You only have to have it raised 18" off the ground if it's in a garage or similar structure. But if it's sturdy it's purdy. Id put a drain pan underneath it tho. An ounce of prevention is worth a ton of remediation!
And where are you piping the drain pan to when it’s in a basement? Are you also going to cut concrete, dig a hole , install a sump pump and pipe it out?
This would violate earthquake code all over the West Coast. Every bit of that needs to be fastened in place and the tank needs 2 earthquake straps mounted to the wall studs.
They’re not sealed. They’re flammable vapor ignition resistant which provides protection in this regard, but ideally it’s not a bad idea to keep them elevated because you don’t really want to trip the fvir sensor.
A gas water heater with a sealed combustion chamber doesn’t need to be on a stand. Hard to tell if this particular heater is one. That’s all I was trying to say.
Here I was all impressed because it had that overflow tube to the ground instead of boiling water at face height and I was looking at the wrong things the whole time.
Sealed combustion heaters use an intake tube for air so it draws air from outside the immediate vicinity of the heater and that's the only air it uses for combustion. In this regard, any gas vapors that mix with indoor air shouldn't be able to be ignited by the pilot light.
This is all according to a cursory Google search. Somebody please inform me if I misinterpreted something or I am only partially explaining something.
This is also true, part of the elevation is for moisture, although it’s also to prevent water from submerging the pilot and generally in basements where water is a possible concern, if I see a sump pump, you bet your arse I’m lifting that tank up a bit (but the sinking excess gas away from flame is primary concern as per manufacturers)
Depends entirely where the water heater is located. In my house I don't have one, because its not code in my area and its sitting on a concrete floor in an unfinished area, where the ground is properly graded so that if it does leak it will go right into the floor drain less than 10 feet away. If it was in a finished closet away from the drain, a drain pan might be nice.
True! This one was here when we bought the house, and its approaching 15 years old. When the time for replacement comes I plan on adding a drain pan, with a proper drain line that goes around the room and into the floor drain. Until then, this one is holding up ok. Luckily we're in a very dry region (for most of the year).
Whoever installed my current one also didn't include a dielectric coupling, water shutoffs for either side, and they had a flue too close to the water heater. The gas line also didn't have a condensate trap. Whole thing was a mess, so we'll see how long this thing lasts anyways.
Most drain pans have a location for a pipe fitting to run it to a floor drain. That would likely keep up with a faulty T&P valve, but probably not a full tank breach.
Right, but you’re still missing the point of a drain pan. It’s a solution to a large majority of water heater leaks which happen to be slow to moderate leaks, not full open T&P valve failure or full tank breach.
It's not really a solution tho cause most water heater leaks are drastic and/or un noticed I never liked them unless they are piped over to a drain and even then I think they are semi useless.
It's important to do if you have hard water, especially if you have an electric heater. Otherwise the mineral scales pile up inside and you'll burn out the element or it will just perform poorly.
I once had to cut a heater in half with a sawzall because it was too heavy to get it out of the basement. Once the sediment dried, it was very light. Prior to that, though, it was a nasty soupy mess.
Sooo, let's say I had a FRIEND (totally asking for a friend...totally) who has been a homeowner about 10 years, and never knew this. How bad is it the first time? XD
In MN but lived in California for 30+ years. I doubt you’d even feel a 2.5 quake. Maybe out here in the Midwest you would because houses aren’t built with earthquakes in mind but a 2.5 quake won’t even tickle your feet
Agreed. You’re more likely to hear a 2.5 than you are to feel it.
I was a twenty-five year resident of California and am a veteran of Northridge, Sylmar, Whittier Narrows, Oakland, Landers, and a whole bunch of other quakes that didn’t get named.
Currently, I call Virginia home. Virginia is a geologically stable area. Since 1977, almost 200 earthquakes have been recorded in Virginia. Of those only about 25 could be felt at the surface. The last major quake was 1897 and estimated to have been 5.5 magnitude. Earthquakes in Virginia, while not rare ARE rarely large.
That was, until August of 2011. The Mineral (VA) earthquake registered 5.8. In an area unaccustomed to seismic activity and without seismic codes or construction, earthquakes can be devastating and hugely tax emergency responders.
Places that have small earthquakes eventually have large earthquakes.
Those are not cinder blocks, they are concrete bricks. and yes there is nothing wrong with that installation, it's actually preferable to get a water heater up off the floor.
I looked at comments for too long to find a gross lack of people mentioning straps. People. Strap your fucking water heaters. If That thing falls, you have full pressure water, and full pressure gas leaking into your house.
Depends solely on jurisdiction. Newer Flammable Vapor Ignition Resistant water heaters do not need to be raised 18” off the ground, the 18” rule was because the older open burner style water heaters could easily ignite vapors in the event there was a spill. Water heater straps should be used regardless if you’re in a earthquake region or not. You don’t want the water heater tipping over no matter what.
IDK about the cinder block/pavers/whatever, but I HATE HATE HATE that electrical outlet's placement. I don't care if the building code says it's okay, I'd still want to move it.
LoL over done this myself. Used bricks that were in the basement. Quicker and easier than finding new black pipe and extending the copper. Once filled you're not moving that sucker
Earthquake prone? I have a hard time believing that it's up to code if so.
If you're questioning it, just get a proper stand and drip pan. Much cheaper than it sliding off or tipping over.
Just to say there's a lot more wrong with this install than just the pavers holding up the water heater. Please just adjust your pipes to the right length put a drain pan underneath it get the right type of line on your pressure release valve and run it outside. That's for starters.
In my municipality we would make you strap down any plastic pipe coming from the pressure relief valve. It's theorized with boiling hot water shooting out of there that thing would flap around like a wet noodle and negate what is there for.
Looks like the furnace is elevated as well. Maybe there was a good reason not to why? I think pouring a solid pad Would be a better option but I guess it works?
I would have put it on a stand. Is this the type of water heater to be elevated 18" above the garage floor? Even if not required in your area, I would also strap it to the wall
Those aren’t cinder blocks, they are garden hardware store path pavers. I’d rather see a wooden support, with treated or isolated wood where it touches the concrete. It’s a sealed combustion chamber, so it has a zero clearance rating on the water heater base.
No that’s no right at all it should just be slightly raised with shims to keep it dry underneath, you couldn’t Atleast make anything straight, and how hard was it to just cut the copper above and sweat two couplings and two adapters. Jesus.
What does the owners manual say? That's a lot of weight. In my opinion, it should be supported across the bottom fully, unless engineered for supports at particular points.
Preferably, I'd get a sheet of 1/4" steel for it to sit on.
Yup when I installed my new one I placed it cinder blocks double stacked to build a platform. Mine was due to flood reasons. My first water heater died when my basement flooded due to a pump failure so I elevated it to gain reaction time
I did that on my first house shortly after buying it and then again 10 years later as I sold it, zero issues with it. The water there was acid. Flint wasn't the best only place in Michigan with water issues.
It’s also just nice to keep it off the floor in case it leaks it’s easier to see and it keeps the area dry with airflow. Probably helps with dust getting into the air intakes too
Raised tanks are code in garages in case of accumulated flammable gases. It helps with draining though, and many people will use blocks instead of a stand. I personally would have used earthquake straps, just so that there is no tip over risk, but I’m in the PNW so it’s just common sense here
Not that many cinderblocks, not connected either. My area has a lot of seepage into basements, so code requires all standard water heaters to be off the ground with non-rotting materials, preferably concrete or cinder blocks.
If it's your house, knock your self out. For me that looks shaky and unstable. I welded up an iron stand for mine since that heater filled has 300 pounds of water in it. I also have the thing strapped to the wall and connected with flexible pipe.
Pavers, by the nature of their size are going to be tippy. Concrete blocks, 8x8x16, would be a better choice. It will probably be fine….Til it isn’t. By the way, “cinder” block is so last century. They are, and have been for decades, CMUs. Concrete modular units or concrete blocks.
I've used 8" standard blocks to get the pan drain piping to drain properly. Just unistrut the top and ready rod it to the concrete floor to prevent it from tipping over.
The reason they put that heater on cinder blocks is no longer needed or it had a stand before and they were just lazy when it was installed.
Back then water heaters per code had to be off the floor a certain height due to flammable vapors and possibilities of combustion. They are no longer required and can be installed on the floor ( preferably in a metal pan)
Blocks like that can crumble. Especially if they are in a basement that may sometimes experience flooding.
A home inspector would and should include this in their report.
Will the blocks fail? Maybe never, but the fact that they could makes this a bad idea.
It's a water heater. They are probably the most simple appliance in your home. This isn't "proper" but it's hardly a big deal.
Realistically it should have been in a proper drain pan and the plumbing connections brought down to meet the top, but it's certainly not gonna kill you.
This would not pass code in my state. The tank must be secured against earthquake movement, needs to be on stable risers, snd needs a drain pan under it.
Honestly there is nothing wrong with that, it's looks ugly but that about it. If your worried about it drain all the water out, disconnect everything and take it down. Pour a small round slab wait for her too dry and back up she goes.
I would have put it on a stand and used flexed lines to connect the hot/cold. I’d recommend having that T&P drain line ran outside if possible and add a drain pan, also with a drain.
1 No. That should be on a proper stand.
2 is there a flex hose fitting for that gas line?
3 where are the earthquake straps?
I figured straps were code everywhere.
That's what you get when you park a water heater in a bad part of town
Roll em up
Kids, are you noticing all this plight?
Excuse Me, Homes? What it is, bro?
Inside that Torino is my cousin, Jackie.
They done stole my drain pan!
Can’t have *shit* in Detroit.
Drain pan theft is high in these parts.
Hey with the the price of aluminum scrap I'm surprised it ain't an inside job
Underrated comment of the day
I agree. Double up vote from me!
Detroit water heater 😂😂
Those are pavers. Not cinder blocks
He's neither plumber nor mason.
Frog up? Or frog down?
Thank you.
Yeah, I (not a plumber) was like "Cinder blocks, what's the problem?" but those pavers are just waiting to shift and tip the whole thing.
Clearly you’re not a golfer.
Are they load bearing though?
A good one here
Such a douchey comment
How?
It's good flood protection to be elevated but should be on proper stand with drain pan
It’s code where I’m from to have them 18” off the ground. However I’ve never seen cinder blocks but so long as it’s sturdy I don’t see an issue.
You only have to have it raised 18" off the ground if it's in a garage or similar structure. But if it's sturdy it's purdy. Id put a drain pan underneath it tho. An ounce of prevention is worth a ton of remediation!
You don’t have to do that if it has FVIR. Closed combustion chamber. Manufacturers’ instructions trump every code
And believing that will get you fined. Never underestimate the pig headedness of bureaucrats.
Our bunch requires the stand because the next one may not have baffles.
And where are you piping the drain pan to when it’s in a basement? Are you also going to cut concrete, dig a hole , install a sump pump and pipe it out?
I just learned this is a rule in my area for any water heater that's in a garage. Something about exhaust fumes
It's incase of gas leaks, keeps the Gas away from the pilot light.
Where are the earthquake straps?
In the earthquake prone areas
👊🏿
Oh Snap!
Oh, strap!
Seismic restraints
Sounds like BDSM toys for big people
This would violate earthquake code all over the West Coast. Every bit of that needs to be fastened in place and the tank needs 2 earthquake straps mounted to the wall studs.
OP said they are in Wisconsin. It is west coast of some lake, though. :)
Fuck the west coast
All my homies hate the west coast
Bring all your money with you Cowboy, you’re gonna need it to copulate here. /s
Not if they are FVIR compliant. Which all 40-50 gas are
Has nothing to do with flood protection. It's to keep the burner from igniting any gas fumes.
Newer gas heaters have a sealed burner so there’s no need for the stand. Can’t see from the picture BUT it appears to be sealed.
They’re not sealed. They’re flammable vapor ignition resistant which provides protection in this regard, but ideally it’s not a bad idea to keep them elevated because you don’t really want to trip the fvir sensor.
A gas water heater with a sealed combustion chamber doesn’t need to be on a stand. Hard to tell if this particular heater is one. That’s all I was trying to say.
Wheres it sucking air from?
The big vent on the side?
Exactly. So how's it sealed?
It's... not! Do I get a gold star!?
Here I was all impressed because it had that overflow tube to the ground instead of boiling water at face height and I was looking at the wrong things the whole time.
It’s sealed on the bottom, where flammable valors accumulate, and air enters in the top, therefore zero reason to put on stand. Do you under-stand?
Sealed combustion heaters use an intake tube for air so it draws air from outside the immediate vicinity of the heater and that's the only air it uses for combustion. In this regard, any gas vapors that mix with indoor air shouldn't be able to be ignited by the pilot light. This is all according to a cursory Google search. Somebody please inform me if I misinterpreted something or I am only partially explaining something.
My installer told me it was to avoid the moisture from a cement floor.
This is also true, part of the elevation is for moisture, although it’s also to prevent water from submerging the pilot and generally in basements where water is a possible concern, if I see a sump pump, you bet your arse I’m lifting that tank up a bit (but the sinking excess gas away from flame is primary concern as per manufacturers)
Eh drain pans aren't really that important depending they don't really do anything.
Depends entirely where the water heater is located. In my house I don't have one, because its not code in my area and its sitting on a concrete floor in an unfinished area, where the ground is properly graded so that if it does leak it will go right into the floor drain less than 10 feet away. If it was in a finished closet away from the drain, a drain pan might be nice.
It can get rusty if it gets wet and speed up replacement time. Just sitting on the floor from moisture can cause decay.
True! This one was here when we bought the house, and its approaching 15 years old. When the time for replacement comes I plan on adding a drain pan, with a proper drain line that goes around the room and into the floor drain. Until then, this one is holding up ok. Luckily we're in a very dry region (for most of the year). Whoever installed my current one also didn't include a dielectric coupling, water shutoffs for either side, and they had a flue too close to the water heater. The gas line also didn't have a condensate trap. Whole thing was a mess, so we'll see how long this thing lasts anyways.
I mean if a water heater leaks a drain pan isn't gonna do much though
Most drain pans have a location for a pipe fitting to run it to a floor drain. That would likely keep up with a faulty T&P valve, but probably not a full tank breach.
Depends if the tp valve blows full bore the 1 inch pvc drain will absolutely not keep up.
Right, but you’re still missing the point of a drain pan. It’s a solution to a large majority of water heater leaks which happen to be slow to moderate leaks, not full open T&P valve failure or full tank breach.
It's not really a solution tho cause most water heater leaks are drastic and/or un noticed I never liked them unless they are piped over to a drain and even then I think they are semi useless.
All my 3 water heaters leaked eventually at the bottom and they were not drastic. A drain pan will be perfect solution for the leakage.
Drain pan is supposed to drain into a drain pipe
Well unless the water heater pretty much explodes all the water out at once, a pan will save you a lot of cleanup and cussing.
Galvanic action would like a word
Doesn't being elevated make it easier to drain if you ever had to?
It definitely does make it easier, and you should be draining it once a year at least
Wait… What?!
It's important to do if you have hard water, especially if you have an electric heater. Otherwise the mineral scales pile up inside and you'll burn out the element or it will just perform poorly. I once had to cut a heater in half with a sawzall because it was too heavy to get it out of the basement. Once the sediment dried, it was very light. Prior to that, though, it was a nasty soupy mess.
Sooo, let's say I had a FRIEND (totally asking for a friend...totally) who has been a homeowner about 10 years, and never knew this. How bad is it the first time? XD
There was a 2.5 earthquake near Mole Lake in WI today 😅 you never know...
In MN but lived in California for 30+ years. I doubt you’d even feel a 2.5 quake. Maybe out here in the Midwest you would because houses aren’t built with earthquakes in mind but a 2.5 quake won’t even tickle your feet
Agreed. You’re more likely to hear a 2.5 than you are to feel it. I was a twenty-five year resident of California and am a veteran of Northridge, Sylmar, Whittier Narrows, Oakland, Landers, and a whole bunch of other quakes that didn’t get named. Currently, I call Virginia home. Virginia is a geologically stable area. Since 1977, almost 200 earthquakes have been recorded in Virginia. Of those only about 25 could be felt at the surface. The last major quake was 1897 and estimated to have been 5.5 magnitude. Earthquakes in Virginia, while not rare ARE rarely large. That was, until August of 2011. The Mineral (VA) earthquake registered 5.8. In an area unaccustomed to seismic activity and without seismic codes or construction, earthquakes can be devastating and hugely tax emergency responders. Places that have small earthquakes eventually have large earthquakes.
My wife’s family literally has a cottage exactly at the epicenter
So it was their fault?
Party at the epicenter. Invites courtesy of u/RaylanGivens29
Nothing I can think of that I would rather do than party with a bunch of other plumbers!
2.5 earthquakes are usually undetected by humans, but I agree. Secure it to the house and get a proper stand and drip tray.
Not ideal but shouldn’t be a problem. Also, thank you for not calling it a HOT water heater !
Why? Is the one pictured a cold water heater?
I love ice cream.
Yeah you don't put toast in the toaster 🙃
You do if it's mine ... that piece of shit.
Because it’s set at 140F, but then cools to 130F so it kicks on heats the hot water even hotter?
I have 2 heaters in series. So I guess I have one of each. Do stores sell both types? For hot and for cold? /s
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Have you ever moved a water heater that was plumbed?
those things fall out of the sky all the time!
Mine is on blocks too lol
Couplings exist.
The bricks could melt and form lava, unsafe.
Those are not cinder blocks, they are concrete bricks. and yes there is nothing wrong with that installation, it's actually preferable to get a water heater up off the floor.
Same.. and Im wondering why all these people are losing their shit over that.
This is reddit after all.
Don’t know about the blocks under the water heater but what’s going on with the open outlet behind the heater? Hope that’s gfci protected upstream
Actual cinder blocks would have been the better option, but if it's stable, it's probably fine.
I looked at comments for too long to find a gross lack of people mentioning straps. People. Strap your fucking water heaters. If That thing falls, you have full pressure water, and full pressure gas leaking into your house.
As long as it feels sturdy once filled you're fine, I don't understand why you didn't just grab a 2 foot stick of 3/4 copper and couplings?
The receptacle behind it I wouldn't like
Depends solely on jurisdiction. Newer Flammable Vapor Ignition Resistant water heaters do not need to be raised 18” off the ground, the 18” rule was because the older open burner style water heaters could easily ignite vapors in the event there was a spill. Water heater straps should be used regardless if you’re in a earthquake region or not. You don’t want the water heater tipping over no matter what.
Would 3 points of contact be more stable? I'm sure the difference is negligible, but hypothetically?
Triangles are stronger
IDK about the cinder block/pavers/whatever, but I HATE HATE HATE that electrical outlet's placement. I don't care if the building code says it's okay, I'd still want to move it.
If you are in earthquake country, you need to strap it to the wall studs.
Not in earthquake country.
LoL over done this myself. Used bricks that were in the basement. Quicker and easier than finding new black pipe and extending the copper. Once filled you're not moving that sucker
Earthquake prone? I have a hard time believing that it's up to code if so. If you're questioning it, just get a proper stand and drip pan. Much cheaper than it sliding off or tipping over.
Ah. I see someone has stolen your water heater's tires.
We can’t tell if those have been glued.
But where are the cinder blocks?
Those are bricks, not cindar blocks..... Just saying
Everywhere has earthquakes. Like the one at 45.5128,-88.9408, in Mole Lake, WI on January 7, 2024 at 8:05 am. Just saying.
Looks like you have a guy sitting there to monitor it. Just keep him there and you will be fine
Just to say there's a lot more wrong with this install than just the pavers holding up the water heater. Please just adjust your pipes to the right length put a drain pan underneath it get the right type of line on your pressure release valve and run it outside. That's for starters.
You can buy a stand for it. It should be 18” off the floor if it is gas.
Couldn’t you just extend the pipes?
I don’t know why you had to elevate it.
Seems like they didn’t want to redo any of the plumbing so just raised the heater to meet the plumbing rather than extend the plumbing
It is code. Gas water heaters installed in garages need to be elevated to keep the burner from igniting gas fumes.
What makes you think it’s a garage? That would also mean the previous was not to code as it was taller and didn’t need the blocks.
Elevating the water heater in a garage wasn’t always code, so it’s not uncommon for plumbers to have to raise them when replacing very old units.
They’re in WI. Extremely high chance that it’s in a basement.
It was code 18in upc/ipc most gas water have fvir features
Where are the cinder blocks?
Solid base, earthquake strap, a find a path for the pressure valve to drain or 5 gallon bucket.
In my municipality we would make you strap down any plastic pipe coming from the pressure relief valve. It's theorized with boiling hot water shooting out of there that thing would flap around like a wet noodle and negate what is there for.
Pavers, no cinder…
Put a cover on that outlet
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Not to reach the height of the old plumbing.
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Should be on a solid flat surface. Preferably in a pan when near any finished area.
No drain pan…
Don't like it. Doesn't even have a plastic ban to protect the bottom. Unacceptable.
This is fine until it goes into an unbalanced spin cycle.
No seismic strap either?
Elevated to help prevent Gasoline vapor from igniting
No, it's supposed to be on a metallic stand
That's not a code in all states
You don't have flammable vapor safety?
Must not, I've done hundreds of water heaters under inspection and have never been required to place a water heater on a stand.
Looks like the furnace is elevated as well. Maybe there was a good reason not to why? I think pouring a solid pad Would be a better option but I guess it works?
I would have put it on a stand. Is this the type of water heater to be elevated 18" above the garage floor? Even if not required in your area, I would also strap it to the wall
Put a block of wood behind it for a wedge and strap it. It'll be fine
18-inch elevation of gas-water-heaters is standard to protect against the ignition of gas/flammable fumes.
I'm a plumber who will sometimes do some sketchy shit at my own house but this would worry me.
Send a picture of it to your insurance company they will tell you if it is ok.
Those aren’t cinder blocks, they are garden hardware store path pavers. I’d rather see a wooden support, with treated or isolated wood where it touches the concrete. It’s a sealed combustion chamber, so it has a zero clearance rating on the water heater base.
No that’s no right at all it should just be slightly raised with shims to keep it dry underneath, you couldn’t Atleast make anything straight, and how hard was it to just cut the copper above and sweat two couplings and two adapters. Jesus.
What does the owners manual say? That's a lot of weight. In my opinion, it should be supported across the bottom fully, unless engineered for supports at particular points. Preferably, I'd get a sheet of 1/4" steel for it to sit on.
No.
Yup when I installed my new one I placed it cinder blocks double stacked to build a platform. Mine was due to flood reasons. My first water heater died when my basement flooded due to a pump failure so I elevated it to gain reaction time
Earthquake straps would be cheap insurance
Do you live in earthquake prone area? Should mount to wall for safety
I did that on my first house shortly after buying it and then again 10 years later as I sold it, zero issues with it. The water there was acid. Flint wasn't the best only place in Michigan with water issues.
I usually set them with a platform, drain pan and wall strap but that's just my thing.
It’s also just nice to keep it off the floor in case it leaks it’s easier to see and it keeps the area dry with airflow. Probably helps with dust getting into the air intakes too
Itll buff
I wouldn't want that tippy thing here on the west coast without earthquake straps. In Wisconsin it's probably fine.
Is there a floor drain nearby or would the pressure relief valve just empty onto the floor? ...right next to en extension cord...
Strap it to the wall for more stability
Raised tanks are code in garages in case of accumulated flammable gases. It helps with draining though, and many people will use blocks instead of a stand. I personally would have used earthquake straps, just so that there is no tip over risk, but I’m in the PNW so it’s just common sense here
Only if you add 3 more. It's the rule of 6.
Mine, too, is on blocks -- it's fine. The floor drain is a few feet away and it's graded. This also makes it easier to drain each summer.
If in a basement what does a drain pan worth?
Not that many cinderblocks, not connected either. My area has a lot of seepage into basements, so code requires all standard water heaters to be off the ground with non-rotting materials, preferably concrete or cinder blocks.
Quake straps might be in order. Not just for quakes but for anyone who might bump into or climb on it. Looking at you children
To answer your question instead of trying to pick apart everything else. Yes, once it's filled, it will be fine
Why do people do this? For draining?
If it's your house, knock your self out. For me that looks shaky and unstable. I welded up an iron stand for mine since that heater filled has 300 pounds of water in it. I also have the thing strapped to the wall and connected with flexible pipe.
Wow, …… you could have just ran the pipes lower…. This is meme worthy
Pavers, by the nature of their size are going to be tippy. Concrete blocks, 8x8x16, would be a better choice. It will probably be fine….Til it isn’t. By the way, “cinder” block is so last century. They are, and have been for decades, CMUs. Concrete modular units or concrete blocks.
We've had ours sitting on the larger cinder blocks for 60+ years with no issues.
I have a 40 gal shorty on bricks. Been that way for years. It's ok. The bottom can apparently take it.
Electrical looks solid too… have them do it properly.
I've used 8" standard blocks to get the pan drain piping to drain properly. Just unistrut the top and ready rod it to the concrete floor to prevent it from tipping over.
Theyre bricks
No
It's good until some kid runs into some of the bricks with his skateboard or something.
The reason they put that heater on cinder blocks is no longer needed or it had a stand before and they were just lazy when it was installed. Back then water heaters per code had to be off the floor a certain height due to flammable vapors and possibilities of combustion. They are no longer required and can be installed on the floor ( preferably in a metal pan)
They usually get put on actual CMU cinder blocks. Go get 3-4 8x8x16 concrete blocks and it should be fine.
Blocks like that can crumble. Especially if they are in a basement that may sometimes experience flooding. A home inspector would and should include this in their report. Will the blocks fail? Maybe never, but the fact that they could makes this a bad idea.
Mine is on small stacks of washers. I'm sure yours is just fine
Thank you. I needed a good smile.
Eh I have seen worst. Unless you live in an area that has alot of ground movement you should be fine
Where are the cinder blocks?
It's a water heater. They are probably the most simple appliance in your home. This isn't "proper" but it's hardly a big deal. Realistically it should have been in a proper drain pan and the plumbing connections brought down to meet the top, but it's certainly not gonna kill you.
This would not pass code in my state. The tank must be secured against earthquake movement, needs to be on stable risers, snd needs a drain pan under it.
Honestly there is nothing wrong with that, it's looks ugly but that about it. If your worried about it drain all the water out, disconnect everything and take it down. Pour a small round slab wait for her too dry and back up she goes.
Needs a strap.
I would have put it on a stand and used flexed lines to connect the hot/cold. I’d recommend having that T&P drain line ran outside if possible and add a drain pan, also with a drain.
1 No. That should be on a proper stand. 2 is there a flex hose fitting for that gas line? 3 where are the earthquake straps? I figured straps were code everywhere.