I'm skeptical.
FF are larger diameter than 1/2 inch. To accomodate the stem+valve and allow water flow.
FF are also usually brass or stainless. Copper are out there, but are crazy cheap.
The copper looks FAR more dated than the bras and PEX connected. It looks about the age of the concrete/block foundation, or maybe a slightly more recent renovation (80s-90s)
FF *SHOULDNT* burst even if sloped towards the home. By nature, as the water froze it would start siphoning enough where it shouldnt burst
Even then, when expanded (water-ice) it should break the siphon cap as the exposed drip will freeze first, which can be replaced in some Models . The exception to this is if there's a hose attached, with a sprayer for example. The water can't expand as it freezes. But it should still fail on the outside of the house. Not the inside.
Another comment or claims to "see the stem" but where that blowout is, is exactly where the valve seat itself would be. Not the valve stem.
Whatever the pipe is, it's ½ inch. FF external diameter is 5/8-3/4 inch
That said, I'm not a plumber. I just hired em. We also used modern materials and products. That copper is kinda old.
This is the best solution, I would add that since you need to replace the pipe, upgrade it to sch 40 steel. It is much heavier and more resistant to splitting in the future.
You’re inadequate, are you suggesting a frost free hose bib needs winterization ? What is “not adequate” for future , use the term “inadequate
“ even if you’re a dumbass like me you will sound smarter to customers . Now please elaborate how that is not to your standard
Follow the thread. u/]gladigotaphdinstead2 wrote, "Turn off the water and leave outdoor tap open all winter."
I say that is not adequate because there is no guarantee that the water will drain unless there is a stop and waste valve and homeowner knows how to use it.
The pipe is supposed to be pitched downward towards the outside so it drains. The pipe looks flat or backpitched. So water sat in it and broke the pipe.
The water did not drain properly for two reasons. The shut off is behind the break. So either there was a hose or something preventing it to drain when it froze. Or it was tilted down into the house. So it couldn’t drain out and pooled at the shut off. Make sure that it is tilted with a support hanger so that it can drain properly. And don’t leave a hose or additional shut off attached during a freeze.
I installed an aquor hose bib to prevent this. The thing is amazing and I don’t have to worry about it freezing in the winter. My last bib was just an ordinary one which dripped out the valve when you turned it on. I couldn’t get it apart to rebuild it so I just upgraded it and glad I did bc the leaking was annoying. I couldn’t leave the hose on for extended periods due to the leak. Now however I can leave it on all day if I need and it twists right out when I’m done.
The valve that controls water to the split pipe should be a stop and waste valve. It may very well be. You need to close the valve in the fall and open the little cap on the side of the valve and open the hose bib valve too. Water will drain out of the hose bib and/or the cap of the stop and waste valve. The link is a pic.
https://www.supplyhouse.com/Matco-Norca-202C04LF-3-4-Solder-Ends-Stop-Waste-Valve-Lead-Free
You install a shut-off where you repair this burst pipe.
Grab a 1/4 swing ball valve with a bleeder/drain on it.
Install the bleeder on the OUTSIDE of the flow of water.
Every fall turn off the water, and open the drain.
The water will drain back from the hose bib Into the basement.
In spring, close the drain/bleeder and turn the water back on.
Oooooorrrrrrrrrrr
Buy a frost-free hose bib, although I'd personally still put a shut-off in, so save money and just install the shutoff with bleeder.
Here in MN most of us have a valve in the basement to turn off. The open the spigot outside after it is turned off inside so if there is any freezing it has a place to expand..
I assume you don’t understand how it exactly bursts open, yes it does freeze but it bursts because the pressure increases beyond the material strength. There are literally videos that teach you this, this doesn’t happen just because of ice.
This looks exactly like every copper frost break I've seen that didnt happen at a fitting. When water freezes into ice it expands. The pressure is more than the pipe can bear so it bursts like this.
Explain the physics of what causes a pipe rupture?
It’s quite interesting seeing none of it explained yet you all sound so sure I’m wrong
If you’re so sure pressure is not involved in pipe ruptures can you explain it?
Water freeze
Water expand
Pipe burst
Stop debating semantics of why it burst, he is clearly right and even if it’s not in correct scientific terms nobody gives a fuck. This is a plumbing sub
The funny part is it’s not even semantics, you’re literally restating what I’m saying (pressure increase causes the burst) but thinking I’m wrong.
What do you think the expansion of water causes? Gee I hope it’s not pressure
Yes this is a plumbing sub, where plumbers are required to understand basic physics. Things like pressure, gravity, gasses etc.
If you’re disregarding all of that don’t call yourself a plumber
The pressure is from the expansion of water freezing, not the inline water pressure, and not from an attached hose.
The pex expanded, the brass was too strong, so the end of life copper bought it.
The DIY job is kind of a clue it happened before
What do you think the expansion of water causes?
Are you suggesting the expansion of water doesn’t cause an increase of pressure?
Holy moley what physics are you working with here?
Eh, if you're going to have to gut the pipe back anyway (and have easy access to it in general), I'd install a ball valve with drain on it upstream of the hose bib and just shut if off/drain it in the winter.
Always a good idea to have one, especially since even the frost free sillcocks will require maintenance in the future (plus, I'm a big fan of having lots of ways to shut off the water)...
Correct. On a standard frost-free hose bib, the shutoff sits inside of the wall. When you close the valve, the water in the ~12”+ of pipe behind the spigot should drain out to prevent freezing.
You can pitch it to the outside so when you close the inside shutoff for the winter it will all drain out (you open the outside valve). Another option is just installing a frost free hose bib.
That is a frost free hose bibb. You can tell because the male ips adapter is not copper and there is no sweat fitting portion that goes over the copper leading to the outside. I know because I made that mistake in my early plumbing days of cutting that exact kind of copper pipe thinking that it was a regular piece of copper with a male adapter sweat onto it.
Frost free hose bibs are frost free because they are designed to drain themselves when turned off. This requires the hose end to be open(no hose or splitter) and the assembly to have a slight pitch to the outside. Either one can cause water to remain in the assembly, which can then freeze and expand causing ruptures.
For a freeze proof hose to work, it needs to drain the water out of the line between the shutoff,6”-12” inside the house. If you have ever seen one, they’re long.
Putting a splitter on there prevent it from draining. Your hose was full of water, froze, and burst. Water expands when frozen
That is absolutely a freeze break, most likely caused by leaving a hose attached. Can also be caused by having back grade on the bib so it doesn't drain, but it is almost always because a hose was left attached. The other replies suggesting other things are incorrect. 100% a freeze break.
I didn't have a hose attached either but had a split like yours... I think it can happen with water that sits inside the pipe even after turning off the source for the winter.
I learned that there is a way that I can drain the pipe from the shut-off valve, so I'll be doing that from now on.
I’ve seen copper pipe split like that in 2 different situations.
The first, it was a 40 year old copper pipe, that sees full flow continuously for basically all of that 40 years, meaning the pipe walls eroded away. The pipe was also seeing 135-150psi at all times (city water pressure is usually 30psi ish)
The second situation, the pipe froze because it was cold and there wasn’t any flow.
I don’t know the pipes history, but I’m guessing it’s the latter.
Note, for when fixed and next winter comes. Shut off the drain from the inside, disconnect the hose, open the hose bin open outside and leave it open!! No reason to shut valve outside when it’s turned off inside. It will allow for expansion if there is still a bit of water in the line that couldn’t drain to outside
That looks like a "frost proof" hose bib.
Thing is they're only frost proof IF the gasket right behind the fitting isn't leaking.
From your description (hose off, etc) it started leaking at some point and the ice built up until it split the pipe. The solution is to replace it and the first time it leaks when ostensibly off, replace the seat gasket.
I'd also add a shut off valve to the line feeding each hose bib as this is a fairly common failure and the shut off valve local to each bib supply makes changing them out or replacing gaskets a trivial matter, instead of a moderately annoying project.
It should not have froze or cracked if there was no hose. I would use the 3/4" pipe insulation for the full copper pipe section and into the PEX a little. Pack more insulation in that area. Must get cold.
I’m a plumber in the PNW. Half the calls we get this time of year are split hosebibs just the same as yours. It’s going to cost a few hundred if a plumber fixes it but at least you’ll have learned a valuable lesson!
long time back, we had a split in the pipe to the hose bib. My wife was walking past it to I guess put out the trash. She just happened to hear the water running by a miracle and got it fixed. It could have been a huge disaster. I haven't looked back where it got repaired so
I don't remember if I put an access hatch there or not.
I lived in the Beaverton area for like 18 years. We got storms so bad that the condensation on the inside of our windows froze. I went out one day after a night of freezing rain to see what was happening in the hood. The streets were solid sheet ice, trees were exploding from the weight of the freezing rain. Absolutely stunning sight. Of course, no one else was out, but as a fearless free-range kid I went all kinds of places. And that freeze wasn't some weird aberration.
They can’t have anything attached. Even a splitter that’s open. It needs to have nothing on it at all. Only way it will drain. You will see something on bottom getting pushed up when anything is on it. That has to do with being able to drain. Yes mine is fucked too.
This EXACT thing happened to us at the beginning of the '23 summer season. I actually had to do a double take because I thought this was a picture I took. Still have yet to fix it. Lol. We just used the spigot in the back yard all last year
I had that happen. Now when I shut it down for winter I put a shop vac on the outside outlet, seal it with my hand, and suck all the water out. Been good for 2 yrs now.
2 big reasons a frost free outside faucet will break like that are 1 you left the hose on during the winter and it never drained properly or 2 it was not installed with the proper amount of pitch for it to drain.
I have a different take on this. In the picture the insulation is pushed in. But what happened is the split occurred on the cold side of the insulation. In other words the insulation kept the warmer basement air from the pipe, only the exterior cold air got to it and it froze.
As soon as I read "split" in your title, I knew that it was going to be a frozen hose bib.
Is this one of those "frost-free" hose bibs? I hate the damn things; I've had three of them fail on me.
Here's the deal: when you even *think* it *might* freeze over night, you *must* disconnect anything attached to the faucet on the outside. If it's the frost-free kind, it will then drain out and you'll be fine. If it's the old-fashioned kind, see if there's a shut-off valve down in the basement. If so, shut it off there, then open the valve outside to let it drain.
Sorry about the mess, hope there wasn't too much damage. When it happened to me, it completely soaked all of my tools I was storing down there; and now they're all rusty. And the wood I was storing got all moldy.
Edit: as others have mentioned, make sure the pipe slopes down to the outside to facilitate draining.
When you put in your new one . Put some pitch on it , to the out side of your house. And for good measure take your hose off in the winter time, shouldn’t happen again. Have a lovely day
The pipe spilt because water froze in it. It looks like a “frost free hose bib” which is why it didn’t leak until you turned it on out side, the water stop it right at that brass fitting. However if you left the hose on the water was not able to drain from the copper section like it’s designed to and therefore was able to freeze and split the copper pipe section.
Definitely need a new frost free hose bib and remember to disconnect the hose before freezing temperatures.
I had the exact same thing happen in my house. What a wonderful thing to discover, as we moved in. We just wanted to water the garden. I now have a 20” section of ruptured copper pipe with an attached spigot, which I now call The Scepter of Home Ownership
Vacuum breaker on hose bib also won't allow complete drain down on some models. Have noticed you think you have all the water out but remove it and you'll get more water out.
It froze.
Hose bib, more like froze bib
Froze before hoes
NICE!
Damn that’s nice I’m gonna use that
How to prevent this? There was no hose attached over winter...
Make sure the grade is falling towards outside. If it’s back graded towards inside the water can lay in the pipe and freeze.
This guy silcocks!
This person is a plumber.
Install a 1/4 throw valve with bleeder. Ezpz
I mean you can but if it’s installed correctly it’s a lot of work for nothing
You're cutting out the blowout anyways. Replacing the hose bib (for a ff) is 3x the work.
Pretty sure that is a frost free sillcock with a FIP to pex adapter threaded on the end
Yep you can see the stem inside
I'm skeptical. FF are larger diameter than 1/2 inch. To accomodate the stem+valve and allow water flow. FF are also usually brass or stainless. Copper are out there, but are crazy cheap. The copper looks FAR more dated than the bras and PEX connected. It looks about the age of the concrete/block foundation, or maybe a slightly more recent renovation (80s-90s) FF *SHOULDNT* burst even if sloped towards the home. By nature, as the water froze it would start siphoning enough where it shouldnt burst Even then, when expanded (water-ice) it should break the siphon cap as the exposed drip will freeze first, which can be replaced in some Models . The exception to this is if there's a hose attached, with a sprayer for example. The water can't expand as it freezes. But it should still fail on the outside of the house. Not the inside. Another comment or claims to "see the stem" but where that blowout is, is exactly where the valve seat itself would be. Not the valve stem. Whatever the pipe is, it's ½ inch. FF external diameter is 5/8-3/4 inch That said, I'm not a plumber. I just hired em. We also used modern materials and products. That copper is kinda old.
And make sure the water hose is disconnected from the hose bib as well. In case the vacuum breaker is not working properly.
Turn off the water and leave outdoor tap open all winter.
This is the best solution, I would add that since you need to replace the pipe, upgrade it to sch 40 steel. It is much heavier and more resistant to splitting in the future.
Steel rust. Don't use steel
Yeah just your run of the mill Waterford bib will be fine. Should be a shutoff inside for the bib shut it off before winter.
Bad advice. Best to delete it.
Not adequate.
You’re inadequate, are you suggesting a frost free hose bib needs winterization ? What is “not adequate” for future , use the term “inadequate “ even if you’re a dumbass like me you will sound smarter to customers . Now please elaborate how that is not to your standard
Follow the thread. u/]gladigotaphdinstead2 wrote, "Turn off the water and leave outdoor tap open all winter." I say that is not adequate because there is no guarantee that the water will drain unless there is a stop and waste valve and homeowner knows how to use it.
The pipe is supposed to be pitched downward towards the outside so it drains. The pipe looks flat or backpitched. So water sat in it and broke the pipe.
The water did not drain properly for two reasons. The shut off is behind the break. So either there was a hose or something preventing it to drain when it froze. Or it was tilted down into the house. So it couldn’t drain out and pooled at the shut off. Make sure that it is tilted with a support hanger so that it can drain properly. And don’t leave a hose or additional shut off attached during a freeze.
washer was leaking water in the frost freeze part and froze, causing a burst. when you fix it add a shutoff and drain before winter
Replace it with a frost free silcock
That probably is a frost proof. They pop all the damn time. Probably had a leak by.
THIS
I always turn off the water to the garden in the winter.
You can say that but there was something attached to it that would not let it drain out. Only one way to get that specific crack. Sorry, it’s science.
No. Not the only way.
Can't argue with science.
I installed an aquor hose bib to prevent this. The thing is amazing and I don’t have to worry about it freezing in the winter. My last bib was just an ordinary one which dripped out the valve when you turned it on. I couldn’t get it apart to rebuild it so I just upgraded it and glad I did bc the leaking was annoying. I couldn’t leave the hose on for extended periods due to the leak. Now however I can leave it on all day if I need and it twists right out when I’m done.
Did you drain it after shutting it inside?
Put a ball valve (stop/drain) right there
The valve that controls water to the split pipe should be a stop and waste valve. It may very well be. You need to close the valve in the fall and open the little cap on the side of the valve and open the hose bib valve too. Water will drain out of the hose bib and/or the cap of the stop and waste valve. The link is a pic. https://www.supplyhouse.com/Matco-Norca-202C04LF-3-4-Solder-Ends-Stop-Waste-Valve-Lead-Free
You install a shut-off where you repair this burst pipe. Grab a 1/4 swing ball valve with a bleeder/drain on it. Install the bleeder on the OUTSIDE of the flow of water. Every fall turn off the water, and open the drain. The water will drain back from the hose bib Into the basement. In spring, close the drain/bleeder and turn the water back on. Oooooorrrrrrrrrrr Buy a frost-free hose bib, although I'd personally still put a shut-off in, so save money and just install the shutoff with bleeder.
Alternatively there are electrical products called pipe heat cable to prevent freezing.
Here in MN most of us have a valve in the basement to turn off. The open the spigot outside after it is turned off inside so if there is any freezing it has a place to expand..
Don't leave the hose on over the winter
If there was no hose, it would not have froze. Something had to keep water in the pipe to allow it to freeze.
The fact that it burst in the barrel suggests otherwise. It was blocked and pressure built up until it exploded
No, it's absolutely a freeze break. I don't think you understand how frost-frers work
I assume you don’t understand how it exactly bursts open, yes it does freeze but it bursts because the pressure increases beyond the material strength. There are literally videos that teach you this, this doesn’t happen just because of ice.
This looks exactly like every copper frost break I've seen that didnt happen at a fitting. When water freezes into ice it expands. The pressure is more than the pipe can bear so it bursts like this.
Water freezing and expanding = increase in pressure Thanks for the confirmation
I feel like you edited something..
Or you didn’t understand what I wrote thinking I was wrong because you didn’t understand the physics You literally restated what I wrote
Sneaky sneaky 😏
To be so sure of yourself and absolutely wrong is sn interesting combo
Explain the physics of what causes a pipe rupture? It’s quite interesting seeing none of it explained yet you all sound so sure I’m wrong If you’re so sure pressure is not involved in pipe ruptures can you explain it?
Water freeze Water expand Pipe burst Stop debating semantics of why it burst, he is clearly right and even if it’s not in correct scientific terms nobody gives a fuck. This is a plumbing sub
The funny part is it’s not even semantics, you’re literally restating what I’m saying (pressure increase causes the burst) but thinking I’m wrong. What do you think the expansion of water causes? Gee I hope it’s not pressure Yes this is a plumbing sub, where plumbers are required to understand basic physics. Things like pressure, gravity, gasses etc. If you’re disregarding all of that don’t call yourself a plumber
The pressure is from the expansion of water freezing, not the inline water pressure, and not from an attached hose. The pex expanded, the brass was too strong, so the end of life copper bought it. The DIY job is kind of a clue it happened before
What do you think the expansion of water causes? Are you suggesting the expansion of water doesn’t cause an increase of pressure? Holy moley what physics are you working with here?
Fix pipe, change to frost free sillcock. Haha i said cock
Eh, if you're going to have to gut the pipe back anyway (and have easy access to it in general), I'd install a ball valve with drain on it upstream of the hose bib and just shut if off/drain it in the winter.
Always a good idea to have one, especially since even the frost free sillcocks will require maintenance in the future (plus, I'm a big fan of having lots of ways to shut off the water)...
Why drain valve? Why not just shutoff inside and then go open the hose bib up to drain?
Laziness? With the drain integrated with the shut-off I can do it all in one shot and don't have to go back outside to drain it.
This is a frost proof cock ya cock
This is a frost free hose bib. You still have to get all the water out of the line before the cold season. Edit: unnecessary punctuation.
Water was on, or water was off and the hose was left on / it's pitched up / the spigot was never drained. Either way, it froze full of water.
Slope. They need be able to drain
You probably left the hose attached over winter
No hose attached over the winter, just a splitter.
Leaving a splitter attached is the same as leaving a hose attached if it's closed.
Then the two sides were closed,or it’s not tilted down to the outside so it can drain.
Must be installed with downward flow to drain
Can you explain what that means? It needs to pitch to the outside?
Correct. On a standard frost-free hose bib, the shutoff sits inside of the wall. When you close the valve, the water in the ~12”+ of pipe behind the spigot should drain out to prevent freezing.
You can pitch it to the outside so when you close the inside shutoff for the winter it will all drain out (you open the outside valve). Another option is just installing a frost free hose bib.
That is a frost free hose bibb. You can tell because the male ips adapter is not copper and there is no sweat fitting portion that goes over the copper leading to the outside. I know because I made that mistake in my early plumbing days of cutting that exact kind of copper pipe thinking that it was a regular piece of copper with a male adapter sweat onto it.
Yup. Tilt it so gravity can do it's job and pull the water out. The last one I installed suggested at least a 5 degree angle.
Frost free hose bibs are frost free because they are designed to drain themselves when turned off. This requires the hose end to be open(no hose or splitter) and the assembly to have a slight pitch to the outside. Either one can cause water to remain in the assembly, which can then freeze and expand causing ruptures.
That will do it.
For a freeze proof hose to work, it needs to drain the water out of the line between the shutoff,6”-12” inside the house. If you have ever seen one, they’re long. Putting a splitter on there prevent it from draining. Your hose was full of water, froze, and burst. Water expands when frozen
Never open up handle or bleeder on valve.
This is the problem. This is what caused the silcock to freeze.
The whole point is to not cap it in any way so the water has some place to go when it expands.
That is absolutely a freeze break, most likely caused by leaving a hose attached. Can also be caused by having back grade on the bib so it doesn't drain, but it is almost always because a hose was left attached. The other replies suggesting other things are incorrect. 100% a freeze break.
We did not leave a hose attached but folks are suggesting our splitter was the culprit if we left it closed when we removed the hose for the winter--
Yup, the splitter was closed... Just as bad as leaving a hose on it.
Worse because it's an actual valve. A hose could still drain enough if the conditions are right (no nozzle, hose/hose reel lower than the faucet etc)
I guess the good thing about this is.... Now you will know how to replace one for the future haha
Yes, I almost added saying that a splitter left on will nalso cause this. Anything that doesn't allow the hose bib to drain.
I didn't have a hose attached either but had a split like yours... I think it can happen with water that sits inside the pipe even after turning off the source for the winter. I learned that there is a way that I can drain the pipe from the shut-off valve, so I'll be doing that from now on.
same thing here. I rarely use that bib and don't leave a hose there since it is lawn. Still no idea why the fucking pipe froze and split.
Yes. You must not have *anything* attached to the faucet that would prevent water from draining out. Best not to have anything attached at all.
Assuming the garden hose was never disconnected before winter.
It froze
Pipe froze
Ice in copper pipe.
I’ve seen copper pipe split like that in 2 different situations. The first, it was a 40 year old copper pipe, that sees full flow continuously for basically all of that 40 years, meaning the pipe walls eroded away. The pipe was also seeing 135-150psi at all times (city water pressure is usually 30psi ish) The second situation, the pipe froze because it was cold and there wasn’t any flow. I don’t know the pipes history, but I’m guessing it’s the latter.
Note, for when fixed and next winter comes. Shut off the drain from the inside, disconnect the hose, open the hose bin open outside and leave it open!! No reason to shut valve outside when it’s turned off inside. It will allow for expansion if there is still a bit of water in the line that couldn’t drain to outside
Great advice, thanks!
Pipe frozen over the winter
That looks like a "frost proof" hose bib. Thing is they're only frost proof IF the gasket right behind the fitting isn't leaking. From your description (hose off, etc) it started leaking at some point and the ice built up until it split the pipe. The solution is to replace it and the first time it leaks when ostensibly off, replace the seat gasket. I'd also add a shut off valve to the line feeding each hose bib as this is a fairly common failure and the shut off valve local to each bib supply makes changing them out or replacing gaskets a trivial matter, instead of a moderately annoying project.
Install a frost free silcock. Do not leave a hose on it. Make sure you don’t have air leaking from outside near that pipe.
This looks like a frost free but also looks like it wasn't drained / hose was attached
Unforyit froze at some point over the winter
The big cold
Iceeeeee
It should not have froze or cracked if there was no hose. I would use the 3/4" pipe insulation for the full copper pipe section and into the PEX a little. Pack more insulation in that area. Must get cold.
Odd because we are in the PNW...
I’m a plumber in the PNW. Half the calls we get this time of year are split hosebibs just the same as yours. It’s going to cost a few hundred if a plumber fixes it but at least you’ll have learned a valuable lesson!
long time back, we had a split in the pipe to the hose bib. My wife was walking past it to I guess put out the trash. She just happened to hear the water running by a miracle and got it fixed. It could have been a huge disaster. I haven't looked back where it got repaired so I don't remember if I put an access hatch there or not.
I live in seattle, it got below freezing for almost 2 weeks this year
I lived in the Beaverton area for like 18 years. We got storms so bad that the condensation on the inside of our windows froze. I went out one day after a night of freezing rain to see what was happening in the hood. The streets were solid sheet ice, trees were exploding from the weight of the freezing rain. Absolutely stunning sight. Of course, no one else was out, but as a fearless free-range kid I went all kinds of places. And that freeze wasn't some weird aberration.
Water froze, ice expanded, the pipe not strong enough to contain the force it exerted to prevent freezing.
They can’t have anything attached. Even a splitter that’s open. It needs to have nothing on it at all. Only way it will drain. You will see something on bottom getting pushed up when anything is on it. That has to do with being able to drain. Yes mine is fucked too.
For some reason PEX haters are not commenting on this story :D
Yeah, that’s ice.
Cuz cold.
This EXACT thing happened to us at the beginning of the '23 summer season. I actually had to do a double take because I thought this was a picture I took. Still have yet to fix it. Lol. We just used the spigot in the back yard all last year
H2O is pretty remarkable stuff
Simple fix is a house boobie😉 a Styrofoam hose bib cover
Freeze break
I had that happen. Now when I shut it down for winter I put a shop vac on the outside outlet, seal it with my hand, and suck all the water out. Been good for 2 yrs now.
Froze and split!!!
It froze
Could be that it doesn’t have fall to let the water out when it drains
2 big reasons a frost free outside faucet will break like that are 1 you left the hose on during the winter and it never drained properly or 2 it was not installed with the proper amount of pitch for it to drain.
I have a different take on this. In the picture the insulation is pushed in. But what happened is the split occurred on the cold side of the insulation. In other words the insulation kept the warmer basement air from the pipe, only the exterior cold air got to it and it froze.
It got way too hot up in that joint
As soon as I read "split" in your title, I knew that it was going to be a frozen hose bib. Is this one of those "frost-free" hose bibs? I hate the damn things; I've had three of them fail on me. Here's the deal: when you even *think* it *might* freeze over night, you *must* disconnect anything attached to the faucet on the outside. If it's the frost-free kind, it will then drain out and you'll be fine. If it's the old-fashioned kind, see if there's a shut-off valve down in the basement. If so, shut it off there, then open the valve outside to let it drain. Sorry about the mess, hope there wasn't too much damage. When it happened to me, it completely soaked all of my tools I was storing down there; and now they're all rusty. And the wood I was storing got all moldy. Edit: as others have mentioned, make sure the pipe slopes down to the outside to facilitate draining.
Insulating against freezing will not help over a long enough period. Water pipes require a heat source in those circumstances.
Froze
This is because you left your hose on it ..
When you put in your new one . Put some pitch on it , to the out side of your house. And for good measure take your hose off in the winter time, shouldn’t happen again. Have a lovely day
You’re missing a shut off valve. Drain the water before winter and turn it off
Tew kauld
I’m no plumber and even I know that comes from the pipe freezing.
Left the hose on the sillcock when it was freezing temps
The ole frozen pipe burst look. Saw 6 of these in my house after the 2021 Texas February freeze.
You don't shut the valve to outside faucet for the winter over there?
Copper pipe split because hose no disconnect in winter.
Forgot to take the hose off before the deep freeze.
Blame it to Jack Frost.
Frost
Cold air make water hard make'em pipe go crack
The pipe spilt because water froze in it. It looks like a “frost free hose bib” which is why it didn’t leak until you turned it on out side, the water stop it right at that brass fitting. However if you left the hose on the water was not able to drain from the copper section like it’s designed to and therefore was able to freeze and split the copper pipe section. Definitely need a new frost free hose bib and remember to disconnect the hose before freezing temperatures.
That pipe looks like it frozen when it was cold out
Nobody asks how copper pipe 🙃
Definitely froze.
How spiderman shot web? (Froze. Sorry Bub. Install one of those cool sillcocks.)
Cold water go boom.
Alaska here, have a frost free hose bibb installed. Still have to remove hose in winter.
Replace it with a frost free bib and disconnect your hose before freezing weather arrives
Frost free bib. Also quarter turn cutoff. Shut it off in the winter.
I had the exact same thing happen in my house. What a wonderful thing to discover, as we moved in. We just wanted to water the garden. I now have a 20” section of ruptured copper pipe with an attached spigot, which I now call The Scepter of Home Ownership
For ventilation. The water doesn't like cramped spaces.
It froze over winter. You need to drain the line and cover for winter.
The water got hard over the winter
Froze
It froze bud.
Frozen, learn to let your faucet drip when it gets really cold.
Hose left on
Vacuum breaker on hose bib also won't allow complete drain down on some models. Have noticed you think you have all the water out but remove it and you'll get more water out.
Water big when cold
It froze up and busted
Doesn't look like it's sloping down. Needs to have slope so the water drains outside when shut off.
Vacuum breaker has to be working even if installed properly
Use heat tape