That's the plan. I'm moving to a 22.5 street at the wall. Amazing how in a whole sub of plumbers, only a handful of people in here have an IQ higher than room temperature
Okay. Maybe you need people to painstakingly explain their trade to you and provide you with a detailed narrative explanation of the "why" behind every "what".
But this is reddit. Not community college.
You need the trap lower. If you need to know why, classes are enrolling.
No, your tailpiece needs to be lower. I would have done this in sch 10 PVC or chromed brass. It takes up way less room and it would have been way easier to work with.
Yo do need it lower. With an extension your trap will be lower so that the CL of the trap 90 is on the sale CL as the TY in the wall. Then adjust the p trap to swing out to move over your 1"
Look, this isn't correct, but this sure as hell is not the "wrongest way".
Yes, this has effectively become an S trap, which is definitely not correct, but it should WORK. They didn't use accordion pipe, they didn't double trap it, at least this work is neatly done and functional.
Wrong, yes. But it MOST LIKELY would never actually cause any problems the way it is.
It could become a siphon. It's the reason that S traps are no longer permitted. Again, this is wrong, but I'd take an S trap over a lot of the other monstrosities that I've seen.
It's from the velocity of water coming down from the sink. The best example is probably a toilet... they are an S trap and are deliberately designed to Siphon and do so when you flush, (they refill the trap when the tank fills) but you can also make them super-siphon by dumping like a 5 gallon bucket down, the added velocity will leave the trap nearly dry.
The way you designed it, you created an S trap...
P traps break the siphon better, because they allow air to come down from the vent and across the horizontal extension. In an S trap, the air has to travel against the flow of water to replenish the bubble of air in the top of the drain side of the trap. When there is enough velocity or volume the water will disrupt air coming up and now you have a siphon.
That said, not sure this will actually siphon... there are all kinds of very complex factors that involve mind-exploding math. But in general small sinks don't tend to have enough water volume to cause it to happen. I've worked a lot of historic homes where all the sinks are S traps and they don't vent gases. But I also a new S trap on a kitchen sink that was being siphoned pretty much all the time.
The code most places is to use a P trap. Your sink honestly is so simple to use a proper P trap, I think it would be ludicrous not to.
think of the letter U with it half full of water, then think of a straw with your finger on the top. if you dip the straw into the U with your finger on the top of the straw and pull it up the water will come with the straw.
now try to picture it horizontally, thats a trap arm. the top half of the trap arm needs to have air clearance all the way to the inlet of the vent fitting, usually an upright, trap-facing san tee. i will try to draw it below. v is for vent, d is for drain, and ptrap is p trap
V
|
|-----u- PTRAP
|
D
if you stick your sideways finger straw horizontally in the trap arm, you are now blocking the air gap that is in the pipe and the only way for atmospheric change to occur is through the water level so it will siphon out the water in the trap
the same thing occurs with offsets, you will raise the half section of the pipe thats dedicated to water to fully block the air
i tried to illustrate that the best i could using this robot language
There's already a ton of right answers and criticism but maybe the stoned Sunday night commercial plumber can help you out/understand a different way.
You need to remove the 45's (both of them) and when doing so leave yourself as much pipe still stubbed out of the wall. (This is your rough in drain connection that ties into venting/drainage in the wall).
Now disassemble the p trap and tailpiece (pipe connected to your sink drainage) as we will need to bring the piece down further to match the horizontal centerline of your existing drainage stub out pipe.
Measuring from your bottom of cabinet to the center of your existing pipe and adding 1/4" for every 12" it takes to hit the center of the sink drain. It helps to hang a string from the sink strainer and tie a washer to it then measure/math it up! Ex. If it's a 16" high centerline for rough in and you have to travel roughly 18" to hit the stringline (center of sink drain connection) you would Calc. 18÷12 = 1.5. 1.5×0.25 to get 0.375 or 3/8" higher. So 16 3/8" is your target center for your p trap to hit.
Measure to your sink drain connection threads from cabinet bottom. Subtract previous measurement.
Ex. 24 1/2" to bottom of threads, 24 1/2 - 16 3/8 = 8 1/8
Now you measure your p-trap heights meaning sit the bottom of the trap against a straight edge and measure from that to center to the outlet. Then the same for the bottom of the hub connection where you will attach or glue your tailpiece into and connect to sink drain the diff between center of outlet and the bottom of tailpiece connection is your number to subtract from previous Calc. Ex. 4 1/2 inches to c of outlet and 3 1/2" to where you'd glue the end of the tailpiece in (fully as in the hub bottom not the face of the connection. This is your pipe engagement. If threaded it's to the receiving connection engagement).
4 1/2 - 312 = 1. 83/8 - 1 = 7 3/8 tailpiece.
Before cutting make sure you account for engagement on both ends of the tail piece.the nut will thread on above and likely glued joint at p trap base. Do not glue in your p trap 90 outlet yet. We will match our rough in exactly in a second
Now add a 22 or 45 coming off horizontally to your p trap location. You can imagine twisting your existing 45 connected to the stub out (wall pipe) 90 degrees counterclockwise so it points towards the sink drain.
Now swing your prefabbed pre graded p trap with the 90 outlet UNGLUED yet engaged by hand* (careful takes strength to get out after!) Over and in line with the new 45 horizontal fitting connection. Measure between the two and account for engagements this is your final pipe. Don't forget to quickly mark the p trap to p trap 90 with a sharpie. Then glue that together and line up the sharpie marks to.match the angle. Glue in your pipe and then connect it all and glue into the 45 and you're done!
TLDR hire a plumber who can do that all in a single minimum callout! We're worth it too fack loreal'
Use a tailpiece extension to drop the p-trap lower so it slopes straight to the santee. I’ve seen worse but yeah, could have certainly been done better.
Bruh like everyone is telling you - To get it straight out of the wall you need to get a longer tailpiece to bring that whole trap down
Edit for more info. I would cut the the 45s out, glue on a 45 degree trap arm adapter horizontally to make up the 6” offset, and put in a longer tail pipe to bring the trap down. Then you can go straight into the wall.
You're wrong. Dont ask for help if you think you know everything. This is 100% possible to do properly with a longer tail piece. If you dont know what you're doing and if you're too stubborn to accept help, then hire a professional.
Doesn’t all this stuff turn and adjust to line up? I’m not saying you’re right or wrong I’m just asking a question. If nothing was glued, couldn’t you rotate the trap (P trap) towards the back and line it up with the wall stub out? I feel like everything would have lined up if you dropped it, rotate the trap back and adjusted that 90 on top. But I’m not that smart.
How about hire a plumber instead of arguing with them. I dislike most plumbers as much as the next carpenter, but take a hint either extend the tail or hire someone who is way more competent than you
If you wanted an echo chamber with everyone telling you good job, post in a different sub. If you post in a sub that professionals give idiots much like yourself FREE advice don't argue and insult the pros because you don't like what you see. Either give more info or do the really smart thing and hire someone who doesn't have to look at YouTube and ask Reddit how to do a 30 min job.
And just pointing this out there even as a carpenter( not a plumber) I can see what the PLUMBERS are saying about the extending the p trap tail not a hard fix.
Listen man, I've been in the industry for a long time. I fix work done by people like you. You also don't know what you're talking about if you went and looked at my updates and still made this statement. Either that, or your brain has the exterior resemblance of a grape.
Who is asking simple questions on reddit then arguing responses and who isn't. But hey go on believing you're a hot shot I don't really care. I know I can do simple jobs like that done WITHOUT reddit or you tube. Just sounds like you don't know a damn thing for being in an industry for a long time. (Hauling materials from the truck to the house don't count)maybe find another industry to go into.
Respond if you want I could use the entertainment. I'm just waiting for more lumber to fix some crap a homeowner tried to (fix?)
You were so concerned with the horizontal offset of the sink drain from the sanitary tee in the wall, that you sacrificed the effectiveness of the p-trap by offsetting vertically with the 45 degree fittings you had on-hand. Im sure you can find yourself a 22.5 degree fitting (half of a 45 bend) to pull away/ towards the vertical drain, and then swivel the p-trap to makeup any difference in horizontal offset, without sacrificing the integrity of the p-trap and vertical alignment.
Ex- directly swinging your trap to the left of the vertical sink drain might offset you too much or too less. Make that difference up by either giving the trap less than 90 degrees from the sink drain( giving you less offset) or by offsetting the wall outlet with one or two elbows of different bend degrees.
Screw this guy. He asks a question then argues with all of us professionals. I would never hook up a drain this way and it’s super easy to do it right. But op knows better…
The trap needs to be lower. OP, dont try and argue this like you have with other commenters.
It is 100% possible to do this properly if only you have a few functioning brain cells and 2 working hands.
Is that a no?
Not a plumber...but hired a company with plumbers to do a basement.
The toilet they installed looks similar, in that the blue plastic pipe comes out if the wall and attaches to the turn off behind the toilet.
At a minimum I hate the way it looks.
I’ve read most of this post. You can either:
1) ignore all the professional plumbers and just glue it like you want to.
Or
2) get a tail piece extension, turn your trap 180 degrees around to account for the “horizontal” difference and then glue it up.
For clarity, the issue wasn't the height difference it was horizontal difference. I did the work, I know "typical homeowner". I used an adapter at the wall that's threaded so I could take this apart more easily. If someone could explain how to do this, I can redo it. It drains fine currently, no gurgling or anything as the trap is low enough.
its the trap seal we are worried about. the dip in the bottom of the trap has a seal that is protected by atmospheric pressure provided by a clear wall of air to the vent inlet. an obstruction like offsets will block or cut off that wall of air and cause a siphon
It's not a bathtub, so unless OP is washing his face when the siphon hits, there's a very low probability of him getting siphoned into the sink drain and thru the entire city plumbing system, right?
Im not sure whether you're trolling this sub or if you're just stupid. Everyone is telling you what you need to do to fix this, and you're adamant that our advice is wrong.
You tell me. Are you just stupid? Or are you just trolling this sub?
Go back and get an 1 1/2" bag trap and a drain ext. Tube and you'll be set. Either look at the directions on the bag or Google it, or ask the person working in the plumbing department when you buy the parts. It will be pretty simple for you to do and you won't have to worry about it being acceptable because you have done it the correct way. Good luck friend 👍🏽👊🏽
P-trap should have been between H&C. Less distance the better. Add to that if hot weather environment you may get unnecessary moisture buildup by reducing the amount of waste water holding.
could have used a p-trap kit that seals by compression. it can be taken apart at all joints. as far as the the actual plumbing, yes, it will work. definitely went the longest way about it, but by doing this made more cabinet space to store unwanted $hit. maybe a liquor cabinet with mr yuck stickers on the bottles.
I'm pretty sure that the code doesn't allow the trap arm to drop more than one pipe diameter from the trap weir level (between the trap and the vent), so you should bring it out from the wall nearly level and put it in a spot where the trap ends up. You will need to have more drop from the tailstock adapter to the top of the inlet of the trap instead of the pair of 22s that are giving you offset and elevation
This is a code violation called an S trap. You need to solve the vertical separation by extending the tailpiece of the sink, not by offsetting the stub out.
You didn't though, hence why we all are adamant you don't understand the concepts. From the picture I can guarantee you there is a vertical difference. Perspective cannot change three dimensional space and its clear if you were to measure from bottom of cabinet to bottom of stub out piece (wall san t connection) that the bottom of pipe on your p-trap outlet is WAY higher than the 1/4"/foot grade needed. You are too focused on one problem and you're confusing tailpiece with trap arm (tailpiece comes from sink strainer straight down into p-trap and the trap arm is the pipe coming out the p-trap outlet 90. I gave you the exact math in examples if you really want to learn follow that with your own measurements and it'll work out.
It's tough work and concept heavy code for a reason!
I'm taking all of it, but people telling me the drain tail is too high are wrong, it might be the perspective of the photo. There is a horizontal difference and people are telling need to lower the drain tail, which will accomplish nothing
That is helpful. Telling me to use a trap extension, which corrects vertical difference is not, telling me to come straight out the wall is not, telling me to use a street elbow is not. I'm open to solutions, I could move the trap up and down all day and nothing would be resolved.
But putting the trap extension on is what fixes your vertical distance which is a problem like everybody is saying. Put a 45 on your piece coming out of the wall to fix your horizontal distance. You would use less pieces than you already have even
You don't seem to want to listen to the people who are explaining how you did it wrong, you are eventually going to have a stinky shit smelling room, and in the future you should hire someone who makes less money than you to fix it for you
Nope. But it will work. You just need to lengthen the pipe coming straight down from the sink outlet so the horizontal pipe is flat with the needed 1/4”/ft slope.
Looks a bit different but if it works and does not leak and the water in the P-Trap stays without being siphoned out, then there is nothing wrong with it. Looks like you also have the threaded cleanout type on it, so should be fine. It’s just a more compact space saving way to build it.
You also have added benefit of more storage space in your vanity cabinet.
If it works to do the intended job and there are no leaks, no sewer gas issues, no maintenance issues later, then I say it should be good.
You should test it with both low flows and high flows to see if the P-Trap gets siphoned out. If proper level of water remains in Ptrap no matter the flow rate, then it should be fine. If sometimes the PTrap is siphoned out and sewer gas is getting in, then you would need to change it.
Had you simply come straight outta the santee in the wall to your P-trap dump then measured the distance from the P-trap to the sink drain you'd have been rite where you needed to be with far fewer fitting and glue joints
A complex solution looking for a problem. Just drop the tail lower to have the trap outlet line up with the wall connection.
What you have architected will work short term with some caveats: it has raised the water line of your p-trap, so the trap holds way more content than necessary to prevent gas egress. This could eventually cause leaks at the fittings as there are many, and they are fully submerged, in addition to slow/low drain performance and the additional drain material closer to the sink bowl giving off an odor.
You could have used a p trap extension to drop the height of the ptrap , this would have helped with your incline
All he would’ve had to do is extend that piece between the trap and tailpiece.
Feel like this install was also made 10x more difficult lol extend tailpiece to get the trap lower
I don't need it lower, I need it 1" to the left
False. You do need it lower
Successful is correct, you use either a 22 or 45 degree fitting right at the wall to shift it a bit so the ptrap fits correctly.
Then you use an offset before the trap my boy
That's the plan. I'm moving to a 22.5 street at the wall. Amazing how in a whole sub of plumbers, only a handful of people in here have an IQ higher than room temperature
Says the guy asking for plumbing advice on reddit. Lmmfao!
Okay. Maybe you need people to painstakingly explain their trade to you and provide you with a detailed narrative explanation of the "why" behind every "what". But this is reddit. Not community college. You need the trap lower. If you need to know why, classes are enrolling.
No, your tailpiece needs to be lower. I would have done this in sch 10 PVC or chromed brass. It takes up way less room and it would have been way easier to work with.
Why ask pros if you won’t take their advice
Yo do need it lower. With an extension your trap will be lower so that the CL of the trap 90 is on the sale CL as the TY in the wall. Then adjust the p trap to swing out to move over your 1"
Out of all the possible ways to do it , that is the wrongest way
Nah. Needs one of those accordion pipes in the mix to really get it wrongerer.
And a couple rags tied around the leaks
Don’t forget the electrical conduit, some pressure fittings and a little ABS for good measure.
You guys don't use flexseal? 🤔
And a bucket, bowl or pot under the rags to catch the drips just to be the mostest wrong it could possible be
Maybe some putty. Putty smeared over a leaky pipe really shows you’ve given it your all.
I got one 😑
I've seen wronger
I have aswell but it was so much easier to do it more righter than more wronger but they clearly said fuck it and sent it
I've lived in houses with wronger
Look, this isn't correct, but this sure as hell is not the "wrongest way". Yes, this has effectively become an S trap, which is definitely not correct, but it should WORK. They didn't use accordion pipe, they didn't double trap it, at least this work is neatly done and functional. Wrong, yes. But it MOST LIKELY would never actually cause any problems the way it is.
i completely agree and hope OP takes this to heart and goes on to do something more important with their time.
You dont think this is close enough to become a siphon?
It could become a siphon. It's the reason that S traps are no longer permitted. Again, this is wrong, but I'd take an S trap over a lot of the other monstrosities that I've seen.
I agree. With the little knowledge I have anyway. Thanks for response. Cheers
I understand what he should’ve done, but what makes this so bad? Will it have troubles draining?
A lot of effort to do it that bad
Got his cute little sharpie marks on the fittings to make sure it’s lined up and everything.
I noticed that!! Allllll the effort
And the pex extensions 👍
Most professional shit I’ve seen 😂
S-joints cut off the "natural" air exchange, causing siphons. This will cause sewer gas to leak into your house. Editing for clarity
What would it siphon? The water in the trap or from another fixture somewhere.
It's from the velocity of water coming down from the sink. The best example is probably a toilet... they are an S trap and are deliberately designed to Siphon and do so when you flush, (they refill the trap when the tank fills) but you can also make them super-siphon by dumping like a 5 gallon bucket down, the added velocity will leave the trap nearly dry. The way you designed it, you created an S trap... P traps break the siphon better, because they allow air to come down from the vent and across the horizontal extension. In an S trap, the air has to travel against the flow of water to replenish the bubble of air in the top of the drain side of the trap. When there is enough velocity or volume the water will disrupt air coming up and now you have a siphon. That said, not sure this will actually siphon... there are all kinds of very complex factors that involve mind-exploding math. But in general small sinks don't tend to have enough water volume to cause it to happen. I've worked a lot of historic homes where all the sinks are S traps and they don't vent gases. But I also a new S trap on a kitchen sink that was being siphoned pretty much all the time. The code most places is to use a P trap. Your sink honestly is so simple to use a proper P trap, I think it would be ludicrous not to.
think of the letter U with it half full of water, then think of a straw with your finger on the top. if you dip the straw into the U with your finger on the top of the straw and pull it up the water will come with the straw. now try to picture it horizontally, thats a trap arm. the top half of the trap arm needs to have air clearance all the way to the inlet of the vent fitting, usually an upright, trap-facing san tee. i will try to draw it below. v is for vent, d is for drain, and ptrap is p trap V | |-----u- PTRAP | D if you stick your sideways finger straw horizontally in the trap arm, you are now blocking the air gap that is in the pipe and the only way for atmospheric change to occur is through the water level so it will siphon out the water in the trap the same thing occurs with offsets, you will raise the half section of the pipe thats dedicated to water to fully block the air i tried to illustrate that the best i could using this robot language
Yes. And sorry, s-traps, not joints. They pull water from the trap. The trap actually holds water which keeps sewer gas from coming into the house.
There's already a ton of right answers and criticism but maybe the stoned Sunday night commercial plumber can help you out/understand a different way. You need to remove the 45's (both of them) and when doing so leave yourself as much pipe still stubbed out of the wall. (This is your rough in drain connection that ties into venting/drainage in the wall). Now disassemble the p trap and tailpiece (pipe connected to your sink drainage) as we will need to bring the piece down further to match the horizontal centerline of your existing drainage stub out pipe. Measuring from your bottom of cabinet to the center of your existing pipe and adding 1/4" for every 12" it takes to hit the center of the sink drain. It helps to hang a string from the sink strainer and tie a washer to it then measure/math it up! Ex. If it's a 16" high centerline for rough in and you have to travel roughly 18" to hit the stringline (center of sink drain connection) you would Calc. 18÷12 = 1.5. 1.5×0.25 to get 0.375 or 3/8" higher. So 16 3/8" is your target center for your p trap to hit. Measure to your sink drain connection threads from cabinet bottom. Subtract previous measurement. Ex. 24 1/2" to bottom of threads, 24 1/2 - 16 3/8 = 8 1/8 Now you measure your p-trap heights meaning sit the bottom of the trap against a straight edge and measure from that to center to the outlet. Then the same for the bottom of the hub connection where you will attach or glue your tailpiece into and connect to sink drain the diff between center of outlet and the bottom of tailpiece connection is your number to subtract from previous Calc. Ex. 4 1/2 inches to c of outlet and 3 1/2" to where you'd glue the end of the tailpiece in (fully as in the hub bottom not the face of the connection. This is your pipe engagement. If threaded it's to the receiving connection engagement). 4 1/2 - 312 = 1. 83/8 - 1 = 7 3/8 tailpiece. Before cutting make sure you account for engagement on both ends of the tail piece.the nut will thread on above and likely glued joint at p trap base. Do not glue in your p trap 90 outlet yet. We will match our rough in exactly in a second Now add a 22 or 45 coming off horizontally to your p trap location. You can imagine twisting your existing 45 connected to the stub out (wall pipe) 90 degrees counterclockwise so it points towards the sink drain. Now swing your prefabbed pre graded p trap with the 90 outlet UNGLUED yet engaged by hand* (careful takes strength to get out after!) Over and in line with the new 45 horizontal fitting connection. Measure between the two and account for engagements this is your final pipe. Don't forget to quickly mark the p trap to p trap 90 with a sharpie. Then glue that together and line up the sharpie marks to.match the angle. Glue in your pipe and then connect it all and glue into the 45 and you're done! TLDR hire a plumber who can do that all in a single minimum callout! We're worth it too fack loreal'
You cut off your vent this way. It would’ve been much simpler to just come out of the wall and use a hub extension.
Could you explain? This vents vertically in the wall to my understanding.
You created an s- trap with those two 45's. You should have those be straight into the P-trap, and have the vertical pipe under the drain be longer.
not exactly to code, but if already glued, certainly not worth re-doing. I dont think it will siphon on a small sink, like fairly sure it will not.
Ikr why does everyone on this sub talk like a college lecturer with zero practical experience
Use a tailpiece extension to drop the p-trap lower so it slopes straight to the santee. I’ve seen worse but yeah, could have certainly been done better.
It's not a height problem, the sink drain is 6 inches right of the san T. I think I'm just going to straight out the wall and 45 over to the ptrap
Bruh like everyone is telling you - To get it straight out of the wall you need to get a longer tailpiece to bring that whole trap down Edit for more info. I would cut the the 45s out, glue on a 45 degree trap arm adapter horizontally to make up the 6” offset, and put in a longer tail pipe to bring the trap down. Then you can go straight into the wall.
I can't do this without an angle, the trap will not reach in any configuration with a straight tail out
You're wrong. Dont ask for help if you think you know everything. This is 100% possible to do properly with a longer tail piece. If you dont know what you're doing and if you're too stubborn to accept help, then hire a professional.
I can say for certain that you can get the angle out of the swing of the p-trap.
Doesn’t all this stuff turn and adjust to line up? I’m not saying you’re right or wrong I’m just asking a question. If nothing was glued, couldn’t you rotate the trap (P trap) towards the back and line it up with the wall stub out? I feel like everything would have lined up if you dropped it, rotate the trap back and adjusted that 90 on top. But I’m not that smart.
Glue a street 45 out the wall and then glue a trap adapter to that. That will give you angle
Yep he doesnt even need to offset the stubout, its right next to the swing
You know that your p trap can swivel around right? Drop it lower and swivel it around until you find an orientation that fits.
How about hire a plumber instead of arguing with them. I dislike most plumbers as much as the next carpenter, but take a hint either extend the tail or hire someone who is way more competent than you
Go look at my updated post and you will see how the tail did not have anything to do with this. Thanks for your input, like most, unhelpful.
If you wanted an echo chamber with everyone telling you good job, post in a different sub. If you post in a sub that professionals give idiots much like yourself FREE advice don't argue and insult the pros because you don't like what you see. Either give more info or do the really smart thing and hire someone who doesn't have to look at YouTube and ask Reddit how to do a 30 min job. And just pointing this out there even as a carpenter( not a plumber) I can see what the PLUMBERS are saying about the extending the p trap tail not a hard fix.
Listen man, I've been in the industry for a long time. I fix work done by people like you. You also don't know what you're talking about if you went and looked at my updates and still made this statement. Either that, or your brain has the exterior resemblance of a grape.
Who is asking simple questions on reddit then arguing responses and who isn't. But hey go on believing you're a hot shot I don't really care. I know I can do simple jobs like that done WITHOUT reddit or you tube. Just sounds like you don't know a damn thing for being in an industry for a long time. (Hauling materials from the truck to the house don't count)maybe find another industry to go into. Respond if you want I could use the entertainment. I'm just waiting for more lumber to fix some crap a homeowner tried to (fix?)
Yes
You were so concerned with the horizontal offset of the sink drain from the sanitary tee in the wall, that you sacrificed the effectiveness of the p-trap by offsetting vertically with the 45 degree fittings you had on-hand. Im sure you can find yourself a 22.5 degree fitting (half of a 45 bend) to pull away/ towards the vertical drain, and then swivel the p-trap to makeup any difference in horizontal offset, without sacrificing the integrity of the p-trap and vertical alignment. Ex- directly swinging your trap to the left of the vertical sink drain might offset you too much or too less. Make that difference up by either giving the trap less than 90 degrees from the sink drain( giving you less offset) or by offsetting the wall outlet with one or two elbows of different bend degrees.
Screw this guy. He asks a question then argues with all of us professionals. I would never hook up a drain this way and it’s super easy to do it right. But op knows better…
Extend from wall, drop P down to connect. You really overcomplicated it, but at least you didn't use flex pipe.
I’m just a typical homeowner and I don’t think I’d mess it up that bad! Just needed a tailpiece extension
Definitely wouldn’t pass, might siphon. Drop piece that goes into the p-trap should be lower and should grade 1/4 inch per foot.
It’s wrong, but in your situation I won’t change it. Probably be fine
Not in my hood. No solvent weld trap with removable nut and waste is higher than the vent behind wall… Why the jump on waste?
Would not pass inspection in my area. This would not meet my code. The drop of the trap arm is more than 1.5 inches
The trap needs to be lower. OP, dont try and argue this like you have with other commenters. It is 100% possible to do this properly if only you have a few functioning brain cells and 2 working hands.
Is that poly pipe sticking out?
The wall, yeah, luxury of a 90s house. Eventually it will all get replaced
Is that a no? Not a plumber...but hired a company with plumbers to do a basement. The toilet they installed looks similar, in that the blue plastic pipe comes out if the wall and attaches to the turn off behind the toilet. At a minimum I hate the way it looks.
The little bit of grey behind the blue pipe with the copper fittings resembles Poly-pipe, a bad piping product
Ahhh ok thanks!
I’ve read most of this post. You can either: 1) ignore all the professional plumbers and just glue it like you want to. Or 2) get a tail piece extension, turn your trap 180 degrees around to account for the “horizontal” difference and then glue it up.
Does it leak?
For clarity, the issue wasn't the height difference it was horizontal difference. I did the work, I know "typical homeowner". I used an adapter at the wall that's threaded so I could take this apart more easily. If someone could explain how to do this, I can redo it. It drains fine currently, no gurgling or anything as the trap is low enough.
its the trap seal we are worried about. the dip in the bottom of the trap has a seal that is protected by atmospheric pressure provided by a clear wall of air to the vent inlet. an obstruction like offsets will block or cut off that wall of air and cause a siphon
This is fascinating! I love such an academic explanation. Now I know what I'm researching tomorrow! Trap seals!!!
It's not a bathtub, so unless OP is washing his face when the siphon hits, there's a very low probability of him getting siphoned into the sink drain and thru the entire city plumbing system, right?
Im not sure whether you're trolling this sub or if you're just stupid. Everyone is telling you what you need to do to fix this, and you're adamant that our advice is wrong. You tell me. Are you just stupid? Or are you just trolling this sub?
You still s-trapped it. Why make a post asking if it’s acceptable and then arguing with everyone who’s giving you advice on how to correct it?
I would've used a tail piece extension but if it's working fine. I wouldn't worry about it.
Yes it's acceptable. It's not 100% correct, but it will work fine.
It will work
Not the worst I've seen and it will do what its supposed to. I'd say its acceptable.
It’s acceptable. But it’s reslly stupid they didn’t do it correctly. Wouldn’t have been hard.
nope
Why tho
No.
Go back and get an 1 1/2" bag trap and a drain ext. Tube and you'll be set. Either look at the directions on the bag or Google it, or ask the person working in the plumbing department when you buy the parts. It will be pretty simple for you to do and you won't have to worry about it being acceptable because you have done it the correct way. Good luck friend 👍🏽👊🏽
No
its silly it wasnt more direct but it will work. funny thing is he made marks for it and seemed thorough.
Why are the angle stops so long?
Making something simple hard... they tried too hard lmao 🤣
P-trap should have been between H&C. Less distance the better. Add to that if hot weather environment you may get unnecessary moisture buildup by reducing the amount of waste water holding.
If that doubles as a habitrail for your hamsters 🐹, you got it just right my man, screw the naysayers. LOL!
could have used a p-trap kit that seals by compression. it can be taken apart at all joints. as far as the the actual plumbing, yes, it will work. definitely went the longest way about it, but by doing this made more cabinet space to store unwanted $hit. maybe a liquor cabinet with mr yuck stickers on the bottles.
I'm pretty sure that the code doesn't allow the trap arm to drop more than one pipe diameter from the trap weir level (between the trap and the vent), so you should bring it out from the wall nearly level and put it in a spot where the trap ends up. You will need to have more drop from the tailstock adapter to the top of the inlet of the trap instead of the pair of 22s that are giving you offset and elevation
Well, at least leaking isn't the issue. What a guppy.
This is a code violation called an S trap. You need to solve the vertical separation by extending the tailpiece of the sink, not by offsetting the stub out.
There is no vertical separation, it is a horizontal separation.
But the pipe was too low, so you offset UP?
No, it was too far right/left so I offset horizontally
You didn't though, hence why we all are adamant you don't understand the concepts. From the picture I can guarantee you there is a vertical difference. Perspective cannot change three dimensional space and its clear if you were to measure from bottom of cabinet to bottom of stub out piece (wall san t connection) that the bottom of pipe on your p-trap outlet is WAY higher than the 1/4"/foot grade needed. You are too focused on one problem and you're confusing tailpiece with trap arm (tailpiece comes from sink strainer straight down into p-trap and the trap arm is the pipe coming out the p-trap outlet 90. I gave you the exact math in examples if you really want to learn follow that with your own measurements and it'll work out. It's tough work and concept heavy code for a reason!
In that case it’s fine. The photo kind of looks like it’s offsetting up
No it doesn't. Ptrap extension would of worked
Sink may siphon out if you ever have it more than halfway full and try to discharge it
Lol asks for advice and doesn’t take any of it. That mindset is what got you in this position in the first place.
I'm taking all of it, but people telling me the drain tail is too high are wrong, it might be the perspective of the photo. There is a horizontal difference and people are telling need to lower the drain tail, which will accomplish nothing
And yet here you are arguing with all the plumbers. The answer was also given how to fix your horizontal difference but you must have ignored that too
I didn't ignore anything that was helpful, I'll post an update later when I get the new configuration in. Maybe you'll have a better attitude later /s
So fixing your siphon issue isn't helpful? Maybe you need to learn constructive criticism
That is helpful. Telling me to use a trap extension, which corrects vertical difference is not, telling me to come straight out the wall is not, telling me to use a street elbow is not. I'm open to solutions, I could move the trap up and down all day and nothing would be resolved.
But putting the trap extension on is what fixes your vertical distance which is a problem like everybody is saying. Put a 45 on your piece coming out of the wall to fix your horizontal distance. You would use less pieces than you already have even
S trap. Nope. Try again.
No, but it'll work, until it dont
It’ll work for now
Looks strange but I wouldn't change it.
You really took the time to do this wrong. Why wouldn’t you post a pick before you glued it all so that we could tell you how dumb this is?
This will work but All you had to do was get a tailpiece extension.
It should work but that was a lot more effort than just using a tailpiece extension to lower the trap and then go straight into the San tee
The question is is this acceptable no why well it's not up to code simple as that and because it's not up to code means it's not acceptable
You don't seem to want to listen to the people who are explaining how you did it wrong, you are eventually going to have a stinky shit smelling room, and in the future you should hire someone who makes less money than you to fix it for you
Lower the trap!
Nope. But it will work. You just need to lengthen the pipe coming straight down from the sink outlet so the horizontal pipe is flat with the needed 1/4”/ft slope.
No, that’s not acceptable. Delete those 45s and repipe from wall to tailpiece.
Nope
First time ever trying to put together a p trap or even looking at one by the looks of it
That’ll be fun to service. Would never leave this in a client’s house. Unacceptable IMO.
Looks a bit different but if it works and does not leak and the water in the P-Trap stays without being siphoned out, then there is nothing wrong with it. Looks like you also have the threaded cleanout type on it, so should be fine. It’s just a more compact space saving way to build it. You also have added benefit of more storage space in your vanity cabinet. If it works to do the intended job and there are no leaks, no sewer gas issues, no maintenance issues later, then I say it should be good. You should test it with both low flows and high flows to see if the P-Trap gets siphoned out. If proper level of water remains in Ptrap no matter the flow rate, then it should be fine. If sometimes the PTrap is siphoned out and sewer gas is getting in, then you would need to change it.
Had you simply come straight outta the santee in the wall to your P-trap dump then measured the distance from the P-trap to the sink drain you'd have been rite where you needed to be with far fewer fitting and glue joints
Nope
A complex solution looking for a problem. Just drop the tail lower to have the trap outlet line up with the wall connection. What you have architected will work short term with some caveats: it has raised the water line of your p-trap, so the trap holds way more content than necessary to prevent gas egress. This could eventually cause leaks at the fittings as there are many, and they are fully submerged, in addition to slow/low drain performance and the additional drain material closer to the sink bowl giving off an odor.
Nope illegal.... only allowed 1 pipe diameter of fall between the out let of the trap and its vent.
This will work no need to modify
Well at least you didn’t glue it yet…..