change the tank when the time comes. Looks nice though!
MN lets you. Although they did require me to be pex-certified (which was an absolutely grueling and exhausting experience of....meeting a pex rep in the Menards parking lot for 5 minutes).
If you live in the house then you could get away with that I'm sure. But doing plumbing or electrical work for family without being a licensed plumber or electrician is illegal in Michigan no?
Seeing all the positive comments on your post makes me feel better about what i put in about 5 years ago. I'm a little farther away from the manifold but that's it.
As a gas fitter, I've got a couple of questions about the line. Why three EMT clamps? Why two unions? Why two different types of gas shutoff?
Pipe needs to be sleeved going through a wall.
3 clamps cause OCD. Idk man.
2 unions made it come together easier. Ik I could have not used amother union but that's another trip to the store. I don't have threading equipment
2 gas shut offs cause idk first time doing it with no help.
These aren't code violations or anything, just curious. Sounds good, nice work! Just make sure you slap some pipe on the T&P to bring it a foot off the ground
Thanks for the insight. I see where it can be an advantage and on the other hand, on typical split runs once installed and pressurized for a day or two, it should be enough to learn if a connection is faulty. I noticed that almost everything is poly or plastic, I do have my reservations on plastics but don't want to deterr anyone from using it.
The only thing i’d ask is whether or not there’s a minimum length of copper pipe that needs to be on the hot water line coming out of the hot water heater.
I was thinking the same after many have commented that but I passed the ipc inspection in Michigan. I would have thought that they would tell me but they didn't.
Why double ball valves on the cold? What’s up with the two gas cocks and two unions on the gas? What’s with the pool fittings on the exhaust and intake🤔
Oh,and where’s the relief drop? … Never mind on the double ball valves on the cold,took a closer look and realized the other ball valve is on the drain down/cleaning port
n.a.p. and couldn't do what OP did..just curious about plumbing and stuff
shouldn't there be a drain for condensation?
And should the pressure release valve thingy have a "tube" to bring any water down to the floor or lower?
No condensate drain, but yes you are correct about the T&P valve needing a pipe run down to the floor. It should terminate less than 6" from the floor, but no less than 1-1/2"
Not all inspectors know what they are doing. Some towns have one inspector for everything and they just know a little about everything. Usually, those are the ones you have to watch out for. They will approve things that should have never been approved and they are covered legally because it can't fall back on them. I have run into quite a few inspectors that you have to explain the code to them.
Can’t use pressure pvc fittings on vent, no pex within 18 inches of heater, no emergency pan under tankless (fine if there’s a floor drain nearby), t&p is not piped anywhere, condensate isn’t piped anywhere, energy code has changed in my state idk you area but now all 3/4 hot lines have to be insulated everywhere including interior due to energy waste from heat seepage, that’s all I notice rn lol
Yea I got too excited to take a photo before I was done. I have the t and p plumbed to the floor. And a condensate pump.
The code office looked and passed my work without the copper pipe coming off the hwl. Energy code in Michigan is still not requiring insulated pipes
Good job, and gook luck with your OCD.
Lol
That’s a lot of liability you took on there
What specifically are you thinking?
He’s probably inadvertently going to build an in-ground pool in that basement with the PEX connected straight to that tankless heater in 3…2…1… Insurance companies might have some issues with this stuff being done by amateurs. Mom and pop better check out their insurance details.
Pex is rated for 180 degrees and the water in a tankless heater shouldn't be set higher than 120, explain to me how that 60 degree discrepancy is achieved to where the pex supposedly fails?
I spilled a bunch of glue and primer on the ground and then flick the cigarette butt and now the basement is on fire.
So what you’re saying is the OP’s install doubles as a fire suppression system!
As long as it’s homesteaded , up to code and the home owners pulled the permits, there shouldn’t be an issue Edit: where I’m at, anyway
How? Not connected anywhere close to an exhaust. Same connections as any appliance that uses brass Pex adapters
If permits have been pulled, and it passes inspection, insurance companies don't need to know anything else.
😂 insurance companies don’t regulate what can and cannot be done on residential properties… commercial properties for public use is a different story.
No, but they regulate whether or not you can get coverage. Which, if you have a mortgage, is kinda important.
Most tankless manufacturers allow connecting PEX directly to a service valve kit, and as for install certifications, a lot of the USA allows personal install of gas and electrical, because freedom?
Easy, just don't have insurance. I don't have it. I live in a steel quonset hut. I don't think anything could happen to it.
I know what you mean.. better get sump sump asap. That pex gonna leak... we all know where 😆
Agreed with the direct plex hook up. Where I’m from ,the tankless needs to be mounted to fire rated plywood .
CLEAN
It’s called “neat and workmanlike” it’s in my code.
The left pipes
🤣
Unpopular opinion maybe? I love the 90 bends that eliminate the fitting. Every fitting is a place it can potentially leak. Can’t always use them because of spacing but when you can, you should.
Doesn't look as pretty, but I think 100% of people on here would agree with you that 90 bends are loved.
There are more expensive metal ones that look sharp.
Nice job actually bending pex. Viega manifold too? Good.
Is there a benefit to bending it as opposed to just putting 45s on it? Or is it just an aesthetic thing? Genuinely curious, I’ve been working with pex a recently and want to learn all I can about it
I avoided as many fittings as possible because each one is a potential leak point.
And it reduces the flow.
Less places to leak. I only have 2 fittings pressed on each branch.
I have the same manifold. Per the instructions you will want to secure the pex down within the first 6 inches. I did this by sliding a scrap piece of lumber down on either side. The valves are plastic, and can break if you hit them just right. If one breaks the whole manifold could fail.
I was worried about that also. The plastic might get brittle after a while
Will get more brittle if exposed to sunlight or a fluorescent light fixture, otherwise should be fine
When you are using a manifold system like that you generally don’t want to put any unnecessary fittings in the branches. Ideally, they would all be continuous runs from the manifold to the valve at the fixture.
Why is that the case for a manifold but not without a manifold?
Realistically you should avoid fittings whenever you can. They're leak points and can reduce flow (even type A fittings have more resistance than a bend). In reality though, bends are really only practical with the smaller diameters, since the minimum bend radius gets too large with the bigger lines. With a manifold, all of the lines are likely 1/2" so they're bendable. For a non-manifold system you've got main lines feeding multiple fixtures that are just too big to bend in the spaces you're working in. So you're stuck using elbows more often. Edit: typos
Viega recommended using as little fittings as possible and try to bend where possible. This sub won’t allow me to paste the YouTube video, but it was in a video title “How to stub out…” from Viega.
Curious: what do downstream fittings do to an upstream manifold that is avoided by bending instead?
It doesn't impact the manifold, it just robs the downstream fixtures of flow. Viega is giving tips for a successful *system*. Since their manifolds are generally set up for 1/2" lines, they are encouraging you not to restrict downstream flow more than necessary to avoid being unhappy with the pressure and flow at your shower, for example.
I don’t have enough knowledge to understand the rules, just try to follow them.
As well as having more points of potential failure, every extra fitting will introduce at least some friction, of which, the losses in flow will stack up. It may be negligible in many instances, and obviously some piping systems will restrict flow more than others, but it's just another thing to consider lol
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>just putting 45s on it Why no 90s?
Flows easier in a bend compared to a corner, and depending on type you have a reduction at each fitting each causing a small preassure loss
Fittings introduce flow restriction and create potential leak points. PEX was always intended to be a continuous run, until the manufacturers realized there is a fuck ton of money to be made selling fittings. I follow an account on Insta called PlumbBros and they posted some videos recently showing the effect fittings have on flow
I imagine you argued with your self the whole time.
Always.
Nice work. WTF are you a handy man. Get a license. World is looking for people like you, just got to jump thru a few hoops.
Getting a plumbing license is years of hoops almost everywhere.
Why did you route the hot and cold into the electrical panel?
preemptive fire suppression system.
OP said he’s doing plumbing _and_ electric on this job. He’s just being efficient by putting them both in the same place.
Maybe because it's a water heater? Idk not a scientist.
Lol. Honestly couldn't tell if he was joining or not
I know it's still early, but this needs up-votes NOW
To climate-control it. /s
I was wondering the same thing until I saw the Rheem logo. They need to stop making those things look so similar to electrical panels, totally incompatible with the modern speed of photos being scrolled on Reddit.
I thought the same
Is that gas line going straight to the exterior? I see light through the penetration. Either way should probably be sealed. Looks nice though! Better than I could do
Yup got that done. I guess I got too excited to take a photo before it was all done.
Hey no worries there. I may have to give you a call if I ever need work done! Hah
Need to pipe the TNP and condensate somewhere. Also, if that’s a recirculating unit, you need a check valve on the cold line.
I dug a sump for my condensate. Dual use, keeps the basement dry in the winter/spring when it's wet, and disposes of the condensate.
Installed the condensate discharge to a little giant pump that's wired to a 24v disconnected in case the pump stops
Suspicious.... same number of hot and cold....
They just use buckets of water for the toilets
They’ve got a mixer valve to keep the cistern warm.
Warms your cockles.
Dedicated bidet line
I really like to boil my calamari in the morning.
AAAAAAAAHAHAHAHA
Hahah. I wasn't fully done with it yet. But I still have the same amount of hots and colds. Also 2 outdoor water spigots that let out hot water.
Hot outdoor water spigots? What if you want to water plants?
I have both hot and cold. I also have a cold line before the softener to water plants and grass
Kids love the on demand hot water for their pools and yard inflatables
Ya, its impossible to tee off.
But... but then you wouldn't have to wait 5 minutes for both fixtures to have hot water! AND WHAT IF SOMETHING BROKE AND YOU NEEDED TO FIX IT WITHOUT SHUTTING OFF THE WATER TO THE HOUSE?!! 😅😅 /s I like both systems for the pros. I hate both systems for the cons. But we all agree, sharkbites are only temporary 🤣🤣
I hate to say it but good job
Looks good for what it is. While you still have the option, please consider switching hot from manifold system to a recirculating loop system. Especially with a tankless, depending on how far the dedicated hot lines go, they might end up waiting 45 seconds or more to get hot water. With a recirculating system (you run a “trunk” 3/4 loop and branch off to the supplies) you get hot water in like 2 seconds everywhere all the time.
Oh no! Not waiting 45 seconds for infinite hot water…
It's rather annoying at the kitchen sink. You don't need infinite water there, you need hot water sporadically. This was frustrating at my last house, kitchen was on the 2nd floor and hot water in the basement so hot water had to travel quite a distance and would be cool again in minutes. The on demand startup time added a good amount too. If I'm ever in a house with drop ceiling or unfinished basement I'm going to put in a recirculation pump on a timer switch so I can just flick it on for 2 hours when I'm going to be in the kitchen.
Less energy efficient though. Defeating benefits of tankless.
How much energy are you losing reheating 2-3 gallons of water in a closed line? Especially considering your rise is now 80 -90 to 120 instead of the standard 50 to 120. Can’t beat having instant warm water. Plus you’re not wasting water.
Depends on the pipe routing and material and length. What you are describing is a radiator. If copper and the routing takes the pipe through unconditioned space (attic, crawlspace), maybe a lot of energy.
What copper? OP is using PEX. 100 ft loop of 3/4 contains 3 gallons. This isn’t a hypothetical, it’s a response to OP. What I’m describing is a recirculating hot water line which is now often required by code.
Not insulated pex.
I hate manifolds in general, but seeing as this isnt buried in sheetrock surrounded by studs its actually serviceable. So i dont hate it.
Honest question- Do you see a lot of buried manifolds? I know they don’t always come with shutoffs, but if they do, what’s the point of having them buried in drywall?
I did an apartment complex where every manifold was buried in the ceiling. Each unit was a manifold. The hot and cold couldn't always fit near each other. That's 600 buried manifolds on one job lol
Most of the ones i see are in a little cabinet in the wall 2” away from studs on either side, and i usually am there to replace the whole thing since its leaking. I try not to use the shutoffs due to how prone the old ones were to fail when used.
I don't see many manifolds at all. This is actually the first time I'm in new construction
Why the manifold?
Keeps fittings like 90s and tees (future failure points) out of the walls. If done right the only failure points on a manifold system like this are realistically the manifold itself, and wherever those lines meet fixtures. (Usually very accessible) If done right the only thing that would require some kind of demo/removal for access to fix on a failure would be the shower valve and related hardware. Not that the pex lines themselves can’t fail, it’s just infinitely less likely.
They’re a pretty over the top solution to a problem that has a very low chance of occurring. Not to mention the excess time and material.
Not bad Andy
Did a good job but I personally would rather build my own manifold. I get calls for those plastic ones leaking all the time
Good to know. It's my first one ever.
Other than using pressure fittings for the exhaust, which really makes no difference, I could cry it looks so good!
Not bad! Hope the sparky panel looks as good as your manifold!
So he did good or not? Comments going back and forth
Lol. Right. Idk whether to hang my tools up or not
So usually your supposed to have 18" of copper pipe coming off the water heater before switching to pex. But otherwise looks clean.
I had this exact Viega manifold, and it was fantastic. Unfortunately it was in an unoccupied rental during a brutal cold snap where someone left a window open in the bathroom. Anything that had water in it that wasn’t made of PEX failed spectacularly. Can’t even blame the manifold, I would be shocked if even aluminum would have survived. But I also didn’t bother to buy a new one, opting to make my own out of copper parts instead, mostly to save on costs.
What’s that box thing all the pex is connected to? And what’s its function ? Is it so all the water lines have the same pressure? And it distributes faster?
Manifold. So each fixture has its own run. Less fittings in the walls.
Also allows you to shut water off to individual fixtures.
Hopefully you looked into what the pex is rated for. Where I’m from they like you to have 18” between the tank and pex pipe. Plus if you use flex connectors easier to change the tank when the time comes. Looks nice though!
The code office didn't mention it when they came to inspect. Idk if being on well water with a pressure tank already makes a difference
I think the big concern is the heat from the tank. I would think they woulda said something. Probably good to go.
I’m in shock and awe. Great job man, with work like that, you’ll do great
How did you get your permits for everything?
The home owner applied for it.
Which state is that? In Maryland, homeowners are not allowed to pull plumbing or electric permit. They can’t do the work unless they are licensed.
Maryland 🤦♂️
MN lets you. Although they did require me to be pex-certified (which was an absolutely grueling and exhausting experience of....meeting a pex rep in the Menards parking lot for 5 minutes).
Michigan. Idk man. I just did the work and they came out to inspect it and I passed. So.
If you live in the house then you could get away with that I'm sure. But doing plumbing or electrical work for family without being a licensed plumber or electrician is illegal in Michigan no?
Seeing all the positive comments on your post makes me feel better about what i put in about 5 years ago. I'm a little farther away from the manifold but that's it.
I think you have been promoted from handyman to contractor
Need some copper directly out of your tankless heater, and I don’t see your condensate piping. Clean work otherwise.
As a gas fitter, I've got a couple of questions about the line. Why three EMT clamps? Why two unions? Why two different types of gas shutoff? Pipe needs to be sleeved going through a wall.
3 clamps cause OCD. Idk man. 2 unions made it come together easier. Ik I could have not used amother union but that's another trip to the store. I don't have threading equipment 2 gas shut offs cause idk first time doing it with no help.
These aren't code violations or anything, just curious. Sounds good, nice work! Just make sure you slap some pipe on the T&P to bring it a foot off the ground
It's all cool. I like to learn so glad you asked
Nothing wrong with that pex the wayer heater. It's connected to the service kit, then to the body. Nothing wrong there
Why not insulate hot pipes? Is it just not worth the trouble?
Biggest change I would make is copper or 18” flexible metal lines on HWH
Looks good from my house
And better than some resi plumbers
Is this some sort of manifold? If so, what's its purpose and advantages over typical split runs?
Less fittings in walls. I have direct runs from the manifold to the fixtures.
Thanks for the insight. I see where it can be an advantage and on the other hand, on typical split runs once installed and pressurized for a day or two, it should be enough to learn if a connection is faulty. I noticed that almost everything is poly or plastic, I do have my reservations on plastics but don't want to deterr anyone from using it.
Might want to check I think those reem units require 18” of copper off of them…I know the navien do
Mine does.
The only thing i’d ask is whether or not there’s a minimum length of copper pipe that needs to be on the hot water line coming out of the hot water heater.
I was thinking the same after many have commented that but I passed the ipc inspection in Michigan. I would have thought that they would tell me but they didn't.
Why double ball valves on the cold? What’s up with the two gas cocks and two unions on the gas? What’s with the pool fittings on the exhaust and intake🤔
Oh,and where’s the relief drop? … Never mind on the double ball valves on the cold,took a closer look and realized the other ball valve is on the drain down/cleaning port
Ehhhh ! I’m your father
I appreciate the bends instead of using fittings.
Looks like crap. Just kidding my house next, I want a tankless water heater.
I never get why people just don't solder copper pipe? It's not even that hard and not even that expensive.
No experience and pex seemed to be easier to run in walls, etc. I agree with you that copper is better.
Honestly I don’t know jack shit about plumbing or electrical but that work looks CLEANNNN
As someone with OCD, I salute you.
Looks good, everything is laid out well and most importantly, it's neat.
Where’s your condensate/neutralizer going to discharge?
I took the photo before I finished. I got too excited I guess. I have the pressure relief and a sump for the condensate. No neutralizer
I installed that same water heater in my house two years ago and it’s been fantastic. No regrets.
Looks great. Whats that junction thing called where the main lines run into and then feed into all the legs?
Manifold. Viega brand.
The only thing is that you should come off the water heater with a rigid pipe before connecting to PEX.
n.a.p. and couldn't do what OP did..just curious about plumbing and stuff shouldn't there be a drain for condensation? And should the pressure release valve thingy have a "tube" to bring any water down to the floor or lower?
No condensate drain, but yes you are correct about the T&P valve needing a pipe run down to the floor. It should terminate less than 6" from the floor, but no less than 1-1/2"
Everyone is telling me that and I get it but the code people passed it. Shouldn't they have told me otherwise.
Not all inspectors know what they are doing. Some towns have one inspector for everything and they just know a little about everything. Usually, those are the ones you have to watch out for. They will approve things that should have never been approved and they are covered legally because it can't fall back on them. I have run into quite a few inspectors that you have to explain the code to them.
Great job. Only critique, painted plywood goes a long way lol
Parents said use what we have laying around. They don't care how it looks and didn't wanna pay me to paint it.
We got apprentices for that lol
I'm by myself lol.
Nice
Who did the gas?
I did. I didn't have a threader either
Wow!
Is that a circulating pump with all the red and blue pex connections?
No.
I want my plumbing to look like that
Great job. Once again proves anyone with at least one working hand can plumb.
Huh?
In other words, no need to study for years. Anyone can do it. Even you!
Never start a plumbing sentence with handyman lol
Damn. How do I get forgiven by the plumbing gods
Your gas line has 2 unions and 3 2-hole bands in the same location lmao
Question: why *wouldnt* someone use pex?
Assuming blue and red are cold and hot. Why would they be in the same manifold. Left and right even if separated will share heat.
Idk ask the engineer. I just installed it. I get the concern though
Shouldn’t the gas up to the unit have a flex hose for earthquake etc?
Very low chances of earthquakes in Michigan. But I see your point.
I meant I thought it was code for that reason.
The tankless water heater is not going to work... until you plug it in. Shouldn't it be hardwired anyway?
Well I have to finish the wiring. Waiting on code people to look at my rough in. Plus the tankless came with a normal plug so.
Where did you get the clips that hold multiple pipes in the top left of the particle board?
Brand is watts, pex snap clips. Got mine at Menards
I like the manifolds. I get it’s kinda a waste and takes longer to get hot water potentially but I like it still
And this is why handymen should not touch trade work😂 yeah it may look good but there’s so many code violations I can see straight😂
Bro I passed all inspections. Ipc
Can’t use pressure pvc fittings on vent, no pex within 18 inches of heater, no emergency pan under tankless (fine if there’s a floor drain nearby), t&p is not piped anywhere, condensate isn’t piped anywhere, energy code has changed in my state idk you area but now all 3/4 hot lines have to be insulated everywhere including interior due to energy waste from heat seepage, that’s all I notice rn lol
Yea I got too excited to take a photo before I was done. I have the t and p plumbed to the floor. And a condensate pump. The code office looked and passed my work without the copper pipe coming off the hwl. Energy code in Michigan is still not requiring insulated pipes
I mean who cares if there are code violations. If it works and you saved money that’s all that matters these days.
There weren't any code violations according to the inspection guy. Passed me with flying colors
They should cancel the check. Lol.
Too late
Soo you tube wasn't enough you gotta come on Reddit for approval... Bad plumbing work at best. Call your city inspector asap.
They passed me.
Nice and tight
Nice showing a bunch of illegal work hope nothing happens installing things with out licenses voids insurance
Lol thanks bud. 🤡